Mac / PC Encoding workflow question

Hello.
I'm completing a Project shot almost entire using HDV 29.97fps 1080i footage from a sony tape based camcorder.
In order to make my life complicated, I decided to upgrade to from CS4 to CS 5.5 in the middle of the project AND switch from PC to Mac.  Surprisingly, the significant glitch that's arisen as a result of this is that you cannot natively encode to WMV files from the Mac version of Premier.
So admittedly, I may be asking the wrong question but here it goes:  The reason I want to encode to WMV is that I'm playing back via an xBox 360.  Whle the xbox will accept h.264 files, there are surprisingly noticeable differences in the in the quality.  Admittedly, this could be entirely due to my inexperience.  However, from reading the the xbox FAQ on codecs here: http://support.microsoft.com/kb/945416 I noticed that the WMV files can be encoded at a significantly higher bit rate than h.264 (15 v 10). 
The "quality" factors I'm referring to are primarily that I notice significant and distracting motion artifacts in my h.264 attempts.  I also THINK that the image is slightly softer.  Incidentally, I attempted encoding for the appltv as well with similarly poor results.
So it occurs to me that there are a few potential solutions that I'd love to get some feedback on:
1)  Finish my projects on the mac, output to some high quality format (Uncompressed AVI?  Blue Ray?), move that output over to the PC and then re-encode in WMV.
2)  Figure out how to encode in h.264...  I feel like I've tried everything I can think of with the available options.
3)  Try a newer media streamer capable of consuming higher bitrate h.264 files?  Not even sure if that's my problem.
Any input is greatly appreciated.
PS.  Not to hijack my own thread but the Mac in question (details below) has really impressed me.  I am editing from the couch from a single drive and am getting pretty close to real-time playback even with up to two color corrected HD streams. 
Macbookpro 17
2.3 ghz
8gig ram
500 gig ssd drive
-Ben

In answer to Question 3 (and partially #2), I've recently begun using a WDTV HD appliance, which is made by Western Digital. Playing back HD files (shot in 1080p with a JVC GY-HD700u or 1080i with a Canon XHA1) that have been encoded in h.264 using the preset for Vimeo HD gives me beautiful results on the WDTV appliance. I've also had beautiful playback experience with those encoded files (again, Vimeo HD preset) from any computer or uploaded to the web on Vimeo or YouTube...
So, check out the WDTV appliance (also plays Netflix and Pandora with a network connection). It's pretty sweet... you can play files from a USB thumb drive, or connect it to your network and stream files directly from any computer on  your network.

Similar Messages

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    thisisironclad wrote:
    Hello all,
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    Here is what I’m working with:
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    thisisironclad wrote:
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    thisisironclad wrote:
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    thisisironclad wrote:
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    It's OK.
    thisisironclad wrote:
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    thisisironclad wrote:
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    thisisironclad wrote:
    Have you stopped using third party plugins for their inefficiency in unreliability and switched to more integrated applications like SpeedGrade?
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    [email protected]
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    ...the Mac I have is the
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    With that in mind, you may have noticed, unless I'm missing something, that there is no way in the Premiere Mixer to assign an audio track only to the LFE channel.  Sure, you can dial up the "Bass Clef" knob to 0.00 db, and send a mono channel's audio to the LFE channel, but there is no place to put the "Puck" that only outputs to LFE.  There is one for the center channel, but without someplace to put it, your 40 Hz dinosaur footprint "Thump" is going to also be assigned to some of the other channels.  Which channels depends on your "Puck" placement.  This is not correct.  Again, unless I'm missing something, Adobe needs to correct this oversight.  We'll get back to this problem with a solution later, but first let's continue with the AC3 issue.
    At this point you should have your wave file.  If you want to apply any global changes to all 6 channels, you can open it in Adobe Soundbooth and trim the beginning or end, and apply effects to the entire file.  You cannot, however, make changes to individual channels.  Audacity will!  We'll get to that later.
    Encode with Audacity: 
    Install the software and go to Edit > Preferences > Libraries, and click on "Download" for the "FFmpeg Library."  This is the library that Audacity will use to create the .AC3 file.  Once installed, the library version should show up next to "FFmpeg Library Version" While the "Audacity Preferences" window is still open, select "Import/Export" and select "Use Custom Mix", this is used to export a 5.1 channel file.  Now you're ready to open your .wave file from Premiere.  Drag and drop it in the Audacity workspace and you should see 6 mono tracks laid out from top to bottom in the following order: L,R,C,LFE,LS,RS.  Audacity will let you edit the individual tracks, unlike Soundbooth, thanks Adobe.  But for now, we'll keep it simple.  Set your "Project Rate" in audacity in the lower-left corner to what you want the AC3 file to be.  For DVD, chose 48000 (Hz).  If you leave it at 44100 (Hz) Encore won't import it. 
    Your almost done.  Now let's export the file.  Go to Files > Export... > and select "AC3 Files (FFmpeg)" in the "Save as type:" drop-down.  Click the "Options..." button and set the "Bit Rate:" for your file.  For 5.1 AC3 audio, probably 448.  Now enter a file name and click "Save."  This will open the "Advanced Mixing Options" window.  This allows you to re-map the tracks to a different channel order.  It should be correct, and it should show "Output Channels:" set to 6.  Press "OK" and you're done.
    Presto, you have a 5.1 channel AC3 file.  Use that in Encore, or whatever DVD creation program you use, and when you play your DVD you'll have full 5.1 audio coming out your surround sound Amplifier.  That is if you have one.
    Test your file:
    If you want to test your file, you can do a couple of things.  Since Soundbooth and Adobe  Bridge won't even open AC3 files, and Encore will open but only play the Left and Right channels in the preview, you'll have to either import the file into Premiere, or use another media player.
    If you got Premiere to play your surround properly, then you can drag and drop the file into the "Project" panel and preview it from there. You will hear all 6 channels in the correct speakers, but I did notice that the quality is not very good.  Maybe Premiere doesn't decode AC3 all that well.  I heard some crackle that isn't in the file.  How do I know it isn't just a bad encoding job by Audacity?  Because I played the file with the VLC media player, and Cyberlink PowerDVD on the same computer, and also on a DVD in my home theater system with no artifacts.  Maybe Premiere doesn't decode AC3 files well. 
    The VLC player, will play almost any file in the known universe, and at least on my computer, it automatically played the AC3 surround file, created by Audacity, with all the channels mapped correctly.  That's right, full surround out my speakers with only default settings.  It's a great player.  Get it for free here: http://www.videolan.org/
    Test with Encore:
    So far so good. Now open Encore, drop the AC3 file in an empty project, throw it on a Timeline and build the project without Video,  It will autoplay without a menu this way. If you set the End-Action to the same AC3 file it will repeat continuously.  Either burn this to DVD-RW and test it in your DVD player, or better yet, Build the project to a DVD Image instead, and mount it in a virtual DVD   Drive with a program like "Virtual CloneDrive."
    If you don't know what that is, or how to do it, it is very simple.  Go to: http://www.slysoft.com/en/ and download "Virtual Clonedrive."  It is free.  It tricks your operating system into thinking you have another physical DVD drive.  In fact, it can create up to 8 virtual drives.  Now you don't have to waste time burning, and erasing DVD's every time you make a change to a project.  You can build your project as a DVD Image from Encore, save the .iso file to your Desktop and "mount" it (load it) in Virtual Clonedrive.  You're computer will now think you loaded a DVD into a physical drive, and launch whatever DVD player you have installed.  Mine launches "Cyberlink PowerDVD" which plays the AC3 audio-only DVD in full surround sound on my computer. 
    Building and testing projects this way will save you endless hours.  If you need to make a quick change, just "Unmount" the .iso in Virtual Clonedrive, rebuild your project to the same filename, and "Mount" it again.  Instant testing!
    Now, as promised, back to that LFE Channel problem with Premiere that I mentioned:
    Audacity will let you modify the individual channels in your interleaved 6-Channel file.  So don't put anything in that channel in your Premiere mixer. Leave the "Bass Clef" knobs at full CCW position ( -00 db ).  The bass from the other channels will go to your subwoofer automatically in your Amplifier.
    Now if you have some low frequency effects files, open them in Audacity.  You can open multiple instances of Audacity at the same time by going to "File > New."  Then, copy and paste them into the LFE Track at the correct point.
    Audacity newbie Hint:  Audacity doesn't yet have a "Mix-Paste" function, so to avoid altering the track length as you paste in your clips, do the following: Select the LFE track by clicking on it's info area.  The info area should say something like "Mono, 48000Hz"  Then press "Delete," That will remove everything from the track.  Now copy and paste your clips into the track by clicking once with the "Selection Tool" where you want the clip to start, and selecting "Edit > Paste."  If you need to fine tune the position of the pasted clip, use the "Time Shift Tool" to move it left or right.  If you work from left to right, then you won't push clips over when you paste new ones in.
    There is another way to do this by opening up new tracks, using the "Mix and Render" function, and re-ordering the tracks to maintain the L,R,C,LFE,LS,RS channel order.  But that's for advanced users.
    Where to get thumpy effects?:
    Remember, Audacity will open DVD ".vob" files.  Just remember to get permission from the copyright owner.  HeHe.
    PS If you can't get your surround sound to work with Premiere on your computer, see my other tutorial.

    After further research, there is a better AC3 encoder out there than the FFMPEG that Audacity uses.  It is a more sophisticated implementation of the format.  Unlike FFMPEG, it uses floating point numbers instead of integers internally, among other things.  It is also updated periodically.  Although the pace is glacial.
    You can read about it here: http://aften.sourceforge.net/
    The easiest way to use it is with a graphical front-end like "wavtoac3encoder" found here: http://code.google.com/p/wavtoac3encoder/
    You don't need to change anything from the default settings.
    Just follow my tutorial above and instead of using Audacity to create the AC3 file after you are done editing, output the multi-track file in .wav format uncompressed from Audacity.  Then drag and drop it into "wavtoac3encoder"and create your file.
    If you don't need to edit the multi-track .wav file from Premiere in Audacity, then just drag and drop that file into "wavtoac3encoder" and encode.
    The quality, although probably not as good as SurCode, sounds good to me.
    Remember, this is strictly for non-commercial use.

  • Does Final Cut Express 4 work with mac mini and other questions...?

    I have a few questions I need help in answering... I would appreciate opinions on the following:
    I am about to make a purchase of a new mac. I already have a mac mini PPC, but it is too slow...
    Here is what I am thinking.
    Mac mini, 2GB mem, 160GB hard drive. Will this new mac mini work with Final Cut Express 4?
    Or should I go with the more powerful iMac?
    I like to make movies on my mac but I hate iMovie 08 so I constantly use iMovie HD 06. Should I go to Final Cut Express 4 or just stick with iMovie HD 06?

    There is no doubt that FCE 4 will run on an Intel mini - the GMA graphics processor is compatible. There is also no doubt that an iMac would give you somewhat better overall performance, though it's important perhaps to note that as complex as FCE is, it is actually a little less demanding on hardware than iMovie has traditionally been, so the difference between a mini with 2Gb RAM and a similarly equipped iMac will not be all that great in FCE, though it will become a little more noticeable if you continue to use iMovie 6.
    The main reason for the performance difference between iMovie and FCE is that in order to provide a reasonably sophisticated video editing package that will run on very basic hardware, Apple relied heavily on caching techniques, meaning that while FCE basically spools from video and relies on CPU power, iMovie constantly moves data to and from the hard drive. The mini's hard drive is a (relatively) slow device in comparison to the iMac's - thus the iMac runs iMovie rather more seamlessly. In FCE, the difference is, as said, rather less clear unless you were to go for the top-end model.
    If your budget can stretch to an iMac it makes sense to go that route simply because the extra power and overall performance (and the better graphics processor) will give you greater flexibility down the road. On the other hand, if funds are tight and you need to spend as little as reasonably possible, a mini will do fine, and is sufficient;y inexpensive that in a couple of years could be sold off and replaced without severe financial implications.
    In terms of the choice between FCE or iMovie, beware that if you haven't used FCE before, the transition is not easy, and the learning curve for it is pretty steep. That said, it has far greater power and flexibility in terms of what you can achieve with it than has ever been possible with iMovie.
    That said, for casual and home use, iMovie (version 6 at least) has plenty of power and tools for the majority of projects. iMovie 8 is, in many ways, deeply flawed for those who want that sort of power and workflow tools, being that it is designed for quick and easy creation of movies, not creative and considered productions. It has it's uses, but if you have experience with iMovie already, v8 is really not intended for you at all.
    All that said, I've used iMovie 6 on systems will a lot less power than the current Intel minis, and have found it stable and workable, so I have no doubt it would work well on any current Mac.

  • IPhoto 6 workflow questions -- iPhoto & Elements

    All -- just installed iLife 6, but have not used it yet. The combination of iWeb & .mac looks very promising for finally being able to easily share my photos with my family/friends. But I am still not clear on the best file workflow to be able to take advantage of all the iPhoto/iWeb/,mac functionality, and also the editing power of Adobe Elements (the editing software I am using). If you all could help me with this I would be so grateful.
    I shoot JPEG.
    I move a photo from iPhoto to Element to edit it.
    If my goal is to move it back to iPhoto to share, how should I resize it? How should I optimize it for the best quality while viewing on a monitor, but with enough quality that if folks want to make a print, they can?
    What format should I save it back to iPhoto in? JPEG? Or can iPhoto handle TIF or PSD and is that recommended?
    What about a master, unedited image. Should I worry about that? And if so, where will that live?
    If I plan on printing a photo, should I optimize the file for that purpose and print from Elements instead of bringing the file back into iPhoto?
    As you can see from my questions, I am still unclear on the relationship of iPhoto and Elements (or any other editing software). I would be so grateful for any help you can give in this discussion, or other places you can point me to get this information.
    Thanks everyone!
    Greg

    haha, the way I work is, if a program doesn't do what I want the way I want it, then I find a program that does. For many, just iPhoto will fit the bill.
    This is what I do. I take a photo shoot. If it is important photos, I upload them to ClubPhoto so others can download and print them. Most often I do not print my 4x6 photos. I wait till there is a special at ClubPhoto for half price prints and order all my yearly prints at that time. I buy one photo album that fits 200 photos and I order 200 photos from my albums online to be printed. Year in photos are now done.
    If someone comes over and says, hey, I love that photo, can you print it out for me? then I use my Printers software to print the 4x6 or 8x10.
    I used .mac and now iWeb to keep family and friends informed of whats going on in Photos and videos. It's more or less just for fun.
    When I said I have an iWeb site, I mean that I have used iWeb, a new application in the iLife suite to publish a web site with photos movie clips and a blog.
    You do not have to do any resizing if you are going to use iWeb as the software does it for you behind the lines.
    If you are resizing to upload anywhere else or for another purpose, it all depends on what size you need for your purpose. For album sites, 800x600 is a good size.
    For emailing a photo, either do it right within iPhoto and you will get a choice on what size you want to send, or export to the desktop, at which time you can input the size you want to export the photo at.
    I always keep full resolution photos in my library. If I want a smaller size, I always export the image at a smaller size and keep the full size in the library.

  • RAW workflow questions - image degradation over several edits with 08?

    I currently use Aperture to manage (and edit) my digital photo library. After reading about iphoto 08, the only major thing I can see preventing me from using it would be the RAW editing.
    An example would be a photo taken in RAW format and edited in iPhoto. It is saved as a JPEG. Any future editing ontop of that jpeg and the image begins degrading as levels of compression are added ontop of it (I think).
    In Aperture, the raw file is maintained and any editing to the RAW file becomes non-destructive as the RAW format is retained in "real time" (so to speak).
    I know iPhoto also retains the original RAW file, but not the edited RAW file.
    My question is this: with the great extra features of iPhoto (such as easier integration with .Mac) I am seriously considering a switch, but am concerned about image degradation. For all the semi-pro users, what is your RAW workflow in regards to iPhoto? Do you edit the file once, then when editing is required in the future just re-edit the JPEG or go back to the original RAW?
    For any former Aperture users who switched to iPhoto, was it worth it?
    Thanks!!

    Terence,
    Once again, thank you for a most helpful answer. I was wondering about the same issue. I guess this means that when you edit RAW files in iPhoto, it uses a similar approach than Aperture and Lightroom now. With far less options of course, but if you just doing basic editing of white balance and shadow/highlight, iPhoto is an appealing alternative.
    If I understand correctly the Raw conversion is done at the system level, so iPhoto and APerture even use the same conversion engine, right?
    Thank you
    Bo

  • Advice Needed: Mac-based Video Workflow

    Greetings all,
    My congregation is thinking of purchasing an iMac to use to produce a video of each Sunday's message. I use a MacBook Pro and am a strong proponent of getting a Mac for this purpose. I'm in charge of researching the purchase. So, I'm posting here to bounce some ideas off everyone and see if anyone has any experience that could help me.
    So, typically a Sunday message lasts 15-20 minutes. We're looking for a camera that shoots in HD and stores the video as editable files on the camera. Then, as soon as the message is done, we'll have our video operator transfer the video files to the iMac, add some titles, and then export it in HD for posting to Vimeo. We want to find a workflow that goes quickly so the operator doesn't have to stay around forever waiting for the export process.
    As far as I know, that rules out AVCHD codec with iMovie, right? I understand it requires a lengthy decompression time, so that even a real-time capture of HDV would be faster!
    So, my questions are twofold:
    1) Does anyone know a camera that records HD files that could be transferred very quickly into iMovie?
    and
    2) Is a new iMac fast enough to export a 15-20 minute HD movie in 15-30 minutes?
    Thanks so much!

    Well, we want to go to HD. I'm well versed in the normal process of video making. I use a Canon HV20. I've just been asked to make the entire workflow happen in a much shorter time, since we have to have it complete before folks leave from the church. I was hoping we could add titles and the like in iMovie and go to HD, but that doesn't seem like a feasible option in the time window I have. I think I'm leaning toward getting a Sanyo Xacti HD1010 that records as MPEG files in the H.264 codec. Then we can just forgo the titling and simply place a raw file up to Vimeo and still have it be HD.
    The only thing I'm worried about now is staying under the 1 GB file limit with native shooting on a camera like that. You can shoot 1280×720 video on that camera at 9 mbits/sec, but I think for a Sunday sermon crossing the 15-16 minute threshold, we'd be over the 1 GB file limit that Vimeo and YouTube have. Yeesh. It seems there's not "fast" way to get HD video online. It takes a little bit more time, but that's to be expected with the higher quality. It doesn't bother me for my home movies!

  • Colour Space / Workflow question.

    Hi,
    I have been seconded to take photos at an up and coming family wedding.
    I will be using a Canon 300D Digital SLR, shooting in RAW, and performing post processing on a Mac using Aperture (yet to be purchased).
    I have established that my print lab works in the Adobe 1998 colour space. So, please let me know if I have the this right:
    As long as my screen is calibrated, and I work in and save my images as Adobe 1998, my prints should accurately resemble what was present on my screen?
    Is there a preference for which format (jpg, tiff, etc.) the images should be saved in for ensuring accurate print output from a pro lab ? They charge per print for RAW conversion, so I'm looking at saving finals as TIFF as the logical alternative.
    Also - can someone tell me if I should necessarily set the camera parameters to any particular colour space ? On the Canon, I have the option to set Adobe RGB, or a number of Canon pre-sets, or in fact set my own pre-sets for tone, colour saturation etc. Does this even matter if I'm shooting in RAW ?
    Any other advice on how I can ensure consistency in this workflow for this and future projects ?
    Sorry for all the questions, but many thanks,
    Paul
    MacBook Pro   Mac OS X (10.4.7)   23" Cinema Display

    I took your advice and sought more info from my lab.
    They have provided me with a calibration image on CD
    as well as a print of the same to do some side by
    side comarison with my monitor. They also provided a
    colour settings file for Photoshop. Armed with all of
    this I seem to be getting closer to understanding the
    necessary adjustments (although I temporarily
    confused things by introducing my home printer into
    the equation, until I realised that this thing also
    has it's own colour settings).
    To me, it sounds like the color settings file for Photoshop is most likely the color profile data I was talking about - does it end in .icc? What are the instructions for installation?
    After you install it you can check the "Proofing Profile" dropdown in Aperture to see if you see anything like it - you'll need to restart Aperture after you install the icc profile (I think).
    You can import the image from teh CD into Aperture and try using the proofing with the color profile sent to see how close it looks.
    Basically the idea of the proofing and the profile is that by turning on on-screen proofng, you are taking the colors you have and seeing how the smaller range of color availaible in the printer will reflect what you have.. this gives you the ability to alter tones until the image you have better fits into the range of colors the printer can produce.
    I haven't purchased Aperture yet, but I presume there
    will be a way to invoke settings similar to the
    colour settings in Photoshop so that what I'm seeing
    in Aperture will be consistent ?
    Yes, sorry for the above then which will be of little use until you get Aperture - basically there is a "Proofing Profile" dropdown and a command to enable or disable "Onscreen Proofing" (which is just like CS2's "Proof Colors").
    Aperture makes use of any color profile defined in the system, so hopefully the installation instructions are for general OS X color profile installation. If it's an icc file you can install it for use with all of OS X.
    Correct me if I'm wrong, but from what you're saying
    it actually makes no difference what parameters I
    specify in my camera if I'm shooting in RAW ? This is
    good to know, as the Adobe RGB setting in the Canon
    is actually quite 'washed out' - and I'd prefer to
    keep it in one of the sRGB settings for my 'snaphot /
    home printing' needs wheh shooting jpegs. So,
    provided I export in Aperture to Adobe RGB (my lab's
    preference) and work with a calibrated screen I
    should be okay ?
    Yes, all true. I just want to make sure to note that the choice of color profile does make a difference shooting JPG as it will affect the colors that are defined in the file (and the viewing of them in a browser), but from your comment above it seems you understood that aspect.
    I calibrated my current monitor (using software only
    at this stage). Does it particulary matter which
    colour space I choose to start from, if I'm modifying
    brightness, gamma, temperature etc. to save as a
    custom profile ?
    I'm not sure here what you mean by "color space you choose to start from".
    Also for profiling even a cheap device like the Huey would probably be a lot better than the software profiling - I went that route at first as well but the hardware stuff is worth it.
    One last, slightly dumb, question. Are "Adobe RGB
    1998" and "Adobe RGB" the same thing ?
    Yep, pretty much the same thing by slightly different names.

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