Maximize my Network
Hey Everyone. I would like some advice from someone on how to maximize my network. I have Verizon Fios. I have there Modem/Wireless Router. As well as a time capsule and a airport express. I have the time capsule set to be its own wireless network connected to the Verizon modem and an airport express in the second floor. I still get inconsistencies on the connection of the wireless, my download and upload speed is not the issue since i upgraded that about a month ago.I am in the process of moving all mobile devices and older computers to the verizon router and the main computers to the time capsule. I do have a large amount of devices ( maybe 7 computers and a large amount of tablets and phones --- I have a large family).
Any advice would be great.
Thanks in advance!
A few thoughts.....
Make sure that the Time Capsule and Fios modem/router are separated by 6-8 feet or a few meters to help minimize the chances of wireless interference occurring between the two devices....which can result in slow downs and inconsistent connections on the network.
Connect the AirPort Express back to the Time Capsule using a wired Ethernet cable connection if at all possible, since you are losing more than half of the network speed when the AirPort Express connects using wireless.
If you cannot connect using an Ethernet cable, try for line-of-sight between the Time Capsule and AirPort Express as much as possible.
If you have 10-12 wireless devices operating at the same time, you will likely need a 100 Mbps or higher connection plan with Fios to support everything.
Similar Messages
-
putting together a home network for one of our executives, large home with thick wall. current wireless doesnt reach the entire house. house has ethernet and some being added.
looking at implementing:
1x EA6900
3x WES610N
i know creating a single wireless zone isnt an issue, I want to make sure that the devices are able to work via ethernet and not wireless. in other words, that they all participate in the wireless zone but the data is actually going over the wire.
not sure if im making sense. are these the right devices?I believe your idea is nice when combined with what chadster766 suggested. Using the WRT1900AC with the wireless bridges will maximize the network capability. I am also making use of Powerline Adapters in my home, making use of the more stable wired connection. Check out this link.
My network is:
ISP Modem> Main wireless router>Powerline adapter><Powerline adapter+network switch in office.
Hope that helps. -
Needs to know the difference between 4500s and 6500s
i would like to referesh my company's GO and with 7613 router and has 2 6509E with sup720 core. it has a 4 MDF 6509E with sup720 also. now about IDF's i am confuse what i have to use. 4500s or 6500s. the main thinking is we would like to upgrade our desktop from 100M to 1G. so i have to think about the uplink between IDF and MDF.what is suitable for me in this case.
thanks.This is a very broad question which can't be covered in a single post.
My first suggestion is getting to know everything about each model.
Start by going to http://www.cisco.com/en/US/products/hw/switches/index.html
and click on each product family.
Second suggestion is giving your Cisco Sales rep a call, he will come onsite and show you how you can maximize your network environment and what product matches your criteria better. -
Saposcol "not set to [Maximize Throughput for Network Application]" W2008
Hi experts, I have sent a customer message to SAP asking "saposcol
show not set to [Maximize Throughput for Network Application" in
Windows 2008. But the answer is really strange. Is he correct?
========
26.06.2009 - 09:28:37 CET - by SAP
Dear Customer,
Installation guides clearly specify that configuring this memory
management option is not required for systems in Windows 2008.
Also, if you check note 65761, you will see that the note was last
modified on 20.04.2007, and the current version of sapntchk was not
modified since then (version 5.0.0.13). This obviously means that
sapntchk checks the memory management settings of your system as if
your operating system was a Windows 2000 or 2003, as Windows 2008
still did not exist.
Taking into account both considerations, you can disregard this message
raised by sapntchk and keep calm at the same time.
Right away, I send you back this message so you can close it at your
earliest convenience.
Best Regards,
<name removed>Hello Dennis,
Here is the way to find if the Maximize Throughput is enabled or not on windows 2008.
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\lanmanserver\parameters\size
Your choices for this registry key are 1,2 and 3.
1 = Minimize Memory Used
2 = Balance
3 = Maximize Throughput for File Sharing and Maximize Throughput for Network Applications
Be sure to set this to (3). By default it is configured to 1.
Best Regards
Kiran Kumar -
I want to maximize the speed on my network because I'm getting an Apple TV.
Here's what I have now:
AEBS (n, not dual)
AE (not n)
On the network have an n compatible iMac, two n compatible laptops and a very old iMac G4 with what must be a b card.
What's the best way to get everything on n?What about a solution that involves buying a new express or extreme, preferably express?
As long as you take into consideration that extending a network wirelessly affect overall bandwidth performance AND that your networking requirements require that you support a 802.11b client, then there would have to be a performance compromise.
In this case, either an Express or Extreme can be used to extend the wireless network of your existing AEBSn. Since your AEBSn is not a dual-band model, it will need to be configured to operate on the 2.4 GHz radio to support the 802.11b client and it will be this radio that you will be extending with the new Express or Extreme.
The other option would be to utilize PowerLine adapters which would take advantage of your home's electrical circuit. This adapters would create a hybrid Ethernet connection between them. You would place one near the existing AEBSn, and another, near the new base station. In this configuration, you would not employ WDS or extend. Instead, the second base station would be configured as bridged Wireless Access Point.
A third option would be to get a 802.11n USB wireless adapter for the 802.11b Mac. -
I have been using FF for a while now. My main computer was WinXP-32, though I recently bought a new laptop with Win7-64 installed. This problem was never experienced on my WinXP machine.
Brief description of problem:
After a time of having FF up and running, the minimize/maximize/restore/close buttons in the top-right no longer work as expected and, if not maximised, I cannot move the window around my desktop nor resize the browser window. When clicked, the buttons will
rapidly flash on and off continuously without appearing to perform any noticeable function other than temporarily hogging CPU cycles. I've found that clicking (sometimes double clicking) in the main browser window then mousing over the buttons again seems
to stop them flashing, though does nothing else.
To minimize/maximize/restore/move/close the window(s), I have to right-click on the relevant tab in my taskbar and pick the desired option. Occasionally, however, even this doesn't work and the right-click menu will disappear as soon as I move the mouse
over it after right-clicking. 'Show desktop' is a temporary fix for minimising windows and 'ALT + F4' or 'CTRL + W' for closing windows or tabs. This isn't satisfactory and to move or resize a window, I have to close the window in question (sometimes all other
windows too), reopen it and do what I need to do, though sometimes even this is only a very short fix. If I have to close all the windows, FF will sometimes keep running for a while afterwards, even though no windows are actually open - simply ending the process
via the windows task manager will fix this though is only a work-around, not a fix.
One thing I have noticed is that if I manage to move the browser window (when not maximised), for a short period afterwards I can often resize the window successfully. This is more likely to occur if the browser window is not flush with the edge of my screen
once moved.
I've tried to include as much information as I can - most of which was determined after several minutes/hours of playing around with different scenarios, trying to manually reproduce particular problems or simply through sheer luck of happening to click
in the right place at the right time! I hope there is a reasonably fix for this at some point in the not-too-distant future.
I noticed in some of the threads at another site where people have voiced problems similar to mine, that a link to 'ObjectDock' was discovered in some cases. I do have 'ObjectDock 1.90 Plus' installed on my machine and use it in many ways and so decided
to see if I could find a connection between the two. I have uninstalled, tested, and reinstalled both programs in a multitude of ways, though could find no conclusive correlation between having both bits of software running or installed at the same time and
the problems I am experiencing. In my case, at least, this does not appear to be an answer.
Also, in another thread on this site, someone suggested there might be a link with AVG Anti-Virus Free (I have version 9.0.819) though I've tried uninstalling it and its various add-ons in several different combinations, with no noticeable improvement.
Sorry for such a long question... If you need to know anything more, just let me know!
- James
System Information:
Operating System: Windows 7 (64 bit)
Firefox Version: 3.6.3
Application Basics
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Firefox
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{E2883E8F-472F-4fb0-9522-AC9BF37916A7}
Modified Preferences
Name
Value
accessibility.typeaheadfind.flashBar
0
browser.history_expire_days.mirror
180
browser.places.importBookmarksHTML
false
browser.places.smartBookmarksVersion
2
browser.startup.homepage
http://www.bath.ac.uk/
browser.startup.homepage_override.mstone
rv:1.9.2.3
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privacy.sanitize.migrateFx3Prefs
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privacy.sanitize.timeSpan
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security.warn_viewing_mixed.show_once
falseHi Kossa,
You can also check if the issue occurs in
Clean Boot. If the issue disappears in the Clean Boot environment, you can continue to narrow down which entry is causing the issue.
Besides, uninstall it and re-download
a fresh copy of FireFox to check the result. If the issue still exists, create a new user account to see if it occurs.
If the issue persists, you can contact Mozilla Support directly and use Internet Explorer (IE) during the time.
J
Please Note: The third-party product discussed here is manufactured by a company that is independent of Microsoft. We make no warranty, implied or otherwise,
regarding this product's performance or reliability.
Regards,
Linda -
Setting up home network with new and old Macs and 1GBps internet connection
I have a 1 GBps internet connection and want to take advantage of it. I have three 802.11ac capable Apple products - a Macbook Air, Macbook Pro and Imac. The signal currently runs from an Aris modem into a Netgear router that maxes out at 100mbps. My Apple Extreme (not the new one with 802.11ac) is connected to the Netgear , so choked at 100mbps. Everything runs off Wifi. I have run speedtests on all my computers and nothing runs over 50mbps in the current setup. I also run some home security stuff off "DDNS" that does not work with Apple products (thus the Netgear router) so I need to consider that too. I use two 802.11n extenders around the house. I am being told I cannot use the newer 802.11ac Extemes because it would not work with the DDNS Security stuff. What do I do to maximize speeds from Wifi and keep the DDNS stuff?
What do I do to maximize speeds from Wifi and keep the DDNS stuff?
For maximum Wi-Fi speeds only, use all 802.11ac devices ... both wireless routers & wireless clients. For full DDNS support, only use routers that support this feature.
For maximum overall bandwidth Internet-to-network client, use routers that support 1Gbps WAN-to-LAN & LAN-to-WAN interfaces. There are not many on the market currently that supports this. Also these routers should provide Gigabit Ethernet on both the WAN & LAN sides.
To get an idea of what's available, please check out the SmallNetBuilder's to compare routers. -
Do I have too many wifi networks
I could use some other opinions on my setup as as I'm just not sure I've gone about this the right way over time. I don't know if all these signals are creating conflicts or anything.
For all referenced wifi/wireless signals, I have not limited to a particular channel or signal.
Through the past few years I've tried to maximize our wifi signal such that we have good coverage inside the house and outside while sitting on the front and back porch. Our house is 4 levels including a basement and top floor with 6,000 square feet or so. With kids/parents, etc, we have an apple tv connecting wirelessly, two iphones, we control our outdoor speakers wirelessly, one macbook, multiple ipads/iphones, etc. The set up I have today is:
Verizon ran the FiOs stuff through the basement so their wire/router comes in on the bottom/basement floor. I've taken their Verizon router and turned off the wifi, and connect their router directly to an Apple time capsule. I have a wireless signal turned on here to cover the basement. All Ethernet connections in the house are to this TC in the basement.
Note all references to wireless networks are a wireless network by the same name but "created" with the same password (not extending a wireless network) unless otherwise noted:
Basement:
1. The wifi signal mentioned above.
On the ground level I have:
1. Kitchen connected by Ethernet with an airport express sending a wireless signal.
2. A cubby hole office area connected by ethernet with an airport express. This sends out a wireless signal.
3. Family room has an entertainment system with an airport express with speakers connected that are wired all the way outside the house. This system sends off a wireless signal that "extends" the wireless network (not connected by Ethernet due to location).
4. Recently added a brand new Time Capsule in the main office area. This sends a wireless signal as well. This was installed in the past 72 hours and I swear it seems like the signals have gotten worse in the house.
On the third floor:
1. A loft area is connected by Ethernet with a 1st gen Time Capsule. This sends a wireless signal.
2. The master bedroom is connected by Ethernet with an airport express. This sends a wireless signal.
4th floor: No hardware. Area rarely used.
In the ground floor, # 3 was needed with how we set up our outdoor speakers. I've noticed that different devices will connect to different wifi signals even if we're sitting side by side. I'm not an expert at this stuff but I basically kept adding hardware until I could feel comfortable I was getting a solid signal with the shape/construction of our house. Not sure if there is a better way to go about it.
Thanks for reading.In addition to John Galt's comments, here is some additional information to consider.
Mac laptops will generally do a good job of automatically switching from one wireless access point to another as they move about the house....to pick up the "best" quality signal from what is usually the closest wireless access point at any given time.
But, this is not generally true for iOS devices like an iPhone and iPad.....since these devices use much simpler operating systems than a Mac computer. As a general rule, an iOS will connect to the closest wireless access point (the strongest signal) when it is powered up.
But, if you move an iOS device from one area to another, the iOS will usually not switch access points quickly, and instead hold onto the original AirPort to which it connected....even if it is close to another access point. Kind of a nature of the beast with the iOS system.
The iOS device might switch over to another access points after some time....a few minutes or longer....and it might not. You have to experiment a bit to find out how things behave at your home.
So, if you are moving an iOS device from one side of the house to another, or from upstairs to downstairs....and you want the iOS device to connect to the best quality signal....turn off the WiFi temporarily for a minute or two on the iOS device and then turn it back on when the iOS device is in the new location. The iOS device will usually connect to the stronger wireless access point when you do this. -
How can I extend a wireless network with my AirPort Extreme Base Station?
Today I purchased a brand new, dual-band base station to replace my Belkin N router, as I have had a handful of firewall, coverage, and other networking problems in my house lately. First off, I really like this router and it was very easy to setup. My MacBook Pro could use both bands and established a 300 Mbit/s link very quickly. After tweaking various settings to my liking, I was also able to maximize the connections on many of my non-Apple machines and devices. I noticed that the range of its network was better than my Belkin's, but unfortunately, it failed to completely saturate the area sufficiently. Since the Belkin still works well enough, I was hoping I could bridge them together one way or the other.
The Belkin router does not support any bridge mode that I know of, but the AirPort Extreme should be able to join a wireless network and then extend that over WiFi and Ethernet, correct? I would like to place them at opposite ends of my home so I can get strong WiFi signals everywhere inside. However, when I try to get the base station to connect to my preexisting WiFi connection, it tells me that I can't extend the network and fails to join.
So is this possible? And if it is, how would I go about setting it up? I know it would probably be easier if I had a simple range booster such as an AirPort Express, but I didn't buy one while I was at Fry's since I hoped I could make use of the older Belkin. This is its product page, if needed. Thanks for any suggestions.
-MacUserThe Belkin router does not support any bridge mode that I know of, but the AirPort Extreme should be able to join a wireless network and then extend that over WiFi and Ethernet, correct?
Sorry, but no. The AirPort Extreme Base Station cannot "join" a network like the AirPort Express or Time Capsule, but you wouldn't want to do this anyway because in this configuration these devices will only perform as wireless clients ... not routers.
Instead, the AirPort Extreme can either be extended or can extend another 802.11g or 802.11n AirPort ... or a very very few non-AirPort devices.
One option for your Belkin would be to connect it to the AirPort Extreme by Ethernet but this may not meet your requirements or be a desirable situation. Otherwise, you would need to get another AirPort to extend your current one. -
How to Set Up AirPort Extreme 802.11n only Network
I purchased a used AirPort Extreme base station and a used AirPort Express off eBay to upgrade my home network. Both are the latest model AE (dual band II, firmware 7.5.1) and AX (802.11n, firmware 7.4.2). I want to use my AE as main router (Internet connection, DHCP) and use my AX to wirelessly extend network to my family room, where I have my Xbox accepting only wired network. And I want AE and AX to communicate through 802.11n to maximize bandwidth. Sounds easy right?
Well, I've got this set up mostly working except the 802.11n part. Not matter what I do, It seems only operating in g mode. I made my AE creating a 5Ghz network but I couldn't find this network anywhere. Not on my iPad, not on my iMac.
I'm wondering if I have a defective AE. The seller on eBay told me he used the 11n network just fine. The router is still under warranty, I'm wondering if I should ask Apple for a repair? But since I'm pretty new to Mac in general, I figure there might be something I just missed and hence this post. Any help is greatly appreciated!
Some screenshots of my configuration: http://picasaweb.google.com/xianxu/IPadI do have an AX that extends the AE network. There is nowhere on AX that I can specify radio mode, once I specified it to extend a network. I assume AX talks to AE over the n network and then extends the network to be g compatible? Sounds really strange.
Maybe not too strange. Since the AX is a single-band device, it can only extend the AEBSn's 2.4 or 5 GH radio, at a time, not both simultaneously. Since your iPhone was able to connect, most likely, it was extending the 2.4 GHz radio ... which was also configured to support "g" devices. What I haven't figured out is how, if you set the AEBSn's Radio Mode to "n only" why non-"n" are still able to connect when the network is extended.
... I chose to create a different network name for 5Ghz radio as something like: MID-EARTH (5 GHz). However I can't seem to find this network anywhere. I'm wondering why this is the case? Is my AE somewhat defective?
This may be a completely different issue than the extended network one. If you remove the AX from the network equation, wireless clients should see two different Network Names or SSIDs ... one being "MID-EARTH (5 GHz)" and whatever you called the 2.4 GHz network. That is, assuming that the client is capable of accessing both bands. If this is not the case, we would need to revisit your AEBSn's configuration settings. -
Using my LinkSys WRT54G as a router in a home network, but not as the Gateway of the same?
Greetings,
I am in a situation where I share internet access with roommates. We have a Gateway which is conected to the provider and which delivers ethernet and WiFi signal.
In order to isolate myself from my roomates and to protect my network connection, both wired and WiFi, I would like to plug in the Ethernet cable I get from the Gateway to my router, and then configure my router's firewall and WiFi enctryption to maximize my safety.
However, I am having some problems. I have already configured the router as "router" and not "Gateway" and I am trying to assign it an IP address different from the default one, which is the one the gateway has, and a ranger of DHCP IP's, also different from those of the Gateway. In other words, 192.1681.N.1 for the router and start from there.
Any pointers will be appreciated because so far, my efforts have failed.
Jean-PIerreThere are two (2) ways to cascade a Linksys router to another router:
1. LAN to LAN – Connecting one of the Ethernet ports (LAN ports) of the Linksys router (router A) to one of the Ethernet ports (LAN ports) of another router (router B).
This type of cascading requires the main and the secondary router to be on the same LAN IP segment to allow the computers and other devices to connect to both routers. This configuration is recommended if you want to share files and resources within the network.
2. LAN to WAN – Connecting one of the Ethernet ports (LAN ports) of router A to the Internet port (WAN port) of router B.
This type of cascading requires the main router and the secondary router to have different IP addresses. This connection makes it easier to identify which router the computers and other devices in the network are connected to since they will have different LAN IP segments. However, computers that are connected to router A will not be able to communicate with router B, and vice versa since they are two different networks.
Here is the link for same: http://www6.nohold.net/Cisco2/ukp.aspx?vw=1&docid=d4bfc9fde5284a4b845c9057ffbeb644_4735.xml&pid=80&r... -
== Issue
==
I have another kind of problem with Firefox
== Description
==
I use Firefox Version 3.6.6. If firefox is kept opened for a day or two with some tabs opened, then the active buttons like the "Back","Forward","Maximize","minimize","Close", etc and even the links on the webpage become disabled. On mouse click no action gets performed on these type of links. Once this starts only a PC restart causes Firefox to work normally.
Please kindly help me with a solution and I would request a fix for this issue.
== This happened
==
A few times a week
== Firefox is kept opened for long time, may be for a day or two with quite a lot of tabs opened.
==
== Troubleshooting information
==
Application Basics
Name Firefox
Version 3.6.6
Profile Directory
Open Containing Folder
Installed Plugins
about:plugins
Build Configuration
about:buildconfig
Extensions
Name
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Enabled
ID
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print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Left_Wing_Printer.print_oddpages true
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Left_Wing_Printer.print_orientation 0
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Left_Wing_Printer.print_pagedelay 500
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Left_Wing_Printer.print_paper_data 1
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Left_Wing_Printer.print_paper_height 11.00
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Left_Wing_Printer.print_paper_size_type 0
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Left_Wing_Printer.print_paper_size_unit 0
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Left_Wing_Printer.print_paper_width 8.50
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Left_Wing_Printer.print_reversed false
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Left_Wing_Printer.print_scaling 1.00
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Left_Wing_Printer.print_shrink_to_fit true
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Left_Wing_Printer.print_to_file false
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Left_Wing_Printer.print_unwriteable_margin_bottom 0
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Left_Wing_Printer.print_unwriteable_margin_left 0
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Left_Wing_Printer.print_unwriteable_margin_right 0
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Left_Wing_Printer.print_unwriteable_margin_top 0
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Right_Wing_Printer.print_bgcolor false
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Right_Wing_Printer.print_bgimages false
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Right_Wing_Printer.print_command
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Right_Wing_Printer.print_downloadfonts false
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Right_Wing_Printer.print_edge_bottom 0
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Right_Wing_Printer.print_edge_left 0
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Right_Wing_Printer.print_edge_right 0
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Right_Wing_Printer.print_edge_top 0
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Right_Wing_Printer.print_evenpages true
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Right_Wing_Printer.print_footercenter
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Right_Wing_Printer.print_footerleft &PT
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Right_Wing_Printer.print_footerright &D
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Right_Wing_Printer.print_headercenter
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Right_Wing_Printer.print_headerleft &T
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Right_Wing_Printer.print_headerright &U
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Right_Wing_Printer.print_in_color true
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Right_Wing_Printer.print_margin_bottom 0.5
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Right_Wing_Printer.print_margin_left 0.5
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Right_Wing_Printer.print_margin_right 0.5
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Right_Wing_Printer.print_margin_top 0.5
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Right_Wing_Printer.print_oddpages true
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Right_Wing_Printer.print_orientation 0
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Right_Wing_Printer.print_pagedelay 500
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Right_Wing_Printer.print_paper_data 1
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Right_Wing_Printer.print_paper_height 11.00
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Right_Wing_Printer.print_paper_size_type 0
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Right_Wing_Printer.print_paper_size_unit 0
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Right_Wing_Printer.print_paper_width 8.50
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Right_Wing_Printer.print_reversed false
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Right_Wing_Printer.print_scaling 1.00
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Right_Wing_Printer.print_shrink_to_fit true
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Right_Wing_Printer.print_to_file false
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Right_Wing_Printer.print_unwriteable_margin_bottom 0
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Right_Wing_Printer.print_unwriteable_margin_left 0
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Right_Wing_Printer.print_unwriteable_margin_right 0
print.printer_\\secureprint\Level_8_Right_Wing_Printer.print_unwriteable_margin_top 0
privacy.sanitize.migrateFx3Prefs true
security.warn_viewing_mixed false
== User Agent
==
Opera/9.80 (Windows NT 5.1; U; en) Presto/2.5.24 Version/10.54I do not use McAfee software and I am having this issue. I can right-click on the "back-or-forward" buttons and get a history list to choose from (which is far from an improvement), but do not get any response from a left-click. The "back-or-forward" navigation buttons are greyed-out. Also, when I open Firefox (4), I get two title bars at the top with two separate sets of the "minimize", "maximize" and "close" icons. It appears as if one window is open within another, but if I click any of the commands "both" windows respond. It's annoying and cumbersome.
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Optimal Ethernet Network for FCS Usage
Hi I recently purchased a G5 Dual 1.8 G5 PCI-X. I also have a G4 QuickSilver 867 with an upgraded processor (Sonnet 1.8 Ghz). According to the specs, they both have Gigabit Ethernet built in. My question is this....
To maximize the transfer of files, etc. between the two, I assume I need a Gigabit Ethernet hub. I have a hub now, but I know it is not GB Ethernet. I also have a G4 QS 867 with OS X Server 10.39 on it. I would like to use the server to store my video, audio and graphic files for retrieval. Is this a workable set-up. I talked with Larry Jordan who trains on Final Cut Pro and he says my down side will be the speed of the network via Ethernet. I know the optimal transfer of data for video editing is via Firewire (preferably FW 800). The G5 will be used exclusively with Final Cut Studio 2. I plan on adding two 1.5 TB drives and have an external FW 800 enclosure with two 500 GB drives for storage.
The question is this--do I need any additional cards in any of the machines for Gigabit performance between machines or is the built-in Ethernet with a GB Ethernet hub sufficient for my intended use?Thanks NL Edit. I knew the downsides going into the purchase. However, What I am using now is a QuickSilver 2001 G4 with a Sonnet 1.8 Ghz upgrade card and an ATI Radeon 9800 Pro Mac Special Edition card. I produced a 30 minute documentary for a local church's 50th Anniversary using that and FCS 2. I actually can work 3D in Motion as well. My issues are two things: Time and Money...TIME, because the G4 takes a bit to render and MONEY because for what I picked-up the G5 for was a pittance for the nominal bump in performance. I have already installed FCS in the G5 and notice a significant increase and time savings.
Thanks for your help, If I could spring for a MacPro, I would have had it LONG ago believe me. -
Low Network Utilization in Remote Disk Backup via SAP FTP
Hi gurus,
I'm running whole online backup + redo log to backup my SAP server to backup server via SAPFTP (remote disk backup).
I'm using 100Mbps network connection between the two servers, with SAP server configured to 'maximize data throughput for network application'.
When I copy data from SAP Server to backup server manually, the speed is OK (around 98% network utilization).
But when I use put command in program RSFTP002 (SAPFTP) for the same file, the network utilization is just around 10%.
I use Windows Server 2003 x64 for SAP Server, and Windows Server 2008 x64 for Backup Server.
Each has adequate RAM, 8GB for SAP Server and 4GB for Backup Server.
Is this technical problem or is it because backup is considered background process, thus lowering its speed?
Help will be very much appreciated.
Edited by: Bobby Gunawan on Jan 9, 2009 11:44 AMgo read http://help.sap.com/saphelp_45b/helpdata/en/0d/d311324a0c11d182b80000e829fbfe/frameset.htm
it's old but should help you nonetheless.
I would not use SAPFTP as you found out, it is slow.
use DD instead which is much faster. -
I have a NetComm NB5Plus4W ADSL2+ (802.11g) wireless modem router connecting my MacBook wirelessly to the internet. I also have an iMac in another part of the house which I would like to connect to the internet through the same modem, but for some reason the signal strength goes from full strength to nothing without any reason. I have the highest internet speed available in Australia with a dedicated connection.
I don't understand why this is possible when no other conditions have changed within the structure of the house. I have even tried moving the iMac to another room only 5 meters from the router without achieving a connection.
Sometimes there is a connection, sometimes there is not. But when there is it always seems to be full strength. There appears to be no in-between (half-strength signals)
Can anyone make a suggestion.There doesn't appear to be anything in the network settings that refer to interference robustness. Is this something that is associated with using Airport Express or Time Capsule? If so, I'm using a 3rd party modem router.
Interferences Robustness is a WiFi base station setting. However, every manufacture uses different terms. Interferences Robustness is one used by Apple in their Airport Extreme/Express/Time Capsule line of base stations.
What you want to look for are WiFi base station settings that maximize power, and reduce the bit rate. More power is obvious. A slower bit rate allows more bandwidth for representing a bit so both base station and Mac have a higher chance of seeing the data.
You really need to follow the advice about checking for interference from neighbors. Download one of the WiFi sniffers
WiFi Scanner
<http://www.macupdate.com/info.php/id/33185/wifi-scanner>
AP Grapher
<http://www.macupdate.com/info.php/id/11859/ap-grapher>
iStumbler
<http://www.macupdate.com/info.php/id/11753/istumbler>
KisMAC
<http://www.macupdate.com/info.php/id/10133/kismac>
AirRadar
<http://www.macupdate.com/info.php/id/27740/airradar>
AirMoose
<http://www.macupdate.com/info.php/id/25661/airmoose>
Also 2.4GHz cordless phones, Microwave ovens, 2.4GHz baby monitors, Garage Door openers, along with other WiFi base stations can all interfere with your WiFi connections (and any of these things can be yours or your neighbors).
And depending on how your walls are constructed you can loose signal there. Concrete walls, walls using metal studs instead of wood 2x4s, house hold appliances between the base station and Mac, etc...
If you can not get WiFi to work, you could look at running an ethernet cable to the iMac, or an ethernet cable to a room closer to the iMac and setting up a WiFi extension (in bridge mode), or getting ethernet over powerline adaptors.
Maybe you are looking for
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I bought mountain lion for my macbook pro and I'm trying to install it and it says there was an error and I need to boot up but I don't have any other start up disks to boot up with. Are there any suggestions of how I could get my computer started?
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Will my LG GBW-H20L work in the new Mac Pro?
I've got an LG GBW-H20L Blu Ray drive in my Vista machine, but am looking to get the new Mac Pro. I was wondering if I could move my LG into the Mac Pro with no problem? I've read some posts that mention an IDE to SATA converter, but this drive is al
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Hi guys, Sorry to ask such a simple question but I can't seem to work out why Im get strange results when I do the following: double t = 1564654654 / 1000000000; System.out.println(t);The result I get is 1.0 but I should get 1.564654654 Any he
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Need to get max month in quarter
Hi, I need to get max month exchange rates in quarter for my caluclation view ? Can you any one suggest ? Regards, Ram
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I have a question about signing up for the iPhone.
Well, basically, I want an iPhone. I'm young, working, and I understand that when you buy an IPhone and sign up for the 2 year plan with AT&T, they run a credit check. Well, since I'm young, I have no credit yet. So how much extra will it cost to sig