Movie with stills - settings, raw, jpeg...

i took some pictures with my Rebel XT at a wedding last weekend and i am trying to create a movie in iMovie with them. i shot everything in raw and uploaded the images to iphoto then imported them to iMovie and created my video. i have exported the finished movie a few different ways and just not happy with the results. im just not sure if i am using the right settings or format for exporting. also, im wondering if there is maybe a problem with using straight raw or if i should export the pictures to jpeg first then import to iMovie.
any help with any of this will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!

I shoot in raw as well and after uploading my photos into iPhoto, I import them to iMovie without converting to jpeg. Through considerable experimentation, I have found that the following two processes work best for creating a DVD:
1. share movie to Media Browser then to iDVD, save as a disk image, and burn using Disk Utility at the slowest speed possible;
2. export to desk top (not using Quick Time), drop the .mov project into iDVD and burn from there, either directly or using the disk image>disk utility route.
Both processes have given me sharp, vivid images. At the moment I am working on a project that is 6 minutes long and growing. I have read in these discussions that iMovie is not meant to handle projects more than 15 minutes long. I will have to wait and see what happens when my project begins to exceed this time limit.
Good luck with your project.

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Making a stop motion movie with stills. Please help!

I have a question for someone really smart:)... I am making a stop motion movie on imac with still photos. when i select a photo from iPhoto, and add it to the imovie project, it is adding multiples of each picture and i have NO idea why. I dont know if i changed a setting somewhere or what. This simple project went from fun to frustrating pretty quick. Any help is GREATLY appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Hi
I would - to test and get project going
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• Now test iMovie and see if all is OK
If not - the problem might lay in iPhoto photo-library - To try to mend this - YOU NEED TIMES - lot's of times - did it Yesterday > 8 hours !
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Yours Bengt W

I exported my 1080i project as QT movie with current settings but...

when I burned it onto a dvd using iDVD and displayed it on my LCD HDTV using my PS3 (more acronyms please?) it still look compressed/pixelated and had artifacts. I exported to QT movie using "current settings" so I was assuming that the quality would be as good as it was while viewing it in FCP. Any idea what happened?
(using fcp 5.1.4)

Might try using Compressor and DVD SP for the DVD creation... the encodes to MPEG are better there I believe.
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When trying to "share" (export) my movie, if I select the "Expert Settings" option, nothing happens. That is, if I select "Expert Settings" and click "Share", then a dialogue window displays briefly and disappears, and the main iMovie window returns.
I'm running iMovie 4.01 on Jaguar. I tried deleting my iMovie prefs and the ~/Library/iMovie files, didn't help.
My iMovie project was previously corrupted somehow, I started a new project and imported the old ".mov" file to try to salvage it. This seems to have worked somewhat (I can play the movie and I can export it in some formats). But I can't use expert settings.
Help?
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Two things you might consider:
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- iMovie 2.1.1 can't export to QuickTime if Roxio Toast Titanium 5.0.1-5.1.1's Toast Video CD Export 1.0 is in iMovie's Resources:Plugins: folder. Toast Titanium 5.1.2 installs Toast Video CD Export 1.4 which fixes this. With new Toast versions this is not an issue.

Exporting a movie with the settings "nearest neighbor"

Hello everybody!
I am trying to upscale a movie from an old video game. The resolution is 320x240 and should be upscaled to 1440x1080. The problem is that I don't want Adobe Premiere Pro 6 to upscale it using a chroma subsampling method (http://ingomar.wesp.name/2011/04/dosbox-gameplay-video-capture.html), instead I want to use something similar to the option "nearest neigbor" (the one you have in Adobe Photoshop when you resize images). Why I want this is because I want to keep the pixels from the video game sharp. Is this possible to do?

And if you take a screen cap, import it into Photoshop and upscale by a factor 4 (with Nearest Neighbour) the result is amazing!
Actually, I find that up-rezzing with the Nearest Neighbor algorithm to be about the lowest quality of any of the algorithms. It came first, and is basically a holdover from about PS version 2.5. Bicubic interpolation was added later, and then Bicubic Smoother and Bicubic Sharper.
However, I am always working with continuous tone, high-rez digital photographs, and not screen-caps, so perhaps my material is not the ultimate to judge Nearest Neighbor?
Still, for a 16x increase, about the only thing that I can suggest (and this is for Stills, and not Video) would be Genuine Fractals (once Human Softaware, but acquired by another company). Still, that is beyond the max limit that I would be comfortable with.
Others have mentioned Red Giant's Magic Bullet Instant HD, and I would download the trial, then test. That might be "as good as it get."
Good luck,
Hunt

Any "3rd" party program for making DVD's with movies and stills....???

I think I have read every post on this or other sites about maximizing burned DVD quality after using imovie. At the end of the day I can only say this. I used proshowgold on my PC and the DVD's that were burned had MUCH better quality pictures and video. The DVD when shown on a TV was much more vivid. I did not have to lace/deinterlace/h.264/mv2/upscale/drag.. etc.etc.... you get the point. I love the mac but I want to make a movie with stills and music, hit "burn" or move to iDVD and have a decent DVD to give to friends.
I looked at FCE but that didn't seem to be the answer for movies and stills.. ?? Anything else out there...???
Any help other than "your doing it wrong" is appreciated....

As Shawn said they keep on changing things around
In an older version it looked like this [link to image|http://dvdstepbystep.com/toast.jpg]
Click on New disc on the bottom, name the disc and drag the AUDIO_TS and VIDEO_TS File in
You can also [use this|http://www.kenstone.net/fcphomepage/image_to_diskstone.html] to make a .img from iDVD and DVD SP then burn to disc....

RAW + JPEG Import Settings Confusion

I recently bought a new camera which allows me to shoot in RAW and RAW+JPEG mode. I have at present set it to the latter, partially to be safe, and also for allowing quick image loading when out and about and can quickly upload the JPEG files to my ipad.
But having just purchased Aperture 3, I am really confused over the RAW+Separate import brick's choices.
I really cannot work out which is the best option,
Both (Raw as Master),
Both (JPEG As Master),
Both (Separate Masters) or
Just RAW.
I have been reading a book called "Aperture 3 Portable Genius, but to be honest, it has only made things even more confusing!
Can someone please advise which are the best settings to use, and under what circumstances I would use the particular setting.
Thanks :-)

"best settings to use" is hard to answer, since it depends what kind of photography you're doing and how you like to work.
It might be useful to understand that if you import 'jpeg as master' aperture treats the jpeg/master pair as one entity. When you edit the photo in AP you'll be editing the jpeg. If you want to get to the RAW, you'll have to choose "Set Raw as Master". Vice-Versa if you import 'raw as master'.
If you import 'both (separate masters)' you'll see both jpeg and raw in AP as 2 separate files which can be edited separately. I've never actually used this option, so I could be wrong about that.
I guess the first thing to decide is which format you most want to work with in Aperture. If you only want to work with RAW in AP, then choose 'RAW files only'. In this scenario the only reason you're shooting raw+jpeg is for the quick upload to iPad.
Maybe it would help if I explain how/why I use pairs. I shoot a lot of architectural interiors and most of the time I work closely with an art director who needs to see what the shots are looking like as the session proceeds. I shoot raw+jpeg for this and send the jpegs to my laptop over wi-fi for review. This is the *only* reason I'm shooting pairs, as the tiny jpeg makes the journey so much quicker than the large raw and is of sufficient quality for the purpose. I have the camera set to produce the smallest jpeg possible for fastest transfer.
Back at base I'll import the raw files only. Even if I was using a higher resolution jpeg I'd still only import raw. For me it's what Aperture is all about, and unlike say... wedding photography, this type of shoot is low volume so there's no advantage in working with jpeg, and many advantages in working with raw.
Actually, I use another import option for pairs: 'matching Raw files only'. This is a huge timesaver. It means that during the shoot we can rate the photos (jpegs) as we go, and I'm only importing the raws that meet that rating. IE I don't have to import the entire shoot and try to remember which lighting set-up (for eg) the director liked best.
Hope that helps. Also, take a look under "more like this" upper right on this page. Some good stuff in there.
Charles

Bug: RAW+JPEG Pairs import setting affects movie imports

Hi,
I want to exclude JPEG duplicates during import, but if I set RAW+JPEG Pairs to "RAW files only", then movie files are not imported. The only way I can get movie files imported is to import both RAW and JPEG. Is there a workaround for this bug?

Import the stills and movies separately and change the setting between imports.
If you feel this is a bug report it using Aperture->Provide Aperture Feedback

Develop settings when importing RAW + jpeg

When importing NEF files from my D700 I apply the landscape sharpening pre-set and am happy with the results. However on my Fuji X20 I import RAW+jpeg rather than just RAW, in this situation if I use the landscape sharpening pre-set sharpening is applied to the jpeg as well as the RAW resulting in the already sharpened in camera jpeg being grossly over sharpened. If on the other hand I use none for the develop pr-set no sharpening or noise reduction is applied to the jpeg and a minimum amount applied to the RAW file, more or less what I want except I want the higher landscape sharpening applied to the RAW files. Is there anyway to modify the built in pre-sets so that they only get applied to the RAW files when importing RAW+jpeg pairs?
Dave Rosser

I believe the answer is No, you cannot apply a preset at Import time based on file type.
What you can do is after you import, filter on File Type and set it to JPG and apply another preset that changes the sharpening settings of the filtered set of files, then go back and turn off the filter and work with both sets of images as you want.
To filter by File Type, you need to go to Library Grid, enable the filter bar with the backslash \ key if necessary, then select Metadata, and either change one of the existing filter columns to say File Type or add a new File Type column.
Once you have created and applied the filter, you can save it as a filter preset that can be applied by the filter preset selector at the very right and just above the thumbnail strip at the bottom, even in Develop mode.
You might make one for raw and for jpg in case you want to swap between the two, and if you shoot JPGs with more than one camera model, you can add the camera model to the filter criteria.

Exporting raw, with metadata settings

is it possible to export a raw image from aperture with the settings applied in aperture (either as dng, if imported as such, or with xmp sidecar file)? i only see export options for a version (tiff, jpg, etc) or original (as shot or originally imported). but what if i decide i don't like aperture and want to go over to lightroom or back to bridge ACR or any other system?
aperture isn't what i want it be yet, and although i have hopes that it will be soon, i don't like the idea of spending a lot of time applying settings that i will lose if i decide later to move to a different program (lightroom, etc) later.
powerbook 1.67 Mac OS X (10.4.3)

that really is a big commitment then... for something that is in my mind severely flawed and only a work in progress. and incredibly slow not to mention. i spent a lot of time on some vacation photos recently, not even a job, and now i feel those photos are going to be forever stuck in there if i later decide to abandon aperture.
i think it's going to be a duke out between lightroom and aperture, but at least a migration from my current workflow - bridge/acr - will be a two way street with lightroom. (actually, currently lightroom is unalbe to write to dng files, which is amazing since it is an adobe creation, right? but at least they are aware of the issue and have rightfully called their program a beta version).

How to import only RAW images from folder with RAW & JPEGs?

My system is set up that I have both RAW & JPEGs in the same folder since I shoot JPEG+RAW. How can I import just the raw images without also sucking in the jpegs? There is no way to distinguish the difference in the Import box and also no way to easily separate the the two in the Import box. I've tried using the List View and separting them by File Size, but Aperture has a stupid bug here and it tells me that the JPEG file sizes are in the teens (like 17-18 megs) and they are still hard to separate from the RAW which are about the same size.
Why can't Aperture do this basic thing?

I'm not doing anything. What I wrote in my workflow example above is exactly what I'm doing. I've been trying some experiments to see if it was "A Better Finder Rename" that is causing the issue. So far, no go. I have taken just a couple of JPGs only and pointed Aperture's Import to the folder that contains them. Aperture is reading that there are only 2 jpegs (which is what there is) and their file size is right on the mark.
Ok. I just narrowed it down to something. The flaw is showing up after the RAW files are converted to DNGs. The JPEGs do not show up in the Import box when there are camera raw files like NEFs or CR2s and the corresponding JPEGs. That is Aperture's normal behaviour. But, and this is a big BUT, when the raw files are converted to DNGs and they are in the same folder as the corresponding JPEGs, that's when Aperture pulls its shenanigans. It has something to do with the JPEGs and DNGs having the same name. Even though the files have different extensions, Aperture is doing something to the file size of the JPEGs that make them seem that they are much larger files than they actually are.
I figured it out like this:
I had 2 CR2 files and the corresponding JPEGs in a folder. Pointing Aperture's Import to that folder, Aperture did what it is supposed to do; it saw only 2 raw files (doesn't matter that the G9 CR2 files are not supported yet). So, I renamed all the files using A Better Finder Rename and Aperture still only saw 2 raw files.
So far so good.
Then, I converted just the 2 CR2 files to DNG and kept them in the same folder. Aperture saw 2 DNGs and 2 CR2 files. No jpegs were seen. Business as usual. Then I removed the CR2s and renamed the jpegs so they had the same names as the DNGs (except for of course different extensions) and that's when Aperture saw the jpegs as separate files and saw them with bogus file sizes.
So I tested that by altering the jpeg names so that they were different from their corresponding DNGs and Aperture went back to seeing the jpegs with the correct file sizes.
Therefore, Aperture is having some difficulty with two separate files, one JPEG and the other DNG, when they both have the same name (different extensions, of course).
Try it if you have a moment. Take one raw file and convert it to DNG and place it in a folder with its corresponding jpeg. Rename both to the same name and different extensions (.dng + .jpg) and see what happens when you try to get Aperture to import. Chance are Aperture will show bogus file sizes for the jpeg.
Let me know if that's clear.
Antonio

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Jim01403, Geoff and others...I'm new here so I'll need a little time The thread is very interesting, populated by serious mature people, how refreshing! It clearly is part of what i'm experiencing and is answered answered here...thank you. My main problem is still the significant color shift between develope and library modules. I'll attach one from each so you and others can see. Unfortunately the library version is the bad one so printing is now very problematic...Note, this occurs in either single or with second monitor on the library version is displayed. I have reset virtually everything and wonder if a cache is not updating or color space is not matching? A symptom/detail worth noting, when switching to library mode, the correct image is displayed for about a second then it jumps to what you see in the examples. As if the library module starts to rendering from develope settings then jumps tback to the original inedited preview??
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Movie with stills - settings, raw, jpeg...

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