Need advice, what to add to my MBA ... a 24" ACD or buy new iMac?

I have the MacBook Air 1.8 / 128 SSD and now have the 24" ACD monitor it's a nice set up, but I can't help but think of another possible option that I may like more ...
I'm considering returning the ACD and exchanging it for the 24" iMac and I'd use the iMac along with my MBA.
I like typing on my MBA and using the trackpad, being able to move it around the office, house or desk in a second and not being tethered to the monitor is nice, I know its only two plugs but ...
Having an iMac to use along with the MBA has many benefits, the obvious is it's a separate computer, lol, ... but you can leave the MBA on it's own at all times, use them together, lots of extra storage space, also to run windows on via boot camp on the iMac etc ....
It's about $900 more, for many many more benefits. I love the 24" ACD monitor but can't help thinking of the added benefits of the iMac for not a whole lot more money mine be worth it and sort of complete my system, best of both worlds...
What would you do?

Would you buy to go with the MBA?
So far I bought the 24" ACD, I really like it.
Still I'm considering exchanging the ACD and getting the new 24" iMac. Reason being in a way I'd like to keep my Air separate and not attached to an external display, I really like typing on the Air, its Touchpad and the screen is great. True, when I hook up to the 24" ACD it's beatiful and the Apple BT keyboard is alright, but for whatever reason part of me wants to get the iMac and use the Air along side of it ...
Or, I could go all out and keep the ACD to use with my Air when I like PLUS buy the iMac. In that case I'd sell my HP desktop and 24" HP monitor I have. BUT if I did that I'd loose a benefit I'm getting from the HP desktop which is HDMI ports. This is one thing that's more of a challenge with the mac because I also hook up to a 37" Panasonic Vierra for movie watching. So my HP desktop has the 24" monitor and my 37" TV attached to it.
A lot of computers, eh? They're all used hard for our business and entertainment as well. I was cruising along fine with an x301 ... then I had to try the MBA and I'm hooked, I love that that computer! So, now with the addition of the 24" ACD I'm thinking of the iMac as well. The HP has it's quirks, non working USB ports, had to reinstall the OS a few times, so I won't mind getting rid of it. But how to hook up the iMac to the Panasonic, it has no DVI port.
From a minimalist viewpoint I could probably get by with just my Air as my main machine, and use an external hard drive for extra storage / back up. Then when I required the use of a large monitor or to run Windows App's I could use the HP desktop. In one way this 'could' be the least aggravating too, my TV already hooks up easily via HDMI, the HP monitor on the desktop is good, then just use the Air when I'm away from my desk. (Plus I have to get my wife a new pc regardless of what I do, realistically a 13" MB will suilt her, it's small/light but has the power and peripherals she needs.
From a 'maximalist' view I could keep the ACD for my Air, add the iMac as my desktop, sell the HP or give to my wife to use at her desk and get her the MBA ! PLUS replace my Linksys dual band $200 router with Time Capsule and the whole system would be complete. I'd install windows on the iMac ... is all that worth the cost and effort ... I don't know.
It's not a matter of cost, we're a low overhead busy company and I haven't redone our computer set up for some time now ...

Similar Messages

O i need antivirus software if i am going to download office 365 onto my new imac?

Do i need antivirus software if i am going to download office 365 onto my new imac?

1. This is a comment on what you should—and should not—do to protect yourself from malicious software ("malware") that circulates on the Internet and gets onto a computer as an unintended consequence of the user's actions. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the computer, or who has been able to log in to it remotely. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it.
If you find this comment too long or too technical, read only sections 5, 6, and 10.
OS X now implements three layers of built-in protection specifically against malware, not counting runtime protections such as execute disable, sandboxing, system library randomization, and address space layout randomization that may also guard against other kinds of exploits.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user. Internally Apple calls it "XProtect."
The malware recognition database used by XProtect is automatically updated; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets.
It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
As new versions of OS X are released, it's not clear whether Apple will indefinitely continue to maintain the XProtect database of older versions such as 10.6. The security of obsolete system versions may eventually be degraded. Security updates to the code of obsolete systems will stop being released at some point, and that may leave them open to other kinds of attack besides malware.
   3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been a second layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't necessarily been tested by Apple, but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. That may not mean much if the developer lives in a country with a weak legal system (see below.)
Gatekeeper doesn't depend on a database of known malware. It has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could simply ignore the consequences of distributing codesigned malware.
An App Store developer could find a way to bypass Apple's oversight, or the oversight could fail due to human error.
Apple has so far failed to revoke the codesigning certificates of some known abusers, thereby diluting the value of Gatekeeper and the Developer ID program. These failures don't involve App Store products, however.
   For the reasons given, App Store products, and—to a lesser extent—other applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed, are safer than others, but they can't be considered absolutely safe. "Sandboxed" applications may prompt for access to private data, such as your contacts, or for access to the network. Think before granting that access. Sandbox security is based on user input. Never click through any request for authorization without thinking.
4. Starting with OS X 10.8.3, a third layer of protection has been added: a "Malware Removal Tool" (MRT). MRT runs automatically in the background when you update the OS. It checks for, and removes, malware that may have evaded the other protections via a Java exploit (see below.) MRT also runs when you install or update the Apple-supplied Java runtime (but not the Oracle runtime.) Like XProtect, MRT is effective against known threats, but not against unknown ones. It notifies you if it finds malware, but otherwise there's no user interface to MRT.
5. The built-in security features of OS X reduce the risk of malware attack, but they are not, and never will be, complete protection. Malware is a problem of human behavior, and a technological fix is not going to solve it. Trusting software to protect you will only make you more vulnerable.
The best defense is always going to be your own intelligence. With the possible exception of Java exploits, all known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "Trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and the scam artists. If you're smarter than they think you are, you'll win. That means, in practice, that you always stay within a safe harbor of computing practices. How do you know when you're leaving the safe harbor? Below are some warning signs of danger.
Software from an untrustworthy source
Software of any kind is distributed via BitTorrent. or Usenet, or on a website that also distributes pirated music or movies.
Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, doesn't come directly from the developer’s website. Do not trust an alert from any website to update Flash, your browser, or anything else.
Rogue websites such as Softonic and CNET Download distribute free applications that have been packaged in a superfluous "installer."
The software is advertised by means of spam or intrusive web ads. Any ad, on any site, that includes a direct link to a download should be ignored.
Software that is plainly illegal or does something illegal
High-priced commercial software such as Photoshop is "cracked" or "free."
An application helps you to infringe copyright, for instance by circumventing the copy protection on commercial software, or saving streamed media for reuse without permission.
Conditional or unsolicited offers from strangers
A telephone caller or a web page tells you that you have a “virus” and offers to help you remove it. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
A web site offers free content such as video or music, but to use it you must install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "downloader," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one.
You win a prize in a contest you never entered.
Someone on a message board such as this one is eager to help you, but only if you download an application of his choosing.
A "FREE WI-FI !!!" network advertises itself in a public place such as an airport, but is not provided by the management.
Anything online that you would expect to pay for is "free."
Unexpected events
You open what you think is a document and get an alert that it's "an application downloaded from the Internet." Click Cancel and delete the file. Even if you don't get the alert, you should still delete any file that isn't what you expected it to be.
An application does something you don't expect, such as asking for permission to access your contacts, your location, or the Internet for no obvious reason.
Software is attached to email that you didn't request, even if it comes (or seems to come) from someone you trust.
I don't say that leaving the safe harbor just once will necessarily result in disaster, but making a habit of it will weaken your defenses against malware attack. Any of the above scenarios should, at the very least, make you uncomfortable.
   6. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was always a bad idea, and Java's developers have proven themselves incapable of implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style virus affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful.
Fortunately, client-side Java on the Web is obsolete and mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice. Forget about playing games or other non-essential uses of Java.
Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it—not JavaScript—in your browsers.
Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a task on a specific site, enable Java only for that site in Safari. Never enable Java for a public website that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, login-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a lock icon in the address bar with the abbreviation "https" when visiting a secure site.
Stay within the safe harbor, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can practically be. The rest of this comment concerns what you should not do to protect yourself.
7. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they all do more harm than good, if they do any good at all. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use one of the free security apps in the Mac App Store—nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial "anti-virus" products?
To recognize malware, the software depends on a database of known threats, which is always at least a day out of date. Research has shown that most successful attacks are "zero-day"—that is, previously unknown. Recognition-based malware scanners do not defend against such attacks.
Their design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere.
In order to meet that nonexistent threat, the software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
By modifying the operating system, the software itself may create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
Most importantly, a false sense of security makes you more vulnerable.
8. An anti-malware product from the App Store, such as "ClamXav," has the same drawback as the commercial suites of being always out of date, but it does not inject code into the operating system. That doesn't mean it's entirely harmless. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
An anti-virus app is not needed, and cannot be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful only for detecting Windows malware, and even for that use it's not really effective, because new Windows malware is emerging much faster than OS X malware. Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else.
A Windows malware attachment in email is usually easy to recognize by the file name alone. An actual example:
London Terror Moovie.avi [124 spaces] Checked By Norton Antivirus.exe
You don't need software to know that's a Windows trojan. Software may be able to tell you which trojan it is, but who cares? In practice, there's seldom a reason to use recognition software unless an institutional policy requires it. Windows malware is so widespread that you should assume it's in every unknown email attachment until proven otherwise. Nevertheless, ClamXav or a similar product from the App Store may be useful if it satisfies an ill-informed network administrator who says you must run some kind of "anti-virus" application.
The ClamXav developer won't try to "upsell" you to a paid version of the product. Other developers may do that. Don't be upsold. For one thing, you should not pay to protect Windows users from the consequences of their choice of computing platform. For another, a paid upgrade from a free app will probably have all the disadvantages mentioned in section 7.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.
10. As a Mac user you don't have to live in fear that your computer may be infected every time you install software, read email, or visit a web page. But neither should you assume that you will always be safe from exploitation, no matter what you do. The greatest harm done by security software is precisely its selling point: it makes people feel safe. They may then feel safe enough to take risks from which the software doesn't protect them. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices.

In Hongkong. I want to buy new iMac, But need to sell old one first. Where is good for sell??

Please help me.
Please give me a suggestion.
I want to buy new iMac, but need to sell old one.
About following the info.
How much can sell and where is good for sell?
Processor 2.93 GHz Intel Core i7
Total Number of Cores: 4
Processor Interconnect Speed: 4.8 GT/s
Memory 8 GB 1333 MHz DDR3
Graphics ATI Radeon HD 5750 1024 MB
Software OS X 10.8.3 (12D78)
1TB harddisk
Warranty to 02/Aug/2013
Thank you for your help.

When you sell your iMac, please remember that if you bought Mountain Lion upgrade at the app store, the license is not transferable and you need to erase the drive and reinstall the original system (which was most likely Snow Leopard?). If you don't do that, the buyer can never reinstall Mountain Lion because the license is tied to your Apple ID forever.

What is the best CD and DVD to use with my new iMac Intel?

Guys, please help. I am not great on the computers and need a bit of help and advice. Just brought a brand new iMac Intel G5. This is to replace my older but much loved iMac G4, which is very simple to use. Have had nothing but trouble with the new one which was especially brought to copy CD's and DVD's and to have a good play with. After much head scratching have just been told by Apple help desk that the new intels may not like CD-R. These disks worked fine on my old Mac, brought a new pack (100). I can copy information and burn to these disks using Disk Utility. BUT they can only be read on the Intel iMac, not on my old mac or PC at work. This is only simple word and pdf files, nothing complicated. Copying and burning DVD's even more of a nightmare. What makes and formats do you recommend that I use? I can copy to DVD+R. Your advise would be much appreciated. Many thanks, Townie1978

Processor and memory
2.0GHz Intel Core 2 Duo processor
4MB shared L2 cache at full processor speed
667MHz system bus
1GB (2x512MB) of PC2-5300 (667MHz) DDR2 memory
Two SODIMM slots support up to 3GB
Storage
160GB Serial ATA 7200-rpm hard drive
Optional 250- and 500GB Serial ATA 7200-rpm hard drives
Slot-loading 8x SuperDrive (DVD+R DL/DVD±RW/CD-RW)
- Writes DVD+R DL discs at up to 2.4x speed
- Writes DVD-R and DVD+R discs at up to 8x speed
- Writes DVD-RW and DVD+RW discs at up to 4x speed
- Reads DVDs at up to 8x speed
- Writes CD-R discs at up to 24x speed
- Writes CD-RW discs at up to 16x speed
- Reads CDs at up to 24x speed
Communications
Built-in 54-Mbps AirPort Extreme Card (802.11g standard) (2)
Built-in Bluetooth 2.0+EDR (Enhanced Data Rate) module
Built-in 10/100/1000 BASE-T Gigabit Ethernet (RJ-45 connector)
Works with 56K V.92 Apple USB Modem (sold separately)
Display
Built-in 17-inch (viewable) widescreen TFT active-matrix liquid crystal display
Millions of colours at all resolutions
Typical viewing angle:
- 140° horizontal
- 120° vertical
Typical brightness: 250 cd/m
Typical contrast ratio: 500:1
Graphics and Video
ATI Radeon X1600 graphics processor using PCI Express
128MB of GDDR3 SDRAM
Mini-DVI output port with support for DVI, VGA, S-video and composite video connections via adaptor (3)
Built-in iSight camera
Support for external display in extended desktop
- Digital resolutions up to 1920 x 1200
- Analogue resolutions up to 2048 x 1536
Support for external display in video mirroring mode
Electrical and environmental requirements
Meets ENERGY STAR requirements
Line voltage: 100-240V AC
Frequency: 50Hz to 60Hz, single phase
Maximum continuous power: 180W
Operating temperature: 10° to 35° C (50° to 95° F)
Storage temperature: -40° to 85° C (-40° to 185° F)
Relative humidity: 5% to 95% non-condensing
Maximum altitude: 3,000 m (10,000 feet)
Size and weight
Height: 43.0 cm (16.9 inches)
Width: 42.6 cm (16.8 inches)
Depth: 17.3 cm (6.8 inches)
Weight: 7 kg (15.5 pounds) (4)
Peripheral connections
Two FireWire 400 ports; 8 watts shared
Total of five USB ports: three USB 2.0 ports (up to 480 Mbps) on computer, two USB 1.1 ports on keyboard
Audio
Built-in stereo speakers
17-inch and 20-inch models
Internal 12-watt digital amplifier
24-inch model
Internal 24-watt digital amplifier
Headphone/optical digital audio output (minijack)
Audio line in/optical digital audio input (minijack)
Built-in microphone
Thats the full spec of my iMac Intel duo core, plus added memory. As per the sellers website. The bit about the superdrive is pure fantasy. Have tried to copy and burn to DVD -R, +R and -RW all go through the motions and keep you in suspense. Then you put the disc in another player and disc not recognised. Really, really upset by this.

Buying new iMac - Advices

Hello, in a few days I'll buy a new iMac, I'm already a holder of an old 2010 iMac 21,5.
I thought to remain on a 21,5 because for how expensive it can be, it is less than a 27, even if in this one there is the possibility to add RAM in future, wouldn't be bad.
I usually use iMac for Photography (Photoshop, Ligtroom, Plugins) and sometimes After Effects for very simple things.
The configuration I thought to choose is this:
Intet Core i5 quad-core a 2,9GHz Turbo Boost fino a 3,6GHz
16GB di SDRAM DDR3 a 1600MHz
Unità di memoria flash da 256GB
NVIDIA GeForce GT 750M 1GB GDDR5
do you think this configuration could be ok for what I do with the iMac?
Thanks to all of you who want to help me to decide!

That iMac as a server will either be just right, massive overkill, or far too small.
What are you planning on doing with OS X Server here? Mail? Web server? File and disk? Computes? DNS? Profile management? How much of {whatever}?
Are you planning on starting up and shutting down and reconfiguring your new iMac (as is common with a desktop Mac), or are you planning on leaving it alone and leaving it running all the time (as is the norm with servers)?
If you're working with various systems on your local network, are you using WiFi, wired gigabit, or slower wired connection? Servers serving lots of files locally will generally provide the best results with wired gigabit Ethernet.
Do you have a static IP address, or is only dynamic (DHCP) IP available from your ISP? (You'll usually want static IP, if you're going to be running a mail server, hosting external sites or similar tasks, too.) (Over the lifetime of the server, static IP connection from various ISPs can end up costing more than the entire server, too.)

Buying New iMac Advice

I'm seriously considering getting a new iMac. I've always had power macs, but cannot afford one now. My main uses would be for a small business...and some audio and movie recording. The new iMacs look to be very nice. I'm leaning towards the basic 24"'er with 4 gigs of RAM. I'd also need an external HD..1TB or so, maybe a WD or Seagate with Firewire..800 I'd guess. Just wondering if this is the best way to go, or to save a little dough and get the previous gen.....What do y'all think? Thanks!
JT

For the uses you have mentioned, the previous gen 24" imacs will more than happily do the job.
I have the 3.06GHz and it is very fast with nvidia 512mb GPU.
But if you want to future proof, that is another story.
Just buy the best you can afford, it will most likely last you for longer and you won't be left wondering what you have missed out on.
Good luck

Advice on buying New iMac vs older Technology

Hi, just want some advice.
I am in the market for a 27 inch iMac. I have 2 requirements really:
I must be able to use the iMac as a display for a docked laptop (non apple). This is my work laptop.
I want the newest tech.
I understand with Thunderbolt that only 2009/2010 models will couple up well using displayport (and i have tested this with a mates 2010 iMac).
But i also love the new iMac thats due out soon.
Is there any way I can purchase a new iMac with thunderbolt and use this with laptop. What i dont want to do is get a 2010 model and then find out that there is some convertor/adaptor/lead thats ideal for my solution meaning i could have bought the new iMac.
It might sound odd that i want a older model but using the iMac as a display for my work is a big want from me as i am using this a lot.
If there is definatley NOT a solution to the new iMacs, then i can stop drooling and look for a bargain on the 2010 models.
Thanks in advance
Barry

Any reason why 2011 or older?
2011 models are thunderbolt which wont accept a displayport input video from my non-apple PC. Only 2009/2010 models do this (as they were pre-thunderbolt).
They were rumoured to be delayed but then i have seen confirmations that they are not going to be late so theres some confusion there. But my main query is 'is there anyway i can use newer iMacs - with thunderbolt on my non-apple PC (as in using the imac as a monitor).
I have read a few posts saying its not compatible but was wanting advice/confirmation i guess that theres no convertor or box that would be a solution as i would prefer the new kit.
Thanks

Whats the right Digital Camera to show video Clips on my new iMac OS X Lion

Hi, Can anybody tell me what Type or Model of Digital Camera (with Video Clip Facility) to purchase succesfully down loading on to my brand new iMac OS X Lion?? I'm new to Apple iMac, found out that my 2 year old Samsung camera when downloading Photos and video clips, only shows the photos but not the video clips in my iPhoto folder. the clips are just shown in a black blank square!! Please HELP...Thank You

Christa,
Have you tried using iMovie for your video clips? If you aren't familiar with iMovie here is a link to the iMovie tutorials. I would think your current camera should be just fine.

Problem with old mb, need advice what mb to buy

I have a Msi Z77A-G45 Thunderbolt mb that gives my som crackling noise sound when i use the onboard soundcard or use my usb soundcard with a power full gpu, but only when i play games (usb soundcard).
Got a gigabyte Z77X D3H, guess what...... i need a ps2 (mabye an adapter could do it, but i dont have any, it shouldn't be nessery to buy a ps 2 keyboard to get acess to the bios, it has uefi bios.
Asrock extreme 4 also have a uefi bios that i am afread of will give me problems again entering bios again
Both uefi bios look the same so i think it's not much difference between those 2 bios
I want to stay under 120€ incl shipping (live in denmark)
I have tried to use my laptop and phone no anoying sound, but also with my ipg (i5 3570k and a old 8600gt both not at all using alot of power doing games), sound problems happens doing games using a powerfull gpu (lots of power usage) or using onboard soundcard.

I think you're right it sounds like an electrical sound
if you want to change the motherboard like sea dog said look at the MSI catalog to find the one that suits you the most >>HERE<<
personnally I don't know the prices ine Danemark (I buy everything in France) so if you have a link i can try to help,
if it was up to me would take the Z77A-G45-Gaming or GD65-Gaming but if you prefer the normal series i would say GD-55 or GD65 it depends on the prices
PS: for ethical matters i can't speak about other companies in the MSI Forum

I need to delete Creative Cloud software from my PC and install on a new iMac. What do I do first?

I have had a Creative Cloud membership for several years and have installed all the related software on my PC. I recently purchased an iMac and will be decomissioning my old PC. What steps do I need to take to deactivate and unistall the software on the PC so I can install on the iMac? I will be wiping the C drive in the old PC when I have moved everything I need to the Mac.
Also, I will be installing Parallels on my iMac and installing Windows 7 Ultimate as well, so the I can install Windows only programs I use that are not available for the Mac. Are there any Windows versions of the Adope Create Cloud software that don't have a Mac equivalent? Does it matter if I use virtual vs. bootcamp?
Thanks!
Scott

Scott if you are trying to install the Adobe Creative applications included with your Creative Cloud Membership then please see Install and update apps - https://helpx.adobe.com/creative-cloud/help/install-apps.html.

What is the best blu-ray writer to pair with a new iMac?

I am buying a new 27" iMac and want to be able to use and write Blu Ray discs. Can anyone tell me which are the best Mac-compatible Blu Ray Writers on the market? Also does it make any difference if the Writer is USB 3 or 2?

That is too broad. We aren't printer experts but I have my laser printers, a couple ink jets, an all in one scanner-fax-printer.
What you want to know is will it do what you need, how much it costs may be secondary (does it spend ink like it is water?) More important, support, do you need wifi printing from desktop and phone and tablet maybe.
How much you print.
I have one old laser that is better than any newer printer when it comes to doing envelopes. The all in one is the worst.
You can definitely find some in the $50-75 and might want to browse the reviews on printer oriented forum sites, check out the feedback reviews on Amazon.
I avoid HP because they have had their driver issues. I wasn't impressed by Epson but it is a good brand. I have bought Canon cameras, scanners, printers, and never been disappointed though.

What's the best color laser printer to use with my new IMac?

My HP CP1525 laser printer prints too dark. The fixes reccomended require Windows. Does anyone know of an economical color laser printer that is compatible with my IMac?

Hi, I've been prety happy with my Brother Color Lasers, & Brither has always had great OSX support...
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&sku=833879&is=REG&kwBRHL3075C W=&225=&Q=&A=details
www.brother-usa.com/lp/laser-color-printers.aspx

Whats the easiest way to move my iTunes library to my new iMac?

I have it backed up on an external firewire drive.
The 2 computers are linked via a wireless network.
Thanks
Len

Lend273 wrote:
I have it backed up on an external firewire drive.
The 2 computers are linked via a wireless network.
i would not do that wirelessly. first it is less reliable and, second, depending on the size of your lib, it may take ages. instead, connect both macs via ethernet cable or firewire (starting up the "source" Mac in target disk mode).
either drag & drop the entire iTunes folder from the source to the target or use the recommended steps here.
here's another interesting read.

Imac Basestand scratched in shipping need advice?

hi guys. last week i got my new imac i5 3.1ghz 27" in the mail.. i ordered the 2gb video card one so i had to get it from the website. I just recently noticed the base stand has 2 very minor dents in it along with another minr dent on the top along the glass. The mark on the top near the glass is very little and im assuming it was caused while installing the new video card when i ordered it. Im not very concerned about that as its very very minor and not seeable while operating the computer.
The marks or dents on the base stand are noticeable and very annoying. I called apple care and they said they could order a new base stand and have the apple store that is near me install it for free. i was told they would need to remove the glass and install it from the inside on the new imacs. After reading online many people are experienceing issues where they bring there new imacs in for service to get them returned in worse condition. Common examples are dust on the inside of screen, fingerprints on inside of screen, more marks and scratches then previous, etc...
My question is simple. Should i just live with the minor marks on the base stand and top of monitor? Should I allow apple to attempt to repair the basestand? Should i just try to return the unit all together through apples website and get a new one? Im aware alot of these machines suffer from screen bleeding in the corners and mine doesnt have it that bad. I dont want to get one in worse condition or go through all of this for nothing. What should i do? Thanks

Thanks for your comment man! I do have the original box that it came in but i do not have the original shipping box that housed the apple box. I will have to find one i suppose. Its hard to notice these things right away and sadly i only noticed them as i started using it more frequently. The screen bleed was something i noticed immediatly but I know alot of apple products suffer from this. I will contact apple and schedule a return on this. The screen bleed i can live with i guess but the marks i can not. i dont want to take it in to the apple store when its a week old for something i shouldnt have to deal with to begin with just to get it back with other issues.

Need advice on multiple imac repairs

hi all i bought my imac a few years ago
its a white intel 17 inch imac
i have been having alot of problems with it for the past 8 months
its had 3 logic boards replaced in last 7 months the most recent being 2 weeks ago
and now i am getting same problems i had
it will freeze constantly, fans go super loud, restarts by itself and now i cant even boot it
i turned off the imac after it just froze after about an hour of web browsing (no flash lol)
i already tried disconnecting power reconnecting it and nothing, no start up chime either
the past 3 times this happend it had the logic board replaced
i take care of the imac like a child lol
i keep it clean no drinks or food around it and it has all stock parts i am too scared to fiddle with upgrading parts
i am a student and took me forever to save up and buy it
it must be more then the logic board since its been replaced 3 times already
all my money goes into school so i cant buy a new imac even though i want to
i dont use it for more then 3 hours at a time and most times i will use my phone for web browsing hoping to save what life my imac has left for school work
so my question is what should i do?
take it back for repair and hope it doesnt just die completely?
or should i try and sell it for parts and hopefully make enough off them to buy new imac
sorry for long post
Message was edited by: extrafuzzyllama

Welcome to the Apple Discussions!
The Apple limited and extended warranties leave repair or replace to Apple. However, if a Mac has had 2 or 3 major repairs, which replacing a logicboard is a major repair, then the Mac should qualify for replacement with the closest similar current model, especially if it is still under warranty.
I would call Apple Care and ask for a Customer Relations agent. Explain your iMac's repair history, to which the agent should have access through its serial number, and ask them to now arrange for replacement of the iMac under the warranty agreement.
Dah•veed

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