New Battery Bad?

I just got a new battery for my Macbook on Saturday. I'm currently running on cycle 3, and the battery life it at 100%. However, for the past two cycles, the battery has only lasted about an hour and fifty minutes. The first time I charged it after getting the new battery, it lasted over three hours. What's going on?

Check all processes in your activity monitor. There is a good chance you have a process running in the background eating up your CPU processes.
When this happens on mine it is usually a rogue printer process.

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2007 15 inch MacBook Pro With Bad Battery, Bad Logic Board, Unreliable USB Ports - Good News Story?

I'm posting this to put it out there just in case someone else has had similar experiences. My MBP is a 2007 with the Intel Core 2 Duo 2.15 GHz processor running 10.6.8. I've had it since 2009, and it has been a flawless machine for me until recently.
In the last two weeks, the mouse would no longer respond to touch - it felt mushy instead of clicking. The machine also was extremely sensitive to any touch on the top of the computer. Lastly, and most frustratingly, the USB ports would randomly stop working upon waking the computer up. I use it in clamshell mode a lot, with a mac keyboard and a kensington turbo mouse. Often, the mouse would not work upon waking the computer up. Rebooting was the only solution and I was doing a lot of rebooting. This is my everything computer - work and personal - so I wanted someone to look at it.
I took it into a local business that specializes in Mac repair since it was vintage. After a day, the tech called me and said that the battery was split and that my other issues were probably logic board problems, and the logic board would be hard to find and expensive to replace. He said I might be able to use it without the battery, but that obviously would be a pain. The tech felt such pity for me that he did not even charge me the diagnostic fee.
I tried using it without the battery and the machine was extremely jittery in its response, plus the mouse button would still not work. I put the bad, split battery back in, and it did respond better (though not the mouse). I have just enough knowledge to know that electronics can behave very strangely when their batteries are bad and this one was especially bad. Against the tech's advice, I spent $69 for an Anker replacement battery from Amazon. I put it in, and all of my problems have gone away - including the mouse which now clicks just like it did 5 years ago when I bought it. It might be total coincidence, and I'm certainly not saying to anyone that if you have similar issues with your older, but much beloved MBP, that this will do the trick, but I did want to get this out there because $69 for a new battery is a lot better than >$1200 for a new machine (if you do not currently have or want to spend the money).
I do a weekly time machine backup and I will be really sad when this computer finally gives up the ghost, but since I've gotten a lot of good information from these forums, I wanted to pass this information along in the hope that it might help someone in the community. The two Steves have my undying admiration and respect.

I'm posting this to put it out there just in case someone else has had similar experiences. My MBP is a 2007 with the Intel Core 2 Duo 2.15 GHz processor running 10.6.8. I've had it since 2009, and it has been a flawless machine for me until recently.
In the last two weeks, the mouse would no longer respond to touch - it felt mushy instead of clicking. The machine also was extremely sensitive to any touch on the top of the computer. Lastly, and most frustratingly, the USB ports would randomly stop working upon waking the computer up. I use it in clamshell mode a lot, with a mac keyboard and a kensington turbo mouse. Often, the mouse would not work upon waking the computer up. Rebooting was the only solution and I was doing a lot of rebooting. This is my everything computer - work and personal - so I wanted someone to look at it.
I took it into a local business that specializes in Mac repair since it was vintage. After a day, the tech called me and said that the battery was split and that my other issues were probably logic board problems, and the logic board would be hard to find and expensive to replace. He said I might be able to use it without the battery, but that obviously would be a pain. The tech felt such pity for me that he did not even charge me the diagnostic fee.
I tried using it without the battery and the machine was extremely jittery in its response, plus the mouse button would still not work. I put the bad, split battery back in, and it did respond better (though not the mouse). I have just enough knowledge to know that electronics can behave very strangely when their batteries are bad and this one was especially bad. Against the tech's advice, I spent $69 for an Anker replacement battery from Amazon. I put it in, and all of my problems have gone away - including the mouse which now clicks just like it did 5 years ago when I bought it. It might be total coincidence, and I'm certainly not saying to anyone that if you have similar issues with your older, but much beloved MBP, that this will do the trick, but I did want to get this out there because $69 for a new battery is a lot better than >$1200 for a new machine (if you do not currently have or want to spend the money).
I do a weekly time machine backup and I will be really sad when this computer finally gives up the ghost, but since I've gotten a lot of good information from these forums, I wanted to pass this information along in the hope that it might help someone in the community. The two Steves have my undying admiration and respect.

New battery is bad - why?

I bought a new battery for my 3 year old MacBookPro. I am a teacher and only use my computer for the Internet, Word, Netflix, etc. This battery is dying within 8 hours but 6 of those hours are in stand-by - meaning I use my computer for 2 hours and leave it disconnected from a power source for 6 hours and it is in the red. It is identical to my old battery!!
When I bought the new battery, I followed the protocol and fully charged it, then let it drain, then fully charged it...
Should I make an appt at an Apple Store? Or, am I doing som

Please follow these steps and paste the resulting screen image into this thread so that we can help diagnose your battery issue.
From the Apple Menu Choose About This Mac.
On the next window click More Info…
On the next window click System Report…
On the left side should be a list. Highlight Power.
Use SHIFT-COMMAND-4 and copy this screen
Upload the resulting capture to this forum using the Camera symbol in the forum software. The screenshot should be named Screenshot with the date and time.
Here is a sample report:

Iphone has a new battery and front camera flex cable. Wont turn on and Itunes gives me error 4014 when i try to restore

So my iphone 5 was having very bad battery problems and apple said they charged $80 to which i was astonished by because my warrenty ended 2 weeks eailer. I thought maybe they would be generous and help me out but no so i took it upon myself to get a new battery and install it myself. I did that and it turns out i need a new front camera flex ribbon so i also bought that and installed it myself. Whe i was donre installing it my phone flashed the apple logo and went black front there. I tried connecting to itunes and it gives me error 4014. Will apple still fix my phone even though i opened it?(Im not under the warrenty anymore).

It is unfortunate that you chose to open the device. Apple will not touch it now. Out of Warranty replacement is no longer an option.
Buy a new device.

Time for a new battery?

I have a iPod video, I checked it's warranty date and it started in Jan. 2006, so it isn't THAT old. However, the iPod won't turn on. I charged it for at least 48 hours straight and there was still 0 battery life. After only 1 year, is it time for a new battery? And do I have to go to the Apple Store for that? And how much $ would it cost?
Thanks

You can get Apple to replace the battery, though a 3rd party authorized repair place might do it cheaper...
You could try using the iPod updater to fully restore the original settings, just in case the iPod isn't properly managing power, but you probably have a bad battery. Be sure to read Apple's documentation on battery life. It basically says keep the iPod away from heat and be sure to exercise the battery--keeping it plugged in all the time will reduce it's life. I think they say something like the ideal is using the battery all day and charging it at night. ...as long as you never fully discharge it. There's also information like how many charge cycles the battery is supposed to have, etc.

Dead ibook.... new battery...battery on moherboard???

I have an iBook 500 Mhz... it recently started having issues with the date and time wich i attributed to the dying battery that didn't hold the charge for long... one sad day it didn't turn on anymore.... which i attributed once again to the dead and discharged battery... so i bought a brand new battery from the apple store wich came in with half charge... so i plugged it a few hours ago to completely charge the battery before turning on the computer (as it said on the manual when the compter was brand new). So now i looked at the battery charge status and the same two leds are illuminated... seems like it is not charging.... and i tried to turn the computer on to no avail...
any comments or suggestions...?
does the ibook motherboard has a battery like the desktop computers? when that battery (which among other things holds the date and time) dies the computers don't turn on... could that be the case here?
Thanks for your help...

Hi, and welcome to Apple Discussions.
Does the adapter charge the battery? Does the adapter power the iBook?
Have you tried resetting the PMU?
In our experience here, if there is a problem with the dc-in board, the iBook will not run on the AC adapter, nor will the adapter charge the battery. The iBook will only run from a charged battery. If the battery charges and/or the iBook runs on the adapter, then it is likely not the dc-in board.
The same symptoms can happen with a bad adapter (no charging, not running on the adapter).
This doesn't sound like what is happening with yours, however.
There is a capacitor on the logic board which maintains the date and time settings. That capacitor could be malfunctioning, or it could be a malfunctioning PMU (also a part of the logic board).

Question about using new battery in old Powerbook

I have a pre-intel Powerbook G4, and the battery is pretty much toast (lasts about 15 minutes now). I have ordered a new battery for it, and I have this question about using it:
Am I smarter to keep the new strong battery out of the PB most days (as I usually work with it plugged in at home) and just pop it in when I know I will be out surfing on batteries? Or is it just as good living in my laptop 24/7 and only occasionally being called upon to do its job?
Current bad Battery Information below:
Battery Installed: Yes
First low level warning: No
Full Charge Capacity (mAh): 1144
Remaining Capacity (mAh): 1115
Amperage (mA): 0
Voltage (mV): 12387
Cycle Count: 281
thanks folks, Shereen

Hi, Shereen. Every Powerbook battery wants to be used — drained and then recharged — at least every couple of weeks. If you've always used your Powerbook on AC power nearly all the time, and not followed that pattern of discharging and recharging the battery every week or two, it's possible that your use habits have shortened the lifespan and prematurely diminished the capacity of your old battery. Of course it's also possible that your battery is merely old, as a battery's capacity also diminishes with age regardless of how it's used. You didn't say how old the battery is in years, so this may or may not be an issue. I mention it only because it can be an issue.
For general information on handling a battery for the longest possible lifespan, see this article. My advice on the basis of that article and long experience reading these forums is that it would be OK to do as you propose, but I doubt that you'd derive any significant benefit from it. You would still want to be sure of putting the new battery through a charge/discharge cycle every week or two, even if you didn't have a reason to use the Powerbook away from home or your desk, because sitting unused outside the computer is just as bad for a battery as sitting unused inside it. And you should never remove the battery from your computer when it's completely or almost completely discharged and let it sit that way any longer than a day or two.
Message was edited by: eww

Where is the best place to buy a new battery?

I have a G4 PowerBook, 15", that needs a new battery. Where is the best placeto buy one?
Does a new battery still require conditioning?

janesprando wrote:
I checked out a few other sites and theirs are much less. What "pitfalls" shoud I be aware of before buying? I know warranty would be one of them.
Jane
I can't say for sure what the indicators of a reputable other source are. That being said, there are lots of offers out there for batteries that are (take your pick) cheap knockoffs, actually used batteries that show up with many cycles reporting, batteries that do not communicate with the OS or SMU/PMU at all, etc. There are anecdotal reports of batteries going kerplunk within months of shipping. So, first make sure that the site is reputable. Second, scour the web for references to the site to see is there are many "I got taken" posts. Finally, search this discussion thread for "powerbook battery" and check for the anecdotal information I was referring to.
As I noted above, I have been running an OWC battery for about a year now without a problem and I have had other good dealings with them. You might ask in this thread if anyone has had good results or bad with a candidate vendor.

Need Help Buying New Battery...

Hello, after three years of consistent portable use, I believe it's time to replace my battery--- which now only gets about 15-20 minutes off a full charge.
Obviously I'd like to avoid paying $140 for a new battery from Apple. I'd like some advice on what to look for when buying a 'new' battery from a third party (like on ebay).
I'm using a 15" aluminum powerbook g4.
A few things I'm concerned about.
1. How do I know the battery was produced after the recall? One auction says this: "This battery was produced after the Apple Battery Recall The serial number is: 6N638LN4THUC." Is that legitimate? Can you tell from the serial number? Correct me if I'm wrong, but if I buy a recallable battery from a third party I'm not eligible for a replacement through Apple.
2. If the battery is un-used, i.e. "new" but has been sitting on a shelf for a year, will it's charge-life be effected? I've heard that all lith-ion batteries deteriorate whether they're in use or not.
3. Is there anything else I should be weary of when buying a battery from a third-party?
thanks!

1) If the auction says it's AFTER the recall, and you don't trust them, ask the seller if they will send you a photo of the serial number. If they're a reputable/honest seller, they'll be glad to do so. Then, you can look up the serial number to confirm whether or not it falls under the recall at: [https://support.apple.com/ibook_powerbook/batteryexchange>
**if you get a recalled battery, you are allowed up to three battery replacements for your PowerBook, regardless if it's under warranty or not. You have to provide them with the serial no. of your PowerBook (for tracking purposes), and then with your machine registered, you can send up to three "bad" batteries and get three new ones in return. (So, if you buy your battery on eBay, or wherever you get it, you can do three maximum... Apple doesn't record battery serial numbers--to my knowledge--and tie them to specific PowerBooks, or owner's machines for that matter).
2) If a battery is unused, the charge life won't necessarily be affected, depending on how long it's been on the shelf. Usually, one year won't affect it. After that, it must be charged again before re-storage. You can find out about that process here: [http://www.apple.com/batteries/notebooks.html]
3) When buying a battery from a third party on eBay (whether it's Apple OEM or not, but compatible), make sure they have a return policy. Also check their feedback. That's usually a good sign. I don't recommend buying third-party, non Apple OEM, batteries in the first place. The only one I'd recommend is the "NuPowr" line. But if you do buy third-party batteries that aren't used and are new Mac compatible ones... kind of like how you can buy third-party batteries for you camcorder or digital camera or cell phone, but they're not made by the OEM but are still brand new ...make sure you buy it from a reputable company or, if on eBay, a reputable "Power Seller."
And just for some info, you can read my posting here (though for 12-inch PowerBooks, gets across the same idea) for anyone looking for a battery replacement:
http://discussions.apple.com/message.jspa?messageID=5955722
Message was edited by: Pismo 900
The italicized section above was done to separate/emphasize the remark, but is not a direct quote from Apple or such.

Should I buy a new battery from a third party vendor?

Hello,
I am totally new to this portion of support and to the world of laptops so please bear with me for a moment. I don't think I need a new battery yet but I did some research on-line and the general consensus seems to be that Apple and batteries don't mix. Should I go with a 3rd party battery? I want to have a spare in case I need it.
Thank you in advance for your advice.

If you don't need a spare battery now, there is little reason to get one. LiIon batteries deteriorate a small amount whether you use it or not, so the common wisdom goes. You can buy replacements online overnight if you have no store nearby, so I see little reason to have spares on hand unless absolutely critical. I would have no problem with Apple or Newertech Nupower batteries myself, but even they can go bad at variable times. A 6 month (Apple, I think) or 1 year warranty (Newertech) is about all you can expect. I would question others, especially ones that are too cheap. Counterfeits are very easy to make.

Criteria for new battery and case

So I went to my local authorized apple repair place today and talked for quite a while to a very nice genius who left me more confused than ever about how bad a battery needs to be to warrant replacement. There seem to be no clear criteria.
What my battery does is vacillate between believing it has 30% of its original capacity left after 142 cycles and 80%. It lasts about an hour to an hour and a half on battery with bluetooth and airport off and the screen dim, and lately it has begun shutting off suddenly while on battery power.
When I visited the store today, it happened to believe it had 78% of its original capacity left, and it didn't shut off while he was watching it. Apparently 78% capacity was not bad enough to warrant replacement, because he asked if I could either leave the macbook with him for testing, or come back and show him what happens, if I can figure out what triggers the changes in capacity or the sudden shut-off. He said that no log would show a sudden shut-off like I was describing, so he would have to see it himself.
This left me pretty confused, since I thought that even the 78% was low after 142 cycles compared to what other people were reporting. I wonder if there are any objective criteria so that we can KNOW if our batteries are among those that need replacing.
As to the case, I have better news. Mine is one of those cases that has cracked very near the edge, under the right-hand magnet. After examining the rest of the case to make sure it showed no evidence of dents or scratches to suggest it had been dropped, he agreed right away to replace the case and has ordered a new one for me. He seemed to know of the problem and of Apple's willingness to replace such cases.
So that leaves me this weekend trying to figure out when and why my macbook shuts down when it's on battery power so I can reproduce it for the genius ....weird!

I had the same problem with my computer shutting down at 30 minutes left on the battery. You might be better off calling the number in the update. I explained to them the problem and I had a new battery two days later and then you just send the old battery back. No cost.
If you go back to the store ask to speak to the manager. Sounds like you got a genius that is not to bright. If you know when you battery is going to shut off your computer you could have enough on your battery to start it up and after a few minutes when it reaches that point it shuts down.
Mine was always at 30 minutes. You should not have to jump through hoops since this is a known problem.
Mort

Why would new battery not charge?

I have an iPhone 5 with a 1 year history of good behavior. I recently transferred my Sony-manufactured battery (date code=08/2014) to my daughter's iPhone 5 so that she could make an outbound airplane flight with a functioning phone.
There was evidence that daughter's battery had died, not been subjected to a bad or uncertified charger. It would not charge on my known good chargers. Her Lightning port was not full of lint. After I transferred my good battery to her phone, her phone worked fine and she was on her way.
I discarded her suspect battery and installed a new one in my phone. Acquired from a well known supplier of batteries, t was a Sony-manufactured battery with a date code nearly identical to mine. My phone booted up fine and showed 45% cell charge. As the hours passed, the state of charge gauge indicated showed a battery of normal endurance.
However, at the end of the day this new battery will not accept a charge in my phone.
I am using the same known good chargers that I used previously. I am an experienced iPhone disassembler. My Lightning port is not "linted-up". I admit that Apple's fine-pitch PCB connectors are a challenge even for experienced disassemblers but I believe that this battery transplant went OK.
Any ideas?
If I did, in fact, damage the battery connector during transplant, wouldn't the phone have squawked error messages before refusing to charge. There were no error messages or hints that the battery transplant had problems.

jimolson wrote:
I have an iPhone 5 with a 1 year history of good behavior. I recently transferred my Sony-manufactured battery (date code=08/2014) to my daughter's iPhone 5 so that she could make an outbound airplane flight with a functioning phone.
There was evidence that daughter's battery had died, not been subjected to a bad or uncertified charger. It would not charge on my known good chargers. Her Lightning port was not full of lint. After I transferred my good battery to her phone, her phone worked fine and she was on her way.
I discarded her suspect battery and installed a new one in my phone. Acquired from a well known supplier of batteries, t was a Sony-manufactured battery with a date code nearly identical to mine. My phone booted up fine and showed 45% cell charge. As the hours passed, the state of charge gauge indicated showed a battery of normal endurance.
However, at the end of the day this new battery will not accept a charge in my phone.
I am using the same known good chargers that I used previously. I am an experienced iPhone disassembler. My Lightning port is not "linted-up". I admit that Apple's fine-pitch PCB connectors are a challenge even for experienced disassemblers but I believe that this battery transplant went OK.
Any ideas?
If I did, in fact, damage the battery connector during transplant, wouldn't the phone have squawked error messages before refusing to charge. There were no error messages or hints that the battery transplant had problems.
So, to clarify, you've opened up the iPhone, and replaced the battery yourself?
Are you an Apple Authorized Service Technician?
Apple doe snot supply batteries to third-parties. Any iPhone battery you acquired is either:
A) Counterfeit
B) Stolen
C) Salvaged from another unit.
Additionally, unless you are an AAST and were using an Apple-supplied battery, your device warranty and support is permanently voided.

Can I change a new battery for my MacBook Pro 15' Retina? How?

Can I change a new battery for my MacBook Pro 15' Retina? How?

Hi!
About a month ago, my MBPr 15", mid 2012 (Model Identifier10,1) showed, at first, Battery Service warning and on the next day X over the battery icon with Battery Not Available message in the status. MBP would run only and while the charger was plugged in, plug led would be always green, when connected. Battery test third party sw would not detect the battery, any longer.
Replacing upper case with battery/keyboard/trackpad, as per Apple, in my country was too expensive, over 1000 USD, did't make any sense to me, so I've chosen DIY option (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pLhHSIej9fs) with all necessary precautions like tools, ESD protection grounded pad in place and ordered "new" replacement battery from Hong Kong on Ebay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/400699766989?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STR K%3AMEBIDX%3AIT).
Yesterday I came in new packing/sealed, I installed it, plugged the power cable on, plug led would turn green and then orange, I thought it's ok, but once system booted, I saw again X over battery icon and "Battery Not Available". I checked all the hints on internet, tried several times SMC and EPRON resets, no success. I filed complaint to Ebay supplier, he replied that battery undergone test prior the shipment, but ready for return and refund.
So, I can make another try and buy the battery from Ebay but what if the problem is with my logic board? From one hand charger plug led lights orange when connected to MBP, on another hand System doesn't see the battery at all: No battery in the System info/Hardware/Power. it works absolutely fine when plugged-in to charger. I ran extended AHT (over pressed "D" key while powering on) twice with No Problem in return. So, my question is does it ultimately mean that Logic Board and power circuits are all fine and the whole thing is about "new bad" battery? I there any way to entirely test Logic board and narrow down problem origin?
Thank you for attention in advance,
Nurlan

What to do with a new battery..?

I recently got a new battery because my old one went bad. Am I suppose to charge it until full, then leave it on full for a certain period of time? Or can I just start using battery power now. I heard there is a special way to process your new battery once you put it in your computer.

Have a look at this Apple page on notebook batteries.Especially the section on calibrating your battery for longer life.

Lombard won't recognize new battery

After years of inactivity I wanted to give my old Lombard G3 to my little child so I bought new battery and new AC charger.
Now the problem is that Lombard won't recognize the new battery at all. Red cross on battery icon on top and empty slot in strip below.
I reset the Power manager as indicated here: http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=14449
Also running Battery Reset 2.0 doesn't give me any results.
What can I do now?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Fabio
Message was edited by: fabiosko

fabiosko,
I'll just throw out some additional suggestions and comments.
-Does the battery have any charge, i.e. do any of the LEDs light up when you press the test button?
-Although it should make no difference, reset the PRAM also:
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=2238
-Is your new power adapter 45 watts or more?
-Try the battery in the right bay.
-Allow the battery to sit in the powerbook overnight with the power adapter connected. Sometimes a non-charging battery will begin to charge again and it may also apply to a battery that is not recognized.
-Do you know someone with a Lombard or Pismo with whom you could swap batteries?
-The reputation of third-party replacement batteries is not the highest. You may have a bad battery and will need to exchange it.

New Battery Bad?

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