Nokia N8 camera - noisy photos in low light

I am dissapointed that N8 camera take very noisy photos in low light conditions. in the night the photos looks horible, but not only in the night, even if you are inside and there is no very much light then the photos are noisy.
I had the same problems with my old N73. After that I had a N95 8Gb and this phone tooks good photos even in the night. Now with N8 I am back to N73 noisy photos I can say that N95 8Gb photos are better than N8 photos, without exagerating.
Is there a camera application that I can use instead of  original camera appl from Nokia in order to take better photos? Otherwise I would need to change my phone again 

I tried the Camera Update from Betalabs and also I took the CameraPro 2.2 from Store. No changes, same noisy photos in Low light. CameraPro is a useless application, no improvements to original Camera appl from Nokia and has some bugs. Maybe only the Antishake option is good, since if using the dedicated button to take photos then sometime are blurred.
I think the LowLevelDriver for Camera is the problem in N8 photos, so no application can solved this. I read an article from Nokia and they said that intentionally changed the Camera behavior in order to have very good photos in good light, this causing noisy photos in low light. I can not understand this. If I want very good photos I would use a DSLR, but I want good photos in all conditions, like with N95 for example.

Similar Messages

  • Tips for avoiding "noisy" images in low-light

    Hi all,
    I noticed that there are a lot of users here who are complaining of noisy images especially in low-light. I'm not a professional photographer or anything but I have been playing a lot with the camera of my Xperia Z1 and I did have noisy images also at first.
    Here is my tip: Use these settings:
    Go to Manual Mode.
    Shoot in either 8MP 4:3 or 16:9 (don't worry about not making use of the 20MP, because its still doing oversampling to improve the quality of the 8MP image by making use of the whole 20MP sensor).
    Set Stabilizer to off
    ISO to Auto (if you prefer more detailed images, set ISO to a lower value but take note of the exposure of the image and that there is a chance of motion blur due to the longer shutter speed necessary to capture low light at low ISO)
    WB Auto (or your preference).
    With the setting I use above, I've seen improvements on low-light capability (indoors, artificial lighting, or night outdoor scene for example) and quality of my camera pictures. Note though that this will not be applicable for extreme low-light. Its very normal to capture really noisy images when shooting in extreme low-light (even my dedicated compact camera has troubles too).
    Here is my theory why its taking noisy images by default. In Superior Auto, I analyzed the EXIF data of the pictures I've shot. It seems that Superior Auto is really excessive in bumping up the ISO (thus resulting in more noisy images) to compensate for having a faster shutter speed (reduced motion blur). Thus what you get is a noisy image that is bright and freezes the motion. For example, test it out that in Superior Auto, even minute movements of the phone will trigger the Sports Mode (running man icon near the button) prioritizing a faster shutter speed at the cost of a higher ISO.
    Another reason I have for turning off the Stabilizer in Manual Mode is the same. In contrast to Steady Shot used in recording movies (sensor based shift to compensate for handshake movements), I think the Stabilizer option basically just bumps up the ISO also to compensate for handshake movements. I"m not entirely 100% sure but so far, I've been satisfied with taking images with the Stabilizer Off.
    Please feel free to test it out and report the results if there have been improvements. I'm still testing it out too! One of the things I wish for Sony to put in the Camera App are just these 3 things: 
    1.) Holding Shutter Key will open the Camera app with the LAST CONFIGURED SETTINGS
    2.) Maximum ISO can be set in Manual Mode
    3.) Scene AUTO mode for Manual Mode (I know it might be redundant but it would be nice to have Auto mode for 4:3 orientation images).
    Again, hope to hear from others what are their settings or if they notice any improvements in images captured.
    Thanks!

    Hi, there is a FAQ related to this topic.
    http://talk.sonymobile.com/t5/FAQ/Capture-better-photos-in-low-light-conditions/m-p/395397#U395397
    Don't forget to mark correct answer as Accepted Solution.
    If you find the post helpful, press Kudos.

  • Camera wont take a photo - warning "Low light" on screen

    The camera and phone have been working fine*, until today when I get the error message on screen "low light" when trying to take a picture.  It is being used in a room with normal lighting.
    The warning only goes away when I point the camera directly at a light bulb.
    The camera refuses to take a photo, regardless whether the warning is displayed or not.
    Changing from auto <-> night mode has no effect either.
    Any suggestions?
    *Apart from a few weeks ago, the video zoom in/out stopped working, although it did take photos and videos ok.

    Hello Mark,
    Welcome to the BlackBerry Support Community.
    Sorry to hear about the issue you are experiencing with the Camera application on your BlackBerry smartphone.
    Please reinsert your battery as a test. If this fails to resolve the issue, perform a reload or upgrade the BlackBerry Device Software. For more information on this procedure see the following article:
    How to update or reinstall BlackBerry Device Software using BlackBerry Desktop Software - http://www.blackberry.com/btsc/KB03901
    Let us know if this helps.
    -FB
    Come follow your BlackBerry Technical Team on Twitter! @BlackBerryHelp
    Be sure to click Kudos! for those who have helped you.
    Click "Accept as a Solution" for posts that have solved your issue(s)!

  • Yellow photos in low light

    My pictures taken in low light (indoor), just one small bulb for example gets yellowish. I tried to change the white balance but for no good. Is it just something I have to accept or what?

    But of I look at photos taken with iPhone 5s for example, they're much more natural in the colors. Therefor I don't think that the bulb is the problem. I thought that my z1c was the best to take low light photos when I bought it almost one year ago. But oh no!

  • Capture better photos in low-light conditions

    The camera in your device provides several modes and settings to help you take photos or record videos in most conditions. When the lighting conditions are poor, refer to the following tips:
    Use Normal capturing mode instead of Scene recognition capturing mode. Once you are in Normal capturing mode, use the Party scene setting and/or the Multi autofocus setting for better results.
    Use Fill flash mode.
    Use the Infinity focus setting when recording videos.
    Use the camera key correctly. Press the camera key halfway down to activate the auto focus setting. Press the camera key fully down to take a photo when the focus is locked correctly.
    Your subject should be as still as possible while you are taking a photo.
    Your camera should remain as steady as possible.
    To use Normal capturing mode
    Activate the camera.
    Hold the phone in landscape orientation.
    Drag the slider button at the top right of the screen accordingly so that the still camera is selected.
    Tap the capturing mode icon at the top left of the screen, then select Normal.
    To use the Party scene setting
    Make sure the camera is in Normal capturing mode.
    Press the Menu key, then select Scenes.
    Tap Party.
    To use the Multi auto focus setting
    Make sure the camera is in Normal capturing mode.
    Press the Menu key, then select Focus mode.
    Tap Multi auto focus.
    To use Fill flash mode
    Activate the camera.
    Hold the phone in landscape orientation.
    Drag the slider button at the top right of the screen accordingly so that the still camera is selected.
    Press the Menu key, then select Flash.
    Tap Fill flash.
    To use the Infinity focus setting
    Activate the camera.
    Hold the phone in landscape orientation.
    Drag the slider button at the top right of the screen accordingly so that the video camera is selected.
    Press the Menu key, then select Focus mode.
    Tap Infinity.
     - Community Manager Sony Xperia Support Forum
    If you're new to our forums make sure that you have read our Discussion guidelines.
    If you want to get in touch with the local support team for your country please visit our contact page.

    The FAQ is general and available options can differ depending on what phone you have.
    When using manual mode for video recording in Xperia Z1 you can select between Single auto focus, Face detection and Object tracking. Which one you should select depends on what your filming.
     - Official Sony Xperia Support Staff
    If you're new to our forums make sure that you have read our Discussion guidelines.
    If you want to get in touch with the local support team for your country please visit our contact page.

  • N73 crashes when taking photo under low light cond...

    My N73 crashes almost always when I take photos under bad conditions, i.e. when it is very dark, or when the camera is too close to an object to focus. I am aware that it sounds a bit improbable, but it has happened at least 20 times now, and never under good conditions.
    The symptoms are variable: The phone stops reacting to keys, sometimes entirely, sometimes I can only switch it off and on, sometimes only the active standby works.
    Sometimes it helps sliding the camera open and shut repeatedly, then the camera software (which I think is to blame) shuts down.
    Sometimes I can only remove the battery to reset it.
    Does anybody else notice the same?
    It is not really reproducible, but it happens too darn often.
    PS: My phone firmware is V3.0638.0.0.2 (Vodafone branded).
    PPS: Please don't tell me to use the phone only in bright sunshine.

    02-Nov-200709:10 PM
    korngear wrote:
    For PS: Upgrade your phone FW.
    Hm.. Doesn't seem possible. According to http://europe.nokia.com/softwareupdate I have the latest FW. I suspect there are more recent updates for non-Vodafone-enslaved phones, but I am unsure whether (let alone how) I can use them.

  • Multi-Cam Color correcting and low light

    I have scanned the forums and youtube but am having a hard time trying to figure this out.
    I was filmed in Las Vegas at an event by two different cameras. My Sony Z5u (front shot) and a similar looking and priced Cannon using tape.
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    Hours 2 - 6 the lights came down for power point and the video has this orange brown hue that looks like crap.
    And ideas on how i might make it look a bit better?
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    It's a manual thing.

  • Camera/Flash issue in low light conditions

    I have an Xperia Z2 updated with android 4.4.4. When I try to take pictures at night I just get purple photos. This started just a few weeks ago out of nowhere. Let me say that the lens is not dirty nor blocked by anything. I don't have a case. I have just restored the phone today with Sony PC Companion and still the same issue. Any solutions for this...?
    Solved!
    Go to Solution.

    anytime 
    "I'd rather be hated for who I am, than loved for who I am not." Kurt Cobain (1967-1994)

  • Nokia N82 camera sample photo!!!!!!

    http://www.symbian-freak.com/images/news/07/11/n82/07112007011_l.jpg

    Okey i uploaded a pictures
    Attachments:
    05-01-11_1048.jpg ‏27 KB
    05-01-11_1049.jpg ‏20 KB

  • Nokia X6 Camera in Low-Light?

    Currently have a Nokia N82 with Xenon flash which I'm finding hard to replace due to the distinct lack of xenon-equipped phones around these days, although the poor thing does now appear to be dying after over two years of heavy use (although a new battery may be enough).
    Just wondering how the dual-LED flash copes with taking photos in low light conditions on the X6? Is it good enough to take pics of friends in a bar type thing? To be honest the xenon flash on the N82 still has nothing on a proper digital camera, but at least you can see stuff, unlike on most single-LED camera phones I've tried.
    Any other thoughts on the X6 welcome, too. Tempted to buy one today!

    Camera stores used to sell hand held flash "guns" that were independent of cameras. I'm sure such things still exist.It would probably be easier to use a proper camera, though. I have a Sony digital P&S that takes very nice pictures which are easily transferred to the iPad using the Camera Connection Kit.

  • Low-light Cameras

    Hey Everyone,
    As camera and sensor technology has advanced, so has the ability of digital cameras to record in lower light without an external light source. In the past if you wanted to capture a useable image in low-light conditions you would have to use flash, strobes, or in a pinch you could use hot-lights.
    Sensors have really come a long way. Modern Backlit CMOS sensors allow far more light to actually reach the photosites that capture the image, and because of this the data needs far less amplification. These types of sensors should produce images with far less digital noise while shooting at higher sensitivities. Over the last couple of years I have seen cameras with much higher selectable sensitivity to light (this is called the camera’s ISO).
    Another feature that’s become better-and-better  over the years, which also helps out in shooting in low-light situations, is image stabilization. Basically Image stabilization shifts either the lens elements, or the sensor itself, to compensate for any movement on the part of the shooter. This really does help out while shooting in low-light.
    If you really intend on shooting a lot in low-light the best thing you can do is get a camera with the above features, but also one that uses a large sensor. While most point-and-shoot cameras do a much better job in low-light than they used to, there really is no substitution for a physically large sensor of a DSLR or Compact System Camera when shooting under low light levels.
    Happy Shooting,
    Allan|Senior Social Media Specialist | Best Buy® Corporate
     Private Message

    Allan-BBY wrote:
    If you really intend on shooting a lot in low-light the best thing you can do is get a camera with the above features, but also one that uses a large sensor. While most point-and-shoot cameras do a much better job in low-light than they used to, there really is no substitution for a physically large sensor of a DSLR or Compact System Camera when shooting under low light levels.
    I think the biggest low-light accomplishment is how modern cameras are able to capture starlight and galaxies with the right lenses.
    While sensor size is important, choosing lenses with large apertures also helps to minimize sensor noise.  Look for lenses with f/2.8, f/1.8, or f/1.4 designations.
    Of course you can just cheat.  Nikon's SB-910 or a Quantum bare-bulb works wonders in challenging light conditions.
      http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Nikon+-+Speedlight+SB-​910+Flashlight/4675495.p?id=1218505325342&skuId=46​...
    Note, many compact cameras are now shipping with larger sensors.
      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e8dVE9gu96A

  • Best camera for low light and sports

    have the sx200is
    looking for a newer camera for sports and low light shots

    The challenge with sports is that you are REALLY pushing the camera gear to it's limits.  Fast action requires fast shutter speeds.  But fast shutter speeds demand a lot of light and only outdoor games played during the daytime have that.  Indoor games or games played under field lighting at night generally do not have the kind of lighting needed to shoot with fast shutter speeds -- not the kind of shutter speeds needed to freeze action.  So this ends up demanding a camera with excellent ISO performance and lenses with very low focal ratios so they can collect a LOT more light when the shutter is open.  This gear is expensive.
    You will want to consider a reasonable budget depending on what you can afford and the needs of the specific sports.  
    Are these indoor or outdoor sports? If outdoors, are these played during the day or are they night games?
    The "best" camera for sports and low light is the EOS-1D X.  It has phenominal low-light performance, has an amazing focus system,  and can shoot at 12 frames per second.  But it's about $6800 for the "body only" and then you still need lenses.  I'm guessing this is probably not what you had in mind.  But if money were not a constraint... this would be the one to go for.
    The 5D III is another amazing camera for low light performance and and also has an amazing focusing system (largely the same as the 1D X) can shoot at 6 frames per second, and only costs $3500... again, that's the "body only".  Still probably not what you had in mind.
    The 70D has an extremely good focus system (though not as good as the 5D III and 1D X), not quite as good as low light (but pretty good and much better than a point & shoot camera) and shoots at 7 frames per second (1 fps faster than  5D III) and it only costs $1200 for the body only.
    The T5i will be noticeably less expensive than the 70D... a good (but not extremely good) focusing system and 5 frames per second, but the body and 1 kit lens combined is about $850 but that wont a lens suitable for use shooting sports so you'll still need to invest in more appropriate lenses.
    When shooting action photography in low light, what you _really_ want is a lens that can collect a lot more light than the average lens for that very brief moment when the shutter is open.  Such a lens can allow you to use a faster shutter speed to help freeze those action shots.  But *which* lens you use depends on the sport.  
    For low-light sports, these would ideally be f/2.8 zoom lenses... but f/2.8 zoom lenses are not cheap.  Canon's EF 70-200 f/2.8L IS USM (ideal for most indoor sports and outdoor sports IF the action is happening close to you) is about $2500.  Sigma's lens is about half that price.  But if you're covering action on a large athletic field and the players are far away, they'll still be small.  Sigma makes a 120-300mm f/2.8 zoom for sports... for the low low price of only $3600.
    Scott Kelby does a video to talk about sports photography and he discusses the equipment used and why... and basically says if you want the gear for shooting sports, you basically need a suitcase full of money.
    Tim Campbell
    5D II, 5D III, 60Da

  • 5d mark III focusing slowly/etc. in low light wedding receptions

    I've been using 5d2s for a long time because I am simply not rich enough (and I don't want the huge body either) to buy 1d-series cameras for work. I've shot about 20 weddings with the 5d3 since I bought it, and I finally sent it in to Canon the other day for an autofocus checkup.
    My #1 issue is reception autofocus. My 5d2s beat my 5d3 at reception focusing (with 580EX AF assist always used). They are more reliable for AI servo and faster for one-shot.
    My 5d3 struggles to acquire in one-shot, taking probably close to 2 real seconds (it feels like forever) to establish and confirm a lock on a static subject during wedding receptions with lenses like 24L II, 35L, 50L. In contrast, in the exact same lighting conditions and with the same lenses and flash AF assist, my 5d2s all snap right to focus and I click the shutter within about 1 second or less, getting an in-focus image about 90-95% of the time.
    With AI servo, the 5d3 is just inferior to my 5d2s in low light. I was hoping, one day, to get a camera that would give me the ability to track subjects well during processionals/grand entrances/reception dances using the outer points, because I'm pretty tired of being stuck with center-point framing for these situations. I thought the 5d3 was supposed to solve that problem, but in fact it took a step backward in low light AI servo accuracy and locking. My 5d2s (center point) both acquire faster and track better in low light than my 5d3 (center point also).
    After sending the 5d3 in to get it checked (and so they could charge me $175+), I got a nice copy of the page saying that the camera focus in low light is blah blah etc. etc. use AF assist (which I had noted I did) and the overall feeling was that they were very condescending and disregarding of my equipment issue. To me, a $3500 camera should perform better than a camera that is now worth ~$1300...and so the 5d3 performs arguably better in GOOD light, simply because it has more focus points to choose from which are generally pretty accurate - in GOOD light. However, it performs worse in reception light. Wedding photographers will understand what I mean by reception light.
    My 5d2 AI servo is not useless during receptions, but my 5d3 AI servo struggles more in the same reception lighting. My 5d2 one-shot locks quickly and pretty accurately during receptions, while my 5d3 takes significantly longer in one-shot to lock, and sometimes it gives me pretty wild misses, during receptions. Always using AF assist with 580EX, and btw the 5d3 firmware is the latest version (1.2.3 at this time). The camera simply focuses slower during receptions than my 5d2s, and AI servo misses more. 
    I also don't like that AF points don't light up before focusing, but this is less important to me than a fast, responsive AF system for wedding receptions. I have had to put away the 5d3 on multiple occasions and bring out a second 5d2 for wedding receptions just so I can get good dancing photos, good speech/toasting photos, etc., before all the key moments went by and ohhhh too late, my focus system didn't lock in time...
    I have been having this issue with 5d3 performance since I bought it close to a year ago. I do wedding photography primarily, and I have quite a bit of experience shooting weddings and dealing with the various demands of weddings.
    Most of my AF experience is with single point, with only a few experiences using the expansion settings.  I have never had trouble locking or tracking with single point with my 5d2s as long as there was enough light to do it, and being used to that I expected the 5d3 to be able to perform at LEAST comparably.  It does not.
    At this point, this critical functional limitation of the 5d3 has left me very dissatisfied with the camera.  I thought upgrades were supposed to do everything just as well or better than the previous version, but this newest camera has shown me that more AF points definitely does NOT mean a better (or even comparable) AF system in every situation.  Clearly something was traded off when they added a ton of cross-type points, like low light acquisition speed and being able to see your AF points illuminate when you start AF.
    I've been playing around with Nikon equipment for a while and am beginning to think that is my forced alternative.  I don't like the things I hear about Nikon customer support, and I don't really like the direction they are going with some of their releases or how they handled function issues (focus issues with off-center focus points, oil on sensors, etc.) but Canon isn't innocent of that stuff either.  And if I use an all-Nikon setup then I will have excellent dynamic range at low ISOs as well.  Too bad Nikon doesn't have the glass I like best (35L, 85L, etc.)...but compromises must be made in some direction, and I'm intensely frustrated with Canon's latest cameras' focusing systems in low light.
    It's very specific, mind you: Low light performance is inferior to my 5d2s.  In good light, my 5d3 has better AF flexibility for tracking with outer points, and the one-shot focus acquisition is comparable to my 5d2s.

    This singular issue of the 5d3 has ensured that I will never buy another one (unless they fix that, which they won't).  Unlike what I did with the 5d2 (upgraded to 5d2s towards the end of their product cycle), the 5d3 is too impaired for low light photography for me to be able to replace my 5d2s with 5d3s.  I can only hope the next generation will NOT have the same low light focus delays...otherwise I might have to buy a few 6Ds just to keep up with more current tech (since my 5d2s will wear out eventually).  I've heard they don't have the same doublechecking delay, but they also have other limits that I dislike (1/4000 ss, 1/180 flash sync, no pc sync port, SD memory only) and will have to work around.

  • The ipad mini does not have flash for pictures. Is there an app that can add flash for low light?

    Since the ipad mini does not have flash for taking photos in low light situations I'm wondering if there is an app that one can use with flash?

    Since there's no flash mechanism on the device, I doubt there's an app. You can't control what isn't there.

  • Low light camera issue

    http://youtu.be/ibR_mFxOIuw
    when i take a low light picture my screen flashes white.  is this normal? it happens in night scene. also  i thought this camera could take images in darkness  but i can barely take pictures is low light. my subjects are very dark. My i phone 4s does a better job side by side with my lumia in low light. how is this possible. i cant even return it to att for another replacement because my 14 days is up and all they will do is send me a used phone. **bleep**. This is my second lumia 920  as the first had a battery issue. Im done .Im about to sell this thing on ebay and get a iphone. After 2 weeks nokia has ruin the wp8  experience for me. im so **bleep**.

    That white flash you're seeing is most likely the autofocus assist light (i.e. uses the dual LED's next to the camera). In low light, it is suggested to turn the flash off anyway. It is normal behaviour. If you are still having problems, perhaps take your phone to a Nokia Care point instead. to locate your nearest Nokia care: http://nokia.com/suppot
    And as this is a user to user forum only, you can contact Nokia directly to leave feedback by clicking the Contact Us link at the bottom of this page.

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