OT:Photograph resolution

Hi,
Is 300 ppi enough for developing photographs on photographic paper that
were taken with a digital camera? I'll be doing this at a photo shop
rather than on my home printer. Or should the resolution be higher? I
would like the photos to come out as good as they used to be when we
took our holiday snaps on cameras with real film, if that's still possible!
Anyone know? (I could ask at the shop, but I doubt that they really know.)
Thanks,
Ariel

would 300 ppi be enough to more or less match
It probably is. Over 300ppi and your eye sight will come into play.
Here's a high res scan from a dye-sub print. If I zoom in on the lettering you can see the pixels (there's no printer dot), so more res is potentially better. Enlarging the clouds I can see that more res wouldn't make any diffference because there's not much to reslove:

Similar Messages

Photograph resolution [complete newbie] question

I don't think I'm quite "getting the concept," as they say. The presentations I'm planning to give are photographic, to groups of 10 to 50+ people (in rooms that fit as many). My company has a 2007 projector, 2000 lumens, 800x600 native resolution.
I'm so used to the idea that a larger [print] image requires higher resolution for best results. So, if I have a digital photograph that measures, say 3872x2592, and file size is reduced to 800x600 to match the projector's native resolution, won't the resulting image when spread on an 8 foot screen from 30 feet be anything BUT clear?
Thanks for your guidance.

Depends on the photos. Until YOU see it projected YOU wno't know if it's good enough.
If you'd like to see an example of what 800x600 looks like, open the Display settings in System Preferences, click Scaled, and pick 800x600.

How automatic are iPhoto4 & IMovie4 in processing images?

I have several hundred images, ranging from 20MB in size to 100MB. Thes images were scanned to scale at 300ppi in TIFF format at 16-bit depth. I want to make a DVD of these images with music and narration.
I plan to use iPhoto4 and iMovie 4 to process the images. I'm unfamiliar with how video works re: formats, resolutions, etc., altho I do know image dimensions should be about 640x480 pixels. To me, a still photographer, resolution means pixels per inch or dots per inch. All my experience is with printing images.
Will iP4 & iM4 do all the rendering, converting, etc., needed to burn these images on a DVD, or do I need to do something, like convert TIFF to JPEG before importing into iP4? Or, can I just import them into iP4, sort them, then import them into iM4 without doing anything to them beforehand or while they're in iP4 & iM4, respectively? I would like to use the Ken Burns effect.
Maybe an explanation would be too long for this forum & I need to buy a book. If so, can anyone recommend a good one?
David

Hi
My guess is that You can import Your photos into iPhoto and from within
iMovie select and place them in Your "movie" project. I did and didn't
bother about size.
Important: After You made Your movie - do not go to iDVD by the Share/
Export function in iMovie because it will render Your photos and does this
in a destroying way.
- Close iMovie
- Find Your Movie project icon (the one with a star on it)
- open iDVD and drop the icon into a selected theme window - just inside
the edge of it so that it not ends up an a movie background - but as a text
button with the movie name (If You need to change this do it HERE and
not to the icon on Your desktop (or where You saved it).
Book: the Missing Manual of iMovie HD & iDVD by David Pogue
The most condensed book of information I've got.
Yours Bengt W

I would appreciate it if someone could advise me as to the optimum resolution, dimensions and dpi for actual photographic slides that I am scanning for use in a Keynote Presentation, that will be projected in a large auditorium. I realize that most proje

I would appreciate it if someone could advise me as to the optimum resolution, dimensions and dpi for actual photographic slides that I am scanning for use in a Keynote Presentation, that will be projected in a large auditorium. I realize that most projectors in auditoriums that I will be using have 1024 x 1200 pixels, and possibly 1600 x 1200. There is no reference to this issue in the Keynote Tutorial supplied by Apple, and I have never found a definitive answer to this issue online (although there may be one).
Here’s my question: When scanning my photographic slides, what setting, from 72 dpi to 300 dpi, would result in the best image quality and use up the most efficient amount of space?
Here’s what two different photo slide scanning service suppliers have told me:
Supplier No. 1 tells me that they can scan slides to a size of 1544 x 1024 pixels, at 72 dpi, which will be 763 KB, and they refer to this as low resolution (a JPEG). However, I noticed when I looked at these scanned slides, the size of the slides varied, with a maximum of 1.8 MB. This supplier says that the dpi doesn’t matter when it comes to the quality of the final digital image, that it is the dimensions that matter. They say that if they scanned a slide to a higher resolution (2048 x 3072), they would still scan it at 72 dpi.
Supplier No. 2: They tell me that in order to have a high quality image made from a photographic slide (starting with a 35 mm slide, in all cases), I need to have a “1280 pixel dimension slide, a JPEG, at 300 dpi, that is 8 MB per image.” However, this supplier also offers, on its list of services, a “Standard Resolution JPEG (4MB file/image – 3088 x 2048), as well as a “High Resolution JPEG (8 MB file/image – 3088x2048).
I will be presenting my Keynotes with my MacBook Pro, and will not have a chance to try out the presentations in advance, since the lecture location is far from my home, so that is not an option.
I do not want to use up more memory than necessary on my laptop. I also want to have the best quality image.
One more question: When scanning images myself, on my own scanner, for my Keynote presentations, would I be better off scanning them as JPEGs or TIFFs? I have been told that a TIFF is better because it is less compressed.
Any enlightenment on this subject would be appreciated.
Thank you.

When it comes to Keynote, I try and start with a presentation that's 1680 x 1050 preset or something in that range. Most projectors that you'll get at a conference won't project much higher than that and if they run at a lower resolution, it's better to have the device downsize your Keynote. Anything is better than having the projector try and upsize your presentation... you work hard to make it look good, and it's mangled by some tired Epson projector.
As far as slides go, scan them in at 150 dpi or better, and make them at least the dimensions of your presentation. Keynote is really only wanting 72dpi, but I do them at 150, just in case I need to print out the presentation as a handout later, and having the pix at 150 dpi gives me a little help with their quality on a printer.
You'd probably have to drop in the 150 versions again if you output the Keynote to .pdf or Word or something, but at least you have the option.
And Gary's right (above) go ahead and scan them as TIFFs. Sooner or later you'll want to do something else with these slides (like make something for an iPad or the like) and having them as TIFFs keeps your presentation looking good.
Finally, and this is a big one, get to the location for your presentation ahead of time if you can, and plug the laptop in and see what you get. There's always connection problems. Don't let the AV bonehead tell you everything will work just fine ('... I don't have any adapters for a Mac...') . See it for yourself... you're the one that's standing up there. Unless it's your boss, then you better be really sure it works.

Why are my photographs losing resolution when I rotate them

Most of the photographs are in portrait orientation, and for some reason the camera(canon 6d) stopped detecting it, so they are stored as landscape.. So I need to rotate them in Lightroom. The rotation causes them to look reaaly low resolution. This does not happen in other editing softwares.

Rotating in LR doesn’t change the underlying image data, it is just a flag that says to display the data differently, but when you rotate the photos, the preview would need to be redone, and a low-resolution preview is the initial one you’d see until LR has a chance to compute another one, which is typically immediately.
If previews are not getting recomputed immediately, then your computer may be busy doing something else, or there could be a problem with your previews cache, or with LR, itself. You can force previews to be recomputed by selecting the photos and then choosing Library (module) / Library (menu item) / Previews / Build Standard-Sized (or 1:1) Previews. Try this and see what happens.
What happens in Develop when you adjust something with one of these rotated images, does the preview become sharp after a few moments?

Low resolution when printing photographs after editing in Iphoto

Hi there, I would be grateful for some advice. I took some photographs and imported them into Iphoto - they are all approx 3 MB. I edited some of them in Iphoto, cropped a few, did a few in B&W. I burned them onto a disc and took them into my local photo shop. They told me that the resolution was not high enough for them to be printed. When I looked i saw that the edited photos had been reduced to around 700KB. Why is this and what can i do???!!!

Burning them to disk via the Share menu creates a mini library on the disk intended for use by iPhoto only. What was used for the prints must have been the thumbnail files of the library.
What you need to do to get the edited and cropped photos to disk is export them to a folder on the desktop via the File->Export->File Export menu option. Use Kind=jpeg, JPEG Quality=Maximum, Size=Full Size. Then burn the folder of files to disk via the Finder.

Placing high resolution photographs

I have edited some high resolution photographs in Photoshop, although when I place the image onto my InDesign document I lose a lot of the pictures quality, and when I print the InDesign document you can see all the pixels.
Does anyone have any advise to stop this from happening?
cheers, Natalka

Mike,
You lost me. Are you suggesting those are the total pixel dimension? That's not the case. Those are ppi -- general resolution -- numbers, and are really fairly meaningless in terms of what the quality of the underlying image might be, only an indication of the density you chose to pack the pixels when saved in the editing program. From my perspective seeing a number near 300 ppi in the effective resolution field simply says that there is sufficient image data to give a decent reproduction of the image, at the quality it is, using a halftone linescreen up to 150 lpi or maybe even 200 lpi if you aren't too fussy.
That doesn't mean a fuzzy image will be sharp, or that an upsampled screen capture will no longer look jagged, which is where I think Ken was headed earlier.
If the screen preview looks pixelated it could still be a display quality issue, even with High Quality Display selected, if preserve object level display options is enabled and the object is set to a lower level, or if someone has edited the quality settings in the preferences to render High Quality as a lower resolution preview (you can even set it to show the gray proxy in HQ, if it suits you), so there are a couple of other things to check.
Resetting Send Image Data in the print dialog from Optimized Subsampling to All should provide the best possible output, so if the prints look bad I'd go back and look at the image. Print one at the same size directly from Photoshop for comparison.
We haven't addressed yet, I think, whether there is any issue with color conversion. Perhaps that's part of what the OP is seeing when they say the image looks bad.
Peter

Highest resolution photographs on iweb pages

I have an iweb photography website (thecolorblindphotographer.net). most all of my photographs are a minimum of 10mb, and some are even larger. i have reduced them on the webpage to around 500K or less. can i just drop the originals into iweb and let iweb resize them at an optimal setting? if not how do you get your photographs to display on iweb to look their absolute best? mine don't look anywhere near as good as they should.
thanks!
gary

Hi Gary!
Pixel dimensions are the most important parameter limitation with iWeb - not file size. From what I've read on this forum and my experiments, 4000 px wide is iWeb's limitation.
10 MB images - what is your file format? A 10 MB JPEG would be a huge file in terms of dimensions and far more than iWeb can handle (including iFrames). I can get a 4000 px image @ 3:2 ratio, medium quality compression (all you need for the web) to weigh in at 1.0-1.2 MB depending on subject matter.
Quality...
======
Always roll your own to your precise needs - do not let iWeb optimize your images.
Make sure you are "converting" (not "assigning") your color profile from Adobe RGB/Photo Pro RGB to "sRGB".
Sharpening your images at the exact size they are to be displayed should be the last step. Sharpening does impact your compression. Sharpened images do not compress as well as slightly blurred images (bigger file sizes)...

I'm about to become a professional photographer and in the process of producing my own website. I want to choose one which allows photos from Aperture to be uploaded onto it in full resolution, with keyword/time metadata attached. Is this possible?

I plan to use a company such as Zenfolio to allow automatic ordering and payment of prints also. I would also like the photos to be uploaded with a watermark attached. Is this best to apply in Aperture, or by the website, if that is possible?!

There are plug-ins to upload from Aperture to both Zenfolio and SmugMug. The latter is built-in to Aperture 3.5.
I personally use SmugMug and I watermark the photos after the fact. I do this because if people order prints, they want an un-watermarked print, and if I watermark the photo that I upload to the service itself, there's no way to remove it, other than uploading a new version. I'd assume Zenfolio can do the same but don't know first hand.

I received our wedding photos on a USB flash drive from our professional photographer. I am trying to get these photos on my ipad 4.

I have enough room on my ipad for all 600 photos.
I have tried to sync the photos through iTunes by choosing the USB drive on my computer. The folder appears empty.
I have purchased a lightning to USB camera kit and nothing happened once I plugged the USB into the ipad.
I thought since the lighting to SD card reader I've been using with my camera works maybe I'll try uploading a photo or two onto the SD card and use the lighting to SD card reader and do it that way. I see the photo I chose on the camera when the SD card is inserted into my desktop, but once I insert it into the camera kit on ipad it doesn't show up. The other photos I have taken show up but not the ones I copied over onto it show up.
I wonder if our photographer saved the photos in such a way to prevent me from syncing them? I have permission and the rights to use them so that's probably unlikely. The photos are saved as jpegs.
My other thought is maybe the photos are too large in size to upload onto the ipad? Is there a limit? Under properties they are listed around 400kb and 1800x1200 in dimension.
Please help! I'm wanting to make a photo book for the holidays as a gift with one of the ipad apps.
Thank you in advance

Hi Kat U,
Many thanks for your question today.
I am happy to assist you in this process and this method of helping you today will not involve you using your Camera Connection Kit from Apple.
This method of downloading images onto the iPad requires the following items:
The USB
A computer/Mac with a USB Port
The iPad
iTunes (preferably iTunes 11, but it won't make much difference if you have iTunes 10)
Before we start I have based this resolution on the basis that you use:
iPad 4 with iOS 7.0.0 or better
iTunes 10 or better
Mac OS X Mountain Lion or better or Windows 7 or better
Here are my steps to resolve your issue:
Insert the USB drive into your computer and then go into the folder in windows explorer or finder where the images are saved on your USB.
Save all the images from the USB under one folder on your own folder in your document/image folders (not on the USB). On the Hard Drive
Remove your USB stick from your computer
Insert your iPad with the lightning connector into your Mac/PC.
When iTunes pops up click on the iPad icon/textbox - it may say (i.e. Name's iPad). (If iTunes does not pop up open it up manually by clicking twice on the icon on your desktop or Dock Taskbar).
Click on Photo's Tab and the tick the tick box for: sync photos from
Click my pictures (located next to sync photos from), then navigate around your folders until you choose the folder where you copied your images from the USB stick to and once you have found the folder click select folder.
Press sync.
Go to your iPad once it has synced and log in, click on photos then albums (located bottom right of the menu/screen) then click on the Album of the images - (its name will be what the Album's name was on your computer).
Your images should be located there.
If this resolution does not work, you have three other options
Try the solution provided by the gentleman above using the Camera Connection Kit
Call Apple - American number is 1800-MY-APPLE (1800-692-7753) and go through to AppleCare for iPad
Take the USB and iPad to your closest Apple Store and get a Genius to look and possibly fix the problem.
Many Thanks for your question and allowing me the time to possibly resolve your issue. I hope to hear from you soon regarding this issue.
iBenjamin
<Email Edited by Host>

Remove Aperture resolution warning on MacBook

Hey everyone,
I'm running Aperture on my 2.0Ghz Black MacBook. I'm not a hardcore photographer, dealing only with images from my 5MP camera. I have 2GB ram and find the performance great. The only annoying thing is when I start it and it says "Aperture needs a system with a resolution of 1280x824 press okay to continue." Or whatever resolution it says. Is there a way to disable that warning? It's totally fine on my system and a pain every time I start it! Thanks.

A quick search in this forum for [resolution warning] yielded this previous thread and solution:
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=2689081&#2689081
hope that helps,

I want to make a copy of slide show create from my own photographs and with a an audio track behind them. I have carefully followed the iDVD tutorials and burnt the result to a disc but image quality is very poor. What is wrong?

I want to make a DVD of a slide-show with an audio track behind the photographs. I have carefully followed the iDVD video tutorials but the result is far from satisfactory. The quality of the images on the resulting DVD are blurred and indistict although the original photographs are of a very high quality. Where am I going wrong? Would I have better results from a different program than the inbuilt iDVD and if so so what programs have others found to be better? I should be grateful for some expert guidance.

Hey Falcopebo,
Thanks for using Apple Support Communities.
Looks like you have image quality issues when using iDVD to burn.
iDVD 7.0: Burned DVD has interlacing, pixelation, or image quality issues
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht4078
A standard DVD made by iDVD is made to the standard DVD resolution of 720 X 480, which is smaller than most HDTVs and monitors. When expanded to fit the entire screen or monitor, the image will distort slightly due to upscaling to fit the screen or monitor.
Have a nice day,
Mario

How can I make a photograph large enough for large format printing?

Is there a way to make an image larger on photoshop or illustrator? I will be printing on a large format latex printer. So the printer itself is excellent but its the image that i am struggling to acquire.
I have basic knowledge of the programmes but if you could explain it to me i could figure it out.....
I am aware of rasterize and vectors, but please could you explain how they work, and if that is my solution.
I want to keep the original photograph as realistic as possible (would prefer not to have it traced on illustrator) and from research it says simply increasing the image size amount of pixels on photoshop does not help...perhaps it does, if you know please help!
This will be a print for an interior wall of an exhibition trailer, and we want to cover all the walls. Plus in future we will be printing for vehicle wraps so I need this knowledge! Help me

Let e try to explain briefly...
"Is there a way to make an image larger on photoshop or illustrator? I will be printing on a large format latex printer. So the printer itself is excellent but its the image that i am struggling to acquire.
- The actual resolution necessary to print grand format depends on the printer. Most of the large-to-grand format inkjets print at 600dpi. Photoshop is the better application for sizig images, while Illustrator is the better application for sizing graphics ( ie., logos ) and type. Use Illustrator to layout both the images and the graphics. You typically would send the print vendor an appropriate PDF file ( that can be scaled ).
I have basic knowledge of the programmes but if you could explain it to me i could figure it out.....
I am aware of rasterize and vectors, but please could you explain how they work, and if that is my solution.
I want to keep the original photograph as realistic as possible (would prefer not to have it traced on illustrator) and from research it says simply increasing the image size amount of pixels on photoshop does not help...perhaps it does, if you know please help!
- You most certainly can use photographs in large format. The problem is you will have to setup the file scaled down. In some cases, the output will have to be assembled in sections. Let's take a section of 10 feet high x 36 feet long. You'd setup your Illustrator file 2.5 feet high x 9 feet long ( 25% ) or 30 inch x 108 inch to be enlarged at the printer 400%. Each time you enlarge an image 2x you cut its resolution in half. So, an image starting at 300ppi will end up at 75ppi. So, your image file would need to be 300ppi at 25%. 75ppi sounds low, right? In actuality, it is enough to print grand format and the image appears smooth. Now the question becomes, how do I get an image large enough in Photoshop? Remember, you'll need a 30" x 108" image plus bleed at 300ppi ( Placed in Illustrator at 100% ). There are applications like Genuine Fractals or Image Doctor's "Blowup" which will enlarge an image file without degradation. I use Genuine Fractals and the results are phenominal.
This will be a print for an interior wall of an exhibition trailer, and we want to cover all the walls. Plus in future we will be printing for vehicle wraps so I need this knowledge! Help me "
- It'll become easier as you do more of this type of work. The amount you end up scaling is up to you. There are limitations as to how big a document can be in Illustrator. I like 25% because it is similar to working on a print ad that is high resolution. Another thing to remember is set your raster effects to High in Illustrator. They will be retained in the PDF which will be enlarged 400% and the ending raster effects will be 75ppi just like the image. Also, feel free to contact the print vendor and ask them questions. You could send them what I've written here and see if they agree. Let me know if you have any further questions.

How to change resolution in Pages to send to a print shop

I need to send my Card design to the Printer they need it in 300 resolution to make it sharp to print

You need to determine your finished resolution for every photographic image you use, and as fruhulda says there are problems with transparency being rendered at 72dpi.
Peter

How to determine the number of pixels of a desired object within a digital photograph?

Hi everyone. I want to determine the number of pixels in an object that is part of a digital photo. I use cameras to film chunks of ice breaking away from ice cliffs or tidewater glaciers. I want to know the size of the ice chunk that my digital photographs capture. I know the width and height of the ice cliff in metres already, so I was thinking that I could convert the equivalent of 1 pixel : ? metres - this is really what I want to do. That way every time I see a chunk of ice breaking off, I can pull up the photo, outline the chunk, calculate how many pixels fill the area of ice removed by the chunk breaking off and convert to metres area 2 - thus giving me my size order. If anyone has ideas on how to do this I would really appreciate it, thanks so much community. I was thinking that Photoshop or Fireworks could help me with this, Ricky

Thanks gener7 and normfb.
The Photoshop help measurement page is brilliant and I think I can use the info on that page to work out my iceberg sizes. Check out the attached photo - you are looking at an ice cliff - essentially the front of a tidewater glacier that flows in the ocean. I'm a research student and I look at the process of iceberg calving - this is the term we use to define the sudden breaking away or detachment of ice chunks from glaciers that end in the sea.
I used the lasso tool to crop the area of ice lost as a single chunk of ice detached from the ice cliff. At the same time I had the histogram window open. The histogram showed me how many pixels were contained in the cropped area. What I need to do now is work out what 1 pixel is equivalent to in metres. Soon I will have a digital elevation model for the ice cliff that will offer centimetre to metre scale resolution of the surface topography - so that should really help. The photographs I have are taken every 30 seconds - which is brilliant for documenting how the geometry of the ice cliff adjusts in response to detaching ice pieces and also because the ice is moving. I am a research student in Canada, and at the time I took the photos we measured that the ice cliff was advancing at a rate of approximately 12 metres per day! That's pretty fast. The flow of the ice is a first order control on the rate of iceberg production - you are essentially pushing ice into the ocean where it breaks off. I'm having to learn everything Photoshop from scratch...so please bare with me because maybe some of the photoshop questions I ask are simple to most!
I noticed the "integrated density" function on the help sheet you suggested. This function also provides the square number of pixels contained in the cropped area I select...I guess this is similar to the histogram right?
Either way - i just need the scale conversion to go from 1 pixel : metres or cm equivalent. At that point I think I will have to manually select every single iceberg event from my time-lapse photos and do this the manual way! I have about 800 events to manually digitise and calculate the area for...
Thanks everyone, Ricky

OT:Photograph resolution

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