Power Ups with added effects

So yah the titles not clear but a lot me to explain. R1 has always been the weapon button in LBP games. However LBPK It seems to be L1 which brought me to a interesting thoughtWhat if each power had two functions? One that's on L1 that can be disabled And enabled.Grabinator - a Melee Punch with a charge up that's Like a super slap. Possibly could be used in Versus modes. And Possibly a easy way to save thermo space Grappling Hook - Duel Hooks that act as Long range appendages. Like for example: a Button that's ungraspable over a pit of spikes with no jet pack in sight., By holding L1 u can target the button using the left stick or automatically with a tag . Again another weapon good for lower thermo in non Sackbot versus levels Jetpack - Holding L1 And pressing up or down you can switch Layers, * this would also apply to swimming, which could be disabled in the tools bag. * Simple ideas but I doubt it'll be implemented. It kinda takes out some fun in experimenting with tools And stuff

Welcome to the  Discussion Forums.
There are no effects in im08 and suspect you are using an earlier version of imovie. You might get a better response if you post in the appropriate forum.

Similar Messages

16:9 with added effects becomes 4:3 when I export it.

I have recorded some footage in 16:9, imported it in iMovie HD, edited it, added some effects, and now I´m trying to export the project to my camera. The problem is only that the parts where I have added an effect turns into 4:3 once I export it. The parts where I haven´t added an effect are still 16:9, which means it switches between 16:9 and 4:3 in the same project. In iMovie it is all 16:9, but obviously something goes wrong when I export it. Does anybody know why?
I´ve also tried to make a quicktime file from the same project, and in this case the whole project turns into 4:3 - at least that´s how it appears when i play it in quicktime or VLC, for that matter. Any ideas what I could do to keep it 16:9?

Welcome to the  Discussion Forums.
There are no effects in im08 and suspect you are using an earlier version of imovie. You might get a better response if you post in the appropriate forum.

I imported a video I make in another program and I played it back in the video editor and I like the pan and zoom that was added by the program how do I save a copy with the effect of Premiere elements 12

I imported a video I make in movie maker program and I played it back in the premiere video editor and I like the pan and zoom that was added by the program how do I save a copy with the effect of Premiere elements 12
all I did was played it back how do I save that and make a new version of the video beacause when I save a copy the effect look I was trying to save was not there.
Rodney
[personal information removed... Mod - https://forums.adobe.com/docs/DOC-3731]
[This is an open forum, not Adobe support, please do not post personal information]
[If you are posting using email, please turn your 'sig file' function OFF for posting]

silkman1
I would be glad for the opportunity to customize a Premiere Elements 12 answer to your Premiere Elements 12 issue.
But, I want to make sure that we are together on the details. This is my understanding of what you have written. Please review and let me
know if I am misinterpreting anything that you have written.
You have a video created in Windows Movie Maker.
How did you output the video from Windows Movie Maker...wmv or mp4, what was the frame size and frame rate of that export?
Next you import that video into Premiere Elements 12 (can we assume that this is on Windows 7, 8, or 8.1 64 bit?)
From what you wrote, you have applied a pan and zoom effect to your video in Premiere Elements.
Now you go to export the Premiere Elements 12 Timeline content with your video with the pan and zoom applied.
But, the pan and zoom effect is not seen in playback of the export.
Is all of the above correct so far?
If so....we are going to need some more details from you...
a. What is the project preset that you or the project are setting to match the properties of the video coming from Movie maker? See Edit Menu/Project Settings/General and the readings for Editing Mode, Timebase, Frame Rate, and Pixel Aspect Ratio even if the fields look grayed out.
b. Are you applying the pan and zoom effect with the Pan and Zoom Tool, fx Effects Presets, or keyframing the Scale (for Zoom) and
Position (for Pan) in the Motion Panel expanded?
c. What are you selecting as your export in Publish+Share/. Please give details...are you using default settings or customizing the export
setting under the Advanced Button/Video Tab and Audio Tab of the preset selected?
I am suspecting some sort of mismatch of your project settings or some problems with working with the Pan and Zoom tool. I need
your answers to help me help you. If I have written anything that you do not understand, please let me know. I will re-write if necessary
so that we are in sync to resolve the issue.
Thanks.
ATR

T440p exactly once per two power ups cannot boot with USB mouse receiver insterted.

With inserted nano Logitech mouse receiver my Lenovo cannot boot once per two power ups.
Let say that I power off laptop. Power on, it just powers down itself after 3-4 seconds. I power up it again and everything is OK. It allways behave the same way: NOTOK >> OK.

engywook wrote:Erm, I dunno, I'd guess input-mouse. I have no idea what evdev is.
evdev is a generic input driver (you can use it for both your mouse and keyboard). If you do not know what the evdev driver is, you most likely are using the xf86-input-mouse driver.
To be sure you can use a
pacman -Q | grep xf86-input
from the command line and see which one comes up. Try switching to the other (you need to install it first of course). This gentoo wiki page may help you a bit how to configure your xorg.conf for an evdev driver: http://gentoo-wiki.com/HOWTO_Advanced_M … d_USB_Mice (note that you do not need most parts that are written there)
Does this solve your problem? If not, try using the vesa video driver temporarily to see if the problem is with your video card driver.
engywook wrote:Do I need to do something with pacman to get all the packages at the mirror? all I've really done so far is pacman -Sy or -Su whatever updates it.
No normally that should work. You don't get any results when doing
pacman -Ss pidgin
If so try to use another mirror and see if that helps.

Help with adding video effects.

Okay, so I am very new with Adobe Premiere Pro CS3, and decided to start working with video effects.
So far I can add an effect onto a video clip that I dragged down from the source monitor, but that applies the effect to the whole video track. I want it to start and end at a certain point.
I have read the Adobe Help Viewer on effects many times over and over, but still, I cannot get it to work.
I have set in and out put points in my Timeline, and went into the effects controls and peaked around, but have had no success at all with getting my effect to start and end at a certain point.
Can anyone help me out a little bit? I'm sure you are all Pro's at this, haha.

You will also find links to many
free tutorials in the PremiereProPedia that will quickly show you how things are done in Premiere Pro.
Cheers
Eddie
PremiereProPedia (
RSS feed)
- Over 300 frequently answered questions
- Over 250 free tutorials
- Maintained by editors like
you
Forum FAQ

Please help! Major problems (performance and lock-ups) with brand new W520 with Intel 520 SSD

My company primarily uses HP machines but I've been a long time IBM (now Lenovo) fan so I recently had IT purchase me a new Lenovo W520 (product ID 42763LU).
Once the machine arrived I had them do the following:
Remove the 500GB HDD and replace it with an Intel 520 series 240GB SSD
Remove the optical drive and install the 500GB hard drive that came with the machine in the optical bay (with the bay adapter of course)
Format both drives and put a preconfigured windows 7 64-bit image on the SSD
A general summary of the system is the following:
Intel i7-2860QM CPU
8GB RAM
NVIDIA Quadro 1000M
Intel 520 240GB SSD (primary HDD) [SSDSC2CW240A3]
Hitachi 500GB HDD (optical bay) [HTS727550A9E365]
Intel Advanced-N 6205 network adapter
TouchChip Fingerprint Scanner
The machine was a few days delayed getting to me due to "hard drive driver issues" (that's what I was told). When I received the machine I immediately noticed that it was much slower than I expected (I have a custom built i5 HTPC at home running windows 7 on a Crucial SATA III SSD that I was comparing it to) and I was experiencing frequent hangs (ranging from 30 seconds to multiple minutes), super long boot times, general “slowness” at times, and occasional lock-ups. Since our "baseline" laptop here at work is the "equivalent" HP workstation my IT guys have been less than helpful in helping me to solve this issue. Being reasonably computer savvy I decided to try to try to fix the issue myself. I performed the following “troubleshooting” steps:
1. One of the first issues (errors) I noticed in the event viewer was errors related to the optical drive. Clearly the image they installed on the machine was not from a machine with the same hardware configuration. So, I decided to just wipe the machine and perform a fresh install of windows 7 from the disks (well, USB). After spending multiple days installing windows, performing updates, making sure all the drivers were current, and installing only the critical software I need, I was disappointed to realize that although I fixed the optical drive errors the machine was still slow, was hanging, and locking up regularly.
2. Removed the cover on the machine and removed/reinstalled the drive to verify it was secure.Everything looked good.
3. Verified the latest firmware is installed on all my Intel hardware. Everything seemed up to date.
4. I performed a number of troubleshooting steps like booting the machine with/without the battery, with/without the HDD in the optical bay, installed/removed from the docking station, etc. and none of these things helped (also a note – occasionally when running on the battery I was hearing a strange “buzz” or “static” sound coming from the area around the SSD).
5. Next I did some internet research and learned quite a few things. First, it sounds like others have had similar problems with this machine and/or SSD combo and there were quite a few options suggested to “fix” these issues. The general consensus for troubleshooting steps were:
5.1. Download and install the latest Intel chipset drivers and AHCI controller drivers (overwriting whatever windows installs during updates).This didn’t fix anything.
5.2. Turn off PCI express link state power management in the power manager. This didn’t fix anything.
5.3. Disable superfetch, prefetch, indexing, defragmentation, page file, system restore, and hibernate. A few of these were already disabled by windows so in those cases I just verified they were disabled in the services and application editor. These things may have slightly increased performance but did not fix the major hang/lockup issues I was having.
5.4. I followed online steps to edit the registry to disable the PCI link power management by adding ports, adding the required variables, and setting them all to 0. This did seem to have fixed the hangs and/or lock-ups but the machine is still much slower than I would expect (boot times are still pretty slow and it does “stutter” when I’m doing more than one thing at a time. Also a note here – I have the Intel SSD toolbox installed and I noticed that it was giving me a warning for DIPM not being optimized. I made the mistake of clicking “Tune!” and then started having the hang/lock-up issues again. I went back into the registry and sure enough the PCI link power management variables for ports 0 and 1 were set back to 1. I set them back to 0 and the hangs have gone away. I will not be “tuning” the DIPM through the Intel SSD toolbox again…
6. I also fixed a couple of other minor errors I was seeing in the event viewer by disabling benign services and/or making slight timeout modifications (I researched each issue on the internet to verify they were benign before I implemented any changes). These fixes didn't seem to do anything other than make some of the errors/warnings go away. So, the list of errors/warnings has become much smaller but I’m still getting the following (maybe an issue, maybe not?):
Event ID 37 for every processor saying that they are in a reduced performance state for xx seconds since the last report
Event ID 10002 - WLAN Extensibility Module has stopped
Event ID 4001 - WLAN AutoConfig service has successfully stopped
Event ID 27 – Intel® 82579LM Gigabit Network Connection link is disconnected
I suspect the WLAN errors have something to do with windows fighting with the Lenovo access connection tools?
7. Since the machine still seemed slow I downloaded the program AS SSD and checked the performance of the SSD. When I compared my performance numbers to the benchmark numbers I found onlineI was very surprised to discover that I’m getting about 50% of the performance that I should (values below are read/write).
Seq: 262.11 / 188.32 (s/b 504.58 / 298.28) [MB/s]
4K: 15.83 / 44.92 (s/b 21.70 / 62.60) [MB/s]
4K-64Thrd: 165.23 / 154.46 (s/b 241.38 / 234.08) [MB/s]
Acc.time: 0.218 / 0.294 (s/b .0186 / 0.208) [ms]
Score: 207 / 208 (s/b 314 / 327)
Overall Score: 533 (s/b 797)
One more note - it seems like my cooling fan is running at a high speed almost all of the time. This is probably one of my power settings (I think I have it set for max performance) but it's even doing this when there is no load (i.e. I'm using IE and just vieweing webpages - like right now).
So, I apologize for such a long post but I’ve spent countless hours researching and troubleshooting this problem and haven’t been able to figure out what the heck is wrong here. Am I missing something simple or do you guys think I have a SSD and/or problem with the machine itself? To say that any and all help would be greatly appreciated would be a massive understatement – I’m on the verge of pulling my hair out and I really need this machine working as quickly as possible!
Please let me know if you have any suggestions and/or need additional information. Thanks in advance for your help!
-Erik

Lol gotcha about the drive as an option. I didn't go SSD with mine. Do you have the latest firmware on your drive? It is supposed to be v1.97. Just checking (ah and I see item 3 so guess so). Do you have the SSD drive toolbox software installed?
http://downloadcenter.intel.com/SearchResult.aspx?lang=eng&ProductFamily=Solid+State+Drives+and+Cach...)
Seems some useful tools are in there. I can't say much beyond that with the drive. Oh. Why does your fan always run at high speed? Can you describe that? I mean, are we troubleshooting the right kind of issue? Is there anything else going on with your system? I saw about the reduced core speeds message. what are your system loads like? Anything causing high cpu utilization? Could be something other than the drive causing your low numbers and lockups.

Problem with keyframe effect - at start and end (crop and scale)

I'm having this odd problem with keyframe effects.
Setup:
I have a gif image that I have on video 1 for say 2 minutes.
I have my real video on video 2. It is a person talking.
First I start with my video full size on top of video 1.
Though the motion and cropping keyframe management I slowly reduce the scale and crop my video image so that it is reduced to the lower left bottom of the screen, on top of the gif, which is now revealed.
My problem is at the start and end of the transition from full video to small box on lower left on top of my gif I often get 1-2 frames where the video goes blank and/or I get a bunch of random red bars on black background appearing on the video - Or I get the gif from video 1 without the video 2 at all (it disappears).
I've tried moving my start of end of the transition to skip the bad spots - but these new transition starts or ends not get their own bad spots in the same way. Its only a couple of frames but it's really unacceptable for the finished video.
Note, when I say transition here I don't mean real transition events, but rather the start of effects that are managed with keyframes. My move from start to end of the effect runs for about 4-6 seconds.
Any ideas?

Bill,
Here is more detail and screen captures.
Concept:
I have 3 minutes of video. It contains a person making a speech. During parts of the speech I want to reveal a graphic image that will be discussed. The speech will begin with the speaker full screen. Half way in, the speaker will shrink down to 45% in the lower left corner of the screen. While the animation occurs (the shrink, move and cropping) it will reveal the graphic below. The graphic will take up the full screen with the speaker at 45%.
Technique:
I put the video in Video 2 and the graphic, a GIF image in Video 1. The scene begins with the speaker talking at full screen. After a minute, I animate the move of the speaker using Motion: Scale and Position and Effect: Crop changing Top, Bottom, Left and Right sides. The animation occurs over approximately 8 seconds.
I am manually adding keyframes at the start and end of the animation. I set the ending state of the video image in the end keyframes. The interpolation between these start and end keyframes should be managing the animation.
Problem:
At the beginning and end of the animation – usually 1-3 frames from the start and 1-3 frames from the end, where the change has barely begun or almost ended, I get these problems. On some frames, the video (in Video 2) completely disappears only showing the Video 1 GIF image below. On other frames, the video image turns black with horizontal red bands half way across.
Troublshooting:
I’ve tried deleting all start and end keyframes and moving the start and end earlier or later to see if I can fix this, but the problem continues to show up in these new locations.
I have added a few screen shots.
1:32:15 is the start of the animation change and 1:40:22 is the end of increasing from the mini video speaker to full size (on top of the GIF).
At 1:40:16 the video image completely disappears only showing the GIF below.
At 1:40:17 its back and slowly increases in size through the interpolation until it is full size at 1:40:22.
Let me know if you need anything else.
Thanks!
Evan

Success with adding an external eSATA drive to a Verizon FIOS DVR

August 4, 2012 - Success with adding an external eSATA drive to a Verizon FIOS DVR
I just upgraded from a Comcast DVR to a Verizon FIOS DVR. I upgraded because my old DVR was limited to 500GB (1/2 TB) on the internal drive and the new FIOS DVR allowed for a much larger external eSATA drive. Selecting a viable external drive for the FIOS DVR was easier said than done. The three drives listed on the Verizon web site as compatible with FIOS DVRs are no longer manufactured by western digital and are not available on the market.
The DVR that I received from Verizon was a Cisco "CHS 435 HD DVR" that came with a 500GB (1/2 TB) internal drive. This is one of their "Multi-Room DVRs" that allows other set top boxes (not DVRs) to watch videos recorded on it.
I selected a western digital "WD30EURS" eSATA disk drive because it was a follow on product to one of the three listed as acceptable by Verzion on their web page and it was 3TB in size. I ordered from amazon.com for $170.99. This drive is a "bare drive" so it does not come with an external encloser or a eSATA cable.
According to the Western Digial web site this is a AV-GP drive: "These drives are designed to last in high temperature always-on, streaming digital audio/video environments such as PVR/DVR, IPTV, and video surveillance systems."
http://www.wdc.com/wdproducts/library/AAG/ENG/2178-771131.pdf
I got a "Macally G-S350SU Hi-Speed eSata/USB2.0 External Storage Enclosure for 3.5inch SATA HDD" to hold the drive for $34.39. I chose this one because it does not use a fan that could cause continious noise. The box is made out of metal so it cools itself as long as it is exposed to air (not covered up). This box comes with an external power supply that has a small transformer that plugs into a wall outlet.
Then I needed a eSATA cable. I got a "StarTech 6-Feet Shielded External eSATA Cable M/M (ESATA6)" for $6.50 and a 3-foot version for $5.90. I went with the longer one so that the cable would be less likely to become accidentally unplugged if I need to move the drive or the DVR. The cables and the drive houseing came from the same Amazon provider so it saved me on shipping. The drive came from Amazon/Western Digial directly but they do not have external housings or eSATA cables on that site.
The total cost was $255.56 including shipping for all these items.
I went with the largest (3TB) drive from western digial's AV-GP line to avoid a future upgrade from a smaller drive to a larger drive. There is no way to copy videos from one external eSATA drive to another drive because they are formatted by the FIOS DVR in a propriatary format. That would mean that any future upgrade would require losing all recorded files during an upgrade. That also means that there is no way to back up the contents of the drive to protect yourself from hard drive failure.
The installer who setup the DVR did not want me to plug in the drive while he was there and explained that I was on my own when I attached this kind of personal device to the DVR. When I plugged in the new eSATA drive it was automatically discovered. I was asked by the DVR if I wanted to format the new drive. I answered yes and within 2 hours the drive completed formatting. I did not watch the boring format so it could have finished faster.
When I started recording new videos they go directly to the external drive automatically and avoids the internal drive. It had no trouble recording two HD shows and playing a recording at the same time. I now have 20 hours of HD video recorded and the 3TB external drive is 17% full. So far my experience with the external drive has been great. No problems or issues. Learning the new remote control, new DVR menu system, and web browser control of the DVR from a laptop is another story. It will take some time to figure out how to make all the new features work.
It took me a while to figure out how to make this work since the verizon web site made useless suggestions and pointed me to products that are not available any more. I could not tell if this really would work until I plugged it in and then I was pleasantly suprised that it did. I have had this working for 3 days without any issues. I hope this post makes it easier for you to add an external eSATA drive to your DVR.
Here are the three items ordered from Amazon to make this work:
Western Digital 3 TB AV-GP 3 TB SATA 2 Intellipower 64 MB Cache Bulk/OEM 3.5-Inch Internal Bare Driv...
Macally G-S350SU Hi-Speed eSata/USB2.0 External Storage Enclosure for 3.5inch SATA HDD
StarTech 6-Feet Shielded External eSATA Cable M/M (ESATA6)

You are right. I can only access 2TB of my 3TB external drive. That gives me a total of 2.5 TB counting the internal (0.5 TB) and external (2.0 TB) drives. This is a significant improvement over the just the 0.5 TB internal drive. I have not been able to find a reason for this limitation. Cisco and Verizon do not mention any limits that I can find. I hope that a future BIOS upgrade could provide access to more space but this would probably require me to reformat the drive and lose everything recorded.
I paid $170.99 for the 3 TB WD30EURS drive at amazon. I could have gotten away with spending only $116.99 for the 2 TB WD20EURS drive. Not worth returning at this point so I will stay with it. Makes me glad I didn't buy the most expensive 6 TB external monster drive available from another company.
I bought: 3TB drive: Western Digital 3 TB AV-GP 3 TB SATA 2 Intellipower 64 MB Cache Bulk/OEM 3.5-Inch Internal Bare Drive WD30EURS by Western Digital
I could have bought: 2TB drive: Western Digital AV-GP 2 TB SATA II Intellipower 64 MB Cache Bulk/OEM Internal Hard Drive - WD20EURS by Western Digital
Details of what I learned:
The external 2 TB drive now has 41 hours of HD video recorded and claims to be 34% full (66% free). My estimate would allow me to have aprox 120 hours of HD on the external drive (2TB) and 30 hours of HD on the internal drive (500GB) for a total of 150 hours of HD. This will keep me happy for the near future.
There is a hidden "diagnostic menu" that is not normally accessible or documented by CISCO or Verizon. This menu has a lot of interesting info on the inner working of the DVR. There was an obscure reference to this menu on another forum.
To access this diagnostics menu:
1) Get the DVR into normal live tv mode (no menu, no guide, no pause ...)
2) Go to the Cisco CHS 435 HD DVR (not the remote control) and press these buttons on the front of the DVR: Press both the Left Arrow "<-" button and "OK" button at the same time and hold them both down for aprox 5 seconds.
3) The "Verizon FiOS TV Diagnostics Menu" menu will appear. The menu can then be used by the remote control.
4) I chose "D03 Memory / HDD" and then "Hard Disk Information" and finally "OK"
A five page disk report appeared. With a little bit of interpretation I discovered:
The Internal Drive is know as "drive 1/hdc1" has 461 GB total space with 454 GB free.
The External Drive is split into two partitions "hdc2" and "hdc3" (aka two mount points).
"drive 2/hdc2" has 1007 MB total with 317 GB free
"drive 3/hdc3" has 1007 MB total with 974 GB free
The normal DVR menu has an "Eject" feature that allows you to stop the external drive and make it safe to remove it from the DVR without losing anything via an unplanned drive removal. This can be found at "DVR" button on remote then "Settings"->"External Hard Drive"->"Eject".

Need help with gunshot effect in FCP

New to FCP and am trying to add a gunshot effect to a short film. Doesn't have to look top notch...just looking for something simple.
I added a muzzle blast for the shooter from detonationfilms.com, which worked great. When i overlayed the muzzle blast, the background was black. I was able to fix this by using Modify>Composite>Screen.
Now I'm trying to add the bullet hitting the victim, but all the shots from detonationfilms.com have white backgrounds. For some reason, when I go to Modify>Composite>Screen it doesn't work for white. What I'm I missing? Are there any other websites that have bullet hits with a black background? As I said, I'm not too picky.
Lastly, I have about a 40 frame shot of the victim collapsing to the ground after being shot. He's wearing a white T-Shirt, which I'd like to stain with blood. Can someone tell me what program would work best for this? I basically think I need to go frame by frame and "paint" the blood on him, but not sure what program is best for this (and simple).
Thanks! Much appreciated.

welcome to the family. We're not really here to help you with practical effects and filmmaking tips, we're here to help you with the software. But we'll see who shows up.
For some reason, when I go to Modify>Composite>Screen it doesn't work for white. What I'm I missing? < </div>
Screen drops out black pixels. It's not really the best way to get luma key effects but it's quick and easy for high contrast effects footage that is delivered on superblack. Try a luma keyer to key out the white.
Lastly, I have about a 40 frame shot of the victim collapsing to the ground after being shot. He's wearing a white T-Shirt, which I'd like to stain with blood. Can someone tell me what program would work best for this? I basically think I need to go frame by frame and "paint" the blood on him, but not sure what program is best for this (and simple). < </div>
Should have been done as a practical effect while shooting. A simple squib and blood packet would have been FAR easier to deal with than rotoscoping and hand painting. You need After Effects or, if you have Motion, crack the manual and get set for some long sessions. There is nothing simple about handpainting on a moving object.
bogiesan

Image with entrance effect

Using Captivate 5.5, I've inserted an image on the slide that is wider than the slide itself. The right edge of the image lines up with the right edge of the slide. I want to add an effect to the image so that when the slide appears, the image appears immediately. Then the image moves from left to right until the left edge of the image lines up with the left edge of the slide. None of the white slide background should be showing at any time.
I've tried various settings with the effects, but each time, some of the white slide background shows at the beginning and/or end of the effect, so that the image is not covering the whole slide.
Can anyone help me?

Hi Jay,
Just tried it out and cannot get your issue
I inserted an image, set it to No transition in the Properties panel (did you do that?), aligned it to the right of the stage and added the effect LeftToRight. Then I changed the motion path so that at the end the image was aligned with the left border of the stage, extended the effect till the end of the slide. This seemed to work as expected, I never did see the background when previewing in Browser or from this slide. I did not publish.
Lilybiri
PS sometimes I set the effect not to start when the image appears but 0,1sec later.

Help with Special Effect

I am building the opening page for a website in Flash, I'm
not the most experienced with Flash, but I'm getting a lot better
and I know many of the functions. However I'm having a problem with
an effect. It shouldn't be too hard to figure out, but here it is.
I have a US Flag that is square it was built in Flash using
about 10 - 12 layers with some motion. I haven't flattened the
layers ( I don't know how too, or even know if I'm supposed to do
that at all).
I am trying to take the last of the constructed square flag
and transform the Square into a Circle encompassing all of the
elements within the square in a nice smooth motion.
What is the best way for me to go about this?
Thank You

First off...no need to flatten layers. In fact, there's no
such thing in Flash (unlike Photoshop or Fireworks). You can only
delete layers (not to be confused with Layer Folders whichcan be
collapsed on the timeline, but not flattened). Most animations need
their own layer anyway and the number of layers won't in and of
themselves effect the size of the resultant SWF (the contents of
those layers will, but adding more layers won't make too much
difference).
Secondly, for the animation effect, you probably want to swap
out your finished square flag (multiple layers) for a single
graphic (new layer). Then, depending on the exact effect you want,
you could use a circular mask on the square or perhaps shape tween
the square to a circle.
Hope that helps!

JavaFX progress bar with glow effect.

I am hoping someone can help me with this issue. I recently followed James Clarke example of a progress bar with glow effect and it helped with developing a progress bar for an application I was working on. But now, with the JavaFX sdk 1.2 update, the application does not fully work anymore. The progressbar.fx code is posted below:
ProgressBar.fx code:
import java.lang.Math;
import java.lang.Object;
import javafx.animation.Interpolator;
import javafx.animation.Timeline;
import javafx.scene.CustomNode;
import javafx.scene.effect.GaussianBlur;
import javafx.scene.Group;
import javafx.scene.Node;
import javafx.scene.paint.Color;
import javafx.scene.paint.Paint;
import javafx.scene.Scene;
import javafx.scene.shape.Ellipse;
import javafx.scene.shape.Rectangle;
import javafx.scene.text.Font;
import javafx.scene.text.Text;
import javafx.scene.text.TextOrigin;
import javafx.stage.Stage;
import javafx.scene.layout.Resizable;
public class ProgressBar extends CustomNode, Resizable{
public var min: Number;
public var max: Number = 100.0;
public var value: Number;
public var background: Paint = Color.rgb(118,149,178);
public var foreground: Paint = Color.rgb(216,219,225);
public var font = bind Font{name: "Courier Bold Italic" size: height - borderWidth * 8};
public var arcWidth: Number = 20;
public var arcHeight: Number = 50;
public var borderStroke: Color = Color.BLACK;
public var borderWidth: Number = 1;
public var fontPaint: Paint = Color.LIGHTGRAY;
public var showPercentage = true;
var progressText: Text;
var backgroundText: Text;
var progessBar: Rectangle;
var range = bind Math.abs(max - min);
var percentComplete: Number = bind if(max != 0) { (
value - min) / max
} // if
else {0.0;} // else;
var currentX = bind percentComplete * width;
var blurX: Number = 30;
var progressString: String = bind "%%{%.0f (percentComplete*100)}";
var progressValue = bind "{%.2f value}";
var progressHeight = bind height - borderWidth * 4;
var blurAnim = Timeline {
repeatCount: Timeline.INDEFINITE
autoReverse: true
keyFrames: [
at(0s) { blurX => 0.0 }
at(2s) { blurX =>
currentX - progressHeight / 2 tween Interpolator.EASEBOTH }
var playing = bind visible on replace{
if(playing) {
blurAnim.play();
}else {
blurAnim.stop();
public override function create(): Node {
return Group {
content: [
Rectangle { //background
width: bind width
height: bind height
fill: bind background
stroke: bind borderStroke
strokeWidth: bind borderWidth
arcWidth: bind arcWidth
arcHeight: bind arcHeight
cache: true
backgroundText = Text { // Text over Background
layoutX: bind (width - backgroundText.layoutBounds.width) / 2
layoutY: bind (height - backgroundText.layoutBounds.height) / 2
textOrigin: TextOrigin.TOP
font: bind font
fill: bind foreground
content: bind if(showPercentage) progressString else progressValue
cache: true
Group {
content: [
progessBar = Rectangle { // Progress
layoutX: bind borderWidth
layoutY: bind borderWidth * 2
width: bind currentX
height: bind progressHeight
fill: bind foreground
arcWidth: bind arcWidth
arcHeight: bind arcHeight
Ellipse {
centerX: bind blurX
centerY: bind height / 2
radiusX: bind progressHeight
radiusY: bind progressHeight / 2
fill: Color.rgb(255,255,255,.7)
effect: GaussianBlur{ radius: 30
Text { // Text Over Progress Bar, this has to be in progressBar coordinate space
x: bind (width - backgroundText.layoutBounds.width) / 2
y: bind (height - backgroundText.layoutBounds.height) / 2
textOrigin: TextOrigin.TOP
font: bind font
fill: bind background
content: bind if(showPercentage) progressString else progressValue
clip: bind progessBar
}, // Text
] // 2nd content
} // 2nd Group
] // 1st content
}; // 1st Group
} // public override function create(): Node
} // public abstract class ProgressBar extends CustomNode, Resizeable
function run(args:String[]):Void {
var stage: Stage = Stage {
title: "Progress Bar"
scene: Scene {
width: 925
height: 60
content: ProgressBar {
layoutX: 10
layoutY: 10
width: 890
height: 35
value: 80
} // content: ProgressBar
} // scene: Scene
} // var stage: Stage = Stage
} // function run(args:String[]):Void
I use RESTful ws to get the progress of the billing run, which is the loadProgressdata() method in the main.fx, and everything was working fine until we did the javafx sdk 1.2 update. With the update in place, I recompiled the project and found that "Resizable" in
the "public class ProgressBar extends CustomNode, Resizable" was throwing an error when the project was recompiled. I made some changes(mainly adding variables for height and width) but now when the program runs, the backing rectangle appears along with the
percentage of billing progress, but the progress part(2nd rectangle) does not appear with the glow effect. I have read about using "getPrefWidth()" and "getPrefHeight()" methods, but not really sure how I would use them. I can't make the public class ProgressBar extends CustomNode, Resizable abstract as I need to instantiate in the Main.fx.
Can anyone shed some light on what might need to be done to get this running correctly again. I don't need anyone the give me the exact code, but just to point me in the correct direction.

Can you post your code again between "{ code} ... {code }" tags ? Some symbols are missing if copy/pasted.
That said, your preferred width and height, simply return the width and height of your component. What I discovered recently is using LayoutInfo on controls to set the preferred width and height. These are the dimensions the surrounding container (VBox, HBox, Flow, ....) will use to arrange size and position of the enclosed components. So maybe you won't need Resizable any more. Simply fill in the layoutInfo property.
Edited by: Java.Artisan on Jun 26, 2009 11:25 AM
Edited by: Java.Artisan on Jun 26, 2009 11:26 AM

I need help with adding fire to an existing picture in elements 8

I'm a painting contractor and I'm trying to create a new picture for my buisness cards and tee shirts. What I want to do is put flames coming from a brush and work pot that I'm holding in my hands. I've looked everywhere on line, but I can't find exactly what I want. I'm hoping that someone in this forum will be able to help me. Thanks.

Okay, I have been playing with for a few days. Warning, this is going to be loooong. I do this differently in Photoshop but couldn't get it to work with the elements workset as it doesn't have the curves tool that Photoshop has so I had to find an alternate method to pump up the flames. Luckily, I ran into a video that used a method other than curves to get me on track. I assumed you want realistic flames...so I was pushing for how real could I make flames using paint and blend mode operations.
Edit: I should let you know that you can try to extract flames from other photos and composite them into your photo. First, need a good fire image. It works best if you can find a fire with a black background. Screen blend mode will drop out black. Try working with two copies of the image. Turn off the topmost copy of the flames. Leave the bottom flames in Normal blend mode. Mask or erase the outer edges of the flames with a soft brush so that only the interior of the flames are visible. Now, turn on the topmost version of the flames. Leave the topmost version of the intact...don't mask or erase anything. Change this topmost flame layer's blend mode to screen blend mode. If you see any problems with your flames, you can erase or mask any defects. You can duplicate the screen layer to brighten the effect. Use opacity to control the volume. This would be the easiest solution but you'll have to find some flames that trip your fancy. I haven't tried this out yet so can't say how much better or worse it would be than using a good set of flame brushes along with some blend mode tricks.
Below shows how close I can get using paint. I only used options available in PSE. I used layer masks that if you had PSE 9 would be native. Since you have PSE 8, you'll need to either download an install an add on that adds the basic layer mask function or use clipping masking.
Below is a link to a freeware set that includes layer masks. Install instructions are on that site.
http://www.cavesofice.org/~grant/Challenge/Tools/Files.html
If you want to go the clipping mask route, have a look at this tutorial:
http://www.photokaboom.com/photography/learn/Photoshop_Elements/layers/layer_groups_clippi ng_masks/1_layer_groups_clipping_masks.htm
Before and After the effect.
I would have posted sooner but had to find a workable solution to making the flames look realistic in Elements as I can’t use the curves tool as it isn’t native to Elements.
With the help of this YouTube video I came up with something…
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cOIBkWvHOqk&feature=related
I based this tutorial on the hue/sat numbers, blend modes, and blurs.
First, I downloaded a flame brush set. This set in specific:
http://luexo.deviantart.com/art/Scorching-Flames-Brushpack-92945924
The above set is really nicely done and has large high resolution brushes.
One thing I do not agree with in the video is the color used. White is hard to change in the Hue/Saturation dialog. Instead I use 50% gray as my paint color. This is easy to set…either use the 50% color swatch or open the Color Picker and set H to 0, S to 0, and B to 50...hex number is 808080.
Things to keep in mind include fire is gaseous, bright and the way it burns…it one direction, fire reflects and there is probably going to be some smoke.
In my example, I am going to set a lunch cake. Nice 4th of July theme. J
Let’s start my scorching the item that will be burned. In this case the lunch cake will be scorched.
Scorch the item…preparing to light it up.
1. Duplicate image and put image into Linear burn blend mode; opacity 100%. Add layer mask or erase everything but the item to be scorched…the lunch cake.
2. Duplicate layer you just made in step #1. Change the blend mode to Multiply 100%. Desaturate this layer. Image Adjustments<Hue/Saturation…move Master Saturation slider to -100. Take burn tool set to Range: Midtones; Exposure 35%; air brush on…and scorch the item. Make it kind of smudgy. You don’t want an even coat. Make it darker as you get closer to the flames.
Note: Here I’ve jumped ahead. I already know where my flames are going to be. Either visualize where you want your flames or jump ahead and laid down the basic paint and transform into the correct position. Turn off flame layer (s) when done. So step #3 if you do any repair work isn’t affected.
3. If you feel you need to do any clone repairs, create a composite image ctrl + shift + alt + e if on PC…cmd + shift + opt + e if on a Mac. Do the clone work on a blank layer over this. With clone tool selected, check the box in the options bar that says something like “All Layers”, “Use All Layers”, “Sample All Layers”…the box says one of those things beside it. I can’t recall which and not sure if it’s consistent between all versions of Elements. Anyway, Leave layer in Normal blend mode 100% and likewise leave tool in Normal blend mode…opacity to taste. Fix any defects on this layer. You can do the same thing with the healing brush if you need to do any healing. I find it best to heal to a separate layer and not mix and match the healing tool and clone stamp on the same layer.
4. Turn off or trash the Clone Stamp comp layer when finished with step #3.
Let’s Build a Fire…
5. Create a blank layer in the layers palette….Normal blend mode; 100% opacity. Make white your foreground color chip. Grab the paint brush tool…normal blend mode; 100% opacity. Paint one flame on your layer. I have used the 1220 sized flame near the bottom of the brush set I linked earlier. Use the transform command …Ctrl + t (PC) or Cmd + t (Mac)…to size and position the flame. I used also slightly warped the flame using transform warp. Since you don’t have that in Elements…slightly warp the flame in the liquefy dialog.
Note: The above flame is pretty much backlighting…you are done with it.
6. Change the color foreground color chip in your layers palette to 50% gray. Use the same brush tip you used in step #5. Size and position it so it closely matches the white flame in Step #5. Go to liquefy dialog and slightly warp it.
Note: The goal is for the flames in step #5 and step #6 to be very similar but not exact.
7.. Duplicate the 50% gray flame you made in step #6 twice. Turn off the top 50% gray flame for now.
Fire is Bright...
8. Now that video comes in that I linked.
(1) Blur the 50% gray flame with Gaussian blur. I used 6 pixels. Go to menu and click Enhance or is it Adjustments<Hue/Saturation…check the box that says “colorize”; change master sliders to Hue 42; Saturation 100; Lightness 0.
(2)Duplicate the flame you made above…step (1). Go to the menu bar and click Enhance or is it Adjustment<Hue/Saturation…change master sliders to Hue -43; saturation 0; Lightness 0. Change this layers blend mode to Color Dodge blend mode and merge down…Ctrl + e on PC; cmd + e on Mac.
Note: This layer will now say Normal blend mode; 100%.
(3)I duplicated the merged layer I now have from step (2). I changed the blend mode of this layer to Screen and set the opacity to 100%.
(4) I made a duplicate of the layer I have made in step (2)…the one that now says it’s in Normal blend mode; 100%… then blurred it with Gaussian blur. I used 46 pixels. I moved this layer down in my layers palette so that it rests beneath my other two colored flame layers. The white flame layer is directly below it. Leave this layer in Normal blend mode; 100% opacity.
9. Go back to 50% gray flame you made in step #6...visibility eye should be off. You should have two of these gray layers if not duplicate one so that you do have tow 50% gray flame layers. (These were not blurred.) These two layers need to be on the top of the stack. If they are not, move them up so that they are the top two layers. Turn on the visibility of the bottom 50% gray layer. Change the layer’s blend mode to Screen blend mode; opacity 100%. Grab the burn tool. Burn some of the flame base and randomly in the flame of the 50% gray. Press and hold in the alt key (PC) or the opt key (Mac) and dodge the tops of the flames and do some random dodge work.
10. Turn on the visibility for the top 50% gray layer. Leave this one alone…no dodge + burn. Set this layer to Screen blend mode; opacity 96%.
11. Add layer masks to white and color flame layers…not the gray ones. Paint away any unattractive color spill. Bright orange edges…bright white distractions where flame edges don’t align.
12. Make a composite layer of all layers up to date. Set this layer’s blend mode to multiply; opacity 47%. Add a layer mask and mask out everything but the flames. Tip: You can select the flames by ctrl + shift clicking on each flame layer thumbnail…the shift lets you add to a selection. On the Mac, cmd + shift click the layer thumbnails.
Flames Reflect…
13. Make a copy of one of your blurred color flames. Transform it so it rest over item that it should reflect on. In this case I have added a blurred flame onto my son’s eye. The flame is in Overlay blend mode; 33% opacity.
14 Several steps Eye enhancements to my son’s eye…omitted because it’s off topic
15. I used a gradient map with a fire like black/red/yellow/white gradient map set to Softlight blend mode; 17% to give my image a hint of a color cast. I masked it so only some skin, hair, and car areas have this slight color cast.
Where there’s fire there is going to be some smoke...
16. To make my smoke, I made a separate large document my photo size. I set my color chips to the default b/w. (Shortcut is D.) I went to menu bar and clicked Filter<Render<Clouds. Next I went back to my menu bar and clicked Filter<Render<Difference Clouds. I used Ctrl + f to repeat the Difference Cloud filter until I was happy with the effect…looking for swirled black lines…kind of like lightning. (If on a Mac, use Cmd + f to repeat a filter. I then used the transform command to enlarge the pattern I made. Be sure to scale it so that height and width both are enlarged equally. Next, go to the men bar and select<All ; Edit<Crop. You want to do to get rid of the excess. I think I transformed my patter to something like 200% which makes the file really big. You can do it on your image file but because of file size the transform will take a really long time. When happy copy/paste or drag/drop this pattern into your photo file.
17. Now blur pattern really good using Gaussian blur. Now, add a layer mask to your pattern layer. Click the layer mask in the layers palette to target it and run the the clouds and difference clouds on the mask just as you do on the pattern layer. Just those filters…no blur.
Basic smoke pattern final
18. Duplicate this layer w mask twice. You should have three smoke copies. Turn off all but the bottom pattern copy. Use the paint brush and paint black in mask to hide the smoke everywhere but where you want to keep it. Set this layer’s blend mode to Multiply blend mode; opacity 15%.
View of the inside one of the smoke layer masks
19. Turn on the visibility of the next smoke pattern. Again use a black paint to paint where you don’t want paint. (Make this variable as you want the smoke to be varying opacity.) Layer blend mode Multiply; opacity 15%.
20. Turn on the visibility of the next smoke pattern…top one in stack. Again use black to paint where you don’t want the smoke. Set this layer’s blend mode to Multiply blend mode; opacity 1%.
Fire is Gaseous...
21. Make a composite of all layers by pressing ctrl + shift + alt + e if on PC. Use Cmd + shift + opt + e if on a Mac. Blur your composite image. I used 3 pixels. Set the blend mode to Normal; opacity 64%. Add a layer mask and fill it with black paint to hide the blur effect. Use the paint brush with white paint in the layer mask to blur any sharp edges and base of flames. Remember flame is gaseous.
Above shows my layers for completed image. Notice the comp for clone layer is off. I did not need it after I did the clone to a blank layer to add some scorched cake around my son's fingers.

I bought a iphone 4 32gb verizon from apple store 4-7-11 had problem receaver exchanged 12-11 next one died no battery power works with cord dead without so 4-6-12 made apointment apple store emeryville ca they said leap year too late out of warrenty,

i bought a iphone 4 32gb verizon from apple store 4-7-11 3:00pm, had problem with receaver no sound could not hear person i called exchanged 12-11 exchanged iphone 4 32gb verizon died no battery power works with cord dead without so 4-6-12 made next available apointment apple store bay st. emeryville ca for 4-7-12 1:15pm
they said leap year added extra day so too late out of warrenty, sorry but can sell you new one i called apple said same , a company that big should take care of customers the origanel receipt should of said under date of purchess warrnty to end date following year,

That's strange, because no where in the iPhone's limited warranty does it state "365 days", but it does state 1 year. I think the only way they could get out of that is because of the battery, which is not covered by the warranty. HOWEVER, it is stated on AT&T's website that claims are handled from 31-365 days, which would explain why the Apple people acted as such. I know you have Verizon, but since it is (essentially) the same device, it's under the same warranty.
http://www.att.com/esupport/article.jsp?cv=820&sid=KB64687#fbid=MG9VDbF7hX1
Many people have had stories about issues happening as soon as their warranty expires, with products in general.
I'd just consider upgrading, and selling your old one.

Adobe premiere pro for Mac, why is there no playback / severe lag after adding effects? What can I d

I recently added effects to a number of clips in Adobe Premiere pro, now the playback has virtually stopped and is lagging. It will play for a mili second then pause.
Computer information:
Hardware Overview:
Model Name:          MacBook Pro
Model Identifier:          MacBookPro8,1
Processor Name:          Intel Core i5
Processor Speed:          2.4 GHz
Number of Processors:          1
Total Number of Cores:          2
L2 Cache (per Core):          256 KB
L3 Cache:          3 MB
Memory:          4 GB
Intel HD Graphics 3000:
Chipset Model:          Intel HD Graphics 3000
Type:          GPU
Bus:          Built-In
VRAM (Total):          384 MB
Vendor:          Intel (0x8086)
Device ID:          0x0126
Revision ID:          0x0009

With an i5 and only 4Gig of ram, your computer is under powered to edit HD video
What are you editing, and what effects are you using?
Report back with the codec details of your file, use the programs below... A screen
shot works well to SHOW people what you are doing
http://forums.adobe.com/thread/592070?tstart=30
For Mac http://mediainspector.massanti.com/

Power Ups with added effects

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for