PRAM BATTERY PB Aluminum 15" - Can a guy just replace little "disc" battery

Hi,
Within the PRAM battery of the Albook 15" is the little disc battery. It's held down by the retention arm and it seams that a person can slip the disc out and not have to buy the whole circuit board and cable.
Has any one done this? And if so, where do you get the battery?
Thanks

IIRC, the little arms are welded to the the disc battery. Otherwise, you could be right, if you could find the correct battery.

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Restart with the Option key held down.
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Can I disconect PRAM battery permanently ?

I have PB G3 with few problems,first main battery is dead and that is the reason why PRAM backup baterry is also dead.I can turn the G3 on,only if I disconect PRAM battery from the I/0 logic board.So,my question is very simple(I don't belive the answer will be the same): Can I permanently disconect PRAM battery ?
I don't care for time,date and other mambo jumbo that this battery store.Can this harm logic board or any other part of G3 ?
The main reason for all this is that make no economical sense to buy new main and PRAM battery considering the price of second hand G3.
I intend to use G3 only for writting.
Any help will be appreciated

Phil,
Yes, you can run without the PRAM battery. The reason the 'book will not start without disconnecting this battery is that it has developed an internal short that prevents the power manager from working properly.
If you disconnect the PRAM battery and leave the power adapter connected, see if the time/date is maintained when performing a cold start (not restart)...I am curious.
Your 'book will prompt you to reset the time/date if it has been lost, and I would do so when starting up so documents, files, preferences that are modified, etc, do not get completely out of whack. Correct dating of files makes everything easier by far.
If you do not plan on replacing the main battery, a new rechargeable backup battery (PRAM battery) would run flat after about 5 hours when you disconnected the power adapter, then time/date would be lost. The main purpose of the backup battery is to allow swapping of main batteries during sleep without the power adapter.
I see no reason why any damage would occur to hardware without a working PRAM battery.

Does a 12" PowerBook have a PRAM battery on the logic board?

We got an 867MHz 12" Aluminum PowerBook in today that doesn't seem to want to hold PRAM values any longer than 5 minutes. It doesn't seem to matter if it's plugged in and using the AC adapter as the source or the battery (as long as it's charged, of course ).
I've gone through the typical battery of tests, like removing the Airport, add-on RAM, etc. but the problems persist. To get the item to boot, I've been repeatedly resetting the PMU (shift-option-command + power button) followed by a PRAM reset (option-command-P-R + power button) and eventually it will chime and start to boot. I suspect that I can end up isolating this to a specific set of steps. One of the oddities I've noticed is that when doing this, the power isn't actually off. For example, if I do the PRAM reset, the item will appear to be dead, but if I hit the caps lock key it's clear that the power is still on.
Once the item boots, I can power it on and off, and it will reboot, as long as I don't let it sit any more than 5 minutes. If I let it sit 5 minutes or more, then I need to go through this whole reset game again.
I've seen stuff like this happen on PCs that often have ROM/PROM batteries installed (sometimes removable, sometimes soldered to the board) that retain system settings. There seems to be something that looks like one of these batteries installed on this motherboard, but none of Apple's tech repair manuals reference replacing it, and it almost looks like its welded to a connector, but then again I'm not sure it's even a battery.
So the question is: Does this motherboard have a PRAM battery on it that's failing? If there is one, is there a replacement or replacement kit available, or am I barking up the wrong tree all together?
Thanks in advance.

From what I can tell, this device uses a "mega capacitor" to maintain the charge on the memory. It looks almost like a battery that I put into one of my old cameras. This capacitor sits between the trackpad and the optical drive. The owner of this system did a DVD upgrade himself and it appears in the process he actually knocked this capacitor off it's base on the mother board. It superficially APPEARS to be connected because there's a bar on the top end of the capacitor soldered to the motherboard that's holding it in place, but the bottom end broke off the motherboard.
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1. The PRAM and NVRAM has a high impedance, and when the mega capacitor is properly connected and without power, the discharge rate based on the RC time constant is very long (probably weeks...maybe months).
2. When power is turned off it's the duty of this effective RC network to maintain PRAM and NVRAM since the discharge rate is so slow.
3. With this capacitor busted off, the only capacitance that exists in the circuit is likely that of RF bypass capacitors and any other capacitors that may be used to filter out the supply. Since these are likely much, much lower in value the RC time constant becomes minutes instead of days/weeks/months.
I think this is a good theory for the following reasons:
1. If the unit sits, powered off, for any amount of time greater than 3-4 minutes and it's powered up, the unit comes on, but the CPU doesn't start processing. The optical media initializes, the caps lock key will light, and if you listen closely to the unit you can hear stuff running....but the CPU doesn't start. The conjecture is that the all PRAM/NVRAM parameters have been lost and when the CPU starts it sees nothing there and hence, does nothing. The unit is actually running, it just doesn't do anything.
2. If the unit sits, powered off, for any amount of time greater than 3-4 minutes, the following process will allow it to start up:
a. Turn the power on and leave it on for about 2-3 minutes. This is the dysfunctional state identified above, but what seems to be happening is that the effective RC network is being charged.
b. After several minutes, turn the unit off and then immediately turn it on.
c. The unit boots successfully.
d. We can turn the unit off, and turn it on again, and it will successfully boot as long as we do it relatively quickly (within a minute or two), but if it's left off more than that then the "game" identified in steps a-c must be repeated.
To me this implies the unit relies completely on the "mega-capacitor" to retain voltage on the PRAM/NVRAM. It sort of makes sense because the equivalent impedance of a battery is low compared to that of the RAM chips and it would have the effect of limiting the RC time constant needed for the unit to retain it's PRAM/NVRAM parameters for a very long period of time. That isn't to say the battery isn't supplying anything to the unit when power is off...it may very well be, but I suspect it simply isn't doing it to this circuit.
Does this theory make sense?

6400 PowerPc Performa Pram Battery issues - remove for storage?

Hello,
I have a 6400 that I want to use, primarily for storage of some older files, which I've now transferred onto it.
The unit obviously has a weak 4.5 volt alkaline Pram Battery as the Clock reverts to 1956 when is unplugged overnight.
My specific question is:
With all these vintage Performa's, will they work correctly and consistantly WITHOUT a Pram battery in them at all? (Realizing that the time must be set each time up).
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Hence to iterate, will these units maintain the factory settings better and more consistantly WITHOUT a battery than with a Weak one, not losing the ability to come up.
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Jeff,
Thanks on your 64/6500's. I'm going to do just that.
My question was partly technical curiosity in that I've seen and read dozens of problematic symptoms from bad or weak batteries, and none of the answers ever said JUST TAKE
them out and leave them out until . . .
On that basis, I still can't quite figure out how all that relates to CUDA resets on a unit with problems. On most Performa's the board must be out to reset CUDA, and it would seem that the board would need power to reset?? (I'm speaking of a unit that is down, perhaps with a question mark or no hard drive showing, etc.) I'll keep reading.
FYI, I did make a battery pack fm 3 aa batteries for the 6360. Found one really interesting tidbit on AppleFritters, saying also that a 9 Volt battery has two 4.5's inside, and one guy used ONE of those.
Lowell
I removed the batteries from my retired 6400s and
6500s, primarily to prevent leakage (as Grant has
mentioned). I've seen the corrosive damage to
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from those batteries. When I periodically start up
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Other than that inconvenience, the computers
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Dead iMac G3 suddenly won't power on. PRAM battery or Power Supply?

iMac G3 350 slot load USB only running 10.4.11
i love this little guy.
it's been running almost non stop for a few years as a file server... only restarted maybe a dozen times during that period. i can't remember ever shutting it down.
i had to move it recently. might have been unplugged from a wall socket for a minute or so. plugged it back in but left it powered off for a few days.
went to turn it on recently and nothing. not a chime, not a light, not a click or hard drive spin-up. zero. pushed the PMU reset button once. still nothing. i've taken the PRAM battery out for now.
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thanks!

Hello Nicholas,
I recently retired my hard working 350 slot so I know how great the computer can be.
Unplugging for a moment should not have affected the battery.
I would respectfully suggest you start with the simple things such as:
1. - Make certain the power source is not on a switch and that it is good
2. - Be certain the power chord is fully seated in the back of the computer and wall socket.
3. - If trying to start from the keyboard button, try using the button on the face of the computer
perhaps the keyboard is not fully plugged into the usb port.
I always like to start with the simple things when I have a problem.
Now that the battery is removed it could cause a bit of a problem. I think I would install the battery
and check the above mentioned ideas. If still no power, then I would replace the battery.
It doesn;t seem logical that the power supply would just go as a result of the board.
I would try to get the computer up and running.
One last tip.......when my slot load was starting to go it acted odd. I would let the computer sit for a day or two and it would then start. It was irratic at best but the old computer allowed me a few last
boots so that I could back up to my external.
It is a great computer and sounds like it served you well it deserves a few chances.
I hope you replace the battery, plug and it re-starts. Keep it plugged in once the battery is replaced/returned .....Best of Luck Jim

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I have an Aluminum Powerbook G4 17" 1.33 GHz computer and need to replace the PRAM battery. This poses a problem. Typically they sell the PRAM battery/USB board as one replacement because the two rechargeable 3.7 v coin CGL 2430 batteries are spot welded & soldered to the USB board in parallel. The replacement part is 922-6064. When I look for a replacement, all I can find are used parts which mean that the batteries have a diminished life. Panasonic stopped making those batteries in 2005 and I can't find anything comparable. Even the places that advertise new parts say they only have used in the end. Next model up, the 1.5 GHz Apple made a battery pack that can be replaced. NewerTech makes that replacement. I would like to replace the batteries on my present USB board - new ones can be soldered or a plug can be added, but I have run into these problems. Those coin batteries are not available and I know the voltage, but not the amperage of those coin batteries that were used. NewerTech can't tell me the voltage/amperage of their battery pack for the newer version Powerbooks, so I don't know if jury-rigging one of those packs would work with my version of the Powerbook. I can't find Apple's specs anywhere for the voltage/amps that should go into the PRAM/USB boards in the 1.33 model and the 1.5GHz model so that I can figure how to do this repair modification. The USB boards for both models look the same, but I don't think that they are, but what is the difference? Anyone have an idea how I can do this modification to add PRAM power to my USB board?

Actually, this is a very minor problem, if the negligible incidence of posts here about replacement PRAM batteries dying is any indication. Apparently there are very, very few users of Powerbooks (going all the way back to the G3s of 1998-2001) whose use of these machines has outlasted a second PRAM battery. I still have a working 2003 Titanium Powerbook with its original PRAM battery in place, a working 1998 Powerbook G3 with its original PRAM battery in place, and a working 1997 Powerbook 1400C with its original PRAM battery in place. I doubt that new replacements are available for any of those batteries, but I wouldn't hesitate to buy used ones if I intended to use any of those computers for several more years. I suggest you go ahead and do the same, and install the used battery yourself to keep the cost down.
Message was edited by: eww

Computer clock resets to 1969. PRAM battery probably not the issue.

I have a PowerMac G4 mirrored doors computer running Tiger 10.4.11 that occasionally starts up with that error message saying: "Your computer's clock is set to a date before March 24th, 2001. This may cause some applications to behave erratically."
I know all about resetting the PRAM, resetting the NVRAM, and replacing a weak, or expired battery. I've read the relevant posts on the subject, in which well-intentioned guides say that the problem is "usually" or "generally" related to the PRAM battery. Well, I wish it could be that simple, because I have already had a new battery installed, and the problem continues. It is intermittent; it's been occurring for about six months now; and it persists.
I seek technical assistance and successful, problem-solving suggestions that go beyond merely suggesting that I zap the PRAM or replace the battery.
If there are potential SOFTWARE problems, please direct me to those potentially damaged files. None of the disk utilities that I have used—including Disk Warrior, TechTool Pro, OnyX, Cocktail, or Drive Genius— find anything wrong with my hard drive or the files on it. No corrupted resources are reported. Additionally, Intego's Virus Barrier finds no infected files either.
However, a FileBuddy search of files modified before 3/25/2001 finds several dozen files with improbable dates of 12/31/1969 or 1/1/1970. Fewer files dated 12/31/1969 occur after I go to the Date/Time preferences pane and reset the clock to the current date/time and then restart my computer, especially in regards to system-related files. Nonetheless, several dozen files with a 12/31/1969 still remain, even after the date/time reset and the system restart.
I do not know if any of those pre-historic files are playing a role in this chronic problem, so I offer that information for the technically more astute to ponder upon and factor in to any solutions which might be offered. I have read posts where someone might suggest a re-install of Tiger, but the original poster almost always reports that re-installing Tiger did not eliminate problem, so I would prefer suggestions that rely on a scalpel rather than a sledge hammer.
If someone suspects that there may be hardware problem, I would like to hear theories along that line, too, although I am unlikely to consider gutting the hardware items just to retain the attractive computer case. Even though I do have other computers (an iMac G5 and a MacBook Pro), the PowerMac G4 is my preferred workhorse, and it is the only one configured to run Final Cut Pro (version 4.5; I can't afford to upgrade now), so I want to keep it functional without a major investment into an older machine.
When the computer clock problem first reared its irritating head several months ago, it was accompanied with kernel crashes that turned out to be related to the nVidia video card. I brought the machine in to a local shop, because it was refusing to power on. They installed a new battery to replace the original, probably weak original battery, and they replaced the probably defective nVidia video card with a used nVidia card I found on eBay. The shop also claimed that I needed to replace the motherboard and the power supply to ensure that the G4 would power on and that it would present a desktop without the warning message about the computer clock being set to 12/31/1969.
I decided to reject their assessment, since the whole repair job would have amounted to about $1,100. It seemed like an excessive solution. Since taking the G4 back about three months ago with only the new battery and the replacement video card installed, the computer has powered on every single time without fail, which, to my non-technician mind, would appear to indicate that the power supply is OK. However, I do still get an occasional warning about the computer clock being set to a date before March 24th, 2001.
I do not have the technical expertise or repair knowledge to know if the problem is hardware-related, software-related, power supply-related, or a complex interaction between all of them. If someone can suggest a permanent fix to eliminate the computer clock error problem WITHOUT requiring me to make a major investment in repairing or replacing hardware components, that would be ideal. On the other hand, if this clock problem is merely is an irritant, but not a sign of something more serious or expensive, then I am willing to live with it and get around the problem by going through the steps of resetting the clock when required and then restarting the computer with a correctly set clock.
My main goal, of course, is to have a reliable, stable computer. If it costs too much to eliminate the computer clock irritation on a permanent basis, then I am willing to live with the problem, as long as its presence does not disrupt my work flow. In that case, I would appreciate it if someone could explain what might be going on, so that I know what to expect and what to do about it.
I hope this is sufficient information with which to make a diagnosis and recommendation. If not, ask for more. Thanks.
bowlerboy

Short answer =
5) Upon reboot after re-connection and re-start, the Date & Time shows...
a) in the Date & Time pane: 12/31/1969 at 7:00 PM, and counting
b) in the Finder's menu bar: 7:00 PM, and counting
What do the results of this test tell you? Is this a software or a hardware problem?
======================================================================
Long answer =
Thanks, BDAqua, for offering your help. I'm not exactly new to these forums, but somehow my previous contributions have all been wiped out, so I've restarted under a new account name.
I've had my G4 MDD for five years, and it's always been quite stable for me, so I'm not quite sure that this model is "cantankerous." I do find the computer clock error message irritating, though, so it would be nice to know the source of the problem and its permanent solution.
Since my original posting, I elected not to Shut Down the G4 to see what would happen. It functioned just fine since then, allowing me to create some short Final Cut Pro movies as Christmas presents to family members. With one exception, all other applications also functioned without problems. The only problem I'm encountering has to do with H-P Photosmart Studio, an application bundled with the HP All-in-one model C7280. It will not settle down to work, forcing me to Force Quit it every time. Since that app works fine on my iMac G5, I decided to trouble-shoot it by reinstalling the HP software, a process that requires me to Shut Down. (If possible, I want to see if the problem is with the HP software, or with Tiger on my G4.)
However, before I can get even get to trouble-shooting the HP Photosmart, the G4 gives me that computer clock error upon re-boot. In the past, the Date & Time error message has appeared upon a cold reboot, no matter whether I had reset the Date & Time in the preference pane via the Network clock or manually. However, I never conducted my tests in conjunction with disconnecting the A/C power cable. So, I decided to try the the test you suggested. Here are my observations and the results of the test.
1) Upon Shut Down, cool down, and restart, I get the computer clock error message mentioned at the beginning of my original post, telling me that my clock is set to a earlier date.
2) When I open the Date & Time preferences pane, however, the date and time shown there (as well as on the Finder's menu bar) is current.
3) The Network setting was ON, so, to comply with this test, I unchecked the "Set date & time automatically" box. I do not need to reset date and time manually, because, as I mentioned they ARE set correctly, even though the message I got upon restart said that they are not. (If memory serves me correctly, though, the Date & Time panel would actually show 12/31/69 as the computer clock's read-out, so this discrepancy is somehow connected to this problem. )
4) I shut down the G4 for 2 hours, and I disconnected all cables and plugs to it, including A/C power.
5) Upon reboot after re-connection and re-start, the Date & Time shows...
a) in the Date & Time pane: 12/31/1969 at 7:00 PM, and counting
b) in the Finder's menu bar: 7:00 PM, and counting.
6) I take screen captures of the error message and the menu bar: both .PNG files are time-stamped as of 12/31/1969 at around 7:01 PM.
7) I will now reset the clock to the current Date and Time by turning the Network time feature back on, so I can get on with my work while the trouble-shooting process continues.
What do the results of this test tell you? Is this a software or a hardware problem?
If it's a software problem, then should I do I clean install of Tiger? If I do that, is there any evidence that a clean install will do any good to eradicate the problem?
On the other hand, if this is a hardware issue, is it contained to merely being an irritant that I can fix merely by adjusting the Date & Time whenever the problem occurs (which I can live with, as long as the system is stable after that fix), or is this error message regarding a sign of something more ominous failing on the motherboard?
bowlerboy

My IPhone shut off by itself and I can't turn it back on. My lock screen button is broken and I tried plugging it into the wall but nothing happened. Can you guys please help me.

My IPhone shut off by itself and I can't turn it back on. My lock screen button is broken and I tried plugging it into the wall but nothing happened. Can you guys please help me.

IIf the battery was completely drained it might take some time before the phone will respond. Wait at least 30 minutes with the phone connected to the charger. Then reset your device. Press and hold the Home and Sleep buttons simultaneously until the Apple logo appears. Let go of the buttons and let the device restart. If the phone starts up let it continue to charge until it's 100%.
if the broken button will not let you do the reset Make an appointment at an Apple Store to have your device examined by a technician. Or contact Apple Support.

Hard drive 6 gb/s and PRAM battery questions

I have two questions:
1) Does iMac Core Duo 20'' (early 2006 first intel model) support 6 gb/s hard drive (I recently bought a WESTERN DIGITAL Sata III 6 Gb / s buffer 64 Mb 7200 rpm)? when I will upgrade my hard drive it will recognize 6 gb/s speed data transfer? or it will recognize lesser?
2) Can I use any 3V Lithium CR2032 coin Battery as PRAM battery replacement on my iMac? I know that its 3V CR2032 from Mactracker or nay other sites from internet, but I would like to know if I can use a battery from any brand or shoul I get the exact same of the one apple use?
thanks!

1.5 Gb/s is the controller transfer speed for that model. SATA 3 at 6 Gb/s didn't arrive until after those computers were produced. SATA 2 can be jumpered down to 1.5 Gb/s (WD SATA 2 drives will use jumpers on pins 5&6), which you may or may not have to do, depending on the drive.
Not a guess. The WD drive you bought won't work.
You don't need the ridiculously overpriced Apple battery.
Specs here.
http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/imac/stats/imac_cd_2.0_20.html

How Necessary is PRAM battery on MacBook Pro (c2d intel 2.13, model a1211)

Hello Everyone, I stupidly broke the socket/clip where the pram battery attaches to the logic board on my Macbook Pro (c2d Intel 2.13). Unfortunately, since the socket/clip is a surface mount component and the way it broke (I don't see solder pads) I'm unable to re-solder the clip back on to the motherboard. Here's a picture of what I'm talking about (borrowed from someone else who apparently did the same thing): http://yfrog.com/6ximg0870nj
My first question is if anyone knows how vital the pram battery is to a Intel Macbook? It seems that the laptop works fine without the pram battery. Is the battery only necessary to retain pram settings if the main laptop battery is removed and the power adapter disconnected?
Second question is whether there is any alternative to repair the logic board other than get an entirely new board? The laptop is recently out of warranty (Applecare expired earlier this year) and I don't believe that Apple would have covered this since I caused the damage myself.
Third question(s) is whether it would cause any problems to use the logic board out of a c2d 2.33 a1211 macbook pro (I can get my hands on one for a pretty reasonable price)? The only difference I can see between the two boards is the clock speed of the main processor and the amount of video ram. Would there be any advantage to using this logic board? Doesn't seem like the speed bump and video ram would do to much.
Thanks in advance for any comments/help you can offer.

Much obliged. So it sounds like the only time this will be an issue is if I disconnect the regular battery and the power supply at the same time. The rational thing to do here is to just live with it rather than blowing hundreds on the new logic board and risking additional damage during replacement.
I just wish I wasn't so OCD about this. Bothers me a bit to know that something is wrong with the laptop even if it doesn't manifest itself on a day to day basis.

Directions for changing pram battery on imac DV

Hi,
A friend of mine has an imac 400 DV slot loader with a dead pram battery. I look after this computer for them but have never changed the battery on one of these. Can anyone give me directions and/or photos? I've had a look through older questions but the links all seem to be out of date.
Thanks,
James

This Macworld article has photos that illustrate removal of the bottom housing and EMI shield, to access the motherboard for upgrades. Some experienced users have been able to replace the battery, by accessing it through the memory door on the bottom. This involves the risk of letting it slip out of your fingers and then having to maneuver/tilt the iMac about, to remove the loose battery. Prior to removal, you should note the battery's orientation as to polarity (marked on the motherboard).

PRAM BATTERY PB Aluminum 15" - Can a guy just replace little "disc" battery

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