Pre-purchase help – AVCHD/Motion JPEG and Panasonic TZ7...

Having searched, I've found a number of posts (and an Apple KBase article) highlighting the "incompatibility" of AVCHD format files (.mts) with iMovie.
I have been contemplating upgrading our compact "family" camera, and the new Panasonic DMC-TZ7 seems to fit the bill, as it appears to be the best 'hybrid' stills/video camera currently on the market (for me anyway). My old Fuji F30 had excellent low-light performance, so I was very interested in their latest F200EXR, but it's the added HD video capability (with zoom, stereo audio, wind-cut etc..etc.) on the Panasonic that wins it for me.....
I've had a DV camcorder for years (several in fact), and have never really used them to capture the kids growing up liked I'd hoped – mostly due to the 'inconvenience' of having carry both a stills and a video camera, and it ends up only coming out for 'special occasions'. Needing to replace the F30 prompted me to re-visit the possibility of a hybrid camera, and to me, the spec of the recently released TZ7 almost makes it a no-brainer!
I'm no stranger to video editing/encoding/transcoding etc.. (it's my day job!!), or creative apps (it's my night job!!), but as I can't get hold of a TZ7 in my local Jessops, I'd appreciate help from somone who has one.....
My understanding is that AVCHD (Lite) support is currently flaky both in iMovie and FCPro. I was certainly unable to directly import one of the posted sample .mts movies, or view it in Quicktime without conversion (to be expected). Hopefully (presumably?), Apple will add this support in Quicktime at some point down the line, or Panasonic will make a codec/plugin available.
Obviously, the AVCHD Lite files are going to be quite small, but the TZ7 can also record in a 'Quicktime friendly' Motion-JPEG format, 1280x720@30fps (albeit in a larger file size) which could either be viewed in the Finder, or ingested into iMovie or FCPro for editing as required.
I'd really appreciate knowing:
(a) what difference – if any – is there in the quality of the 2 formats off camera? and
(b) what are the different file sizes for a minute recording (noting that AVCHD format can be at 17, 13 or 9Mbps).....?
Hoping someone can help with this.

I use two (fairly) similar Panasonic cameras with iMovie, and have no problems at all.
One's the small Lumix LX2 (..and before that, the LX1..)
and the Panny FZ28..
I just take out the SD card from the camera and put that into a card reader, and import the images and movies into iPhoto. From there, I can import the movies into iMovie. Or I can just drag the movies off the card onto my Desktop, and then import from there into iMovie. (I find it's faster to read the images via a card reader rather than by connecting the camera(s) with their own special USB cord.)
The movies from the LX1/LX2 aren't hi-def, but are perfectly acceptable - except when the 'digital' zoom is used beyond the limits of the optical zoom, and then the movies look rather poor.
The FZ28 movies are hi-def (so-called) though only at 720p, not the "full-size" hi-def of 1920x1080. Nevertheless, they also look good.
The feature which drew me to the Panny cameras is that they can shoot stills, and movies, in 16x9 (widescreen) format at a 30fps frame rate ..so they can be "mixed'n'matched" with material shot by 'proper' camcorders, if required.
I'm in a rush at the moment, so I can't go into file sizes and all the rest, but you can download an instruction manual for the camera from the Panasonic website, and that'll list all the technical details you may want.
I use 8GB SDHC cards in my camera(s) and that gives about 33 mins recording time with the FZ28 (depending on complexity of the scene, amount of movement, etc). In fact I've just shot a wedding with the FZ28, and that's come out OK! (..Though I've used iMovie09's video adjustments to brighten up some of the material shot in a darkish room ..the low-light performance of these cameras, for video, doesn't match a proper 3-chip camcorder like the Sony FX1, though low-light stills can be excellent at 1600 ISO).
I haven't used the model you ask about - the TZ7 - but it's similar in spec to the two (three) mentioned above which I have used.
For your info, here's a short movie of material I shot with the LX2 and the FZ28, so that you can see what sort of quality they deliver: the image stabilisation's good, the video quality's good ..they're very good all-round performers for stills and video!

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Pre-purchase Q's - Pagemaker features and font "problems"

I am running a PB G4 17" 1.5 gig memory with B/W Postscript printers and a Brother Inkjet. I have not purchased Pages but i have been following this forum for several days.
Two pre-purchase questions.
I have used Pagemaker for a long, long time (my serial number is 02-201-xxxxx) going back to Mac SE's and II ci's. Pagemaker 7 will not run under 10.4.x even in classic (believe me I've tried, Adobe has tried and Apple has tried - but no luck). It will run classic under 10.3.x but I've come to the conclusion that it just ain't worth having a seperate FW start-up disk just for a decades old product.
I used Pagemaker primarily for marketing material, white papers, proposals and other documents that are mainly text with a few charts, graphs, callouts and some simple graphics. Some of the things that I liked was the "master" page concept (that is you could format and place text/objects on the master pages and they would appear on every page), that I had complete control of how the text "flowed" on a page (over, around, through and even over a graphic if I wasn't careful), and that I could "write" different parts of the document in a word processor and then "import" the text into Pagemaker making it flow wherever I wanted, even over multiple, non-contiguous pages.
Can I do this with Pages?
Second, since I've never used Pages i am not sure what the font/WYSIWYG discussions are all about. It seems that Pages does not display the text in the font/size/style selected. Am I correct or am I missing something?
Thank you

Hullo Pachyx:
To answer your last question first, I've been tempted to reply "OMG not this again!" to those who beat this old drum. It's a preconception from Appleworks and other programs, that you have to be able to run up all your fonts with the font name as a sample. Actually you can do this in Pages by piling all your fonts into a "favourites" collection; but frankly, why would you bother? Merely the font name is hardly sufficient sample to judge a font's usefulness, and if you're using fonts with any appreciation, you should really spend some time acquainting yourself with what you have before churning out fancified guff in them.
Sorry if you're of that ilk, but Pages does serious typography. Your access to fonts is - quickly, in actual use - via the Mac OsX font panel, immediately accessible from your tool bar or from Format / Font / Show Fonts in the menu. This does have the option to view a small sample of any selected font, but more importantly has an option in the cog-wheel box at the bottom right hand corner of it to "Manage Fonts." This brings up the Font Book, which has options to display an alpha-numeric sample of your font in any size you choose, the complete repertoire of your font to see all characters it has, or a custom option into which you can enter any text you choose to give a good view of your font in use: Like Ipso Lorum, or Caesar ad sum iam for te, whatever you prefer. There is also an option to view font info, and again you can bring up an alpha-numeric sample of reasonable, but not selectable, size by just double clicking on the font in Font Book; and there are other options back in the font panel to access any special features of the font, such as ligatures or alternative glyphs.
So anything you've heard about font deficiencies in Pages is nonsense. And Pages represents your typography, with all the right kerning details & etc on screen, as all too many programs don't. It takes a bit of detailed work, but you can also perform proper "leading" and kerning adjustment from the facilities that Pages provides. You've used what was a serious layout and publication program in Pagemaker. Pages is a new and worthy iteration of the same - for all the niggles you'll hear, that are endemic to software anyway.
So now to your first question. Of course it won't be easy to switch from anything you probably know like the back of your own hand. But you can, and the formula for success in this is to approach the new program afresh and on its own merits, and not befuddle your understanding of it with expectations of more of the same that you're used to. Pages provides many templates that may be useful on occasion, but might also primarily suggest the scope of what Pages can do. Once you've got the picture, and explored the menus, inspector panels and help, you'll find that the blank template will allow you a freedom that I doubt you'd find excelled much anywhere else at all.
As to the detail of that question. The answer really is that, although you will need to find new methods to do the same, you will find them readily enough to hand. I'd be inclined to recommend, though, that you first try these with new material, since reformatting a mixture of old and new will naturally enough require some fluency in the new environment to understand at a glance what needs to be done, and to recognise how to do it.
That said, it's a curiously sometimes intuitive, and at others an inscrutable interface. Do spend some time to savvy it before you begin to commit any serious project to it. Pages does to an extent rely on your setting up a basic page layout and other details from the outset. On the other hand, it does have a powerful "undo" facility, so there's no need to be afraid of messing about with it - which will generally show you more than all the help and manuals, and even overall these forums, which are really a consensus of our meddling with it too. It's also a program in its youth, and will ask you for some indulgence: and as yet the odd workaround you shouldn't really need.
But we don't all persevere with it for nothing. At root and core it's a beauty.
Cheers.

Adobe After Effects CS3 crashes with Codecs such as Motion JPEG and Avid DnxHD

Hey guys, I'm new here
I'm having a problem with After Effects CS3 crashing with .mov files (exported from Adobe Premiere) with codecs such as Motion Jpeg A and Avid's DnxHD. Its driving me crazy.
If I import a Motion Jpeg A file, AE crashes immediately. If I import a DnxHD file that works fine with Premiere, it seems to import ok. However, when I try to play it in AE it comes up as a plain white... thing. If I move the slider across it previews one or two frames before AE crashes. Its driving me crazy.
AE works ok with H.164 and animation files.
I'm reinstalled quicktime and Avids codecs, uninstalled ffdshow, disabled Open GL and multiprocessing, changed between 10bit and 8bit (whatever that is all about) with the dnxhd and I'm really stumped. If I can get Dnxhd working I'm fine with that. I thought I'd mention the Motion Jpeg A codec to see if they're a result of the same problem.
I've also tried Avid's RGB packed Codec with the same results.
I'm running Windows Xp 32 bit with 3gbs of ram, a GeForce 8600 gt with a Intel Pentium Duo Core Processor 2.00 GHZ.
Can anyone help me please?

I'm mistaken, Animation files don't work either!
I tried that with no luck. I even tried a few more Quicktime codecs with the same results.
Only H.164 and some png compressed .mov files seem to work. Very frustrating.
I'm surprised thats the case - I am defintley due for an upgrade. Even though this system seems to work ok, struggling a little bit with HD .mov files but yeah, I've been planning a new system for a while.

Help with Motion Tracking and Masking?

Hi. First and probably only post here. I've got a bit of an issue....
I'm trying to create "snapshots" in my video that are created from masks which are then motion tracked and remain stationary. Here's a video of what i'm talking about... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9OhVAduuJc8
The problem I'm running into is that after i motion track the layer, select a null object as the target, duplicate the video layer, mask the object, freeze frame, and pair it to a null layer, the object does not remain stationary as the ones in the video do. Instead it moves WITH the null object and I cant figure out why. I've gotten a tutorial from the guy who made the video, however it's private so i don't know if you guys will be able to see it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zY0QLrMCcGM
Either way, i followed the tutorial exactly and still to no avail. Are my settings messed up or what exactly is going on? Ive successfully done this project before but now that i'm using CS5, i'm running into these issues. If anyone has any advice i'd gladly try it out and return with the results.
Thanks so much for trying to help me out.

Yeah the null is still moving. Will freezing it lock the mask into place while still allowing the footage to play through? And how would i go about "freezing the null"?
I just dont understand how this person does it in the tutorial, and the mask remains in place. I know you probably can't watch the tutorial cause the user has it set as private, but as far i know his mask stays in place, but uses the null (while still moving) as a tracking device to keep the mask from floating out of control as the camera moves through the shot.
Sorry if I'm making this rather confusing. It's difficult to explain.
Maybe it might be easier to explain how you would obtain the result from the video I've posted? Keep in mind I dont have CameraTracker.

Anyone edited 1280x720 30fps Motion JPEG from Panasonic compact cameras?

I know a bit about DV and HDV etc. but I am now stepping into uncharted territory.
Is it possible to edit Motion JPEG 30fps 1280x720 (and smaller) in iMovie or FCE/FCP?
I am in PAL country, so the 30fps could be problematic.
Anyone done it and if so how?
Any info would be welcome.

Thank you for the encouraging info.
I am sure I will be able to edit the material as there is always some workaround, the only questions now are how easily and with what final quality.
I suppose the only time I will really find out is when I actually do it.

Help with Motion Tweens and Designing

So we are basically trying to design part of a website
and we want to have the whole alphabet at the top of the page then we want like one letter to shake
and then fall into a funnel which we want to be in the middle of the page then another letter shakes, then two at a time, the three at a time and after that all the letters fall in.
After that we want the letters to fall out and form and sentence, a few sentences.
That's basically all that was thought about, and we are new to flash so we were looking for any tips, or any help to actually do this
we were trying to mess wit the motion tween but we never figured out how to make it shake how we want it to, so any help will be appreciated.

var growFactor:Number = 0.01;
var shakeFactor:Number = 0;
var xDirection:int = 1;
var yDirection:int = 1;
var control:Number = 2.0;
var MOrigin:Number = M.x;
var OOrigin:Number = O.x;
var IOrigin:Number = I.x;
var TOrigin:Number = T.x;
function shakeIt(evt:Event):void {
     // move A
      M.x = MOrigin + Math.random()*shakeFactor*xDirection*control;
      M.y = MOrigin + Math.random()*shakeFactor*yDirection*control;
      O.x = OOrigin + Math.random()*shakeFactor*xDirection*control;
      O.y = OOrigin + Math.random()*shakeFactor*yDirection*control;
      I.x = IOrigin + Math.random()*shakeFactor*xDirection*control;
      I.y = IOrigin + Math.random()*shakeFactor*yDirection*control;
      T.x = TOrigin + Math.random()*shakeFactor*xDirection*control;
      T.y = TOrigin + Math.random()*shakeFactor*yDirection*control;
      // flip coins to see which way to move things next time
      if(Math.random() < 0.5){
            xDirection *= -1;
      if(Math.random() < 0.5){
            yDirection *= -1;
      // shake a little more each time
      shakeFactor += growFactor;
M.addEventListener(Event.ENTER_FRAME, shakeIt);
O.addEventListener(Event.ENTER_FRAME, shakeIt);
I.addEventListener(Event.ENTER_FRAME, shakeIt);
T.addEventListener(Event.ENTER_FRAME, shakeIt);
The problem is that M is shaking in place where i put him and anothers letters are in strange position down look here http://robinmd.nm.ru/new/Untitled-1.html I wold like to put them on one x line whats wrong in the code?=)

AVC HD from Panasonic Lumix movie mode does not play on the iPad. Motion JPEG mode does play the videos, however there is no sound. Any suggestions?

AVC HD movie mode from a Panasonic Lumix camera will not play on the iPad, the format in the camera is not compatible. However, Motion JPEG mode in the camera will play the video on the iPad but there is no sound. Any suggestions?

Ok, I was an old fool, there is indeed a setting on the Lumix LX5 camera which seems to allows both audio and video, although not AVC HD, the camera must be set to Motion JPEG and subsequently NOT to PICT Bridge, rather to PC for the output. Anyone who decides to purchase a Panasonic Lumix should be aware of this. The iPad 2 will display Lumix perfectly in 720p which is enough for the old fool. The Sony NEX5N at twice the cost will do 1080p, but on the iPad and our TV the difference I suspect will not be noticeable.

HD - Motion JPEG-A vs Animation for home movies transferred to video ?

Hi,
A vendor offers a "1560x1080p HD" transfer of home movie film to one of 4 formats.
We'd like to preserve as much useful information as possible in case the very old film deteriorates, but also would consider editing in future. The choices:
High Definition Quicktime Motion JPEG-A - 50GB per hour
High Definition Quicktime Component video ~ 290GB per hour
High Definition Quicktime Animation ~ 370GB per hour
High Definition Quicktime Raw ~ 490GB per hour
They suggest Motion JPEG-A as a "a very good compromise between high quality images and a reasonable data rate" for most users."
To my eye (on a 21" computer screen) their 2 second clips look about the same (but the source doesn't seem very sharp). My 2009 iMac doesn't seem to choke on playing 2 second clips of each format.
Any help in choosing which format to order would be appreciated.

As far as the codecs, my unschooled tendency has been to avoid lossy compression when possible. (I always keep an original TIFF (LZW) image when converting to JPEG for import to PPT...)
This is fine if you have sufficient disk space available. However, there is quite a range of data rates here. Motion JPEG would allow about 19 hours of content to be stored per TB of storage space available while RAW reduces that amount to less than 2 hours. Since it is likely you would want to use this format for long-term archival storage, whatever drive(s) you you use to hold the data would be, more or less, "dedicated" to this purposed for as long as you intend to hold onto the data. Further, it you want to protect the data by RAID redundancy, these storage capacities could be reduced by as much as half-- i.e., less than one hour of RAW content per TB of drive space to less than 10 hours of RAW compressed video. So one very important question is how many hours of content are you talking about and how many drives/drive systems are you willing to dedicate to the non-temporary storage of your content.
I have no video editing experience (outside of fumbling with MPEG Streamclip).
MPEG Streamclip is a very handy utility and works fine for cutting and merging segments. However, if you plan to add titles, transitions, layer addition sound tracks, work with theme styles, or apply "motion" effects, then you will likely want to do your editing in a dedicated video editing app. And, since iMovie is probably already available to you on your current system, it would likely be something you will "play" with at some time or another in conjunction with the content mentioned. Hover, if this is the case, you will not want to re-compress the files for editing in the iMovie '08 (or later) app. As previously mentioned, the "new" version of iMovie does not like the Animation codec. And, which it will accept and "edit" the content, when exported by iMovie, it produces a "black" display output and would not, therefor be a viable option for "native" iMovie editing. (Am assuming Apple still has not "fixed" this problem in the most recently released update but have not personally checked on this since this version only runs on an Intel platform and I do most of my editing on an old PPC G5 model.) Again, just a "heads up" in case you plan to go this route.
Current use of the transferred film might be to trim/edit segments to burn standard SD DVDs. I suppose the most far-out use of these 1080p files would be to make HD Bluray discs - in a future where both my Mac has a burner and my TV a player.
As previously indicated, SD DVDs would most likely limit your final encodings to 720x480 MPEG-2/AC3 or MPEG-2/PCM burns, any of the stated target compression formats would more than suffice. Further, even a 50 GB/hour format equates to something on the order of 110 Mbps or about 8 times what is typically used for SD Motion JPEG and should, as indicated, provide adequate "headroom" for "visual perception" equivalents. (I.e., your final quality will likely depend more on the quality of your source films than on the codec you select.) In fact, if the source fils are of really good quality, you may even be able to create short HD videos and burn them to DVD using the latest version of Toast. Of course, you would still need an HD player to view them. (There are, however, other issues with color sampling/space which may or may not be significant to you.)
In my case, the ease of work flow is just as important as the quality of the final product. The MJPEG format, in addition to requiring less non-temporary storage space (i.e., fewer drives/systems), also is, I believe, one of the formats that "thumbnail" most quickly in iMovie (and/or GarageBand). This may or may not be important to you as far as editing goes. As previously stated, it is also a video format that is native edit compatible with all versions of iMovie. As such, given what you've said thus far, I would lean toward recommending it as the more suitable compression format at this point.

HT5622 I don't get why my Apple ID keeps saying this device is already associated with an Apple ID and something about 90 days but also it doesn't let me download any of my pre orders when available it has happened to me twice and my past purchases help m

I don't get why my Apple ID keeps saying this device is already associated with an Apple ID and something about 90 days but also it doesn't let me download any of my pre orders when available it has happened to me twice and my past purchases can someone contact me and give me some help sorting this out
Much appreciated
<Email Edited by Host>

Hi there
I'm getting a similar problem with my Macbook Pro. itunes match was working fine until two days ago when i created another 'user id' for the laptop and then an itunes account for that user under their profile. Now i cant turn on itunes match on my itunes under my user account. Contacted Apple today who said to use the Express Lane and email the problem and they might be able to make an 'exception' on the account. Otherwise I'll have to wait 88 days to access a lot of my music on the macbook pro. itunes match is still working on the iphone 4S and ipad2.
Can anyone help? The only thought was too re-stream the laptop. Ive already tried deauthorising the other user but it made no difference.
Thanks
Jules

Help with managing RAW and jpeg images and installing iphoto 9

Greetings: Fist, let me make the neophyte apology and plea - I'm sorry, I should have come here first; I didn't and now I need your help.
I have just purchased a macbook pro (still in its box) with updated software for my older imac os x. I have a number of Canon related photo editing programs (that came with my 40D digital SLR) and Adobe photo elements 6 for mac on the imac. Following some erroneous advice I have made a complete mess of the pictures folder's content by trying to delete images directly from that folder (there are now 6000+ images in the folder, many of which are duplicates(?). Most of the images are not tagged or labeled and some have been organized in/by iphoto (I corrupted the iphoto's library structure very early on by disrupting and editing its images - which might explain why iphoto had a difficult time 'finding' and displaying some of my photos). The picture folder now holds jpegs, smallRAW images (a Canon 40D photo format) and various duplicates of the orignal images - (some of the duplicates don't display as images, but as jpeg logos, which, when opened contain duplicate image or are completely black) The first time I downloaded RAW images into iphoto 6 the RAW data displayed as a black image. When shooting in smallRAW on the Canon 40D, the camera produces a jpeg image for 'easy viewing and editing in the camera' but it looks as though iphoto 6 made duplicates of the jpeg and the RAW data and stored them in different locals in the picture file. In an attempt to get the number of images down, I have been trying to delete them from the picture folder. (My daughters both download images rather indiscriminately in hopes of 'editing them on the computer' which inevitably does not happen) and there is a lot of experimental bracketing of images - shooting raw and different Camera formats etc., all of which need to be cleaned up before I proceed.
Sometime in the not-too-distant future I would like to have iphoto 9 running on my imac with a clean library of images and a seamless way of downloading, editing and storing images (including the RAW data).
The macbook pro is for my highschool-aged daughter, who will run iphoto 9 but not have any RAW image data on her system. She would like to copy some of the old iMac's images to put into her own iPhoto 9 library (probably using a disk, email or on-line photo service - ideally, I would like to be able to copy and remove a number of those images from my HD and give them to her for the macbook)
A few questions and queries: Can I 'dis-able' iphoto 6, while I delete images (RAW and jpeg) from the picture file? (and is this even a good idea).
Once I have edited the # of images down to a reasonable size, should I re-launch iphoto 6, rebuild the iphoto library and then update to iphoto 9 or skip v6 and rebuild with v9?
And now for the 'how stupid is this guy question' - I really had planned to purchase an external backup; but between new the macbook, car repairs and braces it has never come to fruition. So, I have never properly backed up my images. What is the bare-bones, least expensive method for me to do this? I'd even consider burning everything to disks if that works. I can't afford the $ to purchase a new external hard drive right now (really). Budget is set aside mid-November for one though.
I've been looking through some other discussion boards and it looks like I'm not the only one having RAW image issues. I know that shooting smallRAW with the companion jpeg is probably not helping things but I take my camera equipment on extended canoe trips - and we like the ease of on-the-spot editing with this format.
Thanks in advance for your help - Mark

Terence, Is the picture folder the primary source for the images or does that data reside somewhere else?
If you gathered them there, then yes.
I really don't want to have to go through 14,000 images looking for the pictures that I want to keep (or is that my only option?).
Only you can decide what you want to keep.
Why does the computer keep making copies of the images and filing them under date and events?
That's how iPhoto works. It's not a problem usually, only you did go in there and make a problem, and now we are trying to fix it.
You advise not to muck around in the picture file via preview,
No I don't. I advise not to much around in the iPhoto Library Folder.
but if I download images through a program other than iPhotos - image capture or adobe aren't I doing that anyway?
Adobe what? Adobe is a software manufacturer who make many excellent applications, you need to be more precise. And no, if you import photos with Image Capture or “adobe” no you are not interfering with the iPhoto Library Folder.
Can you edit a base image file somewhere and remove it from the HD without iphoto making a copy of it and storing it somewhere else?
This is stunningly easy. Don't use iPhoto. Use an image editor.
I want to look the negatives, decide which ones I want and throw the rest away. Can that be done or am I way off course?
Yes, and iPhoto (or similar apps) make this really easy.
Hook up your camera. Import the pics to iPhoto. Go through the imported pics. Trash the ones you don't want. Then process the ones you do. But you must learn how to use iPhoto to do this successfully
To trash: put the pic in the iPhoto trash and empty it. This removes the file from iPhoto and the Hard Disk.
Process it: If you want to use another editor: You can set Photoshop (or any image editor) as an external editor in iPhoto. (Preferences -> General -> Edit Photo: Choose from the Drop Down Menu.) This way, when you double click a pic to edit in iPhoto it will open automatically in Photoshop or your Image Editor, and when you save it it's sent back to iPhoto automatically. This is the only way that edits made in another application will be displayed in iPhoto.
Regards
TD

I need help with motion control. I am programming in Visual Basic. I will need help with what parts I need to purchase from NI, along with help on the code.

I am using a Papst servo motor and I need to know where to start and what to purchase to get this motor to spin. I am using visual basic and in my program I calculate the direction and RPM's needed from the motor. It will spin anywhere from 1 to 10000 RPM's. It seems rather easy, but I have no idea on how to spin the motor at the specific RPM, and stop it with a command stop in the program. Please help.

We really should know a little more about your intended uses for this system, but assuming you want to do relatively simple (or even not so simple!) motion, you'll need a few components...
A motion controller, such as the PCI-7342, can take your VB commands and turn them into the commands needed to "run" the motor. Next you'll need a drive, such as the MID-7342. This includes the servo amplifier that actually powers the motor. It also has connections to "pass through" the encoder signals from the motor back to the motion controller.
The above-named pieces assume one or two axes of motion. You'll also need a cable to connect the two (can't remember the model right now). You can use MAX to configure the motion controller, and there are just a few VB calls you
'll need to make using NI-Motion functions to define the motion and get it going.
Hope this helps!

Losing contrast and color when converting Motion JPEG OpenDML to H.264

Hey
I have a Canon IXUS 850 IS which makes "Motion JPEG OpenDML" movies.
The files are kind of big, so I am trying to convert to a better codec.
But when I try converting to H.264 with Quicktime Pro 7 I always loose color intenseness so basically contrast.
Not sure if its a general problem or a settings problem.
I am converting at 2000 kbit/s, key frame automatic and MultiPass
with no restricted profiles.
Anybody have an idea how I could compress this video without loosing so much image quality?
If you want to see what I mean, ceck out the original and the converted video in my .mac public folder in the folder "Motion JPEG OpenDML".
.Mac name tbiegner
Thanks a lot for any help
Thorsten
iMac Core 2 Duo Mac OS X (10.4.9)

Well I seem to have found a solution instead of converting to mp4 I am converting to mov with h.264 codec.
The conversion it a lot better if I select best quality the quality is as good as the original but the file size gets even bigger than the original actuaqlly double the size.
When I select low quality I get about the same size and quality as when I convert to mp4.
In the end what I find strange is, why mp4 makes automatically a "low" quality compression and there is now setting to change the quality.
Really a bit strange but at least I have now found somewhat of a solution.

HT200246 I JUST PURCHASED MOTION 5 AND HAVE NEVER USED IT OR ITS PREDECESSORS BEFORE. HOW CAN I GET A LESSON GUIDE FOR HOW TO USE THIS SOFTWARE?

I JUST PURCHASED MOTION 5 AND HAVE NEVER USED IT OR ITS PREDECESSORS BEFORE. HOW CAN I GET A LESSON GUIDE FOR HOW TO USE THIS SOFTWARE?

There are a number of resources. You might want to start with:
The User Manual:
http://help.apple.com/motion/mac/5.0/en/motion/usermanual/
This Thread:
https://discussions.apple.com/message/22833760#22833760
or just do a google search, that should bring up plenty of tutorials from around the web.
Cheers!

Using Adobe Photoshop CS2 version 9 and have updated it, but when stacking photos, it comes up with PSD, whereas I want Jpeg, and I change the format to Jpeg and the box then comes up with cannot save as there is a program error. Be very grateful for help

Using Adobe Photoshop CS2 version 9 and have updated it, but when stacking photos, it comes up with PSD, whereas I want Jpeg, and I change the format to Jpeg and the box then comes up with cannot save as there is a program error. Be very grateful for help with this, please.

jpg does not support Layers.
Just to make sure, what exactly do you mean by "stacking photos" and what do you want to achieve thereby?

I just downloaded iTunes on my new PC and all the music that I have purchased through ITunes that was backed up on the cloud won't play. It is telling I must authorize this computer before it play pre purchased music. how do I authorize my computer.

I just downloaded iTunes on my new PC and all the music that I have purchased through ITunes that was backed up on the cloud won't play. It is telling me I must authorize this computer before it can play pre purchased music. how do I authorize my computer to play this music?
Thank you for any assistance.

Tigon's already got you covered here. But I'll chime in with some English localisation advice.
There's a couple of ways to get through to the authorisation controls in the 11.0.x versions.
The control is still in the Store menu, but first (if you're using iTunes versions 11.0.x) you might need to bring up the menu bar to see the Store menu.
If you're using 11.0.x, click on the wee boxy icon up in the top-left corner of your iTunes to see the "Show Menu Bar" control, as per the following screenshot:
Then you'll find the control in the Store menu:
Alternatively, if you don't want to bring up the menu bar, it's still possible to get into the authorise controls via nested menus accessible from the wee boxy icon. Here's a screenshot of where to find them:

Pre-purchase help – AVCHD/Motion JPEG and Panasonic TZ7...

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