Preparing Screenshots for Print

Hi-
I am looking for guidance for capturing screenshots, that will be for print. The company that I work for has a book being made that requires several figures from screenshots. The book is being printed in B&W. I do not have access to any other screen grab program other than Grab, and was wondering if anyone has any advice for making these grabs the best quality they can be for print. I am obviously concerned with resolution, but also the general quality of the images, bluriness when printed, as well as loss of quality and contrast when converted to B&W.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! The width of the all screenshots is 26 picas.
Thanks!
Lees

misslees wrote:
No I don't...I am on a mac...
In that case why not amble over to their forum?
http://forums.adobe.com/community/photoshop/photoshop_macintosh

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Auto preparing file for printing Feature (extension)

do you know extension or plug-in for auto preparing a file for print?
I have a bunch of calling cards, flyers, brochures and etc.,
and I manually setting it up for print over and over again, sometimes I forgot 1 or 2 steps of doing that like missing cutting guides.
now I'm looking for that feature or similar, I know this is not impossible.
I have a idea but I don't know codes.

Hello IanHP8500,
Welcome to the HP Forums.
I see that you're having an issue getting your Officejet 8500 scanning on Windows 8.1. I will do my best to help you with this issue.
Did you upgrade to 8.1 from an older version of Windows?
If so, with it not scanning correctly. You can try just removing the HP Solution Center from programs and features.
Go to the bottom left corner of your screen right click on the Windows icon> go to Control Panel> Go to Programs> uninstall Solution Center if it's listed.
Next, instead of using the printer install wizard. Download the software from this link: HP Officejet Pro Full Feature Software and Driver. Let it run through, it should prompt to " add more software". This should allow you to reinstall Solution Center.
If you run into issues, there is something you may have to do. If you get a file missing error here, or the install hangs check your computer for the following.
McAfee Live Safe - Disable the "Realtime Scanning".
Check for and remove HPOINS*.dat or HPWINS*.dat. Here is a link to a post by JonW on how to do this: Re: installer setup hangs under Windows 8.1.
Try all of this, and let me know how you make out. Thank you for posting on the HP Forums.
I worked on behalf of HP.

Preparing files for printer - no CM requested, image resizing

Using InDesign CS3 504, on Mac OSX 10.6.
I'm approaching the end of preparing a 40pp A4 magazine for a client. In about one week I'll be submitting my file to the printers who are UK based (I am UK based, too). I'm looking for the best set up to help them get things done accurately and efficiently.
My printers have requested that there be no Colour Management. I'm used to working with CM through CS, so I'm not certain what to do in this case.
Here's what I've done so far:
All colour swatches used are CMYK Process
All images are CMYK/Grayscale and have been saved with no colour profile
InDesign still has CM turned on - I have read that 'Emulate InDesign CS2 CM off' doesn't really switch it offAll images that get brought into InDesign show the colour profile from my InDesign CM in the Info palette (Euroscale Coated v2)
I also need to Export to PDF for them. What's the best setting for me to use for this? Should I be choosing 'No Colour Conversion' and 'Don't Include Profiles'?
I also don't understand if I need to resize my images to 300dpi at 100% size used (the printer's requested resolution for actual size output). This would be a relatively small job though, as there aren't that many pics. If I do this, would I Export to PDF with no Image Compression?
Thanks.

I'm going to give you my 2 cents worth here.
First, you don't need to size the images in Photoshop, you just need to be sure that the "effective resolution" that you see in the info panel is at least 300 ppi. If it's much more, downsampling at export is appropriate, if it's a lot less you need a larger image to start -- upsampling in Photoshop isn't going to improve things. 200-225 ppi is the lowest I'd be comfortable with for commercial grade offset, but it depends on the paper and linescreen.
As far as color management, you are correct, emulate CS2 CM Off is not a good way to work. My impression form what you've posted is that the printer wants no clor profiles embedded in your files to avoid the possibility of having his RIP do a color conversion that would do something bad, like make your 100% K type a 4-color mix.
There are several ways to approach this. The best, in my opinion, is to find out what the correct output space is going to be. Assign that as the working space in the document. Native objects and untagged imports will be treated as being in that space. Imports with embedded profiles will their colors adjusted to maintain the appearance in the tagged sapce, as closely as possible. I think this is better for photos, since I want them to look correct, and they don't have 100% single channel colors that will cause a problem, so I always embed the profile in photographs, and I have my color management policy set to preserve profiles.
On the other hand, vector logos, may want to be printed with the same mix of ink all the time, regardless of the color profile, especially if they have black type or strokes, so I tend not to embed profiles in those when saving. They will be interpreted then as being in the working space.
At export you can then either leave colors unchanged (if there is no RGB), or choose the working space as the target profile, and your CMYK values will be preserved. Do not embed profiles in the PDF.
If you have the wrong working space you can expect some color shifting on press.
Next best would be to work in whatever working space you think is correct and picking convert to to profile (preserve numbers) and choosing the correct target when you find out what it is. In that scenario any native objects and untagged imported images will be treated as if they are already in the destination space and the numbers will be unchanged. If your photos or linked graphics have embedded profiles, those profiles will be honored and converted to the destination. This should give you the same result as the first method, but puts off the need to know the output space until export.
My main reason for preferring the first method is that the screen preview is going to reflect the working space, so if that matches the destination you'll get a better idea of what's going on.

Prepare file for printing

I've been using Ps for quite a while now, but recently I had to expand my work to Illustrator as well. I am pretty much a newb when it comes to it though, and recently I had to send some logos to a printing company, in order for them to laser-print the logos on some pens. They replied back to me, saying that the logos needed to be "broken into curves" before they could go ahead and print them.
I have no idea what that means, and I've been on Google since early this morning, looking for an answer.
Can anyone help?

The grads are likely to be problematic. The printing method may be foil-based, transfer-based, or screen printing, which often require line art (artwork free of halftone dots), especially at small reduction sizes. That's one reason why it is commonly best to avoid contone artwork (grads, blends, raster-based tones) in proper logos.
And it's one possible reason why the imprinter insists on its being "broken into curves" (a very poorly stated requirement). He probably means having all the elements provided as closed paths so he can apply solid fills. (Text converted to paths; nothing in the clover leaf being dependent upon overlapping objects, for example if the white in the clover leaf is actually done by separate white-filled paths.)
Generally speaking, you don't want an output house having to modify your files. You should consider it your responsibility to deliver files suitable for the intended repro method. It is quite common that the technicians working at an output house may be experts in their particular media, but know next to nothing about preparation of the artwork files (as is suggested by the poorly-stated requirement).
That's why "as far as I know" doesn't cut it. An office copier is a "laser printer." But obviously, you can't run a writing pen through an office copier to have it imprinted.
There are, however, many writing pen models commonly used in imprinted specialty marketing which involve a paper insert behind a clear pen barrel. The imprint is just printed on paper, and can be printed with ordinary "laser printing" devices.
At the other end of the spectrum, it is also quite common in imprinted specialty marketing to employ what is technically a laser engraver which actually uses a laser beam to etch a design into a metal pen barrel, or to expose a light-fixed coating.
If there is one, provide a web link to the specific vendor and the specific pen model you are trying to design for.
JET

How to export chapter screenshots for printing?

My office is working up a large collection of DVDs in Encore. As part of the job, our manager wants DVD cases that display thumbnails of the poster frames located at each chapter stop (chapters are set as automatic intervals in Encore). She saw that cases with thumbnail chapter images are provided by some of the big video companies like YesVideo when they make DVDs for customers, and decided she wants them for this job.
The problem is, we cannot figure out how to get screenshots of every chapter stop exported from Encore in an expeditious manner. The closest we have come to a solution is manually navigating to each chapter stop and using the "save frame as file" option. But for 24 stops per DVD, doing each chapter like this--for many DVDs--will take forever!
Is there a way to automate this? I can't believe Encore doesn't have a way to save all the chapter stop images in a given timeline as JPEG files. I'm used to automating so much in Photoshop!
Or, if there isn't an Encore way, does anyone know of another program that can do this? We found one called DVD Labeler that does something similar, but it doesn't do exactly what we need.
All advice is appreciated. Thank you!

Hi Stan--thanks for your help.
Believe me, I'm all for options that make it easier! But I'm not sure I understand why your method is easier.
Yes to your questions--set intervals, the beginning chapter is not special, poster frame is the same as the chapter.
We are doing exactly the same thing you describe doing in Premiere--just in Encore instead. We're using the "next chapter" button to jump to the chapter locations, and using "save frame to file" instead of "export frame."
No, it's not automatic, but for 24 chapters per DVD, it's still plenty time-consuming. So I'm not sure why your Premiere method would be preferable to what we're doing. But if I'm missing something, please let me know. :-)

Preparing files for print

Hi everyone,
I was given a .icc profile from my printer and was told to convert to this profile after I'd finished my editing in RGB mode.
I was also given the following information:
General Specs for newsprint:
Colour should be CMYK. When converting RGB to CMYK, use the following Photoshop settings:
Ink Colour: Newsprint
Dot Gain: 30%
Separation Type: GCR
Black generation: Light
Total Ink Limit: 260%
UCA: 10%
I don't understand the above settings as I thought that all that information was captured in the .icc profile that I was supplied. This is my first experience in a colour managed workflow so I may be getting a bit confused. If the above settings are not in the .icc profile then where do I set them in Photoshop?
Would really appreciate any advice.

Hi everyone,
I was given a .icc profile from my printer and was told to convert to this profile after I'd finished my editing in RGB mode.
I was also given the following information:
General Specs for newsprint:
Colour should be CMYK. When converting RGB to CMYK, use the following Photoshop settings:
Ink Colour: Newsprint
Dot Gain: 30%
Separation Type: GCR
Black generation: Light
Total Ink Limit: 260%
UCA: 10%
I don't understand the above settings as I thought that all that information was captured in the .icc profile that I was supplied. This is my first experience in a colour managed workflow so I may be getting a bit confused. If the above settings are not in the .icc profile then where do I set them in Photoshop?
Would really appreciate any advice.

What's the correct way of preparing artwork for print in Illustrator?

I want to print an illustration on 8.5in. x 11in. paper. Whenever I print, the artwork always fills the whole page and all of the artwork doesn't show. So I created a new document and these are the settings. Are they correct? Thanks in advance.

Your new document setting are correct, CMYK & 8.5 x 11.
Unless you have borderless printer you cannot print to the edge of the paper. This keep from toner getting into the printer and one side is usually the shortest so the gripper can grab the paper. Usually this is only about 1/8" around and one side about 1/4".
If this does not help, can you please provide a measurement of how much is missing and describe where it si your are determining all of the artwork does ton show, is this in the print window or other.

Preparing file for print

Hello,
I am getting some stationery printed and my printer asked me to set up the file so that I have 4 A2's on a standard 8.5" x 11". Can someone please tell me how to do that?
Thank you very much!

"A2" (envelope size) is 4.25" x 5.5"; exactly 1/4 a letter-size sheet.
Create design on an A2 page.
Start a new InDesign file at 8.5 x 11 with 0 margins, 2 columns, 0 gutter.
Place a copy of A2-size design, (indd or pdf...I'd choose pdf).
Duplicate it 3 times and snap each copy into a corner of the page.

What's the best way to export for print?

I usually upload images to my local photoprinting shop. What's the best way to do that with Lightroom? Since lightroom does the final sharpening in the print module, how do I get that into the exported file since there is no export function in the print module? Also, how do I get the proper dpi and sizing info into the photo for the print shop? Thanks.

There is no good way to prepare images for printing from a file from a commercial printer by using Lightroom alone. You need to do an export of the image without any resizing or color space conversion, and then use some other program of your choice to 'finish' the file.
It's just plain missing functionality... Lightroom assumes that you will be printing photos yourself and it is missing a whole lot of stuff in order to support external printing, including:
a) Resize to exact pixel dimensions. Many labs require an exact pixel count for a given print size, so for example for an 8x10 they need a 2400 x 3000 pixel image. Can't be done in Lightroom.
b) Trim adjustment. If you are doing full bleed photos (no margin), you might need to provide about 0.05 inch of 'trim space' to compensate for image loss during printing. Can't be done in Lightroom.
c) Exporting to a specific printer profile. Can't be done.
d) Adding margins, text, etc. Many times my clients want a 1/4 inch margin in their photos to facilitate framing, or I put a dim watermark type text in the bottom corner. Can't be done.
My solution. Do most processing in Lightroom, do an export, and then do a second export via qImage on a PC. It does all of the above plus much more. It's just a matter of using the right tool for the job, and LIghtroom has no facilities at all for printing to a file.
I have been asking for "Print to File" ever since I was under NDA during the betas.

Best way to increase image size for print

I have a jpeg of an image that I will have to increase roughly 140% for a final print size of 16"x20". I am creating the final design in InDesign, but am editing the image in Photoshop first. My question is what's the best way to increase the size of the jpeg first in Photoshop (I assume) so that when I bring it into InDesign it is maximized in terms of resolution but not so large that the file size prohibitive for sending.
I've already cropped the image, but haven't adjusted any of the sizes. The dimensions are currently: 3233 pixels x 2586 pixels, and 10.777 in x 8.62 in at 300 pixels per inch.
Do I bring it into InDesign this way or increase the document size first in Photoshop? I assume the latter.
If I increase the size in Photoshop, I assume I should resample the image. If I do, that increases the pixel dimensions and file size to over 82.4M. Is there a way to keep the 300 ppi resolution while reducing the file size?

Photoshop CC now has Preserve Details as well as Bicubic smoother for enlargements.
140% is not asking much for enlargements. Photoshop may suffice.
You mention 300 ppi. Is it really necessary? In the days of offset presses,that was the standard, but what is it for a photo inkjet or the printer you use? You may not need 300.
Personally when I enlarge, I like Photozoom Pro. I have it on my Mac and PC and find it better than stock enlargement in Photoshop. Of course it's $99-$199 depending if it's on sale.
Here's a bit more about digital enlargement in this Sydney Morning Herald article
http://www.smh.com.au/digital-life/cameras/how-to-enlarge-images-without-pixelation-201306 26-2ovts.html
Of course Photoshop is for preparing photos for print and the web, so you would want to finish your photos there before moving them to InDesign.
Trevor Dennis, Noel Carboni and many other professionals can give better answers on the subject of enlargement and printing so I hope they will post advice as well.
I can't answer the last one honestly, I've never prepared prints for room exhibit, so I can't say what works best.
Good luck. I hope you can get it sorted out.
Gene

Adobe 9.2 "preparing document" when printing

I have a new HP laptop here at my property with Windows 7 (x32) and when she selects "print", it pops up the "preparing document for printing", but you can click past this window, but it still shows up.
She tried it on our 4250 HP Laserjet, it also does the same thing on out Ricoh MPC7500 color copier/printer. The HP is using PCL drivers, while the Ricoh is using it's own "brand" of drivers.
Anyone have any ideas?

You are not at the latest version of Acrobat 9. Keep updating. The latest is something like 9.5.3
http://www.adobe.com/support/downloads/product.jsp?product=1&platform=Windows

Saving files for print

I am designing certain elements in illustrator and then transferring them into Photoshop to add text and other finishing touches - I save the illustrator elements as .eps or .pdf and then open them in Photoshop. I save the final document as .JPEG but when I go to upload it to a professional printing company's web site.... it is saying that the .JPEG file is invalid and cannot be read. I went back into photoshop and saved the file for web but I am afraid that this will lower the quality of the print. How else can I save this document so that it is compatible?

Massively wrong workflow. Use Photoshop for pixel images. Place these into Illustrator and add text and other graphics there.
Finally save as pdf and send the Acrobat file to print.
Remember that a vector file is resolution independent, whereas if you take everything into Photoshop as a last step you are not only nailing down its resolution but also pixelating stuff that should not be pixelated.
It sounds as if you are maybe a web designer who needs to learn a thing or two about preparing artwork for print.

What is the keyboard shortcut for screenshot or print screen?

what is the keyboard shortcut for screenshot or print screen?

Taking Screenshots in Mac OS X
Command-Shift-3: Take a screenshot of the screen, and save it as a file on the desktop
Command-Shift-4, then select an area: Take a screenshot of an area and save it as a file on the desktop
Command-Shift-4, then space, then click a window: Take a screenshot of a window and save it as a file on the desktop
Command-Control-Shift-3: Take a screenshot of the screen, and save it to the clipboard
Command-Control-Shift-4, then select an area: Take a screenshot of an area and save it to the clipboard
Command-Control-Shift-4, then space, then click a window: Take a screenshot of a window and save it to the clipboard
In Leopard and later, the following keys can be held down while selecting an area (via Command-Shift-4 or Command-Control-Shift-4):
Space, to lock the size of the selected region and instead move it when the mouse moves
Shift, to resize only one edge of the selected region
Option, to resize the selected region with its center as the anchor point
Source: http://guides.macrumors.com/Taking_Screenshots_in_Mac_OS_X

Need advice on "best" way to prepare book cover for printing

This newbie has created a front cover, back cover, and spline in Photoshop Elements with multiple layers consisting of a background image of a mountain, text, and on the front cover, an airplane. I've combined the three parts into a wraparound cover within a single indd file, which I've exported to PDF for upload to Amazon's CreateSpace (CS) for a print-on-demand book.
CS instructions say to "flatten" the cover. I've researched the term and found forum discussions that mention "raster" and "vector" and the pros and cons of different options for preparing a layered image for printing. I'm aware of the cautions about flattening being an irreversible process, and to never do that to a master copy. Beyond that, to say I'm confused would be an understatement.
I realize this is an InDesign forum, but I'm seeking advice on whether there are actions I should take in Elements before placing the three parts of the cover into the InDesign document for converting to PDF. For example, should I flatten them within Elements before placing them in the InDesign document, then convert to PDF? Or is it better to do that on the complete cover within InDesign?
Any assistance on clearing up this fog would be appreciated.

The print-on-demand site's instruction to flatten really has no direct relationship to InDesign, Peter. They don't say anything about what application you should use prior to creating the pdf, and that's what generated my original plea for help as to whether it would be best to flatten the individual images within PSE before placing them into InDesign, wait until they are combined and then do it, or if it is even necessary to do that at all.
I've been doing some additional reading on the CreateSpace forum and found a couple of very detailed (translation: too detailed for me) discussions on the differences in the output based on how you tell Adobe to create the pdf. I also found the following buried in the Help section:
                  Check the PDF settings that will be used to create your PDF file. If available, select "PDF/X-1a," "High-Quality Print" or "Press Quality" from the list of presets. If your system allows, make sure the following settings are chosen. Any other settings should be left to default in most cases.
                  Fonts and images are embedded.
                  Bookmarks, annotations, and comments are disabled.
                  Document security (any type) is not used.
                  PDF/X format is used. PDF/X is preferred, but if you are submitting non-PDF/X files (for example, PDF/A), any comments, forms, or other non-printing objects could be removed during our review process.
                  Transparent objects are flattened.
                  Spreads and printer's marks are disabled.
                  Downsampling, or decreasing resolution, of images is disabled.
                  Bleeds are enabled (if applicable).
                  Click "Export" or "OK" in the export dialog box.
                  Once created, make sure to open the PDF file to see that it appears as you intended. Otherwise, make the necessary adjustments in the native document and re-create the PDF file.
The mention of "High Quality Print" in the first line and the fact that it was InDesign's default setting for export left me with the impression that I didn't need to do anything other than export the cover and it would be in compliance with the requirements. Then when I read on the other forum about what each of the settings does to output, and all this discussion about which setting is best, I wasn't sure if the comment about flatttening applied to my output pdf or not.
As for bleed, yes, and I hope my math is correct in calculating the spline width for cream b&w paper, 374 total pages, trim size of 5.25x8, and a bleed of .125" all the way around, which increases the InDesign document by .25" in width and height over the trim size. I fully expect to have to do all that again, but such is life in the fast lane.

Best way to prepare photos for iPhoto printed book

Hello,
I was wondering what would be the best way to prepare photos for iPhoto printed book on a Macbook Pro so to achieve the most realistic results to what's on the screen
ie. which software should I use to change photos from RGB to CMYK, photoshop or iPhoto itself. I'm guessing maybe the autofix feature in iPhoto? (I don't have Aperture)
Secondly, which monitor color setting should I set the screen at? I'm guessing it's either Apple RGB or Colour LCD, maybe even ColorMatch RGB?
Any any other tips that people can give in achieving the most realistic results to what you have on the screen when your printed iPhoto book gets sent back. I don't want the mid tones to disappear or become too bright because the gamma and color settings were different to what they use at the other end.
Many thanks.

Hi,
The situation has changed a little, our original photos are in RAW format and some of them are slightly over saturated in the higher tones.
I've read on other threads that it is a good idea to run the 'Enhance' tool on all photos before sending the iPhoto Book away.
Since iPhoto's 'Enhance' tools seems to do a lot of helpful things like sharpen, adjust the levels, etc it also seems to notch the contrast up and this would prove destructive for the lighter and darker tones not captured by the camera's dynamic range.
So as I've been advised it's best to use Apple's own tools before sending the iPhoto Book away, so I'm going to download the trial of Aperture.
Does anyone have any more recommendations on which monitor colour profile setting to use etc. I've also read that iPhoto prints best from JPEGS so the RAW will obviously need changed. Will Aperture automatically save to Profile name: Camera RGB Profile after I've done some editing there?
What would be the best way to prepare RAW images in aperture where some of them might need an Image Overlay in Photomatix then imported back to Aperture for printing an Apple/iPhoto style Book?
Many thanks

Preparing Screenshots for Print

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