Problems with X-fi Platinum Drive

Hi,
I've been using my X-fi platinum dri've bay for quite some time now (,5 years) but since today Windows XP keeps rebooting. I tried re-installing windows. Same story. I did disconnect the bay from the card and it works like a charm.
Anyone else had this issue? Is so... how did you solve it's I'm thinking about returning to the store... since I have a 2 year waranty by Creative itself. But I just want to make sure I'm not causing any problems I could solve myself.
Thanks
Oh.. and if anyone should request systemspecs (of which I don't think they're relevant, since it worked all the time before) just ask politely

It's always nice when copying a CD to not need to swap discs, plus it burns faster this way (atleast with Nero's "On The Fly" setting).
You don't really need to buy a whole new dri've either. It might be more economical to just get an external enclosure for the dri've you already have.
Here is an example
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E6878605
I am not sure of qualityrice comparison of this product though, you would want to look at that yourself. I'm just trying to show an example.
If you do buy an enclosure I'd consider putting a burner into it if you have one. It may run a little slower, but then you would have a nice plug/play burner to pop onto any desktop/laptop you happen to need to burn off of.

Similar Messages

Problem with Installer and DVD drive

I am having problems with my dvd combo drive reading discs. It keeps spitting them out. More importantly, I am trying to load Adobe Illustrator CS2 and cannot get all the wat through the installation proccess. Is there a patch I am not aware of??

You could be looking at some kind of driver corruption issue (say if that sector on your hd had gone bad, or the file was dorked somehow). Have you done repaired permissions on the hd recently?
Do all types of DVDs fail -- music, movies, and apps? If some work and others do not, then it could be a problem with a particular app.
It never hurts to check the cables. Insufficient data or power can cause all kinds of problems.
HTH,
~FifthWheel

I refurbished my macbook air 7 months ago because there was a problem with the steady state drive. Now my battery seems to be dead again. How long does the warranty last? Do I need to pay for a new battery?

I refurbished my macbook air 7 months ago because there was a problem with the steady state drive. Now my battery seems to be dead again. How long does the warranty last? Do I need to pay for a new battery?

As I wrote Apple will diagnose an Apple product even if it is out of warranty for free. That should be your first step to find out if the problem is the battery or something else.
Once you have Apple telling you a 7 month old battery is defective (if that turns out to be the case) then it becomes a game of horse trading. You'll need to speak to the tech and when he tells you there is nothing he can do you will need to speak to the tech manager and when she says most likely there is nothing they can do you go to the store manager, etc. It is unlikely (though possible) that they will give in easily you need to be firm, polite and let on that you're willing to accept a partial reimbursement.
So again the first step is to find out what is wrong.
good luck

Problems with Elitebook 8460p graphics driver

Hello
I´m having problems with Elitebook 8460p display driver. The last version (15.28.20.64.3347) posted on 16 jun 2014 have some issues on the laptop. When the notebook is running on batteries the screen suffers from flickering and corrupted graphics, as you can see in this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gQ1w0aOaF7A
(you can see the flickering between 0:20-0:22)
I contacted with local hp support and send me an IT guy, who changed my mainboard and CPU, but nothing worked. I tried to contact with intel for support (the issue is present with intel non-oem drivers) but they send me to OEM. I would like to have an actual driver that works with the system (3347 is a year old driver), is this possible?
This issue isn´t present at all in linux drivers, plus mainboard change i totally discard a hardware problem.
I can provide feedback for any solution provided.
Thanks!

Hello @falken2k5
To get your issue more exposure I would suggest posting it in the commercial forums since the Elitebook 8460p is a commercial product. You can do this here Notebook - HP ProBook, EliteBook, Compaq, Slate/Tablet PC, Armada, LTE
The support page for your product may be helpful in the meantime: HP EliteBook 8460p Base Model Notebook PC.
I hope this helps!
Thank you for posting on the HP Forums.
Malygris1
I work on behalf of HP
Please click Accept as Solution if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution.
Click Kudos Thumbs Up on the right to say “Thanks” for helping!

Are you having problems with the Lacie external drive after upgrading to the new operating system

Are you having problems with the Lacie external drive after upgrading to OS X Mavericks?

See here for everyone discussing the issue you are having:
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/5475136?tstart=0

IDE/SCSI Problems with Neo 4 Platinum/Sli

I am routinely getting Event 11 and Event 9 errors in my event viewer which are basically "The controller detected an error on device " then lists a controller and a harddrive. I never got errors like this on my old rig (an Asus A7Pro Motherboard) and I'm using many of the same components. I get controller errors on my Adaptec Card/HDD which is very odd since I'd imagine they were totally separate from the nVidia or Silicon Image SATA/IDE on the board.
New Rig:
MSI Neo4 Platinum/SLI
Athlon 64 3500+
Thermaltake K8 SilentOrb
1 GB (Dual Channel 512MB DDR) Kingson Hyper-X
1 BFG 6800GT OC (PCI-E) (with an Artic Cooling NVSilencer rev2)
Turtle Beach Santa Cruz (although I may change to the onboard 24bit SB Live)
Adaptec 29160 PCI Ultra 160 Controller
Belkin 54G Wireless Adapter
Pioneer SCSI II slot load DVD-ROM drive
Toshiba SCSI II CD-R/CD-RW drive
500+ Watts Vantec Stealth PSU (with good voltages on all rails)
74GB Western Digital Raptor (SATA connected to Slot 4 - nVidia SATA channel, no RAID)
80GB Western Digital 8MB RAM, Special Edition UDMA 4 IDE HDD
36GB Seagate Ultra2 Cheetah
Old Rig had the WD IDE drive, the SCSI card and dvd/cd drives, the sound card, and the wireless card.
I originally had a 40GB IDE Maxtor drive (which I replaced with the Digital Raptor) but it had all sorts of event 11 and 9 errors and exhibited slow IDE performance and even created conflicts with the WD IDE Drive outside of windows. I had problems running the WD diagnostsics software (runs in DOS) when the Maxtor drive was set to primary master on either of the two IDE channels.
What I'm wondering is if there is a BIOS upgrade or Driver release or anything that fixes these problems for people. I'm using BIOS 3.1 (when I upgraded to Bios 3.4, my computer would BSOD in normal and safe modes, and I didn't feel like reinstalling Windows, so I downgraded back to 3.1) The nVidia IDE drivers (6.53) caused massive problems with my drives (event 11 and 9 and endless lockups with the IDE light remaining on, requiring cold boots) so I ditched them for the windows default drivers.
I'm curious if people have checked out their own event viewer (Control Panel->Administrative Tools->Event Viewer->System for all you non-power users) and checked out the errors listed there.
The only other stability problem sI've noticed is when playing Half Life 2 in 1280X1024 resolution (1024X768 didn't have the problem) would cause complete crash of the machine. Monitor would lose signal and a cold boot was required... reset button didn't fix the problem. I figured this might be a cooling issue so I checked temps and they were fine. Then I figured it may be a power problem so I upgraded to the Vantec Stealth PSU (from my Antec 380W SilentPower) I haven't tested HL2 extensively since, so I'm not sure if this problem has gone away. The other problem occurs when trying to rip a CD in iTunes with "cd error checking on" System totally stalls out and a cold boot is required to get the SCSI happy again. If I rip using error checking off, things seem to work, however I get a problem sometimes where a track will suddenly squeel and crack in the middle and then the remainder of the song will be the first track on the album. The next track in the sequence will have a half second blip of the previous track on it, essentially meaning that two tracks are "broken rips" Ripping in AudioGrabber with ASPI doesn't seem to exhibit these problems.
Any similar experiences or sollutions/advice would be greatly appreciated.

It's been fixed for the Neo2. I am using a modded version called 1C3 EasyBios [rev.2]. I think it is based on the latest version or new beta of the official 1.B. Read all about it:
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=88384.0
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=59711.msg622296#msg622296

Problems with K7N2 DELTA2 PLATINUM Help Me.

Hi everyone, I have this problem with my recently bought K7N2 Delta2 Platinum . I've being installed the pc this last nights, and the pc can't post, all fans start properly but the D-Bracket indicates me this description " EARLY CHIPSET INITIALIZATION", can anyone help me??
I don´t know if my MB support a Athlon XP 1500+ processor, this is the current devices and components installed in my MoBo:
AMD athlon XP 1500 +
256 mb 184 pin DDR RAM PC 2100 spectek
Sound Blaster Live! 5.1
60 GB hard drive Maxtor IDE
40 GB hard drive Seagate IDE drive

and this
Model: K7N2 (MS-6570)
Revision: 1.0
Form Factor: ATX
Chipset: NVIDIA nForce2 SPP AGP DDR
Bios: Award 3.4 04/11/2003 or later. Recommended Speeds:
AMD Athlon™ XP 3000+ (333 FSB)
AMD Athlon™ XP 2800+ (333 FSB)
AMD Athlon™ XP 2700+ (333 FSB)
AMD Athlon™ XP 2600+ (333 FSB) Model 8
AMD Athlon™ XP 2600+ (333 FSB) Model 10
AMD Athlon™ XP 2600+ (266 FSB)
AMD Athlon™ XP 2500+ (333 FSB)
AMD Athlon™ XP 2400+ (266 FSB) Model 10 w/ 256K Cache
AMD Athlon™ XP 2400+ (266 FSB)
AMD Athlon™ XP 2200+ (266 FSB) Model 10 w/ 256K Cache
AMD Athlon™ XP 2200+ (266 FSB)
AMD Athlon™ XP 2100+ (266 FSB) Model 8
AMD Athlon™ XP 2100+ (266 FSB) Model 6
AMD Athlon™ XP 2000+ (266 FSB) Model 8
AMD Athlon™ XP 2000+ (266 FSB) Model 6
AMD Athlon™ XP 2000+ (266 FSB) Model 10 w/ 256K Cache
AMD Athlon™ XP 1900+ (266 FSB) Model 8
AMD Athlon™ XP 1900+ (266 FSB) Model 6
AMD Athlon™ XP 1800+ (266 FSB) Model 8
AMD Athlon™ XP 1800+ (266 FSB) Model 6
AMD Athlon™ XP 1700+ (266 FSB) Model 8
AMD Athlon™ XP 1700+ (266 FSB) Model 6
AMD Athlon™ XP 1600+ (266 FSB)
AMD Athlon™ XP 1500+ (266 FSB)
AMD Duron™ 1300
AMD Duron™ 1200
AMD Duron™ 1100
AMD Duron™ 1000

Problem with MSI X58 Platinum SLI - IOH temperature !

Hi guys.
I have this PC configuration:
- MSI X58 Platinum SLI ( Bios Version 3.8 - http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/6707/161020101249.jpg )
- Intel Core i7 930 2.80 GHz box ( with Intel Turbo Boost running sometimes at 3.06 Ghz )
- MSI GeForce GT240 1GB DDR5 128-bit HDMI
- Corsair 6GB DDR3 1333MHz CL9 XMS3 Triple Channel Kit ( sets to AUTO and running at 1066 Mhz )
- Corsair CMPSU-750TXEU
- Ordinary case ( http://img828.imageshack.us/img828/4200/161020101246.jpg & http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/8480/161020101247.jpg ).
- Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit.
I bought my PC components 2 months ago, so they are new.
Now, guys I think that is a problem with my motherboard. When I turn on the computer in Bios I have this temps: CPU – 30 C (86 F); IOH – 71 C (159 F); System 30 C (86 F) - http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/394/161020101242.jpg. After 2 minutes the temperatures are: CPU – 34 C (93 F); IOH – 82 C (179 F); System 41 C (105 F) and 2 more minutes later the temperatures are: CPU – 34 C (93 F); IOH – 84 C (183 F); System 43 C (109 F). After 30 minutes of doing nothing I have this temps: CPU – 35 C (95 F); IOH – 85 C (185 F); System 42 C (107 F) -
Guys it is normal with IOH temperature ? I am a little worried about it ( to be honest I am more than “a little” … I am worried a lot ).
Ok, I know I don’t have a good case but in 3 weeks I should receive this Thermaltake Spedo Advance Case (http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Product.aspx?C=1121&ID=1829) and I will buy a new CPU cooler ( I don’t know yet wich one – maybe Corsair CWCH70 or Noctua NH-D14 but I have to see the case first … to be sure there is a plenty of space for those coolers ).
Pls help me with that IOH temperature. It is normal ? What if I intend to make a little OC ( lets say CPU to 3652 Mhz and RAM to 1333 Mhz … but also I will ask for your support ! ) my motherboard will burn ?
If it is necessary I will contact my retailer and send him back the motherboard but … I like MSI a lot.
Thx guys for your support !

Hey guys,
Here is a nice cheap alternative.
Here is my story about the same issue. I found it after looking at why my computer freezes sometimes. Not very often but enough for me to do some investigation. I noticed my IOH temp was a whopping 117 degrees Celsius. lol. Surprised my mobo didn't burn out by now. I wanted to evaluate the situation with the heat sink and decided to take it off. After taking it off I found extremely crusty purple compound on board the chipset and the heatsink. I took me FOREVER to scrape it off. it was almost like a cement which I found odd. After scraping and cleaning the surfaces with alcohol, I placed some silver compound on and proceeded to put it back on.
Well, upon hooking everything back up I was still at 95 to 103 degs. Now I started to really look at the options to replace this. I had SLI config which means I had to do something clever with the southbridge as well. A nice thermaltake chipset solution w/fan and a low profile copper southbridge with shipping was about 45 bucks. Hmm ... This is a sure fix from the threads I have read and its really kid of expensive to fix a simple defect. the problem is not necessarily with the heatsink not being sufficient. Its the combo of the compound used vs the amount of pressure applied between the heatsink and chipset. It was completely unacceptable. I knew this right away when I was watching the temp and then I would press on the top of the IOH heatsink and I would watch it drop another 15 degrees in less then 10 seconds. The springs are extremely weak and not effective at all in transferring the heat from the NB.
Here if my fix. Cost me less than a dollar at the hardware store and it works ideal thus far. Do this at your own risk. Doing this will probably void any warranty too. All my problems are solved and I am running at 57 degrees, YES, 57 degrees with the stock heatsink and no additional cooling.
For one scrape all that old crap off like I did. Apply your new compound. But when you go to replace your heatsink, use the following method. The trick is to use metal screws with a mobo washer, original springs from the plastic studs and a nylon locknut. Use screws that are the same diameter and length (maybe a tad bit longer) as the plastic retainer studs. Also grab a few of those red nylon mobo washers too, were gonna need them as well.
After scraping and applying compound, reassemble as follows. Screw with washer inserted into the back of the mobo so the threads are out front. The plastic/nylon washer is betweeen the screwhead and the back of the mobo as a insulator. Put the heatsink on. With the threads thru the heatsink already, put the springs on and start spinning on the locknut. I torqued the nut down on the spring until the spring almost became fully compressed. The purpose of the spring here is really to prevent you breaking something and at the same time using the max force of the spring since it weak to begin with. Thats why we need to compress it down pretty much all the way. There will be little to no room in the spring at this point. The heatsink at this point should be pretty solid to the board as well. I noticed with the plastic studs before the heatsink would wobble if you gave it a little rocking back and forth before. Not this time. Shouldn't move much if at all. Remember not to torque down too much. You don't want to go beyond the springs compression. Even if you did by accident, its better then not using a spring at all. If you feel that it starts to feel tight when torquing, you torqued too far. Stop an backup a 1/4 turn or so. It is also very important to make sure both torques are equal on both sides as well. Alternate sides when torquing down. I could tell by how much thread I had left on both sides and by looking for any uneven sides.
To summarize, the compound is a problem no doubt. After you resolve the compound issue, its all about the adequate pressure between the heatsink and the IOH. Much like the amount of pressure needed between your CPU and your heatsink give or take. And the pressure that would be as an aftermarket solution like the thermaltake chipset cooler. You dont see cheesy springs on that. Wake up MSI. Simpy using a more effective spring could save MSI some cash in the long run. I envision a leafsprin design like the thermaltake chipset one. The heatsink design could be better, sure, but the design itself is not the problem. Replace the heatsinks if you would like to, if your overclocking and stuff. Funny, this board I have is a refurb too and only had it for a few weeks. Figured they would have done something about it.
Sorry the pics are not the best. Here is about as close as I could get to the finished product

Problems with iomega External Hard Drive on MacBook Air

Hi community!
I'm experiencing some problems with my MacBook Air and an external hard drive and I'm wondering if anybody would be able to help me out.
I own a MacBook Air running Mac OS X 10.7.3. When I connect my iomega 500GB external hard drive, the Finder is able to pick it up, but when I click on the drive name, it spins forever without the Finder responding for a long time (it basically crashes the Finder with a spinning ball staying forever). The light on the external hard drive flashes intermittently when I first plug it in, but after that stays constantly lit. So I guess the disk has power, but something else is wrong with it.
It was working fine earlier today but I accidentally pulled the cable out while the disk was working. I'm hoping this hasn't permanently damaged my drive.
Any help on what I could do to fix this issue would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
SV

You might try launching Disk Utility, and then select the drive in question to run a "Verify disk" on the drive. This may indicate any errors in the file system of the drive that might be preventing the successful reading of the disk.
If the disk is empty, you may want to re-partition and reformat, so as to start with a "clean slate".

Problems with Monitor after Hard Drive Replacement

I never had any problems with my iBook G4 until the past 6 months. I sent it in once because it wouldn't start up. They were able to fix the problem without replacing the hard drive. It malfunctioned again and the second time they had to replace the hard drive. I've had it back for about a month and 1/2 now and for the past three weeks, whenever I try to use it I get problems with my monitor. I'm not sure if the video card is going out or what? The image on the screen gets chopped up in horizontal and vertical line increments. Its really hard to explain but sometimes it comes in waves and I have to shut down my computer and walk away from it. Other times like right now, I'm able to use it for up to an hour but then it gets choppy again and I can't use it. My Apple Care Protection Plan expires in December and I want to get as much from it as I possibly can before I have to replace the laptop altogether.

sorry,
to clarify, "internal or external;" display
internal = ibook display
external = display connected via display adaptor
Ok, well I max out the graphics on my ibook on regular intervals (games, high-end graphics work, gigabyte photoshop files etc...)
It isn't likely to be the hardware, so here's some suggestions.
LOOSE WIRES/CABLES:
The ibook's internal monitor connects through the central pivot where the ibook opens, the wires in here may be damaged. (you can't fix this yourself, refer it to apple) this could pertain to a loose or defective cable is you are using and apple display connector also.
REFRESH RATE: (this sound like your problem)
to quote a source:
"If the refresh rate is not properly set the monitor may have a wavy or an appearance that lines are going down or across the monitor slowly or fast. This may also cause a flickering affect."
http://www.computerhope.com/issues/ch000242.htm#02
This is set in display preferences. try setting your monitor's refresh rate. (75hz is good)
INTERFERANCE:
Monitors are succeptible to electromagnetic interferance: Speakers, hard drives, phones etc. try moving them away from the monitor.
BAD MONITOR:
finally; and we hope this isn't the problem. if you are not already doing so, connect an external monitor to the ibook using the display connector (VGA only), if the issue persists with the external monitor the problem is software based, if not you probably have once of a small percentage of monitors that just goes "bad" after a time period, unfortunately it's often cheaper to replace an entire unit as opposed to the screen itself (new computer)
Message was edited by: Peter Miller

Windows Media Player 11 problems with SoundBlaster Live! Driv

My sound card stops working as soon as I try to watch a video with WMP. I have a Creative Labs SoundBlaster Li've! with a driver date of 8/29/2002. When I go to adjust audio properties, the system doesn?t recognize the card even though it is still listed in the hardware and says ?Device is working properly. I have reloaded the driver, and the card begins to work again, but as soon as I attempt to view a video, I?m back to the same place.
When I run the diagnostics included with the SoundBlaster card prior to running WMP, it passes on Hardware Detection, Wave Driver, MIDI Driver, DirectSound Driver, DirectSound3D Driver, but not on Mixer Driver, SoundFont Setting and Mixer Settings Check. After I run WMP, the only test that will pass is the Hardware Detection.
I have also tried this with the October 2002 driver set for SoundBlaster. In addition, I have downloaded the most recent driver set from Creative Labs.
I'm running Windows XP SP2.
Other programs like iTunes and various games work after I reinstall the drivers, but will not work after WMP starts. It appears that WMP is the source of the problem. Any suggestions?

Make sure you have the DRM update for the Li've drivers. I suspect WMP is cutting out the sound. Just to make sure that this is in fact the case, you could try playing back your clip with some other media player.

I am having problem with Segate free agent drive.

Since I installed Mountain lion on my iMac 24" I am having problem with a previously installed Seagate drive. When I am in finder and click on the Free Agent drive, I get the following error. VTDecoderXPCService quit unexpectedly. I click reopen and a few seconds later I get same message. This did not occur when I was using Snow Leopard Very annoying. Any suggestions? Note I have many movies and important data on this drive and don't want to lose. What does this error mean and is there some way to correct?

http://changux.co/solving-vtdecoderxpcservice-quit-unexpectedly

Problem with WD passport 1TB drive not mounting on OS 10.5.6. Leopard macbook

I bought a new WD passport 1TB external hard drive and formatted it to FAT 32. It was working fine on my macbook (running OS 10.5.6 Leopard) & i have loaded it with files & also been using it on a windows PC with no problems.
I partitioned my macbook hard drive with bootcamp (the WD drive was plugged into the macbook at the time) and now it will not mount. I unpartitioned the macbook hard drive and restarted. I checked in disk utility and it appears there - I eventually got the option to repair the disk and I tried repairing and verifying the disk. No errors are showing up but it still doesn't mount. I now do not have the option to repair or verify the disk anymore, but its still visible.
It is still working perfectly on the windows PC but I want it primarily for use with my macbook. Is there any way to force mount the drive (the mount button is greyed out in disk utility)

No, the disk set is machine specific.

SB Live 24bit external problems with windows 7 beta driver

Hi, I have a problem with my soundcard with the windows 7 beta driver. An unwanted sound come out when I'm doing something like chatting with Yahoo Messenger or buffering Youtube. I don't know what makes it like that, can you guys help me out, please
Thank you

Maybe you could start by donating something
I'm giving you something Creative would never do, so I think I deserve it, don't you think
Doesn't matter if it is $2 or $5.
All these Vista Support Packs prove my knowledge and are true modifications, not like the current Youp Pax crappy releases from a dumb person who doesn't even know how a INF file works.

Cool & Quiet Problem with K8N Neo Platinum

Hi!
I just formatted my windows xp and encountered weird problem with Cool & Quiet.
Before the format CQ worked perfectly, but now when I apply minimal power management from the properties Windows freezes.
I have 1.2.2.2 drivers installed and CQ enabled from BIOS.
BIOS has been updated to 1.7, 1.9 bugged for me.
Windows XP SP2 + all hotfixes.

Quote from: aicjofs on 09-October-05, 02:49:29
If all he has done is "reformat" windows what would have changed in the BIOS magically? Still seems like the driver to me...Troubleshoot what has obviously changed since things worked normally. If he didn't touch the BIOS and only reinstalled Windows the driver is the logical issue.
Ugh...even in that linked article the guy is saying the HyperTransport is the link between the CPU and Chipset/RAM. There goes this RAM thing again. The memory controller communicates with the DRAM controller no Hypertransport about it...
ok, but where is DRAM controller? in CPU my friend and in Athlon 64 is DRAM controller in CPU so this is HyperTransport - comunication with CPU and memory...no only me has this mention but also another guy and another, so all of us are wrong yout think?

Problems with X-fi Platinum Drive

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for