Recommend a montior for my MBP 13.3"

Hi there,
I finally received my MBP 13.3" a few days ago, after waiting over 3 weeks because of the short supply. I couldn't be a happier PC converter. My old PC (DELL) had a nice big 20" LCD, so moving to the seemingly tiny 13" screen has been a little disappointing. I just purchased a mini displayport => DVI connector to hook up my DELL display, but now I'm dispointent in the quality compared to my MBP... go figure.
Can you recommend a display for my MBP that is at least >20" I know all about the Apple 24" LED Cinema Display, but for $1,000, surely there are better options for cheaper out there...
Any recommendations?
My primary uses are Aperture and Photography.
Thanks in advance.
-Paul
Message was edited by: PaulSu

The Apple 24" monitor is expensive, but you pretty much get what you pay for. And if you get one you could return the $29 DVI adapter.

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I have an early 2011 MBP running Mountain Lion. I just removed the superdrive and added an SSD. I want to use it to boot from and also run Photoshop and Lightroom from. Can anyone recommend a process for moving my OS and those programs to the SSD?

I'm assuming your doing this because of data you don't want pernament on the SSD as they can' be scrubbed like hard drives can.
Disconnect any other drives.
1: Format the SSD 1 partition, click the box, option GUID and OS X extended journaled as the format.
2: Download Carbon Copy Cloner.
3: Clone your MacintoshHD partition to a blank powered external drive also formatted the same as above.
4: Hold option/alt key and boot the machine (wired or built in keyboard) and then select the clone to boot from,
5: Once in the clone, click it's drive name and change the name if it's the same as the OS X boot volume.
6: On the clone, head to System Preferences > Accounts and create a new Admin account.
7: If you need to move files between accounts on the clone, see this. Combine two+ Users Accounts on the same machine (be careful that your selecting the correct clones other account)
8: Once your moving files on the clone is complete, then log into the new user account and delete the old user account.
9: Use Carbon Copy Cloner to clone the clone to the SSD.
10: Use Disk Utiltiy to repair permissions on all drives.
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What is the best system maintenance software to use for a MBP??

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How to maintain a Mac
1. Make two or more backups of all your files, keeping at least one off site at all times in case of disaster. One backup is not enough to be safe. Don’t back up your backups; all should be made directly from the original data. Don’t rely completely on any single backup method, such as Time Machine. If you get an indication that a backup has failed, don't ignore it.
2. Keep your software up to date. In the App Store or Software Update preference pane (depending on the OS version), you can configure automatic notifications of updates to OS X and other Mac App Store products. Some third-party applications from other sources have a similar feature, if you don’t mind letting them phone home. Otherwise you have to check yourself on a regular basis.
Keeping up to date is especially important for complex software that modifies the operating system, such as device drivers. Before installing any Apple update, you must check that all such modifications that you use are compatible. Incompatibility with third-party software is by far the most common cause of trouble with system updates.
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It's not much of an exaggeration to say that the whole "utility" software industry for the Mac is a fraud on consumers. The most extreme examples are the "CleanMyMac" and “MacKeeper” scams, but there are many others.
As a rule, the only software you should install is that which directly enables you to do the things you use a computer for, and doesn't change the way other software works.
Safari extensions, and perhaps the equivalent for other web browsers, are a partial exception to the above rule. Most are safe, and they're easy to get rid of if they don't work. Some may cause the browser to crash or otherwise malfunction. Some are malicious. Use with caution, and install only well-known extensions from relatively trustworthy sources, such as the Safari Extensions Gallery.
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5. Avoid malware. Malware is malicious software that circulates on the Internet. This kind of attack on OS X was once so rare that it was hardly a concern, but malware is now increasingly common, and increasingly dangerous.
There is some built-in protection against downloading malware, but you can’t rely on it—the attackers are always at least one day ahead of the defense. You can’t rely on third-party protection either. What you can rely on is common-sense awareness—not paranoia, which only makes you more vulnerable.
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In OS X 10.7.5 or later, downloaded applications and Installer packages that have not been digitally signed by a developer registered with Apple are blocked from loading by default. The block can be overridden, but think carefully before you do so.
Because of recurring security issues in Java, it’s best to disable it in your web browsers, if it’s installed. Few websites have Java content nowadays, so you won’t be missing much. This action is mandatory if you’re running any version of OS X older than 10.6.8 with the latest Java update. Note: Java has nothing to do with JavaScript, despite the similar names. Don't install Java unless you're sure you need it. Most people don't.
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Need help picking the correct hard drive upgrade for my MBP

I need help picking the correct/best hard drive upgrade for my MBP. It is the 15" 2GHz Core Duo. Came with a spacious 90GB drive.
Suggestions and recommendations very appreciated.

It will take almost any 2.5 inch sata drive.
Take a look at www.newegg.com and www.macsales.com to see what's out there and how much it costs.
Toshiba have a 320gb 2,.5 inch drive in the works, but it's not quite out yet and will be expensive.
I'll start you off..
http://www.newegg.com/Store/SubCategory.aspx?SubCategory=380&name=Laptop-Hard-Dr ives

Whats better for my mbp 2013 retina in the long run? Keep it plugged in as much as possible or letting the battery hit 10% and then recharge it?

Whats better for my mbp 2013 retina in the long run? Keep it plugged in as much as possible or letting the battery hit 10% and then recharge it?

Odd you ask that, since both are HORRIBLE,   ... especially often draining your battery low.
General consideration of your MacBook battery
Contrary to popular myths about notebook batteries, there is protection circuitry in your Macbook and therefore you cannot ‘overcharge’ your notebook when plugged in and already fully charged.
However if you do not plan on using your notebook for several hours, turn it off (plugged in or otherwise), since you do not want your Macbook ‘both always plugged in and in sleep mode’.
A lot of battery experts call the use of Lithium-Ion cells the "80% Rule", meaning use 80% of the full charge or so, then recharge them for longer overall life. The only quantified damage done in the use of Lithium Ion batteries are instances where the internal notebook battery is “often drained very low”, this is bad general use of your notebook battery.
A person who has, for example, 300 charge cycles on their battery and is recharging at say 40% remaining of a 100% charge has a better battery condition state than, say, another person who has 300 charge cycles on their battery and is recharging at say 10-15% remaining on a 100% charge. DoD (depth of discharge) is much more important on the wear and tear on your Macbook’s battery than the count of charge cycles. There is no set “mile” or wear from a charge cycle in specific. Frequent high depth of discharge rates (draining the battery very low) on a Lithium battery will hasten the lowering of maximum battery capacity.
All batteries in any device are a consumable meant to be replaced eventually after much time, even under perfect use conditions.
If the massive amount of data that exists on lithium batteries were to be condensed into a simplex, helpful, and memorable bit of information it would be:
1. While realistically a bit impractical during normal everyday use, a lithium battery's longevity and its chemistry's health is most happy swinging back and forth between 20% and 85% charge roughly.
2. Do not purposefully drain your battery very low (10% and less), and do not keep them charged often or always high (100%).
3. Lithium batteries do not like the following:
A: Deep discharges, as meaning roughly 10% or less on a frequent basis.
B: Rapid discharges as referring to energy intensive gaming on battery on a frequent basis (in which case while gaming, if possible, do same on power rather than battery). This is a minor consideration.
C: Constant inflation, as meaning always or most often on charge, and certainly not both in sleep mode and on charge always or often.
From Apple on batteries:
http://www.apple.com/batteries/notebooks.html
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1446
"Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time."
Keep it plugged in when near a socket so you keep the charging cycles down on your LiPo (lithium polymer) cells / battery, but not plugged in all the time. When not being used for several hours, turn it off.
DoD (depth of discharge) is far more important on the wear and tear on your Macbook battery than any mere charge cycle count. *There is no set “mile” or wear from a charge cycle in general OR in specific.    As such, contrary to popular conception, counting cycles is not conclusive whatsoever, rather the amount of deep DoD on an averaged scale of its use and charging conditions.
                          (as a very rough analogy would be 20,000 hard miles put on a car vs. 80,000 good miles being something similar)
*Contrary to some myths out there, there is protection circuitry in your Macbook and therefore you cannot overcharge it when plugged in and already fully charged
*However if you don’t plan on using it for a few hours, turn it OFF (plugged in or otherwise) ..*You don’t want your Macbook both always plugged in AND in sleep mode       (When portable devices are charging and in the on or sleep position, the current that is drawn through the device is called the parasitic load and will alter the dynamics of charge cycle. Battery manufacturers advise against parasitic loading because it induces mini-cycles.)
Keeping batteries connected to a charger ensures that periodic "top-ups" do very minor but continuous damage to individual cells, hence Apples recommendation above:   “Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time”, …this is because “Li-ion degrades fastest at high state-of-charge”.
                    This is also the same reason new Apple notebooks are packaged with 50% charges and not 100%.
Contrary to what some might say, Lithium batteries have an "ideal" break in period. First ten cycles or so, don't discharge down past 40% of the battery's capacity. Same way you don’t take a new car out and speed and rev the engine hard first 100 or so miles.
Proper treatment is still important. Just because LiPo batteries don’t need conditioning in general, does NOT mean they dont have an ideal use / recharge environment. Anything can be abused even if it doesn’t need conditioning.
Storing your MacBook
If you are going to store your MacBook away for an extended period of time, keep it in a cool location (room temperature roughly 22° C or about 72° F). Make certain you have at least a 50% charge on the internal battery of your Macbook if you plan on storing it away for a few months; recharge your battery to 50% or so every six months roughly if being stored away. If you live in a humid environment, keep your Macbook stored in its zippered case to prevent infiltration of humidity on the internals of your Macbook which could lead to corrosion.
Considerations:
Your battery is subject to chemical aging even if not in use. A Lithium battery is aging as soon as its made, regardless.
In a perfect (although impractical) situation, your lithium battery is best idealized swinging back and forth between 20 and 85% SOC (state of charge) roughly.
Further still how you discharge the battery is far more important than how it is either charged or stored short term, and more important long term that cycle counts.
Ultimately counting charge cycles is of little importance. Abuse in discharging (foremost), charging, and storing the battery and how it affects battery chemistry is important and not the ‘odometer’ reading, or cycle counts on the battery.
Everything boils down to battery chemistry long term, and not an arbitrary number, or cycle count.
Keep your macbook plugged in when near a socket since in the near end of long-term life, this is beneficial to the battery.
In a lithium battery, deep discharges alter the chemistry of the anode to take up lithium ions and slowly damages the batteries capacity for the cathode to transport lithium ions to the anode when charging, thereby reducing max charge levels in mAh. In short, radical swings of power to lithium cells disrupts the chemical ecosystem of the battery to hold charges correctly which likewise impedes the perfect transfer of lithium ions both in charging and discharging. In charging your lithium battery, lithium ions are “pushed uphill” (hard) to the anode, and discharged “downhill” (easy) to the cathode when on battery power. Deep discharges, damages this “upward” electrolyte chemistry for the battery to maintain a healthy charge and discharge balance relative to its age and cycles.
Optimally, in terms of a healthy lithium battery and its condition, it is most happy at 50% between extremes, which is why low-power-drain processors such as the Haswell are ideal on lithium battery health since a partially charged battery with a low-drain processor has, in general, much more usage in hours
Battery calibration, battery memory, battery overcharging, battery training, …all these concepts are mostly holdovers from much older battery technology, and on older Apple portable Macbooks ranging from early nicads, NiMh and otherwise; and these practices do not apply to your lithium battery and its smart controllers.
Calibrating the battery on older Apple portable Macbooks with removable batteries.
http://support.apple.com/kb/PH14087
There is no calibration of current Apple portable Macbooks with built-in batteries.
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1490
There is no battery calibration with current Apple portable Macbooks with built-in batteries. Lithium batteries have essentially a 0-‘memory’, and all such calibration involve the estimations fed to the system controller on the SOC (state of charge) of the battery over long periods of time as the battery degrades. The software based battery controller knows the battery's characteristics, or SOC and adjusts itself. This is why there is both no need and purpose to periodically deeply drain your macbook battery, since it doesn’t affect the characteristics of the battery, and further still deep discharges are something you should not do on purpose to any lithium battery.
From BASF: How Lithium Batteries work
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2PjyJhe7Q1g
Peace

Upgraded 2012 MACBOOK PRO 2.6Ghz 8GB RAM 750 GB an alternate for RETINA MBP 15 or NOT?How good is its potential, reliability ?

I am a student and an aspiring filmmaker.I am also into digital cinematography (Canon 550D) and now will be venturing into editing. I am in DIRE NEED of help
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I want to know whether I can go for the top model of Non Retina - 2.6Ghz 8GB RAM 750 GB 1 GB Nvidea as an alternate choice for Retina MBP pro or NOT ?
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1. I want to know about the real performance, potential, pros, cons of Macbook Pro 15 (i7 2.6Ghz 8GB RAM 750 GB 1GB Nvidea graphics).
So my question to you is what is your opinion on the 15 inch non retina ? HOW FAST do you think is the new upgraded 15inch non retina i7-2.6Ghz-8GB-750GB model really is ?I have read on many mac forums and seen on a particular youtube video that 15inch 2.3Ghz model takes an alarming 40 seconds to start because of traditional hard drive ! A normal DELL Inspiron starts at 15 secs max with i3+4 GB RAM and this particularly confuses me about the whole quad core processing and stuff and speed when running applications like C6,FCP,Lightroom etc is to be determined in regard to the model I want to buy.
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I am a student and an aspiring filmmaker.I am also into digital cinematography (Canon 550D) and now will be venturing into editing. I am in DIRE NEED of help
I have a few problems regarding the purchase of Macbook pro.I live in Kolkata(India).I have been waiting for the past 1 and a half years to buy a Mac but after the release of Retina Macbook pro 15.I am left confused. Its near unupgradability and unreparibility rumors, delayed delivery, and 1st generation hardware issues especially the lack of Optical drive made me reconsider my decision of buying one.
I want to know whether I can go for the top model of Non Retina - 2.6Ghz 8GB RAM 750 GB 1 GB Nvidea as an alternate choice for Retina MBP pro or NOT ?
I wanted to buy the Retina Base model. Though it is very recently launched and there is a big risk buying it because they say it is unrepairable and unfixable as 'everything is glued into the motherboard' dialogue scares me. Something goes wrong after purchase and they send it back to US, is what the Apple officials said. Moreover they don’t keep one on a demo at Apple stores in kolkata. I have searched almost everywhere and have been to many resellers in my city but no use.
NOW,I am very sceptical about custom ordering a Macbook 15 non retina with High-Res 1680X1050p from US.I don’t know how much custom duty or expenses I have to pay and is it safe or not. Time is also a factor. Sadly, I have to buy one in Kolkata (my city) it seems.
I am opting for Macbook Pro 15,2.6 Ghz,8GB RAM. Buying it for the sole purpose of editing(audio, video, photos).I need something which is fast along with a good screen size. My original decision was to buy the 17inch but after the launch of Retina and the upgraded 15 inch, I am only looking forward to the upgraded models. Many say 13 inch is fast, but it features a dual core with a maximum of 2.9Ghz clockspeed. I on the other hand want a quad core i7 with good upgradability options and a good screen size. The 13 inch may be a favorite for many, but I want nothing less than a 15 inch. One good option I get with non Retina 15 is its upgradability, while many say Retina MBP 15 can be made upgradable in future but that time is yet to come and by the time the whole web becomes ‘retina friendly’ and all applications supporting its 2880X1800 resolution, I may end up waiting only. Yes the picture quality remains unbeatable when compared to Retina Pro and it will always be. Though friends, I am a student, I want something which is fast, can run almost anything and future dependable. Retina Mac book Pro in India is 2799 USD - Base model. I cannot pay that amount just for the screen. As far as speed is concerned, I plan to get an OWC SSD and a 16 GB OWC RAM in the future resulting in greater speed when comparing the configuration with Retina 15.That problem is solved.
My problem here is this: The web is filled with reviews and videos of Retina Macbook Pro and the upgraded Macbook Pro 15 is just no where, if you even find a few videos, they only feature unboxing videos of Macbook pro 15 (i7-2.3Ghz-4GB-500GB-500MB Nvidea).Other videos compare the 2.3ghz model with Retina 15 pro. They are not elaborate like the 15 Retina Pro reviews.
I want to know about the real performance, potential, pros, cons of Macbook Pro 15 (i7 2.6Ghz 8GB RAM 750 GB 1GB Nvidea graphics).
So my question to you is what is your opinion on the 15 inch non retina ? HOW FAST do you think is the new upgraded 15inch non retina i7-2.6Ghz-8GB-750GB model really is ?I have read on many mac forums and seen on a particular youtube video that 15inch 2.3Ghz model takes an alarming 40 seconds to start because of traditional hard drive ! A normal DELL Inspiron starts at 15 secs max with i3+4 GB RAM and this particularly confuses me about the whole quad core processing and stuff and speed when running applications like C6,FCP,Lightroom etc is to be determined in regard to the model I want to buy.
A. Is it necessary to buy APPLE CARE WARRANTY when buying a laptop from Apple. What are the benefits and how is it different form the normal customer care ?
B. Please enlighten me on some nice headphones from Sennheizer under 90 USD.I am considering Sennheiser HD 439.I am not a bass freak and I want something to use for listening to voice, loud clear. In short, a headphone for all purpose. I heard the HD 449 is not that good compared to HD 439.They say it is Jazz oriented. Another confusion !
Finally, If you know anyone who knows about this configuration (15inch 2.6 8GB RAM 750GB) and its performance than please help me out my friends. Any small detail, input, you feel like please let me know. Please help me be sure and satisfied am buying my Macbook Pro very soon and I am awaiting your response.

Well, are you talking about a 750 Hard Drive or SSD? If SSD (quite expensive) it will certainly be as fast. One option is to get the smallest HD they have and with the Non Retina you can upgrade the HD to an SSD later or now but save a little money. Check with iFixit or OWC for instructions. HD's do take longer to start up and load, but once open, the processor and video work just the same as on the Retina model. The SSD speed is nice, but really not critical. So you have to wait a minute for your computer to boot up. The other big question is you need to find out if the non-retina model will take 16GB of ram. According to OWC's site, it will, 16GB for 150USD. Once you get programs open and resident in ram, everything will fly.

Recommended transition solution for ISP:s with enterprise customers?

What would be the recommended solution(s) for ISP:s with enterprises only as customers?
It both needs to support IPv6 and at the same time save IPv4 resources.
Thanks in advance!

Hi,
There are many possible choice for a soft transition of the Service Provider:
- Dual-Stack
The SP can run both protocols in the backbone for a while so he can test IPv6 Service by switching some part of the Network to IPv6 Only and see if it is OK. In case there is a problem he can get back to dual-stack, fix the issue and resume its testing until it is Ok and he can allow IPv6 Only.
- It is possible to provide IPv6 Service without upgrading the backbone to IPv6 Immediately using 6RD if the backbone is IPv4 or 6PE /6VPE (I did the dev-test for 6PE and 6VPE for CISCO for 3 years) if the backbone is IPv4/MPLS. This way the SP can start providing both IPv4 and IPv6 without upgrading the backbone. He can then move slowly to IPv6 with a Dual-Stack period not to switch immediately to IPv6 and allow to fallback if soething is not properly configured to work in IPv6 Only.
With 6VPE, the customer benefit of a dual-stack VPN and recently, CISCO has improved the Support of Multicast in MPLS which was main weakness of MPLS based solutions.
Once the SP has migrated to IPv6 Only, it is still possible to offer dual-stack, IPv4 and IPv6 service to its customers using DS-Lite or better, A+P when it will be available as A+P (dIVI-pd based) does not rely on CGN which has a couple of drawbacks for the SPs.
Once the Customer has migrated to IPv6 Only, it is also still possible to access some IPv4 resources (Networks, servers, applications) using NAT64.
I have a presentation for you:
http://www.slideshare.net/fredbovy/transition-to-ipv6-and-security
And you will find more on my page:
http://www.fredbovy.com
I will be glad to help you further.
Fred Bovy
15 years ccie #3013
18 years ccsi #33517 (former #95003)
IPv6 Forum Gold Certified Engineer
IPv6 Forum Gold Certified Trainer
Email: [email protected]
Web: http://www.fredbovy.com
Wicki: http://www.fredbovy.com/MediaWiki
Twitter: http://twitter.com/#!/Fr

This is a workaround for the MBP wireless issue

There have been many topics on the MBP wireless issues already, but I thought some people might find this workaround helpful.
Firstly, my system is a 2.2Ghz MBP, running 10.4.10, and also airport extreme update 2007-04. I am using an airport express base station. My previous Powerbook never had any wireless problems, so I really couldn't blame the basestation for the MBPs poor wireless.
Warning - The workaround requires a little bit of work in the terminal. A little bit of understanding of how networks work is assumed here as well. So it is probably not for everyone ...
What I have observed - whenever the MBP loses connection, the airport basestation IP and MAC addresses are missing from the ARP table.
- To view the ARP table, type (in a terminal window) arp -a.
So, when the MBP wireless hangs, open up the terminal and type that in.
Do a Cntrl-C if the arp command is hanging and not returning anything.
In normal situations, a list of IP addresses and MAC addresses will show up.
As others have already noted, clicking on the airport icon in the menubar, will magically bring the wireless back to life. When this happens, the ARP table also gets magically populated correctly. Coincidence? I think not!
So, the workaround is to store a PERMANENT entry in the ARP table for the airport basestation IP and MAC address. In my case, I can use the Airport Utility software to confirm what the basestation IP and MAC addresses are (note MAC address = Airport ID in Airport Utility). I found the basestation IP=10.0.1.1 and the MAC=0:11:24:07:d7:f
To create a permanent ARP table entry for my airport basestation, I opened up a terminal window, and did the following -
1) login to my administrator account
2) type in the following command sudo arp -s 10.0.1.1 0:11:24:7:d7:f
3) type in my administrator password to authorise the change
4) type in (to confirm the changes have been made) arp -a
5) logout of my administrator account (from the terminal)
Ever since I did this, my MBP wireless performance has been flawless.
Note, if you shutdown or restart your computer, the arp entry disappears. This is ok for me as I hardly ever power down my MBP. As insurance I have added an account startup item to remind me to do the arp table entry.
This workaround is great for me because I don't have a need to use multiple wireless networks. It might not be practical for people who roam around onto different networks.
Give it a go and see if it works for you.
Message was edited by: michael louey

OK, after some further experimenting, I changed the multicast rate on my airport express. It was set at 6Mbps, and I changed it to 2Mbps.
I have read that the default multicast rate for previous 802.11g versions of Airport basestations is actually 2mbps. Excellent results so far !! I have set up a terminal command to continuously ping my airport router address every 15 sec, and there have been virtually no dropped packets so far over many hours.
ping -i 15 10.0.1.1
Interestingly, in Apple's Airport Admin software in my MBP there is no option to set the rate at less than 6Mbps (!!!!), so I had to use the Windows XP version of Airport admin software to make this change using a windows machine. Using the XP software you can set the muticast rate as low as 1Mbps.
If you are using Apples airport admin software (Tiger and Leopard) and you commit any sort of change in settings, the multicast rate will be re-set at a minimum of 6Mbps. My understanding of the multicast rate is that setting it too high is similar to shrinking the coverage area of the basestation, and limiting access only to clients who can transmit at the required multicast rate.
So my new theory is that the dropouts are caused by the MBP dropping off the airport due to not being able to achieve the set multicast rate. (this could be due to factors such as low signal strength, excessive interference or noise).
If you are using Apples more recent Airport admin software, you are having a minimum 6mbps muticast rate set, and this might be too high for your particular environment.
Just a theory.
(oh yeah, I enabled interference robustness on the MBP and the basestation just for good measure)

How do I format and external hard drive for my MBP?

I have an external hard drive that I was using on a windows based system. I backed up the contents to dvd's and now I want to format the drive for my MBP? Can someone please tell me the best way to do this?
Thanks.

All you need to do is…
1) Connect the drive
2) Launch Disk Utility
3) Select the drive and go to the partition tab
4) Click on Options… and chenge it from MBR to GUID Partition Table
5) Create a partition using MacOS Journalled
6) Apply the change and you should have a Mac drive

What DVI connector do I need for a MBP

what type of DVI connector do I need to get for my MBP to connect to a standard LCD projector

From the Apple Store: Mini DisplayPort to VGA Adapter

OS Lion Slow, is it too much for my MBP?

hi everyone-
I have a 2007 model MBP, 2.33 GHz Intel core 2 duo. I upgraded everything I could within the last year with a 500 gb internal hard drive and 4GB 667 MHz memory installed. Out of that 500GB hard drive, almost 290GB are available.
I upgraded to Lion and everything seemed to run well at first and was impressed with the speed. However recently everything has slowed down. I searched the forums and found tips on disk repair and repairing permissions, which ended up making the OS unable to boot at the startup screen. Thank god for time machine. Long story short, I pulled out my old Snow Leopard disk and reinstalled (yes I also tried the lion recovery, which didn't help), and then went and reinstalled lion from the app store. 1 weekend later and now Monday, I'm back to having everything running. However today I am noticing that the apps are lagging once again,and I'm constantly getting the beach ball and little gestures are taking forever to load. Could Lion be too much for my MBP, which up until recently flew?
Any and all suggestions will be helpful. I use my MBP everyday for my workload, so getting this to perform again and keep up with my demand is extremely important.
Thanks!

Check the SMART status in Disk Utility. Other than that, not that I know of. Perhaps more advanced disk utilities like Disk Warrior, but I don't know.
You would hear the disk making a lot of noise if it were having issues accessing a bad sector.
I had a drive that started causing slow-downs and beach balls for a while. Erased drive and reinstalled. Same thing. The SMART status in Disk Utility showed Verified up until the drive died completely.

Is there a recommended (maximum) size for a catalog?

I'm loading all my photos into PSE9 Organizer on my new MacBook Pro and was wondering if there is a recommended maximum size for a catalog? On my PC I separated my catalogs by year. My 2011 folder contains over 11,000 photos and is 71GB. Is that pushing the limits for efficiency or could I combine years?

One catalog for all of your photos makes sense. Alternatively, as Ken said, catalogs by relatively non-overlapping subject matter areas make sense. I still see no scenario where catalogs by years makes sense, unless you can honestly say that you can remember the years of all of your 68000 photos.
Tags and albums let you organize in ways that are nearly impossible using folders. If your daughter is named Jennifer, for example, and you assign the Jennifer tag to all photos that contain her image, then later when you want to search for pictures of Jennifer, you simply click the tag and boom, there are the photos instantaneously. You don't need to know what folder the photos are in, nor do you need to know what date the photos were taken. If you want photos of Jennifer over the years at Christmas, this is a simple search once you tag the photos, and nearly impossible using folders. The possibilites are endless. You let PSE remember where the photos are, so you don't have to. You let PSE do the searching, instead of you searching the folders.

Can anybody recommend a webcam for my G4 Powerbook..?

Hi all,
Can anybody recommend a webcam for my G4 Powerbook..? Can i buy an external iSight cam or stick to a logitech product for example.
I would really appreciate several replies/suggestions to compare compatability, quality and price issues.
Thx in advance,
shane
G4 powerbook 15inch Mac OS X (10.4.7) 1.67GHZ 1MG Ram 100GB hard drive

In addition to specific devices your options are:-
Any Firewire DV output (6 pin to 6pin) Camcorder
Any Firewire Web cam
Any USB cam that has Mac drivers and this Utility http://www.ecamm.com/mac/ichatusbcam/
The chances are that any USB cam is going to have Windows drivers (if you need them for a Intel)
8:55 PM Wednesday; January 31, 2007

Recommend a montior for my MBP 13.3"

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