Right camera for sporting events

I am beginning to put together a "highlight" video of my daughter playing softball. Any advice for what camera I should be looking for and what additional features I need to consider would be greatly appreciated. Right now, I am looking for a camera that can operate on AC, can be monitored via blue tooth or wifi, and records in a format which is easily edited.

So your actually looking for a video camera.
I have a Sony HD Camcorder. Plugs into an AC adapter. Most camcorders will come with an AC power supply. Which is pretty good to have when transferring and for long recording sessions. However, my sony will go for hours on a single charge. It all depends on how high you set the quality.
Canon makes out standing camcorders as well.

Similar Messages

Good Camera for sports & action

I am a photographer for a independent wrestling company and looking to invest in a new camera that matches the quality I need to take quite a few Action shots and fast speed photos I need advice with what would be a good camera for sports or alot of action I need something that will be capable of taking photos when there is alot of movement and not blurr the picture. also that will be good with keeping battery power that wont need to be charged as often or have batteries replaced frequently because these shows can be 1-3 hours long and I dont have time to rotate batteries or worry if the photo is blurred out. if someone can suggest or guide me to a camera that might be affordable or fit the description I will greatly appreciate it I would use this camera often so its got to be something that will be reliable with the job I have

+1 for the D90. Or if a Canon interests you, Canon's T1i is about the same class as the Nikon D90. You'll need to handle both to see which one appeals to you. Or if you are thinking of semi-pro/pro class bodies, look for a used Nikon D300 (can be found used for around $1100) or a new Canon 50D ($1300 @ BB). The 50D kinda falls between the D90 and D300. The 50D and D300 will be bigger than the T1i and D90 physically so if you have smaller hands these may be easier.
Lenses. Since wrestling events I've been too (yes I'll admit I've gone to a WWE event a couple times) the rings are pretty well lit. You may get away with a straight f/4.
Canon has a nice 17-40 ($840) but that may be a bit wide IMO. Maybe start with a 24-105 f/4 IS USM($1250). Only experience I've had with Canon lenses is when I play with friends Canons.
Nikon really doesnt have much for a straight f/4 lens in a range like Canon does (which irks me since theres times I dont need a f/2.8 nor in a shoot where the lense could get damaged). Also Nikon lenses arent exactly cheap and are a bit more $$$ than its Canons counterparts. But the glass IS extremely high quality. For fast action I wouldnt use 3rd party lenses for a Nikon. Nikons AF-S (focus motors are built in the lens) snaps instantly into focus. A screw drive lense (Nikon AF-D) uses the focus motor in the body and is slightly slower. Even my Nikon AF-S 600mm f/4 literally snaps into focus on 550mph jets at airshows. I have a few 3rd party lenses and even though the IQ of the lens is near Nikon quality, focus speed isnt as fast (even Sigma's HSM lenses dont focus as fast as AF-S in my experience).
Which ever brand you get, Canon or Nikon, they are both high quality equipment. I always recommend only these two brands of cameras for DSLR's. These are the two top dogs.
King of the World...

Digital Camera for sports shots

Looking for a camera with great zoom capabilities for the football field, can stop a baseball at 80mph and also take great indoor gym shots for volleyball. Any suggestions?

No point-and-shoot will do well for sports at all. Contrast detection autofocus is just too slow for sports.
For daytime work, you can probably get a much cheaper DSLR setup, and add the "fast glass" later as you discover which shooting situations you feel are lacking.
I'm a Pentax owner, so I can give you an idea of what to look for in an entry level Pentax system, however Canon and Nikon should have similar entry-level setups available.
Pentax K-x "full kit" with 18-55 f/3.5-5.6 and 55-300 f/3.5-5.6 lens: $850. You used get a LOT of savings (close to 50%) on the 55-300 when buying it in the kit - you still get decent savings but not nearly as much as you used to. That'll do the trick to start with for most daytime shooting situations, and some indoor situations (depending on exact lighting levels - while it may all appear similar to the eyes which adjust quite well, indoor lighting brightness can vary a LOT from venue to venue.)
The "full kit" with the 55-300 is out of stock in most places I've looked. Another option is the basic kit with the 18-55 only ($550) and a Tamron 70-300 3.5-5.6 lens ($165) - not quite the image quality of the Pentax 55-300, but still pretty good.
With Canon and Nikon, you'll find base kits (body and 18-55 lens with some sort of stabilization) in the same range as the K-x basic kit. The problem is that since the K-x has in-body stabilization, the Tamron 70-300 is stabilized on Pentax but not Canon/Nikon. That's the disadvantage of Canon/Nikon initially - you pay a per-lens premium for IS that's significant for entry-level lenses. However, Pentax has no first-party glass past 300mm which limits your growth in the Pentax system a LOT. The per-lens IS penalty gets less as lens prices rise with the faster lenses.
Nikon and Canon dominate pro sports photography due to the availability of long fast glass. Nikon is currently doing very well in terms of high ISO noise performance (although right now the K-x is near the top of this category, but Pentax can't match that with their higher-end bodies.)
Also, two things to look for in SLR lens specifications:
1) Focal length. Larger number is better. You want a 300mm lens available for most sports, at least.
2) Minimum aperture. Lower number is better. Consumer grade zooms are usually something like f/3.5-5.6, pro grade zooms are frequently constant f/2.8. An f/2.8 lens will let in four more times as much light as an f/5.6 lens - meaning four times the shutter speed. It'll also autofocus better. Sports with a consumer grade slow lens is tough but doable in daylight, and very difficult indoors (but possible if conditions are just right - my undergrad alma mater's hockey rink is JUST bright enough to get OK pictures from.)
*disclaimer* I am not now, nor have I ever been, an employee of Best Buy, Geek Squad, nor of any of their affiliate, parent, or subsidiary companies.

HD for Sporting Events

When oh when will we be able to get HD programming on games from MSG and NJ Devils hockey?

http://forums.verizon.com/t5/FiOS-TV-Programming/MSG-HD-and-MSG-PLUS-HD/td-p/240888

Best camera for low light and sports

have the sx200is
looking for a newer camera for sports and low light shots

The challenge with sports is that you are REALLY pushing the camera gear to it's limits. Fast action requires fast shutter speeds. But fast shutter speeds demand a lot of light and only outdoor games played during the daytime have that. Indoor games or games played under field lighting at night generally do not have the kind of lighting needed to shoot with fast shutter speeds -- not the kind of shutter speeds needed to freeze action. So this ends up demanding a camera with excellent ISO performance and lenses with very low focal ratios so they can collect a LOT more light when the shutter is open. This gear is expensive.
You will want to consider a reasonable budget depending on what you can afford and the needs of the specific sports.
Are these indoor or outdoor sports? If outdoors, are these played during the day or are they night games?
The "best" camera for sports and low light is the EOS-1D X. It has phenominal low-light performance, has an amazing focus system, and can shoot at 12 frames per second. But it's about $6800 for the "body only" and then you still need lenses. I'm guessing this is probably not what you had in mind. But if money were not a constraint... this would be the one to go for.
The 5D III is another amazing camera for low light performance and and also has an amazing focusing system (largely the same as the 1D X) can shoot at 6 frames per second, and only costs $3500... again, that's the "body only". Still probably not what you had in mind.
The 70D has an extremely good focus system (though not as good as the 5D III and 1D X), not quite as good as low light (but pretty good and much better than a point & shoot camera) and shoots at 7 frames per second (1 fps faster than 5D III) and it only costs $1200 for the body only.
The T5i will be noticeably less expensive than the 70D... a good (but not extremely good) focusing system and 5 frames per second, but the body and 1 kit lens combined is about $850 but that wont a lens suitable for use shooting sports so you'll still need to invest in more appropriate lenses.
When shooting action photography in low light, what you _really_ want is a lens that can collect a lot more light than the average lens for that very brief moment when the shutter is open. Such a lens can allow you to use a faster shutter speed to help freeze those action shots. But *which* lens you use depends on the sport.
For low-light sports, these would ideally be f/2.8 zoom lenses... but f/2.8 zoom lenses are not cheap. Canon's EF 70-200 f/2.8L IS USM (ideal for most indoor sports and outdoor sports IF the action is happening close to you) is about $2500. Sigma's lens is about half that price. But if you're covering action on a large athletic field and the players are far away, they'll still be small. Sigma makes a 120-300mm f/2.8 zoom for sports... for the low low price of only $3600.
Scott Kelby does a video to talk about sports photography and he discusses the equipment used and why... and basically says if you want the gear for shooting sports, you basically need a suitcase full of money.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

Which camera body next for sports and low light?

All: I have that bug to get another Canon body. I have the opportunity to get a 7D for a little over $400, but is this the camera for me? I have gone from the Canon XTI to the Canon 60D. I love the 60D and thought of getting a 2nd body to keep the camera stuff (charger, batteries and SD cards) simpler and convenient. But I have been thinking of upgrading, if I am going to look for a 2nd body. I shoot a lot of low light and sports (soccer, basket ball and baseball mostly). To help with the low light, I upgraded my telophoto lens from a Tamron AF Aspherical XR DI LD(IF) 28-300 that is great for outdoors, but struggles a little inside.To upgrade that, I bought the Canon Zoom Lens EF 70-200mm 1:2.8 L. This lens took care of my low light indoor problem with school concerts. In reading a little, they say the 7D is the way to go. But it is the first series, not the 2nd. Does that really matter? Instead of reading for hours, days and weeks, can some of you shed some light on what you think? I am also trying to stay in a reasonable budget of less than a $1000. Don't tell the wife I have the bug. That I will worry about after I decide what might be right. I look forward in hearing from the forum and I thank you ahead of time for your feedback and suggestions.

All: I have that bug to get another Canon body. I have the opportunity to get a 7D for a little over $400, but is this the camera for me? I have gone from the Canon XTI to the Canon 60D. I love the 60D and thought of getting a 2nd body to keep the camera stuff (charger, batteries and SD cards) simpler and convenient. But I have been thinking of upgrading, if I am going to look for a 2nd body. I shoot a lot of low light and sports (soccer, basket ball and baseball mostly). To help with the low light, I upgraded my telophoto lens from a Tamron AF Aspherical XR DI LD(IF) 28-300 that is great for outdoors, but struggles a little inside.To upgrade that, I bought the Canon Zoom Lens EF 70-200mm 1:2.8 L. This lens took care of my low light indoor problem with school concerts. In reading a little, they say the 7D is the way to go. But it is the first series, not the 2nd. Does that really matter? Instead of reading for hours, days and weeks, can some of you shed some light on what you think? I am also trying to stay in a reasonable budget of less than a $1000. Don't tell the wife I have the bug. That I will worry about after I decide what might be right. I look forward in hearing from the forum and I thank you ahead of time for your feedback and suggestions.

Best video camera for Mac's

Hi, not sure if I am in the right place or not but here goes ... I am looking for a video camera to take mostly home movies, my son's lacrosse games, kids' Christmas concerts etc. I was looking at some models today and the salesperson told me that the Sony's are not compatible with Mac's. Is this true? I am looking to spend up to $700. I liked the ones that had 40x zoom (good to see the net from the back of the arena). I also don't know if its better to get a video camera with a hard drive or a memory card. I don't anticipate that I would do a lot of editing but I think I would like to edit games and concerts, etc, to the shorter movies to send to the grandparents. Any suggestions, thanks for the advice.
Carla

Oh, whether you should get one with a hard drive is a matter of opinion. I've heard pros and cons about hard drive versus tape. Some people say that if you're recording a long, action packed event like a sports event, a hard drive would be better because you don't have to worry about switching out tapes. On the other hand, if you're on a trip, the hard drive can fill and you have no way to download it, unless you have your computer with you. You also take a chance of the hard drive failing before you can get your footage off of it. But one of the technicians at the Sony service center near where I live, said that this isn't an issue for him because he downloads her footage within a day or two.

Live Capture During Sporting Event

I would like to capture as I go during a sporting event. Lots of starts and stops between plays. Is this possible? Thanks!

One other suggestion. Run a second camera. You never know when some giant person will decide to stand up right in front of your camera at a critical moment. Run tape in it too.
And just to back up all the nay sayers, a short story. This summer I decided to do a time lapse video of a simple 1 day construction project (rebuilding a wood shed). I've done these videos over the years and they yield fun results. The camera was set up where no one would touch it and the computer was placed in a secure flat spot. Power was provided to both camera and computer and both were under cover if it started to rain.
The capture was started (using Premiere 6.5s interval capture btw) and it was grabbing a frame every 15 secs as requested. Well, about 3 hours into the deal, someone came by and decided the computer looked too vulnerable where I placed it and closed the lid. I didn't see this happen as I was in the middle of ripping some 2x8s to use as braces. We worked into the early afternoon and broke for lunch. As I was walking over to get my cooler, I noticed the computer lid was closed and guess what - it put the computer to sleep. All capturing stopped at that point and I had no tape running in the camera. When I opened up the computer lid, the machine came back to life and was trying to make up for lost time BUT, there were NO images from the period with the lid closed, which was during the critical construction stages. Oh well, lesson learned. There will be a TAPE BACKUP next time.
The moral (if there is one) If it's not a well intentioned friend trying to 'save' your equipment, its a totally clueless bystander who doesn't care one whit about you, your equipment or your project who will block the camera, knock over the computer or generally screw up the process. The only way to salvage these situations is to have backup plans and redundant capture devices.
Still, it can be done.
x

What is the best camera for me?

I don't know much at all about cameras, so I'm really hoping someone will be able to help me! I'm looking for a camera that's better than your standard point and shoot digital camera but one that doesn't cost a fortune. I want to be able to take pictures of NASCAR cars going down the track without them being blurry. I would also like to be able to take pictures of things that are sitting still or aren't going quite 200 mph. I guess I just want an all around good camera that also has the ability to take good, non-blurry pictures of NASCAR cars in motion. I was wondering if anyone could tell me what the best camera and/or lense would be for this. Thanks so much for your help!

This is one instance where good gear helps but knowing how to use it properly is more important. Panning skills will be important, & so will choosing the right focal length of lens. I'll assume you have to shoot from the stands but don't know how far you'll be from the stretch of track you're hoping to shoot the cars along. A camera with a good AF system matched to a lens with fast AF capabilities will help too, but you could do this old school & use manual settings & manual focus too. You would set up the camera based on the lighting favoring a Tv that can freeze the car but blur the background & wheels / tires. Then you pick an ISO to allow shooting in the f8 range at that Tv & pre focus on the section of track in front of you. Pan with the car or group of cars as they go by & take a few shots while they are in the zone you've pre focused on.
If however you're really serious about it & think you'll attend enough events to justify spending the money the 7D, 1D2n, 1D3 & 1D4 are all worthy bodies for action thanks to their AF systems & frame rate. For lenses I suggest considering any of these as a starting point but again you may need longer depending on access to the action. 70-200 f4 L, or the IS version or maybe the f2.8 versions but since the 70-300 L IS seems to have both a very fast & accurate AF system it would be my first choice as a from the stands starting point. The 100-400 L would be my next addition to a motorsports kit but I don't think it's the lens I'd start with.
As for setting up a camera for action (DSLR's but some P & S may work too) I wrote an article which is a good starting point & the suggested shutter speeds for prop planes fit a rookie shooting motorsports so I recommend reading this plus use the link in my last post for another set of lessons from Canon that you should read.
http://www.rccanada.ca/rccforum/showthread.php?t=147971
As a side note I started attending R/C events to work on my panning skills so I'd be better at the track. A smooth panning swing is developed through practice & it's the key to good results, and follow through after the last shot in each sequence.
"A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

Trying to find the right camera

I have a Kodak EasyShare Z740. It has 5 megapixels and 10X optical zoom. It's good outdoors if it's sunny, or indoors with decent lighting (and it takes very good sports/fast action photos). Unfortunately, I can't seem to take photos if I'm outdoors at night. If I have the "sports" setting on, the picture comes out dark, even if I have the flash on. If I have the "night" setting on, the pictures tend to come out blurry.
My parents were supposedly trying to look for a camera for me for Christmas, but they've given up, cuz the prices are higher than they're willing to spend (my family has a tight budget this year, as do a lot of people). I don't know how much my parents really bothered to look at cameras and whether or not they bothered to ask for a salesman's opinion.
I just explained to my parents that I've been getting extremely frustrated because I go to a lot outdoor sporting events (i.e. baseball games) where I take pictures, but once the sun starts setting and the stadium lights turn on, I can't seem to take good pictures. Yet I see pictures that people upload, so it feels like I'm alone. My parents seem to think this is nothing and my camera is fine, but they barely know how to use their camera.
I assume I really need a camera with more than 5 megapixels. Anyone know of any make/models that won't break the bank?

Hi fowkeska,
Your described shooting condition of sports photography at night and outdoors is one of the most challenging photographic situations, and would be a challenge no matter what camera you have. The challenge really lies with availability of light. Even thought the human eye might see a scene as illuminated adequately at night, a camera does not. To capture an image at night using the available light you will need to set your camera's ISO to 800, which can only be done when the picture quality is set to good. Even at ISO 800 your pictures might turn out blurry, which usually means the camera is setting the shutter speed too slow. You could think about using the flash, but according to your manual when you are shooting a wide-angle shot the flash will only reach to 16 feet at ISO 168, and to 12 feet when set to telephoto. If you’re on a budget there is really is not camera that would do any better than what you have. More megapixels will not make an image that is incorrectly exposed look any better, but if an image is correctly exposed it will have better resolution if the camera has more megapixels. For this photographic situation I would look into getting a DSLR, which should allow you to set much higher ISO settings and allow you to use a much more powerful flash. I hope this helps!
Thanks for posting,
Allan
Community Connector
Best Buy® Corporate
Allan|Senior Social Media Specialist | Best Buy® Corporate
Private Message

Notification for reconciliation events.

I have configured the task in the Design console for receiving the email notification for the recon events (insert and update) for xellerate User process form.
The steps that I followed are:
In the Design Console add the email notification information in the Reconciliation Insert Received (or Reconciliation Update Received) process task for Xellerate User:
a. Open Process Management - Process Definition and query for "Xellerate User"
b. Double-click on the box to the left of the task "Reconciliation Insert Received" (or "Reconciliation Update Received").
c. In the pop-up window, click on the Assignment tab and configure to use the default rule, target type User, and set the "User" column to the login of the user who should receive the email notifications.
d. Click on the Notification tab and check the "Assignee" checkbox, set the status to "C" for Completed, and then set the Email column to the email template to send.
I have setup the Email Server IT Resource as well as the email Ids.Still I am not receiving any emails for the events.
Am i doing something wrong in the design console configuration?
Any help is appreciated.Thanks

In Assignment tab - As you have configured assignment of this user to some user, you can configure email as follow
Scroll right - provide email template name under "Email Name", click on check box "Send Email"
Run PurgeCache.sh after these changes.

How do I set up multiple alerts for one event?

So, I'm currently using MS Exchange to sync my google calendar with my iphone5, and almost everything's working pretty nicely, events would get pushed to my phone right away as I put it on my computer. But the thing is, my phone will only alert me for the earliest alert if I had multiple alerts set up for one event on google calendar. How can I fix it? Any advice would be appreciated!

I have a similar issue with a slight twist.
I have 'My Card' setup properly, however, I do have 5 email addresses that I use and these are listed on 'My Card'. When I select the option to add an email alert on a calendar event, the app is picking up two addresses from the set of 5 and makes me pick one.
I would like to select one of the other addresses to be the default for sending out the alerts. Is there a way to do that. If it is helpful, the app is picking up 2 of the 'Work' email addresses. I don't know if the home vs work designation would make a difference.
Note: I am looking for a solution to pick one a specific address from the contact card to send out the alert email. I am NOT looking to have a discussion as to why I have 5 addresses.
Thanks

How can I add a contact on the calendar for an event

How can I add a contact on the calendar for an event

It is between Repeat and Alert on my iPhone 5 with iOS 6.0.1
I used the + on the top right to add the event and when you look vertically starting with the name, followed by location and then time the rest of the default things includ Invitees, among other items.

I can see my thumbnails for my events in iphoto, but when I click to open the folder, no photos show up. However, when I hover over the thumbnail, it shows the flicker of images that should be inside the folder, as well as

I can see my thumbnails for my events in iphoto, but when I click to open the folder, no photos show up. However, when I hover over the thumbnail, it shows the flicker of images
that should be inside the folder, as well as # of images in each folder. It also occasionally says the following when I try to even open iphoto: "Your photo library will not be readable by previous versions of iPhoto after the upgrade. The upgrade process for very large libraries may take an hour or more to complete." So, I am scared to hit "upgrade" for fear I will never recover any of the images as the wording in this quote seems odd. The photos are not in the trash. Did I lose them all? Do you know if/how I can retrieve them?

iPhoto 08?
Try these in order - from best option on down...
1. Do you have an up-to-date back up? If so, try copy the library6.iphoto file from the back up to the iPhoto Library (Right Click -> Show Package Contents) allowing it to overwrite the damaged file.
2. Download iPhoto Library Manager and use its rebuild function. (In Library Manager it's the FIle -> Rebuild command)
This will create an entirely new library. It will then copy (or try to) your photos and all the associated metadata and versions to this new Library, and arrange it as close as it can to what you had in the damaged Library. It does this based on information it finds in the iPhoto sharing mechanism - but that means that things not shared won't be there, so no slideshows, books or calendars, for instance - but it should get all your events, albums and keywords, faces and places back.
Because this process creates an entirely new library and leaves your old one untouched, it is non-destructive, and if you're not happy with the results you can simply return to your old one.
3. If neither of these work then you'll need to create and populate a new library.
To create and populate a new *iPhoto 08* library:
Note this will give you a working library with the same Events and pictures as before, however, you will lose your albums, keywords, modified versions, books, calendars etc.
In the iPhoto Preferences -> Events Uncheck the box at 'Imported Items from the Finder'
Move the iPhoto Library to the desktop
Launch iPhoto. It will ask if you wish to create a new Library. Say Yes.
Go into the iPhoto Library (Right Click -> Show Package Contents) on your desktop and find the Originals folder. From the Originals folder drag the individual Event Folders to the iPhoto Window and it will recreate them in the new library.
When you're sure all is well you can delete the iPhoto Library on your desktop.
In the future, in addition to your usual back up routine, you might like to make a copy of the library6.iPhoto file whenever you have made changes to the library as protection against database corruption.

Video camera for greenscreen work +

Hi. I'm going to be setting up an in-home studio for a weekly, 1 hour show (to be viewed on the internet, not sure if could ever get it onto public access stations but might like the option).
The studio will be 20' long by 16' wide (probably minus a carveout for a bathroom) - but will retain a 20' length for filming.
For noise control, planning to hang heavy black curtains on the sides and camera end, add some carpeting, and possibly some simple / inexpensive treatment on ceiling as well. Will either paint back wall green or get some chromakey material to shoot against. WIll have a desk with 1-4 people for the show, positioned 6-8 feet from the greenscreen, and the camera on the other end (roughly 12 feet away)
I'm trying to keep the cost as low as possible, but would like it to be a step up from my $200ish consumer camcorders (a JVC Everio and a Canon HV20), so I've been looking at some used Prosumer or Professional Video Cameras that would allow me to capture the 4:2:2 colorspace I want to do for improved Chroma Keys. (I have Adobe Master Suite CS6 and will be doing my work in After Effects and Premiere)
We have a Sony DSLR A200 which came with a couple of lenses, but don't have any additional lenses beyond that (or much camera experience - so all sugestions welcome).
Cameras I've considered include
Sony HVR-V1U which I can get locally for about $1000 or less; one just sold on Ebay for $800ish - I'm a bit reluctant to make that big of a purchase there, but might consider it if a well established seller / store - B&H suggested this camera didn't give you 'true' 4:2:2 colorspace via HDMI; Sony said it did give you the colorspace, what was lacking in these earlier models (or hmdi ports maybe) was ability to transmit full intensity data (for brightness)
Think I might need to buy an HDMI Capturing device to get the 4:2:2 signal - Atomos Ninja 2 runs just under $700, lets you record directly to Hard Drives so fairly inexpensive option for massive storage; Have also seen a variety of products from Blackmagic (Intensity Pro - and Hyperdeck Shuttle - ranging from $150ish-$350ish)
Canon XF100 is newer, seems to be a superior camera. Records onto generic Compact Flash cards (which could help limit expense and make for easy editing); and meets 'broadcast standards' of 50Mbps at full HD, and might not need external HDMI capture - saw these at B&H for between $2000 used, $2500 new; Currently listed for $2100 at 42nd Street Photo.com - which looks legitimate as best I can tell.
Heard BlackMagic Pocket Cinema Camera mentioned as well - much cheaper, roughly $1000 for new - but seemed like those might need a variety ofa dd o (dont know if compatible with my Sony lenses) - and require fast (expensive) SD cards
Would welcome any advice about good video camera for greenscreen work - along with any experience on the Atomos Ninja 2 or Blackmagic products retailed above (and any tidbits on setting up audio/video studio; will be recording some music in there as well)
Thanks

It's a trade-off ... which is to say, it's like Life in general, right?
That many people that close-in is gonna be awful tight. Two people, ok ... three pushing it ... four is gonna work you some. Getting talent any farther away from the background given the limited distance the camera can move is not likely, without getting too wide a view from the cam exposing off-screen areas.
As to the screen blending into the floor ... you can affix the front edge out from the wall such as to get a curved shape that can visually blend wall into floor, you need a good two-feet radius to pull it off though. And if someone steps back, um ... yea, screens and photog's background paper can easily get a fresh new hole in them.
The "cove" backdrop support is a common commercial photographers tool ... needs to have at least a two-foot radius to be able to blend it visually from floor into wall. Often made by cutting 1/4" ply into 4-foot squares, then drawing a circle on them with a 2-foot radius, cutting out with a jig saw ... resulting in four corner sections that will be used for building the cove itself. Each with that radius of a circle cut out of it. Screw some small wood blocks onto the straight sides, using these blocks to fasten the cove-form sections to the wall and floor, then maybe three blocks flush with the edges of the cove one in the middle of the arc, then equidistant each side from there. Measure from an inch or two off the cove form onto the floor up flush with the bend of the cove and an inch or two past the cove-form up the wall. Cut a strip of 1/4" ply or masonry board or whatnot (some short of thin bendable but tough sheet good) that fits this dimension, push them tight to the form and screw through the sheets into the woodblocks on the cove forms.
Then your screen material can just drap over it and you won't step through it. We built one for our studio, it's 12 foot wide, works great ... and put two layers of 1/4" ply over it, the first stopping just at the edge of the cove form, the other going past that another inche and a half or so.

Right camera for sporting events

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