Set Ups Used for Vinyl Music into iTunes

Hello, With excellent advice provided by HPM3 & Tracy Reynolds recently regarding software & process used to get vinyl music into iTunes, I'm now curious as to what hardware set up people use to transfer vinyl to digital for importing into iTunes. After some research and reading reviews about usb turntables I'm now wondering which is the preferred (or best) method of this transfer process. USB Connection or PreAmp,Turntable & Line In to computer. From what I've read so far it appears the direct line in connection produces a better consistent quality of sound as opposed to USB Turntable connection. I was wondering what the majority of iTunes music lovers use to do this and what their system set ups are and connections used. I, like most people are trying to accomplish the best consistent quality of sound. Curious as to what is your set up, how connected and if you are satisfied with it considering the end result of iTunes Music. I suppose the end question is for the people who have accomplished the vinyl transfer into iTunes what do you think is the best way to do it hardware and connection wise.
Thanks for any responses.
bg

Hello, With excellent advice provided by HPM3 & Tracy Reynolds recently regarding software & process used to get vinyl music into iTunes, I'm now curious as to what hardware set up people use to transfer vinyl to digital for importing into iTunes. After some research and reading reviews about usb turntables I'm now wondering which is the preferred (or best) method of this transfer process. USB Connection or PreAmp,Turntable & Line In to computer. From what I've read so far it appears the direct line in connection produces a better consistent quality of sound as opposed to USB Turntable connection. I was wondering what the majority of iTunes music lovers use to do this and what their system set ups are and connections used. I, like most people are trying to accomplish the best consistent quality of sound. Curious as to what is your set up, how connected and if you are satisfied with it considering the end result of iTunes Music. I suppose the end question is for the people who have accomplished the vinyl transfer into iTunes what do you think is the best way to do it hardware and connection wise.
Thanks for any responses.
bg

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    Message was edited by: Barbara Passman3

    Work Flow - Recording a vinyl LP to the Mac for iTunes
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    * Provide an RIAA EQualization curve - this can be done with hardware or software
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    * Clean the vinyl LP:
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    This will leave some lint, so clean again by using the Discwasher brush (http://www.needledoctor.com/Discwasher-D4-Kit?sc=2&category=108), held lightly, on the LP as it rotates on your turntable. After using up my Discwasher fluid, I started mixing my own: half distilled water and half isopropyl alcohol.
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    - Refer to your software help files to learn how to set input and output, save preferences, and to enable pass through, if needed, so you can hear what you are recording.
    - Next, you will need to set the "level" to be as strong as possible without clipping. Clipping results in distortion when the signal is too strong. If the signal is too weak, the recording will be noisy because the junk will be louder relative to the desired audio. Audio Hijack Pro has "VU Meters" with clipping indicators, and you can set up a "Gain" control to increase or decrease the signal strength. You may need to visit the Mac's "Sound" Preference Pane>Input Tab, to change the signal strength at the system level.
    - Your recording software may offer a few - or many - filters and effects. Filters and effects are available as plugins, so you may be able to find even more as free downloads or for sale. Many filters and effects are going to be of interest only to sound engineers and only for rare special circumstances. Some are quite useful when cleaning up tape or microphone recordings, but I have not found any which are very effective on LP-type pops and scratches. You can waste a LOT of time playing around with these.
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    If your recording software offers these features, here is something you may want to try when recording LPs. One is a feature to automatically detect the "silent" groove between tracks so the finished recording will consist of a separate file for each track. You may have to adjust some sensitivity settings to get this to work, and I found it to be somewhat fussy.
    Another useful feature is a Pause button, so you can turn over an LP without actually stopping and restarting the recording - and also without the sounds of picking up the needle from side A and setting it down on side B. The pause feature is especially nice when the LP is really one long recording, such as a symphony.
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    * Edit:
    If your finished recording lacks tracks, you can re-create them by using the "split" feature of your editing software - which may be the same as your recording software, or something different. I really like Fission for simple editing like splits, cuts and fades, and they claim it's "lossless" even when editing MP3s (http://rogueamoeba.com/fission/). It's particularly good for trimming off the "silent" grooves at the start and end of the LP where the pops are much more obtrusive. For applying filters and equalization, I stick with Audio Hijack.
    The Holy Grail for LP recordings is trying to eliminate pops and scratches. I can't offer too much encouragement. Nothing I've tried has been very effective in reducing pops and scratches, and everything I've tried which has helped, has also degraded the recording somewhat, usually dulling the sound a little.
    "CD Spin Doctor" is somewhat useful, offering separate sliders for applying "De-click" De-crackle" and "De-hiss". The effect can quickly be previewed, and after you get the degree of adjustment you want, it can be applied to the whole file (works on AIFF, not MP3). My copy of CD Spin Doctor came with Toast Titanium 6, but I see it is now being sold on Roxio's site as a stand-alone application ($40 - http://www.roxio.com/enu/products/spindoctor/overview.html). Sadly, the improvement I've seen in LP noise has been less than miraculous.
    Many reviewers say great things about SoundSoap2, but I was disappointed. It is the best noise reduction software I have tried, and also the most expensive ($129 - http://www.bias-inc.com/products/soundSoap2/), but I was unable to make much improvement in LP pops and scratches without also degrading the overall quality of the audio. It has a "Learn Noise" feature which is very cool - in theory. Find a groove to sample with pops (but no music) and SoundSoap2 will eliminate the same noise profile from the entire recording. There is another cool feature in which you can listen just to the "noise" which is to be removed - and there you will hear the learned "pop" also includes quite a bit of the music spectrum.
    SoundSoap2 is pretty good at cleaning up hiss from tape recordings and wind noise from microphone recordings, but not so good for LPs.
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    I haven't tried "ClickRepair" which I just learned about from this thread, but after reading the website (http://wwwmaths.anu.edu.au/~briand/sound/) and Version Tracker, I'm hopeful that it will perform better than CD Spin Doctor and Soundsoap2. Thanks for the tip.
    * Import into iTunes:
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    Next, I burn one or two "master" copies of the edited recording as an audio CD form the AIFF files. Be aware that if you burn an audio CD, the album and track names you edited will appear only when you insert that CD back into the same Mac it was burned on - take it to another Mac or PC and all you will see are the Generic names (track 1, etc) - this is normal for an audio (AIFF) CD.
    Because they take up so much room, I don't keep AIFF files on my hard drive - I use iTunes to convert them to MP3 files (Advanced>Convert Selection to MP3). You may want to use AAC or some other format, instead. Consider all possible future uses of your iTunes library (iPod vs non-Apple MP3 player, compatibility with the CD player in your car or home stereo, quality of your playback equipment, etc.)
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    If I want a music mix to listen to in my car, or for a party, or for background music while I work, the MP3 files on my hard drive are fine. However, if I really want to listen to the music on quality playback equipment, I'll choose the CD I burned from the uncompressed (AIFF) file.
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