Still images shaky

Hello, I am new to Final Cut Express. When I use the "Freeze Frame" option to make a picture from a frame of video it makes my still images shaky. I know in other programs I have had to deinterlace my video when I did this. Do I have to do this in FCE? If so, how do I do it?
Thanks!

Yes, you do. Effects>Video Filters>VIdeo>Deinterlace

Similar Messages

Still images appear shaky.

Hi, I'm trying to burn a video I made in Final Cut to DVD, and when I watch the quicktime version of the video, everything is fine, but whenever I put it to dvd, these two stills come out shaky. What I did in Final Cut was freeze frame a shot when I wanted to transition. It looks great output from Final Cut, but whenever I burn it through iDVD, just the two still images are very shaky. What am I doing wrong? I am not sure how to adjust the burn speed if maybe that is the problem. It's just a regular 4:3, and I have tried both best quality, and best performance outputs. Any ideas? Thanks!

Hi Joseph
My bet is - this is due to interlaceing.
I would make new freeze frames - but +/- 1 frame from Your selected one.
I have connected my Camera via FW to Mac and to analog out a TV-set.
Now I can judge the result better and I think I can track those vibrating
freeze frames better by looking at the TV.
You could try to save out the freeze frames and use JES Deinterlacer and see
if this might remove every second line and replace them with the odd no.
=> Stop flickering.
Other flickerings originate in photos with very thin lines - to solve this I open
the photo in PhotoShop and apply Gausian Blurr => slightly unsharp but
a much more enjoyable picture on TV.
Yours Bengt W

Shaky still images

I have imported still images, jpeg files and they are shaky. I am having problems with them being shaky when I make some keyframe movements, mostly zooming in. I saw on the discussion it was suggested to reduce the size of the jpeg file which I did to 2048 x 1536. That seemed to work until I went further into my project adding more clips and still images to it. Suddenly, those still images added much earlier and working fine are now shaky. I tried the flicker filter setting it to max, and the image stablizer filter. Did not work. I saw someone said to check that the field dominance is set to none which they are. Also someone suggested adding gaussian blur filter. That made it not shaky but the quality of the photo is horrible, blurred as the effect suggests. Anyone have any suggestions?
Mac OS X (10.4.9)

Gaussian blur is the way to go, but you are in control of what it does. You can get great results with a little time spent. Remove interlace and flicker filter to do this.
Before you go to blur, check your levels. If your whites are peaking out of "legal" range you have a different problem and the blur won't completely take care of the jitters. Now for the blur:
- Use it vertically only. There's no need to add blur to the horizontal because that's not where the problem is. What you're doing is trying to mix just enough of adjacent video lines together so their contrast doesn't cause flickering.
- Use it extremely lightly. If your pictures were at sequence resolution you would probably want it set between .1 and .3 - in your case it's more but you don't say what your sequence rez is.
- Set it so the blur is gone, then back off untill you see a little bit of jitter. A small amount is often unnoticeable, and if you're right at the edge you're maintaining maximum resolution in the image.

Shaky still images in burned iMovie/iDVD project

Hello all, I've stopped by the discussion forums in the past for quick fixes to problems when they come up, this is my first post though that doesn't seem to address anything I've found on here...
I am working on a project that takes scanned pictures from regular print photos into iMovie 6 and then burned into iDVD 6. I have done this similar style of work several times and never run into this problem. The project looks fine in both iMovie and iDVD preview, and burns fine to disc. As soon as it is popped into a DVD player, some of the still images flash and shake around, it appears to happen on the same images every time.
The original project used about 100 photos, around 12 minutes of movie time. It uses only still pictures and there are cross dissolve transitions between each one. I have tried dragging and dropping the iMovie project into iDVD instead of using 'share'. I also saved as a disk image and burned slowly (4x) not only on my SuperDrive but on an external LaCie drive. I've even started a brand new project file, imported the pictures again from iPhoto and everything... still no luck. I've done about 5 trials now with these different settings, no luck. I use Verbatim DVD-r disks as well...
I've even tried scanning a few images and replacing them, thinking the file might be corrupted, but this isn't fixing the problem. Is there some setting that I'm missing or any other suggestions you have?
I'm trying to save a trip down to see a genius, but if I can't get any help I'll have no choice but to make the 3 hour drive to the nearest apple store. Hopefully someone has some suggestions! Thanks!

Hi
A. I don't use the *Share/Export to iDVD* function in iMovie. iMovie rendering can harm
the photos in a movie.
I do: close iMovie, Open iDVD and import the movie project here (icon with a Star on it)
or just drop the icon into iDVD.
B. Some photos with thin lines most often starts to flicker when viewed on a TV.
I do: In a photo editing program eg PhotoShop or Elements: Apply *Gausian blurr*.
Just slightly. Resulting in non-flickering photos.
C. One can rather easily find out if this will occure by:
• Connect Your miniDV (tape) Camera via FireWire.
• Analog out of Camera to a TV-set
• Set in iMovie. Playback via Camera
Now You see on the TV what the final Quality will be like.
• Flicker (add Gausian Blurr to those photos)
• Color, brightness & contrast
• Over all playback rythm and sound
Yours Bengt W

Why do my still images look shaky after I burn them to DVD?

Hello all,
I'm in need of some help. I'm making a 30 second commercial with still images. The first problem is when I burn them to DVD and view them on my TV the shake. It looks fine on Youtube because I had to place it there for my boss to review. Any idea why this is happening?
I'm exporting to Compressor then burning using DVD Studio Pro.
Also, I put the color bars in but I don't hear a sound on the DVD or in the sequence line but I do if I'm in the View window.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I've got a 9:30 am deadline for submission!

thanks, i tried the deinterlace but can't watch on the dvd player till the morning. 6:30 am i'll try to see if that worked. if not i'll try your other suggestion. gotta take a quick nap
thanks so much!!!
sandy

Adding animated gif to a still image, how do I do this?

I used to know how to do it, but I've forgotten.
Example: The person who told me how to do it had taken an animated gif (butterfly) and placed it on her breast in a still photo of herself. I know that she used Image Ready and as I recall, she created the same number of frames of the still image as the animated butterfly and then she somehow merged the two together. Can someone help, is there a tutorial somewhere? I'm using 7.0 by the way.
Thanks,
Ray
P.S. I also remember that it had something to do with linking the layers so that you just needed to place the first frame in the sequence and link all the other layers to it, but I'm totally lost now!

I don't believe that PS 7.0 supports animation, 'least I don't know how to use this function if it does. That is why I remember using Image Ready to do it. In Image Ready you can use any animated gif file to do what I want, I just can't remember how I did it. I do remember that I had to take my background image and duplicate it to get the same number of frames as the animated gif file, but I don't remember how I merged the two together. It had something to do with placing the first frame of the animated gif where I wanted it on my background and then using the link tool in the layer box to link them together, that way I didn't have to place each individual frame of the animation on to the background and avoid an alignment nightmare. I sure wish I would've taken notes!
Thank you for your suggestions.
Ray

Large Still Images into PE - One Workflow

Everyone wants the highest quality that they can obtain when doing their videos. It’s natural to want the best. Well, when dealing with still images, bigger is not necessarily better, for two reasons. First, overly large still images can really tax a system and second, one is limited to the frame size of the video, so these have to be resized somewhere - this resizing can be in the NLE (Non Linear Editor) program, or in an image processing program like PS (Photoshop), which does a better job anyway. Doing this in PS, or PSE, will result in better resized images, and they are easier for the NLE to work with. Quality is as high as your Project’s Preset will allow, and you are more efficient, with fewer crashes, slowdowns and hangs. It is a win-win situation.
Here is my normal workflow when dealing with still images. This workflow is for NTSC 4:3 720x480 with a PAR (Pixel Aspect Ratio) of 0.9. If your Project’s Presets are different, use those specs to resize to.
Since I shoot my still images in RAW, I Copy my files from the CF card to my system and catalog these images by location, subject and date (if necessary). I’ll do a quick conversion and Save_As Adobe DNG for backup. I then process these RAW images in PS with the ARC (Adobe Raw Converter), correcting them and then doing a Save_As PSD into a sub-folder. All of this is in my still photo library.
Normally, I will edit these PSD’s to find the images that I wish to use in a Video Project, and will Copy the selected images to another folder. You’ll see that I work with a lot of Copies, so my original files are always untouched and stored elsewhere. This guards against anything happening to them.
At this point, I’ll decide how I wish to use these selected images in my Video Project. Let’s just say that they are all horizontal images, and are still full-size from my camera. As stated, my Video Projects are DV-NTSC 4:3 720x480 PAR 0.9. [Remember, your Video Project may vary, so you will need to plug in the dimensions for YOUR Video Project in that case.] I also will have done my Cropping on each image individually, to get them to 4:3 Aspect Ratio. I do this my eye and by hand, rather than via an Action, because I want full aesthetic control.
In PS, I have a set of Actions for Video. An Action is like a Script, but less powerful and less involved in the writing. As I have already done all of my image enhancements and additional processing before I did my Copy to the selected folder, I only have to worry about my Action resizing these selected images for use in my Video Project. My Action here is to resize to 720x480 with a PAR of 0.9, and I normally use the Action that does this with a particular resizing algorithm, Bicubic-Smoother (though I also use Bicubic-Sharper on occasion).
For the next step, I go to my folder structure (remember, this folder contains copies of my selected still images in PSD format), and create a new sub-folder "[Project Name]_720x480." Back in PS, I choose File>Automate>Batch. Here I set my Source Folder, my Destination folder and the Action to perform. In my case, it’ll be the Destination Folder, that I just created, [Project Name]_720x480, and my Action will be my NTSC 4:3 720x480 Smooth. I check to have the Open command by-passed, because I do not need to see this take place on my monitor. When I hit OK, PS grabs all files in my Source Folder, runs the commands of my Action and does a Save_As for all files into my Destination Folder. I can process hundreds of large images down to a great 720x480 PAR 0.9 via Bicubic-Smoother interpolation, in moments. Now, I’m ready to go. Last, I Copy my Destination Folder to my Video Project’s folder hierarchy (usually on another HDD), and then Import these processed stills into my NLE.
What if I need to pan on one, or more of these images, while they are zoomed out completely? I don’t have enough pixels in my horizontal dimension to do this. I am just filling the frame with my still. Well, if I find that there are such images, I go back to my folder with the full sized images in my still images library, and select the ones that need to be larger. I run another Action on these, but it’s one that resizes to something larger than 720x480, say 1000x750. Now, I have another Destination Folder with the name [File Name]_1000x750. I’ll Copy this over to my Video Project, and Import these into the NLE. Here, I can go to Project Panel and remove the 720x480 versions if I so choose, but since a Premiere Project file (.PRPROJ or .PREL) is only an XML database, I may just leave them. It does not contain any media files, just links to where they are on the system and to what operations are performed on them.
By doing my resizing in PS, rather than in Premiere, I have accomplished two things:
1.) I have better quality resized images, using the algorithms in PS, plus have a choice of several interpolation methods to work with.
2.) I have lessened the processing load on my NLE and on my system, while doing the editing
I get higher quality and lower resource overhead - hence my reference to "win-win."
Now, back to my aesthetic control. I do not do any automatic zooming or panning. If one allows the NLE to do this, then they will want to probably process all of their images to 1000x750 (remember, this is for an NTSC 4:3 Project, so you will need to calculate what YOUR Project will require).
The two programs that I use are Photoshop and Premiere Pro, but Photoshop Elements can do the same things, though the exact commands might be different. Premiere Elements will handle the resized still images, just like Premiere Pro and the only difference will be the terminology used when one wishes to Import the still images.
I also keep all of my images in .PSD (the native format of PS), and do not convert to JPEG, or other. If one’s camera shoots only JPEG, I suggest writing the Action to do the Save_As to .PSD, as another JPEG compression will cost one quality. Yes, the JPEG’s will be smaller, but remember we are looking for the ultimate quality, so larger file sizes are just part of that equation.
One does not have to deal with all of the Copies, as I do. However, this allows me to go back to the originals, or to the processed full-sized .PSD’s at any step along the way. There is only one thing worse than not being able to go back to an intermediate version with full Layers and Adjustment Layers, plus any Alpha Channels, and that is finding out that you’ve lost your original RAW and DNG backups! That’s why I do a lot of Save_As and also work from Copies all along the way.
Hunt

Your workflow looks good. I do similar, but use PS, in lieu of LightRoom. I also do DNG's for my archives.
Provided that one chooses a JPEG compression algorithm setting that does not do too much compression, I doubt that anyone, but the most very critical, could tell the difference in Video. Most of my tests on PSD vs JPEG have been for print. There, one can more easily detect the differences. Video "hides" some of that.
To date, I have not had a Project where the Asset size differences between equally sized PSD's vs JPEG's caused any slowdown, or problem. There could be a resources savings with the smaller JPEG files, but there is a tiny bit of overhead dealing with the JPEG compression. I have never tested this, so can only guess that the smaller Asset size of the JPEG would trump that overhead - just a guess on my part.
For me, keeping the images in PSD does save a tiny bit of work in my Action (basically one less operation to perform), but I doubt that one could measure that time difference, even over the automation of hundreds of images. Besides, it's only one additional line in the Action. My feelings on JPEG vs PSD is firmly based in my print experience, and I am probably being too critical with images going to video. When I move up to HD and BD authoring, I need to apply a very critical eye, to see if I can tell the differences on an HD TV. So long as one does not apply too much JPEG compression, the differences should be very slight, at the worst, and maybe not even noticed, at best.
I do minimize the impact of many files on my Project by sizing to what I need. If I will not be doing any pans on zoomed-out images, I size to my Project. For pans on zoomed-out images, I calculate just what I will need for those pans, and might end up with several groups of sizes, to accommodate each. Still, the vast majority will be sized to exactly what I need for the Project - very few extra pixels.
In my case, and yours too, I have my RAW, my DNG, my working Layered PSD's, and then my sized output. I always keep all working PSD's, as I might change my mind, or my client might change theirs, and I do not want to have to go back and redo work, if I still have those working files. I also do as little destructive editing, as I can, using Dupe Layers, and Adjustment Layers, whenever possible. If I can, I never Flatten, or Merge Layers, so I can make any/all changes at any time, and only have to do the resizing via the same Actions. That is basically a "one-button" solution, once I have made the changes required.
Good luck,
Hunt

How to Work With Still Images in Premiere Elements 10

I am struggling with the still images in my Titles for my video project, and would really appreciate some help. I have done a lot of googling on this and searched this forum, but can't seem to find the answer I need, maybe not searching the right questions or just "not getting it". Not even PE Adobe tips or Adobe TV cover this, although it seems important to know. I am not clear how PE10 will handle the resolution of an imported still image or graphic art from Photoshop. Perhaps this topic will also help others as well.
I am working on a video project for my job, editing an old training video. Created new Title graphics in Photoshop, inserted the Title images and integrated with video clips, then exported the video segments as MPEG files. I burned the whole video to DVD.
When the final DVD plays on a computer or TV screen, the photo images in the titles are fuzzy even though they were clear 300 dpi images. (I know dpi doesn't matter in video). The title text is also a bit fuzzy and the title text that has animation applied to it is even more fuzzy. Yet the old MPEG video clips look fine - it's just my title graphics and text that look bad (embarrasing).
So I need to know how to improve the quality of the still images/graphics for a video??
Project settings:
- Hard Disk, Standard 48kHz
- Editing Mode: DV NTSC
- Frame: 720 x 480 (0.9091)
- Frame rate: 29.97fps
- with "Optimize Stills" box checked
Using these settings because I am working with MPEG files from an old training video CD.
File Export: MPEG, NTSC DVD Standard
I export the video clips as MPEGS because they will be burned to a CD or DVD for distribution to our staff offices.
Work Details:
In Photoshop, I created still image graphics for each Title sized at 720 x480 with high resolution photos and company logo (300 dpi), and save them as a bitmap to import into PE10. In the Timeline, I insert the still image in "Video 1" track, then in Video 2 track create a Title over it for text (some animated, some still). Sometimes I stack 2 or three titles with text in separate video tracks over one still title image. Yes, there is a red line across the top in the Timeline because I didn't render the still images.
Questions:
• What is the best resolution for images imported into PE10 from Photoshop?
• Should I be creating title graphics/images at 720 x 480 or a larger ratio like 1920 x 1080 so it will display better when seen on a computer or TV?
• Do I need to render each title image in the timeline so that it will eventually display better in the MPEG?
• Is it better to create a title and then insert the still image into the title so they are integrated, rather than layered on separate video tracks?
I would greatly appreciate any assistance.

When the final DVD plays on a computer or TV screen, the photo images in the titles are fuzzy even though they were clear 300 dpi images. (I know dpi doesn't matter in video). The title text is also a bit fuzzy and the title text that has animation applied to it is even more fuzzy. Yet the old MPEG video clips look fine - it's just my title graphics and text that look bad (embarrasing).
Remember that DVD-Video was designed for CRT TV sets, and was a major step up from VHS tape. However, when viewed on an HD computer monitor, or HD TV *, it is still ONLY 720 x 480, with is about 1/4 of the resolution as 1920 x 1080, which is about what we are used to seeing on those display devices. That is but only 25% of the quality. It can never look as good as HD material.
Good luck, and if I missed something, please point that out to me.
Hunt
* With the advent of BD players, and up-rezzing DVD players, things HAVE improved, when viewing a DVD-Video on an HD TV. The newer players have up-rezzing chips, that do a very good job of "improving" the viewed material's quality. However, even with those amazing chips, DVD-Video will NEVER be as good as a full-HD source. Also, computers do not have those up-rezzing chips, so when one views a DVD-Video on a high-rez computer monitor, it will still look pretty bad. There ARE a couple of new DVD software players, that improve the quality of DVD-Video played on a high-rez computer monitor, and a few look fairly promising. I speculate that we will see some more development in the DVD-Video area, especially as BD is not proving to be the big seller, that many promised. Even 3D is not helping BD realize its promise.

How to make a podcast with one still image with iMovie 09

I'm using trying to transfer my podcasts to Vimeo. I've been using iWeb to create a person web site with video and podcasts. I have embedded Vimeo with "html snippet widge." I want to do the same thing with audio, however Vimeo only accept "video" files.
In my attempt to work around Vimeo's video issues, I had the idea to use iMovie 09 to create a "video file" using a single still image with my audio podcast play in the background. The single image would be consistent for the entire length of the audio. It seems simple...one still image file and one audio file.
All of my audio files are less than 45 minutes in length. The problem is that when I insert an image in iMovie I can't get it to last for more than 10:00 minutes of my podcast. I've had to drag the same image over several times, extend each image's length to 10:00 minutes until I have enough images to last the full length of the audio file.
I'm sure there's a simple way to do this with one image, used one time, and have the audio added.
Anyone understand my situation and have a good idea?

The most efficient method would be for you to do this in iMovie 6. You can download a version if you don't already have it on your computer. http://supportdownload.apple.com/download.info.apple.com/AppleSupport_Area/Apple_Software_Updates/Mac_OSX/downloads/061-3532.20070807.nq3ER/iMovieHD6.dmg
Put all your clips into a new iMovie project, in the order you wish them to play. Use the chapters tab and add chapter markers for each clip (except the first one; iDVD will add that one for you). Close iMovie.
Open an new iDVD project. Use the Media tab, then Movies, to locate your new iMovie. Drag and drop it onto the main iDVD window, taking care not to drop it into a drop zone. You should then see the title of your movie and the two options: Play Movie (which will play all the clips sequentiallly) and Scene Selection (which will take you to submenu(s) where you can select which clip to view).

How do I make still Images the same size as the video when importing? CS5

Hi,
I'm having a problem importing and using still images as they are so large.
The video is 720 x 576 and the image I want to use is 4752 x 3168
How can I scale it down to fit with the video. Currently it just zooms in to a part of the picture making it pretty useless.
Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Lois

I made a tutorial on this exact thing.
Part One: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXeblQFIGlM
Part Two: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjHNHf7IhKQ

Can anyone help me figure why there is a popping sound when I move from an iphoto still image to a new video clip? The sound has been removed from the video clips and there is another soundtrack underneath it all. Help?

My current project is like many I have created in the past. I have removed the sound from my video clips and laid another soundtrack under the entire project. Now, when I add an iphoto still image to the project, when it goes back into video there is a popping sound. I've never had this happen in the past and have made many projects in the past just like this one. Any way to troubleshoot this issue? Thanks so much for your help.
Ben

What audio output are you using? What mac and version iMovie

How do I convert an flv file to still images?

This may sound stupid, but I have a downloaded flv file, and I want to use about
8 seconds to make still images so I can trace into Illustrator and then export it into Flash. (both are older versions).
Is this possible?
It is for an animinated logo.
Thanx.

Andrew J wrote:
Everybody's wrong wrong wrong. You don't need garageband. Select the song, go to info. You need to select a start and stop time for the song that can't be any longer than 40 seconds in length. Then in advanced mode you convert the song to acc. once done locate the file on the computer. it should end in .m4a . Change the a to an r so it reads .m4r Drag the file to the desktop, double click and it ends up in ringtones folder.
That's it! Works every time. Or for those who want easier:
http://www.ambrosiasw.com/utilities/iToner/
My drug of choice.

Using still images with Final Cut (and the apple suite in general)

I have had a re-occuring and long term problem that has caused me many lost hours of head scratching and work arounds, and as of yet I have not been able to come up with a good solution.
Its to do with integrating still images with the Final Cut suite.
If I receive a high quality image from a client to use in their video and I then try importing it into Final Cut and animating it, it always ends up looking like a pile of ahem. Often I will get "swimming" lines appear across fine detail on the image, and parts of it will flicker as it moves across the screen. For instance, if I have a picture of some blinds or other fine detail (especially horizontal and vertical lines), when I add a grow and throw movement to it the detail will become very noisy - buzzing and flickering like mad.
I have found I can counter this by resizing the image in photoshop to a resolution closer to SD video (700w or 500h) - but I always end up losing detail, and the flickering and noise is only reduced, not eliminated. Other things that have helped are blur effects applied at a very low level, like 0.5 blur, so its not noticeable visually, but Final Cut seems to treat it differently and quieten the noise and flicker down.
However, all of these workarounds are ultimately still giving a reduced quality product.
Also, this problem is not necessarily constrained to Final Cut, I am currently fighting DVD Studio Pro because it is murdering the text quality in a stills slideshow I am creating - and in this situation there is no animation being applied. No matter what file type (psd, jpeg, tiff, png...) or size I output the text and images from Photoshop in, the moment DVD studio pro gets hold of it, it turns to cripe.
For a while I was putting it down to the fact that I usually edit in SD (PAL) formats, and there just wasn't the resolution available to reproduce fine detail. However, I do often see other people achieving pin-sharp fine detail on still images and text in SD formats (the Apple templates are a good example)
So, my question to you, oh great and high boffins, if you are dealing with still images and text, how do you do it? How do you work around any noise problems you have, and how do you produce those pin-sharp images (both moving and still) I see in other professional productions?
Quad G5 Mac OS X (10.4.8)

still images with too high a resolution will always cause problems. this is due to the detail of the image being finer than the scanline of the tv can display ... obviously this will caise the image to flicker as these details alternately appear and disappear as and when the scanline can display them. as you have discovered, the answer is to apply a very small blur, the effect being that the detail is spread by the blur such that the scanline can dislay it correctly.
text issues are often rooted in the same problem ... unless the text is placed very carefully (whole even number on the y axis) then the quality may be impaired due to the resulting interlacing/scanline issues

Can you merge two still images into one in premiere elements?

I am working on a slide show for a memorial service and would like to have one still image showing and then have the next one come in without replacing the former- somehow merge the two. Is that possible?

Depending on what you mean by "merge," you can use PiP (Picture in Picture) to have the second image come in and occupy part of the screen with the original image. There are many ways to display PiP, from say a small image located in the screen to having it occupy one half of the screen.
Does that sound like what you are hoping to do?
Besides the rather simple PiP, one can also use Track Matte Keying to bring up the second image and to soften edges, drop it into an image of, say a TV set, or a window.
The possibilities are endless, or nearly so.
Let us know if PiP works for you, or if you need a more intricate merging of the images.
Good luck,
Hunt

Looking for a way to Export Still Image to iPhoto

Hi I'm looking for a way to export a still image from iMovie 08 to iPhoto 08? The simple drag, help, web search etc doesn't seem to come up with an answer but it's been a long day.
Thanks

Find the still within an event clip, right mouse, select add still frame to project. Repeat for all the stills you want.
In Finder under pictures, you should find files for all the stills you created. Import them into Iphoto and there you have it.
There is probably an easier way but this is not too bad.

Still images shaky

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