Suddenly No "Still" image in Viewer

All of a sudden, for no apparent reason, my Viewer window will not display still video when the viewer is idle. Hit play, video plays fine. Stop the video and the viewer goes white.
Canvas works as it should. Moving same clip from viewer to canvas works OK too. Been trying to sort this for a couple of days now. Any suggestions?
G5 Quad 2.5 PPC, 12.5gB ram
OSX 10.4.7.
Final Cut Studio with FCP 5.0.4
Quicktime 7 Pro version 7.1.2
G5 QuadPPC2.5, Ram:12.5g, Magma PCIe-PCI expansion Mac OS X (10.4.7) G4 MDD DP 1.25, Ram:2g

you have your viewer set to display the alpha channel. the selection is in the little radio boxes at the top of the viewer/canvas windows. consult the manual for more info.
zeb

Similar Messages

Shaky still images

I have imported still images, jpeg files and they are shaky. I am having problems with them being shaky when I make some keyframe movements, mostly zooming in. I saw on the discussion it was suggested to reduce the size of the jpeg file which I did to 2048 x 1536. That seemed to work until I went further into my project adding more clips and still images to it. Suddenly, those still images added much earlier and working fine are now shaky. I tried the flicker filter setting it to max, and the image stablizer filter. Did not work. I saw someone said to check that the field dominance is set to none which they are. Also someone suggested adding gaussian blur filter. That made it not shaky but the quality of the photo is horrible, blurred as the effect suggests. Anyone have any suggestions?
Mac OS X (10.4.9)

Gaussian blur is the way to go, but you are in control of what it does. You can get great results with a little time spent. Remove interlace and flicker filter to do this.
Before you go to blur, check your levels. If your whites are peaking out of "legal" range you have a different problem and the blur won't completely take care of the jitters. Now for the blur:
- Use it vertically only. There's no need to add blur to the horizontal because that's not where the problem is. What you're doing is trying to mix just enough of adjacent video lines together so their contrast doesn't cause flickering.
- Use it extremely lightly. If your pictures were at sequence resolution you would probably want it set between .1 and .3 - in your case it's more but you don't say what your sequence rez is.
- Set it so the blur is gone, then back off untill you see a little bit of jitter. A small amount is often unnoticeable, and if you're right at the edge you're maintaining maximum resolution in the image.

Last night suddenly when I right-click-view-images in firefox, they appear centered and against a black background. It's usually meant to be a white background and the image appearing at top left. How to revert it?

I'm having trouble with something in firefox, it's quite minor but still bugs me. Last night suddenly when I right-click-view-images in firefox, they appear centered and against a black background. It's usually meant to be a white background and the image appearing at top left. I can't remember what I did to change this if it's my fault; if someone knows how to revert it I'd be thankful.

cor-el : thanks for the pointers! I wish the solution isn't an add-on every time ... if such long-standing behaviour is going to change, the least that could be done is put in an about:config option to get back the old behaviour.

Dragging a large still image from the browser into the viewer crashes FCP

Okay, I've not seen this problem until just a couple days ago but was wondering if it was just me or if everyone has this problem? I've found a work-around, but let me explain the problem first.
I'm creating a growing up photo montage. I scanned all of the pictures myself at 300 dpi (as I've always done in the past) and saved them as TIF files. Some pictures as relatively small, i.e. 3.5 mb is size and do just fine, but it appears anytime I drop a picture into the viewer in preparation for the the timeline, it will crash FCP if the image file is any larger than about 5 or 5.5 MB. Now I know there is a limit on the resolution of a still and it shouldn't be any larger than 4000 pixels in either direction, but that is not my problem, the problem appears to occur with large files. I've used large still files before in past projects without any problem, so this is why I'm stumped. I've went as far as trashing my preferences, but that didn't change anything. I've even tested a still image from a past project that was something around 9 MB (or was it 19 mb?) in any case, it also crashed FCP but... I've used that picture before in past projects without any problem. I even created a new test project just in case my project file itself had a problem.
My work-around is to simply drop the still image from the browser directly into the timeline, thus bypassing the viewer. This works every time without a hitch. I can even double-click on the still now setting in the timeline to load it into the viewer so I can add effects or keyframes or whatever without any problems (thank goodness). So, has anyone else experienced this problem or is it just me?

Is this image saved in a colorspace mode that is anything other than RGB?
CMYK & Grayscale images will cause problems.
Some light reading regarding your choice of 300 dpi: http://www.scantips.com/no72dpi.html
Unless you plan on panning and zooming your images, the best procedure is to use one of the video preset templates in Photoshop and paste your content into it. Scale and position using the Transform controls. For best results save as a TIFF without compression. Don't forget, always in RGB colorspace.

Still Images suddenly have Media Offline icon

Asking this on behalf of a friend who just encountered it and is with a client at the moment...
In his timeline, everything was working fine, cutting in some footage, throw in a still image section, add more footage, all good. He then went back to review his timeline and a section of his timeline had the red "Media Offline" icon on all the footage involved. This section consists of about 15 still images (JPG files) around 10 seconds in length. Oddly enough, when he brought the playhead over this section, it still played fine, as in the proper still image was showing on screen. Even if he made modifications, he was able to render and again, the still images would play the way he intended. We tried making FCP take the footage offline, and then doing a reconnect: still had the offline icon. We restarted, still had the offline icon. All the items in his browser have the "picture" icon rather than the "offline" icon (box with red strike). We dragged the physical JPG file from Finder into the Browser window, and then placed it on the timeline: still had Offline icon.
Normally not a 'huge' issue, only a cosmetic one. Except that it's happening right in front of a big client who's always worked with Avids before. Ideally we'd like her Final Cut experience to be a wonderful one and I can tell that this cosmetic error isn't convicing her to switch. Anybody have any idea what's going on?
To sum it up: The pictures are all behaving normally, can be modified, animated, etc... The ONLY issue is that in the timeline, they have the "media offline" icon rather than a picture of it's first frame.

Don't worry its just the thumbnail that's offline. Its not even really necessary to fix but if he really needs to he can just shut down FCP. Go to wherever he has his scratch disc set up. (You know where you tell FCP to save renders, auto saves, and so forth). Just drop the folder named Thumbnail Cache into the trash. The next time you open your project it will automatically create a new folder and files and you should be good to go.

Why is a still image fuzzy when being played but clear when I pause it?

I'm trying to make a video out of a collection of still images. It is a tribute video, essentially, and I am trying to liven it up by panning and zooming documentary-style. I've imported all the images I want to use into my media folder, and added them to my timeline. When I hit 'play,' the images suddenly become blurry, but when i then 'pause' it, they return to being clear. Any idea why this might be happening and what I can do to fix this?
Thanks very much,
Brian

More information needed for someone to help... please click below and provide the requested information
-Premiere Elements FAQ http://forums.adobe.com/thread/1042180
>make a video out of a collection of still images
What is your project setting, and what size are your pictures?
Pictures that are "overly" large may cause video editing problems
Photo Scaling for Video http://forums.adobe.com/thread/450798
-HiRes Pictures to DVD http://forums.adobe.com/thread/1187937?tstart=0
The Tutorial Links Page http://forums.adobe.com/thread/1275830 may also help
Plus...
Premiere Elements FAQ List (2 pages of FAQ as of September 2013) http://forums.adobe.com/community/premiere_elements/premiere_elements_faq?view=all
Premiere Elements TIPS List (6 pages of Tips as of September 2013) http://forums.adobe.com/community/premiere_elements/premiere_elements_tips?view=all

Render flashing over Still images in HDV

I was given this project to rescue, the biggest problem is it is full of still images with moves/keyframes and full of subtitles. The images are all JPEGS, of varying sizes and resolutions, some of them are still in grayscale mode. These problems mainly show up on the interlaced HDTV monitor, on the RGB monitor the images suddenly dip 50% in brightness, and flicker slightly.
The flicker filter on MAX and a gaussian blur will not fix this. the only thing that seems to work is converting all these images to TIFFs and re-doing all the moves which in Final Cut is a nightmare. Here is a link, the full visual dissonance problems are washed out by this camera.
http://www.vimeo.com/5590809
What would be a life saver is finding a way not having to convert all these JPEGs to TIFFs.
Moving keyframes, changing opacity, etc does nothing to improve the render flickering.

The flickering is an artifact of the interlaced nature of video. It is a result of very thin (often horizontal) elements that exist on one scanline as is common in text or titling. This can also be the case in images with great deal of detail with high contrast as well as when when you are engaged in pan/zoom moves on stills.
As the alternate fields play, the flashing element is essentially being turned on/off. The basic strategy is to get the element to exist over two scanlines so it is refreshed every time the field plays or to reduce the amount of contrast so the difference between ON and OFF is not noticeable.
Before you start any of these steps listed below, make sure you are viewing your material on an appropriate monitor. If you are working in an NTSC/PAL interlaced format (eg DV) you need an external TV monitor - not a computer screen. Without the appropriate device, you are playing blind.
Things to try (In increasing order of image degradation)
• (in FCP) field order>none
• (in FCP or Photoshop) reduce whites by 10% - reduces overly bright areas
• (in FCP) flicker filter - minimum
• (in Photoshop) motion blur>vertical> .2 - .5 pixels - blurs vertically only
• (In FCP or Photoshop) Gaussian blur> .2 - .5 pixels -blurs both horizontally as well as vertically
• (in FCP or Photoshop) deinterlace - throws away half the image and is generally not appropriate on scanned images
Remember: Unless you are viewing your work in the appropriate external NTSC/PAL monitor, you are playing blind. The computer monitor only shows you a proxy image.
One final thought, if you have slowed your material significantly, and have not used some sort of frame blending/optical flow processing, you may be simply duplicating frames to create the additional material to pad the playback. The flashing you see is the result of this.
good luck.
x

Problem with layering two still images

Hi,
I am trying to create a simple transition between two still images (the first one is in V2 and the second is in V1, with overlapping). I noticed that when I add a video transition (like cross dissolve) the second image becomes blurred and out of focus. This creates a noticeable jump: the emerging second image is first seen blurred and then suddenly becomes focused again. When I took out the transition, I noticed that the first images is blurred during the time of the overlap, and then the second image is clear and does not loose quality.
I tried to apply a De-interlace filter but it just made the images look bad.
The two images are jpg format, 1087x751 and 770x1124
It seems like a simple procedure but I don't know what to do... Why do the images loose their quality? Even without using the transition, why does the image in V2 is blurred when overlapped with an image in V1. The second layer should not be affected from a lower one, no?
MANY THANKS

Welcome to the forum!
Did you render the two images (plus transition) fully before viewing? Check in the Sequence->Render menus to ensure all render types have a check mark beside them.
-DH

How to Work With Still Images in Premiere Elements 10

I am struggling with the still images in my Titles for my video project, and would really appreciate some help. I have done a lot of googling on this and searched this forum, but can't seem to find the answer I need, maybe not searching the right questions or just "not getting it". Not even PE Adobe tips or Adobe TV cover this, although it seems important to know. I am not clear how PE10 will handle the resolution of an imported still image or graphic art from Photoshop. Perhaps this topic will also help others as well.
I am working on a video project for my job, editing an old training video. Created new Title graphics in Photoshop, inserted the Title images and integrated with video clips, then exported the video segments as MPEG files. I burned the whole video to DVD.
When the final DVD plays on a computer or TV screen, the photo images in the titles are fuzzy even though they were clear 300 dpi images. (I know dpi doesn't matter in video). The title text is also a bit fuzzy and the title text that has animation applied to it is even more fuzzy. Yet the old MPEG video clips look fine - it's just my title graphics and text that look bad (embarrasing).
So I need to know how to improve the quality of the still images/graphics for a video??
Project settings:
- Hard Disk, Standard 48kHz
- Editing Mode: DV NTSC
- Frame: 720 x 480 (0.9091)
- Frame rate: 29.97fps
- with "Optimize Stills" box checked
Using these settings because I am working with MPEG files from an old training video CD.
File Export: MPEG, NTSC DVD Standard
I export the video clips as MPEGS because they will be burned to a CD or DVD for distribution to our staff offices.
Work Details:
In Photoshop, I created still image graphics for each Title sized at 720 x480 with high resolution photos and company logo (300 dpi), and save them as a bitmap to import into PE10. In the Timeline, I insert the still image in "Video 1" track, then in Video 2 track create a Title over it for text (some animated, some still). Sometimes I stack 2 or three titles with text in separate video tracks over one still title image. Yes, there is a red line across the top in the Timeline because I didn't render the still images.
Questions:
• What is the best resolution for images imported into PE10 from Photoshop?
• Should I be creating title graphics/images at 720 x 480 or a larger ratio like 1920 x 1080 so it will display better when seen on a computer or TV?
• Do I need to render each title image in the timeline so that it will eventually display better in the MPEG?
• Is it better to create a title and then insert the still image into the title so they are integrated, rather than layered on separate video tracks?
I would greatly appreciate any assistance.

When the final DVD plays on a computer or TV screen, the photo images in the titles are fuzzy even though they were clear 300 dpi images. (I know dpi doesn't matter in video). The title text is also a bit fuzzy and the title text that has animation applied to it is even more fuzzy. Yet the old MPEG video clips look fine - it's just my title graphics and text that look bad (embarrasing).
Remember that DVD-Video was designed for CRT TV sets, and was a major step up from VHS tape. However, when viewed on an HD computer monitor, or HD TV *, it is still ONLY 720 x 480, with is about 1/4 of the resolution as 1920 x 1080, which is about what we are used to seeing on those display devices. That is but only 25% of the quality. It can never look as good as HD material.
Good luck, and if I missed something, please point that out to me.
Hunt
* With the advent of BD players, and up-rezzing DVD players, things HAVE improved, when viewing a DVD-Video on an HD TV. The newer players have up-rezzing chips, that do a very good job of "improving" the viewed material's quality. However, even with those amazing chips, DVD-Video will NEVER be as good as a full-HD source. Also, computers do not have those up-rezzing chips, so when one views a DVD-Video on a high-rez computer monitor, it will still look pretty bad. There ARE a couple of new DVD software players, that improve the quality of DVD-Video played on a high-rez computer monitor, and a few look fairly promising. I speculate that we will see some more development in the DVD-Video area, especially as BD is not proving to be the big seller, that many promised. Even 3D is not helping BD realize its promise.

How to make a podcast with one still image with iMovie 09

I'm using trying to transfer my podcasts to Vimeo. I've been using iWeb to create a person web site with video and podcasts. I have embedded Vimeo with "html snippet widge." I want to do the same thing with audio, however Vimeo only accept "video" files.
In my attempt to work around Vimeo's video issues, I had the idea to use iMovie 09 to create a "video file" using a single still image with my audio podcast play in the background. The single image would be consistent for the entire length of the audio. It seems simple...one still image file and one audio file.
All of my audio files are less than 45 minutes in length. The problem is that when I insert an image in iMovie I can't get it to last for more than 10:00 minutes of my podcast. I've had to drag the same image over several times, extend each image's length to 10:00 minutes until I have enough images to last the full length of the audio file.
I'm sure there's a simple way to do this with one image, used one time, and have the audio added.
Anyone understand my situation and have a good idea?

The most efficient method would be for you to do this in iMovie 6. You can download a version if you don't already have it on your computer. http://supportdownload.apple.com/download.info.apple.com/AppleSupport_Area/Apple_Software_Updates/Mac_OSX/downloads/061-3532.20070807.nq3ER/iMovieHD6.dmg
Put all your clips into a new iMovie project, in the order you wish them to play. Use the chapters tab and add chapter markers for each clip (except the first one; iDVD will add that one for you). Close iMovie.
Open an new iDVD project. Use the Media tab, then Movies, to locate your new iMovie. Drag and drop it onto the main iDVD window, taking care not to drop it into a drop zone. You should then see the title of your movie and the two options: Play Movie (which will play all the clips sequentiallly) and Scene Selection (which will take you to submenu(s) where you can select which clip to view).

Shaky still images in burned iMovie/iDVD project

Hello all, I've stopped by the discussion forums in the past for quick fixes to problems when they come up, this is my first post though that doesn't seem to address anything I've found on here...
I am working on a project that takes scanned pictures from regular print photos into iMovie 6 and then burned into iDVD 6. I have done this similar style of work several times and never run into this problem. The project looks fine in both iMovie and iDVD preview, and burns fine to disc. As soon as it is popped into a DVD player, some of the still images flash and shake around, it appears to happen on the same images every time.
The original project used about 100 photos, around 12 minutes of movie time. It uses only still pictures and there are cross dissolve transitions between each one. I have tried dragging and dropping the iMovie project into iDVD instead of using 'share'. I also saved as a disk image and burned slowly (4x) not only on my SuperDrive but on an external LaCie drive. I've even started a brand new project file, imported the pictures again from iPhoto and everything... still no luck. I've done about 5 trials now with these different settings, no luck. I use Verbatim DVD-r disks as well...
I've even tried scanning a few images and replacing them, thinking the file might be corrupted, but this isn't fixing the problem. Is there some setting that I'm missing or any other suggestions you have?
I'm trying to save a trip down to see a genius, but if I can't get any help I'll have no choice but to make the 3 hour drive to the nearest apple store. Hopefully someone has some suggestions! Thanks!

Hi
A. I don't use the *Share/Export to iDVD* function in iMovie. iMovie rendering can harm
the photos in a movie.
I do: close iMovie, Open iDVD and import the movie project here (icon with a Star on it)
or just drop the icon into iDVD.
B. Some photos with thin lines most often starts to flicker when viewed on a TV.
I do: In a photo editing program eg PhotoShop or Elements: Apply *Gausian blurr*.
Just slightly. Resulting in non-flickering photos.
C. One can rather easily find out if this will occure by:
• Connect Your miniDV (tape) Camera via FireWire.
• Analog out of Camera to a TV-set
• Set in iMovie. Playback via Camera
Now You see on the TV what the final Quality will be like.
• Flicker (add Gausian Blurr to those photos)
• Color, brightness & contrast
• Over all playback rythm and sound
Yours Bengt W

Change duration of multiple still images in one operation

Hello Folks.
I am trying to change the duration of each image in a sequence of still images.
Program: Adobe Premiere Elements 7
Mode: Standard Definition 4/3 ratio
File types in use: MOD, AVI, PNG
Problem: The product manual states: "To apply the new default length to all still images in your project, delete them from Project view and reimport them into your project."
Question: Is there a way to select a group of still images and then apply a new duration value to all of them in one operation? An Adobe salesperson told me that this is possble before I purchased the program, but I cannot figure out how this is done. I switched to Adobe from another product in order to get this feature. Now that I need it, I cannot figure a way to get it to work. Time Stretch is not available when I select multiple images.
Thank you,
Brian

Brian,
Unfortunately not. PrPro CS4.2 has just added a way to change the Duration of previously Imported stills, but so far PrE does not allow for this, unless it is new to PrE 8, but I have not read of this.
As noted, the method is to set the Edit>Preferences>General>Default Stills, and choose the Duration in Frames. Then Import the stills. If they are in the Project, that setting has already been applied, so one must delete them from the Project Panel and re-Import them with the new Duration.
Now, one can obviously change the Duration on a one-by-one basis in the Timeline, but that can be tedious, if there are many stills. If I were doing this, I would make sure to have the Info Panel open and nearby, Window>Info.
Good luck,
Hunt
PS - if PrE 8 HAS added the post-Import Duration change, I hope someone steps up with that info.

Video out to Sony A1U: Sound, Still Image

I'm sure someone has had this issue and I know its old, but I gotta get this TV show out for tomorrow and I"ve had a plethora of problems tonight. I've played DVNTSC material out to my Sony A1U before with no problems. I now shoot on Canon 60D and I edit in Pro Res LT, then export that out as a 16:9 DVNTSC file so I can record to my A1U. I created a new project with easy setup that is all DVNTSC 3:2 Anamorphic 16:9 and then imported the DVNTSC version of my show for playout. The A1U is getting sound but only a still image or frame of the video. Even with View/External Video/All Frames, I get the same thing. I changed the camera settings to match as well. Same thing. Anyone have any ideas? I would love to not stay up all night just to play out a video to tape. I'm now trying iMovie as a playout strategy. HELP

Hmm... are you playing the DV-NTSC movie from the Viewer window? Or, do you have it a Sequence that's at DV-NTSC settings?
What you've described usually happens when the video is not compressed with the DV/DVCPro-NTSC codec.
But, I'm just taking guess.
-Warren

This is about the still image size changing from what I see on the computer monitor and what the burned DVD shows on the TV

I have Prem.El 12 and have used PE4 for years. I have a new PC that runs Win7Pro. The still images on the computer monitor are within the "safe margins". The still images after the movie has been burned to a disk are MUCH smaller on the TV screen. Is this an issue of 16:9 vs 4:3 ratios? My TV is 4:3. Can I tell PE12 to make the movie a 4:3?

retchemteach
Although I have seen your post of today in my Inbox Email Notifications, that post has not yet appears in this thread. It will probably will sooner or later. But, to keep things moving along....this is a copy of what I am seeing as your message of today in my Indox Email Notifications
Thank you for your patience in the time it is taking me to get back to you.
I am still trying to buy some DVD-RW discs and will hopefully do that in a
bit. Meanwhile, I have more info for you and some simple (I hope)
questions. If you want to insert your answers, that would be fine.
My camera (for stills and video) is set to the 4:3 ratio. It is capable of
being set to a 16:9 ratio if I wanted to do that. I looked in its TOOLS
menu and saw this info.
My TV is definitely a 4:3 TV. (I measured it with my tape measure and
divided W/L to get 1.33) The TV can show a 16:9 movie and just adds the
black bars on the top and bottom. Question: What will my old 4:3 movies
look like on a 16:9 TV whenever we buy one of those?
It seems to me that I want to set PE12 to the NTSC DV Standard you
mentioned.
I do NOT know how to “size your photos so that each has a 4:3 aspect”,
unless you mean doing that in Photoshop Elements, which I know how to do
(*see below)
I had NOT considered that I would need to watch the preset for the
‘Publish+Share’ step; so that’s good to know (I copied and pasted your info
for later use).
BTW, years ago when I had difficulties with my XP computer working on PE4
(had only 2 GB RAM), an Adobe tech told me to resize my photos * to have a
720 pixel width (the height would be automatically adjusted) to lower the
file size to something my computer could handle without crashing. (That
was back in the good ol’ days when Adobe support would actually talk with
their customers and try to help them in the first month)
My new computer has 16GB RAM. Do you think I still need to reduce file
size? One does lose some sharpness in the resizing process…..however,
these videos I’m making are travelogues and are for a fun way to view pics
and videos of a trip…nothing Earth shattering….and just a hobby to keep me
off the streets.
I truly appreciate the time you take to help me (and others). I was even
tempted to try to install my old PE4 on my new computer just to be able to
enjoy my hobby again.
My reply to the above....
1. If you camera is giving you 4:3 photos and your Premiere Elements 12/12.1 is running on Windows 7, 8, or 8.1 64 bit, then leave
the photos as is unless you have a lot of photos and each has pixel dimensions sizes way over 1920 x 1080 pixels that are giving your computer resource issues. If you have to down size them because of computer resources, then copy the photos to a computer desktop folder and also create an empty folder on the computer desktop.
a. Photoshop Elements Editor, File Menu/Process Multiple Files.
Process Files form Folder
Source - browse to and select the computer desktop folder with photos to be resized
Destination - browse to and select the empty computer desktop folder
Image Size
             Check Mark Next To Resize Images
            (no check mark next to Constrain Proportions)
            Type in Width = 1000 (set units for pixels)
            Type in Height = 750 (set unites for pixels)
File Size
           Check Mark Next to Convert Files To
           Set for JPEG High Quality
The above should work fine for a NTSC DV Standard project with a burn to DVD disc with preset NTSC_Dolby DVD (4:3 video).
2. With regard to the TV Set and 16:9 video....when you have the DVD-player attached to the TV, do you have the opportunity to bring up a display of menus with
controls for Picture and Aspect Ratio? From what you have written so far, it looks like the answer is no. I am not sure how your TV DVD
player will handle 16:9.
Best do a mini test run
1. Project preset set manually to NTSC DV Widescreen (please refer to post 1 link)
A few photos sized for 1600 x 1200
In the Premiere Elements project, use the Safety Margins inner rectangle for text placement
Publish+Share/Disc/DVD disc with preset = NTSC_Widescreen_Dolby DVD.
See what that looks like on your TV DVD player.
If you discovered that your current TV DVD player can be set for a 16:9 display, then I have a preferred workflow for
NTSC DV Widescreen which typically gives best possible results. Hints of things to come.
Please review and consider. Thanks for the follow ups.
ATR

Still image with motion has flicker pulsating problem

I use FCP 5.0.4
I have read the many threads about this subject and am still not able to succeed in getting rid of the flicker/pulsating in a still image with motion.
I would say about 25% of the stills with motion have the jitters; all the rest look great.
The first thing I tried was
Effects:Video Filters:Video:Field Shift:none
as well as
Effects:Video Filters:Video:Flicker Filter min, med, and max.
Maybe 5% were corrected with this, but the other 20% still had the jitters even after using a combination of the above or by themselves.
I just burned a test DVD using a variety of the persistently jittery stills from my current project and although the jitters change a bit, they were still there so all of these failed:
1. Effects:Video Filters:Video:De-interlace Upper (odd)
2. Effects:Video Filters:Video:De-interlace Flicker Filter minimal
3. Effects:Video Filters:Video:De-interlace Flicker Filter max
4. Effects:Video Filters:Color Correction:Broadcast Safe conservative 115
5. Effects:Video Filters:Video:Flicker Filter max
6. All the tricks together which means
Effects:Video Filters:Video:De-interlace set at Upper (odd)
Effects:Video Filters:Video:Flicker Filter max
Effects:Video Filters:Video:Shift Fields: none
Effects:Video Filters:Color Correction:Broadcast Safe conservative 115
I know this issue has been kicked around a lot and i know some folks are not happy that it has to be kicked around at all. But I am doing something wrong because my DVDs look very un-PRO. Would anyone like to talk me through this nightmare preferably with as many details as possible since I am obviously missing something critical.
Thanks in advance.

There is no 'secret formula'. It just takes thinking through the issues.
1. Set the image size for each image that makes sense within the context of your project. Going significantly larger than the displayed area of that image (including movement) is just asking FCP to do additional work to resize the image. FCP is less sophisticated at resizing images than Photoshop. Use Photoshop and your planning of the movie to get the images to the appropriate size.
2. Wasted effort and totally irrelevant- you could set it to 7200 dpi if it makes you feel better.
3. Good idea - be sure to knock down areas of pure or very bright white. These are the elements that will give you the most trouble.
4. Don't do this unless you want to throw away HALF the picture information. Deinterlace deletes half the picture and then photoshop recreates it through interpolation of the remaining half of the picture. Why do this?
5. Make your determination based on what works. If you have properly exposed and sized the material, the need to blur is greatly reduced. ONLY do it on the images that need it. Why degrade every image if you do not need to do so?
6. See number 5
7. Lay out your time line early, view the work on an external broadcast monitor and only mess about with the images that require it.
In the psycho business they have term for much of the referenced post - it's called superstitious behavior. Basically it comes down to "It worked before so we recommend it to everyone without regard to their situation" ... here's another example:
Many years ago in my architecture practice, we had one of the early 512k macs (upgraded from the 128k!) I needed to show one of the interns how to create a project budget spread sheet in Excel. Inadvertently I clicked on Word, said "oops", closed it and opened Excel and we went to work.
A week later I was walking by the computer and overheard the same intern explaining how to work with Excel to another architect. "First you open Word, close it, THEN you open Excel", she explained. When asked by her 'trainee', why do you have to open Word first, wouldn't it just be easier to simply open Excel? Her answer was just perfect, "Well, it works every time, what's wrong with that?" so it goes ...
good luck with your project.
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