T60 clock running in a funny way

My computers clock is not keeping track of time. It is moving but not necessarily forward or in the right paste. Automatic update is not working at all and manual time adjustment is constantly required. I all ready tried to replace BIOS battery. Any ideas?

Hi,
If you run Linux OS on dual boot on your T60,even on a separate drive ,it happens each time you switch OS ,as Linux and Windows dont use the same way to calculate time and send differrent informations to Bios...
Best regards
Eric

Similar Messages

Clock runs slow - Lumia 800

I have a bizarre problem with my Lumia 800 - the clock runs slow! I have had to set the clock multiple times since I got it (3 months ago), and within about a week of setting it each time the clock is several minutes behind time.
I've noticed that unlike on a lot of other phones, there is no 'sync time automatically'.
For the record my phone was purchased through Virgin (Optus network), and I haven't made any modifications to it whatsoever. I have updated it with the latest firmware, however the problem has persisted since I first got the phone.

@DarkX
You don't say whether your Lumia 800 is network branded or not and if provider does not support "network time" this feature may be absent.
There are also problems in the way the phone gets the time which is probably using NITZ (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NITZ) so device may easily be 3 - 4 minutes off satellite time.
Happy to have helped forum with a Support Ratio = 42.5

Is it better for your battery if you let it run down all the way and then charge it? Or to charge it whenever you have the opportunity? Which is better for the life of the battery?

I was wondering it the life of the battery would last longer if you let the battery run down all the way and then charge it? Or to charge it whenever you have the opportunity even if it doesn't have a low battery? Which is better for the life of the battery and prolong the life of the battery?

I've had a iPhone 4s since March 2012, and it's battery is pretty useless now. I was using the app Battery Doctor (Battery Saver, Battery Life) by Beijing Kingsoft Internet Security software, which encourages the user to charge more often, whenever battery life drops below 100% full and greater than 20% full, and gives ratings according to the number of full, partial & overcharges done, but I'm concerned that charging like that actually results in worse battery life??
I now have an new iPhone 5 and don't want the battery to only last as short as the last one did
Any advice/comments please

LUMIA 800 - Clock running slow!

Hi there,
I have a bizarre problem with my Lumia 800 running on Optus - the clock runs slow! I have had to set the clock multiple times since I got it, and within about a week of setting it each time the clock is several minutes behind time. **bleep** about a fortnight of setting it the time reads over 10 minutes behind where it should be. I've noticed that unlike on a lot of other phones, there is no 'sync time automatically' or similar feature on the Lumia 800.
**bleep** a quick Google search, the only other mention I found similar to this problem was on another Nokia thread, of people on 3 UK complaining that their clock was actually running too fast:
/t5/Nokia-with-Windows-Phone/On-board-clock-waaay-fast-Lumia-800/td-p/1334499
Unfortunately there didn't seem to be a solution to their problem
For the record my phone was purchased through Optus, and I haven't made any modifications to it whatsoever. I have updated it with the latest firmware, however the problem has persisted since I first got the phone.
Can anyone please help me?

Hi all, sorry for the delay getting back to you - for the record, I'll second the above replies and say that there's definitely no option to set time automatically on my Lumia 800..
Strangely enough, my issue resolved itself after a few months and I have no idea what fixed it!
On perhaps an unrelated note, for a period of about a month or two, my phone would routinely notify me about a new software update that was available. I connected my phone to the computer and updated the software, only for it to tell me a few days later that another update was available. After a couple of weeks of this, I looked into the update version and found it was the same update every time. Once again, this makes no sense to me whatsoever.
I have to say that I was really excited when I bought the Lumia 800, thinking that Microsoft (and Nokia) would bend over backwards to support the few customers that made the switch from iPhones etc. to such a fledgling platform, but I've since found that after-sales support has been pretty poor (evidenced in part by the lack of official response to this thread). I'm also really disappointed that Microsoft have essentially ditched their most loyal customers by upgrading to Windows Phone 8 without support for 7.5 users. Instead we've been waiting in the dark for the 7.8 update that still hasn't come out yet..
Apologies for the rant, thanks to the above users for trying to help me out - hope your phone issues resolve themselves also!

Please help: OEL clock running too fast

Hi,
I have tried everything I could find on the internet,
I have downloaded the latest OEL 64bit, installed it on a server (Asus m/b + AMD Phenom™ X4 Quad-Core cpu).
The clock runs 3 times faster than it should, how do I fix this?
Tried all the "noapic" etc options on older RHEL discussions in the grub.conf, but nothing works.
PLEASE someone help!
We are trying to do a OEL + 11g setup.

As a sidenote, please reconsider the previously proposed NTP solution.
Even with systems without clock problems, there will always be a difference in clock speed between computer systems and also with the other systems surrounding them.
Almost any computer system is using remote services, or provides services, or even has a setup where multiple systems are used to provide a single task (for example: the task of having a standby database using dataguard). If diagnosis of events on multiple systems, or diagnose of the sequence of events or tasks is needed, the clocks needs to be in sync. Otherwise diagnosis will be hard or impossible, or simply done wrong.
NTP is the solution for that by carefully examine the local clock speed, and compare it to the networked time sources, and adjusting the clock accordingly.
This is the reason most datacentres have timeservers internally with which computer systems can sync, so the clock is in sync on all systems. These timeservers are internal, thus need no internet access for the time clients. It is advised to use a 3rd party time source for the timeservers (like using timesources on the internet, or have a special card which sync with some atomic clock) But please mind you can do without.

STRANGE!!! Windows Xp clock running fast....

Hi guys. Youve helped me in the past so I hope you can help me again!
My MSI system has been running solid as a rock for about 1and1/2years now. Very happy with it. untill now..
It all started after I installed a bluetooth dongle (or so i though). I suddently realised that my xp clock was running fast about 10seconds every minute. I though this is weird so did the obvious things... restarted comp checked bios which was running fine. It is only when I get into windows that it starts to run fast. I uninstalled the bluetooth software thinking it was the culprit but obvoisuly wasnt. I then decided it was about time that i reformatted again anyway so reformatted and sure enough it fixed the problem, proving to me that it is a software problem not a hardware. Then, after about 4 months of my new reformatted system being up and running it suddenly has started doing it again. I havent even installed the bluetooth software or anything that is obviouslty the problem. I dont know if this has anything to do with it but my firewire card has also stopped working for somereason. I replaced it with a new one and that doesnt work either!
Any ideas anyone, ive searched the whole forum and internet and it doesnt seem like a common problem!
Many thanks
Jon.

Hello hurndall:
I see you are running XP/SP2 with all patches. Besides that, are you running any third party software that monitors communication? Looking at this from the paranoid perspective, have you run a spyware/malware sweep of your system?
The Windows Time service that you stopped is used to synchronize time across a network and does not directly control your RTC. Unless systems on your network are using it there will be no effect, so you can probably leave it stopped.
Regarding your fast clock problem, I have had this type of problem on PC platforms that were using the RTC interrupt to start background tasks such as data logging or other hardware. The hardware RTC clock uses IRQ 8; old MS-DOS software would modify the code associated with this interrupt to give pseudo-real time operation to specific processes. As I recall there is/was a timer that pinged this IRQ at 13.8 ms intervals and so kept the clock going. Although the usual symptom in these cases was a clock running SLOW, not fast, it is possible to have a clock run fast due to a bug in the added software.
You can do a rudimentary check on your system by starting Control Panel - System - Hardware - Device Manager - View - Resources By Connection - IRQ
Look at IRQ 8 - it should only be associated with the RTC function.
This is probably not going to get you anywhere but it is something that should be checked anyway.
Looking at your problem from the other direction, it seems that your system has issues with communication devices - Bluetooth, FireWire and now Remote Login. I'm not sure how you are communicating with your system remotely (network - i.e., ethernet or dial-up, i.e., modem), but you might want to reinstall/update the drivers associated with your Ethernet or Modem hardware. Since the problem seems to go away on a reinstall, which refreshes all these drivers, you might want to try this. It's a lot simpler than a reinstall.
The Remote Login Service installs and/or starts a number of services that depend on the svchost.exe module. It seems unlikely that there is a problem there but you might want to make sure that svchost.exe is truly the SP2 version or whatever is the most recent. I don't know if any patches since SP2 have modified it. You could look at another XP system can check the properties of svchost.exe.
My system reports
File Version 5.1.2600.2180 (xpsp_sp2_rtm.040803-2158)
Product Version 5.1.2600.2180
for svchost.exe
Sorry I can't give you any more specific help.
Good luck,
ss

Clock running slow on iPad

The clock on my iPad is running about 12 minutes slow yet clocks running in apps are at the correct time. Any ideas?

How slow? Many users have reported hours or days ahead or behind on iOS4. I have read on other posts that doing a full restore fixes the problem. Here is how:
To do a full restore:
- Start iTunes and plug in your device.
- Under Devices, click on your device.
- On the Summary page there are two buttons: 'Check for Update' and 'Restore'.
- Click Restore.
- The system will back up your device, then reset it to factory specs, then restore from the backup. This takes QUITE a while, depending on how much stuff you have on there.
Doing this seems to have solved the problem for me. I haven't had it randomly change the time in the 6 days since I posted my message.
Message was edited by: MacOldtimer

Clock running slow on iPod touch

Hello all, I am experiencing an issue with my iPod touch's clock running slow. I believe I have a 2nd generation and am running OS 4. I checked to see if my PC's clock is slower but it is not. Does anyone have any ideas?

How slow? Many users have reported hours or days ahead or behind on iOS4. I have read on other posts that doing a full restore fixes the problem. Here is how:
To do a full restore:
- Start iTunes and plug in your device.
- Under Devices, click on your device.
- On the Summary page there are two buttons: 'Check for Update' and 'Restore'.
- Click Restore.
- The system will back up your device, then reset it to factory specs, then restore from the backup. This takes QUITE a while, depending on how much stuff you have on there.
Doing this seems to have solved the problem for me. I haven't had it randomly change the time in the 6 days since I posted my message.
Message was edited by: MacOldtimer

15-inch, 2.53GHz, Mid 2009: 10.9.1 -running slow. Any way to speed it up?

2.53GHz, Mid 2009: 10.9.1 -running slow. Any way to speed it up?

Things You Can Do To Resolve Slow Downs
If your computer seems to be running slower here are some things you can do:
Start with visits to:     OS X Maintenance - MacAttorney;
                                  The X Lab: The X-FAQs;
                                  The Safe Mac » Mac Performance Guide;
                                  The Safe Mac » The myth of the dirty Mac;
                                  Mac maintenance Quick Assist.
Boot into Safe Mode then repair your hard drive and permissions:
Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions Pre-Lion
Boot from your OS X Installer disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Utilities menu. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the installer.
Repair the Hard Drive - Lion/Mountain Lion/Mavericks
Boot to the Recovery HD:
Restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the COMMAND and R keys until the Utilites Menu screen appears. Alternatively, restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the OPTION key until the boot manager screen appears. Select the Recovery HD disk icon and click on the arrow button below.
When the recovery menu appears select Disk Utility. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported, then click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the main menu. Select Restart from the Apple menu.
Restart your computer normally and see if this has helped any. Next do some maintenance:
For situations Disk Utility cannot handle the best third-party utility is Disk Warrior; DW only fixes problems with the disk directory, but most disk problems are caused by directory corruption; Disk Warrior 4.x is now Intel Mac compatible.
Note: Alsoft ships DW on a bootable DVD that will startup Macs running Snow Leopard or earlier. It cannot start Macs that came with Lion or later pre-installed, however, DW will work on those models.
Suggestions for OS X Maintenance
OS X performs certain maintenance functions that are scheduled to occur on a daily, weekly, or monthly period. The maintenance scripts run in the early AM only if the computer is turned on 24/7 (no sleep.) If this isn't the case, then an excellent solution is to download and install a shareware utility such as Macaroni, JAW PseudoAnacron, or Anacron that will automate the maintenance activity regardless of whether the computer is turned off or asleep. Dependence upon third-party utilities to run the periodic maintenance scripts was significantly reduced since Tiger. These utilities have limited or no functionality with Snow Leopard or later and should not be installed.
OS X automatically defragments files less than 20 MBs in size, so unless you have a disk full of very large files there's little need for defragmenting the hard drive.
Helpful Links Regarding Malware Protection
An excellent link to read is Tom Reed's Mac Malware Guide.
Also, visit The XLab FAQs and read Detecting and avoiding malware and spyware.
See these Apple articles:
          Mac OS X Snow Leopard and malware detection
          OS X Lion- Protect your Mac from malware
          OS X Mountain Lion- Protect your Mac from malware
          About file quarantine in OS X
If you require anti-virus protection I recommend using VirusBarrier Express 1.1.6 or Dr.Web Light both from the App Store. They're both free, and since they're from the App Store, they won't destabilize the system. (Thank you to Thomas Reed for these recommendations.)
Troubleshooting Applications
I recommend downloading a utility such as TinkerTool System, OnyX, Mavericks Cache Cleaner, or Cocktail that you can use for removing old log files and archives, clearing caches, etc. Corrupted cache, log, or temporary files can cause application or OS X crashes as well as kernel panics.
If you have Snow Leopard or Leopard, then for similar repairs install the freeware utility Applejack. If you cannot start up in OS X, you may be able to start in single-user mode from which you can run Applejack to do a whole set of repair and maintenance routines from the command line. Note that AppleJack 1.5 is required for Leopard. AppleJack 1.6 is compatible with Snow Leopard. Applejack does not work with Lion and later.
Basic Backup
For some people Time Machine will be more than adequate. Time Machine is part of OS X. There are two components:
1. A Time Machine preferences panel as part of System Preferences;
2. A Time Machine application located in the Applications folder. It is
    used to manage backups and to restore backups. Time Machine
    requires a backup drive that is at least twice the capacity of the
    drive being backed up.
Alternatively, get an external drive at least equal in size to the internal hard drive and make (and maintain) a bootable clone/backup. You can make a bootable clone using the Restore option of Disk Utility. You can also make and maintain clones with good backup software. My personal recommendations are (order is not significant):
1. Carbon Copy Cloner
2. Get Backup
3. Deja Vu
4. SuperDuper!
5. Synk Pro
6. Tri-Backup
Visit The XLab FAQs and read the FAQ on backup and restore. Also read How to Back Up and Restore Your Files. For help with using Time Machine visit Pondini's Time Machine FAQ for help with all things Time Machine.
Referenced software can be found at MacUpdate.
Additional Hints
Be sure you have an adequate amount of RAM installed for the number of applications you run concurrently. Be sure you leave a minimum of 10% of the hard drive's capacity as free space.
Add more RAM. If your computer has less than 2 GBs of RAM and you are using OS X Leopard or later, then you can do with more RAM. Snow Leopard and Lion work much better with 4 GBs of RAM than their system minimums. The more concurrent applications you tend to use the more RAM you should have.
Always maintain at least 15 GBs or 10% of your hard drive's capacity as free space, whichever is greater. OS X is frequently accessing your hard drive, so providing adequate free space will keep things from slowing down.
Check for applications that may be hogging the CPU:
Pre-Mavericks
Open Activity Monitor in the Utilities folder. Select All Processes from the Processes dropdown menu. Click twice on the CPU% column header to display in descending order. If you find a process using a large amount of CPU time (>=70,) then select the process and click on the Quit icon in the toolbar. Click on the Force Quit button to kill the process. See if that helps. Be sure to note the name of the runaway process so you can track down the cause of the problem.
Mavericks and later
Open Activity Monitor in the Utilities folder. Select All Processes from the View menu. Click on the CPU tab in the toolbar. Click twice on the CPU% column header to display in descending order. If you find a process using a large amount of CPU time (>=70,) then select the process and click on the Quit icon in the toolbar. Click on the Force Quit button to kill the process. See if that helps. Be sure to note the name of the runaway process so you can track down the cause of the problem.
Often this problem occurs because of a corrupted cache or preferences file or an attempt to write to a corrupted log file.

HT4528 I just got a replacement iPhone 4s and i let the battery run down all the way before charging it and now that i have put it on the charger it won't turn back on or show any signs that it is charging. its just a black screen. how do i fix it

just got a replacement iPhone 4s and i let the battery run down all the way before charging it and now that i have put it on the charger it won't turn back on or show any signs that it is charging. its just a black screen. how do i fix it

Keep iPhone on wall charger for ten minutes, it may turn ON itself. If still nothing, keep on charger and Reset, hold both home and power buttons for about 20 seconds until the iPhone begins to respond.

Clock runs fast

I just got my new Mac Pro (3.0) and I've found the clock runs fast, easily slipping an hour every day. Even when I have it set to use Apple's time servers, I've found that the clock easily slips several minutes into the future.
1) Can I fix this somehow?
2) Can I get "set date and time automatically" to update more frequently?
Thanks!

Thomas-
Are you running Leopard Server? I am, and I think I've narrowed it down to that.
On a separate, newly formatted drive, I created two partitions. On one, I installed Server. Bare bones, no updates, etc. On the other, I installed Client. End result? Server runs fast (4 s/m), Client runs fine. Client also runs fine on my MacBook. When I make a copy of my Server drive to my MacBook (Restore from Disk Utility), I have no time loss.
So, it seems it's combination of software and hardware (in my case). I really hope you're running Server so I can report this bug, somehow.

Mavericks clock running fast

Since my Mavericks upgrade, my 27" iMac clock runs fast. It was about 3 min fast today after a few weeks since I reset it last.
If I open my Date & Time Preferences it corrects the time, but then continues to run fast.
I have it set to: Set date and time automatically: Apple Americas/ U.S. (time.apple.com)
I do not have a check to set time zone automatically, but chose the city.
Any suggestions?

Hi...
Try this support article > OS X: Incorrect date or time displayed in various applications

IMac starts with sound but remains with Apple logo and the clock running indefinetely

After software upgrade ( from mavericks to new mavericks ) iMac doesn't start anymore. It remains always in the same mode: after the sound of start the Apple logo and the clock that runs indefinitely without the start of the software. Someone knows what to do?

Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
Step 1
The first step in dealing with a startup failure is to secure the data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since the last backup, you can skip this step.
There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to start. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
a. Start up from the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.”
b. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, start the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
c. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
Step 2
If the startup process stops at a blank gray screen with no Apple logo or spinning "daisy wheel," then the startup volume may be full. If you had previously seen warnings of low disk space, this is almost certainly the case. You might be able to start up in safe mode even though you can't start up normally. Otherwise, start up from an external drive, or else use either of the techniques in Steps 1b and 1c to mount the internal drive and delete some files. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of available space on the startup volume (as shown in the Finder Info window) for normal operation.
Step 3
Sometimes a startup failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
Step 4
If you use a wireless keyboard, trackpad, or mouse, replace or recharge the batteries. The battery level shown in the Bluetooth menu item may not be accurate.
Step 5
If there's a built-in optical drive, a disc may be stuck in it. Follow these instructions to eject it.
Step 6
Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to start up, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can start up now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
Step 7
If you've started from an external storage device, make sure that the internal startup volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
Start up in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the startup volume is a Fusion Drive or a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to start and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know the login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
When you start up in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, the startup volume is corrupt and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to Step 10. If you ever have another problem with the drive, replace it immediately.
If you can start and log in in safe mode, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on the startup volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then restart as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
If the startup process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
Step 8
Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select the startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then restart as usual.
Step 9
Reinstall the OS. If the Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
Step 10
Do as in Step 9, but this time erase the startup volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically restart into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer the data from a Time Machine or other backup.
Step 11
This step applies only to models that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery: all Mac Pro's and some others (not current models.) Both desktop and portable Macs used to have such a battery. The logic-board battery, if there is one, is separate from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a startup failure. Typically the failure will be preceded by loss of the settings for the startup disk and system clock. See the user manual for replacement instructions. You may have to take the machine to a service provider to have the battery replaced.
Step 12
If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service provider.

Why is my Macbook pro clock running negative numbers?

My Macbook Pro clock is running negative numbers.

When something of interest is on the screen, shift-command-3 will take a complete screenshot, or shift-command-4 puts up cross-hairs to let you choose just part of the screen. Either way, the screenshot is put on your desktop as "Screenshotn.png" (where the n is 1,2,3 or whatever, depending on what is there already). When composing a post in Apple discussions, click the little camera icon in the editing toolbar and you can select the image to be included with your post.

Clock running at 1 min every 12 sec?

I was on the internet earlier (dial up unfortunately) and I stepped away for about 3-5 minutes. When I returned it was asking if I wanted to disconect or stay connected. I stayed connected and then looked at the clock in the bottom right corner. It was about 25 minutes fast. I clicked on it and watched as the seconds on the clock moved around the clock face every 12 seconds. Then the computer asked again if I wanted to disconect again.
I disconnected and then restarted my computer. After I did the clock returned to the normal speed. I reset the clock.
Does anyone out there have any ideas what causes this to happen, and more importantly how do I prevent the problem from happening again.
Thanks in advance!!

Quote
Originally posted by mdt23
1) I do plan to go with XP in the near future. I have been hesitant of it and wanted to wait for it to get some time under its belt to work out the bugs (no ME disaster) and get the SP1 also. Now that it is out I will look into getting it. I just need to find it for the right price (legitimate only of course).
2) Since we are on the subject, which should I choose, Home or Pro.
3a) I use the system for internet, moderate gaming, and the wife uses it for Auto Cad 3-5 times a year.
3b) Also a suggestion on a Modem would be great
mdt23:
1) ME disaster, wanna hear something funny I've had either great luck w/ me or horendous luck, however I've been running my mother's laptop w/ since it came out, and it's still running like a champ (no reinstall yet!). Strange huh?
2) Are you planning on doing a lot of networking or making lot of connections to networks (i believe 8 is the limit on home)? If the answer to that is no, then you will be fine with home, as I believe that is the only major drawback (and only being able to have one processor). You should be able to pick up OEM XP Home Upgrade for around $70. That said I use Pro, and only use one CPU, and have one net connection (I got it Pro free from MS so that's why I use Pro, but I'm a snob anyway, so I'd probably be using Pro even if I had to pay for it!).
3a) How do you connect to the internet? Dial up or broadband?
3b) I have a feeling you will probably be ok using the winmodem, and I would try to still use it after your upgrade to XP. If you still have issues look into a US Robotics controller based modem (not software).
I'd check newegg as they'll certainly have it for less.
good luck keep us posted!

T60 clock running in a funny way

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