The best antivirus and male ware for Macbook Pro

I'm new using Macbook Pro, and please help me to know more is that Macbook pro need antivirus?
and what the best antivirus for Macbook Pro

fazhri sinaga wrote:
I'm new using Macbook Pro, and please help me to know more is that Macbook pro need antivirus?
and what the best antivirus for Macbook Pro
Well, that depends. In your profile you say you are using Mac OS X 10.0.x, but that won't run on a MacBook Pro, so it must be much newer than that.
Since you also say you have a 13" Late 2011 MBP, you must at least be running OS X 10.7.2, so the answer is that the best anti-virus protection available today would be a fully up-to-date 10.7.4 which will protect you against all currently known malware that can impact your computer. But of course, there is always tomorrow and that could be a different story. Just be careful with how you use your admin password and approve certificates and you will probably be fine.
A good summary of OS X malware can be fourn on Thomas Reed's site http://www.reedcorner.net/guides/macvirus/

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What is thes best 5.1 speaker kit for macbook pro 2011

what is the best 5.1 speaker kit for my macbook pro
thanks for help.

A 5.1 is considered a surround sound system, it's typically used in home theater systems, not computers.
A computer doesn't have the necessary electronics to produce the rich quality of sound that a 5.1 system can deliver, the PC 5.1's are just gamers gimmick cards, they too really don't have the necessary electronics or wattage for rich, full bodied sound.
Now I can tell you what works really well as a 5.1 system for iTunes, movies and such from your MacBook Pro, or anything really.
A Harmon Kardon 5.1 Home Theater.
It has 110 Watt speakers, 5 of them, and a 200 watt subwoofer that will make your heart thump in your chest.
You need only two things with this system, a optical stereo mini Toslink adapter and a optical Toslink cable.
You plug one inside your MacBook Pro (enable the optical out) and the other to the receiver and mess with the remote to enable theater mode from the computer for iTunes (takes stereo and makes it quad sound with separate bass)
For playing DVD's with 5.1, you enable the right 5.1 encoding, Dolby, ProLogic etc on both and the Mac passes the 5.1 through the system to the receiver.
For playing 3D games, you just pass the 5.1 through, the receiver handles the surround sound.
The important thing is setup, the listening point needs to be right in the center of the four channel speakers, the center is over your monitor or TV and the subwoofer is stuck in a free corner someplace, it's placement is unimportant, as long as it's in the room and not blocked.
Brother, you have system like this hooked up to your iTunes and tears will be falling from your eyes the music sounds so good. Makes you full hear the full quality of the iTunes bought music.
Will set you back a couple of thousand, but it's worth it. All the cables etc are color coded, easy to setup.
http://www.harmankardon.com/Pages/LocaleSelector.aspx
Hope that helps
(no comp)

What is the best audio production hard drive for macbook pro 13" 2.53 ghz?

I'm new to mac, this has been a big transition.
I've been looking on newegg and there are tons of choices.
Looking for a good hard drive for music production in live 8, 7200 rpm has been recommended. Should it be internal or external?
I'm making minimalist oldschool synthpop so I don't need too many plugins or tracks at once but I am gigging so I want gear that's simple, I love everything about the apogee duet in this respect.
I have macbook pro 13" 2.53 ghz 4GB ram
Apogee Duet
Ableton live 8 standard

For internal, you can't go wrong with the Hitachi Travelstar. They work very well with the MacBook Pro and right now you can get 300 GB of 7200 RPM for less than 75 dollars at Newegg. You could try that and see if you really need an external given the type of music you're working with.
If you decide to get an external, I would steer away from all-purpose drives and get one designed for audio, like the Glyph drives. Along the Apogee Duet simplicity lines, they're designed for music production and they just work. Most of them come with carrying cases. Just plug the Glyph into your MacBook Pro, plug the Duet into the Glyph, and that's it.

Antivirus and Internet Security for Macbook Pro

I see adds for software like Mac Cleaner all over the place. Should I have a Antivirus program on my Mac. I know it is neccessary on PC based equipment but I am not sure if I need it for Mac OS. Can someone help or offer a suggestion?

Mac OS X versions 10.6.7 and later have built-in detection of known Mac malware in downloaded files. The recognition database is automatically updated once a day; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders. In most cases, there’s no benefit from any other automated protection against malware.
The most effective defense against malware is your own intelligence. All known malware on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of Mac OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of trojans, which can only work if the victim is duped into running them. If you're smarter than the malware attacker thinks you are, you won't be duped. That means, primarily, that you never install software from an untrustworthy source. How do you know a source is untrustworthy?
Any website that prompts you to install a “codec,” “plug-in,” or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown site, merely in order to use the site, is untrustworthy.
A web operator who tells you that you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, or that you have won a prize in a contest you never entered, is trying to commit a crime with you as the victim.
“Cracked” versions of commercial software downloaded from a bittorrent are likely to be infected.
Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be downloaded directly from the developer’s website. No intermediary is acceptable.
Disable Java (not JavaScript) in your web browser(s). Few websites have Java content nowadays, so you won’t be missing much. This setting is mandatory in Mac OS X 10.5.8 or earlier, because Java in those versions has bugs that make it unsafe to use on the Internet. Those bugs will probably never be fixed, because those older operating systems are no longer being maintained by Apple. Migrate to a newer version of the Mac OS as soon as you can.
Follow these guidelines, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can reasonably be.
Never install any commercial "anti-virus" products for the Mac, as they all do more harm than good. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use the free software ClamXav — nothing else.

Which is the best antivirus and spyware for Mac?

Good morning,
Because of schoolwork and extracurricular activities, I am constantly sending and receiving e-mails and messages to and from PCs and other Apple devices, like IPads. Two years ago I purchased a 120,12GB MacBook Air and, until a few months ago, it went perfectly well.
I am not sure what happened, but lately, every time I go online, whatever I click -whether it is a random letter in a website, or a blank space in a page, anything- an advert appears or a new -unwanted- tab opens with publicity and such, the kind of additional tabs that open when you are watching movies online in a random website, but this time, it is happening with every website (even the Apple site) and almost constantly. I suspect it is something I downloaded or maybe something I received from an infected PC that I got a virus or problem from.
I tried using the MacKeeper software, but it is not working for me (?). Also I tried blocking pop-ups (I use Google Chrome), Java Script, automatic downloads, complements and everything I could when going online, but it has not gotten better over the last 9 months. My parents also recommended me a very good technician, who I personally know and has solved many of my previous problems, but he could not help me, in this situation.
For that reason, I have been considering either purchasing a good antivirus for my Mac or a new Mac and an antivirus for it, to prevent future problems like this one.
Either way, the question is the same,
Which is the best antivirus and spyware software for Mac?
Thank you so much for your attention.

Please get rid of MacKeeper, as it and most other such junk software will do more harm than good.
Please review the options below to determine which method is best to remove the Adware installed on your computer.
The Easy, safe, effective method:
http://www.adwaremedic.com/index.php
If you are comfortable doing manual file removals use the somewhat more difficult method:
http://support.apple.com/en-us/HT203987
Also read the articles below to be more prepared for the next time there is an issue on your computer.
https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-7471
https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-8071
http://www.thesafemac.com/tech-support-scam-pop-ups/

What is the best way to back up my MacBook Pro (OSX 10.9.5) before taking it in for service?

What is the best way to back up my MacBook Pro (OSX 10.9.5) before taking it in for service?

While I have nothing against Time Machine (and I do use it on some of my systems), I always make a bootable clone before taking a Mac in for service (2 actually), and I verify that clone boots before I let the Mac leave.
SuperDuper is free for a full clone (you only pay for incremental features).
<http://www.shirt-pocket.com/SuperDuper/SuperDuperDescription.html>
Carbon Copy Cloner provides a 1 month fully enabled demo mode before you have to buy the product or stop using it.
<https://www.bombich.com/>

What is the best antivirus/malware protection software for my iMac desktop

What is the best antivirus/malware protection software for my iMac

None is needed.
Helpful Links Regarding Malware Protection
An excellent link to read is Tom Reed's Mac Malware Guide.
Also, visit The XLab FAQs and read Detecting and avoiding malware and spyware.
See these Apple articles:
          Mac OS X Snow Leopard and malware detection
          OS X Lion- Protect your Mac from malware
          OS X Mountain Lion- Protect your Mac from malware
          About file quarantine in OS X
If you require anti-virus protection Thomas Reed recommends using Dr.Web Light from the App Store. It's free, and since it's from the App Store, it won't destabilize the system. If you prefer one of the better known commercial products, then Thomas recommends using Sophos.(Thank you to Thomas Reed for these recommendations.) If you already use Sophos, then be aware of this if you are using Mavericks: OS X Mavericks- Sophos Anti-Virus on-access scanner versions 8.0 - 9.1 may cause unexpected restarts
From user Joe Bailey comes this equally useful advice:
The facts are:
1. There is no anti-malware software that can detect 100% of the malware out there.
2. There is no anti-malware that can detect anything targeting the Mac because there
     is no Mac malware in the wild, and therefore, no "signatures" to detect.
3. The very best way to prevent the most attacks is for you as the user to be aware that
     the most successful malware attacks rely on very sophisticated social engineering
     techniques preying on human avarice, ****, and fear.
4. Internet popups saying the FBI, NSA, Microsoft, your ISP has detected malware on
    your computer is intended to entice you to install their malware thinking it is a
    protection against malware.
5. Some of the anti-malware products on the market are worse than the malware
    from which they purport to protect you.
6. Be cautious where you go on the internet.
7. Only download anything from sites you know are safe.
8. Avoid links you receive in email, always be suspicious even if you get something
    you think is from a friend, but you were not expecting.
9. If there is any question in your mind, then assume it is malware.

What is the best sharepoint 2010 synchronisation tool for macbook air

what is the best sharepoint 2010 synchronisation tool for macbook.
Access sharepoint from a mapped drive is really slow, so I want to save my files locally and synchronise with Sharepoint 2010.
Is there an application or client for this.

Ok, so do you have a recommend brand and space capacity?
You mentioned that one of your primary needs is to store video, which demands large capacity. As a consequence I'd suggest a drive with at least 1Tb, perhaps greater, capacity. I don't have a preferred brand or manufacturer - it's a bit like recommending which is better between Ford and Chevy - but I have a couple of Western Digital external USB drives which have proven very reliable, and a Seagate which is used as a daily backup and has worked flawlessly.
DWB's point about backups is important too, because when you store files on any drive there is a risk of that drive failing - and indeed, all drives will fail at some point. The question is, can you live with the total loss of those files if the drive does fail? If you are storing files that you value, then a backup is needed to help protect those files. Ideally that would mean two drives, not one. One to use for the storing the files, and the second to use to back those files up.

What is the best camcorder to buy using my MacBook Pro

I just purchased the MacBook Pro (1st time Mac owner). I am wondering if there is a particular camcorder that would work best for making videos using iMovie. I have purchased a Sony Handycam AVCHD and googled the reviews. It seems people have some problems using this camcorder with the MacBook. Any suggestions. 1. Will the camcorder I bought be just fine or do I need to return this and purchase a different one. I just want to record my kids activities and make home movies to send to their grandparents. Thanks

Lilypig wrote:
Which is the best mouse to use with my macbook pro?
"It depends" is the correct answer.
If you love using gestures, you'll want a Magic Mouse or Magic Trackpad.
If you love high precision, a trackball is often preferable to a mouse.
If you love modified mouse actions, a mouse with extra programmable buttons is a good idea.
If you love gaming, a responsive high-resolution gaming mouse is probably best.
If you love graphics/art, it is possible no mouse is best; instead you want a pressure-sensitive stylus and tablet for maximum control over painting and retouching.
No one else can tell you what the best is, unless they share your preferences exactly.

What is the best program to run on my MacBook Pro to clean it up?

can anyone tell me what the best program to run on a MacBook Pro to clean it up, make it run faster?

When you next have the problem, note the exact time: hour, minute, second.
If you have more than one user account, these instructions must be carried out as an administrator.
Launch the Console application in any of the following ways:
☞ Enter the first few letters of its name into a Spotlight search. Select it in the results (it should be at the top.)
☞ In the Finder, select Go ▹ Utilities from the menu bar, or press the key combination shift-command-U. The application is in the folder that opens.
☞ Open LaunchPad. Click Utilities, then Console in the icon grid.
Make sure the title of the Console window is All Messages. If it isn't, select All Messages from the SYSTEM LOG QUERIES menu on the left. If you don't see that menu, select
View ▹ Show Log List
from the menu bar.
Each message in the log begins with the date and time when it was entered. Scroll back to the time you noted above. Select the messages entered from then until the end of the episode, or until they start to repeat, whichever comes first. Copy the messages to the Clipboard by pressing the key combination command-C. Paste into a reply to this message (command-V).
The log contains a vast amount of information, almost all of it useless for solving any particular problem. When posting a log extract, be selective. In most cases, a few dozen lines are more than enough. It is never necessary or helpful to post more than about 100 lines. "The more, the better" is not the rule here.
Please do not indiscriminately dump thousands of lines from the log into this discussion.
Important: Some private information, such as your name, may appear in the log. Anonymize before posting.

The normal value of battery capacity for macbook pro

Hi there,
I noticed my battery full charge capacity value is way below the technical specification from Apple.
For macbook pro 15" early 2011 version a 77.5W battery is built-in.
However, so far after 4 cycle, my full charge capacity is 6913mAh.
It seems that I missed something. Though I didn't really notice the initial value when it's brandnew.
Statistically what's the average value of the new battery will be ? around 75W or 7500mAh? Any idea?

Best battery info resource is here:
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/1764220?threadID=1764220

What is the best way to transfer iPhoto from MacBook Pro to iMac?

What is the best way to transfer iPhoto from MacBook Pro to iMac?

the only way is Connect the two Macs together (network, firewire target mode, etc) and drag the iPhoto library intact as a single entity from the old Mac to the pictures folder of the new Mac - launch iPhoto on the new mac and it will open the library and convert it as needed and you will be ready move forward.
LN

What is the best antivirus/malware protection software for a MacBook Pro?

I bought my MacBook Pro in April of 2011 and it's been running fine ever since then. I do not keep too many files on my laptop and have everything backed up on a 4TB external hard drive. I have programs that keep my MacBook running smoothly and as fast as possible by clearing out unnecessary files. Recently, my MacBook has become slow and I now normally have to click on a button at least three times before the page loads or refresh the page. Sometimes I even have to force quit Safari and restart from the beginning just to load a web page. Programs will quit unexpectedly and downloading something takes ten times longer. I fear there may be something wrong with my MacBook and it might have a virus or something. What is the best antivirus/malware software to download? I'm leaning towards Norton Antivirus for Mac or Intego Mac Internet Security. Could someone please help me?

1. This comment applies to malicious software ("malware") that's installed unwittingly by the victim of a network attack. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the victim's computer. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. If you have reason to suspect that you're the target of such an attack, you need expert help.
If you find this comment too long or too technical, read only sections 5, 6, and 10.
OS X now implements three layers of built-in protection specifically against malware, not counting runtime protections such as execute disable, sandboxing, system library randomization, and address space layout randomization that may also guard against other kinds of exploits.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user, but internally Apple calls it "XProtect." The malware recognition database is automatically checked for updates once a day; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets.
It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been a second layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't necessarily been tested by Apple, but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. That may not mean much if the developer lives in a country with a weak legal system (see below.)
Gatekeeper doesn't depend on a database of known malware. It has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could simply ignore the consequences of distributing codesigned malware.
An App Store developer could find a way to bypass Apple's oversight, or the oversight could fail due to human error.
For the reasons given above, App Store products, and other applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed, are safer than others, but they can't be considered absolutely safe. "Sandboxed" applications may prompt for access to private data, such as your contacts, or for access to the network. Think before granting that access. OS X security is based on user input. Never click through any request for authorization without thinking.
4. Starting with OS X 10.8.3, a third layer of protection has been added: a "Malware Removal Tool" (MRT). MRT runs automatically in the background when you update the OS. It checks for, and removes, malware that may have evaded the other protections via a Java exploit (see below.) MRT also runs when you install or update the Apple-supplied Java runtime (but not the Oracle runtime.) Like XProtect, MRT is effective against known threats, but not against unknown ones. It notifies you if it finds malware, but otherwise there's no user interface to MRT.
5. The built-in security features of OS X reduce the risk of malware attack, but they're not absolute protection. The first and best line of defense is always going to be your own intelligence. With the possible exception of Java exploits, all known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and the malware attacker. If you're smarter than he thinks you are, you'll win.
That means, in practice, that you never use software that comes from an untrustworthy source, or that does something inherently untrustworthy. How do you know what is trustworthy?
Any website that prompts you to install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one, is untrustworthy.
A web operator who tells you that you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, or that you have won a prize in a contest you never entered, is trying to commit a crime with you as the victim. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
Pirated copies or "cracks" of commercial software, no matter where they come from, are unsafe.
Software of any kind downloaded from a BitTorrent or from a Usenet binary newsgroup is unsafe.
Software that purports to help you do something that's illegal or that infringes copyright, such as saving streamed audio or video for reuse without permission, is unsafe. All YouTube "downloaders" are in this category, though not all are necessarily harmful.
Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be downloaded directly from the developer’s website. If it comes from any other source, it's unsafe.
Even signed applications, no matter what the source, should not be trusted if they do something unexpected, such as asking for permission to access your contacts, your location, or the Internet for no obvious reason.
6. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was always a bad idea, and Java's developers have proven themselves incapable of implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style virus affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful.
Fortunately, client-side Java on the Web is obsolete and mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice. Forget about playing games or other non-essential uses of Java.
Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it — not JavaScript — in your browsers.
Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a task on a specific site, enable Java only for that site in Safari. Never enable Java for a public website that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, login-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a lock icon in the address bar with the abbreviation "https" when visiting a secure site.
Follow the above guidelines, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can practically be. The rest of this comment concerns what you should not do to protect yourself from malware.
7. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they all do more harm than good, if they do any good at all. Any database of known threats is always going to be out of date. Most of the danger is from unknown threats. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use one of the free anti-virus products in the Mac App Store — nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial "anti-virus" products?
Their design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere.
In order to meet that nonexistent threat, the software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
By modifying the operating system, the software itself may create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
8. An anti-malware product from the App Store, such as "ClamXav," doesn't have these drawbacks. That doesn't mean it's entirely safe. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
An anti-virus app is not needed, and should not be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful only for detecting Windows malware. Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else.
A Windows malware attachment in email is usually easy to recognize. The file name will often be targeted at people who aren't very bright; for example:
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥!!!!!!!H0TBABEZ4U!!!!!!!.AVI♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥.exe
Anti-virus software may be able to tell you which particular virus or trojan it is, but do you care? In practice, there's seldom a reason to use the software unless a network administrator requires you to do it.
The ClamXav developer won't try to "upsell" you to a paid version of the product. Other developers may do that. Don't be upsold. For one thing, you should not pay to protect Windows users from the consequences of their choice of computing platform. For another, a paid upgrade from a free app will probably have the disadvantages mentioned in section 7.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.
10. As a Mac user you don't have to live in fear that your computer is going to be infected every time you install an application, read email, or visit a web page. But neither should you have the false idea that you will always be safe, no matter what you do. The greatest harm done by security software is precisely its selling point: it makes people feel safe. They may then feel safe enough to take risks from which the software doesn't protect them. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices.

Good tracking speed, CHEAP, big, quality and reliable mouse for macbook pro

Hi mac people,
I need a mouse for this all purposes:
1)Reduce using the build in trackpad(to protect my built in trackpad)
2)Sometime I want casual gaming(Simcity,ps1 game, some other point and shoot game)
3)I 'm 183cm tall, so my hand is quite big, and I use my macbook pro as my primary pc, so need a all day use mouse(but I use my mac only about 3 hour a day).
4)as mentioned in title.
Thanks everyone for sharing advice!!!!!

As everyone's hands are different, I'd suggest going to any store with computer accessories and simply trying the feel of whatever brands of mice they sell.

I want the Drivers of Canon LBP 2900 for macbook pro., i want the Drivers of Canon LBP 2900 for macbook pro.

please give me any link of Canon LBP 2900 Drivers for MacBook Pro ..i want to instal the printer but its not done

I don't see your printer on the supported Apple list - and when I visit Canon, all I get is this:
Apparently, it's not supported in OS X.
Clinton

The best antivirus and male ware for Macbook Pro

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