TS3048 My early 2009 Mac Pro does not connect via bluetooth to my sound bar or bluetooth mini speakers. Both my wireless keyboard and mouse have no problems connecting. What do I need to do to connect to external bluetooth devices?

My early 2009 Mac Pro does not connect via bluetooth to my sound bar or bluetooth mini speakers. Both my wireless keyboard and mouse have no problems connecting. What do I need to do to connect to external bluetooth devices?

I would always have a wired keyboard and mouse on hand (need not be expensive ... any cheap wired devices will work). "Emergency recovery" procedures can activate features in random order, so the opportunity to select a recovery partition may pass before the wireless devices are recognized.
That will let you select the "turn on Bluetooth" icon.

Similar Messages

Apple wireless keyboard and trackpad have decided to disconnect. Is there a simple way to connect them back up. Remember, I can't to anything on the machine because they won't connect!

I can't do any thing on the machine because I can't log on to it because the keyboard and mouse won't or aren't connected to the machine. Somebody please help? :)

Have you tried pulling the batteries out, & maybe try a set of fresh Alkaline batteries?

How do I properly zero out or erase the hard drives in my early 2009 Mac Pro 4,1 tower?

How do I properly zero out or erase the hard drives in my early 2009 Mac Pro 4,1 tower?
I assume there are already instructions on Apple.com someplace but haven't seen them yet… I have to one terabyte drives one the operating system the other is blank I want to start fresh I want to zero out both drives but I didn't want to make any mistakes
I know I can use disk utility to 0 Out Dr., #2 that means I will have to take out the operating system hard drive out of my 2008 Mac Pro and put it into my 2009 Mac Pro to use the disk utility to zero out drive one the OS drive in my 2009 Mac Pro am my correct
I just need a little bit a help I want to go slow so I don't make any mistakes with the sleds or with the erasing process which journaled to choose encrypted or not etc. etc.
Furthermore is there instructions on the site on how to change the hard drive into a different sled because the sleds and my 2009 are different than my 2008 any advice
Thank you

I'm doing this because my friend told me that zeroing out the drive can nap bad sectors and also later for some kind of diagnostics usage of the drive or something like that he wasn't really clear
My friend was really specific he said choose the option that writes zero's once over the drive that is plenty good enough I was inclined to use the maximum seven write ...I just want to make sure the drive has no bad sectors and that's it's it's zeroed out for possible future diagnostics usage or something that he said was usable later
he also advised me to run a test on it but I don't have the software you mentioned or the software that he has… So I may have to take the drives over to his house unless you have some kind of free software that's easy to use that you could suggest that will not only zero out the drive but test the drive completely
I am completely new to Mac I'm no dummy but at the same time I'm not super technically capable I mean I can surprise myself I'm pretty good but I need a good teacher… How expensive is this lifeguard software?
Thank you

My Early 2009 Mac Pro won't restart after installing Mavericks

I have installed Mavericks on my Early 2009 Mac Pro and all seemed to install just fine but when I restart the Mac then it won't get past a grey screen with Apple logo. It seems that it does get reasonabley far into the startup, it gets passed the grey screen with cricling progress thingmy under the Apple logo, then it flashes very quickly and after that it is a grey screen with the Apple logo and no further.
I did try installing Mavericks when it first came out and I had this problem so I just abandoned and reinstalled Mountain Lion from my Time Machine backup. However I thought that with Mavericks now at 9.1, maybe it would work okay this time but no change. However this time I do want to get it working because the lastest Final Cut Pro X requires Mavericks and I do a lot of video editing.
Here are the things I've tried which have made no difference:
Removed all peripherals, so that now nothing is plugged in except the original Apple Keyboard, my Apple trackpad and my Eizo monitor.
I tried starting it in Safe Boot mode but this made no difference.
I started it up in Recovery mode and it will start in Recovery mode. While in Recovery mode I checked the startup hard drive with Disk Utility, the drive is fine, as and I repaired disk permisions which made no difference.
I zapped the PRAM.
I connected it to my MacBook Pro in Target Disk mode and used ProSoft's Drive Genius 3 to check over the startup hard drive again and check disk permissions and all is well.
It still will not startup
I would be most grateful if someone could assist.

Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
Step 1
The first step in dealing with a boot failure is to secure your data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since your last backup, you can skip this step.
There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to boot. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
a. Boot into the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.”
b. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, boot the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
c. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
Step 2
Sometimes a boot failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
Step 3
If you use a wireless keyboard, trackpad, or mouse, replace or recharge the batteries. The battery level shown in the Bluetooth menu item may not be accurate.
Step 4
If there's a built-in optical drive, a disc may be stuck in it. Follow these instructions to eject it.
Step 5
Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to boot, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can boot now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
If you've booted from an external storage device, make sure that your internal boot volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
Step 6
Boot in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the boot volume is a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to boot and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know your login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
When you boot in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, your boot volume is corrupt and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to Step 6.
If you can boot and log in now, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on your boot volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then reboot as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
If the boot process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
Step 7
Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select your startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then reboot as usual.
Step 8
Reinstall the OS. If your Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
Step 9
Repeat Step 6, but this time erase the boot volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically reboot into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer your data from a Time Machine or other backup.
Step 10
This step applies only to older Macs (not current models) that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery. Both desktop and portable Macs used to have such a battery. The logic-board battery, if there is one, is separate from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a boot failure. Typically the failure will be preceded by loss of the settings for the startup disk and system clock. See the user manual for replacement instructions. You may have to take the machine to a service provider to have the battery replaced.
Step 11
If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service provider.

Upgrading Early 2009 Mac Pro to Yosemite

I need an upgrading for dummies tutorial I want to upgrade some applications that I use and can not do that with Mountain Lion which is currently on my Early 2009 Mac Pro. (Processor 2.66 GHz Quad-Core Intel Xeon - Memory 12 GB - Graphics NVIDIA GeForce GT 120 512 MB - OSX 10.8.5). My monitor is a NEC MultiSync P221W and I use Spectraview II to calibrate. I also have an older Dell monitor attached that I only use for palettes, etc.
I have discovered I can not upgrade to Mavericks and will need to go to Yosemite. I am nervous about the process and undecided what is the best way to tackle this. I assume I will first need to do a full backup and do have a bootable drive that I can use. Can I then just install Yosemite or is it best to do a clean install? I have heard so many negative things about installing Yosemite that I am really uncertain of the best way to tackle this. I am particularly concerned about the reports of system slow down.I have an even older MacBook Pro that is also running Mountain Lion but I have no plans to attempt an upgrade on it. It has had problems since it was fairly new and right now I use an external keyboard and a mouse because using the track pad or keyboard on the laptop cause it to lock up. (Long story and multiple rebuilds during and after Apple Care). So at this point the only machine I am concerned about is the desktop. I use it mainly for Photoshop and Lightroom and Quicken. If someone can give me some advice I would be most appreciative. I am an older gal with casual computer knowledge, living out in the sticks and really have no one available for help. Thanks in advance

Depending on how hard you push your system, size of files you work with.
You may want to look into 5,1 firmware; a W3690 or X5690 3.4GHz 6-core even to help more.
2009 Mac Pro 12-Core CPU Upgrade (Dual 3GHz Xeon X5675)
2009 8-Core Upgrade... The De-Lidded Route - MacRumors Forums
More memory, 24-32GB
OWC http://www.macsales.com is probably best place for DDR3 ECC
Macintosh Performance Guide Articles & Reviews
A faster better boot drive, and for plugins and cache. SATA II or III or PCIe-SSD blade
Samsung 850 EVO 250GB SSD your cheapest boot drive with a huge return and packs a punch in performance - booting, launching apps and large files, and saving.
A fast dedicated SSD device for Lightroom as well as something for working in Photoshop for scratch, unless you go with 500-1TB device.
SATA Express meets the '09 MacPro - Bootable NGFF PCIE SSD - Page 12 - MacRumors Forums
Samsung SM951 M.2 PCIe SSD Released StorageReview.com - Storage Reviews
SATA Express meets the '09 MacPro - Bootable NGFF PCIE SSD
SSD starts at just $80 + adapter for drive sled if talking Samsung 850 EVO (but I would get at least 250GB for a few dollars more as minimum).
A Samsung XP941 PCIe-SSD can't be beat with higher than SATA III speeds at 900MB/sec, $290 w/ adapter.
Samsung XP941 512GB M.2 80mm PCIe x4 SSD - MZHPU512HCGL
Samsung XP941 256GB PCIe 2.0 x4 M.2 SSD MZHPU256HCGL at Amazon
For graphic card, OWC can be over priced for even AMD 7950 Mac Edition or GTX 680.
MACVIDCARDS
More video memory helps of course, and a more modern card with either CUDA or better OpenCL
GeForce GTX 980 vs 9 other GPUs

Speeding up an early 2009 Mac Pro

This is not a question - it is an answer.
Starting configuration: Dual quad core 2.26GHz early 2009 Mac Pro (4,1) already expanded to 12 GB RAM; 175GB SSD, 1TB RAID 0 internal HD configuration, 2 1TB external d2 Quadra HDs (1 for cloned backup, the other for Time machine) connected via FW 800. A Superdrive, and an LG Blu-Ray burner, both internal.
My uses: Frequent business use of Microsoft Office and Acrobat Pro; occasional use of Adobe Photoshop Elements, frequent internet access via Safari and Mail; much use of iTunes and iPhoto, some Aperture, and occasional creation and burning of movies and slide shows to DVD and Blu-Ray with iDVD, Final Cut Express, Toast Titanium.
Problem: Extremely slow from power on to the first open program with a usable menu (usually 2-1/2 minutes). Extremely slow changing from one menu item to the next and very slow opening files. Glacial at performing those operations if a backup was ongoing.
Earlier efforts: Followed conventional wisdom for speed by adding 6 GB of RAM, bringing it to 12 GB (though my RAM usage rarely exceeded 3 GB). Added a small SSD containing only the OS and all applications; mapped the home folder to the internal 1 TB RAID 0 comprising 2 540GB 7200 rpm SATA 2 drives (but - having to access the internal RAID for all data files made the addition of the small SSD a futile exercise). The external drives are also 7200 rpm.
Here is what worked!! I replaced the 175GB SSD with a 1 TB Samsung EVO 840 SSD ($565) and re-mapped the home folder back to the SSD; added a Newer Tech MaxPower eSATA PCIe card ($87); connected the two external 1TB drives via eSATA rather than FW 800, which tripled their speed. My OS, applications and data files are around 600 GB, so the 1 TB SSD was large enough to handle everything, while the 175 GB drive wasn’t.
While the EVO 840 SSD and the eSATA card are SATA 3 rated (6Gb/s), the internal bus of the early Mac Pro is SATA 2 (3Gb/s), which is the maximum at which the system will operate. In addition, the internal and external hard drives drives themselves are also SATA 2 (the Superdrive and Blu-Ray burner are SATA 1, but slow nothing down when not being used; and SATA 1 is plenty fast for burners limited to 16X anyway).
The result: It now takes 60 to 61 seconds from power on until Safari opens with a useable menu (including the 5 seconds or so to select the user and log in), a speedup of 90 seconds. In more stark terms, from power on to the log-in screen appears under the old setup was 46 seconds, and with the new, 41 seconds (system and RAM checks take roughly the same amount of time regardless of the drive used); but once the user is selected and the access code is entered, the new setup takes 14 to 15 seconds vice 1 minute 45 seconds! Even better, moving from one menu item to the next in an open application is immediate. Files open quickly. And, there is NO detectable slowdown while any of the frequent backups are ongoing. Performance is now very fast, again.
My Mac Pro cost $3400 when new, and has of course been improved. A used 2012 Mac Pro 6 core with 3.33 GHz chipset would have run $2800 or more, and provided slightly higher GeekBench scores operating single-core, but slower multi-core speeds than I already have. A 3.33GHz 12 core machine refurbished by Apple would have run $5400, and provided 1/3 faster single core speeds, and the multi-core speeds would have been twice as fast, according to GeekBench. The new late 2013 4-core Mac Pro, while beautiful, would have run $4200 delivered (my upper limit), and would have required more investment to put the Superdrive and Blu-Ray burner into enclosures. Here is what amazed me: While its single-core speed would have been 78% faster, its multi-core GeekBench score was slower than my current machine! I guess those extra 4 cores make a difference.
The GeekBench scores heavily weigh processor-intensive functions, such as video compositing and editing, or working with large photo and graphic files. Those are not my primary uses, and spending money for significant performance gains in those areas made no sense for my use. But the $650 I spent for the 1TB SSD and eSATA PCIe card completely solved the slowdown I was experiencing. For my uses, that $650 was a much wiser investment than any of the other options. It gave me speed where I needed it, and not where it would have done little for me.

True but I catch all the Mail, Cache, /SyncServices and /Application Support - and for some reason the /Preferences folder is getting hit a lot.
The reason I use CCleaner is just to wipe clean all the brower type caches in one fell swoop. They get large and unwildly and harder to manage. Easy and faster to just download. Use to use a RAMDisk for the "web.cache" file or folders at one time to speed up system and surfing.
The entire ~/Library is 3GB for me
So even if it was 10GB it would still be fine and make sense to include the "home user account" ~/Library (you can of course include more)
Only saying to locate my 700GB of documents, media files and libraries "elsewhere" - pefect for a 2TB hdd. Or a pair of 10K WD VR 1TB drives though even they are limited if using SATA2 AND you have the system on same bus you start to hit the 700MB/sec that Mac Pro controller can handle.
So the ideal would have high access and to allow concurrent searches and IO in memory first, in cache memory buffers to drive controller and drives, and then use an SSD, before getting to the actual slower hdd. The choise of hdd also matters. Some 500GB drives are more like 85MB/sec at best vs 145MB for a single 2TB Seagate Constellation ($200) or WD Black. And no need to take up two drive bays.
Back to case in point, if you want to put the entire user account on its own SSD, fine but its cost for what performance is not what I would do. Even a small 128GB or spend another $70 for 250GB SSD instead, and leave all the user home account's media files on a slow 7.2K drive. Some 7.2k drives can do much much better on SATA3 / 6G. The 1TB 10K WD VR gets writes as well as reads in the 180-200MB/sec. which is about as good as it gets outside of SSD on a SATA2 bus and is only $200 (4-8X the storage of the SSDs I was talking about).

Poor performance with Yosemite and early 2009 Mac Pro

I have an early 2009 Mac Pro with the following specs:
- 2.66 GHz Quad Core Intel Xeon
- 10 GB of 1066 MHz RAM
- NVidia GeForce GT 120 512 MB
- 256 MB solid state drive for my system partition
- Two monitors connected, each at 1680x1050 resolution
Back when I was running OS X 10.7 or 10.8 I found that for every day tasks the performance using my computer was adequate. However, starting around 10.9, and even worse since upgrading to 10.10, thinks have gotten painfully slow. To give an example, activating Mission Control can take upwards of four seconds, with the animation being very choppy. Changing tabs on a Finder window can take two seconds for the switch to happen. Just switching between different windows, it can take several seconds for a window to activate. It's gotten to the point where I'm having difficulty working. So I'm thinking of upgrading some of my hardware.
Given my specs the weakest link seems to be my graphics card, and all of these issues do seem to be related to graphics. So my questions are:
- Do you think upgrading my graphics card will substantially improve things, and is there anything else I should upgrade?
- Is this slowness just the result of the computer being nearly six years old, and no upgrades will really improve things that much?
Thanks in advance!

Between Setup Assistant, and your existing system "untouched" (or use CCC if say you want to use an existing SSD for the system) there is no reason it should be a lot of work setting up. Have you ever used Migration or Setup? it has also gotten better.
Also, having 10.9.5 on another drive and running DU - and TRIM _now_ would be helpful.
Looking at just what gremlins you have running around inside your current system is not bad but.... sometimes the "long road" turns a shortcut into a dead end, and avoiding doing what seems the long road and hardest gets you where you want to go: a solid stable system.
Less is more. Most systems have more than needed and they get in the way and can cause trouble. Even handy "widgets" and those things that monitor system functions, even disk status. Which is why I like seeing a separate small system maintenance volume just for the weekly checkup. 30GB is more than enough so just slice out a partition somewhere - on another drive/device.
Those things, more so than and a lot cheaper than a new GPU. If your SSD is two years old, the 840 EVO from Samsung is down under $120 for 250GB, or use one for Lightroom / Aperture / iPhoto or scratch.
One person was complaining about sluggish window issue and thought it was the driver. Turned out It happened in ONE APP, not everywhere - very telling - and the app in question needs update. Adobe updated CC (for Windows) last month to finally support dual Dxx and some of the newer AMD GPUs - can the mac be far behind?
10GB RAM? that would not be 3 x 4GB or any combination using triple channel memory.

What USB 3.0 card should I get for early 2009 Mac Pro so I can connect the Drobo 5D? They say get CalDigit or Sonnet. Anyone have preference or experience with reliability. Trying to find which is better.

What USB 3.0 card should I get for early 2009 Mac Pro so I can connect the Drobo 5D? They say get CalDigit or Sonnet. Anyone have preference or experience with reliability with this. I am running Lion and Trying to find which is better as I know from experience not all cards are created equal. Thanks in advance for your help!

yakov536 wrote:
High Point RocketU Quad USB 3.0 for Mac is working great for me. Had an issue with CD/DVD Drive which was resolved with most current driver downloaded from the support site.
Running Moutain Lion on Early 2009, mirroring two Seagate Go Flex 2TB USB 3.0 Drives. Installed in Slot 4.
Using it primarily with VMWare Fusion for Virtual Drives. Windows, Unbuntu and other OS running really well.
HPT Support was responsive and very helpfull using the WEB Portal under the product page.
I have some comments and a suggestion:
Have you tried your setup with a SD/CF combo card reader (like the Lexar or Kingston FCR-H63)? Does the card appear on the desktop when first plugged in?
Did you need to fool around with any kind of power issues in installing this card in the x4 PCIe slot of the MacPro?
Suggestion. Have you tried one of the fixed in this article to cure the BT issues in MacPro 3,1?
Good luck.
Henry

2009 Mac Pro will not boot up under Windows

I have an Early 2009 Mac Pro system (Mac Pro 4,1) and I've had this system for 3 years already and have been working under OS X with this system ever since I purchased it.
However, when I tried to boot off my Windows disk, something very interesting happens. The Mac Pro WILL NOT boot up off the Windows disk or a known working Windows partition if two monitors are connected. Upon holding down the option key and selecting the Windows partition, I will get a black screen on one monitor (the one connected via Mini Displayport) and the other screen receives no signal and will enter standby and the system is halted. It does not respond to keystrokes, there is no hard drive activity, no measured power increase on the UPS, no apparent network activity, nothing. The only way to exit this scenario (from what I can tell) is to power off the machine, disconnect the display on DVI, power on the machine again, select the Windows partition wait for the system to reach the login window and reconnect the DVI monitor (at which time Windows recognizes it immediately and the system works fine again).
My question to the community is, does anybody know why this is happening and is there a known fix for this? Quite frankly, having to disconnect a monitor just to restart is very tedious and frustrating.
I have two Samsung P2350 monitors attached to an ATI Radeon HD 4870 (512MB, from Apple). One is monitor is connected via directly DVI and the other is using a Mini Displayport to DVI adapter. Both monitors work fine under OS X with no issue. At first, I thought that this may be a driver issue on the Windows side and after installing all the latest updates and drivers the issue is still apparent. From what I can tell, this doesn't seem like a software issue but rather a firmware or EFI issue as this happens before Windows even loads.
If anyone knows of a fix or what to do in this situation, or if you are also having this issue, I would love to hear your input!
Thank you!
For the record, I am running all the latest software builds on the OS X side (10.7.4, not that it would really matter at this point). I have also disconnected all unnecessary equipment in a trial and error scenario but the results are still the same.
The system passes all ASD testing.
The full specification of the computer and all connected equipment are as follows:
2009 Mac Pro (4,1) 8-Core
2x Intel Xeon Nehalem 2.66GHz Quad-Core CPUs
16GB DDR3 ECC 1066MHz RAM (Apple Branded)
Two OWC 120GB SSDs (One for OS X, the other for Windows 7 x64) - These are in place of my optical drives.
4x 2TB WD Black Hard drives for storage.
Two Samsung P2350 Monitors connected via DVI. (One using a Mini Displayport to DVI adapter).

In Windows I am using the latest (12.4) Catalyst Software Suite, 64 bit of course, downloaded directly from AMD's site after installing the drivers from Boot Camp.
As for installing Windows I used an original (not burned) installation media (Disk is in a pristine condition). And yes, Windows is fine, the problem just seems to be getting the system to boot up Windows with that second monitor. However if the "problem monitor" is disconnected the system boots fine 100% of the time and connecting it later after booting the system will still operate properly.
For the sake of arguement I swapped monitor cables and connected the "second" monitor to the mini displayport adapter to verify that it wasn't a cabling issue and I'm still yielding the same issues.
As for GPU testing, I've played games (Crysis, Grand Theft Auto IV, Battlefield 3, etc.) and I've had no issues with the card or stability.
You would think that Apple would try to find a fix for this, especially considering the caliber of this machine.

SuperDrives are backwards (Early-2009 Mac Pro)

Greetings:
I have two SuperDrives installed in my Early-2009 Mac Pro. When I hit the eject button the bottom tray comes out, option + eject brings out the top tray. When I burn things in Disk Utility the OS refers to the physically located bottom drive as "Upper SuperDrive".
I know it's not a huge issue, but I'm wondering if its an easy fix?
I popped the side panel off and checked the SATA/Power connections. Since that cable is pretty tightly wrapped the connectors can only go in one way (the little extended one has to go on the bottom drive).
So I figured the coonnectors on the motherboard are probably backwards.
Are they easy to get to? Or is this a huge pain and not worth it?
Thanks!
- D

It does. Initially I thought I could reverse them, but they're so tightly bundled that they won't reach that way.
- D

Early 2009 Mac Pro, Mavericks, and Airplay

Yes, I'm sure this question has been asked and answered a thousands times, but I have been looking in vain for an answer that helps me.
I have an early 2009 Mac Pro, running Mavericks. I have a Denon AVR-1912 Receiver, which my iPhone and iPad see and can play through with no trouble. So can my MacBook Pro. I also have Apple TV, but I don't use it for streaming music because the Denon works well.
What I want to do is sit at my Mac Pro desktop and play songs through iTunes that play not only through my desktop system but through my home theater system (the Denon Receiver). I'm used to clicking on the little Airplay icon and getting to choose Single or Multiple speakers. When I go to System Prefs/Sound, I see my sound card (Presonus Firestudio) AND I see Apple TV and my Denon. So my computer is seeing them both.
Here's what happens. If I choose the Firestudio in System Prefs, it plays as always through my desktop system, but there is no Airplay icon in iTunes. If I choose Denon in System Prefs, iTunes plays music through the Denon AND I get the Airplay icon in iTunes. If i click on the icon and I choose Multiple, I can choose Airplay Device, which is already checked, and Computer. If I click on Computer, the Airplay icon disappears in iTunes, and the music starts playing through my computer's internal speakers, not through my Firestudio sound card, and it stops playing through the Denon.
Why does the Airplay icon not give me an option to play through my sound card and the Denon? Why, in other words, can't I do what I said I wanted to do in the third paragraph, above? Is it possible or is my Mac Pro too old?
Many thanks,
Paul

I found out that the built in firewall interferes with AirPlay (which I know is weird).
Try turning the OS X firewall off using System Settings -> Security. If AirPlay now works, turn on the firewall and add "coreaudio" to the list of exceptions. This worked for me.
Coreaudio is the system driver for audio, by the way.

Early 2009 Mac Pro FireWirenot working with Hitachi/SimpleTech DuoPro drive

So I've got an early 2009 Mac Pro that is loaded with Bootcamp and Vista64. I am looking for an external raid option that works for Windows and didn't have any luck with any eSata PCIe card so I thought I would just use a firewire device. So I picked up a 2TB Duo Pro drive by SimpleTech.
My firewire ports work fine with other devices, but not with this drive and not with either operating system. It works fine though USB, but just doesn't do anything with either firewire 400 or 800.
Any thoughts?

I have an early 2008 iMac and I have the exact same drive by Simpletech, 2TB Duo Pro. It does work on FW800 but connects at 400 UNLESS you power the drive on and plug it in while OS X is up and running, then the connection will be 800. Anyhow, I would make sure you have a good FW cable and also try the FW400 cable that came with it. I bought a FW800 cable and it worked fine so unless the Mac Pro and iMac use different FW hardware, I think it IS compatible.

Can I install SATA6 drive in my early 2009 Mac Pro

I want to add an internal hard drive to my Mac Pro. Most of what I'm finding with the speed I want are now SATA6. My manual says to use SATA III. Can I use a SATA6 drive in my early 2009 Mac Pro?

Can I use a [6Gbits/sec SATA-3] drive in a 2009 Mac-Pro
Executive summary: Most regular commercially-available drives you buy new today will install and work fine. It IS worthwhile to pay extra for a drive with a bigger buffer, but do not pay EXTRA for SATA-3 alone, it is all specsmanship.
If you buy a weird older drive, or you have a really old Mac, it may not work properly. [WD Raptors and VelociRaptors work fine.]
RE: SATA Bus speed:
Rotating drives available today, whatever their SATA spec, can source data off the spinning platters no faster than about 125MBytes/sec.
SATA 3 is rated at 6G bits/sec, which theoretically is about 750 Mega Bytes/sec
SATA 2 is rated at 3G bits/sec, which is theoretically about 375 Mega Bytes/sec
SATA 1 is rated at 1.5G bits/sec, which is theoretically about 187.5 Meg Bytes/sec
None of the SATA Busses is a bottleneck for consumer Rotating drives you can buy today. Trying to speed up the SATA Bus will not provide any real-world performance increases for Rotating Drives.
Even most common SSD drives are not bottlenecked by SATA 2.
If you put the drives on a PCIe card, they are not bottlenecked by the SATA on the card either, as it will typically be SATA 3.
But unless you have the very fastest SATA drives available, you are in no danger of having the existing main SATA 2 Bus in your Mac Pro slow you down. The card is only needed for the fastest SSD drives available today, and will not provide much current speed improvement even in that case.

Early 2009 mac pro, lion won't install

Getting very frustrating... Download and go through all the steps and downloads additional files form online then says that i cannot install and the the lion file is damaged. I have downloaded twice and even went as far as formatting and re installing leopard and updates.
Prior to this, something that could be related. I tried to install boot camp weeks ago and it would not let me saying that my boot rom has to be updated. I have looked all over the support area and have not been able to find a boot rom update.
ANy help?

Hi,
I had the same problem when installing Lion on an early 2009 Mac Pro.
It would keep going to the Lion "Restore" disk window.
The Lion install would never complete.
The 2009 Mac Pro has the latest firmware updates.
Used a clean install of Snow Leopard 10.6.8 with all Apple updates
No 3rd party software installed
12GB Memory
640GB Hard Drive
No PCIe cards
Only mouse and keyboard attached
I finally gave up on trying to get the 2009 Mac Pro to install Lion.
My Solution:
I mounted the same hard disk inside a 2008 Mac Pro (without the latest firmware updates) and ran the Lion install. No problems. Lion was installed.
Pulled the Lion drive and re-installed it in the 2009 Mac Pro.
It works.

Mac Pro does not auto-sleep (manual sleeping if fine!)

I have a small annoyance with my 2009 (Nehalem) Mac Pro I am wondering if someone can help with, or suggest something, please:
The Mac Pro does not auto-sleep; ever. I have played around with the sleep time settings, and enabled or disabled the 'sleep drives' option, but to no avail. Mac Pro will stay on, no matter if I am logged on OR even on the 'log on users' screen.
That said, I can sleep the Mac Pro manually at any time, and without any problems; it stays asleep without a hitch, and wake-up is flawless.
There is nothing in the console log that would tell me why the auto sleep doesn't function. I deleted the sleep plist and re-set, but again, no change.
Any ideas? Not sure what could signal the system to not do auto-sleep?
It's running 10.6.3.
Cheers,
Dan

Exactly the same problems as those described above: forced sleep works (by using the power button or closing the lid) but automatic sleep doesn't (using 'Energy Saving' preferences).
Tried every single piece of advice here and on other posts: reset PRAM/ SMC, verified disc, repaired permissions, deleted the power saving preference files, cleared caches & history, restarted in every conceivable mode... The only things that worked were safe boot and creating a new user account which means it must be a software issue.
Disabled/ removed/ paused/ reinstalled every piece of software I could but to no avail. The most frustrating thing? Having to wait for 5 mins every time I tried something to check whether the damned thing was going to go to sleep.
In the end, and in desperation, I took the advice of Dino X and downloaded PleaseSleep. Success! A genius piece of software. It forces sleep when the Energy Saver preferences cut in but, even if I don't set exceptions, it won't force sleep if there's a DVD playing (for example).
Only had the Mac for a few months and I'll never go back to that other, unmentionable operating system; the Mac's just too good but I'm vexed that I'm having to use third party software to get it to work as it should (and was) - feels like a bit of a Win*s solution to me.

TS3048 My early 2009 Mac Pro does not connect via bluetooth to my sound bar or bluetooth mini speakers. Both my wireless keyboard and mouse have no problems connecting. What do I need to do to connect to external bluetooth devices?

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