Version 5.1.4 versus 6.0.1

Am new to FC-I need to edit a project in Final Cut 5.1.4--I digitized my material in Vers. 5.1.4 but will also be using someone elses footage that was digitized in the most recent version. Am trying to figure out how this will affect my final edit. Also, I could pay to update to the more recent version...but don't know if it would be worth it...Was wondering if anyone had any tips on this?

Without regard to the advantages of working with the newer version of Final Cut, you will be forced to jump through some hoops to prepare the video captured in a higher version than yours.
It can be done... but you will ultimately be better off with FCS2 which will readily accept the material captured on your 5.1 system.

Similar Messages

Version 17.0.1 versus 17.0.0 - What gives?

I'm running Illustrator 17.0.0 but my co-worker has somehow upgraded to 17.0.1. She is able to use the new live corners feature that's available in the newest version of Creative Cloud, but it's not available to me. Anybody know why?

It should be. Although there are so many other problems with 17.0.1 (i.e, pencil tool & path adjustment tool) I would not recommend it. I'd upgrade to 18 (CC 2014) available from Creative Cloud.

Issues between R/3 Version 4.6.C and CRM version 5.0.

Good Morning dear colleagues,
Somebody has any idea where can I find what kind of issues I have to face in order to install / configure R/3 version 4.6.C versus CRM 5.0.???
I really appreciate any help.
Best Regards ... Carlos Lacruz.

Hi
Please check the following components CRM 5.0 supports
Prerequisites
SAP Application Component
Configuration
SAP SEM 3.5
SAP ECC 6.0
SAP NetWeaver 04
SAP APO 3.1
SAP FSCM 3.0
SAP CRM 5.0
Regards

This is a test of the Edit button

I am using Harm's original guide posts to see what's happening with the edit button
How do you set up your editing machine in terms of disks for maximum performance and reliability? (SSD's are left out here.)
This is a question that often arises and all too often one sees that initial settings are really suboptimal. These rules are intended to help you decide how to setup your disks to get the best response times. Of course the only disks in an editing machine must be 7200 RPM types or faster. No GREEN disks at all.
Rule 1: NEVER partition a disk. You may ask why? First of all, it does not increase disk space, it just allocates the space differently. However, the major drawback is that for a partitioned disk the OS must first access a partition table at the beginning of the disk for all accesses to the disk, thus requiring the heads to move to the beginning of the disk, then when it has gotten the partition info move to the designated area on the disk and perform the requested action. This means much more wear-and-tear on the mechanics of the disk, slower speeds and more overhead for the OS, all reducing efficiency.
Rule 2: Avoid using USB drives, since they are the slowest on the market. Do not be tricked by the alleged bandwidth of USB 2.0 advertisements, because is just is not true and remember that the alleged bandwidth is shared by all USB devices, so if you have a USB mouse, keyboard, printer, card reader or whatever, they all share the bandwidth. Stick to SCSI or SATA disks or e-SATA. If needed, you can use Firewire-800 or even Firewire-400 disks, but they are really more suited for backups than for editing.
Rule 3: Use at least 3 different physical disks on an editing machine, one for OS/programs, one for media and one for pagefile/scratch/renders. Even on a notebook with one internal drive it is easy to accomplish this by using a dual e-SATA to Express card connector. That gives you an additional two e-SATA connections for external disks.
Rule 4: Spread disk access across as many disks as you have. If you have OS & programs on disk C:, set your pagefile on another disk. Also set your pagefile to a fixed size, preferably somewhere around 1.5 times your physical memory.
Rule 5: Turn off index search and compression. Both will cause severe performance hits if you leave them on.
Rule 6: If the fill rate on any of your SATA disks goes over 60-70% it is time to get a larger or an additional disk.
Rule 7: Perform regular defrags on all of your disks. For instance, you can schedule this daily during your lunch break.
Rule 8: Keep your disks cool by using adequate airflow by means of additional fans if needed. You can use SMART to monitor disk temperatures, which should be under 35 degrees C at all times and normally hover around 20-24 C, at least in a properly cooled system.
Rule 9: If people want raid, the cheapest way is to use the on-board IHCR or Marvell chip, but it places a relatively high burden on the CPU. The best way is a hardware controller card, preferably based on the IOP348 chip. Areca ARC and ADAPTEC come to mind. 3Ware uses it's own chipset and though not bad, they are not in the same league as the other two. Promise and the like in the budget range are no good and a complete waste of money. Expect to spend around $ 800 plus for a good controller with 12 connectors internally and 4 e-SATA connectors. Important to consider in a purchasing decision is whether the on-board cache memory can be expanded from the regular 256/512 MB to 2 or even 4 GB. Be aware that 2 GB cache can be relatively cheap, but the 4 GB version extremely costly ($ 30 versus $ 300). For safety reasons it is advisable to include a battery backup module (BBM).
Rule 10: If you can easily replace the data in case of disk failure (like rendered files), go ahead and use raid0, but if you want any protection against data loss, use raid 3/5/6/10/30/50. For further protection you can use hot spares, diminishing downtime and performance degradation.
In general when you get a new disk, pay close attention to any rattling noise, do perform regular disk checks, and in case of doubt about reliability, exchange the disk under guarantee. Often a new disk will fail in the first three months. If they survive that period, most of the disks will survive for the next couple of years. If you use a lot of internal disks like I do (17), set staggered spin-up to around 1 second to lessen the burden on the PSU and improve stability.
Hope this helps to answer some basic questions. If not, let me know. Further enhancements and suggestions are welcome
==============================================================================
For AMD setups, disregard the mentions of sockets and the like but the general recommendations still hold.
When you need a new PC for editing purposes, you basically have three choices:
1. Buy an off the shelf system from companies like HP or Dell.
2. Buy a custom built PC from a specialist company, like http://www.guygraphics.com/
3. Build it yourself.
Solution 1 can offer good prices if you stick to their standard configurations and it is easy. But remember that these companies make their profit not on the base system, but on all the options they offer. If you follow their recommendations and upgrade memory, hard disks, or choose a better video card or a faster processor, they steal you blind.
I have nothing against HP or Dell, I have bought systems from them, but usually that was because of a great offer with all the features I needed at the time and applied to notebooks, desktops and servers.
Solution 2 is usually costly, but you get what you pay for. You get the expertise of the seller/builder in selecting the right components, he builds it, installs the software and tests it before delivery. The downside is that often these specialists have their own favorite hardware, like Matrox or Canopus and try to get that into the deal, which increases the price.
Solution 3 is usually the most cost effective and the most flexible, but the largest drawback is that you need to choose all the right components, to be aware of potential incompatibilities and build it yourself. Many see that as a major stumbling block, but really it is not difficult. Another drawback is support. You have to do it yourself.
The first steps to take are twofold:
1. What material do you want to edit and how do you want to deliver the results?
To put it bluntly, if you want to edit material, recorded with a mobile phone, a digital still camera, recorded off the internet from YouTube or similar, recorded from TV, grabbed from the screen, encoded with any unsuitable codec like DivX, XVid, or the like, or ripped from DVD, and that is your major purpose, no need to read this further, just use a consumer application like Windows Movie Maker or Magix for your editing.
This guide is for people who use a VIDEO camera and want to edit that.
So for people with video cameras, what is the main format you use? DV, HDV, DVCPROHD, AVCHD, XDCAMHD, other?
Do you deliver for the web, on BR or DVD or all of those?
2. What is your budget?
Once you have answered these two basic questions for yourself can you start the selection process.
It will require you to read quite a lot about PC's. Good general sources of information are:
http://www.tomshardware.com and http://anandtech.com
As a general rule of thumb you can say that the minimum requirements in terms of CPU, despite what Adobe mentions as minimum requirements, are:
1. For DV: Core 2 Duo
2. For AVCHD: i7 with HT or dual Xeon's 55xx
3. For other HD formats: Core 2 Quad
It generally does not pay to get the fastest CPU, unless you have an unlimited budget. Their price/performance is usually not the best and you will find a step down gives you nearly the same performance at a much lower price. And there is always overclocking, but I'll come back to that later. To give an example, the Core 2 Extreme QX6850 is currently more than 4 times as expensive as the Core 2 Quad Q9550, but does not deliver any noteworthy performance improvement. And both are quad cores.
To help you narrow down your choices, it is worthwhile to have a look at these charts:
http://www.tomshardware.com/charts/desptop-cpu-charts-q3-2008/Cinema-4D-Release- 10,835.html
Likely a new version for Q1-2009 will come out shortly.
In deciding on your shortlist, keep in mind that for video editing FSB speed and cache size are very important. First look at FSB speed (the higher the better, so if you have the choice between 1066 or 1333 FSB, always choose the higher one if it fits your budget). Next narrow down your choices by selecting the CPU with the largest cache. 6 MB L3 cache is better than 3 MB.
Let's assume that after studying all these sites and reading a lot about CPU's, you have made a shortlist of possible candidates, that fit the minimum requirements indicated above, you have to identify what socket the CPU uses. Is it a 775 pin socket (Core2), a 1366 pin (i7 or Xeon 55xx) or a 771 Xeon 54xx or lower (old generation) socket. This will largely determine your choice of motherboard and memory type you need and as a consequence the case and cooling you need.
In general the chipset on a 775 mobo uses DDR2, dual channel memory, which is widely available and relatively cheap. On a 771 mobo the memory used is FBDIMM (fully buffered DDR2) with ECC (error correction) which is much harder to get and significantly more expensive. On a 1366 mobo the memory is triple channel DDR3 which is faster than DDR2 but also more expensive. For Xeon 55xx based boards memory used is FBDIMM's triple channel with ECC, which is hard to find and costly.
The main difference between DDR2 and DDR3 is that dual channel requires two populated memory banks for dual channel operation, whereas triple channel DDR3 requires three banks populated. That is the reason that mobo's with DDR2 usually come with 4 or 8 GB RAM and DDR3 mobo's with 6 or 12 GB RAM. DDR3 is faster (at the same specs) than DDR2. To complicate matters further, most 775 mobo's offer 4 memory slots, 1366 mobo's usually offer 6 memory slots and 1366 dual socket Xeon boards usually offer 12 memory slots.
I see you are losing interest, this is getting way too complicated. Well, I'm sorry but if you want to make an informed decision on what your next system should be, you need to understand these basics or buy a Dell or HP or even Alienware (a Dell subsidiary). And I continue to bore you with these technicalities in order to help you make a good purchasing decision.
When selecting a mobo for the CPU you have selected, read tests on TomsHardware or AnandTech to help you find the good performers that have the right set of features for your job. Good brands are ASUS, Abit, Gigabyte and MSI for single socket use, for dual socket the best one to check out is SuperMicro or possibly Tyan.
Pay attention to the features a board offers, like dual NIC's (network interface controller), dual firewire, number of SATA ports, chipset used for the SATA controller, IHCR and/or Marvell raid capability, on board sound, etcetera. Pay special attention to the board layout, where the PCI-e slots are located in relation to PCI slots. I have once built a machine where I knew I had to use a PCI firewire board and due to the location of the PCI-e slot and the size of the video card (dual slot size) the PCI slot was no longer accessible. It caused me quite some headaches to find a PCI-x firewire replacement board, because I had forgotten to have a close look at the mobo layout. Just a warning, so you don't fall into the same trap I did.
Ok, we have now decided on the CPU and the mobo. Let's have a look at memory.
General rule: Get as much as you can and don't spend it on higher clock capable versions! You will gain more from slower memory in large quantities, than from faster but less memory, even with 32 bit apps like CS4. One of the side effects of more memory is less use of a pagefile, which is far slower than RAM, so even if the application can not access more than 4 GB, your pagefile use will be much lower with more memory installed.
Memory is offered with various ratings. Often in marketing jargon these are dubbed as PC3-8500 or PC3-10600 or PC3-12800 up to 16000. This is all hype. The price tag increases significantly with higher numbers but the performance gain is negligent, in the order of 1 or 2 %. Your best bet is to get memory that is suitable for the FSB speed you have. If you have a FSB of 1333, use memory for 1333 FSB (10600), if you have a FSB of 1066, get 1066 capable memory (8500), it is a complete waste of money to get 1600 capable memory if your FSB does not support it. What is important however is to get the best timings you can find.
The lower the CAS latency, the better. Also look at tRAS (ROW-ACTIVE-TIME) results. These timing figures may give you better performance than spending money on higher clocked memory. On my system I have 6-6-6-18 timings for memory (even when overclocked by 35% and without increasing the voltage), which gives far better results than 9-9-9-27 timings. BTW, timings are usually measured in CAS, RAS-to-CAS, tRP and tRAS sequence. The lower these numbers, the better it is.
In general get at least 4 GB on a 775 or 6 GB on a 1366 mobo, but you may benefit from doubling these figures if you are multitasking, for instance having PR, AE and EN open for dynamic linking, or changing to PS for text or still manipulation.
Next: Storage. I point you to a previous guide I made which gives you the basics about disk setup:
http://forums.adobe.com/thread/427772
Next cases. I suggest to only look at big towers or server towers, depending on the mobo of your choice. For dual CPU sockets a server tower is almost always a must, decause of the use of e-ATX size mobo's and the requirement for specialized cooling, often using an air duct, which is only available in server cases. SuperMicro is a prime supplier and my personal favorite in terms of build quality, expansion capabilities and reliability. Be aware however that the power supply in those cases are pretty noisy. For single CPU solutions there are many choices, often based on looks. What is much more important however is the expansion room and the airflow in those cases. You don't want to pimp your editing machine with LED illuminated fans, transparent sides and the like. It needs to be functional. Antec, CoolerMaster, Lian Li and ThermalTake are common brands and worth having a look at. Looking at smaller cases with a sexy look will often lead to disappointment in the future, since they often lack the capability to add additional disk drives or burners internally or get so full with equipment, that cooling is going to be a real problem. Do take into consideration that you may need 1 or 2 5.25" slots for burners.
Warning: COOLING is essential for reliability and longevity of your system. We'll get to that in a minute.
If you work long form projects, have a multitude of projects or other situations that may require a large number of disks in use or for backup, it is worth to have a look at cases that offer SAS backplanes and (hot-)swappable disk cages. Often on various sites you may find entries to case modding, where you can find other disk cages that allow you to use four 3.5" disks in the space for two 5.25" slots. In my case I had 6 3.5" slots as is was delivered. I have modded my case to now contain 14 3.5" disks just on the front with room for another disk. To avoid disappointment in the future and a lot of work of rebuilding your PC into a new chassis, plan ahead for the storage requirements you may have in the next years. If you start out with 4
disks now, but expect to use 8 next year, be sure that they fit in, even if it requires different disk cages. Make sure that there is adequate cooling for the disks in the disk cages, preferably with 80 or 120 mm fans in front of the disks and use a replacable dust filter.
By this stage we have found the CPU, mobo, memory, hard disks and case. Time to have a look at video cards.
General: CS4 will not significantly benefit from a high end video card. The marketing hype wants us to believe that the nVidia
Quadro CX will give enormous benefits for encoding H.264, but that is just what it is: "Hype".
For general NLE work you are better served with more CPU power, more memory and more hard disks and possibly a better raid controller with more cache than with a video card that costs you at least $ 1 K extra in comparison to very good cards. Better spend the money where you benefit from it. SLI or CrossFire is a complete waste of money and only applies to gamers. Everybody serious about video editing will NEVER install a game on his machine so forget about those things.
If you make sure that you have at least 512 MB on a decent modern video card, you will be hard pressed to see significant differences in performance. ATI Radeon 4xxx and nVidia GT 2xx series are all well up to the task for editing. If you use GPU intensive plug-ins like Colorista or Magic Bullet you may be wise to choose for the more powerful versions of these cards, since these plug-ins are very demanding when rendering.
These video cards get very hot in practice and especially under load. If your case is very full or you have another card in the next PCI-e slot, reducing airflow to the video card, you may consider exchanging the stock cooler on the video card by a special cooler like the Accelero Twin Turbo from Arctic Cooling to keep temperatures in hand.
Now go to http://extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jsp and use the PSU calculator to roughly decide what your power supply needs to deliver in terms of Wattage. I strongly suggest to get the PRO version (it is cheap!) but it saves you from fatal mistakes. A PSU (power supply unit) is one of the most overlooked and neglected components in a PC and very often the cause for all kinds of mysterious faults, hangs, BSOD's, restarts etcetera. Let me tell what nearly happened to me when building a new PC. I had checked the power supply requirements, checked reviews online and found one PSU that appealed to me, based on the reviews. It was a Zalman 1000 W. Great, looks good and in stock at an attractive price. I then got the pro version and rechecked, with the extra info on the various rails. The Zalman did not have enough power on the 5V rails that I needed. So I had to change the PSU, otherwise I would have been in for a lot of strange, unexplainable and foreall unexpected hangs, restarts and the like, apart from the reduced life expectancy of the PSU.
Now, we're finally getting somewhere. Only cooling is left, then all the hardware components have been chosen.
CPU cooling: Again check sites like AnandTech. They regularly perform extensive tests on CPU coolers. Be aware that test results differ widely from site to site, but some of the names to consider are Noctua, Scythe and Thermaltake. It is best to choose a vertical heatsink cooler with 'push-pull' configuration, meaning one fan in front to push the cooling air in to the heatsink and the other fan at the rear to pull out the air. That generally delivers the best cooling performance. These things can be quite heavy so they are not suggested for LAN parties. Install it and leave your PC where it is, otherwise the weight may damage your mobo. When installing the heatsink be very sparing in applying cooling paste (Arctic silver is a good
suggestion).
If you have followed my advise in getting a big tower you have room for additional fans in the case. There may not always be holes to attach screws for mounting, but what also works quite effectively is using heavy duty double sided tape to attach fans to a side, on the PSU (if it is mounted at the bottom of the case). Scythe has some very good fans that give a large airflow at reasonable RPM's and low sound levels.
Once you have built your system you need to decide what OS to use. 32 or 64 bit? The point seems moot now. 64 bit Vista is your best option currently. No driver problems anymore, somewhat decent stability and the use of all your installed memory. Windows 7 is only a RC currently, so I would not advise that on a production machine, but on another machine I would definitely try it. It is as stable as Vista is now, but drivers are still somewhat lacking. XP is out, despite the best stability on a clean and mean system, due to the 32 bit nature.
After installing the OS, first check your device manager. Make sure that all your devices are working and there are no warnings. Then update Windows, drivers and other system utilities. Then check your hardware, using CPU-Z and HWMonitor, check the cooling and voltages. Your disks should be below 35 C at all times. Then tune your Bios. Once you have completed these steps, proceed with installing your software. Start with essential system tools like Process Explorer, Beyond Compare, etc. and then continue with tuning Windows, removing sh*t you never use on an editing machine, like MSN or Games, setting unneeded services to manual, disabling Windows Defender and installing Symantec Endpoint protection if you have it, and only then start installing CS4 and related programs.
When all is well, you may consider to start overclocking. TomsHardware and AnandTech have published several articles on how to do that. If you do it right you will not lose stability and may get significant performance gains. It does require more attention to the temperatures in your case.
When I recently built a new system, my first PassMark (a common benchmark testing program) score was around 3600. After finetuning the system, optimizing Windows and overclocking, I got a PassMark score of 4733.8, which even after a month is still number two in the worldwide ranking.
For my system specs, look below, maybe you can derive some ideas from it for your next configuration:
http://www.millcon.nl/Harm/PCResults.jpg
I hope this has been informative and that you can profit from my remarks.
I'm sorry this was so long and taxed your patience to the extreme.
Further suggestions and enhancements are welcome.
================================================================================
Yes, I'm going to tax your patience again. This is a guide to setup Vista 64 for NLE work, well it actually applies to any kind of work, but NLE machines may profit more than an Office/MSN machine. One caveat: What I suggest here is a lean and mean machine that is mainly dedicated to NLE work.
First: It is always best to start with a clean install and a complete reformat of the disk. That will ensure that your registry is clean and leaves no leftovers from a previous install. Do not partition the drive, format the whole disk as one.
After installation has completed, first select Control Panel and Personalize. Select Change Desktop icons and ensure that at least Computer is selected. You can choose other icons as well if you want to. I have all 5 selected.
Next check Device Manager (right click This Computer, select Properties and then Device Manager) that you have no problems with drivers for any of your hardware. If there are any yellow exclamation symbols, solve these issues first by having Vista search for drivers and if it comes back with the message that no drivers could be found, get the latest 64 bit driver from the internet for this device.
Once Device Manager has no more problems, go to Windows update and install all critical updates. Nothing more at this moment. After installation and rebooting, again check Device Manager for problems. There should be none. Otherwise get on the internet again and reinstall the latest Vista 64 drivers. Next right chick This Computer and select Manage and go to Event Viewer. Open the Windows Logs and click on System. Scroll through the events and check out any errors or warnings you see. Search the Microsoft Technet for solutions. This is the link to the very informative Technet site to help you solve any issues you may have: Microsoft Technet
Next go to Control Panel, select Programs and Features and select turn Windows features on or off. You may not need anymore than these Windows Features and possibly less, for instance if you don't use a network printer. Also this may be a good moment to turn off User Account Control via Control Panel/Security Settings.
Next go to Vista Services and use the instructions and the table shown to modify the services, so only those are started that are needed in your situation. Anything not needed will only increase boot time and will consume resources, placing a higher overhead on the system than needed.
After rebooting, update all your drivers if you have not already done so. For instance, if you have an ATI card, download the latest drivers, but remember you can do without the Catalyst Control Center. Their drivers are typically denoted by y.m (year, month) so currently the latest is version 9.5
Now go to Control Panel, System and select Advanced system settings, select Visual Effects and select Adjust for best performance, apply and then select the Advanced tab, click on Performance settings, select the Advanced tab, Select Adjust for best performance of programs and then change the Virtual memory. Setup your pagefile with a custom size with equal numbers for Initial and Maximum size on another drive than your C disk and set the C drive to No paging file. If you have read my Storage rules for an editing rig guide, you know you need a fixed size of around 1 to 1.5 times installed memory, unless you have lots of RAM, then you can easily go lower.
Reboot and right click on This Computer, select Manage and select Disk Management. Select drive C, right click Properties and make sure that Index this drive for faster searching and Compress this drive to save disk space are both turned off. Click Disk Cleanup and clean what can be deleted. Repeat these steps for all of your drives. Next go to the Tools tab and select Defragment Now and defrag all drives. While you are at the Disk Defragment window, setup a daily defragging schedule, for instance during your lunch break. That will keep your disks optimized.
This will make sure that the space previously occupied by the pagefile on the C drive is reclaimed and that the new pagefile on another drive is not fragmented and at the very beginning of the drive in the fastest location (at least if the disk was newly formatted and not used).
If you haven't done so yet, completely turn off the Sidebar and do not have it autostart.
No application has been installed yet, so it is time to start with some essential utilities.
The first thing I do is turning off Windows Defender and install Symantec Endpoint Protection.
Next I install Ccleaner. A very handy freeware tool to keep your system and the registry clean and to remove or disable registry based auto startup programs.
The next one to install is the Sysinternals Suite and most notably Process Explorer, Process Monitor and Autoruns. Depending on your use, other utilities in the Suite may be nice to install as well. Installation is done by extracting the relevant files to the C:\Windows directory. Run Process Explorer once and in the Options menu select Replace Task Manager.
Other utilities I install (but of course you may have different favorites) are Beyond Compare, HWMonitor, SpeedFan, SnagIt and 1ClickPCFix
You are now ready to install your regular software. After installation, registration and activation of all your software use Ccleaner, Tools to check for unnecessary Startup entries in the registry. Disable or remove them. Next check your registry by scanning for issues and fix selected issues. Defragment all your disks again and make a restore point.
If you want to get rid of the ridiculously large shortcut arrow at this moment, go to this site: Remove Shortcut Arrow and follow Method 1.
Reboot and you are ready to go with a hopefully much faster and efficient Vista machine.
If you encounter difficulties and have problems that want to ask about on the forum, be prepared to include a screenshot from Process Explorer and either HWMonitor or Speedfan and a link to DXDIAG.txt
Thanks for your patience and I hope you have found some tips and tricks to improve performance.

In general theory, one now has the Edit button for their posts, until someone/anyone Replies to it. I've had Edit available for weeks, as opposed to the old forum's ~ 30 mins.
That, however, is in theory. I've posted, and immediately seen something that needed editing, only to find NO Replies, yet the Edit button is no longer available, only seconds later. Still, in that same thread, I'd have the Edit button from older posts, to which there had also been no Replies even after several days/weeks. Found one that had to be over a month old, and Edit was still there.
Do not know the why/how of this behavior. At first, I thought that maybe there WAS a Reply, that "ate" my Edit button, but had not Refreshed on my screen. Refresh still showed no Replies, just no Edit either. In those cases, I just Reply and mention the [Edit].
Also, it seems that the buttons get very scrambled at times, and Refresh does not always clear that up. I end up clicking where I "think" the right button should be and hope for the best. Seems that when the buttons do bunch up they can appear at random around the page, often three atop one another, and maybe one way the heck out in left-field.
While I'm on a role, it would be nice to be able to switch between Flattened and Threaded Views on the fly. Each has a use, and having to go to Options and then come back down to the thread is a very slow process. Jive is probably incapable of this, but I can dream.
Hunt

How to install Camera Raw?

I've just finished building a PC (Win7 Pro 64 bit) and have many Adobe products running. I've just tried to download and install Camera Raw. The file "camera Raw 4_6.zip" downloads. But now what? I can execute it and get the file "Camera Raw.8bi". I can also unzip it and get the same file. What is the next step? None of the Adobe install help files address the issue apparently.

You should be able to go to Help>Updates in photoshop or photoshop elements 12 and that should get you all the available updates including the newest camera raw 8.5
(camera raw 4.6 is way out of date)
For lightroom 5 it depends on which version you have (perpetual versus creative cloud subscription)
For subscription open the creative cloud application and lightroom 5.5 should be listed as an update.
Is that photoshop 6 or photoshop cs6?

Can multiple computers (e.g. my desktop & laptop) use the same Lightroom catalogue?

I'm debating between the Cloud version of Lightroom 5 versus a regular upgrade. If I go to the Cloud, will my desktop and laptop be able to access and seamlessly work off the same LR catalogue? I'd be grateful for a speedy answer since I'm interesting in the rapidly expiring Photography offer. Thanks!

Yes, you can have as many devices - iPhones, iPods, iPads - as you like using the same iTunes account.

MATLAB and LabVIEW Communication Optimal Performance

I have tried my own code, searched through forums and examples to try and figure out best method to communicate between LabVIEW and MATLAB. Most of the information I found was over a year old and I was wondering if there was a better current solution. My goal is to work in LabVIEW to collect the data, process in MATLAB and return the results to LabVIEW. I have encountered some difficulty in my search and before I delve even further in to one in particular, I was wondering if anybody had an optimal solution with this communication protocol or solutions to my errors encountered thus far.
I have looked at the following methods.
1)TCP/IP and a very good example found here: http://www.mathworks.com/matlabcentral/fileexchange/11802-matlab-tcp-ip-code-example
When I try to adjust even the example and communicate for my own purposes I get the following errors
Error 63 if MATLAB server not running
Error 66 occurs if the TCP/IP connection is closed by the peer. In this case, Windows notices that no data is returned within a reasonable time, and it closes the TCP/IP connection. When LabVIEW attempts to communicate after Windows closes the connection, error 66 is the result.
However, the example itself works perfectly and does not get these errors
2)Math Script Node, works but the post below states that MATLAB Node is faster.
"computing fft of a 1024x1024 matrix ten times (attached code). Result is that Matlab node version takes 0.5s versus 1.6s for Mathscript node version."
http://forums.ni.com/t5/LabVIEW/Why-are-mathscript-performances-much-below-matlab-s/m-p/2369760/high...
3) MATLAB Node, which states it uses ActiveX Technology seemingly works well, but loses time for data transfer.
4) Trying to use the ActiveX functions or if there is other Automation potential.
5)Other solutions that I have not found that might be better suited.
Thank you for any help or suggestions in advance.

Barp and Mikeporter,
Thank you for your assistance:
The reason I need to do the processing in matlab is as you mentioned the processing script is coming from another person who has already developed it in matlab. I almost have to treat it as a black box.
The TCP/IP method was interesting is that none of the errors show up when I run the example but if I try to modify it in a new VI I get the errors.
I have attached a simple program that just has a basic butterworth low pass filter I am trying to confirm if it works in the Matlab node. I have done other simple codes which work, and this one does not seem the implement the appropriate filter. The LabVIEW signal and LabVIEW filter seem to work at the default values (but not if I change sampling rate) for the Simulation of signal, Matlab signal and Matlab filter work, but the Labview signal processed in Matlab is not working...
Ideally it would be bandpass filtered (0.1-30) at sampling rate of 256 Hz and further processed from there, but I can't even seem to get low pass to work in the matlab to labview communication.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Once I have that working I will have more of an idea of the constraints of the actual processing Matlab Code I will be using.
Thank you again.
-cj18
Attachments:
labview_matlab_filter.vi ‏70 KB

Storage rules for an editing rig. Some basics.

How do you set up your editing machine in terms of disks for maximum performance and reliability? (SSD's are left out here.)
This is a question that often arises and all too often one sees that initial settings are really suboptimal. These rules are intended to help you decide how to setup your disks to get the best response times. Of course the only disks in an editing machine must be 7200 RPM types or faster. No GREEN disks at all.
Rule 1: NEVER partition a disk. You may ask why? First of all, it does not increase disk space, it just allocates the space differently. However, the major drawback is that for a partitioned disk the OS must first access a partition table at the beginning of the disk for all accesses to the disk, thus requiring the heads to move to the beginning of the disk, then when it has gotten the partition info move to the designated area on the disk and perform the requested action. This means much more wear-and-tear on the mechanics of the disk, slower speeds and more overhead for the OS, all reducing efficiency.
Rule 2: Avoid using USB drives, since they are the slowest on the market. Do not be tricked by the alleged bandwidth of USB 2.0 advertisements, because is just is not true and remember that the alleged bandwidth is shared by all USB devices, so if you have a USB mouse, keyboard, printer, card reader or whatever, they all share the bandwidth. Stick to SCSI or SATA disks or e-SATA. If needed, you can use Firewire-800 or even Firewire-400 disks, but they are really more suited for backups than for editing.
Rule 3: Use at least 3 different physical disks on an editing machine, one for OS/programs, one for media and one for pagefile/scratch/renders. Even on a notebook with one internal drive it is easy to accomplish this by using a dual e-SATA to Express card connector. That gives you an additional two e-SATA connections for external disks.
Rule 4: Spread disk access across as many disks as you have. If you have OS & programs on disk C:, set your pagefile on another disk. Also set your pagefile to a fixed size, preferably somewhere around 1.5 times your physical memory.
Rule 5: Turn off index search and compression. Both will cause severe performance hits if you leave them on.
Rule 6: If the fill rate on any of your SATA disks goes over 60-70% it is time to get a larger or an additional disk.
Rule 7: Perform regular defrags on all of your disks. For instance, you can schedule this daily during your lunch break.
Rule 8: Keep your disks cool by using adequate airflow by means of additional fans if needed. You can use SMART to monitor disk temperatures, which should be under 35 degrees C at all times and normally hover around 20-24 C, at least in a properly cooled system.
Rule 9: If people want raid, the cheapest way is to use the on-board IHCR or Marvell chip, but it places a relatively high burden on the CPU. The best way is a hardware controller card, preferably based on the IOP348 chip. Areca ARC and ADAPTEC come to mind. 3Ware uses it's own chipset and though not bad, they are not in the same league as the other two. Promise and the like in the budget range are no good and a complete waste of money. Expect to spend around $ 800 plus for a good controller with 12 connectors internally and 4 e-SATA connectors. Important to consider in a purchasing decision is whether the on-board cache memory can be expanded from the regular 256/512 MB to 2 or even 4 GB. Be aware that 2 GB cache can be relatively cheap, but the 4 GB version extremely costly ($ 30 versus $ 300). For safety reasons it is advisable to include a battery backup module (BBM).
Rule 10: If you can easily replace the data in case of disk failure (like rendered files), go ahead and use raid0, but if you want any protection against data loss, use raid 3/5/6/10/30/50. For further protection you can use hot spares, diminishing downtime and performance degradation.
In general when you get a new disk, pay close attention to any rattling noise, do perform regular disk checks, and in case of doubt about reliability, exchange the disk under guarantee. Often a new disk will fail in the first three months. If they survive that period, most of the disks will survive for the next couple of years. If you use a lot of internal disks like I do (17), set staggered spin-up to around 1 second to lessen the burden on the PSU and improve stability.
Hope this helps to answer some basic questions. If not, let me know. Further enhancements and suggestions are welcome.

...well, it is a northern D - they call us often "Fischköpfe" because we love to eat fish here in Hamburg!
I just have summarized a bit the storage configuration I am thinking of
RAID Type
Objective
System requirements
RAID level
Offline Storage
store a whole video project (1h of 4k material requires about 128 GB)
needs to be highly reliable (redundancy is a must);
doesn't need to be extremely fast;
discs can be cheap because they don't have a high burden (just upload & download) to the video RAID.
10
Video RAID
store material for a day work
fast and reliable
10
Installation RAID
just to install Windows XP with CS4 Master Collection
redundant but speed isn't critical here
1
Working RAID
for page-file/scratch/renders
as fast as possible
disc failure isn't a big problem
0
In order to realize this, I am thinking of the following configuration
RAID Type
number of discs
Type
GB/disc
tot. storage [GB]
usable storage [GB]
cost [€]
Offline Storage
8
SATA
1500
6000
4800
900
Video RAID
6
SCSI/SAS
300
900
720
2100
Installation RAID
2
SCSI/SAS
36
36
30
200
Working RAID
4
SCSI/SAS
147
580
470
1000
Here are my assumptions and constraints:
I only have 6 bays for the Installation - and working RAID;
For the video RAID I also would like to reuse an enclosure, which just has 6 bays;
I would need to buy a NAS enclosure - so here I am open minded and just assumed 8 bays;
the usable storrage I estimated as 80% of the total storage;
discs, which are used heavily should be SCSI or SAS - I am thinking of the Cheetah 15K
Looking into the cost associated, I hit 4000€ easily just for discs. Ok, I can reuse some discs and enclosures, which I have here - but since I need to purchase the NAS enclosure (with 8 bays), which will also cost 1000€ additional, I will use 25% of my foreseen budget for storage.

Opening a Tab or Comma Sep Doc in Pages 9 vs. Pages 10

I just had an interesting, and frustrating, experience. Using FilemakerPro, I Exported a file, with the goal of Opening that file in Pages. I used Filemaker to Sort a large document, numerically and alphabetically. My goal was to Open or Import that file using Pages 10, however Pages could not Open the file. I tried changing from Tab to Comma to Mac to MS to other Translations, none of which would open in Pages 10.
Luckily, when I upgraded, I kept Pages 9, which I launched, and tried to open the Exported Filemaker File. It opened perfectly. So now I saved that file, and opened it with Pages 10. The goal is accomplished.
I've read numerous compliants about things that were dropped in Pages 10. The ability to open a Tab or CVS file in Pages 10 is frustrating for those moments when you need that ability. To have to go back, open an older version of an Application, and use it as a "Translator" doesn't seem like we've made progress with our new version.
I actually like the new version with the Format editing instead of Inspector. It took a little getting used to, but now it's great. There are a few things that could be done to make the Format even more friendly, as sometimes I'm searching for where to find the control for what I'm trrying to change, as it's not under the Format Tab I would expect to find that parameter, but it's still a better solution than Inspector.
Hopefully, someone at Apple monitors this Forum and will fix this aspect of the new Pages 10. To have to open an older version to open a file is not progressing forward. Open or Import should offer every Ext file format, to give us the flexibility we need, and not frustrate the end-user or have to use a Go Around like I just did.   Thanks and I hope this is helpful!
Signed - avid Apple devotee.... :-)

You're absolutely right! I 'm referring to Pages ’09 version. 4.3, versus Pages version 5.01
I'm so used to thinking Pages '09, was updated to Pages 10, along with OSX.   Thank you for the correction!
The NEW Pages won't open the CSV or TAB files, yet the older Pages '09 will. Once I had the file open with the older pages, I did a Select All, Copy, and Pasted into New Pages, where I am working on the document.
That's like wanting to watch a movie we purchased on DVD, but we upgraded to Blu-Ray which can't read DVDs. So we have to pull out our old DVD player, to play the DVD, and Copy it onto our new Blu-Ray system (if we could do that and not deal with copy right infrignement since we purchased the original movie, but that's another story all together.) Our new Blu-Ray has all the latest bells and whistles, but no longer player our collection of movies we purchased over the years.
Luckily, the video industry created new Blu-Ray players that will play our old DVDs. Now we need Apple to make sure the new Pages has all the wonderful features we came to love with Pages '09, and be able to read various file formats as well.
Sorry - off my soap box as I know lots of others have voiced their frustration with the new application updates. Offering the upgrades for free was awesome! Just make sure we're moving forward towards incredible new goals, not backwards...

Problems with displaying text from gtk+-2.0 with Cairo

I've got a 64-bit app that uses gtk+-2.0 (2.8.17 with Cairo). I had to build my own libraries since the gtk+-2.0 libraries Solaris 10 ships with is 32-bit only (and does not contain Cairo support). The app is statically linked so that our customers don't have to do any more than just install the app.
I've got a customer who's using a Sun Ray 2fs to run our app from a Sun Ray server. The problem is that none of the text in the UI is readable (including the menubar). He sent a screenshot and I can tell it's rendering the glyphs, just not correctly. The best way of describing the text rendering problem is to take a bitmap of antialised text drawn with a black pen color. Now remove all non solid black pixels. You only see pieces of the glyphs (typically, just the vertical and horizontal parts).
We don't have a Sun Ray client to test with but for testing purposes, I installed our app on freshly built Solaris 10 (5/09) and Open Solaris systems with no modifications to the virgin systems. I could run our app on both Solaris systems and display the app on a remote X display just fine. I asked the customer to try a real X display and he ran X-Win32 on a Windows XP guest using VirtualBox on the Sun Ray server and our app appeared just fine on his Sun Ray client. I told him if our app displays just fine on a real X display, then the problem must be with the Sun Ray server.
Has anyone encountered this problem? I'm going to try building the latest gtk+-2.0 libraries but I'm not convinced it's going to do any good. I don't think it's a Fontconfig configuration problem because our app worked out of the box on freshly installed systems (unless perhaps Sun has made changes to /etc/fonts/fonts.conf since the version on his system versus ours).
PS. We actually need the Cairo graphics support. It just happens that the version of Pango that's in 2.8 (and all versions of gtk+-2.0 since) also uses it for text rendering in the widgets.

Garrett Cobarr wrote:
> I have been attempting to import text from Illustrator
CS2 into Flash 8. I
> would like to retain the layers if possible.
>
> I am having many different problems as I have
experiemented at the AI side.
> One is having the text come in with the outline offset
and no longer alligned.
> When I drag and drop, the outline completly dissappers.
The text when it does
> come in is converted to a png and longer has the layers
seperated.
>
> I am also getting a message in the report window, on
some of my tries, that it
> is an improper PDF.
>
> The bottom line question is: What is the recommended
method of importing text
> from AI CS 2?
You have to remember that both programs are totally different
animals and simply
some of the option used by you in AI won't be working or
can't be translated into
flash's environment. You will never get editable content,
just an image.
Export to SWF from AI and import that SWF to flash. Should be
as close as possible
to original file tho I can't assure your layers will
maintain.
Best Regards
Urami
!!!!!!! Merry Christmas !!!!!!!
<urami>
If you want to mail me - DO NOT LAUGH AT MY ADDRESS
</urami>

OSX 10.6.8 best ever

Im a long time user of Apple I want to buy new MBP but can't stand what Apple has done to OSX, I want to downgrade my new MBP to snow leopard [10.6.8] can this be done?

No, for garbage decisions by users who find they just can't move on. My guess is you have no idea what changes have occurred in the current version of OS X versus the status quo of Snow Leopard.

Trouble with my Adobe Web Premium license

Hello,
I asked for assistance a couple of weeks ago, and got an answer that 1/2 way solved my problem. So I'm looking for help to get me all the way there.
For background, my original issue was:
I recently purchased a new Macbook Air. My other computer is a Mac Mini - and I have a purchased (and licensed) version of Adobe Web Premium 5.5 on that machine. I want to put this software on my new laptop - which does not have a CD/DVD drive.
I went to my Adobe account to view order history - but there's nothing there. In My Products, my license shows up - but I can't figure out how to download it to my laptop.
I got an answer - and was able to get the software installed on my laptop (via the 30-day trial download). But it's just a 30-day trial.
SO HERE'S WHAT I STILL NEED HELP WITH:
When I tried entering my serial number after downloading, I received a message that the serial number was not valid. I entered the serial number in my Adobe account (viewing "My Products").
Any idea how I get my software registered on my new laptop? I think I should be able to have my software registered on both my home machine and my laptop, is that correct?
Thanks!
I appreciate any help I can get with this.
Matt

Matt,
This seems to be a bit confusing as a lot of software versions and softwares (suites versus individual products) are involved here. Lets simplify this.
As per your account registration details you've registered the serial number for Web Premium CS5 (this is the only serial number regisetered on your account) and not Web Premium CS 5.5.
Also per the link you mentioned above you've installed CS5.5, however you mentioned you've downloaded CS5. This is most probably why you're getting the serial number error.
Uninstall CS5.5 from your system, download CS5 from here and then try to install it.
Thanks
Nikhil

Find out items where content is updated

I am writing a Whats new portlet. I am using wwsbr_all_items.updatedate to determine items which were updated.
I want to make a distinction between when the user actually loads a new version of the item versus the user just updating some metadata like : display name, description.
I want to only display those items where the content has changed.
We cannot use the new icon for this functionality since we have some company specific business logic.
Any help will be appreciated.
Harish

hi harish,
two ideas i have here:
1. instead of writing a new portlet you could use the custom search portlet with its auto-query functionality and search for items that have been updated in the last x days - this automatically renderes the search results in place without displaying any search form mask.
2. if you are writing your own portlet and you to check if the content (=file) of the item changed and not only the meta data this gets more tricky. you can first check the view wwsbr_all_items to check all the items that have been updated on a page. for the ones that have been updated (updatedate column) go to the view wwdoc_document and check the column that matches the filename column if it has been updated as well. if this has been updated as well you know that the file physically changed and you can pick this item to be displayed in your portlet.
regards,
christian

How do I resize and export photos in Aperture without them becoming pixelateded

I'm having trouble resizing my photos and exporting them without the end result being an overly pixelated photo. This happens when I am resizing my photos to a 5 by 7 size.

Amanda,
Welcome to the user-supported Aperture discussion group.
In Aperture, you don't resize to a "print" size. You export to a specific pixel size.
So, what size are you actually exporting it as?
I believe both Terence and I suspect that you have a very low-res picture and you are telling Aperture to make it have more pixels. If you are intending to print the photos, there is really no difference in sending the original, low-res version to the printer versus having Aperture add pixels to your photo. Something, somewhere, will have to add pixels.
nathan

Tell me if my logic is right

I am new to Lightroom so make lots of adjustments to see how to do them and what effect they have. In order to keep my history and catalog manageable, I hit on the idea of using a virtural copy to play with for learning, then delete it. Is this good logic?
If I stumble on a good adjustment combo, can I then edit my virtural copy in Photoshop? Or do I need to apply those settings with copy / paste to the master image and edit that in Photoshop?
Thanks
John

One of the main reasons to use virtual copies is to have different developments of the same image for different purposes. Learning is certainly one reason. Pehaps you want a black and white, or a different version for your blog versus a printed photo album.
Yes, virtual copies can be sent directly to an external editor like Photoshop. No need to copy settings anywhere.

Version 5.1.4 versus 6.0.1

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