Vinyl records into my imac

I would like to know if anyone could tell me the easy way to get my old vinly records into my computer?

I ran a cable from the RCAs on my turntable to the mic input of my iMac, and imported the vinyl using Audacity. It's a free software that is pretty intuitive and has some basic features like removing pops.
It was a long process for me - just over 500 45s, equal to more than 1,000 tracks. I cleaned the records first, then streamed them in one by one, saving each 45 (side A and B) as an Audacity file. After all were imported, I moved to Phase 2: exporting the Audacity files to 320kbps mp3 tracks.
I would recommend you import a few, then export them, just to test the process. I ended up having to re-import about half because I had streamed them in at a high volume and the audio was peaking out. It's probably better to import them at a lower volume, as you can always boost it up in Audacity.
Oh, and some other advice... KEEP YOUR VINYL!!

Similar Messages

  • Clear Instructions: import Vinyl records into iTunes

    I have been researching for some weeks. Amazing,no succinct article or info on HOW to use a Mac and import music from Vinyl records into iTunes. ( Adam Engst, where is a Tidbits eBook when I need it?)
    I think I have the gist but maybe you audiophiles can clarify for me?
    (not sure what format to use when finally able to import the music file into iTunes)
    - have ordered an AudioTechnica turntable
    -using iMac G4...am I correct that it does not have a distinct "LINE IN"?
    - So, will need iMic from Griffin
    -will use Audacity (available free or lo cost with the iMic?
    -Possibly use "ClickRepair" to rid of clicks and clacks in the music?
    Clean the vinyl first (any suggestions what to use?)
    connect turntable to iMac via iMic
    put record on the platter
    launch Audacity
    start the turntable
    tell Audacity to record into a non compressed format (so I can use ClickRepair).
    after both software products have finished, import into iTunes?
    As what? AiFF, Apple Lossless?
    Any and all advice appreciated.
    (This is birthday gift for hubby and I want to get it right !)
    Message was edited by: Barbara Passman3

    Work Flow - Recording a vinyl LP to the Mac for iTunes
    The short version of what needs to be done is this:
    * Set up the hardware - find the cables needed to connect the turntable to the Mac.
    * Provide an RIAA EQualization curve - this can be done with hardware or software
    * Clean the vinyl LP
    * Set up the recording software - select input and output, designate where the file is to be saved and in what format (considering quality level desired and hard drive space available), enable "pass through" (so you can listen while recording), and set the recording level.
    * Record
    * Edit - define tracks, if necessary, clean pops and scratches, if possible
    * Import into iTunes - name tracks, change file format, if necessary to save hard drive space
    Here is the long version:
    *Hardware:
    I suggest connecting your turntable to a stereo amplifier or pre-amplifier which has a "Phono" input. The (red and white) RCA plugs on the turntable would plug into the Phono jacks on the back of the amp. Then, use a stereo-RCA-to-1/8th-inch-minijack-cable (RadioShack) to connect a set of the amplifier's "Line Out" jacks to the Mac's audio "Line In" port.
    If your Mac does not have a "Line In" port, I highly recommend the Griffin iMic ($40 - http://www.griffintechnology.com/products/imic/). The iMic comes with a short RCA-minijack cable; you will probably want a 1/8th inch stereo extension cable which is long enough to reach between the turntable and the Mac.
    I also suggest a good set of headphones - especially if you are applying filters and effects. It will be difficult or impossible to tell what you are doing if you are monitoring the results with typical computer speakers. I use (and highly recommend) the Sennheiser HD-485s although there are many others you could choose from.
    * RIAA Equalization - As mentioned elsewhere in this thread, you will need to provide an RIAA equalization curve so your LPs will sound right when played back. Your stereo amplifier or pre-amp with a "Phono" input has that built in, so you are all set.
    If, however, you don't have an amp or pre-amp with "Phono" inputs, then you could connect the turntable's RCA jacks directly to the iMic and use the Final Vinyl software (included with the iMic) to provide the RIAA curve (Filters>Add>EQ> then check the button "Connected to a turntable"). I can't comment on the results from using Final Vinyl's for the RIAA, because I use a stereo amp.
    * Clean the vinyl LP:
    First, I use a brush with very fine nylon bristles and a weak solution of dishwashing detergent in tepid water (http://www.needledoctor.com/Online-Store/Nylon-Bristle-Brushes) to remove dirt and fingerprints. Gently work the bush with a concentric motion, following the groves, then, rinse under tepid tap water and blot dry on a clean tea towel.
    This will leave some lint, so clean again by using the Discwasher brush (http://www.needledoctor.com/Discwasher-D4-Kit?sc=2&category=108), held lightly, on the LP as it rotates on your turntable. After using up my Discwasher fluid, I started mixing my own: half distilled water and half isopropyl alcohol.
    I should mention, my goal was to clean the LP for one last playback for the recording, without consideration of what long-term effect my cleaning method might have on the LP.
    Don't forget to examine the needle on the turntable cartridge - it can collect crud which seriously degrades the playback quality. The Discwasher kit has a little brush for the needle, too - careful - it's very fragile.
    *Set up the Software:
    For general recording, including LPs, I recommend "Audio Hijack Pro" ($32 - http://www.rogueamoeba.com/audiohijackpro/) I prefer Audio Hijack Pro to Final Vinyl and CD Spin Doctor, because I can use it to record from many more sources (including streaming audio from the internet), it has many more options for effects and file types, a better Help manual, and, in my experience, fewer crashes. However, Audio Hijack Pro does not offer an RIAA equalization curve, as does Final Vinyl.
    - Format - IF you have enough hard drive space, I would suggest you make the initial recording in 16 bit AIFF format at 44.1kHz. That is the standard format used by audio CDs, so this file type can be burned directly to CDs without conversion or compression. Every audio software application should be able to open an AIFF file.
    If the AIFF files take up too much room on your hard drive, you can always convert them to MP3 or AAC, using your recording software or iTunes, but I suggest you first burn a copy of your AIFF recording to a CD, so you can go back to the original "master" recording in case you want to re-edit it later.
    Some file formats which are compressed - like MP3s - get re-compressed every time you Save. A little information is lost each time the file is compressed, so if you are doing a lot of editing and saving, the file can degrade. That's why I prefer to do any editing on AIFF files, which I change to high quality MP3s in iTunes only when I am done editing.
    - Refer to your software help files to learn how to set input and output, save preferences, and to enable pass through, if needed, so you can hear what you are recording.
    - Next, you will need to set the "level" to be as strong as possible without clipping. Clipping results in distortion when the signal is too strong. If the signal is too weak, the recording will be noisy because the junk will be louder relative to the desired audio. Audio Hijack Pro has "VU Meters" with clipping indicators, and you can set up a "Gain" control to increase or decrease the signal strength. You may need to visit the Mac's "Sound" Preference Pane>Input Tab, to change the signal strength at the system level.
    - Your recording software may offer a few - or many - filters and effects. Filters and effects are available as plugins, so you may be able to find even more as free downloads or for sale. Many filters and effects are going to be of interest only to sound engineers and only for rare special circumstances. Some are quite useful when cleaning up tape or microphone recordings, but I have not found any which are very effective on LP-type pops and scratches. You can waste a LOT of time playing around with these.
    My suggestion is to make your "master" raw recording using few or no effects, then go back and edit COPIES of the master, so if you mess it up, you can start over. With experience, you will learn what works - only then you should apply the filters as you record.
    * Record:
    If your recording software offers these features, here is something you may want to try when recording LPs. One is a feature to automatically detect the "silent" groove between tracks so the finished recording will consist of a separate file for each track. You may have to adjust some sensitivity settings to get this to work, and I found it to be somewhat fussy.
    Another useful feature is a Pause button, so you can turn over an LP without actually stopping and restarting the recording - and also without the sounds of picking up the needle from side A and setting it down on side B. The pause feature is especially nice when the LP is really one long recording, such as a symphony.
    If you are recording in the AIFF format, don't waste time naming albums, artists, and tracks in the recording software. That info is not encoded in the AIFF file, so when you move the file to iTunes you will have to rename everything again. Might work if you are recording in the MP3 format.
    * Edit:
    If your finished recording lacks tracks, you can re-create them by using the "split" feature of your editing software - which may be the same as your recording software, or something different. I really like Fission for simple editing like splits, cuts and fades, and they claim it's "lossless" even when editing MP3s (http://rogueamoeba.com/fission/). It's particularly good for trimming off the "silent" grooves at the start and end of the LP where the pops are much more obtrusive. For applying filters and equalization, I stick with Audio Hijack.
    The Holy Grail for LP recordings is trying to eliminate pops and scratches. I can't offer too much encouragement. Nothing I've tried has been very effective in reducing pops and scratches, and everything I've tried which has helped, has also degraded the recording somewhat, usually dulling the sound a little.
    "CD Spin Doctor" is somewhat useful, offering separate sliders for applying "De-click" De-crackle" and "De-hiss". The effect can quickly be previewed, and after you get the degree of adjustment you want, it can be applied to the whole file (works on AIFF, not MP3). My copy of CD Spin Doctor came with Toast Titanium 6, but I see it is now being sold on Roxio's site as a stand-alone application ($40 - http://www.roxio.com/enu/products/spindoctor/overview.html). Sadly, the improvement I've seen in LP noise has been less than miraculous.
    Many reviewers say great things about SoundSoap2, but I was disappointed. It is the best noise reduction software I have tried, and also the most expensive ($129 - http://www.bias-inc.com/products/soundSoap2/), but I was unable to make much improvement in LP pops and scratches without also degrading the overall quality of the audio. It has a "Learn Noise" feature which is very cool - in theory. Find a groove to sample with pops (but no music) and SoundSoap2 will eliminate the same noise profile from the entire recording. There is another cool feature in which you can listen just to the "noise" which is to be removed - and there you will hear the learned "pop" also includes quite a bit of the music spectrum.
    SoundSoap2 is pretty good at cleaning up hiss from tape recordings and wind noise from microphone recordings, but not so good for LPs.
    Some editing software (like CD Spin Doctor and SoundSoap2) offer an "Exciter" or "Excitifier" effect which helps restore some of the brilliance and high end which is lost in noise reduction. This is one of the few effects which I've found to be useful, if used in moderation.
    I haven't tried "ClickRepair" which I just learned about from this thread, but after reading the website (http://wwwmaths.anu.edu.au/~briand/sound/) and Version Tracker, I'm hopeful that it will perform better than CD Spin Doctor and Soundsoap2. Thanks for the tip.
    * Import into iTunes:
    After I have the recording edited and cleaned, I import it into iTunes. At this stage I usually have AIFF files, one for each track on the LP. In iTunes, the album and tracks will have generic names (track 1, track 2, etc.), so I edit the Album name, track titles, genre, year, etc (File>Get info>Info tab); Select the whole album before "get info" to edit the Album, Artist, Genre and Year info, but select each track one-at-a-time to edit the Track titles.
    Next, I burn one or two "master" copies of the edited recording as an audio CD form the AIFF files. Be aware that if you burn an audio CD, the album and track names you edited will appear only when you insert that CD back into the same Mac it was burned on - take it to another Mac or PC and all you will see are the Generic names (track 1, etc) - this is normal for an audio (AIFF) CD.
    Because they take up so much room, I don't keep AIFF files on my hard drive - I use iTunes to convert them to MP3 files (Advanced>Convert Selection to MP3). You may want to use AAC or some other format, instead. Consider all possible future uses of your iTunes library (iPod vs non-Apple MP3 player, compatibility with the CD player in your car or home stereo, quality of your playback equipment, etc.)
    To change the quality of the MP3 or AAC files imported to iTunes, go to: Preferenes>Advanced>Importing. (I use a Custom import setup of: High Quality (160kbps), Variable bit rate - a step up from the mor common 128kbps MP3.) Whatever settings you have selected here is what will be used when your AIFF files are converted to MP3. After converting the recording to MP3, I delete the AIFF file from iTunes (and my hard drive), but I keep my master (AIFF) CD in a safe, accessible location.
    If I want a music mix to listen to in my car, or for a party, or for background music while I work, the MP3 files on my hard drive are fine. However, if I really want to listen to the music on quality playback equipment, I'll choose the CD I burned from the uncompressed (AIFF) file.
    Hope this helps.

  • I used a usb turntable to import old vinyl records into iTunes. Then with the cloud and iTunes match I put them on another Mac.  The songs come up in the music list but they are greyed out.  How do I get them recognized.

    I used a usb turntable to import old vinyl records into iTunes. Then with the cloud and iTunes match I put them on another Mac.  The songs come up in the music list but they are greyed out.  How do I get them recognized.  The symbol states the songs were downloaded from iCloud.  I would like to get them to play so that I can make a playlist, and burn a CD.

    Try:
    - Reset the iOS device. Nothing will be lost
    Reset iOS device: Hold down the On/Off button and the Home button at the same time for at
    least ten seconds, until the Apple logo appears.
    - Unsync all music and resync
    - Reset all settings      
    Go to Settings > General > Reset and tap Reset All Settings.
    All your preferences and settings are reset. Information (such as contacts and calendars) and media (such as songs and videos) aren’t affected.
    - Restore from backup. See:                                 
    iOS: How to back up           
    - Restore to factory settings/new iOS device.

  • What software do I need to get music from a vinyl record into ITunes

    What software do I need to get music from a vinyl record into ITunes

    When I used Audacity to digitize some of my LPs I would record the whole album, then trim the lead in, select and export the first track, delete that, then export the next track, and so on. You can zoom in and out to locate the track breaks. There is a snap to zero point option which should prevent clicks on track transitions. If you want to go deeper you can add fade in and out so you don't snap into the sound of the groove. (I was using a pretty ropey turntable). There are other tools that chop up audio but you should be able to do it all in Audacity reasonably quickly once you get your eye in. I'm sure there are tools that can chop audio at pre-specified points, or even calculate where those points should be, but they are unlikely to be free and probably still need a degree of supervision.
    tt2

  • What is the process for recording vinyl records into iTunes using the Sony USB Turntable?

    What is the process for recording vinyl records into iTunes using the Sony USB Turntable?

    What is the process for recording vinyl records into iTunes using the Sony USB Turntable?

  • How can I get my (vinyl) record music into iTunes Match?

    I have a rather large collection of music on CDs, Tapes, and records.
    Now that iTunes Match exists I would like to include all of my music into my iTunes library.
    There is no easy way (that I know of) to load anything except CDs into iTunes. So for the rest of the library one must either buy all the music again or buy equipment to play the music one time and convert it to a newer format.
    My CD collection is mostly loaded and since 99.999% (virtually all) of that music is already in iTunes Match it is not uploaded to iTunes again, but it quickly becomes available to play on all my iTunes Authorized Devices.
    With the exception of that 1 in ten thousand songs that I may have that iTunes does not have in the Match library there is no reason to import the music at all - other than to prove I have the actual CD's. (In any case I suppose I could have borrowed them for that anyway.)
    However for CDs at least they can be imported - but for tapes and records I know of no direct way.
    With something state-of-the-art like iTunes Match and my PC(s), iPhone(s) and iPad, why use stone-age-like means to prove ownership of outside-of-iTunes music?
    Why not provide some other information to identify albums owned and have them available in iTunes Match without the 99.999% useless step of loading them?
    In fact for most tape music it is no longer playable (to convert) as the rollers in the tape devices deteriorate and they no longer play.
    Vinyl records play just fine, just not easily into a PC without purchase of expensive equipment that would be used only for the one-time load (which is really just for proof-of-ownership).
    What a ridiculous waste of time, energy and funds for that 1 in 10,000 songs that may not yet exist in the iTunes Match library. Okay, as the music gets older it may even be 2 in 10,000 - but I doubt it.
    I remember that each album (and 45 rpm single) has identifying information scratched into it (around the inside of the innermost track) - can that (or something else) suffice as proof of ownership to get the music into iTunes Match?
    Please respond with ideas to quickly and easily get already-owned vinyl record music into an iTunes Match library.
    I personally do not care if 1 (or 2) out of 10,000 of my songs gets lost because it is not in the iTunes Match library - couldn't be that good in that case anyway.
    Thanks!!

    I too have not figured out how to convert my vinyl collection to iTunes match. Here is what I have tried:
    I record my vinyl records onto CD using a Sony RCD-W500C which makes a very high quality recording. I make sure the song lengths are the same as those from the same album at the iTunes store.
    Then I import the CD into my iTunes music library. I have to enter the names of the tracks manually because Gracenote cannot identify the names of the songs. I do this while the music is in my iTunes music library and the CD has been ejected from my PC.
    Then I try to get the iTunes Match, but it never works. I do, however, get the artwork from iTunes. iTunes then uploads my songs into the iCloud. When I download them back onto my PC and iPhone 4s, I get the identicle recording that I imported onto iTunes. I know this because I can hear the static and crackling of the vinyl. I don't necessarily mind that noise, but I figured if I paid for the iTunes Match I should get the AAC 256 bps music. After all it doesn't cost iTunes anything to give it to me. And there's no way I'm going to purchase all my vinyl records again. I have about 500 albums.
    I do buy all my new music from iTunes because I think it is the best system available. I just think it could be so much better if they would let me download the highest quality recording of the music I own from them.
    I have also tried the Sony Sound Forge Audio Studio which records my vinyl records into a music file on my PC. But that doesn't get the match either.
    THERE HAS TO BE SOMEBODY OUT THERE THAT CAN TELL US WHAT ITUNES MATCH LOOKS AT IN OUR MUSIC UPLOADS THAT DETERMINES WHETHER THEY GIVE US THE MATCH!!!!!!
    When you download a CD, there is some information embedded in the CD that iTunes matches. I don't believe there is any information embeded in the vinyl albums, but when I burn them onto a CD-maybe I could add the info onto the CD before trying to match it if I just knew what they looked for.
    I would appreciate any help anyone can give me on this.

  • Import folderstructur vinyl records

    hi there,
    i have just finished turning a pile of old vinyl records into a pile of aif files.
    i named the files after the name of the songs preceeded by a three-digit number (per album).
    the songs i put into folders named after the albums.
    the albums i put into folders named after the artists.
    now i want to import this into i-tunes preserving the artist/album/song-structure but i-tunes just imports a big pile of files.
    how can i keep the hirachie, i would be very happy if somebody could help...

    You can't do what you want as the files do not have the MPS Tags in them required by iTunes.
    The best thing to do is add each album one at a time and edit the MP£ Tag in iTunes, using the 'Get Info' command in the File Menu.

  • How to transfer a vinyl recording to a digital file on an iMac?

    I have an analog output turntable and many vinyl records that I would like to get into digital form.

    Two questions one what year iMac and two  what kind of analog output from the turntable, line or phono?
    The latest Macs do not have an audio input so you will need to use an analog to USB interface. If the iMac is older and you have an audio input jack you cam connect to that.
    Now the big question is the type of output from the turntable, If it is a line level output you can connect this right to the input (either iMac jack or USB converter) if the output from the turntable is phono then you will need a phono pre-amp to boost the signal and equalize it. Look in the owners manual or search on-line to find this out.
    Once you have your turntable hooked up to the iMAc you sillneed recording software. I like the Audacity: Free Audio Editor and Recorder.
    Once you have all this you]re set to go. You can take the files generated by Audacity and import them into iTunes for storage and playback.
    regards

  • HT1351 I've encoded a vinyl LP record into digital format and recorded it onto an usb as MP3 file. But when I tried to copy it onto my ipod classic, I get a message stating "was not copied to the ipod because it cannot be played on this ipod". Why?

    I've encoded a vinyl LP record into digital format and recorded it onto an usb as MP3 file. But when I tried to copy it onto my ipod classic, I get a message stating "was not copied to the ipod because it cannot be played on this ipod". Why?

    I was refering to the "sample rate", normally 44.1 KHz, the iPod might not be able to play tracks with a non-standard rate. Otherwise I'm not sure what the issue might be.
    tt2

  • What is best way to get video into my iMac for recording?

    I have a HD camera that outputs both HDMI and Component Analog video. What do I need to be able to get one of these signals into my iMac so I can record/edit it?

    What kind of media does it record to? iMovie will import many types of media and formats. I would be using the video from the media if possible not the Video output sigal.

  • Need advice in importing analog vinyl records

    My wife has asked me to try to import a couple of her childhood Christmas albums into iTunes (so we can burn CDs). I have reasonably computer and audio savvy, but I can't seem to get a foothold to figure out how to approach this. I have read all posts here twice. I so far have not been able to record any audio on my computer..so first issue is not quality but just basic input.
    Here is my background. I have an old turntable (with red and white RCA outputs). I don't have a pre-amp, but do have newer receiver with most all ouputs. For software, I have Garageband, Roxio Toast 5 (for OS 9), and Audacity. None of these have decent enough "help" functions, although I have read each several times.
    I think my core issue might be wires, but not sure. I have tons of wires, including
    1) DAC100 Analog to Digital Video adapter, which works well with videos..but I can't find manual to help see if it can work with audio
    2) "Y adapter". One side has female RCAs of Y, R, and W. Other side has Yellow (video) and Black (audio) plug. This seems to plug into the computer OK. (I think this should work as well as imic)
    Can someone point me to a good detailed instruction of how to get this to work? This should not be that hard.
    Thanks!! David

    A new receiver very often does not have the correct pre-amp for old turntables.
    Did you verify this?
    If your amplifier/receiver does not have a special connection for turntables, the audio might have lack of low frequencies.
    This Wiki tells you more about the necessary RIAA equalization:
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RIAA_equalization
    If your amplifier/receiver is OK for the job, the cable you described should work.
    Select the input in System Preferences>Sound, fire up Audacity and you're ready to record.
    Sounds simple, but you might encounter several problems.
    Audacity isn't my first choice. It's a good fairly good sound editor, but lacks easy settings for recording an entire LP and splitting it in tracks.
    My iMac doesn't have an audio input, so I've used an iMic to digitize my vinyl records. The accompanying software (Final Vinyl) makes it a lot easier (even has a setting for RIAA correction). I didn't use it though.
    I used my old amplifier as the source for the iMic and used CD Spin Doctor (part of Toast 6 and 7) to record the LPs and split them into the correct tracks.
    Unfortunately, there is no standard 'recipe'
    M
    17' iMac 800 MHz, 768 MB RAM, 200 GB HD, DL burner   Mac OS X (10.4.8)   iTunes 7.0.2

  • I am having problems syncing recently recorded songs to my iPod. I am using an ion program to record vinyl records to iTunes. The songs are in the iTune library and will play on the computer. When I try to sync they show up but do not play. help

    I am using an ion piece of equipment to record vinyl reccords to my iMac and in turn save them in iTunes. I have recorded many records this way and have never had a problem until yesterday. I recorded three songs from records to iTunes and was successful as they are on the song list and will play on the iMac. When I tried to sync them to my iPod they showed up on the menu but would not play. The iPod just skipped over the new guys. Am I doing something wrong or has my ion program flipped out? Any help would be appreciated by this old man. Thankyou

    This might sound weird, but here's an idea which worked for me re music that was newly added to itunes and showed up in my ipod but wouldn't play - I simply played the tracks in itunes first, just a second of time or so will do it, not the whole track, then connect the ipod and sync again and this time they played - hope this helps.

  • Video into my IMac G5

    I have an IMac G5/10.4x. I am using IMovie HD. The equipment is being used in a church to record worship services for output to DVD and the web. We are going to be using a P/T/Z camera that has the ability to output the video signal through both composite (RCA) and S-Video (4 pin). What is the best way to get this video signal into my IMac G5? PLease keep in mind that I need to ultimatly get the footage into IMove to prepare for the web and DVD outputs.

    It makes me sad to correct you, Sue, but:
    Hi Mark,
    if your camera "just" offers analog output (RCA/s-video) you urgently need a analogue-digital converter, which is able to offer a "dv signal" on a firewire connection...
    the Apple store has something to offer, as an example from Canopus
    ====
    apologize, Sue, but no dv-out mentioned in O.P. :-/

  • Recording vinyl records to computer using the Imic

    Has anyone used the IMIC to transfer vinyl records to their computer in order to convert the music to a CD? I have seen mixed reviews on the IMIC and would like to know what other people think. I also would like to know what else is needed to make this work. My stereo system has two AUX ports labeled "L" & "R". I purchased an audio Y-cable (1/8" Stereo Male to Dual RCA (Phono) Male but that alone does not work. If I plug that Y-cable into an IMIC and the IMIC into my computer and use Garageband to record should that work? Is the Final Vinyl a better software than Garageband?
    I am a novice at this and need the easiest process to accomplish the conversion. Any input would be appreciated.

    You stereo system's AUX ports are probably inputs, not outputs. Does it have TAPE OUT ports? They should work with your cable to the Mac's audio input. See if you get any signal in the "Input" tab of "Sound" system preference. Select "Line In" and adjust the input volume slider.
    You can record with QuickTime Player using "New Audio Recording" from its "File" menu.
    You only need the iMic if you want to go directly from the turntable to the computer without using your stereo system. In that case, you have to use the Final Vinyl software to handle the RIAA equalization.

  • Problem with vinyl recording

    I specifically purchased the Soundblaster x-fi HD for vinyl recording to my computer. The problem is as the signal runs through the unit into my computer, i am unable to designate the different special effects available with this unit. I can record the record just fine but I was counting on being able to record vinyl and adding in the effects into the actual recorded file, but no matter what I do, i cannot get this to happen. Is it possible to do this with this particular unit, or if not, can you direct me to something that will? My email address is [email protected] Any info anybody can give me on this is deeply appreciated.

    Jord, when I called it a "phenomenon" I did not mean to describe it as a bug or fault - you're right, it is a desireable feature of cycle recording.
    As far as your question goes: Suppose you are recording track-by-track a song with two parts, an acoustic guitar and vocals, and the acoustic guitar part has an intricate eight-bar solo that needs to be redone. The advantage of using cycle recording and autodrop here is that you could define a cycle region giving you a two-bar intro (say) to the part you need to rerecord and a couple of bars of outro, making it easier to accomplish a musical phrasing. For example, say you're a vocalist trying to record a one-octave scale, and your pitch is off on the "fa-so." With cycle recording and autodrop, you could sing along with the "do-re-mi" and settle your pitch before rerecording the notes you flubbed, whereas (as I understand it) if you're just rerecording the "fa-so" in cycle mode, you won't get the "do-re-mi" as an intro after the first pass and would then just hope that you're nailing the notes you need to rerecord cold.
    You can combine cycle recording with autodrop in Midi - why not in audio? It's a desireable feature in both.

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