Warped/Slightly Pushed up Keyboard

Hi all,
Just received first Mac. Happy overall, but here's the concern:
The keyboard is slightly pushed up on the left side, as if there is a subtle hump running parallel to the speaker grill under and between the tab-caps lock-shift and q-a-z keys. I realize this is a plastic keyboard and don't realistically expect it to be perfectly aligned, but I am worried that there is now not enough play between the screen and fn-shift-caps lock keys when lid is closed. It is noticeably lower on the right side. Looks like the offending keys are 2mm raised above grill. Also the keys are off alignment across the board, with 2mm gaps between some and others physically touching, so I'm wondering if there's something under there pushing up that shouldn't be.
Are the keys supposed to be flush or slightly raised to begin with? I'm going to haul this around a fair amount and don't want a scratched screen if it's going to rub.
I have Applecare and have had this MPB for a few days now. There's an Apple store nearby, so if for some reason it needed repair could they easily fix the keyboard at the store (or is that just opening up a can of worms anyway?).
Thanks!
15" Macbook Pro, 2.33ghz, 2gb RAM, 160gb HD, Matte Screen   Mac OS X (10.4.8)  
Macbook Pro 2.33 Ghz   Mac OS X (10.4.8)  

In actual fact it might well be an optical illusion. I find that my left side look raised at time and especially when the backlighting is on. However, on closer inspection and also looking at it from the front edge I find that it is flat.
While I don't doubt what you're saying, just be sure to confirm that you keyboard in in fact uneven. If it is and it really bothers you contact AppleCare and discuss it with them.

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    Toshiba may need to hire some new interaction designers to revamp the features. That or the designers should have more say over what features should be included or excluded, because there appear to be several "me too" features that aren't necessary.
    The Libretto looks cool. It feels solid. I've used it to write long messages on social networking sites. (However, this forum post was written using my laptop.) The virtual keyboard may be a bit better than that of the iPad, but the virtual keyboards are the only touch-enabled feature that stand out.
    If you've read this far, thanks for your patience.

    I have had my libretto now for 24 hours, and have spent a significant portion of that time interacting with it. As you described, the first was worst. The non-libretto virtual keyboard was nearly impossible to use. I was almost ready to list this thing on ebay before getting past that obstacle.
    Things are getting better now, but I still have a number of issues. I hope there are actual answers to some of them, such as "is there a way to cut and paste without calling up a keyboard? Similarly, is there a way to open the pop-up menu for a link without having to invoke the keyboard or touchpad. I have not used the ipad or another tablet, but it seems there must be a positive answer to these questions for the whole tablet/touchscreen genre. Will get more practice with the touchscreen and v-keyboards as I google these questions. I'm pretty happy, BTW, because I am typing this message on the libretto now. Last night this would have been impossible.
    The very tedious browser in my nook has one feature the Libretto should adopt - any-time I tap a text-input field on a website, the virtual keyboard pops up automatically. With the libretto, I will tap the text-box to put the cursor in it, then push the keyboard button, start typing away, only to find that my cursor disappeared in the process and my typing is not being recorded.Grrr!
    I have done some googling on the Toshiba bulletin board software, but are we Libretto owners the only ones to have used it yet? Lot's of reviews parroting the claims of the promotional literature, but no discussion of problems with using it. I have not been able to drag anything from the top screen to a bulletin board, for instance. I did manage to put some shortcuts to office documents on a board by first saving them to the reeltime thing first, then dragging them from there. But, I think the bulletin boards are all fluff and not worth spending any more time on. Let me know if you find them actually useful for anything.
    As has already been said, you can find your serial number on the bottom if you remove the battery. But there is an easier way, the first bulletin board has a todo list for getting started with your new libretto. Item 2 is to register. Clicking on that item launches a program that reveals your product # and serial #. I think I saw the registration app on the start menu somewhere as well.
    Otherwise, battery lasted only 2 hours after a full charge -very disappointing! Keyboard makes grinding disk-access sound, besides the artificial key clicks. The toshiba books app doesn't seem ready for prime time, but I loaded the free Barnes&Noble Nook app for PC's and I like it better on the libretto, held in book mode, than my real Nook device, except the battery life will kill this as a true substitute for an e-reader device.
    I have been waiting for a device like this since Compaq "luggables" were cutting edge. Sitting by the fireplace watching snow fall outside the window, I dreamed of a computer shaped like a  comfortable book while duty called from the desktop monstrosity in the other room. I have drooled over press-releases about the next OLPC computer, the Entourage eDGe, the Courier, and then the libretto - the first viable-sounding version of my over 15 year-old dream to come to market. I didn't expect this concept computer to be perfect, but I really want to love it.

  • Macbook Pro 13" 2011 Logic Board Troubleshooting

    I have two 13" Macbook Pros, both with the same issue. They are both i5 (2.3 or 2.4 GHz models), 4 GB RAM, Mid-2011 models. Both of them have also been dropped. I believe they have problems with the logic board. When I try to turn it on, nothing happens. The battery does charge I believe, as the battery reports fully charged with the battery button and the MagSafe connector is green when plugged in. When attempting to power on battery alone, nothing happens at all (no lights, no movement, no noises). As soon as I plug the MagSafe adapter in (without pressing the power button), I get a very faint 'ticking' noise, which I have deduced to be the fan's motor VERY slightly receiving power (as if you put your hand on the center of the fan's 'blade' assembly, you can feel the motor very very slightly 'push'/pulse, but not enough to even move it; about 1 second between pulses. I have tried:
    -Powering on with no adapter, but battery
    -Powering on with magsafe adapter
    -Powering on with no battery but magsafe adapter
    -Resetting SMC
    -'Bypassing' SMC with 'Hold power then connect Magsafe' method
    -Jump starting it (with the two pads)
    -Reading the voltage from the pads used to jump start, 3.4-something volts DC (seems correct).
    -Powering on with no RAM (had no different effect)
    -Jump-starting with keyboard disconnected from board
    Any other ideas where to go with testing from here? I just find it odd to find two that have the exact same (specific-seeming) symptom, from the same sort of damage, with no idea what's wrong. Could it be a fuse, possibly, blown by a short with the case from the fall (even if momentary)? If you have any suggestions for fuses to test or if this seems correct, please suggest them.
    To be clear, I am entirely comfortable with removing any/every component in the laptop, if needed, and can work a multimeter and various other diagnostic tools (if I have them). I'm just not too familiar with this particular model's layout and could use some assistance from a more experience tech in regards to Apple products.

    Hello, thank you for your reply. I have been using their vast collection of knowledge, and I do believe I've already gone further with this than the information they have/general knowledge floating around the web will take me. I have checked, and I do have power across G3Hot (the 'Jump Start' pads), 3.47v DC, so I am not willing to accept this as a dead board yet. Next is to check MOSFETs and SMD capacitors I think, see if we've got anything toasted there. I did check every fuse I can find on the board. I also picked up some schematics from 'around' for this board, clearly looks enthusiast-made, but still better than nothing; one should think.

  • New External Monitor for Logic on MacBook Pro - Suggestions

    I'm in the painful process of updating my studio and now my large screen external monitor has started failing.
    I know if this a pretty general question more suited to the MacBook Pro forum but I'd like some input from folks used to working with an application like Logic in a home studio environment.
    I guess the issue for me is that I'm not getting any younger and my eyesight isn't what it used to be. One of the things specific to Logic and music software in general is that there are LOTS of very detailed dialog boxes with text that is not always height adjustable (yes I know about zooming and indeed I do lots of that but it gets quite distracting). The other factor is that I'm often recording and engineering myself which means I'll be sitting with a guitar in my lap or at a keyboard and can't always lean in too close to the monitor.
    I solved this by buying a large 26" Acer which sits on my desk behind the Mackie MCU. To my left I've got the MacBook 15.4" Pro on a keyboard stand above my MIDI controller at a 45 degree angle to the desk.
    It's worked quite well until the Acer seems to have become haunted. It will mysteriously reboot itself intermittently, going blank for a second, then showing the Acer logo and going back to picture. It will also turn itself on spontaneously when the computer is off (the status light is off and then turns itself on). It seems to detect when I'm in the middle of a really good session and starts resetting itself every 30 seconds or so. Then it will work fine sometimes for days or weeks at a time. I've checked it on 4 different computers, it malfunctions on all. I believe in may be a problem with one of the capacitors or the inverter, I'm not sure, but it's driving CRAZY at this point.
    And of course now it's 3 months out of warranty and may be more expensive to fix than buying a new one.
    So my issue is what monitor to replace it with. I've considered buying an Apple monitor, since the display is lovely to look at but there are a couple things that are deal breakers.
    It's expensive. Very expensive.
    Oddly you have to choose between a 24" and a 30", with nothing in between. Don't want to sound like Goldilocks here, but the 24 is tooooo small and the 30 is tooooo big.
    Yeah I know bigger is usually better but since they bumped the native resolution of the 30" up to 2560x1600 it's really sharp but things like the menu text get really quite small. Yes you can reset to a lower non native resolution, but then you loose the sharpness. I tested Logic in the store on the 30" and it did look great but I found I actually had to move my whole body around to see things at the top and bottom of the screen.
    Oh and did I mention that it's expensive? Jeez.
    The 24" now seems to look a bit small to me after using the same resolution (1920x1200) on the Acer's 26" screen. (Ok, I think it's actually 25.5 but hey that half an inch can make a big difference and I will avoid making any bad jokes here).
    And did I mention the Apple monitors are expensive? The 24" is almost 3 times as expensive as a cheaper alternative.
    I also still have a PC here that I use (sorry) and the Apple monitors have very limited connectivity. So I think unfortunately the Apple monitors are out for me.
    So I;m down to a couple other non Apple options. I will not buy an Acer again since I believe now that their quality control is not good and their support is absolutely atrocious. Shame I used to be a big fan of Acer PC's, but after owning a couple I'm steering clear.
    My biggest issue right now is that most of the new budget monitors are geared toward 1080p HD uses so they are they are maxing out at 1920x1080 (16:9 aspect ratio instead of 1920x1200's 16:10). So the tradeoff here is that HD movies will look better in 16:9, but 16:10 gives you "squarer" pixels and more vertical resolution for screen hungry apps like Logic.
    Any opinions on this? I'm a bit new to the Mac so I don't know if I'm really better off going with a 1920x1200 screen like the Apple monitors.
    Also, I know this may just be a bug in the Acer's scaling, but if I switch to 1920x1080, I lose the menus off the top of the screen or if I adjust the vpos I lose the dock at the bottom. Downscaling to 1600x1050 or even 1024x768 works fine. If I get a 1080 screen and set the resolution appropriately will it work correctly and without too much distortion?
    I'm also curious what is the best way to hook up the monitor? I'm currently using the DVI to VGA adapter that came with the MacBook. My Pro is the slighter older silver keyboard model so it has the standard DVI out. Will I see any real improvement by going over to using DVI directly?
    Also I'm wondering how people feel about glossy vs matte for music. My current displays are the non-glossy and I do think I prefer them for detail work.
    The candidates right now are
    Hanns-G HH-281HPB 28" @300$. It's one of the only budget monitors that uses 1920x1200. All the right inputs (DVI, VGA). I'm just afraid this might be a bit too good to be true. It's really cheap and after having problems with a "cheap" Acer (although it wasn't so cheap 3 years ago!) I don't want similar problems. Stand has no swivel or tilt (a big problem for my use). Also that resolution on such a big screen might be good for me or it might look grainy I don't know I haven't seen it. Anybody have any experience with these?
    Samsung P2770H 27" @339 Looks nice, good color. Sadly only 1080 native resolution. Stand doesn't swivel, but does tilt. No VGA input, so won't work with my old PC (although strangely it says it comes with a VGA cable). They get generally good reviews and I know Samsung makes very good flat panel TV's.
    ViewSonic X Series VX2739WM 27" @350. Once again maxes out at 1080. It's fast (1ms), has VGA input. I've never been a big fan of ViewSonic but they do seem to have gotten better color-wise. Tilt no swivel and it's anti-glare (not sure this is a plus).
    There are also similar options from HP, Asus, LG and Sceptre but they are all 1080. In fact outside of the Apples, the Hanns-G and a few expensive monitors from NEC they all seem to be 1080. So if I really want the 1200 the Hanns-G seems like the only way to go.
    Any input here would be greatly appreciated.

    No doubt, the Apple displays are gorgeous. The first time I saw the 30" display wow, I wanted one BAD and it's actually what prompted me to buy a "big" monitor. The colors are great with a rich wonderful saturation level and as usual for Apple the form factor design is stunning. You know for that picture quality I could even get over the sticker shock and save up for one.
    Which is why I was so disappointed when I actually sat down in the store and started to use Logic on one. I imagine for doing video work, graphic design or darn near anything else, it would be great. But for Logic I just found myself bending and twisting trying to look at toolbar at the bottom and then up to look at the menus. And instrument or plugin displays that were hard coded to look OK at lower resolutions looked really, really tiny to me. For me and particularly using Logic having 2 slightly smaller displays at a 45 degree angle makes more sense.
    And once again the 24 seems just a bit small. I don't understand why they have a 27" iMac but you can't buy a 27" display. So iMac 27" starting at 1699, subtract out the cost of the CPU and drive ie the Mini and I'd really buy one. Strangely you can buy a 21.5" or a 27" iMac. Or you can buy a 24" or 30" display. Hmmmm.
    So don't get me wrong I'm not bashing Apple for being expensive. They put a lot of money into R&D and into really thinking about the form and the function of their products. As a recent convert from being a PC developer for 25+ years, hey I've more than sipped the Kool-Aid here, I've guzzled it. They make great products and yeah they're more expensive, because they ARE better! I've now got 2 MBP's, 2 iPods, I'm about to get an iPhone (silly "death grip" or not) and I really want an iPad. Heck I'd really love an 8 core MacPro if I could afford one (alas I can't).
    I guess my only gripe here is that there always seems to be a little less choice in the Apple world. Yeah, I know they do a lot less volume than the PC clone world I just think that they always seem to have a big gap between the high end and low end with not enough in between. So you can choose between the lower end and one piece units with no expansion boards (the mini or the iMac) or go straight to monster tower MacPro (way over 3K with display). You can get a MacBook but then you have to put up with a small screen or go with MacBook Pro, which let's face it is a lot of computing power for someone who just wants to web surf and write some email without squinting.
    So here I am stuck in the middle. I don't want to buy a HannspreeQG or another piece of junk that's going to last 3 years and 3 months because of a crappy $2 capacitor that no seems to able to fix or care about fixing. I'd like to buy a really nice Apple monitor, I just want a big monitor, not a huge one and not a "medium" one (I know I'm spoiled but 24" seems "medium" these days).
    Sorry about the rant here but my monitor is shutting down every 30 seconds and I'm about to go completely insane and toss it out the window!!!
    Really glad to hear about that 84' VGA cable. I never imagined such a thing existed or would work without some sort of signal boost on the way. Very cool for me. My electronic drum kit is in another room and I would love to have a small cheap monitor next to it for sequencing. I had my laptop on a stand next to it for a while but I began to get terrified that I'd let a drumstick slip and destroy my laptop screen. That would be a very bad thing. Thanks for the tip.

  • How to put in subscript and superscript characters

    Hi:
    Does anyone know how to insert subscript and superscript
    characters into Dreamweaver. I am doing a site for an
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    subscript 2 like one would see in H2O. The "2" should be small and
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    <sub>2</sub> code that does not seem ideal as it tends
    to slightly push down the line below once the character is in and I
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    Add this to your CSS -
    sub { position: relative; bottom: 0; left:.2ex; font-size:
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    Then use the <sub> tag.
    Murray --- ICQ 71997575
    Adobe Community Expert
    (If you *MUST* email me, don't LAUGH when you do so!)
    ==================
    http://www.projectseven.com/go
    - DW FAQs, Tutorials & Resources
    http://www.dwfaq.com - DW FAQs,
    Tutorials & Resources
    ==================
    "RockingChairman" <[email protected]> wrote
    in message
    news:g54kt1$jan$[email protected]..
    > Hi:
    > Does anyone know how to insert subscript and superscript
    characters into
    > Dreamweaver. I am doing a site for an
    engineering/manufacturing firm and I
    > am
    > trying to create a subscript 2 like one would see in
    H2O. The "2" should
    > be
    > small and lower than the "H" and the "O". I've tried
    creating one in WORD
    > and
    > cutting and pasting but that will not work and when I
    use the <sub>2</sub>
    > code
    > that does not seem ideal as it tends to slightly push
    down the line below
    > once
    > the character is in and I don't feel like changing the
    line spacing on the
    > entire site. The other thing I can't seem to do is make
    a tiny
    > "Registered" ®
    > character. Simply cutting and pasting from WORD, the
    small superscripted
    > symbol
    > gets made into a large ® once I paste it in. Can
    anyone assist?
    >

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