What is the equivalent to ctrl- ult - delete for a mac pro

Can anyone help with my question.

Perhaps you wanted a way to cancel a hung Application?
Command-Option-Esc
this brings up the Force Quit Dialog on top of every other window.
Choose the Application you want to eliminate and click Force Quit.
This often allows you to just stop the troublemaker, and get on with your business without clobbering everything.

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What is the Best Price(Place to Buy) For 13" MB Pro(non-retina display)

What is the Best Price(Place to Buy) For 13" MB Pro(non-retina display)?
I am in PA, but close to Delaware, which is tax-free shopping.
Thanks!

http://store.apple.com/us/product/FD101/refurbished-133-inch-macBook-pro-25ghz-d ual-core-intel-i5
You would have to web-order directly from Apple. Retail stores and resellers usually do not stock refurbs. All the Macs in our family that are in current use are refurbs and have provided excellent service. None have arrived with any cosmetic defects.

What is the best 3rd party optical drive for my mac?

What is the best 3rd party optical drive for my mac?

I really like this drive, it reads/writes DVD's and CD's just fine on my mac and on my PC aswell also it has only 1 USB so it will only take up one of your 4 USB's
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What is the equivalent app on an iPad for QuickTime on an iMac?

I've created several videos using iVideo on an iMac that are in the .mov format and which are played using QuickTime.
I would like to play them on an iPad. I have iMovie installed. Is that the equivalent of QuickTime for playback? But how do I access the videos on the iMac? I'm using a direct USB connection, but I don't find the tools on the iPad to access the iMac videos. I'm synchronizing data, but videos don't seem to be an option. Do I have to do it via iTunes? or iCloud? or what?
Thank you.
George

Hello George,
    There are a few ways you can do this, depending how and where you saved your finished move, connect your iPad to your computer, open iTunes and select your iPad in the side bar under Devices.
     Once selected you will see tabs for all of your content on top, select Movies then you can select the movies you want to sync. You can then sync all your movies or select only the ones you want.
     If there are no movies, look at you sidebar select Movies under Library and you can either Add to Library, iTunes-File-Add to Library ( Command O ) or you can drag and drop them in there.
    To add then form iMovie,when your finished editing, select Share - iTunes.
    In short, put them in iTunes. That is what I do, and it works find.
    Hope that helps

What is the best antivirus/malware protection software for a MacBook Pro?

I bought my MacBook Pro in April of 2011 and it's been running fine ever since then. I do not keep too many files on my laptop and have everything backed up on a 4TB external hard drive. I have programs that keep my MacBook running smoothly and as fast as possible by clearing out unnecessary files. Recently, my MacBook has become slow and I now normally have to click on a button at least three times before the page loads or refresh the page. Sometimes I even have to force quit Safari and restart from the beginning just to load a web page. Programs will quit unexpectedly and downloading something takes ten times longer. I fear there may be something wrong with my MacBook and it might have a virus or something. What is the best antivirus/malware software to download? I'm leaning towards Norton Antivirus for Mac or Intego Mac Internet Security. Could someone please help me?

1. This comment applies to malicious software ("malware") that's installed unwittingly by the victim of a network attack. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the victim's computer. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. If you have reason to suspect that you're the target of such an attack, you need expert help.
If you find this comment too long or too technical, read only sections 5, 6, and 10.
OS X now implements three layers of built-in protection specifically against malware, not counting runtime protections such as execute disable, sandboxing, system library randomization, and address space layout randomization that may also guard against other kinds of exploits.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user, but internally Apple calls it "XProtect." The malware recognition database is automatically checked for updates once a day; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets.
It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been a second layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't necessarily been tested by Apple, but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. That may not mean much if the developer lives in a country with a weak legal system (see below.)
Gatekeeper doesn't depend on a database of known malware. It has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could simply ignore the consequences of distributing codesigned malware.
An App Store developer could find a way to bypass Apple's oversight, or the oversight could fail due to human error.
For the reasons given above, App Store products, and other applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed, are safer than others, but they can't be considered absolutely safe. "Sandboxed" applications may prompt for access to private data, such as your contacts, or for access to the network. Think before granting that access. OS X security is based on user input. Never click through any request for authorization without thinking.
4. Starting with OS X 10.8.3, a third layer of protection has been added: a "Malware Removal Tool" (MRT). MRT runs automatically in the background when you update the OS. It checks for, and removes, malware that may have evaded the other protections via a Java exploit (see below.) MRT also runs when you install or update the Apple-supplied Java runtime (but not the Oracle runtime.) Like XProtect, MRT is effective against known threats, but not against unknown ones. It notifies you if it finds malware, but otherwise there's no user interface to MRT.
5. The built-in security features of OS X reduce the risk of malware attack, but they're not absolute protection. The first and best line of defense is always going to be your own intelligence. With the possible exception of Java exploits, all known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and the malware attacker. If you're smarter than he thinks you are, you'll win.
That means, in practice, that you never use software that comes from an untrustworthy source, or that does something inherently untrustworthy. How do you know what is trustworthy?
Any website that prompts you to install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one, is untrustworthy.
A web operator who tells you that you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, or that you have won a prize in a contest you never entered, is trying to commit a crime with you as the victim. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
Pirated copies or "cracks" of commercial software, no matter where they come from, are unsafe.
Software of any kind downloaded from a BitTorrent or from a Usenet binary newsgroup is unsafe.
Software that purports to help you do something that's illegal or that infringes copyright, such as saving streamed audio or video for reuse without permission, is unsafe. All YouTube "downloaders" are in this category, though not all are necessarily harmful.
Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be downloaded directly from the developer’s website. If it comes from any other source, it's unsafe.
Even signed applications, no matter what the source, should not be trusted if they do something unexpected, such as asking for permission to access your contacts, your location, or the Internet for no obvious reason.
6. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was always a bad idea, and Java's developers have proven themselves incapable of implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style virus affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful.
Fortunately, client-side Java on the Web is obsolete and mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice. Forget about playing games or other non-essential uses of Java.
Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it — not JavaScript — in your browsers.
Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a task on a specific site, enable Java only for that site in Safari. Never enable Java for a public website that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, login-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a lock icon in the address bar with the abbreviation "https" when visiting a secure site.
Follow the above guidelines, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can practically be. The rest of this comment concerns what you should not do to protect yourself from malware.
7. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they all do more harm than good, if they do any good at all. Any database of known threats is always going to be out of date. Most of the danger is from unknown threats. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use one of the free anti-virus products in the Mac App Store — nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial "anti-virus" products?
Their design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere.
In order to meet that nonexistent threat, the software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
By modifying the operating system, the software itself may create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
8. An anti-malware product from the App Store, such as "ClamXav," doesn't have these drawbacks. That doesn't mean it's entirely safe. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
An anti-virus app is not needed, and should not be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful only for detecting Windows malware. Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else.
A Windows malware attachment in email is usually easy to recognize. The file name will often be targeted at people who aren't very bright; for example:
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥!!!!!!!H0TBABEZ4U!!!!!!!.AVI♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥.exe
Anti-virus software may be able to tell you which particular virus or trojan it is, but do you care? In practice, there's seldom a reason to use the software unless a network administrator requires you to do it.
The ClamXav developer won't try to "upsell" you to a paid version of the product. Other developers may do that. Don't be upsold. For one thing, you should not pay to protect Windows users from the consequences of their choice of computing platform. For another, a paid upgrade from a free app will probably have the disadvantages mentioned in section 7.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.
10. As a Mac user you don't have to live in fear that your computer is going to be infected every time you install an application, read email, or visit a web page. But neither should you have the false idea that you will always be safe, no matter what you do. The greatest harm done by security software is precisely its selling point: it makes people feel safe. They may then feel safe enough to take risks from which the software doesn't protect them. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices.

What is the best way to set up my new Mac Pro?

Not wanting to screw up in a process I've not done with a brand new machine before, I'm looking for feedback on my plan for setting my new Mac Pro next week...
The physical plan is this:
For RAM, I have four 2GB SDRAM's plus the supplied six 1GB modules. My plan here is to install the 2GB rams into the first four slots and install four of the 1GB modules into the remaining four slots for a total of 12GB's.
When the cost for 4GB modules gets down to reasonable, I'll buy four of them and bump the current rams down the line which will then give me a total of 24 gigs where I'll stay.
For my hard drives, I'm installing a 160GB Intel X25-M into the first drive bay
http://www.intel.com/design/flash/nand/mainstream/index.htm
using one of MaxUpgrades' 'MaxConnects' kits. I will use this drive for the operating system software and my applications and their libraries.
Next, into the remaining three drive bays, I am installing three 300GB WD Velociraptors. Mine are the pre-'backplane ready' versions:
http://www.wdc.com/en/products/products.asp?DriveID=459
so I have bought these sleds for them...
http://www.maxupgrades.com/istore/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_i d=180
I own one of Sonnet's Tempo SATA E4P cards
http://www.sonnettech.com/product/temposatae4p.html
which, thanks to this forum, I now understand, with the correct firmware installed, function well so I will install it and be able to establish hardware RAID. I will create a RAID 0 set with the three Velociraptors and use it to store all of my data files.
Backup will happen on a 1TB WD 'Caviar Black' external drive connected through one of the Sonnet card's external eSATA ports and using the OS 'Time Machine' software.
And that's the physical plan. My question is about setting things up. The physical installation part is straight forward and I don't expect any difficulties but I'm wondering what is the best way to install the operating system.
Do I take a first step keeping the supplied hard drive installed, install the solid state drive into the next drive bay and then transfer the contents from the supplied drive onto the SSD or do I do the complete physical installation process and do a 'C' drive start up and install the OS that way?
And, do you have any tips/suggestions on setting up the RAID 0 set?
thanks for the help. I want to do this right.
JQ

oh mighty Hatter, I knew you'd have helpful guidance to offer! And thank you. You've confirmed my anxieties about the Sonnet card; kind of a 'too much, too quickly' sort of thing. And it's not that Sonnet's not a good company. Just everything to do with new technologies and the growth curve we all, manufacturers and users, go through when they come out. And, for sure, the new Mac Pro's are new technology; the single biggest forward leap in Apple's top-of-the-line machines for some time far as I can tell. Just reading at Intel's website about the Nehalem's is a joy!
So, I will proceed now with everything except for the controller card, leaving that 'til later. In the meantime, I think I'll just happily run with the four hard drives all running independently. No software RAID. I know just those, the SSD boot drive plus Velociraptor trio's going inside of a 2.66ghz 8-core Nehalem Mac Pro is going to be a working pleasure. Heck, this way, I'll get settled in and used to the machine's speed, have a great time doing so and then, in however many months, I can jump into spending another chunk of money on an excellent RAID card, RAID card's dear Barefeats will have tested and reviewed for us, set up my RAID 0 set and head of to those new races watching my computer leap for joy! Could be that, by then, the cost of Intel 160GB X25-M's will have dropped enough that I can afford to go for a second and have a two SSD RAID 0 boot drive... Yummy!
Thanks for the help. Like I say, I knew there was useful guidance hanging on some limb within your personal kit, (otherwise referred to as your mind)!
Interesting to read about the problems people have had with Sonnet's 2.17 update in PPC's... In this computer, my PowerMac G5 dual 2.7ghz, I have a Sonnet 'Tempo Sata X4P' controller card. I downloaded and installed 2.17 and got the same troubles; no cut, no paste, no 'drag and drop' etc. It was miserable.
Mine, fortunately, magically corrected after running the 'permissions verify and correct' process in Disc Utility and, after a restart, all was back to almost normal but for one exception; the Sonnet card was no longer present or functioning including the four eSATA ports out the back. (I ran Tech Tools Pro 5's repair suites first but, and who knows why, it didn't correct the problem...) This one was absolutely in the 'who knows what the f_'s going on and why it disappeared but did' class.
Oh, the other remnant is that, when the computer goes into sleep, after about five minutes, the fans rev up, and up, and the computer's frozen; only access is to do a forced shutdown pressing and holding the power button, so I've had to adopt a 'shut down whenever leaving it for more than fifteen minutes' approach to this dear friend. Once I've fully moved into and established my new one (which should arrive today, by the way... Yippeee!!! Can't wait!), I'll do a complete restoration on this one including taking out the Sonnet card. Usually, I sell my old Pro's but, this time, I'm going to keep this one as a back up and just general second computer for times I might need it. It has been such a great and dependable machine. Keeping it seems the right thing to do.
thanks Hatter. I'll let you know how things go, including what happens with the SSD. I don't have speed test software so I won't be able to track it's performance like that guy in the post you gave me did...
JQ
ps- Gotta love that ILLogic fellow eh? Talk about not getting the essence!

What is the maximum GB I can have in my MAC PRO?

My Mac Pro specs:
Hardware Overview:
Model Name:    Mac Pro
Model Identifier:    MacPro5,1
Processor Name:    Quad-Core Intel Xeon
Processor Speed:    2.4 GHz
Number Of Processors:    2
Total Number Of Cores:    8
L2 Cache (per core):    256 KB
L3 Cache (per processor):    12 MB
Memory:    16 GB
Processor Interconnect Speed:    5.86 GT/s
Boot ROM Version:    MP51.007F.B03
SMC Version (system):    1.39f11
SMC Version (processor tray):    1.39f11
Im wondering what is the most GB of hard drive space I can have in my Mac Pro? The Apple representative on the phone said I could only do 8GB? Is this correct? I was thinking about maybe getting 3Tb internal hard drives, but that would exceed the limit apple representative said of a total of 8GB hard drive max?
Did I miss something?

Did I miss something?
Yes, what does "GB" refer to here? Is it hard drives or memory dimms?
If it's hard drives you can put any size SATA drive in your mac pro drive bays.
If it's memory dimms refer to OWC's charts for your model to see what you can add. So for a 5,1 (2010 Mac Pro) you could fill the slots with 8GB dimms.

I have a Mac 10.2.8 and Firefox 2.0.0.20. What is the highest upgrade I can get for this Mac because I don't want to have to upgrade my Mac or buy a new one?

I can't access certain links from sites, especially with a lot of graphics. I get messages to the effect that I need to upgrade my browser. But then the update says I need a 10.3 Mac or higher. Also any site with a lot of graphics takes forever to download. Is there an intermediate update that I could use instead for my Mac?

For Mac 10.2.8 you need Firefox 2.0.0.20 as Firefox 3 will NOT RUN on your Operating System.
Download Firefox 2.0.0.20 from HERE.... http://www.mozilla.com/en-US/firefox/all-older.html
Follow THESE Instructions to Install... http://kb.mozillazine.org/Installing_Firefox#Mac_OS_X
BUT This is scheduled to be the LAST release of Firefox 2, so you will need to upgrade youur computer to receive further updates.

What's the "best" external/portable hard drive for a Mac Notebook?

I've gone through 2 completely different kinds of WD external hard drives with my Mac Notebook (late-2011, OS X Yosemite 10.10.2), and both literally burned out after only about 18 months. The disk itself completely died and even when I took it to a computer repair store and they cracked the case open to extract the disk itself to hook up to another drive, it was still dead or wouldn't work. I had to have it shipped out to a 3rd party data recovery service both times to have some/most of the data salvaged and recovered (and each times it cost me between $700-$1,000!).
I use my external drive as my main data source and store all of my files there due to it's portability advantages, so I probably do run these external drives pretty hard, especially when running iTunes.
Unless told otherwise, I'm getting away from the WD products for obvious reasons.
So which brand of portable external drives are the most reliable and/or "best" for Mac Notebook users? I'm looking for something that's at least 1 TB and connects via Firewire 800.
Thanks in advance.
- Rob

Given the low cost of an external HD compared with the expense of data recovery services it might be an idea to buy two HD's and duplicate the data across both drives, then if one fails you still have all your data on the other which can be quickly and easily copied across to a new drive to replace the failed one - so you always have two copies of your data.

What type of internal drive should I get for my Mac Pro?

I want to buy a large internal hard drive for my Intel Mac Pro.
1. What type do I need to get? What do I need to look for as far as specs?
2. Anyone know what the largest sized one I can put inside it is?
Thanks.

Some drives over 2.2TB started using blocks 4K in size instead of the traditional 1/2K sized blocks. That does not sound like a Big Deal, but it changes the Error Correcting Codes needed and means a new data-separation algorithm inside the drive.
For Operating Systems, it means that you want the smallest block to be 4K instead of 1/2K, because allocating blocks on 1/2K bound will give you logical blocks that split across physical blocks, which will be s-l-o-w.
Mac OS designers saw that stuff coming and changed the software to accomodate it. They included it with other changes in GUID partition map, which worked well at 10.4.6 and later.

Please can someone tell me if there is an equivalent to ctrl, alt, delete for the imac?

I really need to close down mail as it has frozen - any ideas?

Try command + option + esc.
Allan

What's the equivalent to a host file for iPad 3?

Yesterday, I noticed that I couldn't browse to any pages or web apps on my own local web server with my new iPad and Safari. Also, when I looked at web mashups on my rented webserver that used some resources on the web and some from my local web server, the resources from my local web server didn't show up.
Then late in the day, I remembered that I had fixed this problem before on my office PCs. Back last year, I abandoned a rented T1 line between my office and headquarters beacuse of cost and reliability, and got my office internet provider switched over to Charter. To connect back to the office to share files, and remote login to servers, I set up a VPN. Headquarters IT wanted to route all my traffic to inside their IronGate, then route my internet traffic out. But Headquarters IT couldn't figure out how to pass DNS back out of their firewall so it wasn't working. I told HQ IT let's set up the VPN so just traffic heading into headquarters is directed through the VPN, and the internet traffic from my office could be just be handled by Charter. Since they couldn't make it work any other way, they had to agree. I just had to add one line in the host file of each PC that needs browser access to our web server that resolves the host name of our local web server to an IP address that is valid inside our NAD LAN.
However, I don't know yet how to add this name resolution to the iPad. The problem though is that I'll have to reverse this host name resolution when I'm out of our LAN, because accessing our web server by host name works perfectly when I'm on a differnt WI-Fi network or if I turn Wi-Fi off.

There isn't one.

What's the best way to serve media for ATV2, Macs, etc?

I just purchased an Apple TV 2. I really like it and I'm not having any issues, etc. But here's my question. I've got an old iMac G4 (still running like a champ), a brand new iMac, my MacBook, my wife's MacBook, daughter's MacBook Pro, iPhone, iPod touch, etc that are all on my wired/wireless network at any given time. Each of these computers has some movies, music, photos that I want to be able to watch on Apple TV (and the Macs for that matter). I'm interested in some kind of server where I can put all of the movies, music, photos, etc from each computer in 1 place and that's where all of my media is served from. I would not only like to be able to play the media in Apple TV, but also access it via either iMac, or my iPhone, iPod touches, etc (although the last 2 are not as critical and not possible yet till Air Play comes out next month).
Does anyone have any suggestions of what kind of hardware I should purchase to do this? Basically, I want a jam-up iTunes server that serves everything to each device (sorry, should have worded it this way sooner! . Maybe a MacMini server would do it? Or possibly just a Mac Mini or would Time Capsule do something like this?
Any input is much appreciated!!

Patrick Hindman wrote:
Does anyone have any suggestions of what kind of hardware I should purchase to do this? Basically, I want a jam-up iTunes server that serves everything to each device (sorry, should have worded it this way sooner! . Maybe a MacMini server would do it? Or possibly just a Mac Mini or would Time Capsule do something like this?
i use an old G4 Mac Mini running 10.5 Leopard, and it's on 24/7
it runs in headless mode (ie no monitor) and i remotely administer it using remote desktop (or logmein if i'm out the house).
i have a 1TB WD Mybook hanging off it connected via Firewire and that stores all my itunes content.

What's the best DIVX file conversion solutions for Adobe Premiere Pro CS4, Windows XP OS.

I am on a PC with CS4 Adobe Premiere Pro using XP OS.
I have VIO POV 1 (helmet cam) footage that I need to edit within my CS4 project. The Footage is DIVX MPEG4 AVI and Premiere doesn't recognize the video. I need to figure out the best conversion to maintain the highest quality format that Premiere will recognize.
What is your best recommendation on how to convert (and what format to convert to to maintain the best quality) and can you recommend a good converter program? Free perhaps if I don't have to buy one.
I have spent days looking for a solution and reviewing posts but to no avail. I have tried MPEG Streamclip, Virtual Dub, Digital Media Converter, Prism and many selected others.
-MPEG Streamclip doesn't seem to recognize the DIVX files (even after the 3IVX codec installed)
-Digital Media Converter (free watermarked version) seems to work to produce the DV AVI files (type II) but the quality is pretty low so not really wanting to pay $50 to use the low quality conversion -does the converter program have much to do with the quality of the output? It also produces a MPEG2 that seems a little better quality than the DV AVI file it produces.
-Prism does convert to a high quality AVI file that does output a really high quality file that plays in Media Player (latest version) but not in Premiere Pro CS4. Prism also converts to a WMV (windows media vid) that I can use on PP but is not quite the quality of the above noted AVI. This may be my best option???? Or is it a bad idea to use a compressed codec as wmv to edit and eventually output for the complete PP movie?
http://www.nchsoftware.com/prism/index.html
Any insight is very much appreciated. I must get on with my editing project!!! Thanks,
Aaron.

Jeff, thanks so much, but I'm still not quite there! Agreed, codec packs can be dangerous but apparently the DIVX one is OK!
So I downloaded the DIVX pack, and the VirtualDub did work and converted via VirtualDub to AVI,... then tried in PremierePro. Again no luck viewing... sound OK but the video freezes on the first frame or two. I can view those outputs in MediaPlayer or DIVX player though. So I tried rerunning the UT codec installer and the logarith but still can't view the outputs from VirtualDub in PP.
I tried (in VirtualDub) converting the previously converted AVI file I did in Prism converter and again, can see the output in PP (still minor artifacts here and there though).
?Maybe I should just be happy with a the DIVX converted to a .wmv file but I think I will be sacrificing quality on already pretty grainy footage that I'm inserting into a largely HD film project so kinda shotty?
Any more suggestions? The help is greatly appreciated!
Aaron.

What is the best photo paper 4'x6' for HP Officejet Pro 8500A Plus e-All-in-one Printer?

1.-HP Officejet Pro 8500A Plus e-All-in-One Printer
2.-OS: Windows 7-64
3.-No error messages
4.-No changes have been made
5.-I have been printing in my with old "hp premium plus glossyphoto paper" and getting very dark photos and too much wasted ink .
I've been using "hp premium plus glossy photo paper" and getting very dark photos.
Before this printer I used a Deskjet 5550 with the same paper and getting great quality.
Thank you. Luis Cuenca
This question was solved.
View Solution.

HI cuencaky,
Here is a link to a page with an example of good 4 X 6 photo paper you can use with your printer.
This type of paper is known to work very well.
If I helped you at all it would be great if you clicked the blue kudos star!
If I solved your post please mark it as solved to help others.
I'm a printer tech with HP.

What is the equivalent to ctrl- ult - delete for a mac pro

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