Which Macbook Air should i get? 11 or 13 inch model

Im 14 and i need a new computer. Mostly i use my computer for browsing, email, twitter, listening music, youtube and sometimes gaming. I like light laptops that i can when im in my bed, when im laying in sofa,... But now i cant decide what model should i get 11 or 13 inch model. I hope u guys can help me.
Jessica

Hi Jessica,
I think that the deciding factor concerning which size to get would be how you intend to use it. People who tote their macbooks around alot, such as sales people or executives (road warriors) and also students who need to take their computers to school, surely would benefit from the smaller 11inch version. In your case, if you are going to use it in a comfortable environment, such as in bed, or on the sofa, the larger 13inch model would be more beneficial,especially if you watch videos and play games fairly often. Even if you lug it around a little, to Starbucks or a friends house, or take it with you on vacation once in a while, I feel the larger model would be suitable for you.

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Which MacBook Air should I get? 13 inch or 11 inch

I want a MacBook Air for Reaktor 5, uploading videos to YouTube with iMovie, stuff I cannot do on my iPad, games (Assassins Creed, Bioshock), web browsing, etc. Should I get the Refurbished MacBook Air 11 inch 128gb SSD 4gb RAM intel core i7 2.0 ghz, or refurbished Macbook Air 13 inch 256gb SSD 4gb RAM intel core i5 1.8ghz. I am 12 years old so I need something more portable than the MacBook Pros.

If you can afford, buy a new MB Air 13-inch with 256 GB storage and 8GB RAM.
Otherwise go for "refurbished Macbook Air 13 inch 256gb SSD 4gb RAM intel core i5 1.8ghz".

Which MacBook Air should I get?

Somebody wants to buy me a MacBook Air as a present because I will be doing volunteer work starting in January helping some disabled people learn to use Macs on Sundays.
I wonder which I should get.
Does anybody know the difference between these two models (see screenshot - it's Japanese, but you should get the gist of it). One has 256 SSD and one has 256 "Flash Storage." What's the difference? Is one just an older model?
Should I add a little extra and go for a Pro model?
This would be a "2nd computer" for me for travel and when out of the office. My main computer is my iMac.
Opinions welcome!
Thanks,
Doug

Apple MacBook Air 13-inch (Mid 2013) MD760 / MD761
http://alatest.com/reviews/laptop-reviews/apple-macbook-air-md760ll-a-13-3-inch- laptop-newest-version/po3-200839803,30/
http://www.aido.com/eshop/cl_2-c_278-pr_10856-p_112-i_11652/computers/laptops-an d-netbooks/apple-laptops/new-apple-macbook-air-13.3-inch-led-laptop-md232.html#. UrJTEvbe6Xw
Network:Wi-Fi wireless networking (based on 802.11n specification, 802.11a/b/g compatible)
http://www.kogan.com/au/buy/apple-macbook-air-13-13ghz-i5-256gb-md761/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KMkrKnd70EE
You asked~~One has 256 SSD and one has 256 "Flash Storage."
Same thing, that just means the very same thing
Get the 2013 model much better
2013 differences:
2013 model has 802AC wifi, much faster
dual mics
cooler Haswell processor
longer battery life
id call Apple again to verify the models are the same, I dont speak Japanese, but from the pics, you can tell, because the 2012 dont have dual mics on the left side, 2013 does

Which Macbook Air should I go with?

I want to get an 11 inch Macbook Air, but do not know which one I should get. Do you think the $999 Air (1.6ghz i5 processor, 2GB memory, 64GB flash storage) will be efficient using final cut and adobe illustrator? I create small video clips/highlights, slideshows and edit photos for my job a lot. Or Should I get a more expensive air like the $1,199 (1.6ghz i5 processor, 4GB memory, 128GB flash storage)? Or even an upgraded Air with 1.8ghz, i7 processor, 256GB flash storage? I will NOT use this computer to store music or any other types of media other than short video clips and photos. I also have a large external hard drive to store any work I am finished with. I'm on the road a lot so I need something small. Thank you for your help!

Get a a model with 4gb of ram. You can't upgrade it once you've bought the laptop (it's soldered to the main board) and OS X Lion uses a lot of ram. 2gb will work, but it can become painfully slow at times, specially when you edit videos or photos.
The $1,199 model you quoted seems to be the best choice for what you need.

Which MacBook air should I buy??

I have 2 options for buying MacBook air?
1) 11 inch i7 4 GB Ram and 128 GB flash memory
2) 13 inch i5 4 GB Ram and 128 GB flash memory
Which laptop will best suit me for word excel PowerPoint and day to day office use. Would be replacing my desktop with the MacBook
Major difference in both the laptops and processor?

I would go with the larger 13" for excel and powerpoint. Also, an extra 4 Gig of ram is only an extra $100 and worth every penny.

Which MacBook Pro should I get?

I'm gonna do it. Question is, which one?
The 1.83 is $500 cheaper, which leaves some extra $$ for upgrading RAM, and going with the 100 GB 7200 rpm HD. I'm guessing the performance difference between the 1.83 and the 2.0 would be negligible. However, I noticed the 1.83 has 128 mb of video ram while the 2.0 has 256, and it's not possible to upgrade the 1.83. I'm wondering how significant this will be, especially since I use Aperture and from what I understand it relies heavily on the graphics chip.
What do you think? Should I go with the 1.83 or bit the bullet and get the 2.0?
Thanks...

Thanks for your feedback.
The question (and I think it's a valid one), is how much of a difference will the extra 128 MB on the video card and the .17 Ghz on the chips make? Will it be noticeable, or simply somethinig that can be measured by speed tests in a lab?
I know with G5 desktops for example I can't tell a huge difference in day-to-day usage between the dual 2.0 and the dual 2.3. The major speed bumps, in my experience, tend to come from hard drive speed, RAM and graphics chip.

Which Macbook Pro should i get for use with Solidworks?

I want to get a Macbook Pro but unsure whether to go for the higher end 13 inch or the lower end 15 inch.
I will be running Solidworks(CAD) a lot as im in my final year of an engineering degree.
Has anyone got either and had any problems etc?
Thanks

Yes, the MBP you've suggested will do fine with MainStage but at the same time, I'd recommend you getting the fastest machine you can realistically afford as MS is still a very resource-hungry beast.....especially once you get to know it and decide that you want to do extra stuff that you didn't originally intend to do with it!
I also run a MOTU Ultralite MK3 and can recommend this as a very good bang-for-buck interface.....especially the new hybrid model (which I don't have) that has both firewire AND USB. Apart from Apogee interfaces - which are apparently phenomenal (and phenomenally expensive!) - I've also heard extremely good things about the RME Fireface 400 and 800 interfaces.
But back to the MOTU Ultralite MK3: it has heaps of I/O, is half-rack space (so very portable), is bus-powered (with A/C option), has onboard DSP FX, the latency is very low, is easy to set up and use, and is quite affordable for what you're getting. And MOTU is pretty good with tech support and the drivers are very high quality. Can't go wrong, really.
The only other thing I'll mention about using a MBP is that having a decent screen size can really help if you're using it live at gigs. I have the current top of the line 17" model and really notice the screen size difference compared to friends who have the 13" or 15" models.....there's a HUGE difference in screen "real estate" with the 17" screen.
BTW, it's rumored that Apple will soon be announcing the next MBP models and so you may want to wait till the end of April before you decide to buy something.

Which Macbook pro should I get? 2.53 vs 2.66

Does anyone have a good reason to get the 2.66 over the 2.53 macbook pro?
Both are 15" both have 4GB ram
2.53 3MB cache:
250GB 5400RPM Hard drive.
Nvidia 9400M shared graphics.
1 fan
2.66 3MB cache:
320GB 5400RPM Hard drive.
Nvidia 9400M + 9600M GT (w/dedicated 256MB ram)
2 fans
I'm not a game player, I am not sure I'd see a huge speed increase (.13 ghz) and the extra 70GB isn't that enticing. So normally, I'd say it's not worth it, but I wonder if there's other apps that would make use of the 9600GT now that OpenCL has been included in 10.6
Thoughts please! Convince me to stay at 2.53 or move higher!

I'm always a proponent of more RAM for performance, but I'm using a late 2007 MBP 2.6 GHz with 4 Gig of RAM and feel that is sufficient for my needs. My biggest users of resources are 2 virtual machines (Fusion 2.0.6 right now, 3.0 within a month I'm planning). I also run XCode occassionally (mostly for iPhone, but sometimes for Mac). Also do some website development with MAMP Pro. To date I've never run low on RAM with this configuration.
For better Virtual Machine performance I would seriously consider an external drive. No matter how you slice it having 2 OSs use the same drive will create some resource contention. SSDs may pretty much eliminate that with near zero seek time, but it is my understanding SSD write performance is about the same as a 7200 RPM traditional disk.
What I did to speed up I/O was to purchase a RAID 0 external disk. I am currently using it via Firewire 800. Originally I was connecting it via eSATA (not an option for the newer 15" MBPs) which may have had a bit more performance, but not significant.
To me the more significant difference between the 2.53 & 2.66 models is the separate graphics card. With Snow Leopard being able to use the processing power in that card for general purposes you will likely see a greater performance difference than just the .13 GHz of the respective CPUs.
I always try to get the best non-upgradeable specs on a computer as I can afford. As you have implied at some point you can put in more memory or upgrade to a faster hard drive (whatever the technology at the time) but the CPU speed and graphics capabilities are fixed for the life of the computer.

Which Macbook Pro should I get (Iris Pro or no Iris Pro?)

I have an outdated MBP (2009) and want to get a newer one. I use it mostly for work --- web/editing images but expect to occasionally need to edit videos as related to my job.
I am looking at refurbished and it's between:
Refurbished 15.4-inch MacBook Pro 2.0GHz Quad-core Intel i7 with Retina Display for $1659. This one has Iris graphics
http://store.apple.com/us/product/FE...retina-display
or
Refurbished 15.4-inch MacBook Pro 2.3GHz Quad-core Intel i7 with Retina Display. No Iris Pro. $60 cheaper.
http://store.apple.com/us/product/FC...retina-Display
So, I guess my question is do I need Iris Pro for my purposes? I don't know much about computers but it looks like the processor on the one with Iris Pro Graphics is slower. Is that right?
Thanks.

I would choose the first one.

When i download a pdf on MacBook Air all I get is the spinning pinwheel which never stops

When I download a pdf on MacBook Air all i get is the spinning colored pinwheel which never stops. Eventually I have to force quit.

Hi
What Macbook Air model and operating system are you running.
Cheers

My MacBook Air can't get past the gray screen with the apple logo. What's the fix?

My MacBook Air can't get past the gray screen with the Apple logo, so I can't login. Does anyone know the fix for this?

Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
Step 1
The first step in dealing with a boot failure is to secure your data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since your last backup, you can skip this step.
There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to boot. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
a. Boot into Recovery by holding down the key combination command-R at the startup chime, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) Release the keys when you see a gray screen with a spinning dial. When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in the support article linked below, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.”
How to back up and restore your files
b. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, boot the non-working Mac in target disk mode by holding down the key combination command-T at the startup chime. Connect the two Macs with a FireWire or Thunderbolt cable. The internal drive of the machine running in target mode will mount as an external drive on the other machine. Copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
How to use and troubleshoot FireWire target disk mode
c. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
Step 2
Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to boot, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can boot now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
Before reconnecting an external storage device, make sure that your internal boot volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
Step 3
Boot in safe mode.* The instructions provided by Apple are as follows:
Shut down your computer, wait 30 seconds, and then hold down the shift key while pressing the power button.
When you see the gray Apple logo, release the shift key.
If you are prompted to log in, type your password, and then hold down the shift key again as you click Log in.
Safe mode is much slower to boot and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know your login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
*Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the boot volume is a software RAID, you can’t boot in safe mode. Post for further instructions.
When you boot in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, your boot volume is damaged and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to step 5.
If you can boot and log in now, reboot as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.) If the boot process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
Step 4
Sometimes a boot failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
Step 5
Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see above for instructions.) Select your startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it produces. Look for the line "Permissions repaired successfully" at the end of the output. Then reboot as usual.
Step 6
Boot into Recovery again. When the OS X Utilities screen appears, follow the prompts to reinstall the OS. If your Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
Note: You need an always-on Ethernet or Wi-Fi connection to the Internet to use Recovery. It won’t work with USB or PPPoE modems, or with proxy servers, or with networks that require a certificate for authentication.
Step 7
Repeat step 6, but this time erase the boot volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically reboot into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer your data from a backup.
Step 8
If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store to have the machine tested.

My macbook air won't get past the white apple screen. I've tried power cycling the batter but won't help

my macbook air won't get past the white apple screen. I've tried power cycling the batter but won't help

Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
Step 1
The first step in dealing with a startup failure is to secure the data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since the last backup, you can skip this step.
There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to start. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
a. Start up from the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.” The article refers to starting up from a DVD, but the procedure in Recovery mode is the same. You don't need a DVD if you're running OS X 10.7 or later.
b. If Step 1a fails because of disk errors, and no other Mac is available, then you may be able to salvage some of your files by copying them in the Finder. If you already have an external drive with OS X installed, start up from it. Otherwise, if you have Internet access, follow the instructions on this page to prepare the external drive and install OS X on it. You'll use the Recovery installer, rather than downloading it from the App Store.
c. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, start the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
d. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
Step 2
If the startup process stops at a blank gray screen with no Apple logo or spinning "daisy wheel," then the startup volume may be full. If you had previously seen warnings of low disk space, this is almost certainly the case. You might be able to start up in safe mode even though you can't start up normally. Otherwise, start up from an external drive, or else use the technique in Step 1b, 1c, or 1d to mount the internal drive and delete some files. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of available space on the startup volume (as shown in the Finder Info window) for normal operation.
Step 3
Sometimes a startup failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
Step 4
If you use a wireless keyboard, trackpad, or mouse, replace or recharge the batteries. The battery level shown in the Bluetooth menu item may not be accurate.
Step 5
If there's a built-in optical drive, a disc may be stuck in it. Follow these instructions to eject it.
Step 6
Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to start up, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can start up now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
Step 7
If you've started from an external storage device, make sure that the internal startup volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
Start up in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the startup volume is a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to start and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know the login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
When you start up in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, the startup volume is corrupt and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to Step 11. If you ever have another problem with the drive, replace it immediately.
If you can start and log in in safe mode, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on the startup volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then restart as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
If the startup process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
Step 8
Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select the startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then restart as usual.
Step 9
If the startup device is an aftermarket SSD, it may need a firmware update and/or a forced "garbage collection." Instructions for doing this with a Crucial-branded SSD were posted here. Some of those instructions may apply to other brands of SSD, but you should check with the vendor's tech support.
Step 10
Reinstall the OS. If the Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
Step 11
Do as in Step 9, but this time erase the startup volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically restart into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer the data from a Time Machine or other backup.
Step 12
This step applies only to models that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery: all Mac Pro's and some others (not current models.) Both desktop and portable Macs used to have such a battery. The logic-board battery, if there is one, is separate from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a startup failure. Typically the failure will be preceded by loss of the settings for the startup disk and system clock. See the user manual for replacement instructions. You may have to take the machine to a service provider to have the battery replaced.
Step 13
If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service provider.

When I run multiple Microsoft powerpoint files at a time on my MacBook Air, it simply gets hotter and generates little noise (most probably fan noise). Will this make any effect on life span of MBAir??

When I run multiple Microsoft powerpoint files at a time on my MacBook Air, it simply gets hotter and generates little noise (most probably fan noise). Will this make any effect on life span of MBAir??

Theoretically, yes.
Heat, and heat cycling certainly do take a toll on even solid state components. I have several "very old" Macintosh computers, and the logic boards exhibit the effects.
The fan too, running at higher speeds, does eventually cause wear. More than anything, the higher airflow leads to a higher propensity for dust accumulation on the fan, and the heat exchangers.
In practical terms though, maybe not so much. If you plan on having your computer exhibit a reasonable useful life before you retire it or upgrade, you may never experience any of the detrimental effects. I rarely use a computer longer than 3 years, before I sell, give it away, or just stop using it.
Personally, I wouldn't worry about it. Your computer is well designed to give you a long life, even in the manner in which you describe. Take care of it, but use it for what you bought it for. Nothing you mention is in any way, abuse.

I lost App store app on my macbook air.can i get it now?

i lost App store app on my macbook air.can i get it now?

Are you running with Snow Leopard 10.6.5 as your profile suggests.   If so you should not be able to get to the App Store.   So what do you have?
You need Snow Leopard update 10.6.8.   Mac OS X 10.6.8 Update Combo v1.1
Once you have that I don't see why not.   Check your purchase listing.   If it is there you can download again free.

My macbook air is not getting internet connection through our home wifi It was working fine yesterday until I took the Air out of the house and used it on another wifi connection.

My macbook air is not getting internet connection through our home wifi. It was working fine yesterday until I took the Air out of the house and used it on another wifi connection. One question is how to delete some of the networks that I don't use. Would too many networks cause the internet connection to fail?
Thanks.

Would too many networks cause the internet connection to fail?
It shouldn't but sometimes deleting the list of networks actually does solve the problem you are describing. Have you turned WiFi off and then back on on the computer?

Which Macbook Air should i get? 11 or 13 inch model

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