Which UPS System for MacPro 3.33GHz?

I will be getting a Mac Pro 3.33GHz soon, and need to find the right UPS System. I will be connecting the Mac Pro and an external HD to the UPS system.
I want to have a UPS system that will provide protection for the above devices, with enough protection to spare for several other devices (a second external HD, iBook G4, and an older computer, SE/30)
Also, I need a UPS system that will automatically save, then shut down, for times I'm not at the computer during a power outage.
Any suggestions? I'd like to keep the price around $200-300 if possible.
I called the Apple Store to find out what the Wattage would be on the MacPro 3.33 GHz, but they weren't sure. The technician said it should be somewhere between 600-800 Watts.
I'm looking at this UPS system:
APC BACK-UPS RS 1300VA LCD 120V
Any suggestions?

The APC SMART 1300VA or RS1500VA would be top of the list. Even CyberPower 1500VA $189.
I added a 1hr battery pack to RS1500, a feature not available on 1300VA model which gave 75 minutes, enough for when installing or doing something that I couldn't quit and would take 20 minutes.
I'd get a small UPS for the peripherals - that is what I do, modem, peripherals, one lamp even.
It isn't just the 865W possible, or that Nehalem Xeon can really have higher peak, or that you may use GTX 285 or ATI 5000, you also need to take into account extreme inrush current and on boot or wake from sleep that all Mac Pros suffer from.
I'd wait and hope that Intel and Apple release 2010 Mac Pro hex-core Gulftowns if you need what it seems like.
There actually isn't a huge difference between 2.66 vs 2.93 vs 3.33 but Gulftown should be more powerful "tock" - and after a year.

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Hi All,
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I was thinking 5.1 surround but read that Apple does not support this (but then I got confused on if they do or not?)!!!
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Advice much appreciated
Andrew

I have a set of Klipsch THX certified ProMedia 5.1 Desktop speakers (very hard to get hold of in the U.K), connected to a Creative Digital Decoder (DDTS-100) which is connected through Optical out from my Mac Pro.
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APC has a BackUPS ES series which is an affordable line (compared to the other models). I emailed APC tech support and they recommend that I get the APC SmartUPS 750VA. Here's a reply from APC tech support on why BackUPS ES isn't recommended:
"For the Mac system, they have very sensitive power supply box. If you have a Back UPS to back up your iMac, it is really not compatible as the UPS does not supply a sine wave at the output supply when its on battery. This might be dangerous for your Mac if the UPS is supplying power to your Mac when on battery mode."
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I've been running an APC BE 325 on my iMac G5 for the last 8 months. While it provides minimal back up time (6-7 min.) the audible alarm gives me time to shut down properly. Got it a WalMart for $35.
More importantly to me, it affords a greater degree of lightning protection. Here in the Tampa area we tend to get very short blackouts during thunderstorms that last a second or two. Those combined with lightning voltage spike give me reason to worry about the quality of my power supply
I would guess APC is just C.T.A. when they say the iMac powersupplies are fickle. They don't want any blame for any of the known iMac G5 power supply problems.
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How did you guys set up your hard drives:
which (MacPro)hard-drive configuration is recommended for best Aperture performance & safety:
- does Raid 0 speed up Aperture?
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Grischa RÜSCHENDORF wrote:
How did you guys set up your hard drives:
which (MacPro)hard-drive configuration is recommended for best Aperture performance & safety:
- does Raid 0 speed up Aperture?
- are Raid Levels for data recovery still needed with Time-machine and Aperture's Vault?
any help would be greatly appreciated
Grisha,
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Many people would recommend separate partitions for Boot and data, others recommend against RAID for the Boot partition.
I have an internal 750Gb drive for Time Machine and my primary Aperture vault. (when my 1Tb array exceeds 750Gb capacity, then I'll add another 750Gb drive to create a 1.5TB time Machine drive).
I have an external 320Gb external drive as my tertiary Aperture vault plus it holds a copy of my directory. I keep this at work and update every 2 weeks or so.
You still need backup with RAID. RAID covers you for physical drive failure (not RAID-0, which actually increases your exposure to this), but offers no protection against data corruption, accidentally deleted files etc etc.
Regards,
Steve

UPS suggestions for small office

I have four Mac Pro workstations and recently experienced a power outage. Two designers lost about an hours work each. Finally decided to bite the bullet and buy UPS systems for all the workstations. Any suggestions?
All are Mac Pro stations with 26" LCD monitors, external 500g hard drives (one station has 3 backup 1 terabyte drives for video). I only need these to run 15-30 minutes after an outage to save the files.
Any recommendations would be appreciated!
Thanks!

Insure that you are running off a circuit that can handle the load. Adding 4 UPS of 1500VA won't help, and to have 20-30 minutes, I went with an extra battery pack which added 1 hr (now have 75 minutes but there are times when even 15 minutes isn't enough, and 40 minutes was more realistic).
But you probably want to look at something that would cover patch into your electrical circuit(s) more than just add stand alone units for each. That would be cheaper and easier, under $2k, but a large rackmount that would provide 3000VA costing $8k and up (more like $12k) is what I would contemplate.
http://configurator.apcc.com/products/powerstruxure/configurator/PSX_Config.cfm

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Mac mini (Early 2009 or later)
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8 GB or more of available space
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Which Operating system is best for jdeveloper 11.1.2.3?

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I am using jdev 11.1.1.2.3
Now i am using Oracle Linux operating system for jdev 11.1.2.3 some browser compatabilities arraised
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What is the best 'cleaning system' for the Mac?

What do you recommend as the best 'cleaning system' for the Mac!

How to maintain a Mac
Make two or more backups of all your files
One backup is not enough to be safe. A copy of a backup doesn't count as another backup; all backups must be made directly from the original data.
Keep at least one backup off site at all times in case of disaster. Backing up to a cloud-data service is one way to accomplish this, but don't rely exclusively on such backups.
In fact, don’t rely exclusively on any single backup method, such as Time Machine.
If you get an indication that a backup has failed, don't ignore it.
Keep your software up to date
In the App Store or Software Update preference pane (depending on the OS version), you can configure automatic notifications of updates to OS X and other Mac App Store products. Some third-party applications from other sources have a similar feature, if you don’t mind letting them phone home. Otherwise you have to check yourself on a regular basis.
Keeping up to date is especially important for complex software that modifies the operating system, such as device drivers. Don't install such modifications unless they're absolutely necessary. Remove them when they are no longer needed. Before installing any Apple update, you must check that all system modifications that you use are compatible. Incompatibility with third-party software is by far the most common cause of difficulties with system updates.
Don't install crapware
...such as “themes,” "haxies," “add-ons,” “toolbars,” “enhancers," “optimizers,” “accelerators,” "boosters," “extenders,” “cleaners,” "doctors," "tune-ups," “defragmenters,” “firewalls,” "barriers," “guardians,” “defenders,” “protectors,” most “plugins,” commercial "virus scanners,” "disk tools," or "utilities." With very few exceptions, such stuff is useless or worse than useless. Above all, avoid any software that purports to change the look and feel of the user interface.
It's not much of an exaggeration to say that the whole "utility" software industry for the Mac is a fraud on consumers. The most extreme examples are the "CleanMyMac," "TuneUpMyMac," and “MacKeeper” scams, but there are many others.
As a rule, you should avoid software that changes the way other software works. Plugins for Photoshop and similar programs are an obvious exception to this rule. Safari extensions, and perhaps the equivalent for other web browsers, are a partial exception. Most are safe, and they're easy to get rid of if they don't work. Some may cause the browser to crash or otherwise malfunction. Some are malicious. Use with caution, and install only well-known extensions from relatively trustworthy sources, such as the Safari Extensions Gallery.
Only install software that is useful to you, not (as you imagine) to the computer. For example, a word processor is useful for writing. A video editor is useful for making movies. A game is useful for fun. But a "cache cleaner" isn't useful for anything. You didn't buy a computer so you could clean caches.
Never install any third-party software unless you know how to uninstall it. Otherwise you may create problems that are very hard to solve. Do not rely on "utilities" such as "AppCleaner" and the like that purport to remove software.
Don't install bad, conflicting, or unnecessary fonts
Whenever you install new fonts, use the validation feature of the built-in Font Book application to make sure the fonts aren't defective and don't conflict with each other or with others that you already have. See the built-in help and this support article for instructions.
Deactivate or remove fonts that you don't really need to speed up application launching.
Avoid malware
"Malware" is malicious software that circulates on the Internet. This kind of attack on OS X was once so rare that it was hardly a concern, but it's now increasingly common and dangerous.
There is some built-in protection against malware, but you can’t rely on it—the attackers are always at least one day ahead of the defense. You can’t rely on third-party "anti-virus" products for protection either. What you can rely on is common-sense awareness—not paranoia, which only makes you more vulnerable.
Never install software from an untrustworthy or unknown source. If in doubt, do some research. Any website that prompts you to install a “codec” or “plugin” that comes from the same site, or an unknown site, is untrustworthy. Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must come directly from the developer's website. No intermediary is acceptable, and don’t trust links unless you know how to parse them. Any file that is automatically downloaded from the web, without your having requested it, should go straight into the Trash. A web page that tells you that your computer has a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with it, is a scam.
In OS X 10.7.5 or later, downloaded applications and Installer packages that have not been digitally signed by a developer registered with Apple are blocked from loading by default. The block can be overridden, but think carefully before you do so.
Because of recurring security issues in Java, it’s best to disable it in your web browsers, if it’s installed. Few websites have Java content nowadays, so you won’t be missing much. This action is mandatory if you’re running any version of OS X older than 10.6.8 with the latest Java update. Note: Java has nothing to do with JavaScript, despite the similar names. Don't install Java unless you're sure you need it. Most people don't.
Don't fill up your disk or SSD
A common mistake is adding more and more large files to your home folder until you start to get warnings that you're out of space, which may be followed in short order by a startup failure. This is more prone to happen on the newer Macs that come with an internal SSD instead of the traditional hard drive. The drive can be very nearly full before you become aware of the problem.
While it's not true that you should or must keep any particular percentage of space free, you should monitor your storage use and make sure you're not in immediate danger of using it up. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of free space on the startup volume for normal operation.
If storage space is running low, use a tool such as OmniDiskSweeper to explore the volume and find out what's taking up the most space. Move seldom-used large files to secondary storage.
Relax, don’t do it
Besides the above, no routine maintenance is necessary or beneficial for the vast majority of users; specifically not “cleaning caches,” “zapping the PRAM,” "resetting the SMC," “rebuilding the directory,” "defragmenting the drive," “running periodic scripts,” “dumping logs,” "deleting temp files," “scanning for viruses,” "purging memory," "checking for bad blocks," "testing the hardware," or “repairing permissions.” Such measures are either completely pointless or are useful only for solving problems, not for prevention.
To use a Mac effectively, you have to free yourself from the Windows mindset that every computer needs regular downtime for maintenance such as "defragging" and "registry cleaning." Those concepts do not apply to the Mac platform.
A well-designed computing device is not something you should have to think about much. It should be an almost transparent medium through which you communicate, work, and play. If you want a machine that needs a lot of attention just to keep going, use a PC, or collect antique cars.
The very height of futility is running an expensive third-party application called “Disk Warrior” when nothing is wrong, or even when something is wrong and you have backups, which you must have. Disk Warrior is a data-salvage tool, not a maintenance tool, and you will never need it if your backups are adequate. Don’t waste money on it or anything like it.

Which UPS on an Apple PowerMac G4

I am supporting a design office which has 3 Apple Macs.
They have frequent power outages so I have been asked to supply UPSs for them.
On 1 of them I have put on a Gamatronic 750va. This supports the PowerMac, its monitor (regular CRT) and the router/hub for their network.
Another system I put on an Advice UPS 1000va which only just supports the computer.
I am having real trouble finding a UPS that is enough for the last system:
PowerMac G4 (Serial: ***********)
Apple Cinema Display 22"
A 1000va does not seem to be enough to support. When testing, the power goes immediately. Even without the display, the power does not hold for more than a few seconds. I have checked and the battery is fully charged.
I need to know what power UPS I need to protect this system for 5-10 mins.
Thanks

This should meet your needs: http://www.apc.com/resource/include/techspecindex.cfm?basesku=BR1500
Quad ◊ 8.5 GB RAM ◊ 7800GT ◊ 30" ACD ◊ Mac OS X (10.4.8)

ATI Radeon X1900 XT only for MacPro?

I Just noticed this this morning at Apple's Online Store ( US )
"ATI Radeon X1900 XT Graphics Upgrade Kit US$ 399.00"
I wonder if this will work in the G5 with Dual Cores ( and Quad ) PCIe ?

Ok thanks Jewell, What a Bugger eh?
X800XT for PCI-X G5's and ATI Radeon X1900 XT for MacPro's and nothing for the PCI-E last generation G5's! (unless you BTO).
I have seen your posts here about the lack of video card upgrades for the Quad, and I feel for you ... it's got to be exasperating !!
It will not unfortunately. Its to do with the way
video cards are recognised by the host system and the
x1900 is for MacPro only.
However.
Joe Schorr has confirmed in these forums that ATI
will be releasing a dual-core G5 edition of the x1900
(?) card which would finally make this Apple's first
video upgrade card since the dual-core G5 (quads)
were launched in October 05. Way to go Apple...
I read your repost of it.
-Robert

UPS solution for iMac 27"

I'm considering the 27" iMac which I note from the Specs has a maximum draw of 365W.
I want to protect my system from power failure particularly when I've left the iMac unattended and it is either syncing with MobileMe or Time Machine or rendering video. I'm worried that a power failure during any of these tasks might result in data corruption or physical damage.
Taking that into account I think I need a UPS unit that can power the iMac, a 2TB external harddrive, an Airport Extreme and a cable modem.
I can't see to find wattage figures for anything other than the iMac so I'm struggling to know how expensive a UPS system I need.
Also, is the iMac likely to be drawing the full 365W under the circumstances I've outlined above?
Sorry for the long post but any help anyone can provide would be really helpful.

I believe they have some type of calculator on their site where you enter your requirements and it advises you which one might suit your needs. Whether it suits your needs financially may be a different story. Good Luck.

Which UPS System for MacPro 3.33GHz?

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