Who is living with their gradient?

I just decided to take the plunge and pick up a new 24" imac after I returned my old back in November one due to the unevenness of the colors.
Well, I picked up a new one from best buy and sure enough, there's a little bit of gradient and a very slight yellowing in the middle. No bad pixels though.
I'm starting to wonder though, I'm really tired of being so anal about this. I'm not a graphics person.
My question is, is there anyone else out there who is in my position, where you exchanged a few of these alu 24" imacs just to keep getting the same problems? I still have 14 days, but I'm sure I'll just end up with another one. It honestly doesn't really bother me that much and I sure as **** know I'm not the only one with it. Thanks.

I will most likely keep mine, only because I tested 5 at the apple store and 1 at best buy and all had the same exact issue. Granted, it seemed better than my old one, but every single one I have seen has had the slightly lighter left side. I've seen this consistently and yet to see one that is even on both sides.
My guess is that, for the money, this is still excellent. Again, it doesn't bug me. If it gets worse though, I'll refund it, as the same apple rep who sold me this imac sold me the last imac that I returned (for the same reason and a broken DVI port) as well as my first macbook, and he knows of the issue himself.
The screen is gorgeous though :-D I thought my Samsung screens at work were nice, until I came into work this morning and realized how crappy they are in comparison to my imac :-D

Similar Messages

Who is Happy with their Apple Bluetooth? (the brand name one)

I am very pleased with it and I was wondering who else has had good experiences/ found neat things about it.

I am quite happy with my Apple iPhone Bluetooth headset. No noise and the range is solid to about 10 feet with a noisy connection out to about 15 feet. I have noticed that when carrying in my pocket or my Incase leather belt case that I do have range problems if the antenna is facing toward my body rather than away from my body. The antenna is on the dock connector end and is covered with the black plastic piece.
Carry with the glass face toward your body and that will take care of it. I also have a Motorola HS300 and their range is quite similar but the Motorola has more clicks and pops. The Apple has been quite noise free. I have even used it while riding the bicycle and wind noise has not been a problem unless riding into the wind.
A friend of mine in Florida received his this week and uses it regularly on iChat with an Intel iMac. He had been using a Jawbone but the Jawbone is not as clear as the Jawbone when talking to him. The range is about the same between the two on the iMac.
These are the only two I am personally aware of but both of us are quite happy with them. He uses his with his iMac and I use mine with my iPhone.

So is there anyone on here who is HAPPY with their ipod classic?

i recently purchased a 160gb ipod classic (the black model) and i'm thinking about returning it based upon the overwhelming negative posts i've read about it on here. i still have not removed the item from its packaging so have not yet experienced either good or bad results. i already own a 30 and 80gb 5th gen which have both proven totally reliable but i'll need to sell them both in order to cover the $350 expense of the classic. with all of the horror stories i've read on here about the classic, i'm thinking of taking it back and just sticking with my trusty ol' 5th gens. any advice?

Jeff,
I am happy with mine, but
1) it's my first,
2) I can afford it, and
3) I'm basing my opinion on my own experience, rather than that of a discussions board.
I'm a little lost as to how you could buy one if you can't afford it, why you'd get one when you already have two, and how you could buy one without opening it. If I were you, I'd take it back, but then, I may not have bought it in the first place, or at least not until I had sold the others.
Good luck,
Tim

For all those who have trouble with their router. STICCY THIS!

1.) Clicc HERE
(ftp://ftp.linksys.com/pub/network/)
and download the file named "tftp.exe".
2.) Clicc HERE and download YOUR, AND I REPEAT YOUR AND I MUST REPEAT AGAIN, YOUR ROUTER'S LATEST FIRMWARE. Please for the love a God, Allah, Jah, or whoever you look up to. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE DOWNLOAD THE RIGHT FIRMWARE. If you don't know what version or model router you have, look at your router's home page or you can actually look at your router with your eye. Voila! You now know your router's model/version. Download the lastest firmware for your router.
-----------------------**IMPORTANT**------------------------------------------------*************-------------------------
It is strongly suggested that you remove all connections from your router except the one for the computer you are using! Not removing the other connections from the router can cause a corrupted firmware, and the dreaded flashing diag light.
3.) Double clicc on/open up the TFTP.exe file. Enter your password (admin if you haven't changed it), use the browse feature to find the (latest)firmware you just downloaded. Then, click on "upgrade". You should see a progress bar, then the message that you have successfully upgraded your router.

I have a WRT54G ver.6. It works perfectly with a windowns PC but not for my Mac. I have high signal but no internet. Do you know if this model is not compatible with Macs? thank you Simone

I bought a used iPhone on ebay. when I try to activate it, I get a message that the owner needs to sign in to the device with their appleID and password. I have no way of knowing who the owner is. How can I get around this?

I bought a used iPhone on ebay. when I try to activate it, I get a message that the owner needs to sign in to the device with their appleID and password. I have no way of knowing who the owner is. How can I get around this?

Check the eBay listing. Did it state the device was Activation Locked? If not, then make a claim as Meg stated and get a refund. You will not be able to activate the phone and no one can help you contact the owner, unless that is the person that sold the device. If they cannot remove the phone from their account because it is not theirs, then refund is your route. Even Apple cannot assist with locating the previous owner.

Please add the option to be able to upload/link new pdfs with the in-browser editing. I have a restaurant client who is constantly updating their menu! Please help so they can do this themselves!

Please add the option to be able to upload/link new pdfs with the in-browser editing. I have a restaurant client who is constantly updating their menu! Please help so they can do this themselves!

Thank you so much for your help! I am so relieved. I will have explain how to do this to my client, but a big weight is off my back!
A long learning process and actually such an easy fix. So glad you responded. Again thank you...

Should I buy airport express, extreme or time capsule? I have my new Mac Pro. 2 iPhones, 2 iPads , and grandchildren who come with their devices. I live in a two-level house.

Should I buy airport express, extreme or time capsule? I have my new Mac Pro. 2 iPhones, 2 iPads , and grandchildren who come with their devices. I live in a two-level house.

A Time Capsule is an AirPort Extreme with a built in hard drive to allow your Mac(s) to back up automatically, so it's a logical choice if you need a wireless router and back up capabilities for your Macs
The AIrPort Extreme has a bit better antenna arrangement than an AirPort Express, so it would be a good choice for a two level house.
Depending on the location of the "main" wireless router, you may find that you still need to add an extender or two in other parts of the house for full, fast wireless coverage. The AirPort Express is a good choice for this duty.
To compare the 3 Apple devices, see this Apple support document:
Compare Apple Wi-Fi base stations AirPort Express AirPort Extreme Time Capsule

Who HAS NOT had problems with their PM G5?

After reading tonnes of posts of problems; who HAS NOT had any problems with their PM G5?
What kind of Maint do you do it (if any).
And when did you buy your PM G5?
Message was edited by: PowermacRules

Mine was a refurbished unit that I bought in January(?) 2004. I was a bit nervous buying a 'used' system. But it proved unfounded. I remember visiting these forums in 04/05 and seeing lots of angry posts about DoA G5s and a laundry list of issues. But mine was completely rock solid from day one. It was a real work horse never had a single issue. Until last week. From what people are saying in and outside these forums. I suspect that it's only a matter of time before all or most G5s eventually fail with faulty logic boards or processors. At least let's say, I don't expect to see them still running in 10 years from now, like a lot of previous generation Macs do.

Is there a way to create a PDF form that ANYONE can fill out and SAVE with their content?

Is there a way to create a PDF form that ANYONE can fill out and SAVE with their content? By anyone, I mean someone who can download and use the free Adobe Reader, on either a Mac or PC. I have Acrobat Pro, and would like to be able to create forms that can not only be filled out and printed, but saved and emailed, which is not an option with the forms I have created to date. They can be filled out, but not saved, with Adobe Reader.
TIA,
Nancy

To do what Dave indicated you need to do, it depends on what version of Acrobat you have:
Acrobat 8: Advanced > Enable Usage Rights in Adobe Reader
Acrobat 9: Advanced > Extend Features in Adobe Reader
Acrobat 10: File > Save As > Reader Extended PDF > Enable Additional Features
Acrobat 11: File > Save as Other > Reader Extended PDF > Enable More Tools (includes form fill-in & save)
I wonder what it will be next time?

LIVING WITH A W-540

Lenovo W-540 Review
Note: This review was originally written for the W-540 sales page, but it was way too long to be accepted. I am posting it here, hoping it will provide something of a guide for those interested in this computer. The intention is to post a short review on the sales page, with instructions for navigating to this complete version.
dlane_W540
INTRODUCTION
I’ve been using my W-540 for about five weeks now, so I think I have enough experience with it to make some comments. I decided on a W-series when the W-530 was current. I was happily using a T410i (my 4th Lenovo laptop) until increasingly heavy Photoshop work slowed it down to the point that I was falling asleep watching it crank away. The W-540 replaced the W-530 in the Lenovo line-up as I was considering what to do, so I started watching for reviews. At that time there were only 5 of them on the web site—most seemed to be from power users who had issues with…well...anything that was different from their favorite older model. I was surprised to see such inflexibility among professionals when it came to new stuff. On the other hand, it is not hard to understand resistance to having to deal with a new thought process in order to accomplish the same tasks that were coming automatically before.
While I am not a programmer or cad cam user, I spend much of each day in front of a computer keyboard. So, instead of pretending to be an expert, I will try to speak for those who just need a fast, configurable computer with a top-flight screen, and who are willing to deal with a learning curve to get used to it. This, then, will look at my experience with the computer in light of comments I read on the web—a review of reviews, so to speak. Later on, I’d also like to offer some advice for configuring the unit.
For reference, my W-540 has the i7-4800MQ chip, the K2100 video card, and the IPS high res screen (with the color sensor). It also has an SSD main drive, and a 500GB hard drive in the Ultrabay. I’m running Windows 7, with 16GB of memory.
THE CASE
It is clear that the current line of Lenovo laptops have as design goals light weight and compact dimensions relative to their screen sizes. They went with a “carbon fiber reinforced plastic” material, so I’m not surprised that it is thin and a bit more bendy in spots than the older units. This 15-inch computer (with a number pad) weighs only 4 oz. more than my 14-inch T410i. The guts of both are mounted to a magnesium structure frame. The lighter weight is welcome, and after a few weeks of traveling with the computer I am confident that it is a sturdy and robust design. The case surfaces at first feel a bit odd to the touch, and look to be thin, but the workmanship is excellent. The whole idea with carbon fiber is to add strength without needing thickness and weight, so what first concerned me is now a source of pleasure.
THE KEYBOARD
There are some gripes about the keyboard out there. Some can’t accommodate the reality that to include a number pad, the qwerty part has to be offset to the left. Just align your fingers to the ridges on the F and J keys, or to the eraser head, or two the ridge on the down arrow. In writing this review, I’ve gone from finding the off-set position to be slightly irritating, to not noticing it at all.
Key spacing and feel seem fine to me. I work with at least two different keyboards during an average day, so again, it’s just something you get used to. The Delete, Backspace, Home, and End keys are in very different positions from the T410i, which is taking some learning on my part. It could well be that these are the new “standard” positions for these keys on 15” Lenovos.
I read a review that downgraded the machine because the keys were sticking. The reviewer also mentioned that the end panel did not fit well. The fix for the sticking keys is on the web—just re-setting the position of the keyboard bezel. I have a hunch it got knocked out of place during shipping—probably the same event that knocked the end panel out of whack. No problem with mine.
NIGHT LIGHT
Older ThinkPads had a nice night-light mounted next to the camera on the lid. In contrast, the keys on the W-540 are lit from below. Either style serves the purpose, although I happen to like the lid-mounted light better, since it would also light the touch pad, and my fingers. That said, the characters “printed” on the surface of the keys now have to actually go all the way through the surface (and be translucent) to allow the light to come through from the underneath. Thus, I would imagine the key’s characters will never wear out.
FUNCTION KEYS
I read some complaints about the row of function keys. A one-finger click now activates the icons on the keys (brightness, volume, Wi-Fi, etc.) You must press the Fn key to access the traditional F1 to F12 functions. It’s backwards to what I’m used to. The Fn key can be locked, though, giving you the standard one-touch access to F1-F12. A light shows on the key when locked, and the lock holds through a re-boot. So, if your software relies heavily on function keys, the computer can respond traditionally. On the other hand, there are some neat things available on the function keys. You have one click access to Control Panel, to the “computer” screen, to your list of active programs, and to the windows “search” function. For general use I leave the computer as is, with the icons on the function keys active. I use function keys frequently in Photoshop, so I lock the Fn key down when I boot that program.
HARD DRIVE ACTIVITY LIGHT
There is much hand-wringing about the lack of a light telling when the hard drive is spinning. When I read about it I was sure it would be a major irritation, but I’ve only noticed it once since working with the machine. It seems almost everything has some sort of “wait” graphic these days—a spinning circle, or something. Besides, this thing has an SSD for a main drive. It is very fast to accomplish things, so the value of a light to indicate that the computer is working (when nothing else is changing on screen) is questionable.
NUMLOCK AND CAPSLOCK
NumLock and CapsLock have icons that appear (and hold) on screen when those keys are activated. I suppose if you use software that is active in the bottom right-hand corner of the screen, AND requires a lot of numeric entry there (or full caps text) it could be an issue. Someone in a review mentioned the icon covers part of the scroll bar in a particular app, but it is not one I use. Besides, if you use the touch pad as intended, you will never have to navigate to a scroll bar. Hard to figure why they didn’t just add little lights to the keys, though.
THE TOUCH PAD – OH MY!
Of all the features on the W-540 the touch pad has generated the most controversy, so I’d like to spend some time discussing it. There are five “button functions” now integrated into a single touch pad. The top three are for the eraser head, and the bottom two are for the touch pad. Having to tilt a big touch pad, as opposed to pressing a much smaller button, certainly takes more energy. It feels more clunky and noisy than the old system, which seems to be irritating the Lenovo faithful who were hoping the W-540 would be essentially a W-530 with the latest processors, and a cutting edge feature set.
For those preferring the touch pad, there are no markings where the buttons used to be. Even worse for traditionalists, the lower left corner of the touch pad is active for moving the cursor, so when you hit that same spot to left-click, the cursor tends to move about a half inch on screen—enough to get you the wrong menu item. The expert reviewers appeared to assume this was some sort of defect which rendered the W-540 unacceptable. I think they are missing the point. The new machine offers more inputting options through the touch pad than the old ones, so it has potential of being faster to work with—but only if the user is willing to learn a couple of new tricks, and to tailor the software to support them.
The larger touch pad has a nice feel to it, and a huge variety of adjustments in the “mouse” menu. You can left and right click in silence with one and two-finger taps on the touch pad. You can enlarge the screen image (or the reverse) with pinching motions as you would on a cell phone. You can also scroll with a slow, two-fingered swipe.   Finally, a double tap anchors the cursor for dragging. So, in use, there is no need for traditional touch pad left or right buttons, and, with silent taps, you can work unobtrusively. All of this works nicely with software like Photoshop. However, as delivered (and depending on the size and shape of your hands) word processing can be a problem.
I have read comments about the cursor jumping around. It happens when typing as your hands rub over the touch pad. This was not a problem with previous models. The touch pad on those was an inch narrower, so even larger hands missed it. It may take some experimenting to get rid of it, but you have plenty of tools to work with. There is a software adjustment to make the touchpad insensitive to something larger than a finger. Another adjustment varies the touch pad’s sensitivity to finger pressure. Still further adjustments allow you to desensitize the areas of the touch pad your hands are likely to activate—giving the same effect as a smaller touch pad. My large hands tend to hover across the top corners of the touch pad, so I’ve desensitized those areas with good results. Be sure you are using the latest driver.
Of course, all of this goes away with an external mouse plugged in, so there is a work-around as you figure out what’s best for you. Having one-touch access to the Control Panel (via the Fn keys) makes it easy to jump to the Mouse settings as you experiment. Having adapted to the new surface of the touch pad, I enjoy using it.
THE OPTIONAL HIGH RESOLUTION SCREEN
I read that a high-res screen would create problems with icons appearing small, and with some software being difficult to scale. In spite of assurances to the contrary by Lenovo sales reps, there have been issues. If you want to feel secure, search the web for compatibility issues between your favorite software and high-resolution screens. Photoshop CS5 editing tools were too small to use with the screen set on full resolution. Quicken was also not happy. On the other hand most any web content, and Office 2013 programs (at least Word and Excel) readily scale up and down to fill the screen.   Backing the resolution down to 1920 x 1080 brought the two errant programs back into range.
So, the obvious question is: Why bother with the high res screen? The standard screen is 1920 x 1080. The answer is that this is an IPS type screen—the same technology used in preferred stand-alone monitors. The blacks are really black, and you can view images from most any angle with reasonable fidelity. So, this is a beautiful screen, even when not taking advantage of its full resolution. Photos look wonderful, so I’m very comfortable at the lower resolution setting. Besides, from the Windows Desktop, a two-fingered click on the pad brings up a submenu that gets you directly to the “screen resolution” function. You can switch it around in a few seconds if necessary, although your desktop icons may shift to accommodate. One other thing: The screen surface is not a glossy finish, but neither is it as “matte” as other Lenovo screens. I mention this because there is conflicting information out there. Finally, I have a hunch that “standard” screens will become more high-resolution as time goes on, and the software developers will find ways to take advantage of it. Thus, the high-res screen is something of a hedge toward keeping the W-540 current for a longer period of time.
For what it’s worth, I have not used the standard screen, so I cannot comment on it, other than to say that other reviewers seem to like it.
COLOR CALIBRATION
The screen calibration device (Color Sensor) is well worth it for those who want to be sure their photographic prints match what the screen is showing. It is far easier to use than external devices. Calibration needs to be done regularly (especially with a new monitor). You can set your preferred interval (days or months) in the software. The software pops up at the specified time, you close the top and listen to it softly chirp for a little over a minute, and it’s done.
ODDS AND ENDS
This computer has no latch. I’ve carried it around a bit, and welcome the ease of opening. I don’t see a downside.
The power supply transformer on the power cord is huge relative to my older Lenovos, but about the same size as a friend’s earlier W-series. Lenovo shows no DC adapter for this computer. I suppose you could use a DC-AC inverter if you need to use the computer in a DC environment, but I asked the question on the Lenovo web site and did not get a useful answer.
I am not qualified to evaluate the microphones, camera, or speakers, other than to say that the built-in audio set-up seems quiet and robust compared to the T410i. There are lots of adjustments in the Dolby Home Theater software. Speaker output comes from slots on the front/bottom surface of the case, so, in addition to the software options, the quality of the sound can be changed by moving the computer closer or farther from the edge of your desk or table.
The left-side USB ports (one type 2 and one type 3) are close enough together to create physical interference if both are used at the same time. There are two more on the right side—spread farther apart, so it’s not a big deal.
The audio output is a single jack meant for a headphone/mike combination. My T410i is also like that. I’ve come to recognize this as appropriate for a business-oriented computer. A regular set of headphones works fine, but I’d be cautious if you intend to use a plug-in, external microphone with the unit.
CONFIGURATION SUGGESTIONS
If you are in a hurry, take Lenovo’s advice and buy one of the more standard packages. You can easily find them on line at Lenovo retailers. Expect an unpredictable wait time if you go outside the norms. In my imagination, the Lenovo people in the U.S. had a bunch of parts which they assembled to order. As it turned out, my order was “sent to manufacturing,” where the unit was built to spec. There were a couple of revisions to the estimated delivery date, but finally I received notification that the unit had been shipped….from Shanghai, via Alaska. Exact delivery predictions at the time of ordering for this sort of thing must be difficult.
This is my first computer with a solid state drive (SSD). It boots from cold in about 30 seconds, and does a restart cycle in well under a minute (including log-in with the fingerprint reader). Fully waking up from sleep is only a few seconds. Back-ups are satisfyingly fast through the USB-3 ports. This sort of speed, along with the typical on-screen parade of graphics during the process is why a light to tell you the hard drive is spinning is of questionable value. But yes, I’d still like to have one—just because I’m used to it.
ULTRABAY IN NAME ONLY
The Ultrabay set-up on the W-540 (and T540p, for that matter) is different than earlier computers that feature a release latch on the bottom of the unit. Instead of a latch, Ultrabay components for the W-540 are secured to the computer with a tiny screw. The screw can only be accessed by removing the large hatch cover (two screws) underneath the computer. The carbon fiber reinforced plastic hatch cover is thin, and a bit finicky to work with.   The sales staff at Lenovo thought there was an external catch, but there is not. They were misinformed, and I actually called to correct them once I had my computer. Thus, no matter what anyone tells you, you CANNOT buy a W-540 and think you will easily swap a DVD drive with, say, a second hard drive.   It’s minor surgery, best done with a jeweler’s screwdriver and some fine needle nose pliers.
Be sure to read the User Guide to keep from breaking the hatch cover. When I ordered mine, they shipped the Ultrabay carrier and the hard drive from the US, so they arrived early. I had to install them myself and found manipulating the tiny screws and pulling the hatch cover to be a bit scary.
……Not exactly what you would call “convenient.”
CONCLUSION
When I first started looking into a photography-optimized computer, the question was whether to custom build a desktop, or to buy a top-line laptop. The W-series laptops offered the processing speed and graphics card that I needed, in a portable package. When the W-540 came out, it offered an IPS screen, which sealed the deal for me. Now that I’ve used it as intended—processed some photos with it, done some writing, watched a movie or two, and carried it around—I’m convinced that Lenovo’s compromises were good ones for my uses. They have done their job of providing a modern PC, with an eye toward conservative design, modern materials, and with a touch pad that reflects the direction software developers are going. I needed to do a little catching up, reprogramming my fingers to feel comfortable with the new keyboard set-up, and tailoring the touchpad software for my hands. It was a small price to pay to make the most of what the W-540 offers in speed, monitor accuracy, and portability.
And I no longer fall asleep waiting for Photoshop to complete a task.

Very good write-up. I've had my W540 for almost a week. My thoughts:
The Case: The screen feels a bit flimsy to me, I think that's due to small hinges mounted near the edges.
The Keyboard: I don't mind the offset keyboard, my current and previous Dells have had these, but they were 17.3" and 17" screens. I'm in engineering so I'd much rather have the extra numbers keypad than a centred keyboard. Although I don't like the CTRL and FN keys being the other way around.
Night light: Haven't really noticed not having one as I haven't had one in the past. My Dell has backlight keys.
Function keys: Don't particularly like this but once I found they could be locked on using the FN / Esc combo I just use this. It stays locked even if I reboot which is handy.
Hard drive activity light would be handy, as would numbers and caps lock. I've disabled the on-screen notification, that was just a pain. Sort of cr*p you would expect from Microsoft and all their silly tips, etc. that I disable as well.
Touchpad: I've commented elsewhere that this is the worse I've even seen. Absolutely useless. I've disabled both the touchpad and touchstick (again, useless) and just use a mouse.
Screen: Dreadful! I've got the 1920 x 1080 LCD. The icon size is ok, I've got it set to the smallest I can. However the screen looks washed out at the bottom. Again, I've posted about this before.
Mine doesn't have a SSD and only has 4 GB of memory, so I find it very slow. This is not a workstation unless you go for all the bells and whistles, otherwise it's ok for MS Ofifice and the internet but not for serious work. Forget programs such as AutoCAD and the like, too slow and the screen is too poor.
Anyway, thats my opinion, I'm sure others will love this unit and disagree with me.

VC - Report for charateristics with their corresponding BOM components?

In our company, we define our finished products as configuration material.That means we have
used the variant configuration(VC) in SAP.
We have created super BOM for our finished products. And when our sellers create sales order
in SAP ,they will choose the configuration,and after they choose that,the BOM for production
will be formed.
For example,just like computer as finished products ,customer may choose different
configurations. For example ,hard disk ,customer may choose 120G or 200G.
In SAP ,to realise that ,we will create one charateristic as HARD DISK, and it has two
characteristic values:120G and 200G.
And in our super BOM for computer ,we will write object dependency(OD) for two components:
one is 120G hard disk material,we may write :TZ_HARD_DISK = '120G' ; the other is 200G hard disk material ,we may write: TZ_HARD_DISK = '200G". That means when customer create a order and choose 120G hard disk ,the 120G hard disk material will be a component in the BOM,and the 200G hard disk wiil not be a component in the BOM.
My question is that there is correspondence relationship between charateristic and BOM component(object dependency as link), can we get a report or a list to show all the charateristic with their corresponding BOM components?
By use CT11(find characteristics in object dependency) and CU04 (find object dependency with BOM component),we could find BOM component once a time.
So there is a report to show all the charateristic with their corresponding BOM components?
By ABAP development? Or there is standard report? Or ther is third party tools?
Thanks for any reply!

Are there any other experts who are reach in the Variant Configuration of SAP know?
If there is a report to show all the charateristic of Variant Configuration with their corresponding BOM components?
We are looking for the standard report.
By use CT11(find characteristics in object dependency) and CU04 (find object dependency with BOM component),we could find BOM component once a time.
Are there another TCODE or programme like CT11 but can find many characteristics in object dependency) once a time?By now ,use CT11, we only can find one characteristics in object dependency once a time?
Only by ABAP development? Or there is standard report? Or ther is third party tools?
Edited by: Fei Liu on Mar 17, 2009 7:19 AM

Help, please - I need a box to pop-up when user hovers over a field with their mouse??

I created a form with several drop-down fields / questions. I would like to create a box that pops up when the person who is filling out the form hovers over the question/ field with his or her mouse. The box would contain additional information about the question that the person might consider before they select the answer. I don't want to clutter the form (and not all form-filler-outers will want or need to see the additional information) so I want it to pop up when the person hovers over the question with their mouse.
Can someone provide some help with how I can do this?
I'm still new to this.
Thank you!!!

Hi,
To follow on from radzmar, here is a summary of the features that are available/restricted depending on how you deploy your form.
There are two ways to apply Reader rights, one is using Acrobat Standard (v9) or Acrobat Professional (v8). The other is using an Adobe server product called LiveCycle Reader Extensions ES2.
You don't need script to apply the Reader rights to your form. Once you have applied the rights, users with Reader will be able to save the data in the form, however there may still be other restrictions in place, like attaching documents to the form or exporting XML data.
There summary is also available in PDF, with screen shots, here: http://assurehsc.ie/blog/index.php/2010/05/using-livecycle-forms-in-acrobat-and-reader/
Hope that helps,
Niall

StarWalk compass stopped working with their most recent update.

My favorite application on my iPad used to be Starwalk. Ever since their most recent update on April 30, the internal compass stopped working (which is basically the backbone of the entire app). I contacted Vito technology (the developer) - it took a long time to get a response, but after several efforts they finally replied that there was a flaw in the iPad's internal Magnetometer, that it had nothing to do with their software, and there was nothing they could do about it - I should take it up with Apple. The app worked perfectly until their most recent update. I looked at their reviews/comments and numerous people were making the exact same complaint, and everyone said it stopped working as the result of the April 30 Starwalk update. I have one friend with a 3G iPad and the app still works fine for him. I have another friend with a wiFi version like me, and the app ALSO stopped working for him on April 30. So I understand not all iPads are affected.
So am I supposed to take this up with Apple now and tell them there is a flaw in their magnetometer that caused StarWalk to break as of their last update, and see if they can fix all our devices?
I don't believe Vito's assertion that their software is not at fault (considering so many people are complaining in their negative reviews that the last update triggered this breakage).
I'm frustrated and wonder if anyone else is experiencing this. Starwalk used to be my favorite app, and its even more frustrating to listen to the developer tell me its a device flaw that's been there all along, when me and many other people all had simultaneous magnetometer problems develop on April 30 - the moment we installed their last update.

Just that I have the latest from April 30 and there are no updates that are available to me. I guess you have the wifi only version as I do? I can't quite figure out why this would be affecting some people and not others. If you go to the StarWalk page on iTunes you'll see the list of people complaining about the same thing. In iTunes it also says my iPad software is up to date (I assume that means the OS/firmware).
So do you guys think this is something I take up with StarWalk or Apple? I feel a little ripped off that Vito has sold me a $6 app (granted that is not much) that has stopped working, and they are telling me its a flaw in the device.
I'll paste the response I received from Vito below. Bear in mind that although they say this has nothing to do with their software, all of the people who are complaining had a functioning app before April 30, and it stopped working as soon as we made that update.
Thank you for taking time to send us your feedback, it is highly appreciated.
In specific circumstances iPhone/iPad digital compass (magnetometer) may operate with difficulties, essentially causing errors in all applications that rely on its data.
Unfortunately, we cannot fix this particular problem, because it is caused by the digital compass malfunction and has nothing to do with our software. However, we are happy to offer you directions which may help you avoid experiencing this inconvenience in the future.
For better functioning of the digital compass consider doing the following:
1) Tilt your device from landscape to portrait orientation several times. This will help the digital compass recalibrate itself and calculate current position.
2) Make sure the compass is not obstructed by thick walls of buildings or large amounts of metal nearby. Try going outside.
3) Consider trying again later. Sometimes it is unclear what may be influencing the magnetometer.
If you need more information, please read the magnetometer specifications below.
We hope that these simple instructions were of help. Please don't hesitate to contact us if you have any further questions.
Sincerely,
Vito Technology Support Team
For more information:
Wikidia article http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digital_compass :
"A magnetometer is a scientific instrument used to measure the strength and/or direction of the magnetic field in the vicinity of the instrument. Magnetism varies from place to place and differences in Earth's magnetic field (the magnetosphere) can be caused by the differing nature of rocks and the interaction between charged particles from the Sun and the magnetosphere of aplanet. Magnetometers are a frequent component instrument on spacecraft that explore planets."

Anyone here make a living with Photoshop?

Does anyone here make a living with PS (or close to it)? I don't really mean in combination with anything else (like a graphics arts degree, or "I use it along with these six other programs I'm an expert in, too").
From what I'm gathering, relying solely on PS for income would leave one starving, and I understand that an employer - if one isn't a freelancer - would want an employee to have multiple areas of expertise.

I'm 53 now so that made me 38 when I started using Ps. Not that far off from where you are today. All I can say is that it happened very gradually for me, first just playing around then trying to emulate what prepress houses were doing for my clients at the time on images I had shot, to finally doing small jobs myself, usually learning just enough at one time to figure out how to get that one project done.
Then after reading the early Real World books and later the Professional Photoshop series, I began to get a grasp of what it took to start to take on the responsibility of taking on projects where my contribution was a small part of a much larger budget - annual reports that cost a quarter million to print, large campaigns for public utilities that had billboards, busboards and ads all across L.A. I had to step up my game and not just be "as good" as those prepress and retouching houses that my clients used to use, I had to be significantly better. This involved not only being able to do anything they through at me but also saying yes when when they told me I could say no. It also involved learning as much as possible about digital color, digital color management and how to make digital images reproduce their best wherever and however the clients wanted to print. And that led to investment in hardware and software - tens or thousands of dollars in spectrophotometers and color management software that gave me a competitive advantage over my competition and tools that even though many print shops owned, very few knew how to use. It's that constant pushing forward and drive to improve your skills that keeps you interested in a very fascinating place in history.
There's room for anyone good, and even if you're just starting out, and somehow consider yourself mid-career, that's no reason to give up. Before you know it, you'll be able to offer services that others aren't willing to do for themselves and if you don't try to take on too much at once, you'll look back in a couple of years and ask yourself why you were so worried at the time.
There is so much more good information and better, less expensive tools readily available that it's easier today that ever before. Hell, I can remember participating in a Monday night live AOL chat where Chris Cox, the Adobe engineer was the guest and asking him when they were going to start supporting ColorSync and ColorSync profiles, to which he replied something on the order that that was not a very good direction to go in. My how things have changed.
I just finished what it probably one of the most difficult Ps jobs I've done to date - the 2010 Manhattan Wine Auction Poster - for Manhattan Beach, Ca. not Manhattan, NY. It really pushed the limits of my own capabilities, both in the actual shooting and certainly in the digital post production. Here's a link to their website which has the poster on the first page.
http://manhattanwineauction.com/
This was every bit as hard as it looks but most importantly, involved another helicopter ride, taking the doors off a Robinson 44 and hanging out over the ocean. There were three bottles of wine involved in what you see here - a bottle of two buck chuck from Trader Joe's that I drilled a 1/4 inch vent hole in to facilitate a smoother pour, an opened $400 bottle of wine for the open neck and a full bottle so it wouldn't be too transparent - all blended together to form one perfect union. The splash was from a rubber ball dropped on a fishing line into a washtub full of wine colored Kool-Aid and then the concentric ripples from a can of Dust-Off compressed air shot into the same washtube, all photographed with the Canon 1DsMKIII and a 90mm Tilt-Shift lens with a Broncolor strobe that had a 1/7500th of a second flash duration to stop the action. I populated the pier with people from alternate aerial shots and finally used surfing shots from Body Glove for the three surfers at the bottom. The final file was prepped for printing at Lithocraft in Anaheim using a custom profile I made for their press and the printed piece looked as close to what I saw I my screen as anything else I have taken to press.

Does anyone here access a shared calendar with their Blackberry???

I work for a very large company and I don't use my personal calendar. I use a calendar on a shared mailbox where several people enter appointments I need to attend. So far I have not been able to get a hold of anyone in our IT department who knows if it is possible to have my Blackberry synchronize with the shared calendar instead of my personal calendar. Surely other people must access a shared calendar with their BB. Doesn't seem like such an unusual thing to need to do. On my laptop I have access to both my personal and the shared calendar in Outlook. We run an Exchange Server and that is about the extent of info I have.

If she has been syncing her phone with iTunes she could restore her phone to her last backup. This will revert the settings and data on her phone to those contained in the backup (losing more recent information). You should probably unshare your iCloud calendar with her before beginning to avoid the possiblility of her restored calendar replacing yours. Then, before connecting her phone, open iTunes on the computer she syncs with, go to Preferences and on the Devices tab check "Prevent...from syncing automatically". Next, connect her phone and when it appears in iTunes on the left sidebar right-click on it and select Restore from Backup, taking care to choose her backup to restore from and not yours. If this restores her calendar she should give it a unique name before trying to share your iCloud calenadar again.
If she syncs her calendar with a supported application on her computer (such as Outlook) another option would be to replace her iPhone calendar with the calendar on her computer by checking to do so on the Info tab of her iTunes sync settings (under Advanced>Replace information on this iPhone>check Calendars), apply and sync.

Who is living with their gradient?

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