Would you buy a MacBook Air today?
So all these darn rumors about early 2012 or a macbook air refresh, would you buy today or wait? I was going to buy one this week, but now i'm hearing early 2012 new air's...that could mean january, or that could mean april. Just need some friendly advice!
Ok, just an update
Ordered on Dec. 6th, air arrived dec. 7th! I was not home but UPS left it on my doorstep. Kind of concerning since anyone could have just snatched it. Anyways, got home, set it up, screen is amazing! Speed is quick, cant be happier. Glad I went with the 13", perfect size for travel, not too big, not too small. Thanks for all the posts in helping me make my decision.
Similar Messages
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Would you get a macbook air today?
I heard rumours that there would be new macbook airs on or around March. I am 80% sure about this because intel will release its Ivy core on March which apple planned to use for the new macbook air and pro. I actually planned to get it on Christmas but my dad said that it would be be benificial for me to get the new ones on March because I need a faster processor. I actually have a Compaq presario cq 61 which still works fine. I also heard that there would be 15" inch macbook airs so my questions are:
1. Should I wait for the new ones?
2. Would 15" be better than 13" if there a would be?
3. I am still a middle schooler who just writes essays, makes power point, makes songs and simple videos; so would mba be a good choice for me or would a mbp do a better work for me?
4. Any more recommendations?
I expect a really clear answer please! Thank you!!!1. Should I wait for the new ones?
If you have a computer that suits your needs in the meantime, sure. But no one knows for sure when the new models will be released except for Apple, and they are very tight lipped on product announcements. Also, technology moves fast, so any newly released mac will soon become "outdated", although it can meet a users needs for many years.
2. Would 15" be better than 13" if there a would be?
IF a model was made with a 15" screen it would depend on what features would be offered on the 15" that might not be offered on the 13" (which again, no one knows so that aspect is worthless to debate at this point). Also, it would depend on what size screen preference you have.
3. I am still a middle schooler who just writes essays, makes power point, makes songs and simple videos; so would mba be a good choice for me or would a mbp do a better work for me?
Based on what you say you intend on using it for, it sounds like a fine choice. Just be advised that you can not upgrade anything on a MacBook Air (certainaly not the ram as it is soldered to the motherboard), but after the warranty expires, you can upgrade the solid state drive (flash memory). -
Where do you buy A Macbook Air's Macintosh HD disk. Also how much does a 125gb cost?
Where do you buy A Macbook Air's Macintosh HD disk. Also how much does a 125gb cost?
Shop for a suitable aftermarket replacement at OWC / MacSales.
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After spending all of this money for for my macbook air and know you get a free gift card with it, I feel like I should apply for that promo. It's dumb for apple to reward new users and I have owned apple stuff for 7 years and i've spent over $10,000 dollars and they won't return that to loyal customers but they will give $100 to new users.
I never intended to make it sound like you're a bad person.
My only point is that sometimes, manufacturers start deals or promotions after some previous customers have made purchases. That should be the manufacturers' right. It's not like the folks who made purchases prior were cheated in any way. They got what they thought they were buying.
Yes, you and I and all Apple customers should be thanked. I think we are already. I feel appreciated. I have had several instances where my Apple customers needed in-warranty service and was provided this service without any hesitation. I feel appreciated by having the company continue to provide exceptional products and services. -
Would you buy your MacBook all over again?
Just curious. I'm thinking, now that I'm experiencing these sharp edges and periodic mooing in addition to a grudgingly slow wireless Internet connection, that I wouldn't. I'd go with a "comparable" PC laptop. All these problems, they just aren't worth the conversion to Mac OS X in my humble opinion.
No, I wouldn't....! HEH! Before my pals in this list faint...
I so enjoy this little computer that I want MORE! I like its small size. I like its speed. It is so easy to use. I love its versatility with being able to run nearly any OS you throw at it via VM appliances.
I think I wish I had held off, waited til the 15" MacBook Pro had its kinks worked out (if there are any), and bought that one instead.
These new Macintosh notebook computers (notice I didn't type laptop) are da bomb! GO APPLE!
But, I think I want the MacBook Pro or whatever is coming up in the future, especially for the graphics card. For *ME*, I feel the need for a bit more horsepower in the graphics.
So, would I have done purchased this little honey if I had to do it again... I just am not sure, but if I hadn't, my want-to-EYE and radar would be looking over the horizon as to what Apple will be doing in the way of tweaking the product line. -
i buy a macbook air with my friend and i changed the apple id also.at first i can update the application but now its impossible to update the application.when i clock to update it shows the id of my fren andsomebody do you have idea to solve this problem.
The first thing to do with a second-hand computer is to erase the internal drive and install a clean copy of OS X. You — not the previous owner — must do that. How you do it depends on the model, and on whether you already own another Mac. If you're not sure of the model, enter the serial number on this page. Then find the model on this page to see what OS version was originally installed.
1. You don't own another Mac.
If the machine shipped with OS X 10.4 or 10.5, you need a boxed and shrink-wrapped retail Snow Leopard (OS X 10.6) installation disc from the Apple Store or a reputable reseller — not from eBay or anything of the kind. If the machine has less than 1 GB of memory, you'll need to add more in order to install 10.6. Preferably, install as much memory as it can take, according to the technical specifications.
If the machine shipped with OS X 10.6, you need the installation media that came with it: gray installation discs, or a USB flash drive for some MacBook Air models. For early MBA models, you may need a USB optical drive or Remote Disc. You should have received the media from the previous owner, but if you didn't, order replacements from Apple. A retail disc, or the gray discs from another model, will not work.
To boot from an optical disc or a flash drive, insert it, then reboot and hold down the C key at the startup chime. Release the key when you see the gray Apple logo on the screen.
If the machine shipped with OS X 10.7 or later, you don't need media. It should boot into Internet Recovery mode when you hold down the key combination option-command-R at the startup chime. Release the keys when you see a spinning globe.
2. You do own another Mac.
If you already own another Mac that was upgraded in the App Store to the version of OS X that you want to install, and if the new Mac is compatible with it, then you can install it. Use Recovery Disk Assistant to create a bootable USB device and boot the new Mac from it by holding down the C key at the startup chime. Alternatively, if you have a Time Machine backup of OS X 10.7.3 or later on an external hard drive (not a Time Capsule or other network device), you can boot from that by holding down the option key and selecting it from the row of icons that appears. Note that if your other Mac was never upgraded in the App Store, you can't use this method.
Once booted in Recovery, launch Disk Utility and select the icon of the internal drive — not any of the volume icons nested beneath it. In the Partition tab, select the default options: a GUID partition table with one data volume in Mac OS Extended (Journaled) format. This operation will permanently remove all existing data on the drive.
After partitioning, quit Disk Utility and run the OS X Installer. You will need the Apple ID and password that you used to upgrade. When the installation is done, the system will automatically reboot into the Setup Assistant, which will prompt you to transfer the data from another Mac, its backups, or from a Windows computer. If you have any data to transfer, this is usually the best time to do it.
Then run Software Update and install all available system updates from Apple. To upgrade to a major version of OS X newer than 10.6, get it from the Mac App Store. Note that you can't keep an upgraded version that was installed by the previous owner. He or she can't legally transfer it to you, and without the Apple ID you won't be able to update it in Software Update or reinstall, if that becomes necessary. The same goes for any App Store products that the previous owner installed — you have to repurchase them.
If the previous owner "accepted" the bundled iLife applications (iPhoto, iMovie, and Garage Band) in the App Store so that he or she could update them, then they're linked to that Apple ID and you won't be able to download them without buying them. Reportedly, Apple customer service has sometimes issued redemption codes for these apps to second owners who asked.
If the previous owner didn't deauthorize the computer in the iTunes Store under his Apple ID, you wont be able to authorize it immediately under your ID. In that case, you'll either have to wait up to 90 days or contact iTunes Support. -
Some advice - buying a MacBook Air
Hi,
I am planning to buy a MacBook Air (13" version), and have some questions which I would like some help!
1. Performance/Upgrades
I am trying to figure out whether I should get the Processor (i5 to i7) and/or RAM (4GB to 8GB) upgrades - is it worth it, for me?
My day to day usage is quite regular - Outlook, spreadsheets, writing, browsing, streaming online videos, a few flash games here and there. But, I do multi-task heavily, in that I can have large numbers of files/programs/browsing tabs all open at the same time, flicking between them to get things done quicker. On a few odd occasions, I do use more intensive programs such as photo editing, web design, video editing etc.
From the research I have done I believe that a faster processor would only really benefit me in some of the more intensive tasks such as a video conversion. Now I know a professional video editor would the quickest conversions if they are doing it all the time, but for me, because this sort of task is quite infrequent, I can handle it taking an extra 10 minutes to convert something. What I couldn't deal with is for these applications to be slow and draggy in their overall usage.
For the RAM, I guess this would be a lot more useful for me, in terms of the multi-tasking applications and files? My existing laptop (albiet old and cluttered) is a Windows 7 with Core i5 dual core and 4GB ram. I have sometimes found when opening significant numbers of tabs, it tells me I am out of memory, or the application windows will start failing to load/turning black screen etc). Things take a long time to open. This sort of thing, I find annoying!
If I get either upgrade it means spending £1050-£1150 on the Apple Store. If I don't need the upgrades, I can get hold of the standard MBA for just £850 from Tesco, and that's quite a saving that I would appreciate at the moment... but only if it doesnt result in a lower performance that I would notice.
So this is the first question - what sort of day to day tasks would a faster processor and/or extra RAM benefit, and would I likely notice this? What about for the heavier applications? Do you think from my comments above that I should bother with either?
2. Using Windows apps
I've seen that you can run Windows programs on a Mac through Boot Camp or other software like Parallels. This would be really useful for me as I do have the odd program which is Windows-only and I would still need to use. However I have also been reading that doing this would significantly reduce performance/battery life on the Mac.
Does this mean that the Mac would have reduced performance/battery ALL of the time - even when Windows isn't being used, or does it just mean for the duration of time that you're actually logged into the Windows OS?
I can deal with slow performance whilst using Windows applications, as I don't intend on using the MBA as a full time Windows machine - but I would not want my battery/performance to suffer for the rest of the time when I am just running Mac stuff.
Any thoughts or experiences with this? And any tips on the best and most cheapest/efficient way to run Windows programs on a Mac?
3. Other crucial tips on switching?
I have used Windows for 15-20 years and never had a mac, but with the new Windows 8 being completely rubbish especially without touch screen, I think now is a good time to make the change and give Mac a try.
I've given the topic a good bit of research and have an idea of what will be different between a PC and Mac, but if you have gone through "the switch" yourself and think you have any particularly good tips from personal experience - such as things I might find difficult in getting used to or things I will have to sacrifice, or things a Mac won't do that I could have done in Windows etc - then let me know so I dont get any nasty suprises
I realise this is a lot of questions and info but having read lots of reviews and articles I'd like to just get some Apple user feedback - straight from the horses mouth - as this is kind of a big step for me to make this change and I dont want to spend all that money and regret it!
Thanks so much!
DanielleHi,
Thanks for your reply.
>>Running bootcamped Win7, yes power consumption is more, a lot more,....indications are no.
Sorry, can you clarify on this one - do you mean the power consumption is more DURING the use of Windows, or ALL of the time (even when using the Mac as normal with OSX).... also what did you mean by indications?
>>From the parameters of what you say your use would be, Id recommend the I5 with 8gig of ram. the 12 hour >>batt. life is only rated for the 13" on the I5, ....not the I7.
Sounds like my first guess was about right - and good point about the battery life - as that is something that's quite important to me!
>>The "switch" is extremely easy. Ive seen grandmothers switch to a MAC and have its 'everyday use' >>conquered in under a week. So, you should have no worries, its extremely user friendly, no worries of virus, >>etc.
Glad to hear I've done more research and already seen a few features I can see myself preferring a lot more to the Windows system!
>>As a former computer repairman, Ive owned nearly 200 diff. laptops (many were free, or Franken-computers >>built from parts) and I can honestly say the Macbook AIR is the finest piece of beloved hardware Ive ever >>owned by a mile.
>>Many people incorrectly see the THIN nature of the Air and incorrectly conjecture its "less than" a full laptop, >>but the contrary is the case.
Nah, I don't associate size with performance - especially these days, everything is getting smaller. My concerns are really just about whether to upgrade for extra performance, and using the OS - once I have those nailed I am pretty cofident the hardware will perform well.
>>Additionally the AIR is the only Mac that has 802AC wifi, new Haswell cool-running processor, and extremely >>long 12 Hr. batt life on the I5 13" configuration.
Yeah that battery life is one of the big sellers
Cheers for the tips,
Danielle -
Can a 128 ssd storage still effectively work if I install windows 8.1 plus msoffice and a window-based proposal system? I plan to buy a macbook air entry level with 1.7 gh i5 processor.
If you are going to use Mac OS X and its associated applications, and a BootCamp partition with Windows 8, and MS Office and all of the work created there, you will more than likely run out of space on a 128 GB SSD pretty quickly...especially if you put any music, photos or videos on it. Those things take a lot of space so you will have to be very, very careful about what you want to put on a 128 GB storage space. You would be better off going for 512 GB with what you plan on doing with it.
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Should I buy a MacBook Air now?
I am in the market for a new machine. I want to get a MacBook Air, but considering the fact they are due for a refresh, is now a good time to buy one? If the refresh is simple internal upgrades, then I don´t mind. If it is major overhauls like significantly improved battery, or better physical design, I might not be so pleased, as this is a very long term investment. What would you guys do? Is the current Macbook Air, good enough to stand its own on whatever might replace it?
If you need a MacBook Air now, buy it now. If you want to wait because you are afraid of a new generation, do it at your own risk, because it may or may not be launched soon. Nobody knows that.
The actual MacBook Air is a very good computer for home tasks, fast, thin and light. Of course, if you want a computer for professional use with applications like Final Cut Pro, Photoshop..., don't buy the MacBook Air because it's not good enough. Instead, I recommend the 15-inch MacBook Pro -
Hello friends, I've a huge matter: whould I buy a Macbook Air or Pro?
I'd want to get a Macbook for my birthday (university's approaching, too).
I saw the new MacBook air 13" and the new MacBook Pro 13" are pretty much at the same prize.
I'll tell you things I considered:
MacBook Pro: more CPU power, more storage, more inputs, upgradable in time.
MacBook Air: better and newer design, higher resolution, faster storage.
So as you can see the pro has better hardware but slower storage (although it's much more) and a bad resolution while the air has few storage and it has few ports and cpu power.
I'd like to use it as my main machine, and I'd like not to have problems with any kind of softwares (Photoshop, iLife, Premiere, some games, HD recording).
What should I get, so?
Maximum budget: 1300-1400€
Thanks a lot!I just looked at this question myself. I've always used Pros, and in the past what stopped me from using the Airs were the RAM capacity and the drive capacity. The new Airs change all of that..mostly. Finally you can have 8GB RAM and 512GB storage, which I think is what you would want if you are seriously talking about using Photoshop and Premiere regularly. That is a $2099 computer as configured. At that price I'm back on the 15" MacBook Pro non-Retina to stay within budget...that's the spec level I've been using for the last two laptops I've owned.
If you are thinking of getting the base 4GB RAM/256GB SSD model of the 13' Air, keep in mind that 4GB is very minimal for running Photoshop or Premiere. You will effectively only be able to run one app at a time and still possibly run out of RAM on some jobs. That is why I couldn't use the old Airs. I would only buy a new Air with 8GB RAM since you cannot upgrade it later. All my future Macs will have 16GB, the only reason I wouldn't spec the Air with it is that Apple won't let you.
OK, so that's the RAM. The 256GB SSD could run out of space fast unless you are already planning on connecting external drives for your projects/archives/HD recording targets/Photoshop scratch disks. That is why all my future Macs will be specced with 512GB minimum. And with only 4GB or 8GB RAM, you are definitely going to need an external Photoshop scratch disk if you plan on editing anything coming off a DSLR.
So, if I was to get an Air for the Adobe suite it would be the 8GB RAM, 512GB SSD Air or else a 15" MacBook Pro Retina with more power all around and the same disk capacity for only $100 more! -
I just ordered a macbook air today and need to know if the 128gb SSD is enough space. I presently have a macbook pro and am using only 30gb hard drive space so, the apple rep said 128 is enough as I do not load much pictures or gaming etc. Also is i5 ok.
Id choose the I5 yes, depends on what your usage is going to be,
....your question about "128 gig being enough" begs the question for IDEALIZED USE of your macbook AIr
In the case of a Macbook Air with ‘limited’ storage on the SSD, this distinction becomes more important in that in an ever rapidly increasing file-size world, you keep vital large media files, pics, video, PDF collections, music off your SSD and archived on external storage, for sake of the necessary room for your system to have free space to operate, store future applications and general workspace. You should never be put in the position of considering “deleting things” on your macbook SSD in order to ‘make space’.
*Generally, unless you NEED the data at least once every few weeks or once a month,...it really does'nt NEED to be on the SSD of your Macbook Air.
Professionals who create and import very large amounts of data have almost no change in the available space on their computers internal HD because they are constantly archiving data to arrays of external or networked HD.
Or in the case of the consumer this means you keep folders for large imported or created data and you ritually offload and archive this data for safekeeping, not only to safeguard the data in case your macbook has a HD crash, or gets stolen, but importantly in keeping the ‘breathing room’ open for your computer to operate, expand, create files, add applications, for your APPS to create temp files, and for general operation.
Ive got more APPS than any human should have on my 128gig AIR,..(50 or so),....and 10gig of working data, important files etc etc.
Still have 82gig available....... the entire point is that someone shouldnt consider the Air a "storage device" for tons of pics, music, vids, etc.
*Never consider any computer a data storage device at any time under any circumstance, rather a data creation, sending, and manipulation device. Anyone who thinks data is safe on any computer, even copied upon multiple partitions is making a mistake that will, without fail, strike.
For needs of packing around a LOT of "big data" with your Air in its case..., get a nice 1TB HD for $70, or even a 2TB drive not much bigger.
Perfect 2TB HD, very slim, the "little giant" made by Toshiba (have several of these) $119
http://www.amazon.com/Toshiba-Canvio-Connect-Portable-HDTC720XK3C1/dp/B00CGUMS48 /ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1379182740&sr=1-4&keywords=2tb+toshiba
*This one is the BEST external HD available that money can buy:
$75
HGST Touro Mobile 1TB USB 3.0 External Hard Drive
http://www.amazon.com/HGST-Touro-Mobile-External-HTOLMX3NA10001ABB/dp/B0062FZ2WS /ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1379185002&sr=1-1&keywords=hitachi+extern a l+hard+drive -
Hello guys,
I'm planning to buy a Macbook Air 13" 256gb model. And I'm willing to buy it from the US as obviously the price there is cheaper than that of India.
So my question is that the one-year apple warranty would still be available to me if something happens to the mac within a year from the date of purchase?
I'm not in mood to pay extra for the apple care protection plan. So just wanted to know whether the basic warranty would still be available if I use it in India and whether it could be repaired in India itself?Welcome to Apple Support Communities
Your Mac comes with a 1-year international warranty, so you can get it repaired at any country with resellers during the first year of warranty free of charge. The warranty will be valid in India, so you don't have to worry -
I have iTunes on an old pc and am thinking of buying a MacBook Air. I am wondering how to get the content of my iPad on to the Mac as I know that sync only happens in one direction, from pc to device. I assume therefore that when I attach my pad to the new Mac it will sync to an empty iTunes and I will have lost all the content of my pad. I know I can restore purchases, but what about contacts, calendar, photos and music not purchased from apple. I have a fairly recent backup on a pen drive but it is a usb2 device and is formatted for a pc. Any advice would be appreciated.
Do I copy my media library or from a backup. I have a backup on my pc and on an external drive. This drive is usb2 and formatted for windows so I can't connect it to a MacBook Air to make the transfer. Equally I don't think there is a way to connect the 2 computers via a cable ie usb2 one end and usb3 the other. Will the computers talk to each other via wifi if I enable home share although I think this is only for music which still leaves contacts, mail etc.
I am sorry to be such an ignoramus but any further help would be appreciated. -
How would you upgrade my MacBook Pro 15" to maximize performance? No dollar limit.
I love my MCB, but am not technical.
Spend my money, theoretically -- If you had an unlimited budget to upgrade this system to make it fast and more efficient, what would you buy or do to it?
I'm deciding if I should scrap it and get a new MacBook Pro 13" instead. I like my MCB 15", but it seems to be getting hung up alot with the spinning rainbow, everyday apps freezing or crashing, and just slow when I have multiple windows open in Safari and Firefox at same time. I realize that the sites I browse to are more graphic intensive than they were when I got the MCB in 2008, but I'm wondering if it would be worthwhile to spend some $$$ to upgrade whatever I can and save my pennies for a newer Mac in a year or two. Safari and Mail crash or get hung a lot, Photo Booth folder is mysteriously empty,
So should I expect to be able to get substantial performance improvement (speed, multi-tasking) if I upgrade whatever is upgradable?
I surf using multiple browsers and open many tabs and mail with numerous accounts and magicjack, ocassionally use iweb, pages, text, calendar, low intensity games.
Thanks for any advice and recommendations and thoughts. I'd probably get the Genius Bar to install upgrades.
MacBook Pro 15"
2.4 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo
2 GB 667 MHz DDR2 SDRAM
L2 Cache 3 MB
Bus Speed 800 MHZ
OSX 10.5.8
HD 186 GB (137 used)
I back up Time Machine to WD My Passport 1TB
GeForce 8600M GT:
Chipset Model: GeForce 8600M GT
Type: Display
Bus: PCIe
PCIe Lane Width: x4
VRAM (Total): 256 MB
Vendor: NVIDIA (0x10de)
Device ID: 0x0407
Revision ID: 0x00a1
ROM Revision: 3212
Intel ICH8-M AHCI:
Vendor: Intel
Product: ICH8-M AHCI
Speed: 1.5 Gigabit
Description: AHCI Version 1.10 Supported
USB Bus:
Host Controller Location: Built In USB
Host Controller Driver: AppleUSBUHCI
PCI Device ID: 0x2834
PCI Revision ID: 0x0003
PCI Vendor ID: 0x8086
Bus Number: 0x1a
BRCM2046 Hub:
Product ID: 0x4500
Vendor ID: 0x0a5c (Broadcom Corp.)
Version: 1.00
Speed: Up to 12 Mb/sec
Manufacturer: Apple Inc.
Location ID: 0x1a100000
Current Available (mA): 500
Current Required (mA): 0
Also -- it had a couple of soft drops to floor and one medium intensity drop, always on carpet. so the case (not unibody) is dented on the sides with ports. All "seem" to work fine except right side USB; looks pushed in and angled, and the plastic trim that fills in space connecting flat top of typing surface to bottom cover has a 4" piece cracked off (kind of looks like where grout would go). Devices work but if you move the wire it's power filckers off and on. Have never used firewire or thunderbolt ports on this.
I would like more USB port options (maybe a high grade extendor???) for Logitech laptop cooler, external HD, VOIP device, wired mouse, wired keyboard (I prefer wired).
Thanks again.Hello Neville,
Thanks for looking in to this and alerting me. I don't know how to interpret all the data in the descriptions of the USBs in your post (or mine, for that matter) Which descriptive line/codes show a USB 1.0 and a USB 2.0. I would like to understand how to read that.
Here's how I determined both are 2.0.
1. I checked my serial number at this Apple link and confirmed it is MacBook Pro 15" Early Version.
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4132
2. Then I looked up the technical specifications at this Apple support link:
http://support.apple.com/kb/SP4
3. .Then I double-checked and looked up tech specs at this EveryMac link:
http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/macbook_pro/specs/macbook-pro-core-2-duo-2 .4-15-santa-rosa-specs.html
Both links say two USB 2.0 ports. I just took it for granted that they are both correct.
Much appreciation for your help.
M
Here's exactly what is listed in my About This Mac under USB:
USB Bus:
Host Controller Location: Built In USB
Host Controller Driver: AppleUSBUHCI
PCI Device ID: 0x2834
PCI Revision ID: 0x0003
PCI Vendor ID: 0x8086
Bus Number: 0x1a
Hub:
Product ID: 0x2046
Vendor ID: 0x0451 (Texas Instruments)
Version: 1.25
Speed: Up to 12 Mb/sec
Location ID: 0x1a200000
Current Available (mA): 500
Current Required (mA): 0
BRCM2046 Hub:
Product ID: 0x4500
Vendor ID: 0x0a5c (Broadcom Corp.)
Version: 1.00
Speed: Up to 12 Mb/sec
Manufacturer: Apple Inc.
Location ID: 0x1a100000
Current Available (mA): 500
Current Required (mA): 0
Bluetooth USB Host Controller:
Product ID: 0x820f
Vendor ID: 0x05ac (Apple Inc.)
Version: 1.80
Serial Number: 001EC28C27BA
Speed: Up to 12 Mb/sec
Manufacturer: Apple Inc.
Location ID: 0x1a110000
Current Available (mA): 500
Current Required (mA): 0
Hub:
Product ID: 0x2046
Vendor ID: 0x0451 (Texas Instruments)
Version: 1.25
Speed: Up to 12 Mb/sec
Location ID: 0x1a200000
Current Available (mA): 500
Current Required (mA): 0
BRCM2046 Hub:
Product ID: 0x4500
Vendor ID: 0x0a5c (Broadcom Corp.)
Version: 1.00
Speed: Up to 12 Mb/sec
Manufacturer: Apple Inc.
Location ID: 0x1a100000
Current Available (mA): 500
Current Required (mA): 0
Bluetooth USB Host Controller:
Product ID: 0x820f
Vendor ID: 0x05ac (Apple Inc.)
Version: 1.80
Serial Number: 001EC28C27BA
Speed: Up to 12 Mb/sec
Manufacturer: Apple Inc.
Location ID: 0x1a110000
Current Available (mA): 500
Current Required (mA): 0
Bluetooth USB Host Controller:
Product ID: 0x820f
Vendor ID: 0x05ac (Apple Inc.)
Version: 1.80
Serial Number: 001EC28C27BA
Speed: Up to 12 Mb/sec
Manufacturer: Apple Inc.
Location ID: 0x1a110000
Current Available (mA): 500
Current Required (mA): 0
USB Bus:
Host Controller Location: Built In USB
Host Controller Driver: AppleUSBUHCI
PCI Device ID: 0x2830
PCI Revision ID: 0x0003
PCI Vendor ID: 0x8086
Bus Number: 0x1d
USB Bus:
Host Controller Location: Built In USB
Host Controller Driver: AppleUSBUHCI
PCI Device ID: 0x2831
PCI Revision ID: 0x0003
PCI Vendor ID: 0x8086
Bus Number: 0x3d
USB Bus:
Host Controller Location: Built In USB
Host Controller Driver: AppleUSBUHCI
PCI Device ID: 0x2835
PCI Revision ID: 0x0003
PCI Vendor ID: 0x8086
Bus Number: 0x3a
USB Bus:
Host Controller Location: Built In USB
Host Controller Driver: AppleUSBUHCI
PCI Device ID: 0x2832
PCI Revision ID: 0x0003
PCI Vendor ID: 0x8086
Bus Number: 0x5d
Apple Internal Keyboard / Trackpad:
Product ID: 0x0230
Vendor ID: 0x05ac (Apple Inc.)
Version: 0.70
Speed: Up to 12 Mb/sec
Manufacturer: Apple, Inc.
Location ID: 0x5d200000
Current Available (mA): 500
Current Required (mA): 40
IR Receiver:
Product ID: 0x8242
Vendor ID: 0x05ac (Apple Inc.)
Version: 0.16
Speed: Up to 1.5 Mb/sec
Manufacturer: Apple Computer, Inc.
Location ID: 0x5d100000
Current Available (mA): 500
Current Required (mA): 100
Apple Internal Keyboard / Trackpad:
Product ID: 0x0230
Vendor ID: 0x05ac (Apple Inc.)
Version: 0.70
Speed: Up to 12 Mb/sec
Manufacturer: Apple, Inc.
Location ID: 0x5d200000
Current Available (mA): 500
Current Required (mA): 40
IR Receiver:
Product ID: 0x8242
Vendor ID: 0x05ac (Apple Inc.)
Version: 0.16
Speed: Up to 1.5 Mb/sec
Manufacturer: Apple Computer, Inc.
Location ID: 0x5d100000
Current Available (mA): 500
Current Required (mA): 100
USB High-Speed Bus:
Host Controller Location: Built In USB
Host Controller Driver: AppleUSBEHCI
PCI Device ID: 0x2836
PCI Revision ID: 0x0003
PCI Vendor ID: 0x8086
Bus Number: 0xfd
Built-in iSight:
Product ID: 0x8502
Vendor ID: 0x05ac (Apple Inc.)
Version: 1.60
Serial Number: 8T82D00GB0003L00
Speed: Up to 480 Mb/sec
Manufacturer: Apple Inc.
Location ID: 0xfd400000
Current Available (mA): 500
Current Required (mA): 500
Built-in iSight:
Product ID: 0x8502
Vendor ID: 0x05ac (Apple Inc.)
Version: 1.60
Serial Number: 8T82D00GB0003L00
Speed: Up to 480 Mb/sec
Manufacturer: Apple Inc.
Location ID: 0xfd400000
Current Available (mA): 500
Current Required (mA): 500
USB High-Speed Bus:
Host Controller Location: Built In USB
Host Controller Driver: AppleUSBEHCI
PCI Device ID: 0x283a
PCI Revision ID: 0x0003
PCI Vendor ID: 0x8086
Bus Number: 0xfa -
I live in the US and want to buy a MacBook Air with norwegian keyboard in the Apple Store. Is that possible?
In earlier years you can go th an Apple Store, buy a Macbook Pro and ask for a replacement to a other type of keyboard. I do this 2-3 times in the last years for german keyboards. If you done this on the same day you bought the macbook, the replacement happened without charge anything. It was a great service.
Yesterday i go back to the same store like before and both - the sales representative and the guys an the GeniusBar told me - that this is not offered by Apple anymore. Because the US Apple Online Store do not offer other Keyboards the US-based keyboards and the German Apple Online Store do not deliver to other countries the final conglusion from the Apple Stuff was:
Flight to germany, but it over their.
I see here in the Support community a lot of questions about norwegian, german and other kind of keyboards they want to buy in the US. Their is obviously a need for this. And from the logistic standpoint, it should be easy for Apple to offer that in the Online Stores itself.
For me the conglusaion is: I stay with my old Macbook Pro and hope i need no replacement within the next years. To order it in germany, ship it to a friend, pay taxes twice (in germany and vur customers) plus shipment, make it to expensive (bottonline: 600-800$ more than buy it in the US) make no sense to me.
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