WRT300N v2 - brick?

It's come to the time to add a new PC to the network.
I can ping 192.168.1.1
The router is working, both wired and wireless for all my computers.
I can access PCs on the house LAN
I can access websites ... as you can see I can post here !
The WEP key is working, the Router and my PCs are set up to use WEP
The MAC address filter is working, my PCs can access the router
The problem is that the management page does not work.
http://192.168.1.1 fails to display anything.
I have disabled windows firewall, so nothing should be getting in my way.
I've tried power off/on and pressing the reset button.
So is my router now an unconfigurable electronic brick?
Any suggestions please !!
PAul

Hard reset worked !
But my fingers hurt
Holding in the paperclip to press the reset button for half a minute really knackered my arthritic joints.
But at least now I've got it working.
I had to reconfigure everything from scratch as expected.
Discovered Vista uses a different acronym for the shared key encryption but once I selected the right one each end it worked.
The key is when resetting to KEEP the button pressed.
In the past I've just clicked it, WRONG.
Press and hold it.
Powerlight flickers to yellow and then green again.
Hold it.
Resets and power light returns to steady green, link lights flicker.
Hold it.
Powerlight flickers to yellow and then green again.
Hold it.
Power light returns to steady green, link lights flicker.
Let go.
And only then does it work from 192.168.1.1
If I don't let it go through two light cycles, it doesn't hard reset.
It just needs persistence and steady hands.
PAul

Similar Messages

Bricked WRT300N v1.1

I have the worst of luck. I was updating the firmware on my router when I knocked a book off my desk which pulled the power on the router and now its bricked. I can't ping it even if I set a static IP on my box. I have tried every reset button pushing technique with no success. The router seems to be in an infinite reboot cycle. The power LED will light up then off it goes, on again, then all of the LEDs will be on and constant and then it will repeat this cycle. It will end in either all LEDs remaining lit or the power and the LED for the port that the patch cable is plugged into will be lit and will show random activity (however I am still unable to ping it). HELP!
I know that if I can ping it then I can use tftp to dump the firmware on it, however nothing I have done has allowed me to be able to ping it!

If the process interupted while doing the firmware upgradation, the router can damage...you may try Pressing and holding the reset button for 2 minutes...Release the reset button...Unplug the power cable from your router, wait for 1 minute and re-connect the power cable..and check if you are able to ping the default gateway of router...

Need Help De-Bricking WRT300N v1.1

First off, yes I am an idiot. I DO in fact know better than to do this, and I did realize this would happen. It was 1AM and I got lazy and just messed up. Now I need some help.
I was installing DD-WRT on my router, and the flash went bad. Most likely because I didn't do a hard reset before flashing, but also possibly because I got impatient and reset the device after it was stuck at 98% for a good 3 minutes. My fault....
Now, the router just doesn't work. Can't ping it, doesn't assign IPs nothing. Is there anything I can do to bring this back to life?
Solved!
Go to Solution.

If You can ping the router then you should be able to TFTP the firmware to the router by ethernet cable. It shold not take very long. If you don't know how to TFTP it, then here is how : type in this in line into the command prompt : tftp -i 192.168.1.1 put (this is where you put your firmware to the router) and then press enter. The firmware should go where the parenthes are. The firmware should be typed in as it is shown in the command prompt.

WRT300n V1.0 - where is current firmware on web site??

I have a WRT300n V1 (not V1.1), and the support/download section dropdown for the WRT300n only lists V1.1 and V2 (no V1.0 or V1). The release notes for the V1.1 download caution this is for V1.1 HW *only*, and Wikipedia entry for V1.0 HW says the HW is truly different (different broadcom chipset, etc.)
Can anybody tell me where the V1 (V1.0) firmware is located? Don't want to turn my router into a brick...
Thanks!

I was able to download and install sucessfully firmware v1.2 for the WRT300 v1 router. It is a long URL
Long URL
If that link doesn't work as I hoped, use URL which ends with 01:
a href="http://www-ca.linksys.com/servlet/Satellite?c=L_Download_C2&childpagename=CAen/Layout&cid=1153781261058&packedargs=sku=1153781418679&pagename=Linksys/Common/VisitorWrapper&lid=6105812181B01

HOW TO CONFIGURE WRT300N TO USE AS A REPEATER OR BIRDGE TO IMPROVE SIGNAL UPSTAIRS

Hi,
I have purchased the WRT610N which is located downstairs
I now have WRT300n which was my old router as spare.
Is it possible to place and configure 300N as a signal booster wirelessly in a room upstairs directly above the 610N so that the signal from the 610N can be stronger in my other room upstairs which is at the other end of the house from where the 610N is placed downstairs.
Please could somebody advise.
Kind Regards
Nilesh

It is not advisable to use 3rd Party Firmware upgrades as this will void the warranty of the router. Chances are, you might brick the router and render it unusable if not properly upgraded.
Use this at your own risk. Here's the site. Check first if your router is supported. Make sure to read the forum carefully before proceeding. You have been warned.

How to enable wireless access point for WRT300N

From product data, "First, there’s the Wireless Access Point, which lets you connect to the network without wires."
I already have a WRT54GX-V2 setup to modem.
My intention for this WRT300N is to extend the network connectivity without any lan cable running along my house for those devices which only support LAN wire.
Try to search/google around, there is no hint/help to configure AP in WRT300N.
May I know how should I configure WRT300N so that i will be as an access point to WRT45GX-V2 without any wired connection between these 2 router.
Thanks.

Is that mean I can do that with WAP4400N only if we want to sustain wireless-N mode?
Yes. With standard firmware, yes. (If there is a N WET wireless bridge, that would do it, too, of course)
Is there any way to configure WRT300N to connect to WRT54GX by wireless?
It may be possible if you can flash third party firmware like dd-wrt on the router (either one). I would suggest to check the dd-wrt wiki for notes on which routers are supported and which not. However, a bad flash may brick your router and it is probably not covered by warranty then...
If use wired connection, do I need to change any configuration vs. default factory setup?
If you can run a wire I would suggest this setup.
EDIT: as Ricewind correctly noted, the Linksys WETs are the wireless bridges. The WRE is a repeater.
Message Edited by gv on 04-13-2008 02:25 PM

New to the WRT300N - Firmware & help needed

Hi. First off, I apologize that this is going to be very long. I really hope someone will take the time to read it all and give me some help.
I posted about a week ago about problems with my WRT54GS. All of a sudden with no changes, the wireless stopped working. I tried for a few days to fix it with no luck. I decided to order the WRT300N (I figured if I was going to buy a new one, I'd upgrade and this is the one that Linksys recommended).
I should mention that after ordering the new router, the wireless on the old one started working again but it wasn't working normal. The signal quality had always pretty much been excellent and now it started going up & down but at least it was staying connected.
The new router came today. I disconnected the old one and connected the new one and everything went smoothly. Both my wired & wireless computers worked great. Less than an hour later, the wireless disconnected. I went to view available networks and my network (I use our last name) was gone. I shut off the laptop and it still didn't see the network. So I started looking at the router settings just to be sure that nothing had changed. About 15 minutes later, the laptop found the network and connected again. The signal quality dropped to good and has stayed there ever since.
Just for information, when the laptop is on the desk (which it is 90% of the time), it's only about 5 feet away from the router. I have not tried to take the laptop out of the room yet. Also more information if it helps. I have a large "U" shaped desk. My monitor for my desktop sits in the middle. On either side are the speakers. To my left (in front of me) is a UPS (plugged into this UPS is the tower, monitor, speakers, cradle for my mouse, modem & router), then the tower (I can't put it on the floor because I have physical issues that would prevent me from accessing it there). Now if I turn my chair to the left, the desk has an upper level. This is where my DSL modem & the router are. They are on the end near where the computer is on the lower level. This is the same setup we were using before. Old router worked great for almost 2 years with signal strength at excellant on the laptop. It just started acting up all of a sudden. If I go back to facing center and then turn to the right, that's where my husband's laptop sits. The only other equipment there is a calculator and a lamp and on the floor is another UPS which has his laptop (which has an Intel wireless G card in it), a laser printer, and the above mentioned calculator & lamp plugged in.
Prior to today, I had the Logitech MX3100 keyboard & mouse set. I had purchased a new mouse (Logitech MX Revolution). So I was using the keyboard from the MX3100 with the new mouse and everything was fine running that way for weeks before the problem kicked in. So I don't think it's got anything to do with the mouse. Today's setup is a little different. I am no longer using the MX3100 keyboard. I am using Logitech DiNovo Edge, which uses a bluetooth dongle. I also don't think it's any interference from this keyboard since this is a pre-existing problem.
I do have a cordless phone in the room (it's on the left hand side of the desk from where I sit at the opposite end from the modem & router...also it's one of those that doesn't need a phone line)but it's a 5.8 ghz.
The old router had the option to change the channel, etc. This one has auto for standard channel & wide channel & there's no way to change it that I can see. Radio band is also set to auto but does have 2 choices under it (standard & wide). As I said before, I use our last name for our SSID. It's the same one I've been using for years. There is no one else around here with that SSID. Network mode is mixed.
Concerning the firmware....the information for mine is WRT300N V1.1 firmware v1.51.2. I tried to look for an update but the only one in the list is the WRT300N V1.0. I did click on that but the firmware version is lower and I don't want to screw anything up. Is there a firmware update for me or not? If so, please point me in the right direction as I can't find it.
Concerning the signal strength....would it help to buy a new wireless card for the laptop? The Intel card has been updated with the newest software. The card is internal and to my knowledge can only be replaced with the same card or a bluetooth card. (Computer is a Dell XPS M140.) I do have a card slot but I'm confused because I think Dell called it an Express Card slot and I don't know whether or not the Linksys notebook card that is recommended for this router would work in this slot. If the card would work, is it worth the expense?
What else can I try. I thought about moving the router furthur to the left but it would require moving a few other items and I'm not sure if the cords are long enough. Would it help if the router & modem were not plugged into the same UPS? I do have a regular surge protecter near where my phone is. I would really rather leave them plugged into the UPS though for obvious reasons.
Also if it helps, I have the router on it's side with the 2 antennas on the end pointing straight up and the flat one in the middle I have angled this way.
I hope I have given enough information for some suggestions.
Thanks,
Lisa

Thanks for the response. I was wondering if anyone would take the time to read such a long post. I wanted to be sure to try to give as much information as possible.
My desktop (Dell XPS400) tower is made out of metal...but the router is actually not sitting on it. There is a shelf to the left of my tower (when I'm facing it, otherwise it's to the right of it). That's where the modem & router sit. The shelf sits about 3" over from the edge of the computer and it's about 7" above it.
As far as the wireless card for my husband's laptop...I'm still thinking about it. I'm wondering if there would be any improvement in speed or the quality of the connection with the N card.
Now I just went into the router's settings and tried to make the changes you suggested. I was able to change the radio band from auto to wide BUT once I do that, I loose the ability to leave the wide channel & standard channels on auto. The options for the wide channel are 3-9 and the standard are 1 & 5. I don't know which ones are best to pick so for now I'm not changing anything. I didn't change the advanced settings either as I wasn't sure if I could do that without changing the other settings first.
My husband has noted that he does see the quality of the connection occasionally jump to excellant. For the most part it's staying on good in here. We haven't brought it out into the living room yet to see what it does out there. He hasn't needed to. He has had it disconnect on him a couple of times as well.
I did forgot to mention in that book I wrote that we do live in an apartment building. We are on the 1st floor in the back of the building. Our office is between our living room & another bedroom. There is an apartment above us. There is another apartment on the other side of the other bedroom. Our bathroom is across the hall from this room, other side of that is the kitchen and then there is an apartment in the front of the building. Our front door is off the living room, a hallway seperates our apartment from another one. There are 4 apartments on each floor. Laundry (directly under us) & storage in basement.
I give all these details to try to get the best help. I don't know if all this extra info is helpful or not. We have been using Linksys routers for quite a few years now. This is our 3rd one and our 2nd wireless one. We have been in this apartment for a year now and had no trouble until a few weeks ago. Previously lived in another apartment of the same floor plan in the same complex but on the 3rd floor (boy did we hate walking up those stairs!) with no trouble.
Looking forward to hearing back from you so I can try to make the changes you suggested.
Thanks,
Lisa

Will Apple cover me if updating to iOS5 on ipod Touch 3rd gen ruins/bricks it?

I have heard stories of some people's apple products not working/bricked after attempting to upgrade to iOS5.
I have a 1.5 year old ipod Touch 3rd gen. No warranty on it from Apple (tho I do have one from Square Trade for ADH, but I called them and they said if it is a software issue, they don't cover it.)
I am very concerned about d/ling the ios5 upgrade and it ruining my ipod touch. In effect, I will take a device that could fetch almost $200 on ebay (which I could then use to upgrade to a Touch 5gen), and turn it into a worthless piece of junk if I upgrade and it ruins it.
Also, I know that they have released 5.0.1 (beta I believe?) for update. I still read stories on here from people waiting until now (Nov, a month after it was first released when so many people tried to d/l it and had terrible problems), but now are still getting network timed out error msgs, etc.
So is there ANY protection from Apple if their update should screw my ipod touch??
Should I just wait longer for a final, stable version of ios 5? (like v5.1) Or just totally skip the iOS 5 upgrade and stay safe with iOS 4? I don't know that it is really worth the $200 loss risk to upgrade to iOS5. (i.e. 3rd gen doesn't have the ability to find and lock/wipe my lost touch, etc.)
I do know that I should:
1) install itunes 10.5 anew on my laptop (itunes and syncing WAS done on my tower, until I just got it back from being serviced for some Major problems/virues/malware/etc. I'm not comfortable using it, as the problems on it included not being able to start Local Services, connect to the internet, no audio services, etc. The guy says it is booting up and services are working now, but you never know....But i digress...)
2) be on AC and not battery on my laptop
3) be hardwired (ethernet) to the internet and not use my wireless connection
4) turn off Windows 7 Firewall, and disable my PC Tools Spyware Docter with Antivirus.
So, what do you all think? should I wait until later to upgrade to say os 5.1? Should I even RISK upgrading to iOS5 on a touch 3gen and lose almost $200 cash? And will Apple give me ANY protection should it ruin my touch? (I seriously doubt it.)
Thanks for input.
Dave
Kentucky

Before proceeding with the update, it wouldn't hurt to manually back up the iPod in iTunes by right->clicking on it from under the Devices section and choosing Backup. See this article for more information on what is stored in the backup.
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4946
Also make sure that any content you may have synced to the device from iTunes, such as Music, movies, TV Shows, podcasts, etc. are all stored on your computer and in iTunes before updating the iPod's version of iOS.
Otherwise, I would go ahead with the upgrade. I didn't have any issues with it on my iPhone.
B-rock

Iphone 6 touch ID did not working , then restored and it bricked

I'm very depressed now. My iphone 6 is not working. Touch ID didn't work so I restored and updated to 8.1.3 and it stuck at 50% and showed the error 53 then bricked . I bought it in New Zealand and I'm working in another country. What should I do now ?

Hey David,
The troubleshooting suggestions in this article will resolve most issues like the one that you’ve described, where you saw the alert message when attempting to restore your iPhone 6.
Resolve iOS update and restore errors in iTunes - Apple Support
Cheers,
-Jason

My mid-2011 MacBook Air bricks itself after 10.7.2 update

I have a new MacBook Air (11") that was working just great, until today. Today, I used Software Update to install the updates, which included 10.7.2 as well as the recue partition update.
I did everything you're supposed to do, and when it rebooted, the gray screen comes up, and it shows the spinny doohickey on the bottom showing that it's working. Then, suddenly, up pops a big "no" icon (the circle with the slash through it) after about 60 seconds.
It simply doesn't do anything after that.
Hard-power-off, wait, power-on, repeat, same thing.
So I reboot with cmd-R to get the rescue partition. It works fine; I ask it to re-install Mac OS X, which then takes about 45 minutes (argh). Finally, Mac OS X is back, the machine is nicely booted up, all my files are there, everything is good.. But of course, the reinstall took me back to 10.7.1.
All I want to do is upgrade my fricking iPhone to IOS 5.0, but I can't do that without knowing I can sync which requires iCloud which of course requires 10.7.2. So I *have* to re-do the upgrade.
Back to Software Update, back to installing 10.7.2. And .. 20 minutes later .. back to bricked MacBook Air.
What a waste of my time. What a failure, Apple. I'm very very very very very unhappy that I've wasted so much time just to update my damned iPhone to IOS 5. I'm still without an update. Now I'm trying to figure out how to move my iTunes to another machine -- not nearly as obvious as it should be. ARGH. I'm going to throw this MacBook Air off the balcony in about 10 minutes. :-(
Thanks for listening.
Steve

Wow, you're right -- I can't believe it. I just really can't believe they would screw up so badly, yet when I search for "10.7.2 filevault" I don't find more than a couple of articles about it on the web (including this thread). Why on earth wouldn't Apple have put up some kind of warning about this? I can't believe it, really. It's insane.
On my newly-functional 10.7.2 MBA, I wanted to test your theory and so I turned on filevault 2 and encrypted the main disk again. It of course wanted me to reboot. So I rebooted. And *blammy* -- same error / boot failure. Wow. Also, interestingly, even on a working 10.7.2 system, you can't mount a USB drive that was encrypted using Filevault 2 encryption (in Disk Utility, e.g., as a "Mac OS X, journalled, encrypted" volume that was encrypted with DiskUtility on Lion 10.7.1). I still have a 10.7.1 machine that I will not upgrade until I can at least decrypt the disk -- but right now, Disk Utility tells me it fails decrypting the external USB disk so I'm hosed!!! ARGH.
Now, going back to the booting problem after upgrade -- for anyone's reference who's still keeping score -- you can easily recover from the booting problem with upgrading a Filevault 2 root drive: Power-cycle the machine and then hold down cmd-r to bring up the Lion Recovery application. Within Lion Recovery, choose "Disk Utility", and then click on the (as yet unmounted, still encrypted) root hard drive to select it. Then go to the File menu, and choose "Turn off encryption" for this disk. It then prompts you for the password, and if you enter it, *blammy* you're back up and running again.
In my case, the disk had only just begun encrypting so the action was instant, and then once it confirmed the disk was now decrypted, I simply chose "Restart" from the Apple menu, and I was back in business (no hairy re-installs to deal with). If this is an already-encrypted volume, presumably it'll take you a bit longer (the normal 45-minutes to 2 hours) to decrypt it. But at least no more installing software -- it'll "just work".
Maybe I'll go post a simpler version of these instructinos on the other threads, but this is the simplest fix -- just turn off filevault 2 from within Lion Recovery, basically, and that fixes the boot problems.
Apple, if you're listening, you really really really need to say something to your users so they know. Many many many MBA users are likely to have still not upgraded. You can prevent them from hating you and your products by making sure they don't screw the pooch here. Short version: Mid-2011 MacBook Airs running Filevault 2 WILL NOT BOOT after 10.7.2 update; so users should turn off Filevault2 before upgrading.
Steve

3GS freezes on upgrade ipHone 4.0.2 - it's a brick now!

Hi,
I Have a 3GS on contract from O2 in the UK. Last night I got the note in iTunes to say that 4.0.2 is ready for installing. I was on 4.0.1 and have the lastest iTunes in Win 7 / 32-bit. So I did a sync, and started the upgrade. Unfortunately it stalled at some point and just froze.
So I removed the USB plug and got to the "restore iPhone" point, and clicked on "Restore" in iTunes. That unpacked the already downloaded software, verified with Apple, and started the restore. Unfortunately that gets about 3/4 along the progress bar in iTunes and 1/4 on the iPhone - and stalls.
So I tried a few things:
- reinstalled iTunes
- restarted Windows and tried again
- downloaded jpsw files for 4.0.1 and 4.0.2 (iPhone2,14.0.1_8A306Restore and iPhone2,14.0.2_8A400Restore) and pointed to these when I Shift-Clicked on the restore button. With the 4.0.2 it starts up, but freezes at the same point. With 4.0.1 it says something about being an incorrect version and doesn't attempt an installation.
I can't see anything else to try and my iPhone is a brick - please help!!

Hi again. Panic over. I deleted the ipsw file in %AppData% and started agai - and it seems to have gone well. The phone seems to work again.

Did I just brick my board? MSI P67A-GD55

So I decided to flash my BIOS to the newest version. I downloaded the newest BIOS and proceeded to flash the BIOS with the MSI utility. After the computer restarted it beeped a couple of times like usual, but it did not continue to windows after that and the screen went black. I saw that the USB stick was being used(light on the USB stick was flashing) so I didn't do anything.
But even after about 45 minutes nothing at happened, the screen was still black. I was reading around online and some people said to clear the CMOS if this happens. After I cleared CMOS and restarted the computer, I got no beeps and no video signal at all. And now nothing happens at all. It does not even beep like usual.
I removed all the ram and restarted the computer and that time I got 3 long beeps. When I put them back in nothing happened like before. So did I brick my board? Is there any way to bring this board back to life? This board was advertised as having a Bios recovery feature(M flash) anyone know how I can use that?
Thanks for your help.
BTW, I am already going to get a new board, but I won't have it until at least the end of this month. Anyone know how long MSI RMAs take? Will they even RMA the board?
Not related, but I was also having a problem with fan control on this motherboard. No matter what the CPU fan would run at max speed.
Specs of my build:
i7 2700K
MSI P67A GD 55 Rev B
16GB Team 1600Mhz RAM
MSI 660Ti PE OC
520W Antec Neo Eco PSU
1 TB Seagate Barracuda

Quote from: xmad on 10-March-13, 10:25:51
If you sent it to MSI in the USA, that is odd as they usually turn things around in 7 working days. If it is a re-seller or outside of the USA it is hard to say how long it will take.
In the usa to check for status, email [email protected] Place the RMA# in your subject and ask for an update.
Yeah this is in the US, the place I sent the motherboard to is only like 3 hours from my house actually.
I'll send them a email. Their online tracker doesn't seem to be updated that often and I can't even go to the tracking page right now for some reason.

Trouble connecting WRT300N to the Playstation 3 (PSN)

OK so I just bought a new Linksys Router (WRT300N) upgraded from the WRT54GS, which was having issues connecting to the PSN.
So now Ive hooked up my new router and still getting the same issues... PSN connection timing out.
Ive tried everything under the sun for both routers... port forwarding, DMZ, disabling any security on my routers, firmware upgrade... you name it.
Im wondering if anyone has the new router I have and had problems connecting to the PSN and if you were able to fix it??? If so how...
I should note too, that if I go wired from my PS3 to my internet modem... it works A ok... but Id prefer not to have a 75 foot long ethernet cable running around our house...
Help
Cheers in advance!
Message Edited by JIGGGsaw on 01-02-2008 03:27 PM

JIGGGsaw wrote:
Nada.... Ive done most of the obvious stuff... port forwarding, DMZ, static IP. The odd thing is... my neighbor has the same PS3 I have 60 gig, same router, same ISP... I cant figure out whats wrong with this...
Please help...
Hi JIGGGsaw ,
Few things in mind you should take care of once trying to perform the settings on router.
1. enabled the DMZ - with the static ip let says - 192.168.1.55
2. Click security Tab > unchek filter anonymous internet request.- save settings.
3. administration tab > check if UPnP is enable ,if not then enable it .
4. Now once if , you are not able to connect through wireless networking Option in PS3. then try adding the Networking settings manually Like-
Ip address - 192.168.1.55
Subnet mask- 255.255.255.0
Gateway      - 192.168.1.1
DNS settings -
Primary DNS - 4.2.2.2
Secondary DNS - 192.168.1.1
NOTE : First Try With only WEP security level or unsecured network if it works , then later change the security.
NOTE 2: Wireless settings : Radio band- standard 20mhz
                                                          wide: 3
                                                   standard : 11,9,1,6 (any one)
Let me know the status now?
pe@c3
~~~Nobudy's Perfect , i try To Be So ! Each n every moment of maH LYF , AND I THINK dat wats make Me "Different" From others....~~~

ZR will not update - Phone is a brick

My 2 month old Xperia ZR (purchased unlocked from Amazon at $549 US) is now a brick. I bought this phone for its ability to survive underwater, dust resistance and drop test. It seems just the rugged phone that I needed for 24x7x365 support duty.
Well, I should have asked if the phone would survive an upgrade. Apparently, it does not.
Performing the 10.3.1.A.2.67 system upgrade failed as I used PC Companion on Win7. I was warned it would take 30 minutes for the upgrade by PC Companion. At 26 minutes, I received an error message. The retry also failed. Then, the driver would not load and Win7 kept telling me the ZR was an unknown USB dev ice.
BUT, by this time, my phone was a brick. It would turn on, show the SONY logo and, then, turn off.
So, I call Sony Mobile Tech Support (1-866-766-9374 or 1-877-7XPERIA). Mayelin sent my a procedure to try in recovering my phone. No go. So, I call back and talk to Jamie. She doesn't even want to read my case notes (1-840176438). She goes to read the notes and transfers me to Mr. Dialtone. I call back and take to Natasha and ask for a Supervisor. Apparently, Sony does not staff their Call Centers with Supervisors. So, she asks for my number in order to have someone in Escalations call me back. No, she did not know when the callback would take place nor any timeframe like that there.
After 25 years of technical support experience in data networks, I know bull**bleep** when I hear it. There really ought to be a law that mandates Supervisors be present and available at all times a support call center is operating. The support bull**bleep** performed by companies such as Sony, and/or its outsource support vendors, is just criminal considering how much their products cost. Very unprofessional and user hostile.
I have included the procedure sent to me by Mayelin. It may be of help to some other poor and unfortunate person who might have also bought this Hercules of a phone.
I will wait until Monday when I might be able to get a Supervisor. I will then discuss how useless it is for me to undergo their 7-10 business days "evaluation" return-to-factory service when their system upgrade killed my phone. I would expect and advance replacement on the next business day at the very least. BUT, apparently, $549 does not get you this when you buy one of these indestructible phones.
How sad. Has Sony quality really come to this? I own a lot of Sony A/V and some professional products. I just bought one of their new VAIO laptops at top dollar from a Sony Store (Stanford Shopping Center).
If this experience has taught me anything is that I should probably stick to Sony Ericsson or not buy Sony Mobile products at all. My old Sony-Ericsson T515 never gave me any hiccups as big as this Xperia ZR is giving me.
ZRSUCKS
Dear ZRSUCKS,
Thank you for contacting Sony Xperia™ Online Support.
We have an extended guide that should help you fix the issue on your phone, please follow the instructions carefully:
Visit this link:
http://www.sonymobile.com/us/tools/pc-companion/
Click on Download PC Companion
Run the software and install it
Turn the phone off and disconnect it from the computer
1. No matter what the program says do not connect the phone until you complete step 9
2. In the welcome screen you will see the different modules available for you including the "Support Zone" option. Click on "Start" below it.
3. On the next page Click on "Start" under "Phone Software Update"
At this point if you get an error stating that "Unable to install update components" or "Server is busy" , then please proceed to step 12
4. The program will say that there is no phone connected. Click on the option below that reads: "Repair my phone" the program will issue you a warning about the content that you will lose during the update
5. Choose the option to continue.
6. The program will issue a final message warning you of possible data lost during the update. Click on the checkmark and then on "Next".
7. After that, the program will download the necessary information (5 to 6 minutes) and it will present you with a list of phones.
8. Choose your phones model from the list then click on "Next" then you will see a new section telling you how to connect the phone. (don't connect it yet)
At this point the phone must be off and disconnected from the PC.
9. Connect the cable to the PC not to the phone, then while pressing and holding the indicated button (in the steps on screen an specific button will be shown for you to press on the phone) connect the cable to the phone and keep holding the indicated button until the program says "the update of your phone has started..." (in some cases a message of "Installing drivers" will appear before the message of "the update of your phone has started..." is shown.)
10. If you failed to follow the steps correctly the phone will turn on and it will request that you "Proceed with the following steps, slide down the notification bar", If this happens disconnect the phone from the cable, turn it off and repeat from step 9).
11. If the phone is connected properly, PC Companion will proceed with the update ( It will tell you to let go of the back key) then wait for the update to finish and follow instructions on screen to disconnect the unit.
Dear Customer,
12. If "Unable to install update components"
1. Close PC Companion
2. Install Java from: http://www.java.com
3. Start PC Companion again and try to do the software unlock process once more.
Note: If you wish only to update the unit wait for the program to open and then select the quick link on the upper left corner that says "Update Phone/Tablet" and follow the instructions to perform the update. (the PC may request for the phone to be placed in Mass Storage mode. Do this by going into Settings>Xperia>Connectivity>USB connection mode)
As part of Sony Mobile's commitment to excellent customer service, we offer a wide variety of mobile products to suit your lifestyle. If you require more information, or have any other questions, please visit www.sonymobile.com or call us at 1-866-766-9374 .
Kind Regards,
Mayelin
Sony Xperia US Customer Services

Use SUS instead
Update Service (SUS)
http://www.sonymobile.com/gb/tools/update-service/
http://www-support-downloads.sonymobile.com/Software%20Downloads/Update_Service_Setup-2.11.12.5.exe
Don't forget to give Kudos (Click on the half star + )
"I'd rather be hated for who I am, than loved for who I am not." Kurt Cobain (1967-1994)

MacBook Pro 8,2 bricked radeon/i915 even outside linux

My hardware:
MacBook Pro 8,2
core i7, 8GB Ram, Radeon HD 6400M Series GPU, 1680x1050 non-glare screen
After having done a lot of reading, I tried to install Arch Linux onto my MacBook Pro. I re-installed MacOS, did all updates, and followed the wiki instructions. After a couple of failed attempts to get GRUB to EFI-boot from the Apple bootloader (carefully avoiding the usage of efibootmgr), I finally managed to EFI-boot the base system via reFind and EFISTUB. I quickly was able to set up everything I need, only X would work only with the radeon driver. But since I went through all the trouble to EFI-boot the machine solely for the purpose of being able to use the i915 graphics, I tried all the kernel paramters (radeon.modeset=0 and all the i915 parameters that are mentioned all over the places in all sorts of recommended/mentioned combinations). But no luck, startx would always exit with a "no screens found" message when configuring xorg.conf to use the "intel" driver. Needless to say, both xf86-video-radeon and xf86-video-intel were installed. Using the module acpi_call and doing "sudo turn_off_gpu.sh" ends up with "failed" messages only. Doing "lspci | grep VGA" returns both intel and AMD graphics adapter, so I should actually have successfully booted in EFI mode. I started blacklisting the radeon module, but lspci -k still shows the radeon module for the gpu. The only thing I did not try is adding the "outb" lines to GRUB as I'm not using GRUB and was very reluctant to change anything about my working EFI boot setup. Finally, I decided to try vgaswitcheroo. I read that I need to enable debugfs in the fstab before, so I added the line "debugfs /sys/kernel/debug debugfs 0 0" to fstab. Careful as I am, I rebooted before installing vgaswitcheroo.
And from then on, arch linux boots into a black screen. I can log in if I switch to tty1 or another and type blind, and I can reboot that way. Just as a routine, I try to boot up MacOS, and it also boots into a black screen. This has always worked so far, I tried that regularly. I totally panick and grab an Ubuntu 12.04 CD that happens to lie around and boot it via the apple bootloader in bios compatibility mode (which worked, before, too). It also boots into black screen. Even the darn MacOS Install DVD boots into a black scren now!
But I'm not the one that gives up easily. Since Arch displays all the boot messages until it loads the virtual console (I think), I messed around with the kernel parameters again and it turns out I can get to console login if I use radeon.modeset=0. I configured X to use the fbdev driver again, and there you go, I get graphical login and whatnot with radeon.modeset=0. Still, even though fbdev is used, the temperature is around 70 to 80 degrees Celsius. I decide to finally install vgaswitcheroo (systemd-vgaswitcheroo-units), since the whole thing is bricked anyway, and enable it via systemd. Radeon module is blacklisted. I still am only able to reach graphical or console target when radeon.modeset=0 is set, but now I got a X running with desktop effects on fbdev driver and around 50 degrees Ceslius temperature. Still, every other OS boots into black screen.
I seem to have completely messed up everything. Strangely enough, the arch system seems to be completely usable (except that it wakes up from suspend with that black screen now), but it seems to be the only system that can be run on that machine now. I would greatly appreciate any help on what might have gone wrong or what I could try to enable the gpu for other systems again.
Edit: I seem to have managed to brick reFind now, too. While trying to boot the MacOS Installation medium it seems to have magically "fixed" the EFI partition leaving me with no reFind at all now. There's no way I can access that stupid thing anymore. Gotta send it in, probably (
Last edited by halogene (2013-05-29 15:57:58)

I'm still reluctant to give up on that bricked machine... Since it is able to display part of the boot up messages of the arch install cd and the previously working installation showed everything until loading of the virtual console (at least that's what I believe it did when the screen went black), it looks to me that the problem lies in initializing a different graphical output. That would also explain why I was able to initialize X only with the fbdev driver... and the screen didn't flicker during boot-up when I did radeon.modeset=0 so I assume it stayed on framebuffer mode all along.
Does anyone know of a boot medium that boots into framebuffer video mode even though a GPU is present? All I'd need is a bash or similar shell. I can load into the UEFI shell with arch install CD, but I'm not familiar with that shell and it follows a different syntax than I am used to, as it is designed for an entirely different purpose. If anyone knows a boot medium that does not try to pipe the graphical output through the gpu (or the integrated i915 graphics). Must be something like this around?
Last edited by halogene (2013-05-31 08:16:13)

WRT300N v2 - brick?

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