Zombie Short Film Shot on Eos Rebel T2i

Hello everyone. We have decided to shoot a pre-trailer to a zombie short film we are in production for. This was shot on the Eos Rebel T2i with its standard lens, and a 50mm lens. I am proud to say I own one of these amazing cameras.
We were inspired to create our own short film inspired by the Walking Dead. In this new generation, a young leader by the name of Clarissa is left to lead the group of teenagers her age as well as others that fall into their lives. The group encounter enemies that are not just the dead. The Apocalypse has revolved around everyone, no matter of the age. The group faces new threats, the wisdom of the leader is question and a new unimaginable circumstance falls into play. We introduce our creation of the Hybrid, who is half human and half Carrier, otherwise known as a zombie. Could he be more than just a Hybrid? Or could there be more to the endurance of his life and why he lives being both? Stay tuned and find out!
Although the short film may still be in production, we have created a pre-trailer to give you the style of the film
If you like what you see, please like, and share us on Facebook
https://www.facebook.com/LifeAfterDeathShortFilm
If you wish to see this short Film made, please vote for us at the International Movie Trailer Festival
http://www.internationalmovietrailerfestival.com/all-trailers/life-after-death-short-film/

Really awesome short video. You should promote your videos.
If you want to do promotion of your short videos then you should post your vidoes on social networking sites and post or add your videos on websites such as movie25.ws, solarmovie etc etc.

Similar Messages

35mm slr to EOS rebel T2i transition.

I have used many a SLR camera in my time & even some digital point & shoot, But last christmas my wife suprised me with an EOS Rebel T2i, I was wondering how hard it is to transition? I have been taking some pics with it but have not really got into any of the major settings. any help would be greatful.

Picture taking won't be much of a transition at all. In fact you probably already know more about photography than the majority of dSLR owners. The learning curve will be with post processing and some miscellaneous camera features that you may not be familiar with.
How good are you with computers? I highly recommend getting a copy of Lightroom or Aperture (Apple users). It'll be a little tricky at first, but it's worth learning.
As far as the camera, it'll have a whole bunch of completely useless settings (if you're coming from film). I'd shoot in full manual, Av, and Tv. You should have enough photography knowledge to not use the fancy settings they put for people who don't know how to use a camera.
Welcome to digital, don't hesitate to take a lot of shots, memory is cheap!

EOS Rebel T2i: the in built flash is not working. What is going on?

I have my EOS Rebel T2i since 2011. But now, the flash compartment is not functioning right. Any time I need use the flash, the flash's "door" does not open and give me a error message.
What is going on with the camera??
Thank you,
Ingrid

The three noises you hear are the camera pulling back the latch to allow the flash to pop-up. The catch is spring-loaded and motorized. The flash is also spring-loaded so that once the catch is retracted (looks like a small hook) the flash should just spring-up into firing position.
When the flash is pushed down to close, there's a tiny button which it presses (a micro-switch) which tells the camera that the flash is down. When the camera attempts to release the catch, it expects the micro-switch (button) to pop-up thus indicating that the flash popped up. If it does not, it tries again. After three tries, it will give up and display Err 05.
The fact that you hear the noise tells us that the motor is working.
As you inspect the camera body and specifically the area of the flash, does everything look ok? Any signs of damage?
There could be dirt jamming the mechasm. If anyone has spilled anything on it (e.g. a sugary drink) then it could sticky.
You can *try* this: Press the button to raise the flash while applying a _very_ gentle prying pressure (do NOT use strong force -- don't want to break anything. Just give it a tiny assist so that if it is merely sticky it might just need a little help.
If it is not physically damaged, then it likely needs to be cleaned.
I have seen articles on the internet that suggest you oil it... I would NEVER apply "oil" to my camera. I would probably use a can of compressed air and blow out the hinge area and without fully closing the flash, work it up and down a few times so that if a bit of dirt or dust is jamming the hinge then you would hopefully work it free. Incidentally... don't use compressed air cans on any camera optics. There's a propellant in the can and it can leave a residue on surfaces if you aren't careful. Normally if a can is not shaken and is held "level" the propellant will not spray out. But it will spray out if shaken or if not level and that propellant will leave a hazy residue on the surface.
If this doesn't work, I would not "oil" the camera (that oil can manage to get into a lot of places where you don't want it and a small expense could turn into a larger one) -- I would send the camera in for professional service.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

Final Cut Express/Canon EOS Rebel T2i

     I recently bought a Canon EOS Rebel T2i. I have come across other questions on this forum regarding importing video to Final Cut. There was mention of a Canon EOS plugin. I'm hoping to be able to import using Log and Transfer. Is the plugin the way to go rather than converting H.264 in Mpeg Streamclip? Is the EOS plugin now compatible with the T2i and compatible with Final Cut Express? What codec should the Canon files be converted to?
    Thank You,
    Cue

If you're working in FCE, then the files need to be converted to AIC (for HD or SD) or to QuickTime DV (for SD only). Those are the only two video formats that FCE works with natively.
I don't know if the Canon plugin works with FCE or not or even if it works for the T2i - you will need to check Canon's website for that information.
-DH

EOS rebel T2i battery is dying really quick. Is there a setting that uses the battery?

I replaced my battery in my 2 year old rebel T2i because the battery started dying a lot sooner. The new battery didn't last much longer. I have the "Auto Power Off" setting to 30 seconds. Is there another setting that will keep the battery / camera on or is there some other problem? OR, is there a way to reboot the system to factory defaults? Thanks.

I did a search at images.google.com for "canon t2i menu" and noticed that I can find versions with 2 yellow wrenches as well as 3 yellow wrenches.
Here's a link to your camera's manual at the Canon site.
http://gdlp01.c-wss.com/gds/9/0300004289/02/eosrt2i-eos550d-im3-c-en.pdf
The instructions are on page 144 -- but it definitely shows that it's the 3rd wrench tab based on that manual.
This many be related to firmware version.
The last firmware for that camera is version 1.0.9. You can find it here: http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/support/consumer/eos_slr_camera_systems/eos_digital_slr_cameras/eos_re...
Updating firmware is fairly easy but they DO want you to have a freshly charged battery (and you said your battery is dying "really quick" -- not sure how long that actually is. It takes just a few minutes to apply new firmware but it would be bad if the camera died before the update completed.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

Aperture doesn't recognize RAW pics from the Canon EOS Rebel t2i

I just bought a Canon t2i, and Aperture. I shot a few pics in RAW, in order to learn how to use both the camera and the software. When I plug in the camera, I can see all the pics, however once I upload them into Aperture, they appear to have no image. Does Aperture not recognize these because the camera is new? Am I missing something here? I'm new to this whole process... Any help would be appreciated...

Companies like Apple and Adobe have to reverse engineer the RAW formats produced by the camera companies. Therefore, there's some lag time between the release of a camera and support for that camera. The amount of time varies, but Canon cameras usually get support fairly quickly. Just use Software Update to keep your computer up to date. Note: these camera RAW updates usually come in the form of an OS update.
Welcome to the forum.
DLS
list of supported cameras
http://www.apple.com/aperture/specs/raw.html

Replacing glass LCD cover on a Canon EOS Rebel T2i digital camera

I've got a T2i and the protective cover over the LCD screen is scratched. I've ordered the replacement screen and tape from Canon but there are no installation instructions. I've read some on Internet but was wondering if anyone had any experience/instructions on removing damaged screen and replacing it.
Thanks

This may help you.
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=922334
"A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

Canon Eos Rebel T2i

I currently have a 29-90mm lens and need to buy a lens for outdoor weddings, indoor band photos and general picture taking.
I also need to purchase and external flash for the indoor band photos.
Please help!
I have done many hours of research and I can't figure out which lens to go with that's under $1,000.00.
Thank You!

Wow, thank you so much! I greatly appreciate your help! Seems I've finally found someone who knows their stuff

I have a sequence shot on the 550d/rebel T2i, I converted it to prores 422 and edited in fcp. What is the best export that i can do to preserve quality and prevent pixelation.

i have a sequence shot on the 550d/rebel T2i, I converted it to prores 422 in MPEG Streamclip and edited in fcp. What is the best export that i can do to preserve quality and prevent pixelation. Rite now, i have been just clicking on the export to quicktime function, but the quality of the footage is completely reduced and colours look desaturated and there is pixellation compared to the original camera footage. Also is there anyway i can render and export the sequence using the original footage (like an online edit or something). Also is there anyway to upgrade the final quality. I have Compressor, Dvd Studio pro, Motion, Color and Cinema tools, i dnt know if they are of any use to me and have no idea how to use hem or what they are for also.

>What is the best export that i can do to preserve quality and prevent pixelation
The best way to export is entirely dependent on what you plan to do with the exported video. For example, if you plan to go to DVD, the export process is different than if you plan for web delivery or for iPhone viewing. Compressor has presets for most final delivery formats ... start with those.
>is there anyway i can render and export the sequence using the original footage
Yes. In FCP, go to File-Export->QuickTime Movie. Check the box to make the movie Self-Contained and use Current Settings. Do NOT "Recompress All Frames." The resulting self-contained movie will play on any Mac that has the needed audio and video codecs installed.
>is there anyway to upgrade the final quality
No and maybe. While you technically cannot improve quality over the original, you can possibly 'enhance' the aesthetic quality of the video using various filters in FCP or Color.
-DH

I shot a short film with my iPhone via iMovie and I was wondering if there was any way to finish it on my iPad?

I shot a short film with my iPhone via iMovie and I was wondering if there was any way to finish it on my iPad?

How to move Video into iPad, or transfer project:
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/3860083?tstart=240
There is a section in the help manual on transferring projects:
http://help.apple.com/imovie/iphone/1.3/index.html

I have a EOS Rebel Ti film camera which I used for business years ago, 3 lenses, wide angle to

telephoto. Is there a market for these and do the lenses work on current digital Canon cameras?

Mike wrote:
Hi jonesy!
Thanks for the post.
All EOS cameras, both 35mm and film, have the Canon EF lens mount. Any of our EOS Digital SLR cameras will work with the same lenses you were using with your EOS Rebel Ti.
The reference to "all EOS cameras, both 35mm and film" is sure to confuse some people, especially if this is the first time they've heard of a full-frame Rebel. And as most owners of digital Rebels are aware, not all EOS cameras have the EF lens mount, which does not accept EF-S lenses.
So I'd put it this way:
"All EOS film cameras have the Canon EF lens mount. Since all of our EOS digital cameras can accept lenses disigned for the EF mount, the lenses you were using on your EOS Rebel Ti will work on any EOS digital camera."
Bob
Boston, Massachusetts USA

Shadows in photos with Rebel T2i

Most of my indoor photos taken with my Rebel T2i have a shadow to the left of the subjects. I took the same photo with my Powershot s120 and did not get a shadow and am so very frustrated. I have tried with and without the hood and have ensured that the subject was not close to a wall. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. I have samples but I do not see a way to upload them to this site.

Assuming you are using the flash, the lens, lens hood, a camera strap, your hand or fingers, etc. can all cause these sorts of things.
Make sure the camera strap is out of the way. While your right hand is unlikely to block the flash (because it's on the grip and pressing the shutter button) the left hand should be supporting the camera from below (hold the left hand with palm facing up, then "rest" the camera in your hand so that your fingers can control the zoom ring from below (an "under-hand" grip -- not an "over-hand" grip). That'll keep that left hand away from the flash (it's also a steadier way to hold the camera and allows you to shoot at lower shutter speeds.)
If you've got a lens-hood on your lens but are shooting with flash, you might want to remove that hood. Long lenses can also be a problem with just the built-in pop-up flash (an external flash puts the light source higher and farther away from the lens so that shadows are less likely to be a problem.
Remember that a point & shot like your Powershot has a fairly tiny lens and it's physically short. Your T2i's lens is comparitively much larger and depending on which lens you are using, does have the potential to create a shadow if the lens is large enough.
One last thing... if you are using the camera in one of the automatic modes, then the camera will control the shutter speed when using flash. If you are using a manual shooting mode, make sure you are selecting a shutter speed which is no faster than the camera's maximum "flash sync" speed. For your camera, that is 1/200th of a second (so anything 1/200th sec... or slower will be ok.) If you set a faster shutter speed then the shadow can be created by the internal camera shutter (at very high speeds the shutter only exposes a "slit" which sweeps across the imaging sensor to capture the shot... the "whole" sensor is never actually exposed at the same time. This means only the part of the sensor exposed when the flash fired will get the benefit of the flash. When you use 1/200th or slower, the camera is able to have the entire sensor exposed when the flash fires.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

L Lens and EOS Rebel T3i body

I've been asking so many questions on here, haha.
But I'm here with another question. So I've somewhat been researching on the net about using L lens with a t3i and quite a handful of people are saying that they wouldn't work well together? So L lens aren't recommended for EOS Rebel bodies? Can someone explain this to me please.
I just recently bought the T3i and I just want a good lens. Preferably for landscape photos. I also take some sports, low light, and portrait photos.
Suggestions for landscape and all around photography lens would be great (:
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Often for landscape photography people want to use a wide angle lens. Not always, there aren't any rules that say you can't use something else. I'm just sayin' it's typically the first thing that comes to mind
One of the best wide angles you can get for use on a T3i is the Canon EF-S 10-22mm USM. It is not an "L" but that doesn't matter.
I suspect what you have been told about using an L-series lens is due to your camera's crop factor, as several other responses have suggested. L-series will work just fine on your camera, but all L-series lenses are "full frame" designs, by definition. As a result, none of the L's will be particularly wide angle on your camera. So when people hear "landscape", they suggest something other than an L-series.
You have four different stated purposes: landscape, sports, low light and portraiture. The whole point of a DSLR such as your T3i is to be able to interchange lenses, to be able to adapt the camera for use in different situations. So I would suggest not to try to do it all with one lens, but to look at several lenses (some of which are Ls), which ultimately should give you better results. For example....
Wide angle landscape: EF-S 10-22mm.
Sports: 70-200/4, 70-200/4L IS, 70-200/2.8, 70-200/2.8L IS II, 100-400L IS, 300/4L IS.
Low light: 24/2.8 IS, 28/1.8, 35/2 IS, 50/1.4, 50/1.8 II, 85/1.8.
Portraiture (candid): 50/1.4, 85/1.8.
Portraiture (studio): EF-S 15-85 IS, EF 28-135 IS, 24-105L, 24-70/4 IS , 24-70/2.8L II.
Portraiture (environmental): 20/2.8, 24/2.8 IS, 28/1.8, 35/2 IS.
General purpose "walk-around" lens: EF-S 15-85 IS... or, depending upon what other lenses you get, EF-S 17-55/2.8 IS, or EF 28-135 IS, 24-105L IS, 24-70/4L IS, 24-70/2.8L II.
There are lots of different ways to put together a lens kit. For example, maybe you just don't need as wide a view as the 10-22mm for your landscape photography. If so, instead you might choose the EF-S 15-85mm as wide enough and because it can double as a walkaround lens and can even be useful for some portraiture.
A "minimal" kit I often carry around with a crop camera is: 10-22mm, 28-135 IS, 300/4 IS w/1.4X teleconverter, and a Tamron 60/2.0 macro/portrait.
When I'm shooting sports, which I mostly do with crop sensor cameras, I usually carry: 10-22mm and 24-70/2.8, but my most used lenses are 70-200/2.8 IS and 300/4 IS. (In certain situations I also use 70-200/4 IS and 300/2.8 IS.)
For portraiture with a crop sensor camera, my favorite lenses are: 28/1.8, 50/1.4, 85/1.8 and 135/2. Especially the 50mm and 85mm.
Your camera can use all EF-S and EF lenses, including all L-series. But just because a lens will fit and work doesn't mean it's the best choice for your purposes. In some cases buying a full frame capable lens for your camera will be wasteful.... FF lenses can be bigger, heavier and more expensive... yet not really give you any better performance, maybe even give less. For example, a 16-35/2.8L II is a wonderful lens on a FF camera, but makes little sense to buy for use on a crop camera. For less money you can either get a lens that's truly wide (EF-S 10-22mm), or a lens that offers slightly wider range of focal lengths and has IS (EF-S 17-55/2.8 IS).
Depth of field actually is not directly effected by different camera sensor sizes. What changes depth of field are: lens focal length, lens aperture, and distance to subject. If you are looking for shallow depth of field (blurring down a background for a portrait, for example), you need a large aperture and longer focal length... and the closer you are to the subject the more shallow depth of field will be. If, on the other hand, you want a lot of depth of field ( for a landscape shot, for example), you want to use a smaller aperture and a shorter focal length.... and the farther you are from the subject (within reason), the deeper depth of field will be.
Now where crop sensor vs full frame does come into effect is that in order to get the same subject framing with a crop sensor we need to stand farther away with any given focal length, or if shooting from the same distance will use a shorter focal length. In either case, the result is "less" depth of field, but it is an indirect result of the different sensor size.
Have fun shopping and learning your new camera!
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM

EOS rebel SL1 100D, how to point and shoot.

I recently purchased the, EOS rebel SL1 100D.camera lens, EFS 18- 55 MM,+ EFS 55- 250 MM.
I know it is over my head, but hope to learn, meanwhile, Is there a setting for point and shoot?.
I will be 81 next month, like to spend some time taking better pictures.
Any help would be appreciated.
lampman

ebiggs and cicopo are both basically giving you very similar advice. There's a subtle difference between the two modes.
In full auto mode (green A+ box on the mode dial) the camera is fully automatic. It will set the exposure and it will not let you override it. In fact, it wont let you override much of anything. That mode tries to be somewhat "fool proof" in that if you mess with buttons on the camera body -- many of the button presses will be ignored in full auto mode.
Program mode ("P" on the mode dial) is siimilar in that it also works out the exposure exactly the way it would have in fully automatic mode. But the difference is that the "P" mode will actually let you override some of the settings. Given some amount of light... you can either take a short exposrue with the camera allowing a lot of light thorugh the lens (but only very briefly) -OR- you can take a longer exposure duration... but with the camera only allowing a small amount of light through the lens. Ultimately the same total of amout of light is collected and you might think these would result in identical images. But it turns out "fast" images tend to freeze action, but have a shallow "depth of field" (this is the range of distances at which things will appear to be more or less acceptably focused.) When the camera uses a smaller aperture opening (to allow in less light) the depth of field grows dramatically -- so LOTS of stuff is in focus (great for landscape photos)... but since the shutter needs to be open longer, it's not good for freezing action (and you may even need a tripod if the exposure time is long enough.)
That last paragraph is meant to say that the creative result of the image captured by the camera will actually be different. This si THE REASON why photographers want to learn how to leave full "automatic" mode and learn to control those parts of the exposure that alter the creative results.
If I take a photo of a waterfall, I might want to put the camera on a tripod and use a setting which allows me to use a very long shutter duration so the motion of the water is blurred (but everything else is tack-sharp.) This creates those gorgeous milky / dreamy looking waterfalls. If I want to freeze action -- say... birds in flight -- then I'll use a much faster shutter speed so that my bird isn't blurred. This is what I mean by "creative" results. Full auto mode wont ask you to make these choices. It'll just pick a "middle of the road" safe exposure.
The easiest mode on the dial is the fully automatic green "A+" position. But it wont let you change much of anything.
The next step toward taking control is the Program mode ("P" on the mode dial) which will let you override settings (and it will let you override things even to the point of ruining the shot -- but you do have to deliberately override the camera's exposure advice and this is not likely to happen by accident.)
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

Which sequence settings for Canon Rebel T2i ?

Hi everyone!
I need immediate help. A friend of mine did a rough cut of a project (in Windows Movie Maker) shot with a Canon Rebel T2i.
He gave me the file (in .wmv), so that I could do a little color correction and sound editing in Adobe Premiere Pro CS 4.
I am not sure which settings I have to choose when creating a new project.
I guess the settings that I chose were wrong, because when I played the video, there was something like a blue flash covering half of the frame every second.
What should I do?
Here is a picture:

Hi there
You should re-post this in the Premiere Pro forum. This forum is for Adobe Captivate discussion.
Click the link below, then on the page that appears, click the drop-down selector and choose Premiere.
Click here
Cheers... Rick

Zombie Short Film Shot on Eos Rebel T2i

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