G4 Video Power!

Hey, I was wondering if there was any way that I could increase the video card on my iBook to share with the main memory so I could bump that up to maybe 64 or 128 mb. Also, is there an application that will let me extend my desktop onto a second display instead of just mirroring it?
TheMacKid

Hey TheMacKid,
You are most welcome.
I have the same iBook that you list in your profile (it's running Tiger, though) and wouldn't be without Screen Spanning Doctor. I spoke with a friend of mine who has done work on Apple computers, and he confirmed that installing the software shouldn't cause any physical damage; all it does it tell the OS to flip a switch into the "on" position (essentially).
Let me know if you need more help!
~Lyssa

Similar Messages

Using Flip Video Power Adaptor to charge an iPod Touch

Is it possible to use a Flip Video Power Adaptor to charge my iPod Touch without damaging it?
The Flip Adaptor says: Output +5VDC 1A (5W)
Thanks

With this sort of thing you have a choice. You can take your chances with the cheap option, or possibly pay more than is necessary, but have what is pretty much a sure thing.
If we were talking maybe a $100 or less MP3 player, I'd say go with the cheap option because the worst that happens is you have to buy a new MP3 player for around $100. Annoying, but generally doable.
With expensive electronics, I'd suggest the sure thing. If you go cheap, and it fries the logic board on the MBP, then you're looking at like $1200 minimum. Probably around $200+ for the iPod, and around $500 for the iPhone. If Apple's gear ends up frying the various devices, Apple would be pretty much obliged to replace them. You buy some third party stuff, they'll just say the fault must have been with the third party adapters, and that you're SOL unless you cough up the cash for a repair/replacement.
So, at the end of the day, is it worth risking around $2,000 worth of equipment just to save a few bucks on a travel adapter? Only you can answer that.

Online videos power request are system instead ofdisplay

flash videos power request are system instead of display

Sorry, I have no idea what this means; please clarify.
Also: https://forums.adobe.com/thread/1195540

Qosmio x500 and Video/Power problems

In case someone else gets this problem...
Installed new video drivers (v.8.16.11.8973, win7 64 bit). After restart got the following simptoms/problems:
1. Laptop was connected to the mains and Power LED was on,
2. Battery LED was off (battery was not charging),
3. Laptop was running on the battery power (even though it was connected to the mains).
Tried unplugging, restarting etc... nothing worked.
Rolled video drivers back to v.8.16.11.8875 and everything works fine.... so far

the way it happened and the way i dealt with it:
installed new video driver (came up as an update through the board and service center), restarted laptop (battery in and the laptop hooked up to the mains), when OS loaded up I noticed that the laptop was on the battery power (even though it was connected to the mains)..
reconnected the mains...... no joy
turned it off...... still no joy (power led was on but the battery was not charging)...
disconnected from mains and removed the battery, then connected to the mains and put battery back in...... battery started charging....
pressed power button, laptop started up, but when OS loaded up it showed that it was running on the battery power (still connected to the mains)...
turned it off, disconnected from mains and removed the battery...... connected back to the mains
pressed the power button, it lit up momentarily and went off
so,
I put the battery back in and charged it up, When charged, i started laptop up and restored the OS back to the date when it was working.
after restart i reinstalled video drivers (used the drivers that were on the HDD from factory) and turned laptop off. Removed battery, connected back to the mains and put the battery back in..... so far so good..... AC was on and charging.....
started the laptop up..... no dramas...... updated Win7..... restarted.... no problems.
Turned laptop off, removed battery, started it up and OS loaded up....
thats what happened to me and how it worked for me with my laptop.
Message was edited by: Uninvited

OptiPlex 7020 MT Video/Power Upgrades

I recently acquired a Dell OptiPlex 7020 MT through work for a good price and the option to use payroll deduction to spread out the cost. Let me start by saying that I realize this is really meant for the office and not for home/gaming purposes. However, having the i7, 16 GB of RAM, etc. makes it tempting just to do a little bit of gaming at home. However, I've been rather underwhelmed by the AMD R5 240's performance.
I've been looking at what my options are for upgrading, and I'm left with a couple of questions.
- The NVIDIA GeForce GTX 750 Ti seems like a good card to go for. Not too expensive at $100-150 and there's low power consumption at around 55-60 watts (up from the 50 watts that the R5 240 supposedly uses). However, most pages I can find for this card recommend a minimum of a 300 watt power supply, while the 7020 comes with a 290 watt (80 plus bronze) power supply. It seems like it would be pushing it to try to make it work anyways. On the other hand, it doesn't seem like much more power usage than the current video card. There's the argument that I'll never hit 100% power utilization on all of the components in the system (and you'd hope that there would be extra power capacity for an additional hard drive, etc.), but I don't like taking that gamble. There's also the issue of BIOS compatibility, etc. that I've heard others complain about with third-party video cards. Has anyone had success with a GTX 750 Ti or even just the plain GTX 750 with 2 GBs of RAM in an OptiPlex 7020 MT with the stock power supply?
- The next upgrade to look into logically is the power supply. Dell chooses this exact same video card, the GTX 750 Ti, for the higher end of their XPS line of desktops, though they are nice enough to include a 460 watt power supply for that configuration. I know previous models of the OptiPlex and Precision machines that I've worked with have been using standard ATX connections for a while now. Suffice it to say that I am VERY disappointed that Dell has gone to using a proprietary 8-pin connector from the power supply on the 7020, reminding me of older models that used to try the same thing. I checked and even our 7010's have the regular ATX power connections. So disappointed! This will likely be the last Dell I buy for awhile if they keep that kind of stuff up. Nevertheless, I'm pretty much stuck with this purchase until I pay it off, so I'd like to figure some kind of solution out. Are there any options for upgrading the power supply in the OptiPlex 7020 MT, even if it means changing pins in the connectors or getting a higher capacity power supply from a different Dell model that uses the same connection with the motherboard?
Again, I realize this is meant to be an office machine and not a home/gaming machine. I'm trying to make it something it isn't really intended to do. I also realize this is a fairly new model, hence the lack of good information out there for what people have and haven't tried with it yet. Any helpful information would be greatly appreciated! I also hope this helps prevent anyone else from making the mistake I did by thinking they could buy this machine and easily upgrade the video card/power supply afterwards. Finally, please let me know if additional information is needed.
Travis

Newer Dells even with 305W power supplies have 20 to 25W on the +5VSB.
This means you must use an EPS 12V 2.92 certified supply because ATX even version 2.4 only requires 10W on the +5VSB
Minimum Recommended Upgrade for A Dell Tower is CORSAIR CS750M.
550W is too small. Generic 550W power supplys are NOT AS GOOD as the Dell 305W power supply.
The EPS12V spec 2.92 guarantees 170w combined on the 5V/3.3V rails and 20W on the 5VSB as well as 45 amps on a Single 12V rail.
Note on the Label for the Dell that they provide 20W on the 5VSB.
If you add up all the currents its more than 305W but Dell does not overstate the total output of the supply.
5V @ 22A = 110W
5VSB @ 4A = 20W
3.3V @ 17A = 56.1 W
12V @ 36A = 432 W
-12 @ 1A = 12W
630.1 W Total on 305W power supply.
80 percent of 750 = 600W
80 percent of 550 = 440W
This means that 550W supplies for some dell models will not even turn on the machine due to lack of power in specific areas.
And no supply is 100 percent efficient.
This is why I recommend an EPS12v Corsair CS750M
DELL's 525W power supply Guarantees 150W on the 3.3v and 5v Rails. But also again Rates the 5VSB at 20W.
You Need an EPS12V 2.92 certified Power Supply
Dell supply's have 20 to 25W on +5VSB and most cheapo units have 10W or less. Dell Supply's guaranteed 130 to 180W on 3.3v/5v rail and Others do not.
Minimum recommended unit is CORSAIR CS750M.
http://www.microcenter.com/product/425477/CS_Series_CS750M_750_Watt_ATX_Modular_Power_Supply
http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Series-Modular-Efficient-CS750M/dp/B00GH9NA0A
http://www.corsair.com/en-us/cs-series-modular-cs750m-750-watt-80-plus-gold-certified-psu
Corsair CS Series 750 Watt ATX Modular and Efficient Power Supply CS750M is a suitable brand I find on Amazon and in Microcenter.
Corsair CS750M EPS12V 2.92
DC Output Rating
DC Output
+3.3V
+5V
+12V
-12V
+5Vsb
Max Load
25A
25A
62A
0.8A
3.0A
Maximum
130W
744W
9.6W
15W
Total Power: 750W

Mac Pro 2008 video power connectors?

Hello, I'd like to install two 3870's into my 2008 Mac Pro. Does anyone know if the motherboard has two power outlets for the cards?

Have you checked your Mac Pro booklet, the pdf DIY, or specs?
http://www.apple.com/support/macpro/
http://support.apple.com/kb/SP11
And yes, the specs do fall short in clarity and other items

On battery = dimmed video, Power Adapter = OK

Has anyone a solution for this strange problem?
When starting up the mac with AC Adaptor connected, no problem.
When starting only with battery, there is dimmed video.
Does anyone knows which part need to be replaced?
(Powerbook G4 667 MHz - Aluminium)
thanks,
Bart

Hi all,
This is strange a strange phenomenon, but not limited to just you. I have a PB 1 GHz (Ti) running 10.4.2 and the exact same thing happens to me. A few other details -- after the screen goes dark, if you plug into AC, close the lid and then re-open it, the screen lightens up again.
I've tried zapping the PRAM, resetting the PMU and booting into Open Firmware, and the problem recurs each time. I had no problems at all with the display before this suddenly started happening.
One thing that I wonder -- how many of the people on this thread are suing a non-Apple replacement battery? I recently bought a new battery, and that's the only thing that I can think of that I've changed in the recent past. Could it be a culprit? Could it have caused some problems with the inverter board or cable?
I'll (hopefully) be dropping by the Apple Store in SoHo later this week, and I'll post any progress....

IMac G5, "World Wide Warranty", video issue

I think I have bought a very beautiful, expensive, piece of junk. I live in Mexico, which also compounds the problem. In May of last year a friend of mine brought me my iMac G5 refurbished when she went to Dallas. It worked beautifully for about 2 months. Then it developed the known issue of the video power. The local Mac dealers, a store called MicroHouse here in Toluca, were WONDERFUL. It's NOT our problem. I said look at the paper that comes with the machine "World Wide Warranty" for one year. "Doesn't matter" said they. Negative intransigence is wonderful. Finally another friend went to San Antonio. The Mac store there fixed it---or thought they did. It worked great for a week, then developed another problem. also video. I now have yellow stripes, sometimes vertical sometimes horizontal, and splotches. all over the screen. The problem is intermittent. Sometimes it's worse than others. The actual processor seems to be working fine, but having variable yellow stripes and blotches is NOT what I paid over 1000 US for. Also, when the there is a black background, the color is usually a strange blue with glittering yellowish flashes. Sometimes rebooting helps, and sometimes it's worse after. Of course I went back to my trusty friends at MicroHouse, and of course they said the same thing as before. The idiot who is the owner even said that the refurbished machines only have a three month warranty and tried to tell me what English means, he's from here but I think he does speak some English. I told him to look at the Apple page. My question is "Is the World Wide Warranty just a piece of useless paper?" It's too coarse to use in the bathroom and not absorbent enough to use in the kitchen. In short, I want my money back.

Just a quick question. Is Mac warranty valid for any country in the world?
Yes.
(43920)

Cant open Premier Pro-Asking for video driver update?

I have recently installed Adobe premier Pro and it comes up with the following message "Adobe Premier Pro could not find any capable play video modules.Please update your video display modules and start again"
I run Windows 7 and have a top of the range laptop which should easily be able to cope with the video output
Would really appreciate some help on this
Thank you
Andy

>top of the range laptop
Need exact brand and model... including the screen size in pixel X pixel dimensions
Also need exact brand and model of graphics adapter (ATI or nVidia or ???) and exact device driver number
To find the nVidia driver version
Right click in any open area of the Windows desktop
Select NVIDIA Control Panel from the popup window
Select SYSTEM INFORMATION at the lower left corner
Driver version should be the 1st line in Details
If your laptop has dual video (power saver and regular) read...
Dual video laptop problems
-http://helpx.adobe.com/premiere-pro/kb/error---preludevideo-play-modules.html
-http://forums.adobe.com/thread/1001579
-Use BIOS http://forums.adobe.com/thread/1019004?tstart=0
-link to why http://forums.adobe.com/message/4685328
-http://www.anandtech.com/show/4839/mobile-gpu-faceoff-amd-dynamic-switchable-graphics-vs-n vidia-optimus-technology/2
-HP Fingerprint/Password conflict http://forums.adobe.com/thread/911575
And, for the future, please remember that nobody here can look through the Internet to see what you have
More information needed for someone to help... please click these links and provide the requested information
-http://forums.adobe.com/message/4200840
-http://forums.adobe.com/thread/416679
-http://forums.adobe.com/thread/419406

Touchscreen and Photos Not Working on Video Out

Alright, I'm about at my wits end. I have an iphone 3GS and the quite expensive Apple composite cables. The only thing I have been able to do is have a video/movie on my iphone play on the big screen T.V.
Here what I can't seem to do:
(1) when I try to display a game on the T.V. the game displays but the iphone's touchscreen does not respond to commands.
(2) when I try to open photos I can't see them on the big screen and, as with the games, the iphone screen does not respond to touches.
(3) when I click on You Tube I can see it on the T.V., but again, can't see it on the iphone's screen which is complete unresponsive.
I haven't a clue what I'm doing wrong because many people with non-jail broke iphones seem to be able to accomplish all of the above.
Any ideas?

I installed that file just now, and I see Wacom HID Pen and Wacom Virtual Hid Driver, but no gesture touch. hmm. is there a diagram for the inside of top half of the computer? the service manual has everything else besides that.
the only cable i could possibly imagine that is for the digitizer i've tried disconnecting and reconnecting multiple times, and absolutely nothing happens in device manager. i'll mess with it a bit more, but it seems like it just completely died or something.
I just reinstalled windows, nothing shows up initially for any wacom devices (even unknown). there's nothing under Human Interface Devices and only PS/2 Compatible Mouse under Mice and other pointing devices. when i install your wacom drivers, this shows up:
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y259/mariol90/tm2/dm.png
but nothing works. one of the unknown devices is the fingerprint reader.
i've looked inside enough to find out that there are two cables going to the motherboard that power/control everything in the upper half, the larger one is for the display (video/power and probably backlight), webcam, and speakers. the smaller one is for the boards on the right of the LCD, which have the digitizer connector, rotate button, and fingerprint reader. this means hp's service manual is incorrect yet again (what a surprise). they said the larger cable is for the screen and the smaller one is the webcam. the speakers/fingerprint reader/digitizer must connect using magic then.

Shared video memory is not wrking!

Hello, I just purchased the HP Pavillion dv7-1135nr, with the "ATI radeon HD 3500" graphics card with shared video memory and 2.0 ghz amd turion x2. Since the shared video memory can go up to 2 gb, I figured it would play half life 2 with ease. But I was wrong, it is lagging when I play the game! can you please tell me a way to increase the video memory manually? Thanks a lot for your help.

Well I have posted this many times over the years but the basic mistake is to equate video storage with video power. All the video memory in the world does not help if the video engine is not powerful enough to move the pixels.
Check This
The ATI Radeon HD 3200 (not 3500) that you have is a low power video chip. You are not the first to make this maistake and typically the sales people at Best Buy, etc. and even the advertising does not make it really clear that you are getting a business and entertainment video system, not for gaming.

Slot-loading DV Display/HardDrive seize up

I am posting a conversation I have been having with a discussion board user, as I think it will be useful for others
On Fri, Feb 18, 2011 at 4:46 PM, <**@**.com> wrote:
Hi Richard:
I've just been reading an exchange you had with someone named Graham in the UK about his iMac going black and becoming unresponsive. After a series of exchanges, you finished up (I think) with:
That can be a possibility. If it was the CPU temp that's causing this the entire logic board would have to have come loose or perhaps the conductive paste has dried out/failed, unlikely.
So upshot. In my experience the part that fails in these G3 iMacs is the PAV (The board you see when you look down from the top it's under the CRT and drives the monitor section. The logic board derives power from the PAV via down converter).
The shutting down is a classic symptom and the most irritating.
Others: No start - power light blinks or turns amber, video gets wonky - color shifts or size variations, sparks arcing sound, native screen is dark but external monitor works fine (not on option on your 350, no external spigot). This is why I've got 7 or so iMac G3s in my basement. Mostly 350s since I was given around 20 of them and I repaired and donated most into the inner city. The ones left have PAV problems.
Wacky upgrade options:
I'm especially interested because here you mentioned the other main symptom I've noticed in my own version of the same problem: the "arcing sound" which I've been hearing almost from the start of my issues. Everything else almost mirrors his, except the time for the symptoms to kick in has reduced to less than 10 minutes.
I thought it might be the drive, so I've tried 2 different hd's, and it happens with both, and I tried running the iMac (400jhz slot loading) just off of CD, and it shut down then too!
Obviously, I've been inside the machine to replace the drives, with my teenage daughter's help (my eyes aren't so hot). I'm going to check for this OS X temperature software and see what it tells me. I did run a RAM checker, and it said it was all fine, so at least I know it's not that. I tried to get a version of Apple Hardware Checker for it (or whatever it's called) but it said the iMac DV would not run the software.
Do you still have those . . . PVA's? This machine is a perfect print server and backup hd and work stereo, and we have enjoyed tinkering with her in the past. If it wasn't TOO complex, I'd like to give it a try. I showed my daughter how to solder a battery cable onto a tester circuit board, so if that's the kind of thing we'd need to do, I'm game.
Let me know, and I'm looking for a temperature checker right now. Oh yea, and Tricia Helfer DOES look pretty hot.
Carey
On 18-Feb-11, at 8:37 PM, spudnuty wrote:
Hi Cary,
the other main symptom I've noticed in my own version of the same problem: the "arcing sound" which I've been hearing almost from the start of my issues.
That arcing sound is almost always the flyback transformer. That is on the PAV board which is basically the entire upper half of the computer. Here's a site in England where you can download the Service Manual for your machine.
http://www.macmanuals.co.uk/
So since you have a 400 MHz machine it's one of the more desirable machines since it has firewire. 400 to 700 had them. As I mentioned in my post I would pull the logic board and transfer it to a working 350. If you look in the manual swapping the board is simple. Then again around Chicago these G3 iMacs are sold for $25 or less. Don't know the situation where you are.
I used to repair these but they've become so cheap that the board swap is now my chosen path.
Richard
On Sat, Feb 19, 2011 at 12:22 PM, <**@**.com> wrote:
Richard:
I guess this shhould've been on the discussion board so others could see it, but I'll just ask one more thing before looking into the manual:
Remember, I've swapped a harddrive and memory, but board changing is something I've never tried before:
So, are you saying that the PAv that might be creating these issues, being such a large part of the computer, should just be abandoned, and the logic board swapped into a 350 because of it's simplicity? Does the logic board contain the 400 mhz processor and firewire hookup, or would those be left behind on the 400 iMac's PAV board?
I'm looking at the manual, and you're right, pulling the logic board does look pretty simple, but I haven't found the answer to the above question yet, so I'll send it to you.
I emailed this to you because the original post a over a year old, and I wasn't sure you'd still be watching the discussion boards. Next time, I'll just 'trust to the boards', though I've only received 2/5 answers through it over the years.
Thanks again.
Carey
On 19-Feb-11, at 6:17 PM, spudnuty wrote:
Carey,
So look at the pic I enclose. It's from the service manual.
So you've had the machine apart to this point, from here it's just the removal of the 10 screws to remove the logic board and down converter. They plug into the upper part via a couple of connectors. There could be a few plastic rivets that tie the board to the divider panel.
Does the logic board contain the 400 mhz processor and firewire hookup, or would those be left behind on the 400 iMac's PAV board?
That's all on the logic board.
Basically the iMac is a CRT display and speakers with a logic board underneath with the optical drive and the hard drive.
The board on top is called the PAV board ( power analog video) i. e. video power supply for a computer monitor. Power comes from that board and comes down to the "down converter" which changes it to logic board power, basically 12V and 5.5V DC. (These boards have been run "headless" but now not worth the trouble)
So your path from here will be determined by what kind of donor iMac you find. It must be a slot loader and the chances are it will be as fast or faster as your current machine.
Richard
On Mon, Feb 21, 2011 at 11:17 PM, <**@**.com> wrote:
Hi Richard:
Well, despite your own circumstances with blueberries and strawberries falling from the computer sky, I've gone on 4 different user forums and several different 'used things for sale' websites, and so far the closest I can come to getting a used imac is having one shipped from the next province (about 500 miles) for about 50-60 bucks, or possibly one in the city which the poster said they wanted 200 bucks for. I've had no reply to my email to them, yet.
Would you be willing to sell me one of those PAV boards, if they're still kicking around? I would think the shipping would be much less than the whole darned computer.
If you don't still have them in piles around you, I may just have to turf the iMac entirely for budgetary reasons.
I guess with the much smaller population, the proliferation of iMacs is similarly reduced. There's only about 3 million people in Alberta, which is where I am.
Let me know.
Greatly appreciate the information connections you've made for me.
Cheers
Carey
On 22-Feb-11, at 1:17 AM, spudnuty wrote:
Hey Carey,
Well I was forced to leave all of my iMac G3 parts with a recycler in Chicago when I moved.
I actually found one here in Pocatello (town of 60K) for $25 so maybe you can find the same thing. I don't have a PAV board and they are very hard to swap out, don't think I ever did it.
So, thinking a bit more about your situation, since you're using it as a server, when it fails does it absolutely freeze up? On the 400 you can attach a VGA monitor to the spigot under the perferated oval grill under the bottom rear. The monitors can fail in these and still produce power to run the logic board. Around here you can get a cheap LCD 15" monitor for around $25. A CRT type you can probably get for free. So if you're lucky it can still work that way.
There were people who ran a logic board headless, but most of these are out of date:
Here's a few:
http://www.applefritter.com/node/2241
http://www.cryogenius.com/hardware/imac/
a translation of the classic French mod:
http://www.hardmac.com/articles/39/page1
Soo hopefully yours will fail and just the CRT will be involved.
Here's hoping...
Richard
<Edited by Host>

Perhaps one of your RAM modules has gone belly up. To test this, remove both RAM modules and start up. If the RAM is the cause of the problem, the computer will respond with a complaining chime, and of course go no further. But that will indicate the RAM is cause, and you can go to the next step; try to start up with just one of the RAM modules installed - either one. If that gets you nowhere, try the other one.
If the problem is not bad RAM, it is beyond my expertise to help. Sorry.

My Mac Book Pro has faint horizontal yellow lines moving vertically. on the monitor.

My early 2011 MBP 15" has developed a phenomenon of faint, horizontal yellow lines, in clusters, flickering and seeming to move vertically. It is intermittent and cycles on and off with about 10-15 sec. on and 10-15 sec. off. It is faint enough that it is very hard to see except on a white screen, or a large white area. I first noticed it about a month or 6 weeks ago and it seems to be getting a little bit more noticeable. It is still faint enought, however, that I really don't notice it when I'm working. But it's not hard to observe if I stop and look at a white area for a little bit. I am not noticing any other abnormal behavior.
I have been very busy and kind of ignoring this problem. But a couple of days ago, I realized that I have only 15 days left on my 3 year Apple Care on this machine. At the present level, it SEEMS harmless enough, but I realize it could be a failing video card or video power supply, I suppose (it kind of has a flicker rate suggestive of 120 Hz AC).
I'm probably going to make a Genius Bar appt. in the next couple of days, but I just thought I would see what comments or suggestions this collectively very wise community might have. I am vaguely aware of comments about "hardware diagnostics" built into the Mac, but, if true, I don't know the details. Comments solicited!

So I went to the Genius Bar with the history as outlined above. We had to watch my display for almost 10 minutes (while he checked various system stuff) before it would perform. But then it cut loose with a very convincing display of the faint, fuzzy groups of yellow lines moving slowly up the screen.
Tech pointed out that we were booted to an OS running on the store's server, NOT mine, so this ruled out software problems in one stroke. He said he'd never seen anything quite like it but felt it was EITHER: video "card" section of the main logic board (all on one in a MBP) OR a failing display. He said one or both would be replaced.
Two days later, picked up my MBP: problem solved! Tech said they connected my laptop to an external display (which I had not tried because I didn't have one available.....though maybe a tv could have subsituted, now that I think of it!) and NO PROBLEM driving the external lcd display. So they replaced my 15" lcd display and problem is gone. "Bill" was about $600, parts and labor, but Apple Care picked it up (with 6 days left to run on the coverage!).
So that's the follow-on for this problem, fyi.

Brand new Thinkstation D10 server fails to boot, no beeps or screen display

This server had been working fine for several weeks and today I needed to reboot it. It has been rebooted several times before so so I wasn't trying something new. I hit the Vista Start button and it immediately shut down. I couldn't recall if Vista prompts you to Stand-by/restart/shutdown but I think it does - this time it didn't. :/ Afterwards, it would not boot.
I tried:
Unplugging and replugging it in: it then attempted to boot but shut itself down again after about 30s.
a Power Supply Reset
Reseating the memory cards
Removing one of the 4GB memory cards
Trying the other memory card
Swapping the two memory cards
Inserting a bootable disk (it never gets to the point of reading anything although the drive spins up)
Checking that everything in the system board was plugged in
Making sure none of the wires were hitting anything else (shorting out)
When replacing that annoying cover from over the memory cards, made sure again I was not pinching any wires
The server does not beep and the (directly connected) monitor never comes alive to display anything when I attempt to reboot.
Per the docs, I observed the power supply Diagnostic LEDs and front panel Power LED while attempting to boot and only the green Diagnostic LED on the power supply is ever activated. The table indicated this means replace the system board.
Aack!
Before I head for the support # and an eventual shipment back to Lenovo, would it be worth my while to try and replace the CMOS battery? Or would a failure of that battery still have resulted in some indication of the problem (beeping and/or screen display)? Can anyone think of something else to check?
Just thought I'd ask around before assuming that I'm stuck with the system board diagnosis).
Thanks

The list of things that will make a computer power down on it's own before it can ever get into the OS or initiate a video feed is a short list.
A CPU thermal trip usually occurs within 30 seconds. This can be cause by a loose or improperly seated heat sink or a failure in the thermal grease coverage. If your D10 arrived with one CPU and you recently installed a second CPU, try taking the second CPU out. Should this work, verify the second CPU is the exact match to the first CPU and that the thermal grease is properly applied to the heat sink and the heat sink is securely mounted.
Ambient temperature thermal trip usually takes longer, but can be significantly shorten if the air baffle for the memory is not installed. Computers with high Front Side Bus frequencies result in memory DIMMS that get very hot.
DC power trip. This can happen if too much power is being drawn through any of the PCI ports or through the power supply itself.
When you are using a highend video card, check to see if the video card has it's own power connector(a small six lead box). If it does, there is a power connector, from the power supply, to plug into it. Without that power plugged in, the video card may appear to hum, and the it will draw too much power through the PCI slot.
Should you have added any additional PCI adapters, try removing these for a test. If that works, add one card back in at a time to isolate the offending PCI card.
Disconnect any USB or Firewire devices you may have attached, including the mouse and keyboard. If it comes back up and you have video, power down and reconnect the keyboard and mouse only and try again.
If you have the memory card reader option and kids, check to make certain no one has inserted something into the memory card readers. My kid inserted a quarter into one of the slots on my reader. My workstation powered down pretty fast. Consider moving the workstation to higher ground.
Last by not least, disconnect any additional optical drives you may have added. Some SATA devices have both the standard PC power connector and the SATA power connector. Do not connect both of these power sources to the same drive. The drive will be damaged and your computer will not stay powered on for very long.
Should this all fail to resolve the issue, contact Lenovo support. To make your support experience faster and more pleasurable, send them this list of things you tried. If this list of possible fixes fails, it's probably a power supply or system board issue, and I would start with the power supply.
If an electronic device has a defect it will fail within the first 90 days. Once you get it past the first 90 days, it is generally good for years.
I hope this helps!!!
Digitaloz

Windows 7 Clean Install Crashing. Diagnosed Driver Issue.

Late 2011 iMac 21"
OS X 10.7.5
Fresh OEM Install of Genuien WIndows 7 Professional (Up to date)
Windows crashes intermitently while using the machine. *Crash = loss of video / power
The machine will run for days without issue if no user input is being provided and sitting at the Windows Log In screen.
Event logs indicate that this error occurs immediatly (less than 1 second) prior to the crash log entry:
The driver \Driver\WUDFRd failed to load for the device ACPI\ACPI0008\4&1fe8558&0
Googling the driver and error results provides a VERY wide scope of issues pleguing the Microsoft community.
At first I thought maybe it was the 3rd party IR mouse, so I tested the machine with a generic Windows wired USB mouse which yeilded the same result: System crash after some time using the machine. Does anyone know how I can find out what device the system is attempting to load the driver for and our what the driver is used for.
One possibly impirtant note about all this. They system will not power back on after the crash until I reset the SMC. Then the machine will powerup and boot ok. I asume this is just a consequence of the machine shutting down improperly, just not used to seeing that as it infrequently happens on the OS X side.
I need to get this issue resolved as I know it can cause damage to the hard drive with the frequent unexpected shutdowns.
Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Update: The machine also powers down unexpectidly when the display powers off due to energy saver preferences. However, it will also power off prior to that timeframe of 15 minutes as well. Attempted in a test user environment and I get the same result. I don't believe this is a hardware issue as the machine can be used for hours while booted into OS X without issue. Maybe it's just time to buldoze WIndows and start fresh again? I have 3 other machines with the exact same configuration setup at the same time and no issues.

G4 Video Power!

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for