Interlaced HDV 50i to HD 25p for 2k grade then cinema.

I have shot a feature film on a Sony Z1 and have just completed editing. Everything was imported and edited as HDV but now we have completed the edit I would like to use compressor to convert my 50i HDV into 25p HD uncompressed or Prores.
There is a possibility of a film out, but at the very least it will be projected in cinemas on HD so I could really do with some help to find the best workflow, settings in frame controls etc. We are going to grade at 2k.
I have opened up frame controls and it has the usual good, better, best settings and I would love to know whether best is worth considering when coming from HDV as I'm sure it will massively extend the conversion time. But as it's going on the big screen time is not to much of a concern if the difference would be noticeable. Also if anyone could lay out which options need changing and which need leaving alone as there seems to be a lot of choices??? (resize, reverse telecine, de-interlace...)
Is this a reverse telecine, de-interlace, frame rate conversion? Are there multiple stages or is it as simple as it appears in the frame controls section and I just need to know the settings to choose?
I have searched but haven't found a situation that matches my own and would really appreciate some guidance as I would love get it right first time around.

Anyone out there who can help?

Similar Messages

Best Uncompressed for HDV 50i?

Hi there,
I did a video in FCS2, its an HDV 50i project and I have to deliver in the best quality possible for computer, its to be reedit, what settings should I use??
Cheers
Javier

Depending on the speed of your computer 5 hrs sounds like something it might say. H.264 is highly compressed and to top it off you're adding frame controls which take even longer because you're analyzing every frame. Use the uncompressed 8-bit or the ProRes codec. Those should be fine. Actually just try the ProRes and use frame controls. If you do this it will take a long time, not as long as H.264 but frame controls settings add a lot of time. Is this video going to be outputted to a DVD in the end? If so, you need to try to make one now and see if you even notice the jagged edges on an SDTV. You're seeing this because interlaced video on a progressive monitor don't mix very well.
Try the ProRes and if you really need to change the frame controls. Also try it without enhancing them and just changing it to progressive.

Check settings combinations to achieve good Optical Flow HDV 50i -ProRes422

Hi Guys
RE: Motion 3, HDV 50i, standard ProRes 422, optical flow
I'm trying to decide which combination of settings I should choose in order to ensure the highest possible standard of optical flow-treated video for a video clip which just features live people - no graphics.
So far my results haven't been as 'smooth' as I would have liked. Below I have detailed my steps taken - if you could recommend which combination of 'lighting', 'field rendering', 'motion blur' or 'frame blending' I should choose I'd appreciate it.
1. I captured my Canon XHA1 HDV 50i video via HDV - standard Prores 422
2. I edited in FCP6 with standard Prores 422
3. I sent a video clip to Motion 3, new project and chose Broadcast HD 1920 x 1080 25 fps field order Top (Upper First)
4. I treated the video clip with optical flow to slow it down.
5. Export as standard Apple ProRes 422 movie.
Prior to exporting which of 'lighting', 'field rendering', 'motion blur' or 'frame blending' would anyone recommend please?
For reference, in this forum David Bogie kindly stated the difference between the choices. I have included his post below. However I just want to be sure I'm making the correct choices, as I'm a bit confused about the '50i' (interlaced) aspect of my video footage.
Here is David's post:
"lighting
field rendering
motion blur
frame blending"
These are options you need to use when you know why you want to use them.
If you have lights on in your scene, you want to render them. If you have no lights (and no camera) you do not need to activate lights. why does the switch exist at all? I render without lights for preview purposes.
Fields are necessary for interlaced formats. You must know if your production format is progressive or interlaced.
Motion blur enhances the illusion of movement by simulating image smear caused by an open shutter. You get the illusion at the expense of rendering time.
Frame blending is only necessary if you have video clips in your scene and even then you don't need it unless you've changed the speed of the clip. Sort of. "
Zak Peric also kindly posted, although I think his post relates more to graphics as opposed to interlaced video footage. Nonethless, here is his post:
"Just use animation codec + alpha if you have alpha channel if not use animation codec millions of colours. This is the best codec for best quality. Also 4444 is a very good codec to use as it supports alpha channel but gives you smaller file sizes. Use always BEST from the render window, if you want additional motion blur then switch it on in render view. Be advised it takes much longer to render with motion blur on."
Any tips would be really appreciated.
Warm regards
Peter

Hi Mark
Thanks for your kind prompt feedback.
"You say you sent a clip to Motion, but then you say you chose project settings - I don't understand this. If you really "sent' a clip to Motion using Final Cut Pro's "Send to Motion" command, you don't need to set project settings - Motion automatically creates a project with settings that match the FCP sequence. "
Okay I understand - sorry for any confusion caused - I had already used "Send to Motion" and applied Optical Flow to a clip which I then exported from Motion 3 as a Quicktime file. I was planning to repeat this process afresh, but am interested in which settings you could recommend from 'field rendering', 'motion blur' etc that might be applicable to my Optical Flow-analysed footage prior to exporting it as a Quicktime file.
As regards exporting my Motion work as a separate Quicktime file, I prefer to do this so as to avoid the waiting for it to render in FCP.
The already-optical-flow-analysed footage is actually pretty good (the original clips from FCP6 have already been stripped down to short durations to suit Optical Flow), but want to to double-check which of the 'field rendering', 'motion blur' etc combinations I should ideally choose to obtain best results, just in case I'm neglecting something that could otherwise make the quality even better?
Once I finish this video project I'm on I'll definitely be going for a clean install of SL and FCS3.
So, based on these choices...
lighting
field rendering
motion blur
frame blending
...I'm thinking that for my optical flow-treated video I won't need lighting, as it's mostly applicable to graphics.
I don't have any graphics in these optical-flow video clips. It's just moving video footage of people.
Am not sure about whether to choose Field Rendering (interlaced PAL 50i HDV - ProRes422 video).
Am not sure whether to choose Motion Blur.
Am not sure whether to choose Frame Blending.
Any tips would be really appreciated, and thanks again for your valuable feedback.
Peter

50i footage best workflow for progressive output (web/youtube) / deinterlace

Hello
The reason I have to work with interlaced footage is that the clips are edited for a TV show as well.
I (usualy) get 1080i @ 50fps clips with fast-paced movement of camera & inside the shot (subject) - car racing.
Editing in Adobe Premiere Pro 5.5
I am struggling with some stutter & sharpness loss & thin interlaced lines (even after exporting as progressive).
The current workflow is:
          - importing inside an AVCHD - 1920x1080 @ 50i sequence
          - edit
          - export as h264 - 1920x1080 @ 25P /Constrant Bit Rate @ 10MB
Results not that great : while the smoothness of motion is preserved there is a visible drop in details quality and still visible thin horizontal lines from the interlaced footage.
Also tried:
          - importing inside an AVCHD - 1920x1080 @ 25P sequence
          - edit
          - select 'Always deinterlace' option inside Field Options box (takes extra some time because i have to do this for each individual clip)
          - export as h264 - 1920x1080 @ 25P /Constrant Bit Rate @ 10MB
Results not that great : stutter motion, more visible drop in details quality and no horizontal lines visible.
My questions are:
     1)What is the best sequence settings for editing 50i settings and exporting for WEB/progressive?
     2)What is the best deinterlace option? ('interpret footage>no field' does not help)
     3)What is the best output/export settings?
Thank you!

You are not using the Youtube preset
Your preset shows that whilst it is h264 some settings have been changed over the default hence CUSTOM showing in the image, it is that you are just outputting a file specifically for your PC/MAC
Other observations
Why are you saving to your C drive? Better to have multiple drives for editing, there are plenty of posts on drive management and setup
Do you have the default Premiere settings for scratch discs etc? These will use your C drive which will soon become filled, or at least overwhelmed with raed and wrtite problems
Why are you saving the file at 10mbps? Especially for motion my PAL HD MP4 progressive settings are 32 ave 40 max mbps

Combining 1080i and 1080p HDV footage on single timeline, for SD output?

Hi All
Help! I'm a cameraperson/director who was has just shot a largeish doccie project on a Sony HVR-V1E. My technical background is in stills, so I hope you'll forgive some ignorance here.
BACKGROUND: The vast majority of the footage was shot HDV using the 25fps prog scan mode on the camera. I really don't like interlace jaggies and I was advised that this was the obvious way of getting away from them, and made for very useable footage when output as standard def interlaced PAL. However, some footage for the project was also shot on a small Sony HDR-HC9 (PAL) camera. The HC9 has no progressive scan mode, i.e. this footage is 1080i50.
The primary broadcaster for this doccie requires delivery on Beta SP, standard def PAL. Because of the 16:9 aspect ratio of the HDV format, the film will be delivered letterboxed, black above and below.
THE MAIN QUESTION: We'll be editing in FCP 6.0 . My editor is more of an Avid person, and is concerned that without proper setup we'l end up with issues later on when we downsize to SD, especially because we'll be combining prog-scanned footage with interlace-scanned footage. We need to know whether to set the sequence presets as HDV 1080i50 or HDV 1080p25.
We're planning to edit as an HDV project and downscale to SD using Compressor. I know this downscaling is likely to take a long time, however we've been advised that editing in HDV is less intensive than going the ProRes route, and the quality of the Compressor downscale is better than that of the other 'within FCP' options.
I've been advised to set the sequence preset to i50, but I'm not sure if Compressor has a harder time resizing interlaced footage than progressive footage. Common sense tell me it'll be easier to resize a progressive frame and then split it into two interlaced fields without artifacts, than resizing and regenerating interlaced fields from 1080 down to PAL dimensions. However, if the sequence preset is p25, will FCP deal with the bits of i50 footage in the project OK?
Also, I've been told but cannot confirm that the Sony HVR-V1E camera scans progressively in 25fps prog scan mode, but encodes each progressively-scanned image as two interlaced fields on the tape, i.e. as 1080i50 images. Is this true? If so, it would surely mean that the sequence preset should be 1080i50 with progressive-scanned imagery emanating from this model of camera.
I hope this makes sense!
Regards
Adam Welz, Cape Town

Hi,
FCP is open format timeline based, so it will transcode the footage according to the first clip on the timeline. so it will not be a problem for two different formats. i've used DVCAM, HDV formats together it has done for me nicely.
but check the result before proceding further ahed in edit in both preset format.
and using Compressor is not a good idea for broadcast I believe, it is ok if there is no other option is with you. It is better to do it with the hardware rather than software.
I use realtime Blackmagic hardware for down converting HD to SD with letterbox directly to tape.

Converting North American HDV1080 60i into European HDV 50i

Hello folks,
I have HDV footage (1080 60i). I need to make a DVD for friend in Europe, so I am looking for the best way how to end up with HDV 1080 50i DVD. Does anyone have any experience with this? Should I just edit in 60i and then use Compressor to convert it to 50i, or edit in 60i and just export it as HDV 50i, or is there any other trick of how to do this?
Thank you so much.

If it is a PAL stream you should convert it to NTSC before bring it into DVD SP. I usually will export as self contained using ProRes, use Compressor to convert the same Codec in PAL/NTSC (which ever way it is going) then encode that to m2v.
but thing is I have no way of checking if it will play in a NTSC DVD player here in the UK.
Usually many players outside the US will play NTSC discs, you may want to check around to see if someone has a player.

Ingesting HDV from a Sony deck for archiving

I bought a Sony HVR-M15AU for the purpose of ingesting all my HDV tapes onto hard drives for later editing. I have never used FCP but intend to train on it soon. At this point all I want to do is get everything on hard drives. The deck is connected via FireWire 400. Not sure what to do next. I want to preserve the original quality of what's on tape. Ideally every scene could be a different file.

I understand compression, sorry if the zip analogy confused you. Zip is lossless, that's the only real difference. Other than that, they're simply different compression algorithms. I brought it up in the context of wondering if the MOV format is simply a wrapper, and you confirmed that it is.
When playing an HDV tape in a camcorder, the output via the HDMI port is uncompressed. This gives you an identical picture with a higher data rate and bit footprint for the purposes of display compatibility. I was trying to verify whether FCP also decompresses the HDV datastream before storing it. You indicate FCP does this "natively" which I assume means it uses the HDV stream without decompressing and recompressing it.
So when I capture HDV and I wind up with an MOV file that is roughly 200MB in size for every minute of video, you're saying this is exactly how it was stored on tape and has not been uncompressed. A 60-minute HDV tape therefore has an estimated capacity of around 12GB. A 2TB drive would therefore hold about 166 of those HDV tapes.
The HDV MOV files can then be stored as clips to be used in future FCP projects, and can be imported into FCP natively and edited natively without further decompression/compression and final output can result in HDV MOV files which are identical in quality to their originals, assuming no titles or effects have been added. True?

HT201328 I have been given permission for unlocking my iphone 3 GS from Orange. I want to set up the phone for my wife to use with a new number and carrier. Do I unlock under my itunes account first or set one up for her and then unlock the phone.

I have been given permission for unlocking my iphone 3 GS from Orange. I want to set up the phone for my wife to use with a new number and carrier. Do I unlock under my itunes account first ( I now have a new iphone on this account) or set one up for her and then unlock the phone. I am worried about upsetting the new phone.

I would complete unlocking as is and then
restore as new once you know the iPhone is unlocked
Be aware Orange will process the request at their speed
one of the reasons they usually reside at bottom of User Sat surveys
will likely take weeks
This may also help
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT5014

HT204053 I have one apple ID for purchases and then my mobile me ID where I use for email. So I have set my cloud with my mobile me name, while keeping my purchases the original name. Will my purchases be recognized as purchases when backup is finished.

I have one apple ID for purchases and then my mobile me ID where I use for email. So I have set my cloud with my mobile me name, while keeping my purchases the original name. Will my purchases be recognized as purchases when backup is finished.

Welcome to the Apple community.
So long as you are logged into the iTunes Store, using the correct ID and password (settings >store), then you will always have access to your apps, books, music, TV shows etc etc bought via the iTunes Store on that account.

Have family plan with 250 data which I almost use each month. Going on vacation and will be on the road for two weeks. Should I up my data for a month then change back. Is it worth it or should I just run over and pay the extra 15 per gig?

have family plan with 250 data which I almost use each month. Going on vacation and will be on the road for two weeks. Should I up my data for a month then change back. Is it worth it or should I just run over and pay the extra 15 per gig?

Hello mlazaretti. Vacation time is awesome. (Especially a road trip!) Since you will be going out for two weeks, you never know if having extra data may come in handy. I highly recommend switching to the next tier up so this way you have more data. This way it is only $10.00 more versus $15.00, and you dont have to worry about overages. Then change back at the start of the next billing cycle.
If you need help making this change let us know! Have a safe trip!
NicandroN_VZW
Follow us on twitter @VZWSupport

Adobe creative cloud has stopped working, all my individual programmes from adobe open and work fine, but when I try to open adobe cloud it starts to open then says adobe cloud has stopped working, looking for a solution then shuts down, I can not open it

Adobe creative cloud has stopped working, all my individual programmes from adobe open and work fine, but when I try to open adobe cloud it starts to open then says adobe cloud has stopped working, looking for a solution then shuts down, I can not open it at all.

Without proper system information and the application logs nobody can tell you much.
Troubleshoot Creative Cloud download and install issues
Mylenium

When I go to FaceTime I put in my Apple ID and then sign in, it signs in so I then tap next but it says its Verifying for a bit then takes me back to the sign in, what do I do?

When I go to FaceTime I put in my Apple ID and then sign in, it signs in so I then tap next but it says its Verifying for a bit then takes me back to the sign in, what do I do?

I did what they said but it still had me sign in and took me to the Virfying. Still does not work

Some pictures in I-Photo seem to be corrupted. When I click on them, the photo comes up for a second, then the picture turns black with a white fuzzy circle inside it and what looks like an explanation mark. Some older, some newer, no common thread.

Some pictures in I-Photo seem to be corrupted. When I click on them, they come up for a second, then turn black with a white circle in the middle and what looks like an explanation mark. There does not seem to be any rhyme or reason to the photos that are a problem, some older ones, some newer, some albums have none, some albums have a lot.
Thanks,
Mark

time to time (when I have a chance), I will go to Finder, bring up ALL Images and start going through them to label them (before I put a label on them, they are simply listed as 123 jpg, 124 jpg etc.).
You're damaging the Library doing that, and that's the cause of your problem.
Never, ever, ever use the All Images search and work on items in yoyr iPhoto Library. They must only be accessed via the iPhoto window.
Restroe from abck up or try rebuild the Library:
Download iPhoto Library Manager and use its rebuild function. (In early versions of Library Manager it's the File -> Rebuild command. In later versions it's under the Library menu.)
This will create an entirely new library. It will then copy (or try to) your photos and all the associated metadata and versions to this new Library, and arrange it as close as it can to what you had in the damaged Library. It does this based on information it finds in the iPhoto sharing mechanism - but that means that things not shared won't be there, so no slideshows, books or calendars, for instance - but it should get all your events, albums and keywords, faces and places back.
Because this process creates an entirely new library and leaves your old one untouched, it is non-destructive, and if you're not happy with the results you can simply return to your old one.
Next: You need to learn how to use iPhoto. There's no need to be dragging things to the desktop:
For help accessing your photos in iPhoto see this user tip:
https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-4491

How can I make a intro page for my website, then after the intro has run make the page automatically change to my we site home screen

how can I make a intro page for my website, then after the intro has run make the page automatically change to my website's home screen

You can do this using a meta refresh but the problem is you have to add it to the html file for the page very time you publish changes.
A better way is to create a splash page and upload it to the server outside of the folder produced by iWeb. Example HERE.
The meta refresh is added to the head section of the html file...
<meta http-equiv="refresh" content="32;url=http://www.domain.about.com/Page-Name.html">
The delay time in seconds is marked in blue and the URL to the redirect page is in red.

MacBook pro doesnt start. When I start my lap top, it shows the apple and the line uploading but it only goes like to 1/3 and then it goes blank for some seconds, then it turns off by itself and turn on again and happen the same, apple logo, etc

MacBook Pro doesnt start. When I start my lap top, it shows the apple and the line uploading but it only goes like to 1/3 and then it goes blank for some seconds, then it turns off by itself and turn on again and happen the same, apple logo, line .. the noise like-fan going on, then turn off and turn on again. Tried starting holding option command P and R key and didnt work either. Starting to think I have lost all my data inside

Try a SMC reset.
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht3964
It might be helpful if you indicated the exact model/year of your MBP. Are you running Lion OSX?
Ciao.

Interlaced HDV 50i to HD 25p for 2k grade then cinema.

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for