Taking 100fps footage down to 24 or 30

Sorry if this is an obvious question here - I'm learning! Using Premiere Pro CC on an iMac i7 16 gigs of ram
So, I am receiving footage to be edited into a 60-90 second spot. They are going to want some time remapping effects so they ended up shooting the ENTIRE thing at 100 fps.
Now for this project only select clips will end up even needing to be slowed down, ramped, etc.
For shots where I don't require the 100 fps, if I set up my project and sequence at either 24 or 30, will I be able to drop cuts into my sequence and have it be normal? or will I need to do some sort of massive duplication and conversion up front.
Thank you SO MUCH in advance!

What camera are you shooting with? If it's the RED cameras, the operator will usually shoot let's say 120fps and set the playback frame rate to 23.976 for slow motion playback, so when you import the clips into Premiere, it will automatically playback at 23.976fps.
Once I had 50fps clips and I needed an option to edit in real time in 25fps. For that, I can simply interpret the clips to playback at 50fps and edit in a 25p sequence. As 50fps is exactly twice the fps of 25, the conversion is pretty straightforward, and there aren't any interpolated frames.
In your case, you would set the frame rate to 120fps (if they shot 120fps), and Premiere should be able to do the frame rate conversion without interpolating frames. But the thing is whether 120fps is exactly 120fps, because in the NTSC world, you have 60Hz and you have 59.94Hz... 120fps will convert to 24p quite easily by dropping one out of every 5 frames, and you can slow that down to 23.976 after the edit and add a pulldown to go up to 29.976fps. That or you can edit in a straight 30fps and conform it down to 29.97fps.
That said motion quality may look a bit awkward, due to the different shutter speed required for shooting 24p and 120fps.

Similar Messages

In the Quicktime 7 A/V controls, how fast is the 2x playback really because it isnt twice as fast. I shot a music video on the 2x setting and when we slowed the footage down to half time, it did not line up.

In the Quicktime 7 A/V controls, how fast is the 2x playback really because it isnt twice as fast. I shot a music video on the 2x setting and when we slowed the footage down to half time, it did not line up.

one last thing: I'm also getting this problem here too:
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/5324398?start=15&tstart=0

Why my iPhone 5S taking pictures upside down?

I have iOS 8.1 installed in my iPhone. While taking the picture sometimes it displays the camera screen in upside down direction and pictures taken also in upside down direction but sometimes it works fine.
Also I have encountered that while taking first picture flash sound doesn't come out (Ensured that iPhone is not on silent mode), for the rest of the pictures, it works fine. Could anyone please help me in this.

Have you tried soft reseting it. Holding the power and home screen buttons. For about 10 seconds. If not the next thing I would do is reset all settings.: Settings > General > Reset > Reset all settings. If that still does not work. Restoring to factory with iTunes and not loading a backup. Would be the next testing step. If still does not work. Then it would be something apple would need to fix for you. (1-800-MY-APPLE)
Get help with hardware features on your iPhone, iPad, and iPod touch - Apple Support

QuickTime Taking over my down loads

I have and use iTunes (iPod). When I installed iTunes the software also installed a plain jane version of QT. I didn't really care until it, QT, took over my music down loads. I down load free music from some sites like GarageBand.com and such. Before QT was installed I had no problem doing this. I just select the MP3 and down load it. Now that QT is installed I can no longer do that. Instead of simply downloading the mp3 file, QT comes up and takes over the download. QT will allow me to play the song, it loads it and all. However when I reaquest QT save the file as a source file it will not allow me to since I don't have the "full" version of the QT program.
Next thing you know QT wants me to buy the full program. I don't need that. I just want to download and save the MP3 file.
Can anyone tell me how to get QT out of the middle of my downloads?
I have been into the control panel --> QT --> file types and turned off everything except .mov However QT STILL comes up every time I try an MP3 download.
How do I get QT out of my hair? If I uninstall it I can down load mp3s just fine but then iTunes won't work.
Hekp anyone?
Thanks,
Tom

QTKirk,
Thanks for the help but QT is clearly the root of the problem. For years before hand and on several different computers I have had no problem downloading mp3 files. I never had a problem until I first loaded iTunes and the installer inserted QT also. Then major problem.
Also, if I uninstall QT I once again have no problem. This is Apple taking a page from the Bill Gate's "How to force customers to buy your product" business book. Apple has forced QT to insert itself in my computer and browsers, both Netscape and Explorer. They also have forced it to start at boot up. None of which I wanted, asked for or needed. Then, Apple does this nice little sneaky move and does not provide you the full copy and they end up forcing you to buy it.
There must be a hundered other mp3 players out there, WMP, RealPlayer, Music Match, etc... none require you to buy any other software and none take over your down loads.
Does anyone know how to stop QT from running at boot up?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Tom

Hdv 1080 50i footage down-converted to PAL DV query

Hi,
I've captured a bunch of tapes down converted from the original HDV (through a Z1) to PAL. I'd now like to recapture these tapes as HDV footage. Would it be simply a case of copying the edited sequence, pasting it in an HDV 1080 sequence and reconnecting the clips to the new HDV media files after recapturing the tapes, or is it going to be more complicated than that?
Cheers,
Ant

I've never done this, but I think you're going to have some issues, depending on how you captured the DV version. If you took it as one long capture, the HDV clips won't be the same and you won't be able to relink.
You might end up having to replace all the clips one at a time. At least the timecode will match.

Slowing fcp footage down to zero

Is there any way of grading footage so that it slows down from, say 50% to zero or close to? Thanks.

Read this.

Taking a server down for maintenance

Hi,
I have two weblogic servers (6.0 sp2), running on separate machines, participating
in a cluster.
I have 2 apache servers on the front-line using the weblogic plugin to handle
load-balancing the requests to the weblogic cluster.
How do I deativate a server? How do I stop all NEW requests going to a particular
server in a cluster so that I can take the machine that the server is running
on down for maintenance?
I do not want to stop the server as I would like to continue serving the requests
that have been directed to that particular server by the proxy plugin. I would
prefer to stop NEW requests going to box, and then take down the server once all
sessions have ended.
How do most people take physical machines down for maintenance?
Thanks
Richard

By suspending the server?
Richard Human wrote:
Hi,
I have two weblogic servers (6.0 sp2), running on separate machines, participating
in a cluster.
I have 2 apache servers on the front-line using the weblogic plugin to handle
load-balancing the requests to the weblogic cluster.
How do I deativate a server? How do I stop all NEW requests going to a particular
server in a cluster so that I can take the machine that the server is running
on down for maintenance?
I do not want to stop the server as I would like to continue serving the requests
that have been directed to that particular server by the proxy plugin. I would
prefer to stop NEW requests going to box, and then take down the server once all
sessions have ended.
How do most people take physical machines down for maintenance?
Thanks
Richard

Adobe flash player 10 taking forever to down load!

I have not long rebooted my whole pc as i was having a few problems. Finally i'm back up and running and i try to install adobe 10 which i have used before and had no problems downloading it only took a couple of minutes. But this time when i'm trying to download it seems to be taking forever i mean about 1% per hour and i have been unable to download it. my java script is enabled and i have 704 mb of ram. I just cant get to the bottom of it? please help.

Hi, what operating system are your using and is it 32bit or 64bit. Also what browser(s) are you using and versions please.
Did you Uninstall Flash Player using the Adobe Uninstaller prior to trying to download?
Check your Security setting for the Internet Zone and make sure it is set at Medium.
Anti-Virus/Spyware/Firewall programs, ad blockers, etc can have an affect also.
Thanks,
eidnolb

Taking a step down to Lion

I recently purchased a FireWire recording interface (presonus Firepod/FP10) which is not supported with OS X Mountain Lion (which I have on my 2010 MacBook Pro). It is, however, supported on OS X Lion. Should I take the backwards step to Lion, and if yes, where would I download it from?
Cheers!

If it is a 2010 model then that computer warehouse sold you a Mac with a pirated version of Mt Lion. Since Mt Lion didn't come out until 2012 and the only way to get it was a download after buying it with a valid Apple ID that copy is Tied to whoever originally purchased and installed it on that Mac you have.
In that case you will need to contact Apple, have the serial # of that system, and order a Replacement set of System DVD discs. Then once you wipe the drive and reinstall the original OS, Update/Upgrade it to Snow Leopard 10.6.8, create an Apple ID (If you don't have one already) you can then Contact Apple again and order Lion and they will send you a code to your Apple ID email address to Redeem Lion from the Mac App Store.
Good Luck & Best Wishes.
connor51 wrote:
I bought my MacBook Pro from a computer parts warehouse and it came with Mountain Lion. I do not know if it ever had Snow Leopard or Lion on it previously; I bought it used.

16:9 formula

when ever i export to quicktime conversion why is it that im not getting a 16:9 widescreen window just an SD 4:3 it does fine when exporting from iMovie but when i export from fcehd i get the plain old SD box and it does this when i make it into a quicktime movie for iDVD and play it on my big sony t.v. (not HD) but i still dont get 16:9 letter boxes i have to go into the t.v. menu and set it for 16:9... i understand that some tv's dont switch to 16:9 for HD and some do auto letterboxing, and some do when showing HD content so im wondering if is the TV or my output settings
back to my .mov output.....
i put the conversion setting on "LAN/intranet" (H.264 etc.) the quality is good for taking the footage down to 20MB( to use on .Mac)its just in not getting widescreen
whats the formula i should use to get 16:9 all the time

The problem with iDVD not setting the 16:9 flag is a known and documented <http://capital2.capital.edu/admin-staff/dalthoff/widescreen.html> bug in iDVD 5 (I don't recall if iDVD versions prior to v.5 were capable of producing widescreen video at all). But if you'd rather just fix it rather than read about it, download Anamorphicizer <http://homepage.mac.com/sith33/FileSharing34.html>. Not sure if this is fixed in version 6 (the version that is shipping in the iLife '06 suite).
As for determining 16:9 frame sizes, you used the magic word: ratio. Ratio, fraction, indicated division... whatever you want to call it. 16 divided by 9 = 1.7777777778 (roughly) which tells you that a 16:9 frame width is 1.7777777778x the height (it's probably easier to do the reciprocal: multiply the width you want by 0.5625 to get the height). You can't have fractional pixels though, so a combination like 360x202.5 isn't going to cut it.
The bigger the frame size though, the more data you have and the bigger the file. "Web use" means different things to different people. Only you can decide what combination of frame size, frame rate, data rate, encoding method, etc. will suit your audience. If you use only H264 you effectively shut out anyone who is not using Quicktime 7 (not sure if there are other options for H264 decoding available to Windows users as yet, but Mac users must have QT7 to view H264). H264 does give the best yet combination of image quality vs file size. MPEG-4 is pretty good quality but it's really necessary to reduce frame size and data rates to get file sizes down to something that can be downloaded (if that's you're intent). If you want streaming video instead of downloadable files you'll have to make those choices before encoding as well.
As a starting point for web video (either for download or streaming), encode for a width of 320 pixels (at 4:3 that's 320x240), set your video quality to about medium high or medium and try to keep your data rate under 500Kbps. If 16:9 at 320x180 looks small, increase the width, but cautiously. A video at 640x480 contains 4 times the number of pixels per frame as a video at 320x240 (note "per frame" - reducing frame rate can significantly reduce file size, but can make your video appear "jittery" on playback). For web use smaller is usually better (but if your audience needs to pull out a magnifying glass to view your video you've gone to far).

Improving look of time lapse footage

I am taking about 80 minutes of footage down to 3:30, and was looking for some tips for improving the look.
I added motion blur, which improved the choppy look of the person in frame (this is a surfboard being shaped), but really killed the detail on the deck of the board.
I have heard people mention deinterlacing and changing the field order or blending can help.....?
I'd appreciate any thoughts on the subject, thanks guys.

Bueller? Bueller?

PLEASE HELP - 24P footage issue

Hey Guys,
SO I was hoping someone might be able to shed some light on a problem I'm having. We shot and have edited a feature film on the Sony ZU1 camcorder on their 24P setting CF24, and I captured it into Final Cut with the pull down setting and it looks great. The problem is when I try and make a DVD copy of the master file, it has a horrible shutter look on the TV. Am I not exporting it properly...it looks amazing on the computer? IS there anything I can do to preserve the quality from the computer to a master export?
I have been fooling around with COmpressor and made two High Quality DVD MPEG2 exports from the Final Cut Quicktime File, with one on the compressor 23.98 and one at 29.97. The 23.98 MPEG had a horizontal interlace to it and the 29.97 MPEG had a really nice clow to it but a nasty flicker to some aspects.
I know that Sony Cineframe is not the best 24P option but seeing as that is unchangeble is there anyway to take my computer quality flow to DVD?

Sony HDV only records to tape as either 60i or 50i. If you have changed the time base somehow then that is your issue. Unless you are truly taking this footage to film then you don't need to ever change the frame rate. You can't remove frames from an interlace only camera.
Z1

Resizing theory - source footage and compositions

Hi,
Two quick questions:
1)
Are the two processes below the same for the output quality
Assuming I need for example 960x540 sequence out of the 1920x1080 I originally captured.
a) I am working in a full HD sequence, then by the end I export everything to 960x540
b) I am working in a custom 960x540 project, scale down every clip manually, then export to 960x540
2)
If I have source fullHD footage, then import it to a say a NTSC sequence then scale the given clip up (i.e for a zoom effect) but not go over the original HD (say zoom-in 200% in NTSC), will it affect the output quality?
What would happen, if with source fullHD footage I was working on a fullHD sequence, done the same but then exported as small composition? Would it retain the quality or would it deteriorate?

I would personally go with choice A.) in the first question, simply because then if ever want to export a full 1920x1080 copy you won't need to scale everything up to do so.. So I'd recommend you work inside a 1920x1080 then export to your recommended frame size when you're finished editing.
For question number two if you import full HD footage into a NTSC (720x480) sequence then you most likely won't ever need to scale the HD footage, because it will already be HUGE compared to the sequence you're working in. However if you do scale the HD clip up to 200 percent it will indeed make your picutre quality lower.
If you work with full HD footage inside a full HD sequence then export to SD or another smaller frame size the quality will lower, because the frame size is smaller therefore less pixels, but this isn't because of the workflow it's just because when you scale stuff down therefore making the picture contain less pixels the quality will appear lower.
So either way you go when you're taking HD footage then making it smaller you're going to be lowering it's quality, simply because there won't be as many pixels.

CSA 5.1 causes significal slow down on windows 2000 server

We have recently installed CSA 5.1 and agents on a bunch of windows servers. All the shims and enabled and only the default policy agents for windows is enabled.
Applications which does FTP and moves files from one folder to another etc are taking significal slow down.
Processes that used to complete 3 minutes are now taking more than 30 minutes to complete. All the polcies and rules are in test mode.
Should we fine tune the rules first on disable couple of shims first to see what is the cause of this slow down. If we turn off CSA, processes run as normal.

One thing you can try is removing the host from all groups. It will still be a member of the group.
If that doesn't fix performance, remove all policies from the group (and attach them to another group to keep the rules in effect for other hosts) and see if that helps.
This should tell you if it's the agent and\or shim causing the problem, or if a rule is doing it.
Don't forget to move the policies back to the group when you are done.
Tom

Best approach to convert HD camcorder footage to blue-ray (and archive)

I have a Canon Vixia HV30 camcorder that I have used to take HD footage. I would like to archive the tapes' raw footage (for backup purposes) and also burn a blue-ray for each tape. Prior to the Canon (and switching to Macs) I had been using Studio on a Windows system to do the same for footage from a standard def Sony camcorder. Despite reading through the material on this forum and elsewhere I am confused about a couple of items and am hoping someone can help me understand how to archive and burn the camroder footage to BD easily.
Coming from the Windows environment, I was used to Studio taking raw footage and converting the entire tape to one .avi file that I could then edit in a baisc manner (trim, add menus, add transitions, add chapters, etc. but not adding other audio, etc.) and burn...all in Studio. The Windows desktop I had been using for standard def is not powerful enough for HD (it's from 2004) so I have to explore other options.
I have a MacBook Pro with a 2.5 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo process and 4 GB memory and am using Mac OS X 10.6.8. I also have iMovie 08 (7.1.4 [585]) and Toast Titanium Pro with the HD/BD plug in (11.0.04). Toast will not recognize the Canon camcorder connected using the Firewire 400 connection (but will recognize the Sony). So I have used iMovie to download the camcorder footage to my MBP in HD (full quality).
Here are my questions:
1. when downloading, it appears that iMovie does not retain the raw/same format as used by the Canon but converts it to something called Apple Intermediate Codecc. Does this converstion affect the quality of the footage? I do not want to use the convered material as archival material if it's already been converted once.
2. If the answer to # 1 is yes, iMovie converts the raw footage, is there another program that I can use in a Mac-environment that will simply download the footage in it's original format?
3. iMovie also splits up the footage into clips vs. showing one file and I cannot combine the clips into one clip (to be analogous to the workflow I have been used to in Studio). Is there a way to do so? Short of backing up my entire laptop (which I do), how can I extract the original footage from iMovie and copy it for archiving on a NAS drive?
4. Where is the best "place"/approach to perform basic editing (adding menu, adding chapters for different sections of the disc, etc.) on the footage?
5. If the answer to #4 is iMovie, would I then simply burn the iMovie project in Toast to Blue-ray?
I had thought achieving my goals would have been easy in a Mac environment (like it is for everything else) but am surprised to find it so difficult compared to how easy it was in Studio. (Am I really better off getting a lower-end Windows 7 desktop and upgrading Studio and keep that just for converting our HD camcorder tapes to blue-ray? I would rather not do so of course.)
Thanks in advance for your help.

Calbe and AppleMan1958
Thanks for the replies. Based on your replies, I think I can stay in the Mac-environment.
1 and 2. I cannot archive as AppleMan1958 suggested to keep the original without conversion because the footage is HDV 1080i. I understand however that iMovie will import and convert using a lossles codec. (The camera is tape-based and doesn't show up in Finder.)
3. Having archived copy (if there is software that will let me do so for HDV) will negate the need to find the iMovie "version" but if necessary can do so directly.
4. One follow-up questions...if I use iMovies, do I simply use the project or the actual movie for purposes of burning to disc?
5. I agree Calbe...it's different so I'm thinking it's difficult. I am sure I'll get the hang of it once I better understand how the flow works from camera to disc!
AppleMan1958, is there another consumer level app that you can recommend that I can use for archiving HDV?
Thanks for the quick replies.
Hollistonma

Taking 100fps footage down to 24 or 30

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for