2 recommendations to make life better for us all!

Here are a couple suggestions I have based on my iPhone usage:
1) In order to make it even easier to navigate the pages on the home screen, how about adding the ability to scroll the page number dots at the bottom of the screen similar to the way text is scrolled through (slight magnification as the cursor moves down the line), then on the release the screen would shift the highlighted page.
2) App Store downloads: for people like me who periodically scroll through the app store on the iPhone and see multiple apps that are wanting to be downloaded, it's somewhat of a pain to have to wait for each app to install itself, and then have to re-open the App Store to download the next desired app. How about the ability to queuing app store purchases in a similar way updates are already handled, and then have them all download at once? This can't be that hard to do since it is already being done with the updated apps. This could also be applied to the iTunes store app.
Think about it!

Tell Apple. We are iphone users like you:
http://www.apple.com/feedback/iphone.html

Similar Messages

IOS 6.1.2 make battery life better for iphone 4?

I just updated my iPhone 4 16gb to ios 6.1.2 and the battery life has increased dramatically. From gettin less than 5 hours usage time on ios 6.0.1, I get 7+ on ios 6.1.2. I do not use no email servers just use safari to browse around, texting, few games and i use whatsapp constantly. I recommend upgrading to ios 6.1.2 if your are experiencing short battery life on the previous ios versions!

Regarding
updates somehow add more space to an iPod or I phone 5
No, storage can't be added via an update. If you want more storage you need to get an iPod with more storage
And can voice memos be played on a doc
You can email the memo or sync it to a computer. Then you can insert it in a document like you insert any audio file.

SMB makes life unbearable for AFP network directory users

We have a an XServe/XServe RAID combo running 10.4.11 acting as a home directory server for around 20-30 simultaneous users. Most use network home directory accounts served by AFP to desktop Macs. A handful use PCs (SMB access) or Linux boxen (NFS access).
Some patterns of SMB usage render the network accounts almost unusable: a spinny cursor of doom, and long periods of sluggishness or inactivity. Meanwhile, on the server, smbd uses 100% of one of the cores.
This is not necessarily associated with high network traffic - even light data transfer by SMB peaking at 200kB/s can have this effect. We're on a mixed 100 base-T/gigabit network, so we're not reaching anywhere near saturation. High-bandwidth access via NFS is barely noticeable to AFP users.
- Can people recommend further diagnostic approaches?
- Can SMB on the XServe be tuned to avoid this?
- Is there anything else I can do to avoid the problem?
TIA

Apologies for the double-post. I blame SMB.

Is it better for your battery if you let it run down all the way and then charge it? Or to charge it whenever you have the opportunity? Which is better for the life of the battery?

I was wondering it the life of the battery would last longer if you let the battery run down all the way and then charge it? Or to charge it whenever you have the opportunity even if it doesn't have a low battery? Which is better for the life of the battery and prolong the life of the battery?

I've had a iPhone 4s since March 2012, and it's battery is pretty useless now. I was using the app Battery Doctor (Battery Saver, Battery Life) by Beijing Kingsoft Internet Security software, which encourages the user to charge more often, whenever battery life drops below 100% full and greater than 20% full, and gives ratings according to the number of full, partial & overcharges done, but I'm concerned that charging like that actually results in worse battery life??
I now have an new iPhone 5 and don't want the battery to only last as short as the last one did
Any advice/comments please

What is the difference between Firefox and Firefox os please. I have a Samsung galaxy s3 mini what one would you recommend would be better for my phone

What is the difference between Firefox and Firefox os, and what one is better for the Samsung galaxy s3 mini, Please could you recommend which one is the best and most suitable for my phone please. Many thanks Michelle Petch

Thank you for your question.
Firefox is basically a browser.And Firefox OS is an Operating System.You can install Firefox in your SGS3 just like an android application.But if you want Firefox operating system on it. then you have to flash the ported Firefox OS on your device. Then it will be a completely different standalone operating system.you cannot install android applications on it.
To read more technical difference read:
Firefox OS:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Firefox_OS
Firefox Browser:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Firefox
Hope this clears your query.Thank you

Whats better for my mbp 2013 retina in the long run? Keep it plugged in as much as possible or letting the battery hit 10% and then recharge it?

Whats better for my mbp 2013 retina in the long run? Keep it plugged in as much as possible or letting the battery hit 10% and then recharge it?

Odd you ask that, since both are HORRIBLE,   ... especially often draining your battery low.
General consideration of your MacBook battery
Contrary to popular myths about notebook batteries, there is protection circuitry in your Macbook and therefore you cannot ‘overcharge’ your notebook when plugged in and already fully charged.
However if you do not plan on using your notebook for several hours, turn it off (plugged in or otherwise), since you do not want your Macbook ‘both always plugged in and in sleep mode’.
A lot of battery experts call the use of Lithium-Ion cells the "80% Rule", meaning use 80% of the full charge or so, then recharge them for longer overall life. The only quantified damage done in the use of Lithium Ion batteries are instances where the internal notebook battery is “often drained very low”, this is bad general use of your notebook battery.
A person who has, for example, 300 charge cycles on their battery and is recharging at say 40% remaining of a 100% charge has a better battery condition state than, say, another person who has 300 charge cycles on their battery and is recharging at say 10-15% remaining on a 100% charge. DoD (depth of discharge) is much more important on the wear and tear on your Macbook’s battery than the count of charge cycles. There is no set “mile” or wear from a charge cycle in specific. Frequent high depth of discharge rates (draining the battery very low) on a Lithium battery will hasten the lowering of maximum battery capacity.
All batteries in any device are a consumable meant to be replaced eventually after much time, even under perfect use conditions.
If the massive amount of data that exists on lithium batteries were to be condensed into a simplex, helpful, and memorable bit of information it would be:
1. While realistically a bit impractical during normal everyday use, a lithium battery's longevity and its chemistry's health is most happy swinging back and forth between 20% and 85% charge roughly.
2. Do not purposefully drain your battery very low (10% and less), and do not keep them charged often or always high (100%).
3. Lithium batteries do not like the following:
A: Deep discharges, as meaning roughly 10% or less on a frequent basis.
B: Rapid discharges as referring to energy intensive gaming on battery on a frequent basis (in which case while gaming, if possible, do same on power rather than battery). This is a minor consideration.
C: Constant inflation, as meaning always or most often on charge, and certainly not both in sleep mode and on charge always or often.
From Apple on batteries:
http://www.apple.com/batteries/notebooks.html
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1446
"Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time."
Keep it plugged in when near a socket so you keep the charging cycles down on your LiPo (lithium polymer) cells / battery, but not plugged in all the time. When not being used for several hours, turn it off.
DoD (depth of discharge) is far more important on the wear and tear on your Macbook battery than any mere charge cycle count. *There is no set “mile” or wear from a charge cycle in general OR in specific.    As such, contrary to popular conception, counting cycles is not conclusive whatsoever, rather the amount of deep DoD on an averaged scale of its use and charging conditions.
                          (as a very rough analogy would be 20,000 hard miles put on a car vs. 80,000 good miles being something similar)
*Contrary to some myths out there, there is protection circuitry in your Macbook and therefore you cannot overcharge it when plugged in and already fully charged
*However if you don’t plan on using it for a few hours, turn it OFF (plugged in or otherwise) ..*You don’t want your Macbook both always plugged in AND in sleep mode       (When portable devices are charging and in the on or sleep position, the current that is drawn through the device is called the parasitic load and will alter the dynamics of charge cycle. Battery manufacturers advise against parasitic loading because it induces mini-cycles.)
Keeping batteries connected to a charger ensures that periodic "top-ups" do very minor but continuous damage to individual cells, hence Apples recommendation above:   “Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time”, …this is because “Li-ion degrades fastest at high state-of-charge”.
                    This is also the same reason new Apple notebooks are packaged with 50% charges and not 100%.
Contrary to what some might say, Lithium batteries have an "ideal" break in period. First ten cycles or so, don't discharge down past 40% of the battery's capacity. Same way you don’t take a new car out and speed and rev the engine hard first 100 or so miles.
Proper treatment is still important. Just because LiPo batteries don’t need conditioning in general, does NOT mean they dont have an ideal use / recharge environment. Anything can be abused even if it doesn’t need conditioning.
Storing your MacBook
If you are going to store your MacBook away for an extended period of time, keep it in a cool location (room temperature roughly 22° C or about 72° F). Make certain you have at least a 50% charge on the internal battery of your Macbook if you plan on storing it away for a few months; recharge your battery to 50% or so every six months roughly if being stored away. If you live in a humid environment, keep your Macbook stored in its zippered case to prevent infiltration of humidity on the internals of your Macbook which could lead to corrosion.
Considerations:
Your battery is subject to chemical aging even if not in use. A Lithium battery is aging as soon as its made, regardless.
In a perfect (although impractical) situation, your lithium battery is best idealized swinging back and forth between 20 and 85% SOC (state of charge) roughly.
Further still how you discharge the battery is far more important than how it is either charged or stored short term, and more important long term that cycle counts.
Ultimately counting charge cycles is of little importance. Abuse in discharging (foremost), charging, and storing the battery and how it affects battery chemistry is important and not the ‘odometer’ reading, or cycle counts on the battery.
Everything boils down to battery chemistry long term, and not an arbitrary number, or cycle count.
Keep your macbook plugged in when near a socket since in the near end of long-term life, this is beneficial to the battery.
In a lithium battery, deep discharges alter the chemistry of the anode to take up lithium ions and slowly damages the batteries capacity for the cathode to transport lithium ions to the anode when charging, thereby reducing max charge levels in mAh. In short, radical swings of power to lithium cells disrupts the chemical ecosystem of the battery to hold charges correctly which likewise impedes the perfect transfer of lithium ions both in charging and discharging. In charging your lithium battery, lithium ions are “pushed uphill” (hard) to the anode, and discharged “downhill” (easy) to the cathode when on battery power. Deep discharges, damages this “upward” electrolyte chemistry for the battery to maintain a healthy charge and discharge balance relative to its age and cycles.
Optimally, in terms of a healthy lithium battery and its condition, it is most happy at 50% between extremes, which is why low-power-drain processors such as the Haswell are ideal on lithium battery health since a partially charged battery with a low-drain processor has, in general, much more usage in hours
Battery calibration, battery memory, battery overcharging, battery training, …all these concepts are mostly holdovers from much older battery technology, and on older Apple portable Macbooks ranging from early nicads, NiMh and otherwise; and these practices do not apply to your lithium battery and its smart controllers.
Calibrating the battery on older Apple portable Macbooks with removable batteries.
http://support.apple.com/kb/PH14087
There is no calibration of current Apple portable Macbooks with built-in batteries.
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1490
There is no battery calibration with current Apple portable Macbooks with built-in batteries. Lithium batteries have essentially a 0-‘memory’, and all such calibration involve the estimations fed to the system controller on the SOC (state of charge) of the battery over long periods of time as the battery degrades. The software based battery controller knows the battery's characteristics, or SOC and adjusts itself. This is why there is both no need and purpose to periodically deeply drain your macbook battery, since it doesn’t affect the characteristics of the battery, and further still deep discharges are something you should not do on purpose to any lithium battery.
From BASF: How Lithium Batteries work
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2PjyJhe7Q1g
Peace

Looking for new All in One. Is Officejet as good as Photosmart? Please recommend an All in One.

I have the HP Photosmart C7180 All in One that's a few years old and is starting to give me a lot of errors (mostly ink level errors). I'm thinking about replacing it, because I want one that doesn't use as much ink -- and one that has a bigger scanner bed (at least 11 x 14 or bigger). I'm a budding artist and I want to have the ability to scan in my drawings.
However, I do print a few photos now and then. Does anyone know if Officejets will print decent pictures?
Please recommend an All in One (the newer the better) for my needs.

Thanks! It sounds like a potential nightmare. Does
anyone have a different experience? I'm not
committed to an all-in-one, but it does save space.
If you're willing to take time and effort into the process, HP's MFDs and Brother's MFDs work... mostly. HP has even improved their drivers. It took 'em long enough.
No, I repeat, no MFD I've ever seen has been trouble-free, Mac or Windows. That includes Epson, Canon, HP, Brother, and (ugggh!) Lexmark devices. They all give problems. Not necessarily the same problems, but problems. HPs and Brothers give the least trouble with Epson a close third... but YMMV. I know people who swear by Canon, while in my personal experience Canon devices have been... not so good. But it was a limited sample, and maybe I had lemons.
Most MFDs (that is, everyone but Brother) don't easily do networking unless it's a Specific Feature™. My HP PSC1350, for instance, does not believe that such a thing as a network exists, and is that way if connected to Macs or Windows machines. I can make it visible over the network, but it's a pain.
If you want wireless network printing, get a wireless router (hint: Apple sells something called an AirPort Base Station) or access point which has a USB port and supports putting printers on the network. Note that you'll likely not be able to scan over the network.
There are network MFDs; HP makes some. They're expensive. The OfficeJet 74xx is $500, and it's the cheap HP network MFD. I do NOT own one, so I have no idea how well they work, other than they're HPs... which means that the hardware will probably be excellent, and the software dreck.

What are the steps to make it seamless for a customer to use the install program and then use the installed program?

I wrote an install program (.exe) that is downloaded from a website. When run, it 1) leads a customer to browse to a directory, and 2) copies files (.exe, .dll, etc.) from a website to that directory. When I run, the installed program works.
What are the steps to make it seamless for a customer to use the install program and then use the installed program?
bhs67

This site https://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/vstudio/2kt85ked%28v=vs.110%29.aspx provides a basic description of the Visual Studio Windows Installer.
Near the bottom of the page is "You can unlock all the features of InstallShield by paying to upgrade to the full version of InstallShield." Where do I find info that describes the differences between the "free" and the "full"
versions?
bhs67
Hello,
The default feature does support the task for your requirement, so there is no need to pay for the other features unless you want to use some feature which is not free.
In addition, as this thread
InstallShield LE not available with VS 2012 RTM? shared, even through there is a link to InstallShield LE in the New Project dialog under Deployment solutions, but it belongs to third-party that I would recommend you consider posting this issue
at the following forum to get supports about InstallShield.
http://community.flexerasoftware.com/forumdisplay.php?133-InstallShield
Regards.
Carl
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Which is better for physical therapy graduate student, a MacBook air or MacBook pro?

Which is better for a physical therapy graduate student, a MacBook air or MacBook pro?

Macbook Air
I cannot see you using strenuous applications to help you with a Physical Therapy Degree.
Have a think of whether you want an 11" or 13".
I'd recommend the 13" because although the 11" is perfect for taking notes in class etc.; when it comes to performing as a desktop and not sitting on your lap, it can seem too small.
The 13" is the best of both worlds. You can keep the portability and the power in one.
Make sure you get a large enough SSD, they always fill up fast with documents and possibly downloaded text books etc.
With the 13" if you decide to create a innovative project or a collection of photos, you can also use more RAM-consuming applications like iPhoto and iMovie, or even Aperture without worrying about freezing.

Which is better for gaming and why?

Hi,
I was researching budget gaming laptops(around $1000, INR 55000) and came up with two choices.....
1)HP Pavilion g6z-1d00 Notebook PC
http://shopping2.hp.com/en_US/home-office/-/products/Laptops/HP-Pavilion/A2B39AV?HP-Pavilion-g6z-1d0...
2)HP Envy 14-2130nr Notebook PC
http://shopping2.hp.com/en_US/home-office/-/products/Laptops/HP-ENVY/QE295UA?HP-ENVY-14-2130nr-Noteb...
Could anybody please tell me which is better for gaming (main purpose and best performance)?
The HP Envy looks great but I don't know much about AMD Quad Core.....
Also, is it possible to upgrade the graphics card on the HP Envy ( AMD Radeon 6630 to a better one) via a HP centre?
It seems to run most games quite well, but I need it to be able to play new games for at least 4 years more (college), while not factoring in the costs for any possible graphics card upgrade....
Please help!!

Thanks Huffer _ very useful.
I wasn't aware that there was a heat problem with the i7 processors, my dv8 runs at around 42 to 52 degrees, mind you I don't really put it under much load. I use it to play Blu-ray ISO files on my projector and for photo editing (Adobe CS4), it's an 820QM.
I have also changed the thermal compound to ICDiamond and drilled holes in the speaker cover to improve air flow, that made a difference too.
@ abhishekmaha
Don't take my comment to seriously, although I think it has some truth to it, it was meant to poke a bit of fun at you.
Heat has always been one of the biggest factors when it comes to any computer, designers try to make them thinner, lighter and cheaper and those types don't work for gaming very well. They're OK for the occasional one, but not on a regular basis. I believe that if you game on any machine that was not meant for it, you will not get 4 years out of it _ 2 years.
I wish I could tell you different, but I am not going to lie to you.
Heat basically affects 3 things on a laptop, the solder that holds the components on the motherboard, any mechanical moving parts, eg the hard drive, fan _ and the battery. You can remove the battery to prolong its life when gaming.
Heat breaks down the solder over time and the mother board simply stops working as far as the hard drive, it stops spinning because the tiny bearing(s) in there dry out and seize up.
If you don't want to use a cooling mat then prop up the back of the laptop, hanging it over the edge of the table will expose the fan intake, but will block off other vents.
60 degrees is a bit warm too, 50 is better or rather, the cooler the better. What ever machine you get, make a note of what the temps are when you first boot up and when it's hot. The idea is to get an average so you can judge when it is dangerously getting hot.
P.S. Be sure and give Huffer a kudos too.

Is the wall charger better for the battery then using the computer?

I was looking for things for my Shuffle to add to my Christmas list when I came across this in the Apple Store. Someones review said that this item is better for the battery as when you plug it into a computer it drains the battery, then recharges it. As to this iten which charges the empty space only and does not drain the battery before recharging. Is this true? I will give points to those who can answer.

Apparently it makes no difference to the life of the battery how or how often you charge it.
I charge mine in a USB port on the external speakers I bought (iSound) and a full charge takes about 3 hours. - this is about the same as just plugging it into your USB port on your PC.
(I tend to just top up the charge after a couple of uses)
I just find it more convenient to be able to charge it without having to power up the PC everytime.

HP Pavilion DV7 Battery, 4400mAh, 6600mAh ,8800mAh, which capacity is better for my hp laptop?

HP Pavilion DV7 Battery, 4400mAh, 6600mAh ,8800mAh, which capacity is better for my hp laptop?
Home
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HP Pavilion DV7 Battery
HP Pavilion DV7 Battery
30 day money back ! 1 year warranty !
Product Name :HP Pavilion DV7 Battery
The replacement HP Pavilion DV7 battery is specially designed for the original 6-12 Cell HP Pavilion DV7 battery.These high quality replacement batteries are engineered to meet or exceed original specifications assuring better performance and longer life. The quality of this HP/Compaq laptop battery is in high grade quality and certified by CE and RoHS. You can reassure of purchasing it!
Capacity :8800mAh
Voltage :10.8V
Cell Type :Li-ion
Color :Black
Weight :531g
Dimensions :205*53*38mm
Price :£ 54.57
Shopping Cart :
HP Pavilion DV7 Battery
30 day money back ! 1 year warranty !
Product Name :HP Pavilion DV7 Battery
The replacement HP Pavilion DV7 battery is specially designed for the original 6-12 Cell HP Pavilion DV7 battery.These high quality replacement batteries are engineered to meet or exceed original specifications assuring better performance and longer life. The quality of this HP/Compaq laptop battery is in high grade quality and certified by CE and RoHS. You can reassure of purchasing it!
Capacity :6600mAh
Voltage :10.8V
Cell Type :Li-ion
Color :Black
Weight :450g
Dimensions :205*53*38mm
Price :£ 48.57
Shopping Cart :
HP Pavilion DV7 Battery
30 day money back ! 1 year warranty !
Product Name :HP Pavilion DV7 Battery
The replacement HP Pavilion DV7 battery is specially designed for the original 6-12 Cell HP Pavilion DV7 battery.These high quality replacement batteries are engineered to meet or exceed original specifications assuring better performance and longer life. The quality of this HP/Compaq laptop battery is in high grade quality and certified by CE and RoHS. You can reassure of purchasing it!
Capacity :4400mAh
Voltage :10.8V
Cell Type :Li-ion
Color :Black
Weight :361g
Dimensions :205*53*38mm
Price :£ 34.57

I'm pretty sure battery capacity doesn't related with power performance of your system.. (in a notebook)
well perhaps this is just another way of people to advertise their website.
anyway. go for the biggest capacity, make sure it's genuine, and you can unplug ur battery if you dont have one

Hi. I am preparing for CA Bar Exam. I am considering buying MacBook Pro for exam writing. One is 13 inch 1499 dollar 2.5 GHz 8GB, the other is 15 inch MacBook Pro 2.7 GHz 2799 dollar 16 GB. Both are retina. Which one is better for me?

Hi. I am preparing for CA Bar Exam. I am considering buying MacBook Pro for exam writing. One is 13 inch 1499 dollar 2.5 GHz 8GB, the other is 15 inch MacBook Pro 2.7 GHz 2799 dollar 16 GB. Both are retina. Which one is better for me?
I will use Barclays Card for 18 month free interest.
I wil ask Apple clerk to avoid LG monitor.
I will buy those in Apple store.
Which one will you recommend?

Tha's something you need to decide for yourself.
Do you think you need 16GB of memory or 8 will be enough?
Do you need to carry your macbook around with you more often? if so just get the 13" it's easier to carry.
Or maybe you enjoy watching media on a bigger screen?
As for word processing it shouldn't be a problem on both notebooks.
Also can you afford buying the 15"?
And what about the hard drive capacity?
So my advice is to consider these aspects, make a list of pros and cons and see what you come up with

Whats better for college/grad school- ipad 3 with keyboard or mac book air? 11 inch

whats better for college/grad school- ipad 3 with keyboard or mac book air? 11 inch

Nobody can tell you which one is best for you, it's a personal preference. However, here are a few factors you might want to take into consideration:
1-They're two different devices that serve different purposes. The way you take notes in an iPad is different than the way you would on a MBA. On the iPad, with apps like Evernote and Notability you can take more complete notes than with a MBA. You have the option to have audio notes, write with a Stylus, make diagrams by hand to explain/relate concepts easily. With the external keyboard (for that I'd recommend using the Apple Wireless Keyboard with the InCase Origami Workstation) you could type just as fast as you would on a MBA and format the text just like you would on the MBA. However, for bigger (possibly partner) papers, the MBA would help you. You could start the paper on the iPad without any issues (using Pages or even Evernote) but you'd need a laptop/computer to finalize the project.
2-Portability wise, they're both incredibly light. The iPad is somewhat smaller = lighter but with the keyboard they're about the same. The fact that with the ipad + keyboard combo you can take out the keyboard only when you need it, for me, is an advantage be ause when I don't want to use it, it's not in the way. For others, it's a disadvantage because you have to carry two items instead of one.
3-The iPad needs a computer to be updated, synced, etc. So if you don't have one, definitely get the MBA. The MBA can work as a standalone computer. The iPad needs to be synced to an iTunes library in a computer.
4-MBA let's you access all websites and most file types. If one of your classes requires you to go to the Browser and see a Flash enabled page, the iPad would not be of much help. Same goes for any programs you might need to install. On the MBA you'll most likely be able to do so. On the iPad, chances are there won't be an app for that.
5-If you already have a MBP or any other laptop, I'd go for the iPad. If/when the iPad falls short(because of the limitations mentioned above) you can use the laptop. And in the mean time, use the iPad for everything else. That way you get the best of both worlds.
6-Studying (reading, highlighting, annotating) is easier and more intuitive on the iPad. The iPad is great for reading, combine that with the fact that you can leave comments/notes just like you would on a physical piece of paper, and you've got the best way to learn IMO.

Vmware Fusion Beta for Mac OSX Released Today

I don't know if this is the correct forum; if it's not, please pardon me.
VMware Fusion Beta for Mac OSX has been released today. This product, while the developers admit has some bugs in it, promises to make virtual computing a whole lot easier and would eliminate for many (not all) the need to use Boot Camp. The link for this new program is http://www.vmware.com/products/beta/fusion/
On that page you can find links for support and forums as well.
If you need a free virtual appliance to use with Fusion, then use this link http://www.vmware.com/vmtn/appliances/
Currently, there is no charge for using the BETA program. The VMWare folks are asking people to give feedback on their use of the product.
This is what we've been waiting for to purchase our new MAC. I can say without a doubt that from my own experience with Linux boxes, VMWare is the best virtual solution on the market. It's easy to configure and supports a wide variety of hardware and OSs. I can even move the virtual machines I created under Linux to my new MAC when I receive it.
The time has finally dawned for me to retire the last remaining pc towerbox in my home. My wife and I recently expunged one of those machines earlier this week and are eagerly looking forward to getting rid of the other one.
We am really looking forward to purchasing the new Mac Pro. What makes it especially appealing for us is it's scalability and the fact that we can use our current hardware,including our Kensington Track Ball mouse and current monitor with it, although we are taking a serious look at a new Apple Display as well.
Many thanks to everyone for taking the time to read this post. I am looking forward to joining and my wife is looking forward to rejoining the MAC community.

You might try the VMWare beta forum:
http://www.vmware.com/community/forum.jspa?forumID=371
Susan

2 recommendations to make life better for us all!

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