20-inch: 2.16GHz or 2.33GHz
Hello all.
Thinking of moving to an Intel iMac soon, quite definitely getting a 20-inch (instead of the bigger 24"), but is there like a significant speed boost by upgrading to a 2.33 GHz? What kind of percentage % speed boost am I looking at?
Of course you guys would probably say go for more Ram, go for maximum Ram, I am thinking of getting 2Gb first, is it possible to get 1 x 2Gb of Ram to fill up one slot and leave the other empty, for future expansion; Or the system architecture requires a pair?
Thanks and cheers
Hello
" there like a significant speed boost by upgrading to a 2.33 GHz? What kind of percentage % speed boost am I looking at?"
I believe it depends on what you will be doing, but the benchmarks I have seen from macworld suggest 5-6%
"is it possible to get 1 x 2Gb of Ram to fill up one slot and leave the other empty, for future expansion; Or the system architecture requires a pair?"
The main factor here is the cost of the 2GB memory, which is an extra $976 (singapore dollars) to upgrade from 2GB to 3GB, which is over double the extra cost of the processor upgrade. You can use a single 2GB module although apple do not seem to offer that as it will be much more expensive than a set of 2 x 1GB modules. Surely better to get the paired 1GB modules and sell one later if you upgrade?
It depends on what you want the computer for but I have decided to stick with the 2 X 1 GB configuration. The money I save can go towards the latest imac when I upgrade in 2-3 years time.
Hope this helps
Imac G5 1.8 20 inch Mac OS X (10.4.8) 1GB Ram, 5200 video card
Similar Messages
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MacBook Pro
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(73883) -
Migrating from old G4 15-inch Flat Panel to new iMac 24-inch 2.16GHz
Just purchased a refurbed 24" iMac with 2.16GHz core duo from Apple. Currently work on 15-inch flat panel 800MHz PowerPC G4 iMac using 10.2.8. Main applications are Photoshop v.7.0.1, Final Draft 6, and Office v.10.1.8. All important data is archived on three external OWC Mercury firewire drives. What is the most efficient, least problematic way to migrate? Or am I better off avoiding migration, installing latest Intel-friendly Photoshop, Office, and Final Draft software, and dragging select image files, and documents from external drives to new desktop? Also, how can I easily transfer my old iTunes/iPhoto/iMovie libraries over to new iMac from external drives without doing a migration? Thanks!
iMac G4 Flat Panel 15" Mac OS X (10.2.x)May I recommend familiarizing yourself with Kappy's migrating advice;
A Basic Guide for Migrating to Intel-Macs
PS - the 24" iMac Intel is a Core 2 Duo. -
Compatible HDD for a 15.4-inch: 2.16GHz (MA609LL) MBP?
Hello folks,
Just wanted to check if this HDD would be usable in my 15.4"2.16GHz (MA609LL)MBP?
I currently have a 120Gb, and have just successfully upped the memory to the 3Gb max, but would like a 500Gb HDD to give me a good 2+ years head room on my MBP.
The main question is because it says SATA-300 and not just SATA? Sorry, but I've not upgraded or played with HDD's since IDE was the only type!
Just wanted to make sure it would be a good choice?!
Also - does the 7200 as opposed to the 5400 really make a positive difference in performance but not too much negative (heat, noise etc)
Thank you in advance
Alessandro
The specs for the drive are here:
Western Digital 500GB 2.5" Hard Drive SATAII 5400rpm 8MB Cache
WD5000BEVT
Hard drive: internal
Width: 7 cm
Depth: 10 cm
Height: 9.5 mm
Weight: 117 g
Form Factor: 2.5" x 1/8H
Capacity: 500 GB
Interface Type: Serial ATA-300
Buffer Size: 8 MB
Features: Shock Guard, WhisperDrive, SecurePark
Compliant Standards: S.M.A.R.T.
Drive Transfer Rate: 300 MBps (external) / 97 MBps (internal)
Track-to-Track Seek Time: 2 ms
Average Latency: 5.5 ms
Spindle Speed: 5400 rpm
Non-Recoverable Errors: 1 per 10^14
Start / Stop Cycles: 600,000
Interfaces: 1 x Serial ATA-300 - 7 pin Serial ATA
Compatible Bays: 1 x internal - 2.5" x 1/8H
Compliant Standards: RoHSHi Alessandro,
found just one User report on the WD in his MBP and he was very positive about it.
(Sadly it's in German: http://www.apfeltalk.de/forum/500gb-f-rs-t180801.html )
SATA connector for 2.5" HDs are the same, so no worry.
As for performance, look here: http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=307430
Regards
Stefan -
MBP 2.16GHZ or 2.33GHZ to run FCP
Hi, I am planning to purchase a MBP soon. The decision I have to take is to whether get 15.4" 2.16 Ghz upgraded to 2 GB Ram or get the 15.4" 2.33 Ghz with 2GB RAM. Cost is a major factor! I will be running FCP along with Aftereffects and other Adobe Packages on it.Some of the questions I have are :
Will FCP run smoothly on 2.16 upgraded 2 GB Ram system?
Will there be significant difference between the graphic support of 2.16 which is 128 mb ATI Radeon X1600 and the one offered in the 2.33 which is 256 mb ATI Radeon X1600?
Will adding an extra GB RAM on the 2.16 significantly alter the performance level? Any problems?
Will be grateful for your comments!Will FCP run smoothly on 2.16 upgraded 2 GB Ram system?
yes, FCP will run smoothly on a 2.16 machine
Will there be significant difference between the graphic support of 2.16 which is 128 mb ATI Radeon X1600 and the one offered in the 2.33 which is 256 mb ATI Radeon X1600?
Yes, the 256 MB ATI is the main advantage here. It gives you more real-time performance and when it comes to Motion, it becomes crucial since Motion relies mainly on the graphic card to perform it's magic.
Will adding an extra GB RAM on the 2.16 significantly alter the performance level? Any problems?
Yes, the more Ram you got into your system the better, but the 2GB chip is still too expensive. 2 GB Ram are enough if combined with the ATI 256 MB card. remember, more RAM means you can have more programs opened at the same time without affecting the performance of your machine. it won't affect the rendering speed at all, The CPU is responsible for that.
Résumé: CPU = speed / Graphic Card = real-time performance / RAM = more applications can be opened at the same time. -
Why not buy? 2.16GHz CoreDuo MacBook Pro
I currently use a 17-inch G4 1.33GHz PowerBook and am ready for an upgrade. I'm considering to a new Core Duo machine. My uses are modest page layout (Quark Xpress) light photo editing (Photoshop) and presentations (PowerPoint). The ability to run Windows applications directly (With Parallels) is very important; moderate travel use and desktop replacement are the other criteria. There is currently what appears to be a screaming good deal from several of the mail-order houses ($1700 after rebates) on the original 17-inch 2.16GHz MacBook Pro. This is the version that came before todays Core 2 Duo machines and will obviously be slower and less capable. But saving a grand is attractive. Is there any compelling reason NOT to go for the Core Duo machine? Will it be unable to run applications that are foeseeable? Will it be an unloved technical orphan? Why might I regret the purchase?
Thanks for all advice.
PowerBook 17" Mac OS X (10.3.9)Tony is right, BUT to be more specific the 15in Core2Dues include both Firewire 800 and 400, where as the 15in CoreDuo had just firewire 400. As for the 17in CoreDuo (the one Aces is looking at) that did have firewire 800 adn 400...
I want to also add that the programs you listed you work with are questionable to me. I mean this in regards to their native processor language, those programs are written for PowerPC chips. I am not sure if you are familiar so please let me briefly explain (I, as well as others can go into more detail if needed). Anyways, as you know, the new Apple computers such as the MBP have intel processors. Meaning the entire chip architechture is different then that of the G3, G4, G5 (all were PowerPC chips). So although Apple rewrote the Operating system to work for the new intel chips, many software vendors, such as the programs you listed (Photoshop, Powerpoint, etc...) have yet to be rewritten. Therefore it theory they would not work at all! But of course Apple needed to do something about this compatability issue or else consumers would not buy the new intel processors.
So Apple created something called Rosetta. Rosetta is an emulator that runs in the background and is always ready to translate PowerPC programs to work on the new intel platform. So, if you had your new MBP and launched photoshop, it would launch like normal. But underneath, Rosetta is enabling this PowerPC program to work on the intel. The problem with this is: a signifigant performance hit. If you ever ran Virtual PC on your powerbook to use windows, you know how slow it can be.
My point in telling you this is that software vendors, such as Adobe, are working to create intel versions of their software so that no Rosetta (thus performance hits) will occur. And since Photoshop and others are still off in the distance, like this coming spring/summer Q2-Q3, I would say why not keep using your Powerbook and wait to upgrade until every program you want to use properly works with intel. By then, you can also probably get the current Core2Due MBP for a steal. -
How much MBs of "SDRAM" do i need? Also, differnece between 2.16GHz?
To do photo editing, VERY MILD video editing, and some 3D gaming (but not HARDCORE 24/7) how much MBs of SDRAM do i need? Are the 128MB (or some near amount) of SDRAm enough???
Q2::::
What is the difference between 2.16GHz and 2.33GHz?
What can i do with the 2.33 that i cant do with the "2.16"?
I WILL RATE GOOD ANSWERS, GO!Rendering video does not use the video card since those are not done in real time, so improved video card will not improve video rendering for large processes (although it might help display them).
The difference between 2.33 and 2.16 is almost unnoticeable and there's nothing you can do with one you cant do with the other. They've been making chips for 30 years with slight differences like this and the best 'bang for your buck' is almost always the lower speed, the fastest is more for computer addicts to always want the best regardless of whether they can use it. -
Which one has the better GFX card? x1600 w/ 256MB ram or 7600 GT w/ 256MB ram?
I will be playing games and doing some 3D modeling/animation with it and I want the best performance in Gaming. (Battlefield 2/2142 and Crysis once it comes out)
Thanks in Advance!iMac Graphics Performance
Up to 2.3x faster than 20-inch iMac(1).
Quake 4
TimeDemo frames per second.
NVIDIA GeForce 7600 GT (24-inch iMac)
70fps
NVIDIA GeForce 7300 GT (24-inch iMac)
47fps
ATI Radeon X1600 (20-inch iMac)
30fps
Doom 3
TimeDemo frames per second.
NVIDIA GeForce 7600 GT (24-inch iMac)
100fps
NVIDIA GeForce 7300 GT (24-inch iMac)
76fps
ATI Radeon X1600 (20-inch iMac)
47fps
Testing conducted by Apple in August 2006 using preproduction 24-inch iMac units with 2.33GHz Intel Core 2 Duo processors and 20-inch iMac units with 2.16GHz Intel Core 2 Duo processors. All systems were configured with 1 gigabyte of RAM. The NVIDIA GeForce 7600 GT card had 256MB SDRAM, the NVIDIA GeForce 7300 GT card had 128MB SDRAM, and the ATI Radeon X1600 card had 128MB SDRAM. -
MacBook Pro Battery bulging after 10.6.8 upgrade
I have a MacBook Pro Core Duo 17-inch: 2.16GHz (MA092LL/A), purchased in May 2006. It has been a superb performer. I ran Tiger (10.4.11) on the machine until recently, when I upgraded to Snow Leopard (10.6.8). I usually run the machine on the power supply, but the battery has never had any problems. I had the full 3-year AppleCare warranty on the machine, but obviously that has expired.
Today I noticed that the battery (A1189) was bulging. I hadn't used the machine for several days. I've probably used it for a total of 4 hours since I installed 10.6.8...and all of that usage was with the power supply connected.
I removed the battery and inspected it. The cover plate (with the battery check switch and LEDs) was separating from the body, obviously being pushed up by expanding innards. All 5 LEDs lit up when I pressed the battery check switch, so I replaced the battery and booted the machine (power supply attached). The battery indicator in the menu bar showed that the battery had 100% charge. I usually run the machine with an external Apple keyboard and mouse. Within a few minutes I was unable to use the mouse. The pressure from the expanding battery was locking the trackpad button and disabling all mouse click functions.
I released the battery locks; it wasn't easy due to the pressure caused by the bulging battery. That relieved the pressure on the trackpad, after which the mouse (and trackpad button) worked normally.
Unfortunately, I can't check the battery info in System Profiler; installing the battery locks the trackpad button and disables all mouse functions. However, my usage of the machine has been light, and I've mostly run it with the power supply attached. I have deliberately run the battery down to zero to calibrate it a few times per Apple's instructions, but since the vast majority of my usage has been on the power supply, battery performance has never been an issue. In the few dozen times when I've run the machine on battery power, it worked fine. I would estimate that the battery has used significantly less than half of its available charge cycles. It's obviously still holding a charge.
I've seen a number of posts here in Apple Discussions implying that Snow Leopard 10.6.8 might be causing some problems with MacBook Pro batteries. All my software is up to date. I understand that batteries don't last forever, but the fact that the battery is self-destructing within a few usage hours after I upgraded to 10.6.8 causes me to suspect that this isn't just a battery problem. I don't want to replace the battery and have it self-destruct again if there's a system power management problem.
Can anyone provide any suggestions or information on this issue?
Thanks!stevekn:
After the same thing happened to me, I spent a great deal of time researching this issue. When I wrote the original post in this thread, I was asking whether there was a causal link between my upgrade to OS X 10.6.8 and the bulging battery problem. From the standpoint of the system itself and its ability to manage the battery functions, I'm now convinced that no such problem exists. Similarly, I'm convinced that there is no intrinsic defect in the battery itself...well, except to the extent that I'm about to describe.
All batteries have physical limitations. Among them, operating temperature is perhaps one of the most critical. It's no secret that what used to be called "laptops" are now called "notebook computers" because they get so hot during usage that you can't hold them on your lap—especially when the CPU is working hard for extended time periods. Applied to the MacBook Pro, that means one of the most stressful usage modes for its battery is the condition wherein the machine runs hot for a long time.
My MacBook Pro experienced exactly that condition during my recent system upgrade, in which I had to install Leopard as an intermediate step in order to be able to install Snow Leopard. I suspect that it was the Leopard install that dealt the death blow to the battery. It required lots of CPU usage for a long time, and the battery got very hot in the process. (Of course, it was running on the power supply at the time—which is advisable for a system upgrade.)
During the Leopard install, I checked the machine. That's when I discovered how hot the the machine had become. I had never observed the MacBook Pro getting that hot during any previous usage. I put a couple of heat sinks under it and elevated the machine, but I now believe that by then it was too late.
It's my opinion that the battery simply couldn't tolerate that kind of heat. Shortly thereafter, the two center cells started growing, with the resultant trackpad symptom revealing the problem...and by now you probably know what happens after that. The bulging indicates internal damage to the cells, in which the chemical compounds interact in such a way that causes the cells to expand.
In the case of my battery, I had set it aside and then had forgotten about it while I researched a replacement battery. When I found the damaged battery several weeks later, it no longer looked like the battery in your photos, with some separation of the battery case and cover. I discovered that the damaged cells had continued to expand slowly in the interim, eventually forcing the battery case completely apart. I suspect that if you observe your damaged battery over time, you'll find that the damaged cells continue to expand in the same way.
That's typical behavior for damaged cells, so in that sense, it's "normal". Whether it's "normal" for the cells to become damaged in the first place is more difficult to say, but I suppose that it depends on the kind of usage the battery gets. In my case, I ran the machine with the power supply attached most of the time, I never made it work very hard, and I even used a small cooling fan when I ran the machine outdoors in hot weather. I suspect that's why I got over 5 years of use out of the battery.
But nothing lasts forever, and that aging battery was seriously stressed by the Leopard installation. I'm now convinced that it was its undoing. If there's a lesson to take away from this, it's probably that heat kills batteries. Eventually, the battery will die a peaceful death by exhausting its own ability to hold a charge, but until then you can reduce the chance that it will die violently in the battle of the bulge by keeping it as cool as possible -
Film Student Needs A Lot Of Help!
Okay, first of all, let it be known that I am a complete newb. Also, I may sound ignorant as there are several other "Camera Help" posts, so I am sorry for that; however, this topic is fairly specific. Any help/recommendations are welcome.
I have not bought a camera (I'm looking for a MiniDV digital camera that produces film-like quality video) OR a laptop computer.
Computer I am looking at: MacBook Pro 17-inch 2.16Ghz Intel Core Duo.
Camera(s) I am looking at:
Panasonic AG-DVX100B Mini-DV Cinema Camcorder
http://www.prestigecamera.com/product~id~psagdvx100b~showmore~showmore.htm
OR
Sony DCRVX2000 MiniDV Digital Camcorder
http://www.digitalsaver.com/stores.asp?productid=DCRVX2000
I have no idea whether this is a good combination and whether they are compatable.
Also, I am going to be a film student this fall, and I am wondering if the MacBook Pro 17" 2.16 GHz is going to be suffecient for me (I have heard that Macs are the way to go for video/film editing).
ANY INFO/HELP/RECOMMENDATIONS AT ALL ARE GREATLY APPRECIATED.
Thank You.
::Rufio::funny, I do have a very different opinion… ;-)
* iMovie does NOT handle NTSC/PAL footage in progressive mode… you are able to import such stuff, but adding a disolve or a title - swoosh, THAT part is interlaced… (to my knowledge, … maybe Karl/Matti can give of some insight...)
=> investment into FCPro...
* I do like the new überMac… but whatfor, concerning movie making? … probably a hasty MTV producer needs tons of effects rendered faster then light… but as a student, I would invest more in other things (good point about mics) .
should I mention, my ol' friend, my G3/500 (that's Mega, not GigaHz) iBook does editing with iMovie....?
* HDcameras are interesting, in case you want to transfer video => 35mm film, because of higher res
I would …
* look for an old G4/5/dual/quad, incl. a superdrive , add 2GB RAM, screw in 2x 250GB HDs, get another firewire case for another, min. 250GB drive
* iMovie is nice for me, the average Daddy-does-movies guy, but as a film student, I would immediately jump into the cold pond and grab FCE/P…
* I worked once a project with the VX1000 (… yepp, a while ago, last century…) - an outstanding camera to its time, one of the first 3ccd'er, used in many broadcast projects, excellent pic quality; get a pointer mic, get a (few) wireless lavalier (+ext. hardware mixer)
* invest in software: FCE/P, PhotoshopElements (video is RGB only), think about AfterEffects, think about any 3/4D app, Maya has a learner edition…
iMovie is fun, you learn the basic editing rules of Sergej Eisenstein with it...
and: I like the attitude, …a MiniDV digital camera that produces film-like quality video… -
Changing administrator user name or short name in accounts, OS upgrade
I just inherited an older MacBook Pro. (15-inch, 2.16GHz Intel Core Duo, OSX 10.4.11).
I was able to change most account info, however former user's short name still appears as the short name in adm account and in the home page sidebar. How can I change this? (I understand there is a third party utility -- Change Short Name -- that claims to easily do this, but I'm reluctant to use any third party app if there is a Apple-endorsed way to accomplish the task.)
Do I need to set up a new administrator account on the computer in order to delete his info?
Also, eventually, I need to delete a lot of programs and files from computer. Bloated. My first thought is to simply do a clean reinstall since there's really nothing on the computer that I need. (However the original install discs were lost in a move, and I'll need to contact Apple for replacement.) I've read post advising against this approach because of the number of updates needed and due to uncited problems. Has anyone experienced any problems with this approach on this model -- before I purchase old install discs.
Is better option to purchase Snow Leopard. I have it installed on Mac Pro at work. I like it and have not experienced any problems. Anyone experience problems with SL on this model of MBP.
Thanks in advance for the help.[Adding a new user account to your computer|http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?path=Mac/10.4/en/mh168.html] You just need to make sure that the new account is set to be an administrator account. Then you log into the new account and remove the old account from there. There shouldn't be any implications to doing this but it is always a good idea to make sure you have a fully bootable (cloned) backup before doing modifications.
As mentioned before, ideally you should just wipe wipe the drive and start afresh. This ensures any corrupt files, or hidden files, are removed. However, you will need the installer disc to do this. Since you no longer have the Tiger one it might be worth just going for Snow Leopard. However, one advantage to getting replacement original discs from Apple is they contain special software for diagnosing problems on your specific model computer that isn't in a retail set of discs.
Cloning And Backup Tools
A bootable clone is an exact copy of your drive which is capable of booting your computer. Making a copy of your computer which is capable of actually starting the computer requires special copying procedures. Some people just back up data files but if you have problems you have to reinstall all your operating system and all your applications. With a bootable clone you just start up from the backup drive and clone back everything.
To copy files from one hard drive to another hard drive you can use:
[CarbonCopy Cloner|http://www.bombich.com/software/ccc.html] (donationware)
[SuperDuper|http://www.shirt-pocket.com/SuperDuper/SuperDuperDescription.html] (shareware)
[IBackup|http://www.grapefruit.ch/iBackup/index.html] (free)
The Restore function of Disk Utility included in OS X. [Kappy's directions|http://discussions.apple.com/message.jspa?messageID=8799711#8799711]
[Tri-Backup (commercial)|http://www.tri-edre.com/english/tribackup.html] (payware)
[Silverkeeper|http://www.lacie.com/silverkeeper> (free) - version 2 has some issues (references: [1|http://www.macintouch.com/readerreports/backup/index.html#d12jan2009],
[2|http://www.macintouch.com/readerreports/backup/index.html#d13jan2009]) and it is recommended Tiger users stick with 1.1.4.
[Kappy's Backup Software Recommendations|http://discussions.apple.com/message.jspa?messageID=9065665#906 5665]
[Overview of Mac OS X Backup Programs|http://8help.osu.edu/1247.html] -
Built-In iSight NOT RECOGNIZED after EFI Update 1.1
After updating to EFI 1.1 on my iMac 20 Inch (2,16Ghz) the built-in iSight-Cam is not
working anymore. It´s not showing up in the system profiler > USB Devices.
I bought the iMac last week, switched it on, the cam took a picture on the user account creation,
I applied the EFI-Update and OSX 10.4.8. After that the cam was gone.
I tried everything from resetting SMC, PRAM to reinstalling Combo-Update 10.4.8 ... NOTHING helped !
Any ideas or solutions ???
P.S.: Sorry for my crappy English, I´m writing from Germany !Here´s a report from MacFixIt.com about this problem:
http://www.macfixit.com/article.php?story=20061211231332862
Built-in iSight not recognized Some users have reported loss of their built-in iSights after applying the iMac EFI Firmware Update 1.1. In some cases, this issue can be resolved by resetting the SMC (system management controller) using this process:
1. From the Apple menu, choose Shut Down (or if the computer is not responding, hold the power button until it turns off).
2. Unplug all cables from the computer, including the power cord and any display cables.
3. Wait at least 15 seconds.
4. Plug the power cord back in, making sure the power button is not being pressed at the time. Then reconnect your keyboard and mouse to the computer.
5. Press the power button on the back to start up your computer.
Resetting PRAM can solve a variety of issues As mentioned in our coverage of recent EFI Firmware updates issued for other Macs, a number of potentially serious issues apparent after applying this EFI Firmware Update can be resolved by simply resetting PRAM/NVRAM via the following process:
Shut down your Mac, then start it back up while immediately holding the following keys: Command, Option, P and R. Hold the keys down until the computer restarts and you hear the startup sound for the third time.
This workaround is a good first course of action before exploring more complex fixes. It should also be attempted if your system cannot properly startup after applying the update. -
Plz help me with the compaitble ram module
hey
i have a problem getting the RIGHT ram module. i got a MacBook Pro 15.4-inch 2.16GHz Core 2
Duo (MA609LL/A)
i wanna 2g ram. the one i bought (2GB SODIMM LOW DDR2 PC5300 667MHZ)worked for 40 days and then died. so i dunno what it is id need to buy.
here's what the vendor had to say in reponse,
+At first glance , I thought that memory was just bad and regular exchange+
+would work . But after reading one post online, I contacted manufacturer+
support.
+This is unique scenario for you. You do need LOW density memory module for+
+Apple MacBook Pro 2.16GHz Intel Core 2 Duo (15.4-inch) Laptop, but your System+
+manufacturer is picky. What they need is not same spec as we have advertised.+
+Their requirement is slightly different and there is cost difference.+
+These are two Options for you+
+Option 1 : Refund
+Option 2 : Upgrade+
+Option 2A : Memory upgrade from OEM manufacture. We have purchased from them+
+and they are reliable. Price difference is low and it is what you need without+
+spending bunch with major manufacturer. Cost difference is $ 17.50+
+Option 2B : Memory upgrade from Major manufacturer as specifically recommended+
+by Manufacturer.. Price difference is high but then you know it is what you+
+have been asked by manufacturer to have . Cost difference is $ 18.50+
+Thank you+Crucial is 1000x better and more reliable than some random seller on Ebay. I wouldn't buy RAM from Ebay, especially when you can get the same thing for $1.00 more from a much more reputable seller.
If you have 1GB of RAM now, an upgrade to 2GB will make a big difference. I've enclosed links below to single 2GB chips that will be compatible with your MBP from both Crucial and OWC.
CRUCIAL
OWC
You can decide which you like better, they are both $48.99 I believe.
same thing to me, except for the brand name, i guess.
The brand name is relatively important with RAM. Macs are selective about good quality RAM; dodgy RAM from just any random seller on Ebay may not work, as you found out. With either of these resellers, you also get a lifetime warranty. Anyone on these forums will tell you that they will stand firmly behind their product if it ever fails. Ever. You can't get any better than that.
doesn't apple make one one of these? an apple brand?
No. Apple uses third-party RAM in all of its machines. Apple does not make its own brand of RAM.
--Travis -
Ok this might turn into a bragging contest but mostly I'm looking into an idea of what sort of computing power we need to run our iCal server.
Currently it's this:
Mac Mini 1.5GHz Intel Core Solo
2GB RAM
OS X 10.5.4 Server w 10 clients
I have 52 users (iCal/Sunbird) currently (but only 6 connect at the moment) and want enough oomph to expand to as many as 75 users.
Right now the CPU gets pinned with Python taking up around 90% of the processing time at around 6 users. Initially the problem was that everyone (well, about 10 Mac users) attempted to sign on at once and the iCal clients all timed out since the server couldn't respond within 120 seconds. So we scaled back and overnight the 3 users who left their computers on and the 3 more whom I added one by one were able to get their Calendars synced. Going to 8 or more users however and clients start timing out again on a regular basis.
While I'm looking into an upgrade for the Mini to either a 2.0GHz, 2.16GHz, or 2.33GHz Core 2 Duo CPU (which I'll have to use a tool to manually set the fans to cool it off), I'm thinking this will likely still not be enough processing power.
An XServe (2x2.8GHz Quad Core w 2GB RAM and Unlimited Client Server - $3100) seems like overkill (I've been told I can purchase something new if necessary) and we do have a spare PowerPC G5 Dual 1.8GHz Mac which could also work. I'd prefer to not purchase an iMac (which was suggested) or a Mac Pro (slightly cheaper) if at all avoidable.
Message was edited by: Dan Brown8I would suggest troubleshooting the CPU getting pinned as a support issue. We run a Core Duo (solo) 2GhZ iMac in a similar environment with no problems. Are you authenticating locally, or connecting to another directory?
-
PC guy look for iMac w/ FCE info
I have been researching FCE/HD on the 'net and spent the afternoon at the local Mac store playing with 24" iMac and iMovie & iDVD (they did not have a machine with FCE/HD on display) This was the first time I had ever touched a Mac. I have most of my questions answered but am looking for some unbiased input on three iMac options. Specifically I am trying to decide if cost is justified on the following three options:
1) 2.16Ghz v 2.33Ghz processor speed; $250 difference
2) 1gb v 2gb memory; $175 difference
3) 128mb v 256mb video card; $125 difference
I already have a house full of PCs so I will be adding the iMac to my collection and my intent is to have it used solely for video editing/authoring.
thanks for any advice you can give.
T1) ... I wouldn't care for 200MHz more...
2) ... more is better..
3) ... has a Mac a video card...? , as said above, for gamers ...
but...:
you need lotsof harddrive space.. add as much as you can afford.. probably, an external, firewire connected one offers a better price/GB ratio... BEFORE usage, use Apple's DiskUtility to format to "MacOsExtended".. to avoid any trouble..
.. and if you like to 'waste' some money, add this to your FCE workstation:
Contour ShuttleXPress
50$ in the apple.store ... adds that "pro"-feeling ...
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