24" iMac issues...Please advise!

I have had a 24" iMac for about a month now. During that time, I have been experiencing some strange behaviour with the machine.
Firstly, it does suffer from the much discussed "hum" from the display, but I can deal with that. What has been much more irritating to me is that it sometimes spins up a fan to very high RPM for no apparent reason. The noise seems to originate from just behind the left side of the screen, which makes me believe it is related to the video card or hard drive.
What is irritating about this is that the fan typically spins up when waking from sleep, but doesn't turn back off, whether you are using the computer or just letting it sit idle. The fan still spins at the same speed no matter what you do or don't do. The fan stops spinning if you turn off the computer, but it resumes again on startup. However, if the computer is put to sleep for an extended period of time, it may or may not happen at waking. This is strange, because on the occassions that it doesn't run, I can do things as intensive as video work and gaming and it will never come on, nor will it display any artifacts on the screen to indicate overheating. Clearly, it is not a normal spin up that is happening. It is loud enough to lay down some serious noise through the built in microphone.
I'm not sure if it is related or not, but sometimes the computer will not sleep...putting the monitor to sleep, but never spinning down the hard drive. I have also put it to sleep before, only to find it had awakened on it's own.
Is this a logic board issue, or a need for a PRAM reset or some other function. Will a 10.4.8 upgrade help with this? I live a looonnnngggg way from an Apple store and really don't want to make a bunch of trips that aren't really necessary.

You are experiencing what are known as "dead pixels". Unfortunately, the LCD manufacturing process is less than perfect, and a certain number of "stuck" or "dead" pixels is considered acceptable. Sometimes, if there are enough of these pixels, Apple will replace your display. I understand that there must be over 8, and they must be obtrusive.
Take heart, though, as there are some things you can attempt to do on your own to fix the problem. Try this link for steps on how to get your stuck pixels back: http://www.wikihow.com/Fix-a-Stuck-Pixel-on-an-LCD-Monitor
24" iMac Mac OS X (10.4.7)

Similar Messages

I purchased Adobe Creative Ste 5.5 Master Collection for windows for my college student daughter in '12 and she would like to install in on her iMac. Please advise on the process. Software has not been used yet.

I purchased Adobe Creative Ste 5.5 Master Collection for windows for my college student daughter in '12 and she would like to install in on her iMac. Please advise on the process. Software has not been used yet.

you need to exchange your win cs5.5 for mac cs5.5.
unfortunately, adobe only offers that for cs6, Order product | Platform, language swap

Keynote update to 6.1 Issue - Please Advise

App Store shows Keynote is available to update to 6.1 (I am currently running 6.01). However, when I select update I keep getting a warning stating "An error has occurred". (An included explanation would be nice.)
I did notice that it appears as if the update may be in process? (See pic below). Not sure. I do know I can open both versions of Keynote: '09 v 5.3 & 6.01
Not sure what to do.
Please advise.
This is on my Mac Mini running Mavericks 10.9.1

I also got an error in updating to keynote 6.1. in update tab, it shows the following, u can see that I have updated Numbers successfully.
when i press the update button, finally an error box appears saying the following
when i switches to purchase tab, repeat the update for keynote
after click update button, the following happens
how can u do?

Really Wierd!! IMAC 24inch please advise

I have no idea what just happend!!??
im hoping someone can give me some insight on this one please!!
i was just using my Imac when my BT mighty mouse geeked out.
everytime i would click it acted as a right click....after numerous clicks the screen then magnified at about 500 percent!!
and i was able to float around the whole screen by moving my mouse??
as if i captured a pic of my desktop and also my web pages....
the only way i got it back to normall was to do a restart!!
my question is this,
1.was this a feature i triggered by mistake?
or was this a glitch??
im really freaked out about this as im not sure what to make of it....
any advise would be greatlly appreciated.......

If you press the ctrl key and use the scroll ball it will zoom in and out of the screen.
Hope that helps.
Ryan

Calibration of 24" iMac(white) please advise

Hi,
We recently purchased a 24" iMac(white, late 2006), we were lucky enough to find one, I'd read negative things about the new Alu iMacs and when my wife(a photograhper) saw one in the store she said "no way" so the previous was a good choice. It seems the one we found was the last one in the city, nobody else had one in stock. I suspect Apple are pushing the "Creative Profesionals" towards the MacBook Pros and Mac Pros with ACDs hence the changes but that's just my opinion...
Anyway here's the thing, have been trying to calibrate it. I'll try to explain what it is I've been doing as a series of steps so it's easy to digest
1. We have an eye-one display 2(now X-rite "i1") with the software updates so it works fine in Intel Mac.
2. I had been browsing this and other forums and discovered that when calibrating I should specify a native white point or 6500K(for inkjet), gamma 2.2 and a luminance of 120.
3. When using the i1 software I selected LCD and then the advanced mode. When it gets to the select white point there's an option for presets or red, green and blue. The latter I cannot do as there are no such controls so I select the presets, click next, it shows the target as 6500K but the actual was 7000K. When I try the RGB presets as a test it shows the blue as being too high(7000K).
4. When specifying the target luminance I couldn't get the brightness below 145 so I had to use the "shades" software to get it to 120. That allows the profile process to complete correctly but what I don't understand is once the profile is complete do I leave the shades running(without touching the slider) and not touch the OS X brightness control or turn off the shades and leave the OS X brightness control setting where it is? Can someone please clarify/explain this?
5. I then come across the "coloreyes" software which supposedly is the best of them all so I download the demo(have 4 trys remaining). The implementation of this is very different from other apps I've seen but there's lots of info.
6. Coloreyes has this "Apple Monitor" preset which I tried but then I read in this forum that others had used the LCD Brightness preset instead, is that "LCD Brightess/Gain"(with iMac like icon) or "LCD Brightness"(with laptop like icon)??
7. Coloreyes has gamma of 1.8, 2.2 and L*, should I use this L* for a 24" white iMac late 2006?
8. Coloreyes has a pre-calibraton brightness checker, I should place the OS X brightness slider in the middle(for example) start the process and use the keyboard controls until the brightness = 0 and then start the profiling?
9. The current profile started with brightness = 0, native white point, gamma L* and luminance 120. My wife says the photos look a little dark. She doesn't use the screen as a final guide for her images more so the levels in photoshop and the final prints but I guess the onscreen results should be as accurate as possible. Am beginning to think the iMac(which was to be a much better option than a 24" Alu) was a bad idea, it's otherwise a lovely computer and she's very please with it.
If someone has an idea on this can you please reply with details in steps like above? Maybe it's an idea to paste my post and add commments or suggestions inline. I'm far from an expert on this subject, my knowledge is based on what I've found when searching google. It seems that opinions and experience vary quite a lot

Hi,
What do you mean exactly by "I found that for some reason I could not calibrate from the "apple monitor" setting at first." do you mean you couldn't specify native white point, luminance 120, gamma 2.2?
I'm assuming you did it this way(please correct me if I'm wrong as I more than likely am
1. You started with "LCD Brightness only"(native white point, luminance 120, gamma 2.2?) first, not "LCD Brightness/Gain" and setting the brightness to 0 prior to starting the profiling.
2. You then used that as your starting point(although profiling apps ignore the current profile when starting) choosing "Apple Monitor"(native white point, luminance 120, gamma 2.2?) without setting the brightness as that option doesn't specify it.
I'm assuming you specified the same settings twice?
Another thing that has me puzzled is how come when using an i1 with eye-one software for luminance 120 you have to push the OS X brightness slider all the way to the left and then use "Shades"(or equivalent) to decrease the brightness even further to reach 120 where as with an i1 and coloreyes you can specify luminance 120 and just use OS X brightness slider to reach the correct value? I'm assuming it's because coloreyes is a better app?
Sorry for all the questions, just trying to understand the process and find the best method/solution

First Mac Purchase - iMac i3 - Please Advise

Hello, I am very close to purchasing my first ever Mac, but I am unsure of which direction to take. I am debating between the iMac i3 - 21.5 inch base model with 8gb of ram, or the next model up. I know that the hard drive is double, the processor is a little bit faster, and the video card is better. I am hoping there are some Mac gurus who might help with some insight is this decision. I will be mainly using it for work, but also for some light gaming, nothing serious. Is the $250 worth the 3.20 i3, 1TB HD, and the better graphics card? Or, should I increase the ram on the base model from 4gb to 8gb? Any suggestions on above mentioned information or any other relevant information would be much appreciated, thanks.

Thank you all for your quick responses. As far as the first respons goes, I just do not know enough yet about the OSx applications, so I am really not sure yet what applications I may be using. However, I do edit/add new products to the web for the company I work for. It's primary used will be for work, but the web editing I do is nothing too crazy. Mainly just editing photos and writing the info in HTML.
In reference to the second response, that was the way I was leaning. I am unsure if I can convince my wife to go up to the i5 model though, ha. I do want to check out some games on I though, even though I have a ps3. I also may want to run Windows with the parallel program. I guess I'm just trying to make the most informed decision since I do not know a lot about the macs and which one is the best value.
The third response has almost convinced me now to go with the base model. The bottom line for me is $250 is not a huge deal, but $450(to go to the i5) is getting closer to being a big deal. To me, it seems like the faster processor and the graphics card are worth $250 and the hard drive is a bonus as well. I definitely liked the point of getting an external drive, but how much am I going to spend for a 500gb external drive? Will I be getting closer and closer to the original $250 difference I could have spent to go with the nicer model? Once again thank you for responding, and I hope to hear some more insightful thoughts to help me with my first Mac purchase, cheers.

Many Initial Issues - Please advise

I got two identical new MBP on Wed at the Apple store. I had Time Machine backups from two other older MBP that I used. I ran each of those on the new laptops. Since then, one has been perfect. The other has had many issues...
- Already one crash
- Insanely long start up times (currently trouble shooting this)
- The trackpad skips and freezes constantly
- The fans are nearly running at 100% all the time now. I think this has to do with start-up, but not sure.
I have run disk permission repair. I have clean cache files. I have run and cleaned out tons of other stuff, with no luck. SHortly, I'm going to do the P,R,Alt,Apple in just a min to see if that does anything.
Any other ideas? Anyone suggest I just take it back? I was told I have 3 days buyer's remorse with no fees and stuff. Is it possible I just have a lemon? I really do not want to spend the time on a clean install and testing for another day or two... that puts me over that 3 day limit, then I have to pay restocking fees, etc.

Thank you all for your insights. I stayed up until 6am last night (this morning) trouble shooting. After a few clean installs, restores, etc. I did a clean install, then restore, then an archive & install. That seems to have fixed the problem. The problems only manifested after my restore. But the last time I did an archive/install so all the system files are fresh and not from my TM restore. When using a TM backup, there is an option to not copy over your system/library files, unfortunately this option was checked and grayed out, so I didn't have the option NOT to install those files.
I do still have one whole day. I'm putting it through it's paces today, and if there's any problems at all, I will return it and hopefully just get a new one right there.
Thank you all again. If anyone has specific insight into why this happens, I would still like your input.

HT4236 Syncing photos using iTunes in windows revealed this error message "iPad Jayvee cannot be synced because it cannot be read from or written to ." Please advise asap how to resolve the issue. Thanks!

Please advise how to resolve error message - cannot be synced because it cannot be read from or written to.

Hello Janet,
I would recommend this article named 'Disk cannot be read from or written to' when syncing iPod or 'Firmware update failure' error when updating or restoring iPod found here http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1207
Outdated operating system software
Make sure you have the latest updates for your operating system, which may include improvements for device connections. For example, many USB and FireWire improvements have been included in Windows Service Packs.Check for Mac OS X downloads. Check for Windows updates.
Computer needs updates
Make sure you have the latest updates available for your specific computer model (or components for home-built PCs). These are usually available for download on the support website for the maker of the PC (or component). Many USB updates are listed as "Intel chipset" or just "chipset" updates on PC manufacturer's support and download websites.
Software interference
Some software can interfere with iTunes, making it unable to write files to your iPod. Think about what software you have installed, and try disabling any add-ons that might be interfering with iTunes. Check your suspected software's documentation or contact the software maker if you need assistance with disabling the application. Out-of-date or incorrectly configured security software frequently causes this issue. See these steps for identifying and troubleshooting third-party security software.
Damaged files
If one of your music files or photos is damaged, iTunes may display one of these errors when transferring that file to the iPod. If you identify a file that is causing the error, try deleting that file and reimporting it from a backup file or from the original source. You may be able to repair files by repairing the disk (see the solutions in the next section).
Unregistered .dll files (Windows)
Malware or other software may cause an issue with the digital signing of Windows XP drivers. First try restoringthe iPod using the latest version of iTunes.. If you are unable to restore it or the symptom reappears, follow the steps in this document.
Damaged disk structure
These errors can also appear if the format of your computer's hard drive or your iPod disk is damaged.
To repair your computer's hard disk—Mac OS X users, read this article for instructions. Windows users, search the Help system in Windows for chkdsk to get more information on checking and repairing the disk structure.
To repair an iPod disk—Restore the iPod or iPod shuffle using the latest version of iTunes.
Warning: Be sure to back up your data before restoring an iPod. The restore process cannot be undone. All of your songs and files will be deleted.
Corrupt iPod photo Cache
If you're getting the error when transferring photos to an iPod photo, try deleting the iPod photo Cache and then starting the photo sync again.
Lost connection
Make sure that the connections from your computer to the iPod are snug and do not wiggle or come loose during transfers. For example, if you use the wrong size dock for your iPod, it can put strain on the connectors and cause a bad connection. See these articles for more information:
Learn about iPod Universal Dock
iPod Dock: Specifications
Conflict with third-party hardware
Third-party USB or FireWire devices may also interfere with iTunes' ability to communicate with your iPod. Remove all USB and FireWire devices except the keyboard and mouse before reconnecting your iPod to the computer.
Bad hardware
Hardware failure or non-compliant hardware can cause these errors. This could be an issue with iPod hardware or with the cable or dock you're using, but more often it's an issue with the USB or FireWire card or interface in your computer. Some USB and FireWire interfaces just don't work very well. If you isolate the issue to the USB or FireWire interface in your computer, you may want to try a different port, get the computer serviced, or replace the card or interface with a better one.
If you isolate the issue to an Apple-supplied cable or dock, or the iPod itself, you can get it serviced here.
Take care,
Sterling

HT1768 I get a message "The file "iTunes Library.itl" cannot be read because it was created by a newer version of iTunes." Please advise what I need to do to get around this issue - at the moment iTunes wont open up!

I get a message "The file "iTunes Library.itl" cannot be read because it was created by a newer version of iTunes." Please advise what I need to do to get around this issue - at the moment iTunes wont open up!

Hi did you ever get a solution to this problem? Having the same issue myself!

IMac screen blue flashing tint - please advise

Please view the video of what the screen is doing because , well, just view it please, you will see.
http://www.islandsmoothiebeachtro.com/iMacScreen.avi - 17 mg avi
no I am not playing with any wires. and yes it does look pretty cool with the lighting, but something is wrong
It just started this evening when 4 hours before operation was working normally.
do not movie it, drop it, or what not, so you don't ask, it is one my my FCP editing iMacs.
did a techtool run, found nothing, even while it was happening.
PLEASE ADVISE as if it is a loose wire, a bad video card, or what?
planning to make an appointment with the genius bar for friday.

HI,
Boot from your install disc and run the Apple Hardware Test, instructions here.
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1509
And About the Apple Hardware Test
Make a Genius Bar reservation here.
Carolyn

I was alerted that by iMac Trackpad batteries were low and advised to replace. I did, and now my trackpad is not responding. Please advise.

I was alerted that by iMac Trackpad batteries were low and advised to replace. I did, and now my trackpad is not responding. Please advise.

Make absollutely sure the batteries are installed correctly.
+ Positive in first > Apple Wireless Keyboard, Mouse, and Trackpad: How to install batteries

I have a mac running iPhoto, please advise when I copy the photo to add to a document while creating a pictorial when it is pasted it turns black, I have tried many different methods to over come the issue but unsuccessful

My 6 month old Mac is using iPhoto. Please advise when I copy the photo from iPhoto to add to a word document while creating a pictorial artical as soon as it is pasted the picture it turns black, I have tried many different methods to over come the issue but unsuccessful. In the past the iPhoo was default for direct download from a card, This I have now changed but in the meantime there are photographs that I need to use. I understand window completly but still on the nursery steps with Mac.
Please advise Heather

As I said before I am reluctanct to delete and reinstall the iPhoto as I only have the one copy of the file i am using stored in iphoto file and I caint loose them.
All storage hardware and all computers will fail. Volumes will get corrupted. Mistakes will happen.
Please learn from our past mistakes and from our past data losses: please have and keep regular backups.
Either via Time Machine (which is marvelously transparent, and very easy), or backups created via some other mechanisms and tools. Old Toad recommends an external disk, and that's very effective. If this is a portable Mac, then Time Capsule devices are also very handy, as you don't have to remember to connect the backup device; so long as the Mac is within wireless range of the Time Capsule, backups will happen.
Time Machine backups can also be used to replace your files or even to upgrade to a new Mac, should your computer be lost or stolen, or should your computer or your storage fail.
If you have not already seen these, Mac Basics and Find Out How could be interesting.
As for your photos... I wouldn't expect this to be iPhoto and wouldn't go for an iPhoto reinstall as the first step, I'd tend to wonder if this is a bug or feature in Microsoft Word, or possibly a format incompatibility with what Office supports. iPhoto organizes and edits the photos that are stored in your ~/Pictures media directory. Try using iWork (if you have that) or some other tool (Apple Mail) that accepts and processes photos, and see if you can localize the problem. Depending on the image formats used, also see if exporting the picture from iWork into a jpeg-format picture — something other than the image format you're currently using with the Microsoft Office imports — works. (FWIW, I use iWork for reading and writing Microsoft Office documents as well as Pages and Keynote files, and have been using iPhoto with those and other tools for many years, and haven't encountered these blacked-out images.)

Hi , I suhail khan from india and i am user of iMac system 10,1.These days i am facing the sound enabling issue with my iMac system I am not able to hear sound in my iMac system.So kindly suggest me how to enable sound in my iMac . Please no the needful.

Hi , I suhail khan from india and i am user of iMac system 10,1.These days i am facing the sound enabling issue with my iMac system I am not able to hear sound in my iMac system.So kindly suggest me how to enable sound in my iMac . Please no the needful.

Take each of the following steps that you haven't already tried.
1. If you've recently plugged anything into the audio-out (headphone) port, plug and unplug it a couple of times.
2. From the menu bar, select
 ▹ System Preferences ▹ Sound ▹ Output
Check the settings. The internal speakers should be selected as the output device, the Mute box should not be checked, and the volume slider should be at least halfway to the right.
3. Look inside the headphone port. If a red light is coming from the port, the internal switch is stuck in the position for digital output. You may be able to free it by inserting and removing a headphone mini-stereo jack of the proper size.Inserting any kind of tool in the port may cause damage that won't be covered by your warranty.
4. Boot in safe mode by holding down the shift key at the startup chime. It will take much longer than usual. You don't have to log in; just reboot as usual (without holding any keys) when the login screen appears. (Note: If FileVault is enabled under OS X 10.7 or later, or if a firmware password is set, or if the boot volume is a software RAID, you can’t boot in safe mode.)
5. Reset the NVRAM.
6. Reset the SMC.
7. Reinstall OS X after backing up all data as a precaution. You won't need your backup unless something goes wrong.
8. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store.
Back up all data on the internal drive(s) before you hand over your computer to anyone. If privacy is a concern, erase the data partition(s) with the option to write zeros* (do this only if you have at least two complete, independent backups, and you know how to restore to bare metal from any of them.) Don’t erase the recovery partition, if present.
*An SSD doesn't need to be zeroed.

Anyone having issues with importing CR2 files into lightroom 5 as error message comes up saying "Some import operations were not performed". please advise what is a solution please

Urgent please
anyone having issues with importing CR2 files into lightroom 5 as error message comes up saying "Some import operations were not performed". please advise what is a solution please

Sounds like the folder Write permissions issue described here with a solution:
"Some import operations were not performed" from camera import

HT1338 For the past few days, I have not been able to read my incoming hotmail nor any of the emails in all my folders on my iMac. However, I can do so using other computers on Windows. Please advise what can be done.

For the past few days, I have not been able to read my incoming hotmail nor any of the emails in all my folders on my iMac. However, I can do so using other computers on Windows. Please advise what can be done.

For the past few days, I have not been able to read my incoming hotmail nor any of the emails in all my folders on my iMac. However, I can do so using other computers on Windows. Please advise what can be done.

After Transfer to new imac - seriel number invalid - Please Advise

I recently purchased a new imac for the use of video editing in Final Cut Studio. When I input the Serial number provided with my software I get a error stating it is an upgrade serial number and I am prompted to input the previous serial number. I also input the original serial number and I get a message stating that the serial number is invalid. Do I need to remove FCP from my previous computer in order to use it on my new computer? Please advise.

...for future's sake—there's no reason to start a brand new thread when you've already got one going on. Especially if you're going to simply copy-paste the text from this thread to begin the "new" one. You're spreading things out which is not the most efficient path to a remedy. That being said...
When you "uninstalled" FCP, how did you do it? Just throw the apps in the trash? Or use Digital Rebellion's FCS Remover?

24" iMac issues...Please advise!

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for