720p 24 Question

Ok, this is somewhat related to an earlier post that you all helped out with.
The footage arrived from a shoot last week.
The cameraman had the setting on the HVX as 720p 24.
When we injested the footage via import P2 the clips all show as 59.94 fps not 23.98.
Here is where it gets really strange...
when we import the footage into a 23.98 project the clip shows up as 59.94.
When we copy the clip from the 23.98 timeline and paste into a 29.97 the pasted clip now shows up as 23.98.
very confused!

FWIW, the problem was a setting in the firestore or an old firmware.

Similar Messages

720p question for existing owners

I was wondering what will happen if you try to export a 720/30p video instead of 720/24p. Will iTunes accept to upload it to the device, or will it bail out?
I know that the AppleTV supports up to 5Mbps 720/24p h.264 files. However, it is theoretically possible to export at 720/30p instead using a smaller bitrate (e.g. 4Mbps) and to still playback smoothly, because less bitrate means less data to decode and so it goes easier on the CPU. Problem is though, if iTunes does not even allow the user upload to the device such a 30p file, it's pretty limiting! You see, I have an HDV camcorder which shoots at 1080/60i and this means that the "right" exporting solution for 720p is 30 fps, not 24. If Apple has really restricted the ability to upload 720/30p videos from the get-go (without even taking bitrate into account), then people with HDV camcorders are screwed.
So, if someone has some time, please export a video to 720/30p instead of 720/24p **with 4mbps bitrate**, and please report back if iTunes allowed you to export it to the device, and if yes, does the device actually play the file smoothly or if at all?
Thank you for your time.

Sorry, I don't agree. When I shoot at 1080/60i, I need 30fps. If I wanted to export at the jerky, non-native IVTC 24fps, I would shoot that way. But I don't.
Your 720p/24fps movies are jerky because you have converted them from 30 fps not because 24 fps is jerky, the conversion you are undertaking is removing frames some software is better than others at this but none of it will ever make a good job of it.
If you want smooth 24 fps playback you need to shoot at 24 fps.
If your source is already 30 fps you need to convert it to 960 x 540 @ 30 fps and not 1280 x 720 @ 24 fps to make it compatible.
Incidentally, I've found that the tv seems to accept 720p/25fps even though this is outside of the specs.

Question: Apple tv vs Roku 2xs. I have 2009 Olivea LCD tv that has hdmi port and ?720p.

Question: Apple TV vs Roku 2xs:
I have a 2007 Olivea LCD tv that has 1 HDMI port and (?720p).
I also have a MacBookPro with OSX 10.7.5 Lion and Apple airport wireless.
Would the most recent Apple TV even be compatible with my older television model?
Or should I go with the Roku model which I hear works with older TVs and also gets amazon prime streaming along with netflix?
I could be missing out on advatages/ease of the Apple product synchronicity.

Thank you for your definitive input.
Now that I know that both are workable options, I want to look at
the advantages of ATV vs ROKU. I have the macbook pro, ipad and iphone
so am a great Apple fan.
Advantage of Apple is ease of ability to link photos and itunes to the TV n Get netflix.
However Roku has both Netflix and Amazon Prime options, but not the easy coordination
with my apple content. Hmm which way to go??
Any more thoughts/suggestions welcome.

Importing question, HD 1080 or 720P

I have been using iMovie 08 for a few projects, didn't like it. I have no choice since I got a new Sony HD tapeless camcorder. If I choose to use iMovie 08 to import and edit in iMovie 06, what project should I choose in iMovie 06? HD 1080 or 720P? I imported the movie using large 540 in iMovie 08. Thanks Alex

Why don't you just try them both, and then choose which one you like better?
I'd import into iM08 as 1080..
Why knock down the resolution to 960?..
Many people have said that importing into iM08 and iM09 knocks down the image quality anyway, saying that iM08 and iM09 throw away half the resolution lines.
But if you have QuickTime Pro (..the $29.99 upgrade is available from the QuickTime web page here..) you can set the resolution back to full by opening the video file with QuickTime (..you'll find your particular video clips in 'Movies'/iMovie Events..) and then setting the 'High Quality' flag by ticking the little box in the lower-right corner..
..Other people describe other ways of doing it.
Having Saved the Hi-Quality file, now open it, or import it, in iMovie HD.
I have no problem importing into iM08 or 09 and then using those same files within iMovie HD 6 so that I can use iMHD6's "fine tuning" capabilities ..i.e; its frame-accurate editing. I haven't yet tried the new "precision editing" available in iM09.

720p vs 1080i Simple question.

I shoot with the JVC 700U which captures in native 720p. I have been told I should shoot in 1080i by some folks. Some of my work is on cable, other on the web. If you have noticed other posts by me, my system has trouble with 720p and I am unable to figure out why. So...pros and cons 1080i vs 720p? Very little of my work is high end, mostly local stuff. I just would like some opinions from you guys. Stay native with 720 or change it up to 1080? Thanks for all of your help.
Best.
Tom

I have always been a big fan of 720p. Why? Two reasons, one, many of the 1080 formats, especially when they first came out, were anamorphic, which is a pain in butt to deal with. Second, 1080i is interlaced. Interlacing is so 1950s. Really? Do we still have to to cling to half century old technology? If you can do 1920x1080p30 then go for it, otherwise I don't see the point. Interlacing is a world of hurt for no benefit.

Upscaling question. 720p to 1080p

ok guys i never upscale because i normally always shoot at 1080p
but i have to upscale some 720p to 1080 now and whats the best way to do it - what software? im guessing its not a case of just importing 720p footage into a 1080p timeline and scaling it up? what software or plugin or settings in after effects do people use to keep the quality okay on upscaling?
cheers
Andy

RedGiant's Instant HD does a good job at upscaling. See http://www.redgiantsoftware.com/products/all/magic-bullet-instant-hd/

Multi-Room DVR Questions - switching to Fios

I am getting ready to make the switch to Verizon Fios and have lots of questions.
I am going to get a Multi-Room DVR and either 2 or 3 set-top boxes.
I have 4 tv's: A -Main (Living room) TV is STD-Def, B - Bedroom TV is Hi-Def 1080p, C - Bedroom TV is 720P, D - Other TV - STD Def .
1. Does it matter which TV I hook up the Multi-Room DVR to?
2. Can I record in STD-Def and then play back on the Hi-Def TV?
3. Can I record in Hi-Def and and then play back on the STD-Def TV?
4. Are the STB's the same for STD-Def and HD (in case I want to swich where I have the DVR)?
4a. If not, is ther a charge if I change the box from STD to HD?
5. Will I be able to watch any channels on a TV that has no STB or DVR?
6. What DVR functions are available on the STB's?
Play, Pause, FF, Rew? What about controlling the recording of shows?
9. Is there a "higher capacity" Multi-room DVR, and how do I get one?
7. What is the capacity of the multi-room DVR?
8. Can I add an external hard drive?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Regards,
Rich_L

Further qualifying a few items below ...
mphare wrote:
Additional Comment below
Anthony_VZ wrote:
1. Does it matter which TV I hook up the Multi-Room DVR to? No it does not.
2. Can I record in STD-Def and then play back on the Hi-Def TV? Yes
3. Can I record in Hi-Def and and then play back on the STD-Def TV? Yes but will be in a smaller box in the middle of the screen
4. Are the STB's the same for STD-Def and HD (in case I want to swich where I have the DVR)? Verizon only uses HD boxes now and will work with SD televisions. Verizon used to have SD boxes and last time I checked still had the basic SD terminal adapters -- these adapters do not support the guide or other expanding STB features including remote DVR access or on-Demand.
4a. If not, is ther a charge if I change the box from STD to HD? N/A
5. Will I be able to watch any channels on a TV that has no STB or DVR? If your TV has a QAM digital tuner you can watch the local stations only (channels 2-49)
6. What DVR functions are available on the STB's? You can pause and rewind live TV. You can set up a schedule to record all your favorite shows in advance so you don't have to set it back up every week. You can extend recording at the begining or end of show. You can set priority of shows incase there is a scheduling conflict. You can set a show to be protected so its only erased if you manually erase it. You can set how many episodes to keep. You can set whether to record either new episodes, repeats, or both. Pause and rewind live TV feature is on the DVR box only, not on the other STB's. You can pause and rewind DVR playback on these other boxes, but not live TV. Note also that you need to be in an area which has the newer IMG 1.9 to be able to setup recordings from remote STB's and/or extend a recording as these are new features in IMG 1.9.
9. Is there a "higher capacity" Multi-room DVR, and how do I get one? If you are not provided one at installation (depends if they are in stock or not) it can be ordered from out htttp://verizon.com/fiostvcentral website
It costs an additional $40 to order a 500 GB DVR if one is not provided at time of installation. I would hold out for one at that time so you don't have to pay the $40. You may be able to forgo the $40 upcharge if you can take your 160 GB DVR to a Verizon store and exchange it there (it they have the 500 GB DVR to exchange). I would ask for the 500GB DVR at installation and make sure they can provide it before accepting it.
7. What is the capacity of the multi-room DVR? 160gb for existing DVR 500gb for expanded DVR
8. Can I add an external hard drive? The set top boxes running IMG 1.9 have this capability. 1.9 is still in its initial stages of deployment and not in most areas.
I hope this answers your questions you had.

Black Macbook out to Sony Bravia Question

So I just bought a new Sony Bravia 22" LCD TV. I'm excited to use the TV as a monitor for my computer, or at least so that I can play back Hulu or other such videos on the TV. The TV supports VGA in as a "PC" input as well as 2 HDMI ports. I know I need to get an adapter for the mini DVI port on my Macbook, however I'm not sure whether to go the route of mini DVI to VGA or mini DVI to DVI with a DVI-HDMI cable to the computer. I know in both cases I will need a separate audio cable so that's not the issue. The TV says that it has a native 720p resolution. I think the highest VGA resolution supported by the TV is 1360x768, but the HDMI is higher I think. Thanks for your help

I also have a black macbook and I recently purchased a 42" Sony Bravia TV and I have a few questions...
So I think I need 3 things:
- the mini DVI to VGA cable
- the VGA to VGA cable (that will connect to my TV right? how long of a cable is useful?)
- another cable for the audio...
What do I need to get for the audio portion? Someone told me to get a 3.5mm AV RCA Cable with the red/white that connect to the ports on my TV and then the headphone jack on my laptop.
Advice? Thanks!

Choosing between 720p and 1080p on Mini connected to Sony HDTV (1920x1080)

I have a late 2009 Mac Mini and a SONY HDTV and had no difficulties at all in hooking them up. I just connected the Mini Display Port to DVI connector which ships with the MAC Mini to a Belkin DVI to HDMI cable (also available from Apple Store) and connected the HDMI to my TV. I switched on the TV, selected the correct HDMI input, then switched on the Mac Mini and could see the picture immediately. I was missing the menu bar at the top so went to SYSTEM PREFERENCES and then DISPLAYS and the OPTIONS tab, and unselected OVERSCAN, and that gave me a perfect picture (slightly smaller than full screen but perfectly adequate as far as I'm concerned).
By default my resoluton was set at 1080p (presumably the Mac detected that the native resolution of my TV is 1080p). The DISPLAYS box shows a number of resolution with a little TV screen icon beside them, as if suggesting those resolutions for use with the Sony. It shows 480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i and 1080p. There are also lots of others without TV icons beside them.
The only problem I found is that 1080p made it quite difficult to read text on my screen, even though it's not very far away from the sofa. My eyesight is very good but I couldn't read the screen comfortably when surfing the net or even when changing settings etc. I swiiched, therefore, to 720p and this produces a very comfortable size of text for using the MAC.
My question is whether it really makes such a big difference whether one chooses 720p or 1080p, as I really can't see much difference for playback of video from Hulu or other streaming websites. Even when I played a DVD movie from the Mac Mini superdrive, the difference in quality was hard to detect. I guess if I tried viewing Full 1080p HD material, there would be some difference, but how much of such material is available on the net anyway? I take it that switching between 720p and 1080p wouldn't cause any harm, if I chose to do so occasionally for watching any Full HD movies that I rip?
Look forward to hearing views!

Hi- I also picked up a mini a week ago, and have it hooked up to my Sony HDTV via HDMI, just as you. The same thing happened the first time I connected the mini to my tv- with overscan on, the top and bottom of the screen were cut off.
The solution is to pick up your Sony remote, go to the onscreen menus, and make sure that 'full pixels' option is selected. When you do, the screen will be absolutely perfectly aligned.
I mention this because while in overscan mode, I find that the Sony makes an absolutely beautiful screen, and text is quite easy to read, albeit a bit small.

Mixed Media: 720p 60 + DVCPRO 50

Hi all,
I've searched the forums looking to answer this question, and may have actually found the answer more than once but have now thoroughly confused myself into a corner, so I thought I should just post.
What would be the best method to work with 720p60 HD footage and DVCPRO 50 footage in the same timeline?
All media has already been captured; recapturing with a hardware/deck/camera-based downconvert is no longer an option. Final output is to an SD DVD, in both NTSC and PAL (for which I'll be using Natress' Standards Conversion).
I've been able to work with both formats in a variety of timelines, including Uncompressed 10-bit, DVCPRO 50 and so on, with each yielding slightly different results (letting FCP handle the rendering required). I'll be slowing down and reversing some clips, doing some desaturating, color correction, and adding grain here and there, so different combinations look better and worse depending on the sequence preset and the format of a particular clip, but none is consistently good for both formats.
I'm assuming the correct way to approach this is to standardize the formats between the two sources -- in this case I'm figuring the best option is to downconvert the HD to a friendly SD (like DVCPRO 50, for example).
Based on one of Shane Ross' posts I tried Media Manager, but I was given a warning that the frame rates didn't match and that I could either abort or preserve the framerate of the source (720p). Is the only other option a time- and drive space- costly conversion via Compressor?*
*Um, yeah, important note: I've already done a bunch of editing on this project, naively (perhaps) believing that I could go about downconverting later on, but I did this thinking that Media Manager could easily convert and replace or create a new project with the downconverted media.
Any advice would be extremely appreciated.
Did I mention my deadline is in two days?
2x2 GHz G5, 4GB RAM; 1.67 GHz 15" PB G4, 2GB RAM Mac OS X (10.4.7) SATA RAID; G-RAID (x3)

Hey Pat, thanks -- your post gets to the heart of my troubles. (Shane's does too, in the sense of technical specifics, e.g. please forgive any slightly misstated specs in what follows...)
The 16mm footage, which was originally 24 frames per second, was transferred to DVCPRO 50 (interlaced NTSC, 720x480, 29.97) before being captured (and it looks great). The few bits of DV were actually shot PAL (progressive) before being transfered to DV NTSC (interlaced), prior to capture (I had no say here, this is how I received the material -- which, by the way, looked pretty nasty).
The HD footage was shot 720p 60, which I'm understanding means 960x720, 'p' for 'progressive' and 60 frames per second. That last part has confused the heck out of me -- I know it's possible to shoot faster than NTSC's run of the mill 30fps (okay, 29.97), but for some reason I thought this was an unusual circumstance (as if it needed a special camera or tape stock or whatever). I also understand the potential benefits when it comes to shooting a higher frame rate, like if you're planning on doing speed changes (especially slow-mo), but am I wrong to think that 60fps is unusual?
Let me clarify a little. I know 29.97 is standard NTSC video, but according to the info within FCP (and in my bins), 720p 60 means 60 frames per second, not fields per second (which would indeed be 30 frames per second, or 29.97). If, however, the format was called '60i' this would mean that it was indeed 60 (or 59.98) fields per second, giving us 30 (or 29.97) frames per second. Please let me know if I've got this right.
Assuming that's correct, then the 720p 60 is never going to play nicely with the DVCPRO 50. Even if I take the clips that I want to slow down and change their speed in a native timeline (720p 60), those rendered files still won't look good back in the DVCPRO 50 timeline (progressive vs. interlaced, 59.98 fps vs. 29.97 fps). It would seem to me that the best way to deal with this is to take the 720p 60 footage, make the speed changes in a native timeline (BTW, which way: using the speed controls within FCP, or Twixtor, or some kind of Cinema Tools conversion taking advantage of the 60fps?), and then output or convert this clips somehow before placing them back into the non-native DVCPRO 50 timeline. Make sense?
My original hope was that the frame rate would be a minor concern, rendered nicely in the DVCPRO 50 timeline, and I was optimistic by how easily they seemed to mix together prior to making any speed changes. This hope was further dashed by the different results yielded by some of the film effects, like adding grain (which I now have a solution for: make all of my speed changes, finalize my edit, output a final version, then import that movie for applying additional effects, which will no longer vary according to the source footage specs, such as frame size and frame rate). I know it'll wind up being more complicated than this (for example, if I've got a cross dissolve between a 720p 60 clip and a 16mm clip (transferred to DVCPRO 50), applying a 24p film effect to the HD footage must be done independently (since the 16mm clip already has a 24p look to it), output (or rendered?), a then dropped back into the edit before outputting for final effects, such as adding grain).
Phew. Sorry if I've overstated anything, I just want to be clear. Answering any of my questions above would be a huge help... and yes, my time is running out. No pressure.
Maybe I can help things along by restating my questions (simply):
1. What is the best way to apply speed changes, including reversals, to 720p 60 footage?
2. What is the best way to insert speed-altered 720p 60 clips into a DVCPRO 50 timeline?
3. What is the best way to apply a 24p frame rate effect (courtesy of Nattress' Film Effects) to this mix of 720p 60 and DV? (None of the DVCPRO 50 requires this filter because it was all originally 16mm film, which already appears to be 24p)
Thank you for your help so far, and thanks in advance!
P.S. - Sorry, another thought just occured to me. Say my cut is locked, couldn't I also opt to output the edited 720p 60 clips I'm using from a native 720p 60 timeline, then convert these clips using Compressor and re-import them into my project?
I've read elsewhere that Compressor's format conversions are pretty spiffy, if time-consuming, but I'd only need to do this to a handful of relatively short shots. This way I could import the clips as DVCPRO 50 NTSC (interlaced, 29.97, 720x480), then apply other effects to all of the clips (like 24p, grain, etc.)...

External Hard Drive Question...

I am looking to purchase an external hard drive to use with my Macbook and my PS3 in order to store my music and movies and share my media between the two. I am also purchasing a larger internal hard drive for my PS3 and it is the exact same 160GB SATA 5400rpm HDD that is in my Macbook so I am assuming since the internal hard drives for the two are compatible that an external hard drive that is compatible with my Macbook will also work with my PS3.
My question is what type of external hard drive will work with my Macbook? I was looking at a Hitachi 500GB SATA 7200rpm external hard drive but when reading a customer review it read something about not being compatible with a particular PC because it is 3.0GBs and the PC would only recognize an externall hard drive that is 1.5GBs.
I am unsure what the GBs feature is or what it means and which is compatible with the Macbook. Does anyone have any insight on this or even better does anyone have an external hard drive that is around 500GB that they know works with the Macbook?
Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
1.83GHz Macbook C2D 1GB RAM 160GB HD Mac OS X (10.4.8) 5.5G 80GB White iPod/60 GB Playstation 3 w/ 32" LCD HDTV 720p-1080i

I am not sure I understand what you are asking. If you want to use a HD as an external drive, you have to buy an enclosure as the enclosure has the chipsets to convert the HD connections to USB or FireWire.
You need it.
I would suggest that you get an enclosure that uses both USB and FW as your PS3 has USB and your MB has both USB and FW. FW is faster so that would be nice to use on your MB.

Switching from FCP7 to CS6! Two BIG questions I can't figure out...

Hello!
So I'm running CS6.01 on my new 27" iMac running OS 10.6.8. I'm excited to be transitioning over to CS6 after the last 6 or 7 years using Final Cut Pro. But I don't have time to mess around as I'm in the middle of projects so here are my 2 main questions right off the bat:
First I should say that I edit AVCHD footage shot from Panasonic HMC150's. I shoot Weddings. About 35-40/year. In FCP, my workflow was...shoot EVERYTHING at 720p60 and TRANSCODE it in FCP to ProRes Proxy. Then I'd CONFORM it to 23.98 (using Cinema Tools which takes all of about 30 seconds to do 400 clips) so that it was all in slow-mo looking smooth and beautiful. Then, I'd drop it all on the timeline and edit. Most clips I need in slow-mo but the ones I don't (eg. the Ceremony) I just speed up 250% and it's full speed. Then at the end of editing I'd batch capture and re-transcode to ProRes 422 and I'm done. It all looks great.
Here's the important thing:
I edit on a 23.98fps timeline that way it maintains a bit of the film-stuttery look instead of the video/soap-opera look of 60fps footage and also it naturally has everything at 40% smooth slow-mo. I dont want that video/soap opera look that I would get if I edited my 60p footage on a 60p timeline! This is important to me.
1) I know with CS6 I don't "have" to transcode, but I can just ingest and edit the AVCHD files natively, right? Well, okay, but if I do that will dropping those 60p clips on a 23.98fps timeline give me the same look I got when I use to conform the footage first? Specifically is it just as smooth to just change the speed of a 60p clip by 40% and drop it on a 24p timeline? And what about the stuff I want at full speed...if I drop that 60p footage right on the timeline and don't speed it up it will be full speed but will it look the same as my conformed footage looked when sped up in FCP? Please elaborate for me.
2) Audio. When I bring in audio clips from my 2 cameras each track has 2 separate audio feeds (eg. 2 wireless mics, a shotgun mic, an internal mic). CS6 brings them in on one track. I read up where I need to "Modify the clips" and adjust the Audio Channels so that there are 2 tracks. Then I'm guessing I just make one track the left track and one the right? This seems to work and makes a separate track that is balanced to the center and has each of the 4 channels as its own separate adjustable track. Am I doing that right? And more importantly...my real question...if I'm scrubbing thru the timeline and I double click on one of the audio tracks to bring up the waveform and edit, sometimes it doesn't come up where I stopped in the timeline. Unless the clips are linked. But don't I have to unlink them to edit them individually? So how do I do this where I can be in the timeline, watching the video and when I hear something I want to adjust, I stop the video and quickly access the individual track (eg. one of the wireless mics) to make the adjustments?
Hope my questions make sense. Thanks SO much in advance for all your help! It took me like 20 minutes to figure out how to post a question but now that I've done it I'm very excited that I've got it out there and hopefully I'll get past my current workflow roadblocks. Thank you!!!!!!!

Jim Simon wrote:
I'd recommend a different work flow. Shoot what you want at full speed in 720p/24. Shoot what you want in slow motion at 720p/60...
I would respectfully disagree with Jim's statement and endorse the OP's technique of shooting at 60 fps for purposes of playback at both normal speed and slow motion at 24 fps.
I think the more creative choices you give yourself in post the better.
Since you (DMH79) are using the same footage for both normal speed and slow motion playback, I think your way is definitely the way to go as long as you are happy with the resolution.
Even if you were not using the same clips at different speeds, I would still disagree with the opinion that you should be able to predict in advance which shots from a hectic live action event such as a wedding you will want to use in slow motion. In fact, I would go so far as to say that it would be impossible, no matter how easy it is to switch modes.
Given that slow motion is a reasonable priority for you, I think there is much less to be gained by shooting at 24 fps for clips that you might use at normal speed than by giving yourself the option of both normal speed and slow motion with a 60 fps recording. (To me the bigger tradeoff is not being able to shoot 1080p at 60 fps, which I think applies to your HMC150.)
I love the look of 24p and will shoot that way for scripted work or if I am absolutely certain that I won't want to use a single shot in slow motion, but for many live events, my preference is to shoot at 720p60, shutter angle 180, for eventual output at 30 fps. I edit in a 60 fps timeline in Premiere, but I export at 30 fps. I find that exporting at 30 fps in combination with the 1/120 shutter speed removes much of the soap opera look (a great description, by the way), but there is no jerkiness in normal speed clips because 30 is exactly half of 60. Media Encoder simply removes every other frame during export. Yet, this allows me to drop any clip to 50% speed and achieve perfectly matched, silky smooth slow motion.
You probably prefer the 40% speed slow motion and added stutter of 24 fps, but regardless, if you do find that controlling the speed via Speed/Duration is equal in quality to conforming, you may want to consider cutting in a 60 fps timeline and giving yourself the option to export at either 24 or 30 fps.
Your last post on this topic was from a few months ago. I also switched from FCP7 and would be very curious to know what you have discovered!

Is 720p my only option?

I don't know what I'm looking for so I apologize if this has already been answered. But my question is this.
I use my tv as a monitor and have been doing so for some time. I generally use windows and when I plug it in the desktop proportions fit or resize. I was using a vga cable. Now I use a mac mini with a hdmi to hdmi connection. The tv recognizes that it is 1080p but when I use that setting I have to sit no more than 2 feet from the tv in order to read in notes, font, etc...
The exception to this is chrome which resizes to fit the entire screen similar to what windows used to do.
I changed the display settings from 1080p to 720p and that has seemed to done what I am looking for.
Is there a way to keep 1080p but 720p proportions?
Would changing from hdmi to dvi connection work?
Thanks for the help.

Ok, but I'm not trying to connect to the my mac using vga. I am simply asking why 1080p appears smaller than 720p when connected via hdmi and if there is a way to increase the 1080p size.

Transfer HD video from canon dslr to iPad 2 via cam kit Question!

Hey all.
I have a Canon DSLR that records 1080p HD video at 24, 25 & 30 fps and 720p HD video at 50 & 60 fps.
I have an iPad first generation with a ipad cam kit for transferring video and photos. It transfers photos just fine, but with video, it can't transfer full 1080p clips at all directly from the camera using the USB cam kit connector or via SD card using that adaptor. Nor will it transfer 720p clips using the cam kit unless the clips are not more than 30 fps. Since the canon t3i dslr shoots 720p video at 60 fps, the video is not viewable unless I first transfer it thru my iMac at home and THEN load it on the iPad.
Since I travel a lot, this is not convenient for me.
I want to be able to transfer my HD movies directly onto my iPad while on the road and edit them and then upload them to my travel blog or YouTube.
The first gen iPad cannot run the new iMovie app. Only the new iPad 2 can. So I was thinking of upgrading to the iPad 2.....
HOWEVER...I want to know if I will have the same problem trying to transfer my HD video directly from my canon t3i DSLR via the cam kit while on the road so that I can view and edit the clips on my iPad 2?
I know getting the MacBook air is an option, but I prefer traveling with the iPad. I just want to know if any video/photographers who have the new iPad 2 and canon dslr can answer my questions.
Thanks so much.
Cheers.

Yes, they will transfer as long as they are in 720p. However, you might want to check this if you are willing to try. Might save you from having to buy a new iPad?
http://mikehellers.com/blog/2010/05/09/import-and-view-1080p-videos-on-the-ipad- directly-from-your-canon-dslr/

Export DVCPROHD 720p Under 500MB - Please Help Me! :(

Hey guys,
Im new to this community but I have a question that has been killing me all night. I have done export after export after export and still, to no avail have i ended at a solution.
Here is the deal:
I have exported several movies from Final Cut Pro and uploaded them to Vimeo.com in HD and everything has been fine, smooth, and effortless for the most part. When I choose the option File > Export > Quicktime Movie it usually takes under 2 minutes, and creates a self contained movie on my desktop. Problem is this file is 2GB and sometimes wont play on other peoples computers, or macs. Possibly something to do with a final cut setting, not sure.
But here is my problem, I usually go File > Export > Export using quicktime Conversion. I leave the settings as they are, never touch them and just save it to the desktop. It finishes a few minutes later and I have my file, 1280 X 720 resolution, H.264 and there is another codec that reads DVCPROHD 720p. I recently exported an interview I shot the EXACT same way without changing anything accept it seems to be missing this DVCPROHD 720p codec when I check out the file settings..
If i open up the other videos that worked, the settings are pretty m3.06 Ghz uch exactly the same, but they have the "DVCPROHD 720p" codec thing. All the exports I have tried in the last 5 hours don't.. Unless its a 2GB file. The first movies I made were easily as long as my interview and not nearly as big in size.
Im stuck. I have no idea what I'm doing wrong or how to include this codec, or how to export this so its under 500 mb with the dvcprohd thing.
Please help? If anyone actually understood that..

A file uses only one codec, never two. So your files are either DVCPROHD or h264
(or somthing else), but not both.
What codec is your FCP sequence (select the sequence and type command-0)?
DVCPROHD is a better quality codec, might take less time to encode
(depending on your FCP sequence settting) and is medium sized.
h264 is a very high-quality codec for web-delivery, takes a LONG time to encode,
and results in small files.
Export > Quicktime Movie (using currrent settings, and self-contained)
will use the same codec as your sequence. This is the fastest export.
Export > Export using quicktime Conversion will permit you to make a
lot of choices (and maybe a lot of mistakes). It defaults to h264.

720p 24 Question

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