Add SSD drive

Hi,
I recently purchased a Hp Envy J171 and would like to add an SSD drive to make it faster. So my question is does anyone know which SSD drive out there that work best for my laptop ? and how do I install the new SSD drive ?
Thanks

Can we have your full model? There is a 15-J171nr and sa and they are not the same. It is important to know if you have the mSSD accelerator 24 gig drive. That will impact the instructions, but the best SSD drive to get is a Samsung 840 Evo. Your budget is going to determine the size but even a 512 gig is pretty affordable, compared to not too long ago. Here is the Manual:
Manual
See page 42 for how to remove the service door and access the hard drive and possibly the mSATA.
This link has access to all the available sizes of the Samsung 840 Evo:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2W01AZ5550&cm_re=840_evo_ssd-_-20-147-248-_-Prod...
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Similar Messages

I like to use the 2nd HDD tray to add SSD drive

Hello,
I like to use the 2nd HDD tray in order to add a SSD drive.
Are there any additional parts required in order to fix the new drive? If yes, please mention the name and part number.
Yours
Stephan

> Is there a specific HDD caddy or maybe a compatible model from another Toshiba notebook which fits into the 2nd slot?
What you need is an HDD bracket for a 2.5 HDD as posted by Dr.Lamp
Such part can be purchased from different computer dealers also from an Toshiba authorized service partner available in your country.
Ask or search simple for 2.5 SATA HDD bracket
By the way: 2nd HDD is possible ONLY if the 2nd HDD slot would contain the HDD connector

Add SSD Drive in 2nd Bay

I have a new DV7-6C95DX on which I installed Windows 8. I'd like to add an SSD from NewEgg:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820239046
Does anyone know what wiring I will need to accomplish this, the 2nd drive bay appears empty with no place connect a new hard drive.
<Todd />
This question was solved.
View Solution.

If you want to take advantage of the performance boost of the SSD then I suggest that you use the SSD as the boot disk.
****Please click on Accept As Solution if a suggestion solves your problem. It helps others facing the same problem to find a solution easily****
2015 Microsoft MVP - Windows Experience Consumer

Can I add an SSD drive to an Omni 27?

Can I add an SSD drive to an Omni 27 (1200ev) or do I have to replace the original drive? Ideally I'd like to retain the 2TB hard drive and have at least the OS on the SSD. Kind Regards, Brad

Hello Serguey. I understand you'd like to add an SSD to your system.
Hard drives today use what is called a SATA connection. Normally, you could not add a hard drive to one of these connections. However, I believe you could add an expansion card to the slot which would give you more SATA connections. Here is a link which contains products which fit this description.
However, I have a feeling that this card would not work very well because this is an All-in-One unit and it has a very limited amount of space inside.
Is there a reason you wanted to add an extra SSD as opposed to upgrading your main hard drive to an SSD?
I am not sure of any way to power off the monitor with the computer on other than by adjusting your power plan's settings. This Microsoft article contains more information about power plans.
Let me know if this helps and have a great day!

Installing three SSD drives on Mac Pro

Hello,
I followed the advice given here and bought 3 Samsung 840 SSD drives for my Mac Pro. Two of them are 120GB and one is 250GB.
I also purchased a Tempo SSD Pro 6GB/s SATA PCIe Drive. Only one of them (that holds two SSDs.)
I plan on using:
     • one SSD for the OS and APPS
     • one SSD for a PS scratch disc
     • one SSD for the photoshop, premiere pro, and after effects files I'm currently working on.
I figured I'd keep the 1TB HDD currently used in the computer to store all my other files.
I also have a 1TB seagate extrenal HDD that I would like to set up as a back up or time machine.
Does this sound good?
If so, which SSD do I install in my regular sliding drawer bay? I have 2.5" - 3.5" adapter.
Which two do I install on the PCIe card?
Which on do I use for what?
As you can see I'm clueless. Lol
Here are my specs before adding the SSDs.
Mac Pro
Mid 2012
Processor 3.33 GHz 6-Core Intel Xeon
Memory 48 GB 1333 MHz DDR3 ECC
Graphics ATI Radeon HD 5870 1024 MB
Software OS X 10.8.4 (12E55)
Storage 1TB Sata disc (423.26GB free),
               1TB External USB Disk freeAgent GoFlex Drive (988.58 free)
P.S. I'm unsure about being able to install my current O.S. on the new SSD. When I bought the Mac Pro it had an older version of OS on it with a free download of the new OS. So the disc will only have the older version. Will I have to pay for the newer one or can I somehow copy it from the current HDD drive it's installed on?
Thank you so much. You have already been a HUGE help in the past posts and look forward to your wisdom. 8 )
Matt

Clone the system to the SSD you plan to use for system.
How much disk space is your system using now? w/o incl. anything in /Users, so just system.
If your system uses 60GB you want to use the 240GB SSD.
I think 120GB is on small side for scratch alone.
move projects to scratch array when you want to work on them: "Work disk + scratch" is fast. Then move them off the array, erase the array, and start a new project.
I would try the 2 x 120 SSDs on PCIe 6G as scratch and see how it feels and works.Try and test. No harm. I think that is what most people do, they experiement and try out different setups to find the one that works best for them.
Important: Have a clone of the system and be ready to restore or move it around as needed.
Install TRIM Enabler of course.
SSD Maintenance
Samsung recommends setting aside 10% for over-provisioning.
Their Windows utility, shame there isn't a Mac version.
#2: Try system on 120GB in drive bay with an adapter
With that then use the other two on the Tempo.
Those could be one large 360GB volume JBOD.
You will have to see how much your scratch space gets used.
I would have argued for 3 x 240GB SSDs. More flexible. Better SSD design - slightly. Adds $140 to the price, even if you had to wait to get 3rd one;
#3 get 2 x 240GB for scratch and projects and 1 x 120GB for system (if your system is less than 50GB)
I doubt you will find the difference of the system on the Sonnet Tempo a deciding factor.
The Sonnet Tempo Pro is for higher I/O RAID, both Tempo cards support 2 x SSDs (I have the cheaper one)
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Series-120GB-internal-MZ-7TD120BW/dp/B009NHAF06/
PS: You have Mountain Lion. Buy Carbon Copy Cloner and it will clone the system and create the recovery volume also so you should not need to redownload 10.8.x - and you do not need the DVD with 10.6.4 again.

Upgraded my 2009 iMac with ssd drive

Hello
I wanted to share my experience with upgrading my late 2009 iMac replacing the DVD drive with a 240GB SSD drive and upgrading the hard drive to a 3TB hard drive. Back a year ago I upgraded the factory 1TB with a seagate 2TB which was the main internal drive holding the osx. With needing more room I discovered the seagate 3TB also had the necessary heat sensor connector, so I knew that 3TB drive would work. Adding the 240GB SSD was a last minute decision. Plus, I seldom use the factory standard DVD drive and discovered that my LG brand USB dvd drive actually works when attached to the iMac. Operates just like the factory DVD drive.
So having done an upgrade before on this machine, I was not too concerned, but have to add that all did not go well this time.
Alter removing the screen and all the screws, then while carefully unplugging all the wires attached to the monitor, that one plug labeled LCD TEMP, that tiny little plug, broke at the circuit board. I was not using too much pressure and suspect the stress on these delicate connections had reached the limit. Both from the previous upgrade, and now another. The plug was simply stressed and ready to give way.
Maybe this plug was defective, I don't know, but the snap-in plug pulled the top of the black plastic circuit board connector off, exposing the two copper connector prongs. Not only that, but the two copper prongs that were now exposed were curled upward. Making re-attachment of the plug near impossible. So I figured maybe i could re-attach the tiny LCD TEMP plug back onto the exposed prongs and then electrical tape over to hold in-place. But first I had to somehow get the curl out of the two copper connector prongs for the plug to connect.
Well, while using a small screw driver to try to flatten out the curled copper prongs, one copper prong exceeded its stress level and broke off. Could not take the stress of being bent and messed with. Everything inside these machines are extremely delicate, as everyone knows only too well that has ever opened up their imac.
And now, a broken LCD TEMP circuit board connector. What to do, what to do?
Kill two birds with one stone.....
But first I wondered if this LCD TEMP sensor would keep the system from operating, so I put the machine back together, half way together, and powered it up.
The machine came to life, however, the CPU fan was running crazy fast 3800 and noisy as ****.
Googling this, I came across another person that had the same LCD TEMP cable break, and saying their CPU fan went crazy in the same way.
So I realized somehow the system needed this LCD TEMP connector, connected.
What to do, what to do?
I ran over to radio shack and bought the lowest wattage soldering iron they sold.
Now, this killing two birds with one stone part...
I had to somehow solder two new wires onto the spot where this LCD TEMP board connector attached to the circut board.
No easy task since there was only a hair-lines space between the two circuit board connectors. I had to somehow achieve the impossible.
And while at it, killing off the second bird, I could replace this LCD TEMP wire itself with new much longer wire set, making this disassemble - reassemble thing much easier.
Well I pulled it off.
I was able to solder two new wires to the spots on the circuit board where this LCD TEMP connector sits.
Without bleeding solder onto the partner connector just a hairs-line spaced between.
Then I patched in this new and longer pair of wires from the circuit board LCD TEMP to the monitor LCD TEMP sensor.
And finally, replaced the DVD drive with the new 240GB SSD drive, slapped the machine back together half way just enough to power it up, cloned the osx hard drive to the SSD drive, "option-restart" the machine and booted from the new SSD drive, everything working as it should.
I even dismounted the orginal internal hard drive holding the osx, and ran the system to ensure everything worked, which it did.
Next, tore the iMac back down, replaced the 2TB hard drive with a new 3TB hard drive, and for a final time slapped the system back together.
Everything is operating perfect,
Naturally, had to format the new 3TB hard drive, and will move all my iTunes media back to that new drive I had temporally stored on an external USB drive.
Fans are all running at normal speeds.
System is once again silent when running.
And this is the last and final time I will ever upgrade this particular machine sober.
Just some advice, this is some of the unforeseen mishaps that can occur when upgrading any iMac.
And this could have ended in disaster.
Luckily however, I had just enough luck and experience to get thru the hurdles, now I have a better, bigger, faster iMac.
Like they say, this self upgrading is not for the faint of heart.
For awhile I seen myself listing this on eBay as a dead 27" late 2009 iMac for sale for parts.
Not the case, well at least not the case this time....

Congratulations on not panicing and stating it like it is. Clearly upgrading the internals of an iMac is not for the faint of heart, I plan on keeping your post if for no other reason to show others why a do-it-yourself on an iMac is a pretty foolish thing to undertake.

Should I put the new SSD drive in main HDD bay or the Superdrive/Optical bay for a Mid-2010 Macbook Pro?

Hello All,
I'm considering getting a new SSD drive to add on to my Mid-2010 Macbook Pro (13 inches, unibody), and wondering which one of the following two options I should really adapt:
(1) Replace the original OEM hard drive in the main bay with the new SSD drive, and then remove the Superdrive (or the optical CD drive) and to be fitted into an external enclosure for using it externally in the future, and then relocate the original OEM hard drive into the Superdrive position, so both the new SSD (preferably for running the OS and system files) and the old OEM hard drive (for storing media and documents for example) could be used; and
(2) Keep the original OEM hard drive in place in the main drive, and buy a superdrive/optical drive caddy to goes with the new SSD drive, and together place the new SSD drive fitted inside the caddy into the position of the Superdrive/Optical CD drive, and configure the boot preference to be booting from the Superdrive/Optical Drive (which is now the SSD drive with OS and system files);
I've done some researches and some suggested that option (2) is better approach for at least two reason: (a) the MBP main drive come with some sort of shock proof sensor, so placing the original optical hard drive in the main is better than placing it in the super/optical drive where there is NO shock sensing feature provided, and placing SSD in the super/optical drive, one doesn't really have to worry so much about shocks; and (b) as during the process of shutting down the MBP, for optical hard drive, some power will sometimes needed to finally spin down the drive, but if such optical hard drive is place in the superdrive, the power maybe cut off right away when MBP shut down, which may cause issue to the optical hard drive in a long run as it never properly spin it down.
Then the main concern is that, if I adapt option (2) above, placing SSD in the super/optical drive bay and install and running the OS from there, will it decrease the performance (i.e. speed, latency, and etc.) as if i was to put the new SSD in the main drive?
Also, any suggestions with respect to Samsung 840 EVO vs. Samsung 850 EVO (250GB)? any well-rated HD caddy aside from OWC for moving the main HDD to optical CD bay? and perhaps an external enclosure for the Superdrive? Thanks in advance for any comment and/or suggestion.
- Jack

Could you provide some rationale(s) behind it? As far as I know, the mid 2010 Macbook Pro, the HDD is running via the SATA interface at running at 3.0 Gb/s, which is SATA II, and the Super-drive and/or the Optical drive, which is also running via SATA II interface, so I would assume the performance (i.e. primarily in speed) would be similar if not the same by placing the SSD drive in either one of the two places.
Also, wouldn't it be better by placing the SSD in the optical so the OEM HDD could be kept in the original main bay since it has the shock-sensing feature there?

HOW TO ADD SSD to MacBook

I read in numerous forums and never came up with a real answer if it is possible to add a SSD (solid state drive) drive to your MacBook.
My test model was a new aluminum MacBook 2.4 already updated to 4 gigs from OWC for $80 delivered. (which I might say has worked flawless for over 7 weeks now)
To start I had to determine what type of drive I had and what type I needed.
The various types in the macbook appear to be PSATA, SATA, and SATA II.
My macbook uses SATA, however SATA II is backward capable and works fine in 10.6.
I then shopped for a SSD and found a 120 gb drive which is actually a 128 with 120 usable for only $199 shipped from NewEgg.
The model I use is this link
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227361&nmmc=TEMC-RMA-Approvel&cm_mmc=TEMC-RMA-Approvel-_-Content-_-text--
(OCZ SATA-II 2.5" 9.3 mm thick. Core Series V2 120GB (actual usable)
model OCZSSD2-2C120G
bar product code 42024-00982
I paid 199 shipped and the price rises and falls on demand.
After 3 days the drive arrived and I then called my local Mac Genius, who has worked for Apple for over 20 years on instructions on how to make everything work.
I connected the bare drive to my computer via a standard mini usb to usb cable.
This drive also has a mini built in usb connector on it.
The drive instantly showed up on the desktop.
Next I opened Apple Disk Utility and highlighted the drive (upper not lower ID)
I then under the partition set it for 1 partition and also set it for "Guid partition table"
This step is important as the PC environment need to see it under this
I set the type of formatting as "Mac os Journalied and let the drive format.
Once this was done I went to Bombich.com and downloaded carbon copy cloner
Once on the desktop I selected the Mac hd as my source and the SSd as my target drive
46 minutes later I had a perfect clone of my original with all serial numbers and programs.
I now turned off my machine flipped it over removed the rear battery cover and the battery from the macbook
With a small phillips screwdriver I removed the screw above the hard drive which permits a little rubber bar to be removed.
I then pulled on the plastic tab on the drive and the original pulled out and the connector simply pulls off.
I then with a small torx screwdriver removed the 4 torx screws from the side of the original drive and installed them on the SSD drive.
I attached the connector to the drive which was a perfect fit and installed the drive back into the computer.
Installed the rubber bar retaining unit with phillips screw, battery in once lever is in open position and replaced the lid.
Note-lever must be in open position for battery to go in and out. It appears lever also secures battery and not just battery cover.
Once everything finished and double checked I started the computer which worked flawless
Only thing I noted was that I had to re-enter my wireless extreme name and password in order for it to work otherwise all other passwords were there.
Less then 24 hours of use it is fast quiet and extremely cool.
Power consumption has gone down from .60 amps @ 5 volts to .35 amps @ 5 volts a power savings of .25 amps or 1.25 watts per hour.
Given that apple claims a 5 hour run time for this 4 amp battery at 12 volts or 48 total watts this means that the computer uses approximately 9.6 watts per hour.
With this drive saving 7.5 watts over the 5 hours (1.25 x 5 hours)or now using only 8.35 watts per hour with this hard drive you should now get about 45 minutes more run time.
Of course this is all speculative and does not take into account energy saved, by not running the fan more often as the hard drive barely registers any heat.
In comparison my hard drive temperature was 108-f, and base was about the same, with cpu running around 120-f.
Now with the new hard drive the temp is 32-f for the hard drive, with the base running about 86-f, and the cpu at around 108-f.
The temperature for the HD appears to be too low to either be measured or register as 32-f would be freezing which is impossible in my household which hovers around 72-f.
On a scale of 1-10 research was about a 10 formatting and cloning the drive about a 5 and for switching the drives about a 2, and only a 2 because you had to change from a phillips to a torx screwdriver.
I hope this helps anyone else who is considering this upgrade to a 128 gb for less then $200.
Tim

Your ssd does not have a temp sensor so the software sets it to the baseline which is 32.

SSD drive filling up due to video rendering?

Hi. Apologies for what will no doubt be a stupid question but I'm not as computer savvy as many of you here.
Basically I film ice hockey games for my local team and produce weekly highlights for YouTube. I edit the footage using Premier Pro CC and then import that project into After Effects CC to add in the the few effects. I then render by using Adobe Media Encoder.
All of these filed are saved on my hard drive (D:) however I notice that after the process my SSD drive (C:) is rapidly filling up and I can't see why. I have Windows 8 and my C: Drive user folder is filled with 100+GB yet when I open the folder and add up the total of its contents it comes to little more than 16GB. I feel sure it's linked to the video editing unless it's a sheer coincidence that I noticed it only after making each set of highlights. Presumably some kind of temporary files folder that I can't locate?
Anyone with any suggestions I'd be grateful. I'm sure I'm missing something obvious here.
Ta very much.

Drive C space http://forums.adobe.com/thread/1007934?tstart=0 see reply 4 for the setting that you need to manually change... and then delete any old temp files
-In Edit >Preferences > Media I changed this location to the D:\ drive as well
-Check C:\Users\<user name>\AppData\Roaming\Adobe directory for superfluous data

SSD drive for Lion?

I have a Mac Pro Desktop. It is 2007 vintage with duo core. I presently have two hard drives in it, and am running Snow Leopard. I would like to add a SSD drive and install Lion on it. I would like to be able to boot from either Lion or Snow Leopard. After I create the Lion drive would I need to copy all my applications from Snow Leopard? I want Lion SSD to be only used for booting and running Apps. I will use the other two drives for storage.
I am thinking about maybe a 60GB SSD drive? Has anyone had any experience, with SSD drives and what brands would you recommend?
Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
Carl

If you redirect Accounts to another location (not on the Boot Drive) you need to direct them back there again after a restore.
SystemPreferences > Accounts/User&Groups > ...
... Unlock the lock, then hold down Control as you click on an Account to get access to the Advanced Options pane.

Best way to utilize SSD drive with Adobe/Photoshop?

Hi guys,
Just bought my first SSD drive (240GIG)and are about to set it up for the purpose of doing any Adobe CC work the fastest I can.
Obviously I have to install the Windows 7 Pro system onto the drive and Adobe files, I imagine that any work Adobe .psd/work files I should also keep on the drive?
So partition it like
C: Windows 100GIG
D: Program Files and Work Files 140GIG
Or should I add another drive E: so I can set scratch disks to it?
Or can scratch disks just utilise my old non SSD drive?
I imagine getting everything onto SSD would be the way to go, but thats only guessing.
Any help or advice would be great

First off, these things are solid state, with 2 million hour MTBF. They don't heat up and cool down much, since they don't draw much power. The reality is this: They just don't fail. I've had zero glitches in 1.3 years of daily hard use with this setup. No failures or errors or slowdowns or anything since it was new. A single electromechanical HDD seems WAY more prone to losing data.
Secondly, I do make backups. Anyone with any sense does. I complete a system image backup every night between 1am and dawn to external USB drive that can be restored to bare metal if need be. Windows Backup gets the job done quite nicely, and it not only provides catastrophic failure recovery capability, but also integrates with the Previous Versions feature - for everything. Having to rebuild an array and restore a backup is no big deal, if a failure should occur. Restoring individual files is trivial. If you're really paranoid you could build a RAID 5 or 10 array that could handle failures in stride, but in practice I've found it's just not needed.
Thirdly, JJ seems to want to debate whether there is a performance gain in making an SSD array. I'm guessing you haven't been able to directly compare a system so equipped. When your hardware can read an entire 1 GB file in less than a second - and it gives this kind of performance for every operation the system does - you'd better believe that helps. Care to compare benchmarks? Keep in mind this SSD design is nearly 2 years old. Modern top of the line drives such as the OCZ Vector would kick heck out of mine (OCZ Vertex 3) performance-wise.
Out of curiosity, if you start Windows Explorer, navigate to drive C:, select all the folders and files in the files pane, then right-click and choose Properties, how quickly does it count up your files? This is one case where a single SSD ought to run just about as fast as an array, since it's just a huge number of small I/O operations. My system enumerates its 618,411 files in 21 seconds, or about 30,000 files per second. See what yours does.
-Noel

H8-1240ef - installing Windows 7 on a ssd drive

Hi,
I have a HPE h8-1240ef with a 1 TB SATA III drive.
I would like to add a 64 GBytes SSD SATAIII Drive in order to install Windows 7 on it , to increase performances.
Since we do not have a "Windows 7 installation CD" with the HP machine, I do not know how to install Windows 7 on the SSD drive and swap the bootable volume, to have the SSD Drive viewed as C: Drive.
Many thanks for your help
This question was solved.
View Solution.

Hey Grboutin,
You will need recovery discs to recover the system. But you will need a 160GB SSD as the minimum size to recover the system using recovery discs.
You can create the recovery discs on your PC, just type in Recovery in the start menu and Recovery Manager should show up. Follow the instructions to create the recovery media either on DVD or a thumb-drive.
here is a link.
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c01867124&tmp_task=solveCategory&cc=us&dlc=en&ju...
but - the key is - ANY SSD will not work, you HAVE to have a 160GB or larger to recover to. Otherwise you will need to purchase a retail version of windows.
good luck
bill
I'm a HP employee

Looking at External SSD Drive for Lightroom Editing - How Can I Set This Up and Which Drive?

I'd like to purchase an external SSD drive for Lightroom editing and am hoping somebody can provide a recommendation for me.
I'm using a FW800 G-Drive to store my Lightroom Library and have been using this drive to edit. I'd like to add an external SSD drive for editing photographs an am looking for recommendations on which drive and the best way to set this up. I plan on having a 3rd (and maybe 4th) to save both the FW800 files and working SSD drive files as a backup.
Any recommendations are sincerely appreciate.

I believe I was loading a preview file to 100%. I think maybe I should just use what I have and work with it. It's much faster than my 7 year old MBP performed that's for sure.
I was just wondering if I could spend a few hundred for an external Thunderbolt or USB 3 drive to speed up my productivity. With the full time job and the kids, I have a little time to work on photography. I'd love to increase my output. I'm more than willing to spend the money on the TB or USB 3 if it would help.
The specs on the camera say 24.1 million pixels: 24.6 MB. The raw files are
NEF (RAW): 14 bit, compressed

MacBook Pro slow shutdown after installing SSD drive

Hi,
Just got a new 256GB SSD drive and installed it in my Macbook Pro, super super fast might I add. Startup in a couple of seconds, and apps open very fast. The only problem is the shutdown time, it takes over a minute to shutdown, really strange. I've read this post;
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=13097765
But this does not solve my problem. Any ideas what could be the problem?

Have you tried booting into your Recovery partition (holding down the Command and R keys whilst booting).
I don't know why an iTunes update would cause your MBP to shutdown and not turn back on. If you can't boot into your Recovery partition, try running the Apple Hardware Test (if you can - if you can't, it's time for a trip to your local Apple Store or AASP).
Clinton

Installing an SSD drive in a MacPro

Hello,
I just got me a 256Gig SSD drive to add to my Mid 2010 MacPro. The manufacturer (Samsung) gives no info whatsoever on how to go about installing the MacPro, what the needed tools/items would be or any other easy to find info on using/maintaining such a drive in a Mac. I know the 2 companies are not best buddies but as a consumer I feel kind of thwarted…
So any hints are warmly appreciated here!

In more than a "few" cases, lack of enabling TRIM resulted in the device performing ever slower and sluggish. I guess in such cases some type of restore would be called for, or a weekly run under Mavericks system - though I never like to run DU from prior OS especially on new OS with as many changes as Yosemite has. CCC had to be updated to be compatible.
Using TRIM on non-Apple SSDs
http://www.softraid.com/pages/support/compatibility_notes.html
When running Mac OS X 10.10 Yosemite, the SoftRAID application no longer modifies the Apple driver to enable TRIM on non-Apple SSDs.
Modifying a driver in Mac OS X 10.10 Yosemite can make your Mac no longer startup.
If you are willing to take the risk of having your Mac no longer startup, you can download and install TRIM Enabler and your SoftRAID volumes will use TRIM on Mac OS X 10.10 Yosemite.
Make sure you read the warnings about using TRIM on Mac OS X 10.10 Yosemite before installing and running TRIM Enabler.
http://www.softraid.com

Add SSD drive

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