Apple Notebooks: Operating Temperature

I see Apple has updated article# 30612 (Apple Notebooks: Operating Temperature) to include the MacBook Pro. The most interesting part of the document is the first paragraph:
"The bottom surface and some areas between the keyboard and LCD hinge of your Apple notebook computer can become hot after extended periods of use. This is normal operating behavior. With processor and bus speeds in portable computers often matching, if not exceeding, those of desktop systems, increased operating temperatures in portable computing products are common throughout the industry."
So it seems Apple is knowledging that this extreme heat is normal above the F keys and on the bottom surface (mainly at the back).
MacBook Pro 2.16GHz/2GB RAM/100GB 7200rpm hard drive Mac OS X (10.4.6)

Hi Brad,
"extreme heat"
All of the Apple computers are like this. Same with all laptops that I have ever seen. The back of the computer near the hinge is where the fan is, so there should be some heat coming of there. I am glad some heat comes out of the keyboard (barely); its better then the logic board.
Jon
Quick question; where did you see extreme heat?
Mac Mini 1.42Ghz, iPod (All), Airport (Graphite & Express), G4 1.33Ghz iBook, G4 iMac 1Ghz, G3 500Mhz, iBook iMac 233Mhz, eMate, Power Mac 5400 LC, PowerBook 540c, Macintosh 128K, Apple //e, Apple //, and some more... Mac OS X (10.4.5) Moto Razr, iLife '06, SmartDisk 160Gb, Apple BT Mouse, Sight..

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Apple notebook batteries – maintenance and troubleshooting

Disclaimer: Apple does not necessarily endorse any suggestions, solutions, or third-party software products that may be mentioned in the topic below. Apple encourages you to first seek a solution at Apple Support. The following links are provided as is, with no guarantee of the effectiveness or reliability of the information. Apple does not guarantee that these links will be maintained or functional at any given time. Use the information below at your own discretion.
Apple notebook batteries – maintenance and troubleshooting
Apple notebook computers use lithium-polymer (MacBooks and MacBook Pros) or lithium-ion (PowerBooks and iBooks) batteries as a portable power source. The newest members of the MacBook Pro lineup have built-in (non-removable) batteries, which are physically larger and use a modified charging scheme for a longer lifespan – you can read more about them on this linked page. The following tips should help you get the most use out of your battery, and help with troubleshooting if you are experiencing problems. A short list of do’s and don’ts is followed by more detailed information, for those who want the details.
*Do’s & Don’ts*
DO use your battery frequently and lightly, ideally completing 1-2 charge cycles per week (minimum one charge cycle per month).
DO properly calibrate your battery when new and approximately every 2-3 months thereafter.
DON’T fully discharge your battery frequently (the infrequent, periodic calibration is an exception).
DON’T store your battery (or your computer) in a high temperature environment, such as the trunk of a car, especially a fully-charged battery.
DON’T run your MacBook or MacBook Pro on AC power with the battery removed.
*Usage Pattern*
Lithium-based batteries function best when used fairly frequently but lightly. Apple states +"An ideal use would be a commuter who uses her MacBook Pro on the train, then plugs it in at the office to charge. This keeps the battery juices flowing."+ Note that there is no "memory effect" for lithium-based batteries, unlike nickel-based batteries (NiCd, NiMH) which perform best when fully discharged then fully charged. It is best not to completely discharge your battery, with the exception of calibrating it (see below). It is also not a good idea to run on AC power all the time. Note that when you are running on AC power, there is no danger of "overcharging" your battery – the Mac will not initiate charging of the battery if the current charge is 95% or higher, as described in this kbase article. Basically, a good rule to thumb is to run on AC power much of the time, but run on battery power for a while a few times per week. Using the battery for 2 full charge cycles per week equates to 300 cycles in 3 years, which is the optimal use. An explanation of a "full charge cycle" can be found on this page. Note that for Apple portables with a removable battery, you _should not_ run a MacBook or MacBook Pro on AC power with the battery removed - Apple strongly recommends against this for two reasons: first, the risk of lost data and damage to the hard disk directory structure if the MagSafe plug is accidentally disconnected, and second, the computer will reduce the CPU processor speed. The latter is due to the fact that the CPU will sometimes (for brief periods) require more power than the AC adapter can provide, and the additional power is drawn from the battery; the OS throttles back the CPU to avoid this situation.
Calibration
The battery has an integrated microchip that acts as a "fuel gauge." Calibration resets this gauge, which allows the OS to better determine times to charge and discharge the battery. Calibration should be done approximately every two months. Failure to do so for a long period of time can result in the microchip "fuel gauge" in the battery losing the ability to accurately determine the remaining charge, and it will report that there is more charge in the battery than is actually present. As a result, the computer will not initiate Safe Sleep at the proper time, and instead undergo a hard shut down, one of the main causes of hard drive directory damage. Once the battery is in the state resulting from a failure to calibrate, it is not possible to calibrate the battery, and it will need to be replaced. For Apple portables with removable batteries, note that Apple specifies, +"A _properly maintained_ Apple notebook battery is designed to retain up to 80% of its original capacity at 300 full charge and discharge cycles."+ For MacBook Pros with built-in batteries, the battery should maintain 80% of it’s original capacity for 1000 cycles. Calibration is considered part of proper maintenance.
*Battery Life and Battery Lifespan*
Battery life is how long the battery will power the computer on a full charge. To maximize battery life, consider turning down the brightness of the display, which is one of the major power consumers in a notebook computer, and if you don’t need Bluetooth and/or Airport connectivity, consider turning those off as well. Apple offers these suggestions for maximizing notebook battery life. In practice, battery life is usually somewhat less that stated in the specifications for the various Apple notebook computer models – Apple’s testing of ‘wireless productivity’ is likely limited to browsing simple websites and basic word processing. During ‘real world’ use, battery life will normally be in the range of 1-3 hours less than the specified battery life, depending on model, usage and activity. If life is shorter than expected, see the Health and Troubleshooting sections below. Battery lifespan is how many cycles/years the battery will hold sufficient charge to power the computer for a reasonable time. For Apple portables with removable batteries, a properly maintained lithium-based battery will last approximately 400-500 charge cycles or 3-4 years, +whichever comes first+. Note that this means even an unused battery loses capacity, due to the continuous nature of the chemical reaction and the buildup of oxidation in the cells. For MacBook Pros with built-in batteries, Apple’s ‘adaptive charging’ results in a significantly longer battery lifespan.
*Battery Health*
You can check the condition of your battery using System Profiler (Apple menu > About this Mac > More Info > Power section). The relevant numbers are Full Charge Capacity and Cycle Count. Mac OS 10.5 Leopard also provides a readout of battery Condition (not available in 10.4 Tiger), based on those parameters. “Health” refers to the full charge capacity of a battery relative to the nominal full charge capacity of a new battery, expressed as a percentage. Programs such iStat and CoconutBattery report the health, or you can calculate it manually: full charge capacity from System Profiler / nominal new full charge capacity * 100. For Intel-based Mac portables, nominal new full charge capacities are:
MacBook (Original, removable battery) - 5093 mAh
MacBook (Late 2008, removable battery) - 4167 mAh
13” Macbook Pro (Mid-2009, built-in battery) - 5478 mAh
15" MacBook Pro (Original, removable battery) - 5556 mAh
15" MacBook Pro (Late 2008, removable battery) - 4630 mAh
15” Macbook Pro (Mid-2009, built-in battery) - 6665 mAh
17" MacBook Pro (Original, , removable battery) - 6296 mAh
17” Macbook Pro (Mid-2009, built-in battery) - 13015 mAh
Note that health-reporting widgets (iStat Pro, CoconutBattery) use rounded values for the denominator of ‘health’. The above values are calculated from the wattage of the batteries (45 Wh to 95 Wh, see the specifications for each model, which can be found here or here) and their voltage (10.8 V for all removable batteries, 10.95 V for the 13” and 15” built-ins, and 7.3 V for the 17” built-in; those values are printed on the batteries); these capacities are nominal, and in practice new batteries will have full charge capacities that are slightly higher or lower than those values. PowerBooks and iBooks have batteries ranging from 45 Wh to 61 Wh - specs for individual models can be found here or here); these Li-ion batteries are all 10.8 V, so nominal new full charge capacity can be calculated by multiplying battery Wh x 92.6. (For the curious or algebraically-inclined, 92.6=1000/10.8, which converts Wh to mWh and divides by voltage to yield mAh, based on I=P/V derived from Ohm’s law). When Apple specifies, +"A properly maintained Apple notebook battery is designed to retain up to 80% of its original capacity at 300 full charge and discharge cycles,"+ they are referring to 80% health. Please note that health fluctuates from cycle to cycle, depending on factors such as the pattern of charging within recent cycles, ambient temperatures during use, and time since last calibration. It is normal for health to move up and down within a range of ~10% (e.g. between 86% and 96% over time).
*Troubleshooting – short battery life and sudden shutdowns*
If battery life is unacceptably short, it may be due to a background process that is running a high percentage of CPU activity. Check Utilities > Activity Monitor > CPU tab, set the pop-up menu to Active Processes, click on the CPU column to sort, and see if anything is using a high amount of CPU capacity. Short life and sudden shutdowns may also be due to a defective or an old battery - check the battery health and cycle count. If the cycle count is in the 400-500 range (or higher) for removable batteries, the battery has exceeded its useful life, and needs to be replaced. This does not indicate a defective battery - batteries are considered a consumable part, and need to be replaced at the end of their useful life. If the cycle count is less than 300, and the health is less than 80%, the battery may be defective - this applies primarily to the newer, Intel-based Mac portables. For a certain period of time (a rather long period, in fact), Sony produced defective batteries (both Li-polymer and Li-ion) - this issue affected many laptops (Apple, Toshiba, Dell, etc.) that use batteries manufactured by Sony. Apple officially acknowledged these defects for Intel-based notebook computers, as stated on this page, and extended the battery warranty to two years from date purchase for all Core Duo machines bought between February 2006 and April 2007. Battery Update 1.2 was designed to test batteries and expose defects. Note that there were actually two battery replacement programs from Apple concerning Intel-based Macs – both programs are _now officially closed_. One was an exchange/recall for specific serial numbers, and applied only to a relatively small number of 15” MacBook Pros; the other was the more general replacement program for the defective Sony batteries. There was also an exchange/recall for battteries in the 12" iBook G4 and 12"/15" PowerBook G4, also due to manufacturing problems at Sony (these were the batteries with a safety risk).
Following the above steps should ensure a long and useful life for the battery in your Apple notebook computer. Hope this helps...
This is the 2nd version of this tip. It was submitted on July 13, 2009 by neuroanatomist.
Do you want to provide feedback on this User Contributed Tip or contribute your own? If you have achieved Level 2 status, visit the User Tips Library Contributions forum for more information.

Disclaimer: Apple does not necessarily endorse any suggestions, solutions, or third-party software products that may be mentioned in the topic below. Apple encourages you to first seek a solution at Apple Support. The following links are provided as is, with no guarantee of the effectiveness or reliability of the information. Apple does not guarantee that these links will be maintained or functional at any given time. Use the information below at your own discretion.
Apple notebook batteries – maintenance and troubleshooting
Apple notebook computers use lithium-polymer (MacBooks and MacBook Pros) or lithium-ion (PowerBooks and iBooks) batteries as a portable power source. The newest members of the MacBook Pro lineup have built-in (non-removable) batteries, which are physically larger and use a modified charging scheme for a longer lifespan – you can read more about them on this linked page. The following tips should help you get the most use out of your battery, and help with troubleshooting if you are experiencing problems. A short list of do’s and don’ts is followed by more detailed information, for those who want the details.
*Do’s & Don’ts*
DO use your battery frequently and lightly, ideally completing 1-2 charge cycles per week (minimum one charge cycle per month).
DO properly calibrate your battery when new and approximately every 2-3 months thereafter.
DON’T fully discharge your battery frequently (the infrequent, periodic calibration is an exception).
DON’T store your battery (or your computer) in a high temperature environment, such as the trunk of a car, especially a fully-charged battery.
DON’T run your MacBook or MacBook Pro on AC power with the battery removed.
*Usage Pattern*
Lithium-based batteries function best when used fairly frequently but lightly. Apple states +"An ideal use would be a commuter who uses her MacBook Pro on the train, then plugs it in at the office to charge. This keeps the battery juices flowing."+ Note that there is no "memory effect" for lithium-based batteries, unlike nickel-based batteries (NiCd, NiMH) which perform best when fully discharged then fully charged. It is best not to completely discharge your battery, with the exception of calibrating it (see below). It is also not a good idea to run on AC power all the time. Note that when you are running on AC power, there is no danger of "overcharging" your battery – the Mac will not initiate charging of the battery if the current charge is 95% or higher, as described in this kbase article. Basically, a good rule to thumb is to run on AC power much of the time, but run on battery power for a while a few times per week. Using the battery for 2 full charge cycles per week equates to 300 cycles in 3 years, which is the optimal use. An explanation of a "full charge cycle" can be found on this page. Note that for Apple portables with a removable battery, you _should not_ run a MacBook or MacBook Pro on AC power with the battery removed - Apple strongly recommends against this for two reasons: first, the risk of lost data and damage to the hard disk directory structure if the MagSafe plug is accidentally disconnected, and second, the computer will reduce the CPU processor speed. The latter is due to the fact that the CPU will sometimes (for brief periods) require more power than the AC adapter can provide, and the additional power is drawn from the battery; the OS throttles back the CPU to avoid this situation.
Calibration
The battery has an integrated microchip that acts as a "fuel gauge." Calibration resets this gauge, which allows the OS to better determine times to charge and discharge the battery. Calibration should be done approximately every two months. Failure to do so for a long period of time can result in the microchip "fuel gauge" in the battery losing the ability to accurately determine the remaining charge, and it will report that there is more charge in the battery than is actually present. As a result, the computer will not initiate Safe Sleep at the proper time, and instead undergo a hard shut down, one of the main causes of hard drive directory damage. Once the battery is in the state resulting from a failure to calibrate, it is not possible to calibrate the battery, and it will need to be replaced. For Apple portables with removable batteries, note that Apple specifies, +"A _properly maintained_ Apple notebook battery is designed to retain up to 80% of its original capacity at 300 full charge and discharge cycles."+ For MacBook Pros with built-in batteries, the battery should maintain 80% of it’s original capacity for 1000 cycles. Calibration is considered part of proper maintenance.
*Battery Life and Battery Lifespan*
Battery life is how long the battery will power the computer on a full charge. To maximize battery life, consider turning down the brightness of the display, which is one of the major power consumers in a notebook computer, and if you don’t need Bluetooth and/or Airport connectivity, consider turning those off as well. Apple offers these suggestions for maximizing notebook battery life. In practice, battery life is usually somewhat less that stated in the specifications for the various Apple notebook computer models – Apple’s testing of ‘wireless productivity’ is likely limited to browsing simple websites and basic word processing. During ‘real world’ use, battery life will normally be in the range of 1-3 hours less than the specified battery life, depending on model, usage and activity. If life is shorter than expected, see the Health and Troubleshooting sections below. Battery lifespan is how many cycles/years the battery will hold sufficient charge to power the computer for a reasonable time. For Apple portables with removable batteries, a properly maintained lithium-based battery will last approximately 400-500 charge cycles or 3-4 years, +whichever comes first+. Note that this means even an unused battery loses capacity, due to the continuous nature of the chemical reaction and the buildup of oxidation in the cells. For MacBook Pros with built-in batteries, Apple’s ‘adaptive charging’ results in a significantly longer battery lifespan.
*Battery Health*
You can check the condition of your battery using System Profiler (Apple menu > About this Mac > More Info > Power section). The relevant numbers are Full Charge Capacity and Cycle Count. Mac OS 10.5 Leopard also provides a readout of battery Condition (not available in 10.4 Tiger), based on those parameters. “Health” refers to the full charge capacity of a battery relative to the nominal full charge capacity of a new battery, expressed as a percentage. Programs such iStat and CoconutBattery report the health, or you can calculate it manually: full charge capacity from System Profiler / nominal new full charge capacity * 100. For Intel-based Mac portables, nominal new full charge capacities are:
MacBook (Original, removable battery) - 5093 mAh
MacBook (Late 2008, removable battery) - 4167 mAh
13” Macbook Pro (Mid-2009, built-in battery) - 5478 mAh
15" MacBook Pro (Original, removable battery) - 5556 mAh
15" MacBook Pro (Late 2008, removable battery) - 4630 mAh
15” Macbook Pro (Mid-2009, built-in battery) - 6665 mAh
17" MacBook Pro (Original, , removable battery) - 6296 mAh
17” Macbook Pro (Mid-2009, built-in battery) - 13015 mAh
Note that health-reporting widgets (iStat Pro, CoconutBattery) use rounded values for the denominator of ‘health’. The above values are calculated from the wattage of the batteries (45 Wh to 95 Wh, see the specifications for each model, which can be found here or here) and their voltage (10.8 V for all removable batteries, 10.95 V for the 13” and 15” built-ins, and 7.3 V for the 17” built-in; those values are printed on the batteries); these capacities are nominal, and in practice new batteries will have full charge capacities that are slightly higher or lower than those values. PowerBooks and iBooks have batteries ranging from 45 Wh to 61 Wh - specs for individual models can be found here or here); these Li-ion batteries are all 10.8 V, so nominal new full charge capacity can be calculated by multiplying battery Wh x 92.6. (For the curious or algebraically-inclined, 92.6=1000/10.8, which converts Wh to mWh and divides by voltage to yield mAh, based on I=P/V derived from Ohm’s law). When Apple specifies, +"A properly maintained Apple notebook battery is designed to retain up to 80% of its original capacity at 300 full charge and discharge cycles,"+ they are referring to 80% health. Please note that health fluctuates from cycle to cycle, depending on factors such as the pattern of charging within recent cycles, ambient temperatures during use, and time since last calibration. It is normal for health to move up and down within a range of ~10% (e.g. between 86% and 96% over time).
*Troubleshooting – short battery life and sudden shutdowns*
If battery life is unacceptably short, it may be due to a background process that is running a high percentage of CPU activity. Check Utilities > Activity Monitor > CPU tab, set the pop-up menu to Active Processes, click on the CPU column to sort, and see if anything is using a high amount of CPU capacity. Short life and sudden shutdowns may also be due to a defective or an old battery - check the battery health and cycle count. If the cycle count is in the 400-500 range (or higher) for removable batteries, the battery has exceeded its useful life, and needs to be replaced. This does not indicate a defective battery - batteries are considered a consumable part, and need to be replaced at the end of their useful life. If the cycle count is less than 300, and the health is less than 80%, the battery may be defective - this applies primarily to the newer, Intel-based Mac portables. For a certain period of time (a rather long period, in fact), Sony produced defective batteries (both Li-polymer and Li-ion) - this issue affected many laptops (Apple, Toshiba, Dell, etc.) that use batteries manufactured by Sony. Apple officially acknowledged these defects for Intel-based notebook computers, as stated on this page, and extended the battery warranty to two years from date purchase for all Core Duo machines bought between February 2006 and April 2007. Battery Update 1.2 was designed to test batteries and expose defects. Note that there were actually two battery replacement programs from Apple concerning Intel-based Macs – both programs are _now officially closed_. One was an exchange/recall for specific serial numbers, and applied only to a relatively small number of 15” MacBook Pros; the other was the more general replacement program for the defective Sony batteries. There was also an exchange/recall for battteries in the 12" iBook G4 and 12"/15" PowerBook G4, also due to manufacturing problems at Sony (these were the batteries with a safety risk).
Following the above steps should ensure a long and useful life for the battery in your Apple notebook computer. Hope this helps...
This is the 2nd version of this tip. It was submitted on July 13, 2009 by neuroanatomist.
Do you want to provide feedback on this User Contributed Tip or contribute your own? If you have achieved Level 2 status, visit the User Tips Library Contributions forum for more information.

What is the operating temperature on an MBA Rev C?

I have an MBA Rev A
After watching 45 minutes of video the operating temperature is 65 Degrees C and the fan is running at 6200 RPM.
I was just curious how an MBA Rev C faired under the same circumstances.
Can someone tell me what the temperature and fan speed is in this situation?

Both my Rev A & Rev B fans will start in the 2000 rpm neighborhood and climb to about 2300 rpm within 5 minutes of usage.
Humm...mine will stay at 2000RPM even with AOL Radio and my webcam running.
Dave M.
MacOSG Founder/Ambassador  An Apple User Group  iTunes: MacOSG Podcast
Macsimum News Associate Editor  Creator of 'Mac611 - Mobile Mac Support'

What does operating temperature mean?

http://support.apple.com/kb/SP5
Apple states that the maximum operating temperature is 35 degrees Celcius. Does that mean that my Macbook can be, at max, 35 degrees Celcius, or that the temperature around me, while using my device, can be, at max, 35 degrees?
Thanks, so much.
Regards,
bettyfromcalifornia

Also pay attention to "storage temperature".
Car trunks in deep summer can easily exceed both humidity and temperature limits.
And car tunks in deep winter can easily lower the temperature of all components even deep in the Macbook. You may want to allow your Macbook some time to slowly re-warm from deep freeze.
If your Macbook will be in storage for a length of time (2+ weeks) you may want to leave it with a friend who has controlled-environment if your only other option is a storage unitsthat has no controls.

IMac operating temperature question

Hi. I am thinking of getting a new iMac.
I see on the iMac technical specifications webpage :
http://www.apple.com/imac/specs.html#specs
...that the iMac is required to be in a 50 degree Farenheit or warmer environment. "Operating temperature: 50° to 95° F (10° to 35° C)"
So what if the temperature goes down to 35 degrees Farenheit in a low heat overnight situation? Is this a real cause for concern?
Thanks.
Thomas

The Dell XPS One has these specs:
"Temperature:
Operating 10° to 35°C (50° to 95°F)
Storage –40° to 65°C (–40° to 149°F)
Relative humidity 20% to 80% (noncondensing)"
(I had to download the "Dell™ XPS One™ Owner’s Manual" to find them. Annoying.)
The important word is "noncondensing". If your machine gets cold and the water vapor inside it condenses, then you have liquid water covering certain parts. This is never good.

HD operating Temperature

Hello,
Another post regarding the heat. Sorry
I just received my macbook and it runs very hot. The link below states my hard drive operating temperature. I am just using the Internet and an email application and my HD temperature is 104 F or 40 C. For many out there running huge applications it might help because if your laptop reach or is even close to that temperature Apple will definitely need to resolved this issue.
http://www.seagate.com/cda/products/discsales/personal/family/0,1085,667,00.html
Close to or above your HD operating temperature there is 100% possibility that your hard drive fails, restarts or lock down. Look for your specific hard drive model. They should be in the same range.
Thanks
IBM laptop Windows XP Pro

Hi Bob
I have a 2.0 macbook pro. What about you?
Mine has reached 107.6 F or 42 C and I don't run any applications. I wonder what application I can use in order for me to test it.
Thanks.

"Normal" Operating Temperature

What is considered the "Normal" operating temperature for the Apple TV? All I have found online from Apple is:
Your Apple TV is designed to operate quietly in an environment warmer than room temperature, including within media cabinets.
This can be rather ambiguous as warm to one could be hot to another. I've had my Apple TV for barely over 3 years and do not use it that much. Recently, I've noticed it running very hot to the touch (it always has run 'hot' to me, but not quite this hot.) If I start it up at room temperature after it has been unplugged for awhile, it runs fine for about 20 minutes. Then I start to see blue dots across the TV screen and then shortly after that, the picture becomes very pixelated. Feeling the case then at that time, it is quite hot to touch.
How can you tell what temperature it is running at? Should it not be running that hot? What have been the experience of other users?
thanks,
Jon

Hi there,
I've been having the exact same problem with my ATV. Had it for about 3-4 years, and not used it a huge amount until recently - although it has been plugged in most of the time, so the HDD and fan have been running.
I've always thought the ATV ran hot, but recently I've noticed it getting MUCH hotter than usual. I've also noticed an increasing problem with flashing pixels on screen, corrupt menus, flashing and in the worst cases completely corrupt video playback (inverted colours, blocking, etc.)
I've been doing a bit of experimentaion to isolate the problem, and I'm fairly sure this is heat releated. The problems seem to get worse the longer the device is left on. If I cut the power and let it cool down for 5 mins, then everything seems fine for about 30-60 mins, then the symptons return.
I've had final proof tonight: I couldn't get the ATV to play anything for more than about 5 mins before we had problems. In a last ditch attempt, I got an icepack from the freezer, encased the ATV and turned the fan on to draw air over it ... the result? Problems gone.
I'm going to open it up an evening this week, and see whether the fan is running. If not, I'll investigate further. I guess I could always relocate my ATV to the freezer :o)
In my opinion, Jon - your ATV seems to be having the exact same problem as mine. I think there's a strong possibility the fan has either failed after all these years, or the fan connector has worked loose.
I'll let you all know what I find.
Oli.

CPU operating Temperature range

Looking for the CPU operating temperature range. Not the ambient operating temperature range, but the range the CPU is allowed to run at.
My CPU has been nearing 175° F.
Macbook still runs great.
This is an early 2006 model with the intel core duo 2GHz
Thanks

I believe the lower limit is 32F and the upper limit 212F. At 212F it will trigger thermal shutdown.
Dave M.
MacOSG Founder/Ambassador  An Apple User Group  iTunes: MacOSG Podcast
Macsimum News Associate Editor  Creator of 'Mac611 - Mobile Mac Support'

Imac Operating Temperatures

Is it ok to keep my imac in a conservatory (temperatures between 10-34degrees)

Hey there Hayhowp,
It sounds like you need to know the recommended operating temperatures of your late 2006 iMac.
iMac (Late 2006) - Technical Specifications
http://support.apple.com/kb/Sp28
Operating temperature: 50° to 95° F (10° to 35° C)
Storage temperature: -40° to 185° F (-40° to 85° C)
I hope you find this information useful.
Thank you for using Apple Support Communities.
Cheers,
Sterling

Safe operating temperatures for macbook

What is a safe operating temperatures for macbook? My processor runs as high as 170 degrees sometimes.

Hi ..
Help here >> Mac notebooks: Operating temperature

Why does iPhone 5 shuts down in 2 C degrees? This should be inside operating temperature limits?

Hello,
Why does iPhone 5 shuts down with +2 C (celsius) degrees outside? This should be inside operating temperature limits? I´m living in Estonia and I was using iPhone 5 approximately 1 hour with +2 C (celsius) outside. Suddenly it just powered itself off with 25% of remaining battery. I was not able to switch it on again before warming it up inside the house.
I´ve been reading lots of similar complaints regarding other customers iPhone 5-s. Seems that the problem may be the aluminium back cover and thin, large-surfaced battery cause older iPhones are operating with same temperature just fine. Do you have any plan to fix this issue in the future?
Best regards,
Silver Siilak
<Personal Information Edited by Host>

You're not speaking to Apple, just your fellow users. The specs say it's good down to 0°C... sounds like you have a hardware problem, likely battery. Contact Apple, it's still under warranty.
Hint: NEVER put your personal info in a public forum. Edit your post to remove this info. Also, I'll ask the moderators to do it if you can't.

HT2101 What's the lowest operating temperature for iPhone 4S?

My phone turned off by itself & couldn't turned it On while I was out for trekking & temperature was -40 oC. I use a leather casing for my iPhone. I was out of contact with my family during that time. Surprisingly when I turned it On upon reaching home it still showed 40% charged status. What's the lowest operating temperature for iPhone 4S?

A Google search is your friend. This was the first hit with a search for "iPhone 4S specs".
http://www.apple.com/lae/iphone-4s/specs/
Operating temperature: 32° to 95° F (0° to 35° C)
Nonoperating temperature: -4° to 113° F (-20° to 45° C)
Relative humidity: 5% to 95% noncondensing
Maximum operating altitude: 10,000 feet (3000 m)

How to connect my friends apple notebook through video call

HOW TO CONNECT TO A FRIEND WHO IS USING APPLE NOTEBOOK FROM MY IMAC SUGGEST ME WAITING FOR A SOLUTION FROM APPLE TEAM SUPPORT

Hi,
Typing in all upper case is regarded and shouting here.
Presumably as you have posted in the OS X 10.7.x (Lion) area you are running this version of the OS on your iMac.
This will have iChat 6 on it.
This can use AIM, Jabber and Yahoo IDs within the app.
Apple IDS ending in @mac.com and iCloud issued @me.com and @icloud.com are also Valid AIM Screen Names.
If you use Googlemail and Enable "talk" in the products there you can then use your Google Mail ID as a Jabber ID (although it has it's own Add Account option in iChat)
Facebook has an option to Enable "Chat" which will give you a Chat ID variant on your name there and this can be used in iChat (or Messages) as a Jabber ID.
The Yahoo Account will only do Text chats.
It also has to be an actual ID registered at Yahoo.
Chats are then AIM to AIM or Jabber to Jabber or Yahoo to Yahoo.
So your Buddy will also need a suitable ID or Screen Name for the relevant service.
8:16 pm Sunday; January 19, 2014
 iMac 2.5Ghz 5i 2011 (Mavericks 10.9)
 G4/1GhzDual MDD (Leopard 10.5.8)
 MacBookPro 2Gb (Snow Leopard 10.6.8)
 Mac OS X (10.6.8),
 Couple of iPhones and an iPad

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Perhaps if you told us why you need that information, we could offer some alternative suggestions.

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