Apple TV Buffering and 2.4GHz router issues

Hi,
When I set m y router to 2.4GHz I have to wait forever to buffer movies that I have on home sharing on my ATV, I can switch my router to 5GHz and movies don't need any loading time - they play straight away. Now the problem I have with this is that having my router set to 5GHz means that I lose wifi connection on my iphone.
Does anybody have any suggestions as to why the 2.4GHz setting is so slow? Can I get around this issue?
Thanks very much

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Apple TV 2 and AT&T UVerse issues

I've poked around the forums, and seen a few discussions about this, but with slightly different hardware setups, and I didn't see any with a conclusive workaround.
Here's the basic issue: AppleTV has no problem connecting to the WLAN, recognizing available home sharing libraries, etc. When streaming anything that's not local however (i.e., Netflix), the stream stops repeatedly. During a 90 minute movie, the stream was interrupted at least 25 times. Twice, the router seemed to kick all wireless devices off the network momentarily.
I can plug the ATV into the UVerse cable box via Ethernet cable, and the streaming issues are more or less eliminated, but this solution doesn't really work for us, because it makes it impossible to stream any local media (ATV no longer sees any local libraries or devices) or to use the Remote app to control the ATV, since the two devices cannot see each other on the network.
HARDWARE:
Router/Modem: 2Wire 3801HGV with default settings, save for some minor port forwarding for unrelated applications
Apple TV 2
Main media library host: 27" iMac i7, connected wirelessly
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Optimally, I'd love to be able to run the ATV as intended: with full access to all iTunes libraries and iDevices on the WLAN. It's immaterial to me if this is achieved with the ATV plugged into the AT&T cable box or wirelessly. As it stands right now, however, the wireless setup performs terribly.
It seems as though any advanced networking with the UVerse setup can be quite difficult, but I am willing and able to attempt any known fixes for this issue.
Thanks so much in advance; I really do appreciate your help.

Having the exact same issues. The only solution, which seems to work for a few days, is powering the rebooting the router when the connectivity issues happen. For whatever reason, I seem to consistently lose connectivity over night (sometime between midnight and 7am).
When I first got Uverse, there was a wireless connectivity issues with Macs that was resolved by turning off Protected Wi-Fi setup. Now the issues seem to be back: http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=13090738
These 2Wire routers with Uverse are miserable, and it's clear that AT&T and Apple products don't play well together...sound familiar?

I have an issue with my iphone touch screen not responding, apple replaced phone and still having same issue. They say its software, what can I do I need my phone to work

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restore iPhone as new and start again

Apple TV buffering issues with iPhone 4s and iPad 2

Hi all,
I just got me an Apple TV 2nd gen (yeah, I know, ordered 2 days before the presentation of the new one). So far so good, the device is up and running, connects just fine to my Airport Express router and all.
However, if I try to stream a video from my iPad (2) or my iPhone (4S), the results are quite horriffic. The iPad videos would buffer for a very long time before they start and then quite fast after that the buffering problems restart. It's pretty impossible to play a video fluently of more than 20 seconds. If I'd try from my iPhone it's even worse with videos being 1080p, the thing just never plays, eventually the preloading process stops on the mirroring mode is cut.
I have to point out, all my devices are in the same room (WiFi) so the signal is the best it can be.
This is honestly quite surprising AND disappointing to be honest, given I bought the device mostly for that, so I can stream videos from my phone and pad.
Tell me, am I doing something wrong, or the video streaming over those devices is just a marketing gimmick with nothing real behind it?
Would it matter if I change my router from Airport express to Airport extreme?
Thanks!

I have the same issue with ATV3 and iPhone 4S. Everything works properly, no buffering issues when watching netflix, vimeo, youtube BUT when I try mirroring even a small 15sec iPhone movie it stutters and buffers and results to a choppy playback..same with larger mp4 files such as 1-1.5GB, buffers forever and never plays, I just re-encoded the same movie to 700MB and plays perfectly..
Why Apple, why?..so close..I can accept the bigger movie files issue, but not being able to playback properly an iPhone movie is funny..I recorded a movie with lower bitrate through Filmic Pro (Economy mode, up to 16Mbps)
and plays properly.
Is there an upcoming software update going to solve the problem or is it hardware related and therefore not fixable.
Please don't reply with a network related answer, by 2012 we know how to set up our networks and everything else runs flawlessly.
I'll apreciate a fast answer, we love Apple, but if it can't play an iphone movie (or a high quality movie from iTunes) it's just not up to my standards.
Thanks again.
JP

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Hello Tvsteven,
Thank you for providing all the details regarding the Wi-Fi connection issue you are experiencing with your Apple TV. I found an article with some steps you can take to troubleshoot an issue like this.
I recommend reviewing the full article, but the section titled "If you can see your Wi-Fi network, but you are unable to connect to it" specifically stands out to me for the situation you described:
Apple TV (2nd and 3rd generation): Troubleshooting Wi-Fi networks and connections
http://support.apple.com/kb/TS4546
Thank you for using Apple Support Communities.
Best,
Sheila M.

I am quite fed up with Apple and my iMac - multiple issues

I've been a Windows user for years. I've suffered through all of the ups and downs of Windows over the years, mostly the downs. I have three Windows 7 computers, and quite frankly, both have performed quite beautifully, albeit without the polish of the Mac.
Earlier this year, I decided to buy an iMac for a few reasons. First, they are just so beautiful, and even if you are going to run Windows they are probably the best Windows computers out there. Second, I wanted to do more video editing and found the Windows tools weren't very good. I also wanted to run some karaoke software (kJams) that at the time was not available for Windows.
I was basically pleased with the iMac for a few months. However, there was one problem I could never solve: the wifi connection got lost periodically, even though I had made all of the system updates. I know this is a problem with the iMac, because my numerous Windows PCs and my two iPod toouches had no problem with a wifi connection. It appears from various posts here that this is indeed a problem many others have experienced since Snow Leopard's release, and as far as I can tell, despite many updates to the Airport software it has never been fixed by Apple. Strike 1.
A couple of weeks ago, my iMac started running slow for no reason I could identify. I don't have a lot of software installed on it, I didn't download anything pirated or questionable. I did install bootcamp according to Apple's instructions, and it worked fine (I wanted to run some Windows games). I tried doing all of the things that folks suggest when your computer is running slow - repairing permissions, running Onyx, etc. None of them seemed to do anything. I tried creating a new user, it had the same problem. I also noticed various other problems with the computer: it was slow to recognize a USB hard drive (and sometimes didn't recognize it at all), external hard drives would not appear in the time machine set up, and various other problems I can't quite recall. Overall, while presumably nothing serious should have been wrong with my computer, I decided I probably should simply reinstall OS X. Strike 2.
Now, quite frankly I would have been happy to simply reset the computer to its factory state. I would point out that nearly all Windows PCs come with a separate repair partition where it is very easy to do that with one click. I guess Apple is so confident in the reliability of its computers it doesn't think this is a useful feature. So, I had to install OS X using the DVD that came with the computer. It took quite a while to do this, and actually it wasn't at all clear to me that my settings would be kept (one would think that this is something the install screen would point out - Windows makes a quite clear distinction between a "clean install" and a re-install).
I was somewhat pleased when all of my settings were there. After the long process of reinstalling, I click on the "Accounts" setting I get a message saying that the Preferences application has quit unexpectedly -- clearly there are still problems. Quite irritating given that I just spent an hour trying to re-install the OS. I google around and again find others have had this problem, but unfortunately none of the proposed fixes I try seem to work. And my computer still seems to have other problems - it still doesn't recognize external drives very well. I will say that it seemed to be running a little faster though. Strike 3.
Anyway, I decide I need to do a full clean install. When I do that, things seem to be working better, although the mouse pointer is quite jerky - I'm thinking that maybe I need to just run software update to fix that. I start the software update - a nice 1gb download is required. Now ,the problem is that I STILL HAVE THE PROBLEM WITH WIFI DISCONNECTIONS. So no matter how many times I start the download, I CAN"T FINISH IT. And Apple, in its infinite wisdom, HAS NOT WRITTEN A DOWNLOADER THAT IS SMART ENOUGH TO CONTINUE WHERE IT LEFT OFF. How hard is this to do, really? Do I now have to lug my iMac across the house to put it on a wired connection? I've already wasted hours trying to get this piece of junk working.
And the sad fact is, once I am done, I will have a very beautiful computer that can't hold an internet connection.
I have to give Apple kudos for the iMac hardware. It's great. But the software? It's fine as long as it works. But it doesn't always work - and when it doesn't, it actually at this point seems more buggy and difficult to repair than Windows. Is this the last Mac I'll ever buy? Probably. Quite frankly, it's hard to avoid the conclusion that Apple's best developers have moved on to more exciting pastures (iPhone for example). And given the number of unsolved issues posted on these forums (including the ones I mention here), it appears that Apple engineers are simply asleep at the switch.

Let me start by saying I don't use wireless so I haven't had to deal with it, and I assume you know your way around all the settings in your modem/switch and Windows 7.
http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=navclient&q=Applewifi+signaldrops
Google turned up a 43 page thread, going on for a year, not very encouraging.
a href=http://discussions.info.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=2142725&tstart=0&me ssageID=12175855#12175855> Dropping Wi FI Signal
Well for weeks (months?) now, since two or three weeks maybe after 10.6.4 was released, I did not have dropped wifi until today. What is different? I applied the latest security patch less than 24 hours ago.
http://support.apple.com/kb/DL1094
Safari and DNS:
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=2227251
http://reviews.cnet.com/8301-13727_7-20016549-263.html
Airport:
http://reviews.cnet.com/8301-13727_7-20012462-263.html
Joining an encrypted wireless network
When logged in, then AirPort menu bar icon shows the approximate strength of your wireless network signal. All four signal bars darkened means you have very good throughput. If you don't see this menu bar icon, enable it in AirPort preferences. http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1126
If you can focus on networking, there are some excellent people that hang out there.
http://discussions.apple.com/forum.jspa?forumID=1343
If you bought your iMac this year then it likely came with 10.6.3 and shouldn't have a whole lot of updates, outside of iTunes and Safari etc.
iMac Networking Discussion?
http://discussions.apple.com/forum.jspa?forumID=1111
Support, tutorials, how to, etc:
http://www.apple.com/support/imac/intel/
Potential sources for interference with wireless
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1365
Bluetooth: If your computer stops recognizing your Apple wireless mouse or wireless trackpad, simply click the mouse button or trackpad surface to get it working again. http://support.apple.com/kb/TS3048
And, sometimes just knowing what make of networking equipment (linksys, netgear, d-link, even Apple). USB ADSL or a USB wireless devices don't work with Macs. Checked for firmware update for the network devices?
Changing from WEP to WPA
How do I change from WEP to WPA security, which I have been told is better. I'm sure it is simple but i cant find it.
These settings are in your wireless router, so you will have to consult the manual for how to access the administration page and change the wireless security settings. Once you have WPA or WPA2 enabled, you will need to reauthenticate your computer with the wireless network since you will have a new password. If you have problems with persistent password requests popping up, you will need to open the "Keychain Access" utility and remove all keychain entries associated with your wireless network and password.
http://reviews.cnet.com/8301-13727_7-20014188-263.html
Networking In networking utilities, the in-depth network troubleshooting and monitoring utility VisualRoute ($49.95) has been updated to fix a bug with the "whois" routine, and likewise the Wi-Fi hot spot finder AirRadar ($19.95) has also been updated with a small bug fix for the signal status not updating.
The network administration and security testing utility NetScan (free) has also been updated and now has a revamped interface and new features for port scanning as well as fixes for icon appearance and update-checking problems.
http://reviews.cnet.com/8301-13727_7-20013211-263.html
As for restore, it is different, won't be the same, but there are two ways to handle that on a Mac:
Apple TimeMachine
Clone OS X: bootable (yes, you can boot from 2nd or 3rd hard drive) - SuperDuper ($29) is superb and I update the backup (15 minutes) before applying updates.
That way I have my previous system with all data, not just an image, all my data and going back in time.
From another thread:
if you have issues when using an AirPort router, you've either got interference issues causing your problems or a system issue.
whenever possible:
1) Vist an Apple Store
2) Try your machine on their network
3) If the connection drops, make them fix it.
Reason being, I've tried and checked log after log and have never seen a connection drop inside an Apple Store.
My gut reaction would be interference but the easiest move may be to check it in an Apple Store if at all possible.
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=2142725&start=225&tstart=0
If you connect to the Internet or a network in several different ways (using AirPort or Ethernet, for example), you can change the order of the network port configurations your computer tries when connecting to the Internet or a network.
To change the priority of a network port configuration:
1) Choose Apple menu > System Preferences, and then click Network.
2) Choose Set Service Order from the Actions pop-up menu.
3) Drag a service, such as Ethernet, to the top of the list. When you try to connect, Mac OS X will try the port configuration at the top of the list.©
Tip: Any Network Device listed here that you'll never use for a Network Connection should be set to 'Inactive'.

AEBS "Ghost" Router Issue - The Challenge for 2012 (and it's only January)

Yes, it's a bold statement to claim that I have the biggest issue so far for 2012. Why may you ask? Because I've stumped RCN (ISP), Access Media 3 (ISP), Apple Tech Support, and Cisco Tech Support. Here's the challenge for you to see if you can figure it out:
***Also, sorry for the long-winded post. I've spend over 20 hours on this issue and racked up a lot of info to share with you. So please bear with me***
I used to own a Linksys E4200 router (early 2011), which I set up using the wireless network name (for example) "wifi-box". Due to performance issues, I returned the router back to Linksys in April 2011. Shortly thereafter, I purchased a used AESB. I performed a factory reset (not a hard reset, as I know the difference between the two) before setting up my network. Things worked great from April to Dec. 2011.
On Jan. 1st, 2012, the building that I live in switched ISPs. I used to have RCN, and now have Access Media 3 (AM3). Both provide the same type of connection - cable - and both provided me with a modem (not sure the model of the one that RCN provided to me, but AM3 gave me a Surfboard 5101N...shudder). Once the transition from RCN to AM3 took place, I performed another factory reset on the AESB before setting up my my network from scratch.
Now, here's where things get start to get weird. I "Created a wireless network" on my AESB, entered in the name "wifi-box" (to keep it the same as before) as the wireless network name, and followed the rest of the steps until I updated the router. Shortly after the AESB restarted, I received a "Dual (or double) NAT" error right off the bat. Looking into the issue futher, there were now 2 wireless network names called "wifi-box"?!? Huh?!? The actual name isn't "wifi-box", but was something quite unique. So it was easy to tell that it was (once) my wireless name.
The next 5 hours were a blur of reconfiguing, resetting, unplugging, etc. anything that is connected to my network. Nothing worked. During all of this, I also switched the name of the AESB to (for example) "apple-wifi".
As a last resort, I unplugged everything - the Surfboard, the AESB, wiped all Airport Util profiles off my 2 Macs, wiped my profile off my 1 PC, shut them down, did the same for my iPhone 3G, shut off the power strip that the modem and AESB were connected to, and unscrewed the coax cable from the wall. I had a friend come over with his laptop, which he never brought over before, and had him search for a wifi signal. As you would guess, "apple-wifi" didn't appear...BUT "WIFI-BOX" WAS AVAILABLE TO CONNECT TO!!! Arrrgggg!!
At this point it seems that the profile is somewhere outside of my condo. But where???
Moving along, I used a tool called WiFi Stumbler to see if that could help shed some light on my issue. What I found was unheard of. The wirless name "wifi-box" was linked to a Linksys router. Once I discovered this, I logged into my Linksys profile (192.168.1.1) to see if it still worked. IT DID!!! However, that was short lived, because as soon as I clicked on a tab, I was booted out. On top of that, I couldn't log back in. Not sure if this is because it was looking for the Linksys router or not. Whatever the reason...it's just flat out weird.
Because the password to log into my old Linksys profile was the same, it somewhat leads me to believe that someone doesn't have the same wireless name that I do.
Over the past two days, I talked to RCN, Linksys, Apple Tech, AM3, had an AM3 tech out to look at it...no one knew what the issue was. When I talked to Apple, and they thought it might be the Surfboard. The tech said that the Surfboard is also a router, which is why the "dual NAT" error is taking place. However, I then spoke to AM3 and they told me the Surfboard was only a modem. I looked it up online, and it's just modem. Also, I was able to get rid of the "dual NAT" error, but yet I still cannot connect.
My current error msg is: "Airport has the self-assigned IP address 169.XXX.XXX.XXX and will not be able to connect to the Internet". The AirPort indicator light in my Network Preferences is orange, but the AESB indicator light is green (and is reporting no issues).
To end this, (if you're still reading), any help that you may have is greatly appreciated. Everyone I spoke to is stumped. I'm not sure where to go next from here. If you know anything, please let my know . As a quick recap, here are my current settings:
Devices:
     1) MacBook Pro (2011), OSX Lion;
     2) MacBook (2009), OSX Snow Leopard;
     3) IBM Lenovo PC, Win XP SP2
     4) iPhone 3G (iOS 4.2)
Modem:
     Former modem: unknown
     Current router: Surfboard SB5101N
Router:
     Former router: Linksys E4200 (wireless network name "wifi-box")
     Current router: AESB - Apple AirPort Extreme Base Station - Simultaneous Dual-Band MC340LL/A (wireless network name "apple-wifi")
     # of Router in my condo: 1
ISP:
     Former ISP: RCN
     Current ISP: Access Media 3
Thanks and good luck (to you and me)

Thanks Tessarax,
Thanks for the reply, and no worries about the long form answer. Yesterday, I went through your process twice (for good measure). I also unplugged/shut down everything overnight and tried it once again today. Unfortunately, the results are the same.
Me network is currently up and running, albeit a limited connection. It's still producing the "Double NAT" error. My Internet is set up as follows:
These are the settings for "apple-wifi" in the AirPort Util.:
Connect Using: Ethernet
Ethernet WAN: Automatic
Connection Sharing: Share a public IP address. ("Bridge Mode" and Distribute a range of IP addresses" cause additional errors which brings down the network. These errors include setting a DHCP beginning/ending address and no Internet connection. I tried setting the DHCP beginning/ending address several times, but the AEBS never accepts my entries.)
IP: 10.XXX.XXX.XXX
DHCP: Beginning/Ending Address: 172.XXX.XXX.XXX
DNS: 8.8.8.8, 8.8.4.4
These are the settings for "wifi-box" in the Network Preferences:
IP: 192.XXX.XXX.XXX
DNS Servers: 8.8.8.8, 8.8.4.4
Search Domains: 221am3.com
802.1X: No profiles (I deleted them)
Bypass proxy settings for these Hosts & Domains: *.local, 169.XXX/XX
Use Passive FTP Mode (PASV): checked
MAC Address: same as "apple-wifi"
These are the settings for "apple-wifi" in the Network Preferences:
IP: 172.XXX.XXX.XXX
DNS Servers: 172.XXX.XXX.XXX
Search Domains: 221am3.com
802.1X: No profiles (no profiles were avaible for "apple-wifi")
Bypass proxy settings for these Hosts & Domains: *.local, 169.XXX/XX
Use Passive FTP Mode (PASV): checked
MAC Address: same as "wifi-box"
Two new discoveries that I uncovered yesterday are as follows:
1. 802.1X (under Network Preferences): There were 3 profiles that I deleted from this tab last week. After resetting the network, they came back. Whether they were present or deleted, it didn't affect the connectivity of my network. Just mentioning that these profiles came back after deletion (I deleted them again).
2. Yesterday, the network in my building went down for a few hours. I noticed that neither "wifi-box" nor "apple-wifi" were available to connect to. This is an obvious insight, but it seems that when "wifi-box" is unavailable, "apple-wifi" is unavailable as well. However, 'wifi-box' has always been available even when "apple-wifi" is down. Sounds like my Internet signal follows this path:
AM3 > Condo building > "wifi-box" > my condo > Surfboard modem > AEBS "apple-wifi" > my devices (laptops, iPhone, Xbox, etc.)
Two new questions:
1. What is DHCP Client ID and is this something that I need to provide?
2. Could the cables that I'm using cause any problems? Here's the cable that I'm using and the connections between the devices:
CAT5: Router > AEBS
CAT5e: AEBS > MacBook Pro
CAT6: AEBS > Xbox
If there's other questions or infer that you need, please ask

Ever since I received my Macbook Pro in July 2011 I've had issues with my wireless connection at home. After software updates, Apple support suggested I reboot my router which works. But now I have to do it every other day. ????

Ever since I received my Macbook Pro in July 2011 I've had issues with my wireless connection at home. After software updates, Apple support suggested I reboot my router which works. But now I have to do it every other day. ???? AT&T my DSL carrier suggests I get a new router. Apparently the one I have is really old and doesn't support my Macbook Pro. Does this sound right?

If your using WEP encryption yes, Apple has discontinued that becaues it's worthless. WEP (and WPA) is cracked so encryption makes no sense.
Get a new Wireless N router, set it up with WPA2 (AES) Personal and two different 20+ randon letter/numbersymbol character passwords
One for Admin access only of the router, keep this on paper off all comptuers in a safe someplace.
One for entering into devices, computers etc for Internet Access Only.
You need the long and random password to defeat brute force attacks by GPU software that the hackers have now.
Also if you give out the password to another, they can't hack the network with the guest access password.
Computers remember the internet password, so anyone with access to your machines or network will have the password.
Since you have another Admin only password, they can't hack in. got it?
You don't need "Invisible" or "MAC Address filtering" that's a waste of time as hackers can sniff a network and causes issues getting on the network.
Good luck.

How to for HP CP1525nw Apple AirPrint and Netgear WNDR3700 router

How to setup AirPrint on an iPhone & iPad with a HP CP1525nw and Netgear WNDR3700 router
Date written: April 17, 2011
I did this twice. It took 2 days the first time and 3 hours the second time.
Equipment used:
iPhone 4 on AT&T
iPad 2 on Verizon
HP LaserJet CP1525nw color laser
Netgear N600 Wireless Dual Band Gigabit Router WNR3700 v2
Abstract: Upgrade Apple products software, upgrade router firmware, upgrade HP Printer firmware and installer. In that order. Reboot a lot. Test as you go.
APPLE - Upgrade iTunes to the latest version 10.2.1.1 Released around mid April, 2011.
This will Upgrade iPhone 4 to version 4.3.2 (AT&T) Check in Settings under About.
This will Upgrade iPad 2 to version 4.3.2 (Verizon) Check in Settings under About.
NETGEAR - Upgrade the Netgear 3700 router from version 1.0.0.6 to version 1.0.0.8 using the built in webpage to check for updates. The router will download and install the updates. This will also update the built in Web setup GUI from 1.0.0.56 to 1.0.0.67. Power off and on the router. To see your version, check Status under Maintenance
Now is a good time to setup Wireless security in the router. Set to WPA PSK (TKIP) + WPA2-PSK (AES). Uncheck Enable Wireless Isolation.
Enter a password for both bands 2.4 GHz and 5.0 GHz, I used the same for both. (the iPad can use the 5 GHz WiFi band but not for printing {?} so use 2.4 GHz when you print.) You should give them different SSID names, like NETHOME and NETHOME-5. These will show up on your wireless devices (like the iPad but not iPhone)
Make sure your computer, iPhone and iPad can connect to the internet before you go on.
HP PRINTER – Go to HP’s website and down load the latest Installer and firmware for the CP1525nw.
Printer webpage
This is the webpage but you can just search for CP1525nw at the HP website.
Select your Operating System, such as Win 7 32 bit. And look at the list of downloads that appear below. Under Drivers (2), you want to download the HP LaserJet Full Feature Software and Driver. It says it is version 2.0 The Installer you will use is version 3.0.3.5253 as you will see. The Installer on the CD is much older (1.4).
Now under Firmware (1) download the newest firmware utility for the printer. HP LaserJet Firmware Update Utility. The file name is CP1525_Series_FW_Update-20101125.exe [1/1, 6.87M]
Note the date is 20101125. My Printer had 20100430. These are the firmware version numbers.
So 2 programs from HP. One is the Installer and the other is the Firmware Updater. You can just click on the HP Full Feature Installer to run it. No CD needed anymore. You have to get the printer working on the USB port next, and then you can update the firmware in the printer.
You should uninstall any old drivers if it asks you. You are going to uninstall and reinstall 2 or more times. Uninstall old stuff, install new USB drivers from the new download, uninstall USB drivers, and install Wireless drivers. But first get the USB working and printing. Print Config from the printer control menu to see your firmware version…. Reports/Config Report. Look at Firmware Date.
Now you can double click the 2nd HP program to upgrade the Printer firmware. The file is called CP1525_Series_FW_Update-20101125.exe This will upgrade the firmware over the USB port. When it is done you will get a yellow Happy Face. You can print Config Report from the printer controls to see the firmware version… 20101125.
Power off/on Printer. Turn off cell phones, go into Airplane mode on the iPhone and iPad. You can turn on the iPhone and iPad WiFi but leave the 3G phone stuff off. This seems to be important, I think some of the “not found” problems are RF interference with the WiFi.
Run HP Installer again. Uninstall the USB driver and then run it again to install the printer as a Wireless Device. You will need to pick the router and enter the password so the printer can log on to the router.
Once you reboot the printer, check for the blue light on the front. Make sure the Wireless is turned on in the Printer Wireless settings.
Your iPad and iPhone will go through the Router and back out to the Printer to print. Uninstall Print n Share, Print Pro and other printing helpers. (for now) Try printing now. It doesn’t work with Notes, so try printing in Safari with the BoxArrow icon.
The first time you print, you should see the Printer in list, but I had to get out of the app and get back in to Print the first time. After that is works with the CP1525nw without picking the printer again. You will see a big print button.
We so excited…. AirPrint works. (Needs some printer settings…landscape?)
Disclaimer – I don’t work for Apple, HP, Netgear, AT&T or Verizon. I work for free… I would be willing to beta test for them, they need help.

My question is if its possible for the N devices to still use N network while the G devices not demoting the whole wireless network to G?
Yes. To do so, you would need to connect the Netgear to the new 802.11n AirPort Extreme Base Station (AEBSn) by Ethernet, and then, reconfigure it as a bridge (disable both its NAT & DHCP functions).
In this configuration, the AEBSn & AXn can provide the 802.11n network and the Netgear can provide the 802.11g network.

Regarding Apple pay ,Once I activate a newly issued card do I have to delete the old card for passbook and re-enter ?

Regarding Apple pay ,Once I activate a newly issued card do I have to delete the old card for passbook and re-enter ?

No.

Lightroom 4 crashes when trying to open the slideshow module. I spent over three hours with both Adobe and Apple tech support and we know it is a permission issue but have not been able to get it solved. It started with the last upgrade to 10.8

Lightroom 4 crashes when trying to open the slideshow module. I spent over three hours with both Adobe and Apple tech support and we know it is a permission issue but have not been able to get it solved. It started with the last upgrade to 10.8

Back up all data.
This procedure will unlock all your user files (not system files) and reset their ownership and access-control lists to the default. If you've set special values for those attributes on any of your files, they will be reverted. In that case, either stop here, or be prepared to recreate the settings if necessary. Do so only after verifying that those settings didn't cause the problem. If none of this is meaningful to you, you don't need to worry about it.
Step 1
If you have more than one user account, and the one in question is not an administrator account, then temporarily promote it to administrator status in the Users & Groups preference pane. To do that, unlock the preference pane using the credentials of an administrator, check the box marked Allow user to administer this computer, then reboot. You can demote the problem account back to standard status when this step has been completed.
Triple-click the following line to select it. Copy the selected text to the Clipboard (command-C):
{ sudo chflags -R nouchg,nouappnd ~ $TMPDIR.. ; sudo chown -Rh $UID:staff ~ $_ ; sudo chmod -R u+rwX ~ $_ ; chmod -R -N ~ $_ ; } 2> /dev/null
Launch the Terminal application in any of the following ways:
☞ Enter the first few letters of its name into a Spotlight search. Select it in the results (it should be at the top.)
☞ In the Finder, select Go ▹ Utilities from the menu bar, or press the key combination shift-command-U. The application is in the folder that opens.
☞ Open LaunchPad. Click Utilities, then Terminal in the icon grid.
Paste into the Terminal window (command-V). You'll be prompted for your login password, which won't be displayed when you type it. You may get a one-time warning not to screw up. If you don’t have a login password, you’ll need to set one before you can run the command. If you see a message that your username "is not in the sudoers file," then you're not logged in as an administrator.
The command will take a noticeable amount of time to run. Wait for a new line ending in a dollar sign (“$”) to appear, then quit Terminal.
Step 2 (optional)
The first step should give you usable permissions in your home folder. This step will restore special attributes set by OS X on some user folders to protect them from unintended deletion or renaming. You can skip this step if you don't consider that protection to be necessary.
Boot into Recovery by holding down the key combination command-R at startup. Release the keys when you see a gray screen with a spinning dial.
When the OS X Utilities screen appears, select
Utilities ▹ Terminal
from the menu bar. A Terminal window will open.
In the Terminal window, type this:
resetpassword
That's one word, all lower case, with no spaces. Then press return. A Reset Password window will open. You’re not going to reset a password.
Select your boot volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name) if not already selected.
Select your username from the menu labeled Select the user account if not already selected.
Under Reset Home Directory Permissions and ACLs, click the Reset button.
Select
 ▹ Restart
from the menu bar.

I just got my Mac Pro repaired from Apple but I am experiencing the same issue: Screen freezes and shows funny rectangular bars. I shut it down manually and when I try to turn it back on it beeps 3 times. I know its the RAM but is there a way I can fix it

I just got my Mac Pro repaired from Apple but I am experiencing the same issue: Screen freezes and shows funny rectangular bars. I shut it down manually and when I try to turn it back on it beeps 3 times. I know its the RAM but is there a way I can fix it

If you just got it back and it isn't fixed or something else is wrong with it take it back and have them do the repair correctly.

I am facing issues with my music on my iOS device. I have five devices connected to my apple id. And out of which a Windows Machine and iPhone is not able to sync the purchased songs on the the Windows machine and the iPhone.

I am facing issues with my music on my iOS device. I have five devices connected to my apple id. And out of which a Windows Machine and iPhone is not able to sync the purchased songs on the the Windows machine and the iPhone. The iPhone4 shows the songs are not supported and on the Windows Machine the songs do not play completely. Can anyone advice what could have gone wrong ? Because rest of the devices are synced to MacBook and they are able to sync the content normally. I have even subscribed to iTunes Match but the problem is still not fixed.

Firstly... a little Clarity...
Devices refer to iDevices... iPod... iPhone... iPad. .. Not Computers.
Authoriation applies ONLY to Computers... of which there is a Limit of 5 per Apple ID.
If the issue is with iTunes on your Windows Computer... Perhaps you need to Re-install iTunes...
See Here... to Uninstall and Re-Install iTunes...
http://www.apple.com/support/itunes/install/

I have a 2T apple time capsule and router. I bought a Hauppauge WinTV extender which allows regular TV to be broadcasted on a PC. The program allows streaming to a Mac or iPad, iPhone, etc. I need to open a port on the router to allow this to work.

I have a 2T apple time capsule and router. I bought a Hauppauge Win TV extender which allows TV to be broadcasted on a PC. The program allows for the TV to be streamed on a Mac, Iphone, Ipad. I need to access the router set up options to open a port on the router to allow this program to stream the TV to the Mac and Iphone. I do not know how to access the apple time capsule router to change the settings to open a port on the router. help please.

Firstly you do not need to open ports to stream locally.. there is no port block in local LAN.. only WAN to LAN. So there is a good chance it is not needed at all..
Opening ports on the TC I strongly recommend a v5 airport utility.. you can download one for windows if you don't have a Mac.. iOS version of the utility I am not sure but it will not work to do complex things.
In the v5 utility go to the NAT area, and click on port mappings.
Sorry I don't have a screen shot at the moment of the actual mapping page.. but simply put the IP of the device you want opened and the port.
There are plenty of posts with this info if you google.
But as noted.. this is purely WAN to LAN.. nothing else.

Apple TV Buffering and 2.4GHz router issues

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