Apple TV power requirement - Voltage/Frequency

I recently bought ATV from US and moved to India. What are the power requirements of ATV? In India power is 220 volt as compared to 120 volt in US. Do I need a power adapter?

no it works with both volts out of the box
but the std. powercord would have to be changed to fit the wall power socket
but as i said it's a std which can be bought everywhere

Similar Messages

Power requirements of HP LaserJet Pro P1606dn Printer

Hello,
I had bought this printer from USA and brought it to India.
Now I've a question that whether this printer will work with a 240v of power input ??
Cause in USA HP website it is mentioned that it will work with a 110-volt input voltage: 110 to 127 VAC (+/- 10%), 60 Hz (+/- 2 Hz), 7 A; 220-volt input voltage: 220 to 240 VAC (+/- 10%), 50 Hz (+/- 2 Hz), 4 A
It can be seen over here : http://www.shopping.hp.com/en_US/home-office/-/products/Printers/HP-LaserJet/CE749A?HP-LaserJet-Pro-...
In India's Product page also it is mentioned same.It can be seen over here : http://www8.hp.com/in/en/products/printers/product-detail.html?oid=4110411#!tab%3Dspecs
Moreover on the back of the printer power requirements are given 110-127V ~AC.The pic of it can be seen over here: http://www.storemyfile.org/getfile.php?id=5724&key=4e7b6c045
So I'm in dilemma that whether this printer is a multivoltage printer (i.e. 110v to 220v) or not?
Pls. give me clarification about this so that I can start using the Printer ASAP.
Thanks

Welcome to the HP Forums RockmihiR91,
I read your post and see that you would like to know if the printer supports 240v.
I can help you with this.
Yes, you can use the printer on the 240v, but you will need a power outlet adapter and you will need
the adapter so it will fit the receptacle and converter.
It is not internally on the printer.
Hope this helps.
Have a wonderful day!
Thank You.
Please click “Accept as Solution ” if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution.
Click the “Kudos Thumbs Up" on the right to say “Thanks” for helping!
Gemini02
I work on behalf of HP

PC Component power requirements on a KT3 Ultra-ARU: ANSWERS - At last

G'Day Folk,
First, my PC specs are as below in my sig.
Second, I know this is an old motherboard, but I would like to keep it going, and make the best of it for another year or so. Any help would be greatly appreciated, and would help two other users!
Symptoms:
Minor stability and performance issues, mostly in games, simulators, or doing high resolution photographics processing. I bought three machines with similar specs in 2002, for my brother, father, and myself. Each has had some hard to nail down, intermittent problems. My brother's PC has had a new motherboard and processor after failure of the KT3, but still has some niggling problems. He also has an XP 2600+ running at 65C !
More recently I have been able to reliably reproduce graphics problems in Empire Earth II, Serious Sam, and Halo. Specifically, I can create the problem in an Empire Earth II game by running a saved game and looking at a specific spot on the map. The screen shows tearing, and eventually goes black, returning to normal dispaly when I move to a different part of the map. In certain Halo games I could cause the problem by looking in a specific direction. I assume this is because what is being displayed is using different or more graphics processing features, although it is not apparent what they may be from the content of the view.
Being able to reliably reproduce the problem allowed me to actually analyse the cause.
Diagnosis:
After upgrading all drivers, and trying everything I could think of, as well as everything I could find on the web, especially in this forum, I have narrowed the problem down to the power supply. The clincher for me is that when I create the problem the 3.3Volt power supply line (rail) drops to as low as 2.45Volts! The +5V line also fluctuates and drops as low as 4.81Volt. This was measured using MBM5 and MBM5 Log. The usual voltages reported by MBM5 at idle are +3.3V rail = 2.99 to 3.01 Volt, +5V rail = 4.92 to 4.95 Volt.
Okay, so the +5V rail stays in spec (just), but the +3.3V rail is out of spec (+/- 5%) even at idle. It should be at least 3.135Volt.
I checked the voltages with and without the problem using an analogue volt meter, as software voltage readings are often low. The volt meter is a little slow to respond to the voltage fluctuations, but did confirm that at idle the +3.3V rail was less than 3.1Volt (out of spec), and with the problem occuring, dropped at least to 2.8Volt.
As you can see below my power supply should be able to handle all I throw at it. Topower isn't the greatest brand, but it does receive "satisfactory" in reviews on Tom's Hardware and such. I suspect it (and my brother's and father's) has always been weak, although age, or more powerful games may be highlighting the problem.
Solution:
Get a new power supply.
Not so simple these days, particularly if you want to upgrade in the future, with the move to powering components using the 12Volt rail. I want a power supply that will power my current +3.3V and +5V hungry motherboard, plus future 12V requirements, if possible. So I am doing a Power Audit of my PC, hence . . .
Questions:
I have collected power requirements for most of my components in Ampere by supply voltage. However, details are hard to lock down. I'll jump straight into specific questions.
1. The Athlon XP 2100+ draws a maximum of 89.9Watts into the Voltage Regulator Module (VRM), which converts it to the CPU supply voltage of 1.75Volt. (About 51Amps. Ouch!) If this is sourced from the +12V rail as suggested by the AMD Athlon Desktop Builders Guide, then this would be 7.49Amp, and would not effect the +3.3V and +5V rails unless the total power capacity of the supply is being exceeded. However, the CPU power source was changed from the +3.3V and +5V lines to the +12V lines around the time of the XP2100+. I don't know what MSI did on my motherboard.
Can anyone confirm which voltage rail is used to power the XP 2100+ on the KT3 Ultra ARU motherboard?
2. I have found average power usages for motherboards of around 25 Watt on many web sites, but can't confirm the power used by the KT3. Does anyone know the maximum current (Amps) for each voltage rail from the power supply for this motherboard?
3. Memory power requirements also vary a lot on the web. I'm using 10Watt each on the +3.3V rail for two sticks of 512MB DDR Corsair. Can anybody confirm this, for the KT3? (10W per stick seems to have been the standard since 128MB sticks came out!)
4. I have a GeForce 4 Ti 4600 AGP graphics card. (Okay, it's not an MSI, but the power should be similar across brands.) There are several threads that suggest that this card uses lots of +3.3V and +5V power from the AGP slot. (Wonkanoby?) However, none give actual Amps for each rail. Anybody know?
5. In case anybody knows, I can't find actual power for an Audigy 2 ZS either. Any suggestions?
As modern power supplies tend to have reduced +3.3V and +5V capacity in favour of +12V, I need to be pretty sure of the actual requirements on these rails before buying a new supply. I could just "go and by the biggest Antec I can find and don't worry about it", but I might find that it has the same problems my existing one does.
All help greatly appreciated. Selection of a new PSU could fix three PCs, mine, my brother's, and my father's.
PS: My apologies to those I told that this was a great power supply. Well, it has great specs, and the problems observed couldn't be tied to it until recently. Bummer really.
PPS: Sorry for the long post, but it's an interesting, and important topic, isn't it?
UPDATE: See post on 1st March, 2006 for response from vendors and updated table of component requirements.
Here is a copy of my signature in case I change it in the future, just for context.
MSI KT3 Ultra ARU (MS-6380E V1.0), AMI BIOS 5.7
AMD Athlon XP 2100+ Palomino 1.73GHz @13 x 133 FSB
2x Corsair CMX-512-3000C2 512MB 2-2-2-5-1T @333MHz
Leadtek GeForce4 Ti 4600 Winfast A250 Ultra MyVIVO 128MB (AGP)
Creative Sound Blaster Audigy 2 ZS
2x WD Caviar WD1200JB 120GB 7200RPM 8MB Cache,
each drive enclosed in a Scythe Silent Box Heatlane HDD Enclosure
CD&DVD Plextor PX320A & Pioneer DVR-A09P
Topower PSU 470W PFC 3.3+5V=235W +3.3V/26A, +5V/47A, +12V/28A
mCubed T-Balancer Fan Controller,
multiple quiet fans: Zalman, SilenX, Panaflo, Lian Li blower
Zalman CNPS6000-Cu & ZM-NB32J NB HS
~ 10-20C over ambient
Lian-Li PC-60 Case, WinXP ProSP2+

Try the link below, this will tell you what you need. After you added all you hardware and get the final power result add 50% to this and you will have the proper size P/S needed for your system. You can even make a list of future upgrades you want to do and that way you can see what P/S will work for you now in the present and what you would need in the future, just remember to add 50% to what ever total you add up.
For example, if the P/S calculator says you have a total draw of 279W then you would add 50% to this;
279+50%=418.5
http://www.extreme.outervision.com/index.jsp
Below I have pasted a piece that I made for determing P/S which may help you to;
Resets are a P/S issue and lock-ups are most likely due to your graphic card, with that said I will give you a table with which you can determine the proper P/S for your system and a little info just for info.
I must also add that never trust software to tell you your voltages, this includes the BIOs as the BIOs is just a piece of software. To properly check the voltage one must use a digi-VOM.
A 7200rpm HD draws around 20 watts, this 20 watts includes both the 5v & 12V rail.
HD and CD's generally are figured at 2 Amps per device, let’s brake this down some.
Spin-up: 12V x 1.3A + 5V x 650mA = 19W
Read/Write/Idle: 12V x 350mA + 5V x 700mA = 7.75W
Seek: 12V x 675mA + 5V x 725mA = 12W
Those would be typical for a 7200 rpm IDE drive. As you can see a HD requires more power at start-up then during actual operation. This is why sometimes a PC takes a few tries to start up before it will actually make a successful boot and once it boots to windows all seems well or sometimes a occasional restart, which would indicate a weak/ bad P/S.
Now to find the power used by the CPU you can check either AMD or Intel for the spec sheets on that CPU or you can follow this link that has tons of CPU ratings, CPU specs.
Some more basic mathematics… When a 12-volt circuit is drawing 10 amps, it is consuming 120 WATTS of electrical power. 12 Volts X 10 Amps = 120 WATTS.
This is the formula: P = E x I
P - Watt (power)
E – Voltage (electrical pressure)
I – Amperage (current flow)
Serial/PS-2 ports draw <35mA and if you have USB ports then they have a maximum of 500mA per port, again only if they are used- no use means no draw.
The PCI slots are allowed 5A of the +5V, 0.5A of the +12V and 7.6A of the 3.3V Max per slot, again that is if the slots are used. So if the serial ports, PS-2 and USB ports are being used you are looking at around 5A draw on the MB, which would be around 20 Watts.
So now we can add things up. (This is just an example of a basic system)
MB=20W
CPU= 60W, used as a norm.
HD=20W
CDRW=25W
DVD=20W
Graphic card=15W / newer GF4 and ATI 9000 and up= 35W
RAM 10 Watts per 128 MB
Network Card 5 Watts
Average per PCI Card 8 Watts
Total around 200W for this example.
Now this will fall on different rails and that is were things get tricky, because as you see in my above break down of the HD that a HD use's both the 12V & 5V rail. This is why it is important that the 12V rail be at least 18 Amps if you plan on having more then 1 HD and case fans. Then you have the 3.3V & 5V rails that need to be strong too, the 3.3v rail is actually not so important with newer DDR MB and today’s CPU’s as it is mainly supplying the PS-2 ports power as well as some device cards. Most newer MB use the 5v and 12v rails mainly to supply the demands of today’s devices.
Now this 200W is the bare min what is needed for things to run but in the real world you will want to add 50% to the 200W for your min P/S need, this allows room for spikes and heavy demands and a little head room to add hardware in the future.

How to calculate power in specific frequency band

Hi Everyone. I have been trolling on here for months but this is my first post so I hope I am putting this in the correct place.
What I am trying to do is simple in theory but I have tried over and over and am having no luck in getting this to work. I wish to calculate the power in specific frequency bands for heart rate variability analysis.
Referring to the article "Using LabVIEW for Heart Rate Variability Analysis" http://zone.ni.com/devzone/cda/epd/p/id/5832 I am aware of the steps I need to follow.
I have plotted the RR intervals and resampled these with cubic spline interpolation to give a nice time dependent series. I then wire this to a PSD VI and this is where I am out of my depth.
I know from the above article that I am looking for power in these frequency bands
VLF
ms2
Power from 0–0.04 Hz.
LF
ms2
Power from 0.04–0.15 Hz.
HF
ms2
Power from 0.15–0.4 Hz.
The NI Biomedical Startup kit can do these, however I am unable to look into the source code as I do not have some required plugins in my installation. I have LabVIEW 8.6 full development system.
As this is not my area there is a steep learning curve and I have read many forum posts and pages but am still unsure of what I need to do here.
It is my understanding that the frequency resolution is simply the sample rate/number of samples. So if I require a resolution of 0.01Hz then theoretically 100Hz sample rate and 10,000samples would give me this.Furthermore I gather that the size of the output array from the PSD VI is equal to the # of data points (This i have just noticed from trial and error so I may be wrong).
Therefore if I am using the above values then is it correct that PSD would return an array and all I need to do is simply sum the contents of those array elements to get the power?
For example if frequency resolution is 0.01 , then to get power from 0-0.04Hz I must simply add the first 4 elements in the PSD output array?
I have made a test VI to show what I am talking about and attached it to this post.
Some feedback on the required approach would be a lifesaver here. I have purchased a couple of books and read through pages of forum posts but am still having trouble with this.
Many thanks!
Attachments:
labviewhelp.jpg ‏53 KB

Sorry about that, I didn't realize you wanted to run the code too The VI was doing a bunch of other stuff so I have tried to clean that out and just leave the relevant bit. As mentioned above, the case block executes when a peak is detected in the data and appends this value to an array.
I am using the technique of resampling the data because this is what was mentioned in this http://zone.ni.com/devzone/cda/epd/p/id/5832 and also in another reference that I have been following titled "Heart Rate Variability Standards of Measurement, Physiological Interpretation, and Clinical Use" http://circ.ahajournals.org/cgi/content/full/93/5/1043 which states
"The spectrum of the HRV signal is generally calculated eitherfrom the RR interval tachogram (RR durations versus number ofprogressive beats; see Fig 5a,b) or by interpolating the DES,thus obtaining a continuous signal as a function of time, orby calculating the spectrum of the counts–unitary pulsesas a function of time corresponding to each recognized QRS complex.35Such a choice may have implications on the morphology, themeasurement units of the spectra, and the measurement of therelevant spectral parameters. To standardize the methods used,the use of RR interval tachogram with the parametric method,or the use of the regularly sampled interpolation of DES withthe nonparametric method may be suggested; nevertheless, regularlysampled interpolation of DES is also suitable for parametricmethods. The sampling frequency of interpolation of DES mustbe sufficiently high that the Nyquist frequency of the spectrumis not within the frequency range of interest."
Attachments:
Exp-PulseOximeter.vi ‏205 KB

Latest iMac: USB power requirements unclear, Microsoft USB game pad stopped working

Hello,
I am sorry that the cut and paste information is in German.
I am a long time Apple iMac user and used the Game Pad since years with no USB power issues.
Now, I have just received my late 2014 iMac with Maverick OS X.
Hardware-Übersicht:
Modellname: iMac
Modell-Identifizierung: iMac15,1
Prozessortyp: Intel Core i7
Prozessorgeschwindigkeit: 4 GHz
Anzahl der Prozessoren: 1
Gesamtanzahl der Kerne: 4
L2-Cache (pro Kern): 256 KB
L3-Cache: 8 MB
Speicher: 16 GB
Boot-ROM-Version: IM151.0207.B00
SMC-Version (System): 2.23f11
Ever since, I cannot use my Microsoft USB Game Controller any more.
Controller:
Produkt-ID: 0x028e
Hersteller-ID: 0x045e (Microsoft Corporation)
Version: 1.14
Seriennummer: 075841A
Geschwindigkeit: Bis zu 12 MBit/s
Hersteller: ©Microsoft Corporation
Standort-ID: 0x14600000 / 16
Verfügbare Stromstärke (mA): 500
Erforderliche Stromstärke (mA): Unbekannt (Gerät wurde nicht konfiguriert) <--- Device unknown, and not configured. The power requirements are unclear.
What can I do to get the USB controller accepted again? I have a 3rd party OS X driver that does work for me. I'd assume, this issue is at the HW layer, during boot-up and initial hand shake, not a SW driver's issue.
Sincerely,
Michael

I guess I should have read the forum first. I zapped the pram and everything seems back to normal. Sorry for not trying this 1st. Issue solved.

Specific Power Requirements For iPods?

+(Yes I searched, no I didn't find this information.)+
I am looking for specific power requirements for multiple iPod models; 1st-Generation iPod touch, 5th-Generation 80GB Video, 3rd & 4th-Generation iPod nano, and 2nd-Generation Shuffle, to be precise.
I am not looking for the obvious information found on the Apple site, such as charge times and USB vs. FireWire. I need more accurate data such as exact mAh and wattage input requirements for each iPod. I know I have chargers that will satisfy the needs of the nanos and 80GB but leave the 1st-Gen touch wanting and waiting for more. At the same time, I do not wish to overload the smaller iPod models like the shuffle.
I have searched Apple.com and the Apple forums as well as Google, but I cannot find this information anywhere.
Please help! I am trying to find suitable alternate power supplies such as solar, crank, and AA/AAA-battery backup sources and I want one that will work with all of my current iPods and hopefully future iPod purchases as well (to include many current iPods). Thank you!

I don't have the info you need on the iPods.
But I have an AC charger bought originally to use with another brand of mp3 player. After I got my iPod, I didn't see the point in buying another AC charger if it would work with iPod, since the company (Griffintechnology) also makes some for iPods. (Of course, I would have to switch out the USB cable to the one that works with iPod, but that's easy enough.) I couldn't find the info on their web site or on Apple's, so I emailed Griffin, and they told me it was safe to use with the iPod. So far, so good.
So I would suggest emailing the maker of the chargers you already own, to check on compatibility. I know Griffin makes them, as does DLO. As far as AA/AAA rechargers, we recently got one from www.adrenalinetechnologies.com (haven't yet used it, though) that's supposed to work with multiple iPod models, and they have multiple adapters and such for different things.

Apple TV-3 input voltage

Hello All, I will be carrying my Apple TV to Singapore as I am being deputed there for an year. The power supply in Singapre is 230V AC as against the 110V AC in USA. Will Apple TV-3 work on a 230VAC power source or do I need to invest in a 230VAC to 110VAC converter ?
Thanks in advance... Matt

Welcome to the Apple Community.
The voltage won't make any difference, the Apple TV has a universal power supply, you may need an adaptor to accommodate a different plug type though.

Where can i find a apple 45w power adapter?

I don't know exactly where to find an apple 45w power adapter! Our Apple Store here is always busy so I never get any help there! If you can help me please reply!!!

thank you that was helpful but i don't have a credit card to buy one off the internet and ebay requires a credit card. thany you again though

Apple AC Power Plug

I have an Apple AC power adaptor to USB which works on both US and European current. I recently bought a Palm Z22 organizer which came with a US only AC power adaptor. Can I use the Apple power plug with the Z22 in Europe. The Apple power plug output is labeled '5v 1 amp' and the Z22 power adaptor output is labeled '5.2v 500 Ma' Since both devices charge from the same computer's USB port I would think that the Apple adaptor would work with the Palm device without any damage.
Thanks in Advance

Ya the issue with cheaper no name USB chargers is they may have a bare bones cheap voltage regulator in them (or worse nothing more than Diode dropping means of getting to 5V) and therefore may not regulate well giving large voltage spikes.
Name brand ones, especially Apple's version and ones from large known companies like Griffin, Palm, Belkin, etc. can usually be trusted to be safe for your devices.
Sometimes it is well worth the money to get the $19.95 brand name one over the $4.95 eBay version for this reason.
Patrick

Apple tv power cable

how can i know if the apple tv power cable is 110v or 220v before purchasing it?
Thank You

No such thing as a 110v or 220v cable as has been said. Also the Apple Tv comes with a built-in universal power supply, which means it can take any voltage. All you would need is a plug adapter to connect it to your particular wall socket.

Power supply voltage for using PoE splitters

Dear Community
What is the power supply voltage for Apple TV 3?
Power consumption has been specified on the Apple product site, but not the power supply voltage.
Should be 5, 9 or 12 Volt.
Thanks!

http://docs-europe.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/0d88/0900766b80d88153.pdf
Every Expert was once a Beginner!!

Power Requirement for AP 1500

Hi Sir,
I found the following from Mesh 1500 datasheet for its power requirement,
95?260 VAC, 47?63 Hz
Power over Ethernet: 48 VDC, +/?10 percent
However, my contractor requested me to give him in Watt as UPS is provided to it. Can anyone show me the formula to do so?
Thank you.
Delon

The basic rule of physics that "watts = volts x amps" is based on direct current (DC) circuits. AC is more efficient but when it hits the transformers, it suffers from reactance.
Reactance reduces the useful power (watts) available from the apparent power (volt-amperes). Power Factor (PF) is the ratio of these two numbers. Therefore, the actual power formula for AC circuits is "watts = volts x amps x power factor." Unfortunately, the PF is rarely stated but generally is a number of 1.0 or less, and about the only thing with a 1.0 PF is a light bulb.
Figure out total loading of product Amps (A) Watts (W).
Multiply voltage by amps (V x A).
VA x 135%= the size of the UPS you would need.
* Estimated Average Growing Space 135%
(Amps)
A. Ex: 1 PC= 2A 1 Monitor=1.5A, Total= 3.5A
3.5A x 120V= 420VA x 130%= 546VA.
B. Ex: 1 DVR = 300 Watts, 5 CCTV = 350 Watts, Total = 650 Watts
W = P.F. x VA, Direct UPS JP X series P.F = 0.7 & VP series = 0.6
650 W = 0.7 x VA , VA =650w/0.7, Total Loading = 929VA
Right size UPS: 929 VA x 135% = 1254VA.
The recommended size UPS for example a. is 600VA
The recommended size UPS for example b. is 1400VA

Help : power supply- voltage regulator

Thank you for all those that have replied me towards this power supply. In particular Lacy and Kittmaster.
I have developed a basic voltage regulator . However, I want to get a power supply that can deliver like 60V, and take about 10A current, because that what the load will require.
The regulator I have developed only delivers about 20V, I use the formula Vo = (R2/R3 + 1) * Vref. where my Vref is now 10V ( 2 zener diode). Even when I tried to decrease the resistance of R3, it does not make a difference.
Any help will be appreciated.
Attachments:
Power Supply Voltage Regulator.ms9 ‏1107 KB

O.K. I believe I have got it. There was a 2 fold problem with your regualtor and I will outline them below.
1) For some reason I could not get the 3-terminal Virtual Op Amps to work in this circuit. I traded that out for the 5 Terminal one. It is the very last one in the list of the Virtual category.
2) You are comparing your voltage from the bridge to your output voltage. If you have your input referenced to 10V and your output dviding this by a factor of 2 then once the voltage at the divider junction reaches 10V then the op amp will stop driving the transistor. Therefore you are only going to get 20V Out (ref*2 since both resitors are equal in value)). Therefore, you have to have your input reference to what you want the output to be. In this case 60V is what you want so you have 30V at the divider junction (Vo/2 since both resitors are equal value) your input reference would have to be 30V. I have never heard of a 30V Zener (they may exist, but it seems to me tha they would have to be quite large). so you may have to use a voltage divider on the input side instead.
It is my opinion that the design of this regulator is not going to work for you in reality if you decide to build it. The 2N2904 I I know is not going to handle 10A in reality. Based upon my findings I don't even know if you are going to be able to use an op-amp as the error amp due to the amount of voltage that has to be tied into it.You may be able to find such an op-amp but you will have to do some research to find one. I think most of the op amps in Multisim are low voltage in the range of 5VDC-22VDC. I would suggest looking on the internet and see if I could find a better alternative that uses more robust components or if you definitely want to design this on your own, reasearching the components in Multisim to see if any of them can handle the voltage and current requirements.
I hope this helps and I haven't confused you in any way
Message Edited by lacy on 10-06-2007 02:24 PM
Kittmaster's Component Database
http://ni.kittmaster.com
Have a Nice Day

MSI K8N Neo4 SLI Platinum power requirements

Is it true that it needs a -5v rail on the PSU in order to properly power the onboard SB live?

The 12 volt and 5 volt rail are allowed a 10% tolerence and on very high end PSU they actually go 5%.
12 volt +/- 10%= 13.2 max and 10.8 min
12 volt +/- 5%= 12.6 max and 11.4 min.
The biggest mistake you can make is using software to check voltages. Software and BIO (BIO is just software) readings are not accurate.
The only way to see what is really going on is to backprobe your P/S connector or a molex cable while system is booting, running and then under load using a multimeter.
I will include a little thing that I made up a few years ago for someone else, mind that it is a few years old but most of the ratings still hold true and you can adjust it to meet your needs. Like a few others I think that might have memory issues or maybe a driver problem.
Here it is then:
A 7200rpm HD draws around 20 watts, this 20 watts includes both the 5v & 12V rail.
HD and CD's generally are figured at 2 Amps per device, let’s brake this down some.
Spin-up: 12V x 1.3A + 5V x 650mA = 19W
Read/Write/Idle: 12V x 350mA + 5V x 700mA = 7.75W
Seek: 12V x 675mA + 5V x 725mA = 12W
Those would be typical for a 7200 rpm IDE drive. As you can see a HD requires more power at start-up then during actual operation. This is why sometimes a PC takes a few tries to start up before it will actually make a successful boot and once it boots to windows all seems well or sometimes a occasional restart, which would indicate a weak/ bad P/S.
Now to find the power used by the CPU you can check either AMD or Intel for the spec sheets on that CPU or you can follow this link that has tons of CPU ratings, CPU specs.
Some more basic mathematics… When a 12-volt circuit is drawing 10 amps, it is consuming 120 WATTS of electrical power. 12 Volts X 10 Amps = 120 WATTS.
This is the formula: P = E x I
P - Watt (power)
E – Voltage (electrical pressure)
I – Amperage (current flow)
Serial/PS-2 ports draw <35mA and if you have USB ports then they have a maximum of 500mA per port, again only if they are used- no use means no draw.
The PCI slots are allowed 5A of the +5V, 0.5A of the +12V and 7.6A of the 3.3V Max per slot, again that is if the slots are used. So if the serial ports, PS-2 and USB ports are being used you are looking at around 5A draw on the MB, which would be around 20 Watts.
So now we can add things up. (This is just an example of a basic system)
MB=20W
CPU= 60W, used as a norm.
HD=20W
CDRW=25W
DVD=20W
Graphic card=15W / newer GF4 and ATI 9000 and up= 35W
RAM 10 Watts per 128 MB
Network Card 5 Watts
Average per PCI Card 8 Watts
Total around 200W for this example.
Now this will fall on different rails and that is were things get tricky, because as you see in my above break down of the HD that a HD use's both the 12V & 5V rail. This is why it is important that the 12V rail be at least 18 Amps if you plan on having more then 1 HD and case fans. Then you have the 3.3V & 5V rails that need to be strong too, the 3.3v rail is actually not so important with newer DDR MB and today’s CPU’s as it is mainly supplying the PS-2 ports power as well as some device cards. Most newer MB use the 5v and 12v rails mainly to supply the demands of today’s devices.
Now this 200W is the bare min what is needed for things to run but in the real world you will want to add 50% to the 200W for your min P/S need, this allows room for spikes and heavy demands and a little head room to add hardware in the future.

Power requirements for surge protector?

I want to get a surge protector that will support the power requirements of a Macpro and a 30-inch cinema display. I would also like it for an Airport Extreme and an external FW drive, though those are not as important for being on the same outlet, they can be on a different one if necessary. What should I look for in terms of power ratings, etc.
Thanks!

Stanwelks,
I sit near a forest of cables and had that problem. The instruction books on the Display and the Macpro have information enabling you to work out the Amperage they use. One can derive amperage from a stated wattage knowing your voltage. I know mine I don't know yours. Here in UK most residential wall sockets take up to 13 Amps. Most plug blocks say they are good for 13 Amps. So in the train it is the smallest capacity of link, socket or plug block , that matters.
I had to put some devices (the display and MacPro were the worst 'offenders', on a separate wall socket linked to my 'lair' by a long cable. There was slight leeway to the 13Amps so a printer (seemingly of low amperage) is added.
The other things you mention are small amperage but check. It is a good idea to work out the amperage of each device you have if you can.

Apple TV power requirement - Voltage/Frequency

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