Best bluray player fot mac book pro

Which bluray player is considered best for mac book pro/retina and which additional software is best to mainly play bluray movies?

Macgo Mac Blu-ray player is the world's first software for Mac to play Blu-ray and until now it could support all the Mac models and systems. It has been very popular among Mac users and recommended by many famous website.

Similar Messages

Best upgrades on a mac book pro for gaming

hello I have a mac book pro and it is five years old but just recently it had a virus and it erased my mac completely. I went to the apple store and they said to get a new hard dive I am an avid gamer and I want to know what are the best upgrades to make my games run smoother and when I use steam it cant always connect and when I am on a skype call while I am gaming I get horrible FPS and it is around 7 to 8 and i Really want to get it back up to 50 but at the least 35 because it is just no fun when you cant play and talk Please Help me. ( I also at the moment cant install mavericks or any software like that until my Hard Drive is replaced because it cant validate destination. So I have listed the last software I was running before the virus.)

I cant do anything at the moment the virus took out all the software and the apple guys tried and tried and the computer is now considered vintage but it cant validate the location to put the software on and my mac is my backup computer my alienware 17 is being fixed plus i am at a boarding school so i cant to much except when I go home on the weekends I can record videos then but when I am at school I cant record because although would this help my computer at all here is the link.
http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-Laptop-Memory-CMSX8GX3M2A1600C9/dp/B006E WUOL8

Adobe flash player update mac book pro

why can Adobe flash player update no more on my mac book pro?

Uninstall Flash.
http://helpx.adobe.com/flash-player/kb/uninstall-flash-player-mac-os.html
Reinstall Adobe Flash.
http://get.adobe.com/flashplayer/
Security turned on?
System Preferences > Security
Select App store & identified developers
Enable Plug-ins.
Safari > Preferences > Security > Web content:
Make sure that "Enable plug-ins" are selected.

HT2499 My DVD player on Mac Book Pro is immediately ejecting the DVD. What could be causing this problem? The DVD is brand new and just out of its packing.

I just bought a brand new DVD, but my Mac Book Pro is automatically ejecting it when I put it in to play. Any ideas what the problem could be and how to fix it?
Thanks! Aingeala

Do other DVDs load?
CD/DVD Loading Problems
CD/DVD Drive - Troubleshooting
CD/DVD Drive - Troubleshooting (2)

Adobe flash player for mac book pro

Hi, This is my first mac book but i need help to download & use adobe flash player to watch some of our streaming videos. Need advice.
Thanks
bpsai

Get it from http://get.adobe.com/flashplayer/ - always download it from here. If you get popups or any sort of notice that you need to update it, don't follow it (mostly it's OK but there have been some malware doing this) - always go to the Adobe site

Best back up for Mac Book Pro

Hi Guys,
Having recently made the big step of purchasing a MacBook Pro I am all over the moon about it (really not sure why I hesitated for such along time). I don't want this to become a nightmare of losing some of my data etc. and wanna get a good and easy backup system. Had a look through the Apple Store for their backup system but not quite sure which one is the best one. Obviously the Time Capsule would be the preferred one but didn't want to spend that kind of money.
Can you suggest any other good and easy to use backup system? Thought about spending around £80.00.
Thanks.
K.

Basic Backup
Get an external Firewire drive at least equal in size to the internal hard drive and make (and maintain) a bootable clone/backup. You can make a bootable clone using the Restore option of Disk Utility. You can also make and maintain clones with good backup software. My personal recommendations are (order is not significant):
1. Retrospect Desktop (Commercial - not yet universal binary)
2. Synchronize! Pro X (Commercial)
3. Synk (Backup, Standard, or Pro)
4. Deja Vu (Shareware)
5. Carbon Copy Cloner (Donationware)
6. SuperDuper! (Commercial)
7. Intego Personal Backup (Commercial)
8. Data Backup (Commercial)
9. SilverKeeper 2.0 (Freeware)
10. MimMac (Commercial)
The following utilities can also be used for backup, but cannot create bootable clones:
1. Backup (requires a .Mac account with Apple both to get the software and to use it.)
2. Toast
3. Impression
4. arRSync
Apple's Backup is a full backup tool capable of also backing up across multiple media such as CD/DVD. However, it cannot create bootable backups. It is primarily an "archiving" utility as are the other two.
Impression and Toast are disk image based backups, only. Particularly useful if you need to backup to CD/DVD across multiple media.
Visit The XLab FAQs and read the FAQ on backup and restore. Also read How to Back Up and Restore Your Files.
Although you can buy a complete FireWire drive system, you can also put one together if you are so inclined. It's relatively easy and only requires a Phillips head screwdriver (typically.) You can purchase hard drives separately. This gives you an opportunity to shop for the best prices on a hard drive of your choice. Reliable brands include Seagate, Hitachi, Western Digital, Toshiba, and Fujitsu. You can find reviews and benchmarks on many drives at Storage Review.
Enclosures for FireWire and USB are readily available. You can find only FireWire enclosures, only USB enclosures, and enclosures that feature multiple ports. I would stress getting enclosures that use the Oxford chipsets (911, 921, 922, for example.) You can find enclosures at places such as;
Cool Drives
OWC
WiebeTech
Firewire Direct
California Drives
NewEgg
All you need do is remove a case cover, mount the hard drive in the enclosure and connect the cables, then re-attach the case cover. Usually the only tool required is a small or medium Phillips screwdriver.

Installing flash player in Mac Book Pro

I been trying to download unsuccessfully the late version of the Adobe Flash Player, but the software get stuck on 27% download.
I'm running OS X 10.10.2 in a MacBook Pro i5 with 16Gb of memory.
Please advise a solution.
Thank you in advance
[email protected]

It would be in your interest to rid the MBP of the Trend Micro AV. You do not need it and it may be hindering performance. View this web site to determine what dangers there really are:
http://www.thesafemac.com/
Ciao.

Mac Book Pro & travelling

Hi
Could anyone advice me how it is best to protect my Mac Book Pro while travelling?
I need software which does not allow people to get to my computer/operating system if stolen. Any good software for this? Also locks, other security - do you have any advice on this?
What about altitude - does Mac Book Pro handle altitude at all? Also - I will be going to cold and remote areas, any idea how to protect my laptop then? Thanks for all info my friends!

Be aware that no matter what you do, if the machine is stolen, they can get at any unencrypted data by simply reinstalling the OS or removing the hard disk and putting it in an external case.
If you have truly truly sensitive data you don't want people to get at, use Disk Utility (/Applications/Utilities) to create a "Disk Image" This is basically a file that when open, mounts a new volume on your desktop. You have likely used Disk Images when receiving software off the internet. They have an extension of .DMG.
Once in Disk Utility, Click the "+ New Image" icon in the toolbar. A Save sheet will open. At the top, name your disk image, like "Super Secret Drive" into any folder you want, like your Documents folder. This file will be named "Super Secret Drive.dmg" Now, lower in the sheet dialog, you need to name the volume (ie drive) that will appear when you open the disk image. This can be the same, "Super Secret Drive" for example, or something simpler. For now we'll name it differently to avoid confusion, such as "Data"
For the volume size, choose some size that you think will be able to hold your data, such as 100mb. Since I used this technique ONLY for very sensitive data (text files of friend's home security passwords, Quicken Files, etc) I don't usually make this very big.
Now in the encryption section, choose 256bit AES.
Click Create, enter a password, and if you are truly concerned, don't even save the password in your keychain, but this is really not necessary. A new disk image file will be saved in Documents and the the disk "Data" will mount and show on your desktop under Macintosh HD.
Now you can just save your secret data to the Data volume. When you are done with it, eject "Data" like you would a CD-ROM. The next time you need to use your data, open the "Super Secret Disk.dmg" file to mount "Data"
You can even drag "Super Secret Disk.dmg" into your Login Items in the Accounts preferences so it mounts whenever you log in.
Why all of this work? Because if your machine is stolen (and you are not logged in and using it at the time), then even if they rip the disk out and look at it externally, all they will see is a file named "Super Secret Data" but everything on that disk will be encrypted. Without your password, there will be little they can do to get at it.
This is basically what the "File Vault" security option does, but instead of doing it for your entire home directory, it just protects the files you choose to save onto the Data volume.
You can't easily change the size of "Data" later, so pick a size that will hold all of your data for the forseeable future, and really only put data there that you don't want people to ever see. Mail.app can't save it's mail there, for example, but for other stuff, spreadsheets, word documents that are sensitive, etc, it is a fine approach.
Also make sure you back up regularly, and if you ever get disk corruption on a disk image, Alsoft's DiskWarrior is a fine tool at fixing them.

Best virus and hacker protection for mac book pro?

What is the best protection for my back book pro against hackers and virus?

Mac users often ask whether they should install "anti-virus" software. The answer usually given on ASC is "no." The answer is right, but it may give the wrong impression that there is no threat from what are loosely called "viruses." There is a threat, and you need to educate yourself about it.
1. This is a comment on what you should—and should not—do to protect yourself from malicious software ("malware") that circulates on the Internet and gets onto a computer as an unintended consequence of the user's actions. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the computer, or who has been able to take control of it remotely. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it.
The comment is long because the issue is complex. The key points are in sections 5, 6, and 10.
OS X now implements three layers of built-in protection specifically against malware, not counting runtime protections such as execute disable, sandboxing, system library randomization, and address space layout randomization that may also guard against other kinds of exploits.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user. Internally Apple calls it "XProtect."
The malware recognition database used by XProtect is automatically updated; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
☞ It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets.
☞ It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
As new versions of OS X are released, it's not clear whether Apple will indefinitely continue to maintain the XProtect database of older versions such as 10.6. The security of obsolete system versions may eventually be degraded. Security updates to the code of obsolete systems will stop being released at some point, and that may leave them open to other kinds of attack besides malware.
3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been a second layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't necessarily been tested by Apple, but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. That may not mean much if the developer lives in a country with a weak legal system (see below.)
Gatekeeper doesn't depend on a database of known malware. It has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
☞ It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
☞ A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could simply ignore the consequences of distributing codesigned malware.
☞ An App Store developer could find a way to bypass Apple's oversight, or the oversight could fail due to human error.
Apple has taken far too long to revoke the codesigning certificates of some known abusers, thereby diluting the value of Gatekeeper and the Developer ID program. Those lapses don't involve App Store products, however.
For the reasons given, App Store products, and—to a lesser extent—other applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed, are safer than others, but they can't be considered absolutely safe. "Sandboxed" applications may prompt for access to private data, such as your contacts, or for access to the network. Think before granting that access. Sandbox security is based on user input. Never click through any request for authorization without thinking.
4. Starting with OS X 10.8.3, a third layer of protection has been added: a "Malware Removal Tool" (MRT). MRT runs automatically in the background when you update the OS. It checks for, and removes, malware that may have evaded the other protections via a Java exploit (see below.) MRT also runs when you install or update the Apple-supplied Java runtime (but not the Oracle runtime.) Like XProtect, MRT is effective against known threats, but not against unknown ones. It notifies you if it finds malware, but otherwise there's no user interface to MRT.
5. The built-in security features of OS X reduce the risk of malware attack, but they are not, and never will be, complete protection. Malware is a problem of human behavior, not machine behavior, and no technological fix alone is going to solve it. Trusting software to protect you will only make you more vulnerable.
The best defense is always going to be your own intelligence. With the possible exception of Java exploits, all known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "Trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and Internet criminals. If you're better informed than they think you are, you'll win. That means, in practice, that you always stay within a safe harbor of computing practices. How do you know when you're leaving the safe harbor? Below are some warning signs of danger.
Software from an untrustworthy source
☞ Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, doesn't come directly from the developer’s website. Do not trust an alert from any website to update Flash, or your browser, or any other software. A genuine alert that Flash is outdated and blocked is shown on this support page. Follow the instructions on the support page in that case. Otherwise, assume that the alert is fake and someone is trying to scam you into installing malware. If you see such alerts on more than one website, ask for instructions.
☞ Software of any kind is distributed via BitTorrent, or Usenet, or on a website that also distributes pirated music or movies.
☞ Rogue websites such as Softonic, Soft32, and CNET Download distribute free applications that have been packaged in a superfluous "installer."
☞ The software is advertised by means of spam or intrusive web ads. Any ad, on any site, that includes a direct link to a download should be ignored.
Software that is plainly illegal or does something illegal
☞ High-priced commercial software such as Photoshop is "cracked" or "free."
☞ An application helps you to infringe copyright, for instance by circumventing the copy protection on commercial software, or saving streamed media for reuse without permission. All "YouTube downloaders" are in this category, though not all are necessarily malicious.
Conditional or unsolicited offers from strangers
☞ A telephone caller or a web page tells you that you have a “virus” and offers to help you remove it. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
☞ A web site offers free content such as video or music, but to use it you must install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "downloader," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one.
☞ You win a prize in a contest you never entered.
☞ Someone on a message board such as this one is eager to help you, but only if you download an application of his choosing.
☞ A "FREE WI-FI !!!" network advertises itself in a public place such as an airport, but is not provided by the management.
☞ Anything online that you would expect to pay for is "free."
Unexpected events
☞ A file is downloaded automatically when you visit a web page, with no other action on your part. Delete any such file without opening it.
☞ You open what you think is a document and get an alert that it's "an application downloaded from the Internet." Click Cancel and delete the file. Even if you don't get the alert, you should still delete any file that isn't what you expected it to be.
☞ An application does something you don't expect, such as asking for permission to access your contacts, your location, or the Internet for no obvious reason.
☞ Software is attached to email that you didn't request, even if it comes (or seems to come) from someone you trust.
I don't say that leaving the safe harbor just once will necessarily result in disaster, but making a habit of it will weaken your defenses against malware attack. Any of the above scenarios should, at the very least, make you uncomfortable.
6. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was always a bad idea, and Java's developers have proven themselves incapable of implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style virus affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful.
Fortunately, client-side Java on the Web is obsolete and mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice. Forget about playing games or other non-essential uses of Java.
Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it—not JavaScript—in your browsers.
Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a task on a specific site, enable Java only for that site in Safari. Never enable Java for a public website that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, login-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a padlock icon in the address bar when visiting a secure site.
Stay within the safe harbor, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can practically be. The rest of this comment concerns what you should not do to protect yourself.
7. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" (AV) or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they are all worse than useless. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use one of the free security apps in the Mac App Store—nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial AV products?
☞ To recognize malware, the software depends on a database of known threats, which is always at least a day out of date. This technique is a proven failure, as a major AV software vendor has admitted. Most attacks are "zero-day"—that is, previously unknown. Recognition-based AV does not defend against such attacks, and the enterprise IT industry is coming to the realization that traditional AV software is worthless.
☞ Its design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere. In order to meet that nonexistent threat, commercial AV software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
☞ By modifying the operating system, the software may also create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
☞ Most importantly, a false sense of security is dangerous.
8. An AV product from the App Store, such as "ClamXav," has the same drawback as the commercial suites of being always out of date, but it does not inject low-level code into the operating system. That doesn't mean it's entirely harmless. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
An AV app is not needed, and cannot be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful, if at all, only for detecting Windows malware, and even for that use it's not really effective, because new Windows malware is emerging much faster than OS X malware.
Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else. A malicious attachment in email is usually easy to recognize by the name alone. An actual example:
London Terror Moovie.avi [124 spaces] Checked By Norton Antivirus.exe
You don't need software to tell you that's a Windows trojan. Software may be able to tell you which trojan it is, but who cares? In practice, there's no reason to use recognition software unless an organizational policy requires it. Windows malware is so widespread that you should assume it's in every email attachment until proven otherwise. Nevertheless, ClamXav or a similar product from the App Store may serve a purpose if it satisfies an ill-informed network administrator who says you must run some kind of AV application. It's free and it won't handicap the system.
The ClamXav developer won't try to "upsell" you to a paid version of the product. Other developers may do that. Don't be upsold. For one thing, you should not pay to protect Windows users from the consequences of their choice of computing platform. For another, a paid upgrade from a free app will probably have all the disadvantages mentioned in section 7.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.
10. As a Mac user, you don't have to live in fear that your computer may be infected every time you install software, read email, or visit a web page. But neither can you assume that you will always be safe from exploitation, no matter what you do. Navigating the Internet is like walking the streets of a big city. It can be as safe or as dangerous as you choose to make it. The greatest harm done by security software is precisely its selling point: it makes people feel safe. They may then feel safe enough to take risks from which the software doesn't protect them. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices.

What is the best utility for mac book pro 10.10.2

What is the best utility/ antivirus program for a mac book pro running 10.10.2.

Drewski66 wrote:
What is the best utility/ antivirus program for a mac book pro running 10.10.2.
Nothing that is not already incorporated in OS X 10.10.2.
There will always be threats to your information security associated with using any Internet - connected communications tool:
You can mitigate those threats by following commonsense practices
Delegating that responsibility to software is an ineffective defense
Assuming that any product will protect you from those threats is a hazardous attitude that is likely to result in neglecting point #1 above.
OS X already includes everything it needs to protect itself from viruses and malware. Keep it that way with software updates from Apple.
A much better question is "how should I protect my Mac":
Never install any product that claims to "clean up", "speed up", "optimize", "boost" or "accelerate" your Mac; to "wash" it, "tune" it, or to make it "shiny". Those claims are absurd.Such products are very aggressively marketed. They are all scams.
Never install pirated or "cracked" software, software obtained from dubious websites, or other questionable sources.
Illegally obtained software is almost certain to contain malware.
"Questionable sources" include but are not limited to spontaneously appearing web pages or popups, download hosting sites such as C net dot com, Softonic dot com, Soft pedia dot com, Download dot com, Mac Update dot com, or any other site whose revenue is primarily derived from junk product advertisements.
If you need to install software that isn't available from the Mac App Store, obtain it only from legitimate sources authorized by the software's developer.
Don’t supply your password in response to a popup window requesting it, unless you know what it is and the reason your credentials are required.
Don’t open email attachments from email addresses that you do not recognize, or click links contained in an email:
Most of these are scams that direct you to fraudulent sites that attempt to convince you to disclose personal information.
Such "phishing" attempts are the 21st century equivalent of a social exploit that has existed since the dawn of civilization. Don’t fall for it.
Apple will never ask you to reveal personal information in an email. If you receive an unexpected email from Apple saying your account will be closed unless you take immediate action, just ignore it. If your iCloud, iTunes, or App Store account becomes disabled for valid reasons, you will know when you try to buy something or log in to this support site, and are unable to.
Don’t install browser extensions unless you understand their purpose:Go to the Safari menu > Preferences > Extensions. If you see any extensions that you do not recognize or understand, simply click the Uninstall button and they will be gone.
Don’t install Java unless you are certain that you need it:
Java, a non-Apple product, is a potential vector for malware. If you are required to use Java, be mindful of that possibility.
Java can be disabled in System Preferences.
Despite its name JavaScript is unrelated to Java. No malware can infect your Mac through JavaScript. It’s OK to leave it enabled.
The same precaution applies to Adobe Flash Player. Newly discovered Flash vulnerabilities appear almost weekly.
Beware spontaneous popups: Safari menu > Preferences > Security > check "Block popup windows".
Popup windows are useful and required for some websites, but unsolicited popups are commonly used to deceive people into installing unwanted software they would never intentionally install.
Popups themselves cannot infect your Mac, but many contain resource-hungry code that will slow down Internet browsing.
If you ever receive a popup window indicating that your Mac is infected with some ick or that you won some prize, it is 100% fraudulent. Ignore it.
The same goes for a spontaneously appearing dialog insisting that you upgrade your video player right this instant. Such popups are frequently associated with sites that promise to deliver "free" movies or other copyrighted content that is not normally "free".
The more insistent it is that you upgrade or install something, the more likely it is to be a scam. Close the window or tab and forget it.
Ignore hyperventilating popular media outlets that thrive by promoting fear and discord with entertainment products arrogantly presented as "news". Learn what real threats actually exist and how to arm yourself against them:
The most serious threat to your data security is phishing. Most of these attempts are pathetic and are easily recognized, but that hasn't stopped prominent public figures from recently succumbing to this age-old scam.
OS X viruses do not exist, but intentionally malicious or poorly written code, created by either nefarious or inept individuals, is nothing new.
Never install something without first knowing what it is, what it does, how it works, and how to get rid of it when you don’t want it any more.
If you elect to use "anti-virus" software, familiarize yourself with its limitations and potential to cause adverse effects, and apply the principle immediately preceding this one.
Most such utilities will only slow down and destabilize your Mac while they look for viruses that do not exist, conveying no benefit whatsoever - other than to make you "feel good" about security, when you should actually be exercising sound judgment, derived from accurate knowledge, based on verifiable facts.
Do install updates from Apple as they become available. No one knows more about Macs and how to protect them than the company that builds them.
Summary: Use common sense and caution when you use your Mac, just like you would in any social context. There is no product, utility, or magic talisman that can protect you from all the evils of mankind.

What do i need to connect my mac book pro to the tv with the thunderbolt on the mac to hdmi? I have the newest macbook pro. I'm wanting to have the best picture I can get from my 1080p tv. thanks

what do i need to connect my mac book pro to the tv with the mac's thunderbolt port to hdmi? I have the newest macbook pro. I'm wanting to have the best picture I can get from my 1080p tv. thanks

Thanks Community! I solved the problem. In fact it was not a problem but lack of understanding. These guys at Apple are way ahead in thir thinking. I will try to explain as short as I can.
In Lion, ihe Prefferences/Display show only two choices: 6-7 steps of resolution and some color tab. No two screens, no two display to overlap, nothing for us to do. "That was the problem"! Everything is automatic.
When I connected the HDMI cable to the Miniport into a T-bolt slot, the TV screen showed the "spiral galaxy" how Zyriab is calling it. In fact he gave me the best clue. That shows the connection is good. But where is the Mac Book image?
You have to drag it to the right out of the Mac Book display area, and "voila!" it will continue on the TV screen. The same with the mouse pointer, push it out ofthe Mac Book display area and you see it on the TV sreen. Good image, you can keep the max resolution, etc. The sound is still on the Book's speakers. I have to figure that out.
Thank everybody, especialy Zyriab, ne was the closest.
High regards to everybody

I have a mac book pro and have already downloaded adobe flash player. However when i go to watch a video it says "Block Plug In". But my adobe is already up to date. Can someone help me to fix this so i can watch videos?

I have a mac book pro and have already downloaded adobe flash player. However when i go to watch a video it says "Blocked Plug In". But my adobe is already up to date. Can someone help me to fix this so i can watch videos?

If you're sure you've installed the latest version of Flash, take each of the following steps that you haven't already tried. After each step, relaunch Safari and test. For a "missing plug-in" error, start with Step 7. Back up all data before making any changes.
Step 1
You might have to log out or reboot before a Flash update takes effect.
Step 2
In the Safari preference window, select
Privacy ▹ Remove All Website Data
Close the window. Then select
 ▹ System Preferences… ▹ Flash Player ▹ Advanced
and click Delete All. Close the preference pane.
Step 3
If you're only having trouble with YouTube videos, log in to YouTube and load this page. You may see a link with the text "Leave the HTML5 Trial." If so, click that link.
Step 4
If you get a warning of a "blocked" or "outdated" plug-in, then from the menu bar select
 ▹ System Preferences… ▹ Flash Player ▹ Advanced
and click Check Now. Quit and relaunch the browser.
If the warning persists, triple-click anywhere in the line below on this page to select it:
/System/Library/CoreServices/CoreTypes.bundle/Contents/Resources
Right-click or control-click the highlighted text and select
Services ▹ Open
from the contextual menu.* A folder should open. Inside it, there should be a file named "XProtect.meta.plist". If that file is missing and you know why it's missing, restore it from a backup or copy it from another Mac running the same version of OS X. Otherwise, reinstall OS X.
*If you don't see the contextual menu item, copy the selected text to the Clipboard by pressing the key combination command-C. In the Finder, select
Go ▹ Go to Folder...
from the menu bar, paste into the box that opens (command-V). You won't see what you pasted because a line break is included. Press return.
Step 5
Open this folder as in Step 4:
/Library/Internet Plug-Ins
Delete the following item, or anything with a similar name, if present:
Flash Player (failing).plugin
You may be prompted for your login password.
Step 6
Re-download and reinstall Flash. Download it from the domain "get.adobe.com". Don't click a link from any other website, including this one, because you can't trust links. They may be an attempt to trick you into installing malware masquerading as Flash. Type the address into the browser window. Never download a Flash update from anywhere else.
Step 7
If you get a "missing plug-in" error, select
Safari ▹ Preferences... ▹ Security
from the Safari menu bar and check the box marked
Allow (or Enable) plug-ins
Then click the button marked
Manage Website Settings...
if present and make sure that the website is not blocked for Flash.
Step 8
Select
Safari ▹ Preferences... ▹ Extensions
from the Safari menu bar. If any extensions are installed, disable them.

I had to buy a new Mac Book Pro. When I tried to install Adobe Flash Player, I couldn't get into it with any of my passwords. Can I reset my password and if so, how do I do that? Thanks

I had to purchase a new Mac Book Pro. When I tried to download Adobe Flash Player, it wouldn't take any of my passwords. I had to change my Apple ID last week, but nothing worked. Can I reset my Adobe Flash Player password and if so, how do I do that? Thanks

Hi Donna,
Please see What userid & password do I need to install Flash Player? for info on the password being requested.
Maria

What is the best external hard drive for the MAC Book Pro with Retina?

What is the best external hard drive for the MAC Book Pro with Retina?
I was looking at WD MY PASSPORT FOR MAC and Toshiba. I want something that will work best with time capsule! Suggestions on the best external hard drive would be greatly appreciated!!!

A Time Machine backup drive should be substantially larger than the system drive. If you have a 128 or 256 GB SSD then a 1 TB drive will suffice. If you have a 512 GB SSD then a 2 TB drive will suffice. As leroydouglas indicated any brand other than WD will do.
For 1 TB drives PlotinusVeritas gives some great suggestions here:
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/5602141?tstart=0
A 2 TB drive sold by Apple:
http://store.apple.com/us/product/H9378ZM/A/lacie-2tb-usb-30-porsche-design-p923 3-desktop-hard-drive
$130
A 2 TB drive just as good for only $92.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toshiba-Canvio-Basics-3-0-USB-2-TB-Portable-Hard-Drive-M odel-HDTB220XK3CA-/231162655273

What is the best way to transfer my iTunes library to my new mac book pro?

WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO TRANSFER MY ITUNES LIBRARY TO MY NEW MAC BOOK PRO? I AM A NOVICE COMPUTER WIZARD!

From your Old Computer... Copy your ENTIRE iTunes FOLDER to an External Drive... and then from the External Drive to your New Computer..
Backup iTunes to an External Drive
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1751
Moving iTunes Media Folder (Mac)
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1449
If your Old Computer is a PC... See Here...
Move iTunes Library from PC to MAC
http://www.macworld.com/article/146958/2010/03/move_itunes_windows_mac.html

Best bluray player fot mac book pro

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for