Best disk set-up for editing HDV on iMac G5

Are any of the G5 iMac's external interfaces (FireWire 400/USB 2.0) really fast enough for editing and playback of HDV in FCE or am I always going to suffer jerky stop-start performance? Currently using a LaCie d2 Quadra 500GB drive connected via USB which supports 'up to 60MB/s' according to spec – is this set-up going to cut it? If not, what's optimum for this iMac?

The application knows where the media is. It knows what bus it's coming from. Are you getting dropped frames in playback? Do you get an error message when you play back HDV material? There are many factors that can cause dropped frames. The error message lists some of them.

Similar Messages

Suggesting on best Mac set up for home photographer

looking for suggesting on best Mac set up for home photographer and video editor using iPhoto and CS6 products for example. I have a 8 year old Mac and looking to start with a new clean build. I don't need to get too fancy can be a out of box Mac solution

Any Mac will be faster than an 8-year old one (especially since that Mac is almost certainly PowerPC-based).
You've posted in the Mac Pro forum, but ironically that's the one Mac that wouldn't really make sense (they're very expensive and are generally overkill for most home applications).
The iMacs are probably what you want to look at - I would go into an Apple Store and look at the two sizes to determine what works best for you. The 27" has expandable RAM; the 21" doesn't, so you are advised, if you buy the smaller, to max out the RAM from Apple to 16GB when you buy it.
Don't forget that they lack optical drives now, so you'll need an external USB drive if you use a lot of CD/DVDs. (Doesn't need to be an Apple Superdrive.)
Matt

What is the best home set up for a family to share/use apple products

Hi, I am relatively new to apple (have an iPad) and having been a PC user for years I was pleasantly surprised with the apple experience and am now trying to work out the best set up for me, my husband and young son as I am buying them both of them apple products this Christmas. New Mac laptop/ ipad for hubby and then an ipod touch for my son oh and a new mac laptop for me. We are also thinking of moving from Blackberries to iPhones. Yes we seem to be hooked! but i am unsure about the home family set up and how to replace my PC network that I run off an 8TB server.
In reading the forums I keep seeing people talk about problems they have with two apple IDs and trying to merge them. I have also heard about a family ID allowing us to share apps legally. I am really nervous of setting us up wrong and then having problems later and hence i am now looking for some advice on how to share as much as we can legally but also make usage practical and not invading each others privacy. thoughts so far:
Music - I think we are happy to share the same music and access using one ID (we currently don't buy much music from apple but have lots of CDs we share).
Photos - It would be nice to share photos - as long as my son or husband cannot accidentally delete photos of mine (which is my biggest concern). I currently load all camera photos onto my 8TB storage box as the network owner and my husband has full access to copy any photo to his laptop but can never delete the original copies by accident.
Apps - If possible i would like us to share these but they are cheap enough these days to separate if really needed. Would be good to share licence for pages etc though
cloud, contacts, facetime, email - this is what is making me consider separate IDs or learning how to have multiple users in one apple ID - I do not want to have to share synced contacts with my husband. I have near 300 contacts now through work etc and he will not want them plus i will not want his or him being able to delete mine by mistake. and then for email and facetime, well I want to give him his privacy so I do not receive his messages etc. especially now that we are considering switching to iPhones
Then last but not least, i don't know the best solution for my son. he is only 7 years old so even though I don't want to pay for things again I don't want him being able to download "just any" app from the purchased icon in Appstore. Also, is there a child friendly setting to prevent him from viewing inappropriate content on the internet?
Appreciate I have asked a lot of questions here but I am looking for any genuine advice out there. Thank you in advance to any potential advisers.

Welcome to the Apple Community.
You don't need to use the same ID on a device for iCloud and iTunes.
iCloud covers mail, contacts, calendars, reminders, notes, bookmarks, photostream, document syncing etc and for these I recommend you each have your own ID's, this will stop others from having access to and likely more importantly being able to edit or even delete your personal information.
Someone of Age needs to be responsible for an account, so for younger children you will need to create and be responsible for an account yourself but let the child use it.
For iTunes you could use a single account so everyone can share music and apps or you could use separate accounts (there are ways to share content between users, Apple provides homesharing to do this).
When choosing how to proceed with iTunes, it might be worth remembering that someday your children will reach 21 (or whatever age they feel they have become independent) and will likely want their own account, changing accounts later may make it difficult to access previous content.
Photostream now has shared albums, so you can share just what you want with others. Shared photos using shared albums cannot be deleted by others with different accounts, but if you all shared the same account they could be.
Facetime and messages can also use an ID independently of each other, iCloud and iTunes. Separate ID's are recommended for these, joint accounts can be problematic.
iTunes has parental controls for youngsters, however at 7, I suggest you don't reveal the password to him and enter it yourself when he needs to purchase something, otherwise you may receive unexpected bills.

Best storage set-ups for large Libraries?

Let's say "large Library" means 500 GB and/or 500,000 Images, and above.
What set-ups for storage, on a Mac maximized with RAM, will provide the best Aperture performance? The best bang-for-the-buck? Assume Thunderbolt is available. I don't know much about hardware: RAID, hybrid drives, etc.
What sensible considerations should one make for backup and data-redundancy?
How can I determine if the storage media is a bottleneck in the performance of Aperture on my system?
I run most libraries off of external USB-3 drives mounted (sometimes directly, often via powered USB-3 hubs) to my
MacBook Pro
Retina, 15-inch, Early 2013
Processor 2.7 GHz Intel Core i7
Memory 16 GB 1600 MHz DDR3
Graphics NVIDIA GeForce GT 650M 1024 MB
System Drive APPLE SSD SD512E
This works well for small and medium-size Libraries, but for large Libraries, I'm spending costly time waiting for the system to catch up.
Some of that, demonstrably, comes when I run a three-monitor set-up. (But this provides some welcome advantages to me.)
Additionally, some back-ups and database repairs now take 12 hr. or longer.
Thanks.

Thanks William,
I kept my c. 2011 MPB and use it for making back-ups, which is done automatically after I leave for the day. My early-2013 MPB is so much faster (and has such a higher-resolution screen) that I don't use the older computer at all.
William Lloyd wrote:
Probably the fastest storage you can get is the La Cie "little big disk" which is a pair of 512 GB SSDs with a Thunderbolt 2 connection. The issue is, only the newest Mac Pro, and the newest retina MacBook Pros, have Thunderbolt 2 right now.
OWC tech explained to me that TBolt2 allows 2x the throughput, but that the drives have to be able to provide it. TBolt1 should provide 1,000 MB/s (do I have the units correct?), which is faster than most drives can provide. So the bottleneck, for me, isn't likely to be the port, but rather the drives. USB-3 can move 500 MB/s, which is still faster than -- afaict -- what my WD Passport drives can provide.
As I currently see it, I need faster throughput, and I need to either trim my large Libraries or find a way to manage them so that the regularly used files are more speedily available.
Regarding faster throughput, an external SSD comes to mind.
The problem, for me, is that the large Libraries are close to 1TB (with Previews). While I don't expect them to grow (the data acquisition phase is, for now, done), it would be short-sighted to assume they won't. That brings up the second consideration, which is how to best use spanned drives that contain an Aperture Library.
As I see it (with my limited understanding of hardware), what I really want is _a lot more RAM_, or, barring that, a huge SSD scratch disk. I have 200 GB free on my system drive, which is an Apple-supplied SSD, but it doesn't seen to be used as effectively as I'd like.
WD is now selling a new portable TBolt SSD, the "My Passport Pro", available with 4 GB of storage, and with a throughput of 230 MB/s. My current largest Library is on WB Passport drives, whose throughput is not faster than 480 Mb/s (Max) (I assume BITS, not BYTES, so 40 MB/s). That's a huge difference, while still only 1/4 of the speed possible with TBolt1, and 1/8 the throughput possible with TBolt2 (which my early-2013 MBP does not have, afaict).
These are the questions I am trying to answer:
- How can I measure my current throughput?
- Can I determine the bottleneck in my use of large Libraries in Aperture?
- Will new storage give me faster performance?
- Which storage will give me the best "bang-for-my-bucks"? (The La Cie "little big disk" seems to have it's bang limited by my computer, which greatly lowers its quotient value.)
In short: how can I get 900-1000 MB/s throughput on my machine, and is there any way to set up my Library so that, even though it is close to 1 TB, I can use a smaller very fast drive for the most read/written files?
--Kirby.

Setting Prefernces for Editing in iPhoto 6

In iPhoto 5 if you double clicked an iPhoto and had selected in Prefernces for CS2 to open you could edit there. If you selected the EDIT button in iPhoto it went to iPhoto editing.
I find in iPhoto 6 that selecting CS2 in Prefernces and either double clicking an iPhoto or hitting the EDIT button both take you to CS2. Whatever you selected in iPhoto-- Preferences --General --EDIT IN-- It appears the only way to choose the edit application (CS2 or within iPhoto) is by changing the Prefernce setting in iPhoto. Am I missing something? Thanks for you help.
LCB
dual 1ghz Mac OS X (10.4)

Hello,
There are 2 ways to use an external editor and iPhoto's editor without switching preferences around.
1. Set an external editor. Yes, the EDIT button will still open your external editor. But try the Full-Screen Edit Icon (rectangle with arrows pointing outward at bottom left of window). It should open your photo for editing in iPhoto's Full-Screen edit mode.
2. From Old Toad:
Using 2 Image Editors in iPhoto
If you want to use both iPhoto's editing mode and a 3rd party editor without having to go back and forth to the Preference pane, once you've selected the 3rd party editor as your editor of choice, reset the Preferences back to "Open in main window". Then when you Control-click on an image, you can select "Edit in external editor" in the Contextual menu to edit in your selected editor.
Do these work for you?

Best $1k-$2k monitor for editing HD video?

I'm finding myself lately doing quite a bit of color correction to HD video footage lately, and my extremely old monitor (Planar PX2611W) just isn't sufficient anymore, so I'm hoping you all might be able to help me. I've looked at a number of different monitors, and am starting to get confused by all of the Gamut discussions and whether they play at all into video editing (or are just for photo editing - which is also important to me), calibration issues (or devices), etc.
What I am looking for is around 27", preferably closer to $1k but willing to go up to $2k'ish, professional grade and calibrated monitor for editing HD video footage (displayed on everything from HD TVs to smart phones) and photos (mostly for web but also definitely do some printing - usually all in the sRGB gamut).
Also looking for calibration device suggestions if the monitor doesn't have such functionality built in.
Any help on this would be greatly appreciated!

You said:
"It seems the playback is the same when viewed on both monitors."
Both monitors at the same time ? That's the same (or worse) as using only the larger monitor.
You should do the test again using just the older monitor with the smaller resolution.
I believe the higher the resolution the harder the CPU and graphics card has to work. This could mean slowdowns and maybe choppy playback.
A better solution would be to use 2 monitors. The playback monitor should be maybe only 1920 resolution. And in Nvidia panel you should set the hardware acceleration only for this monitors and not for both. On the second monitor you can move most of your toolbars. In this way you will have a giant workspace/resolution - but only 1920 pixels accelerated.
I also bought a NEC PA241W and I searched high and low and could only find discussions about photography and printing. Like calibration and this monitor is good only for printing. And not one discussion on any forum about calibration and After Effects for example. Like the video people are not interested at all in calibration.
I would really like to know if calibration with the X-rite i1Display Pro is also good for video ? Or only for printing.

Best wifi set up for multiple routers and appletvs

Hi, just got the new June 2013 "tower" airport extreme in my ongoing quest to improve non ethernet wifi in my large house (lots of bathrooms and solid block walls, no cable)
Trying to figure out best set up for the various routers and whether or not to use "Bridge" mode. Have the following
New tower airport extreme
2 x older airport extremes
3 airports
5 apple tvs each in a different room for streaming media to 5 televisions
SO planning to factory re-set all my old airports and then install the tower airport in prime receiving position. It will recieve the wifi signal via an ethernet cable from the "radio" on my roof which receives my internet signal. (Actually faster than most wired internet in the small town I live in).
Tower = main receiver and distributor of internet
1 x older airport extreme distributing this signal further into the house - SHOULD THIS BE IN BRIDGE MODE?
2 or more others distributing the signal from the older airport extreme further into the house - SHOULD THEY ALSO BE IN BRIDGE MODE?
I'm very unclear on the benefit of bridge mode. Currently all my routers operate freely and are just extenders - not in bridge mode. Devices just hook into whatever router is nearest - some of which show Excellent wifi and the furtherest show only "Good wifi. I have one room at the very end of my house where the wifi is pretty weak.
Any comments on set up or especially the value of Bridge mode and whether all down-stream routers should be bridged or just extended much appreciated. I guess there is a possibility that I place the 2 older extremes in two main extending locations. One for one section of the house and the other to receive the signal direct from the Tower Airport Extreme to distribute the other end of the house section. So should they both be bridged....?

When an AirPort is properly configured to extend the wireless range of another, it is automatically reconfigured into Bridge mode.
Each of AirPorts that you will use to extend the new 802.11ac AirPort Extreme would all need to be configured as such. Please check out this Apple Support article on how to extend AirPorts.
The key here is to understand that the extended network works in a wheel-like fashion with the base station being extended at the hub of the wheel and each of the extending ones on one of the spokes. This should help you plan the best placement of each base station for maximum performance. For more details on optimum placement, please see the following AirPort User Tip.

Best Plan/Set-up for Peru

Hi -
I am moving to Peru from the United States, and since I am new to Skype I thought I would ask the experts what the best plan or set-up for staying in touch would be. Basically, I would like to have the ability to call landlines and mobiles back in the USA, and for landlines and mobiles to be able to call my Skype line in Peru. I would prefer an unlimited plan rather than having to worry about counting my minutes or overages.
Also, I am wondering if I would be able to divert calls to my current cell phone number to my Skype line when I am in Peru. If that is the case, would I be able to access these calls on my cell when I return to the United States?
Thanks for all the help. Apologies if this is basic or doesn't make total sense, but as I said, I'm new at this and looking to begin to understand it all.

I am moving to Peru from the United States, and since I am new to Skype I thought I would ask the experts what the best plan or set-up for staying in touch would be. Basically, I would like to have the ability to call landlines and mobiles back in the USA, and for landlines and mobiles to be able to call my Skype line in Peru. I would prefer an unlimited plan rather than having to worry about counting my minutes or overages.
You would probably want to do two things.... First, purchase a subscription for calling phones in the USA. Probably the best plan in this case is the Unlimited USA & Canada subscription at US$ 2.99/month. Then you would also want to purchase an Online Number in the US area code that you prefer (provided it is available). The Online Number is US$ 18 for 3 months or US$ 60/year, but you get a 50% discount on the Online Number when you have a subscription like the Unlimited USA & Canada subscription. If you get a subscription and a US online number for a year, you can end up with a US phone number and calling to all US (and Canadian) numbers for around US$ 60/year - or US$ 5/month! Not a bad deal, especially when you're in Peru.
Another obvious thing you'll need in Peru is a good Internet connection. You probably knew that already, but that's a must for this to work well for you down there.
Also, I am wondering if I would be able to divert calls to my current cell phone number to my Skype line when I am in Peru. If that is the case, would I be able to access these calls on my cell when I return to the United States?
You should be able to do that. You'd have to check the instructions for your phone, and maybe contact your mobile carrier, about how to do that. Setting call-forwarding on your mobile phone is completely separate from Skype. Make sure that call-forwarding from your mobile phone is not limited to a maximum number of minutes per month, as some carriers do that. If you set the call-forwarding before you left the USA, you can turn that off whenever you are back in the States.
One thing that you could do with a calling subscription covering US numbers along with a US online number is this.... encourage your callers to use the Skype Online Number to reach you, instead of the mobile number. You can set up Skype to call-forward unanswered calls to a telephone number if you have Skype Credit and/or a calling subscription. When in the States, Skype can be used to forward calls from your Skype number to your US mobile number. Other than not receiving SMS messages on a Skype Online Number, then it does not matter what your mobile number is. Just use the Skype Online Number as your number for anything you need in the US. I've done this for several years, with a subscription and a US Online Number. It works pretty well.
Good luck in Peru!
Patrick
Location/Ubicacion: Arizona USA
Time Zone/Hora Local: UTC/GMT -7
If this message has adequately addressed your issue, please click on the “Accept as Solution” button. If you found a post useful then please "Give Kudos" at the bottom of my post, so that this information can benefit others.
Si esto mensaje le ha ayudado, por favor haga clic en "Aceptar como solución". Si encuentra un mensaje útil, por favor "Da Kudos" al final del mensaje, por lo que esta información puede beneficiar a otros.
I am not a Skype employee. No soy un empleado de Skype.

Best Mic set-up for a Mac G5 dual?

Hello Folks,
What is a good Mic set-up for a Mac G5 dual?
Do I need the "GRIFFIN TECHNOLOGY IMIC2"?
Thanks!
G5 1.8 GHz Dual Mac OS X (10.3.9)

The iMic is more a consumer thing, not very professionnal. If you want a good quality setup but yet affordable, I'd choose a Focusrite Saffire for preamp/audio interface and a Rode NT-1A for mic. Also, you'll need the usual accessories: a pop-filter ( I highly recommend Stedman), a mic stand, a quality XLR cable and good headphones (I suggest AKG K240 Studio).

Why can't I find and open a text layer on photo (psd file) for editing using an iMac?

When I open Photoshop Elements 10 Editor to edit a text layer on a 511KB 412x292 psd photo the text layer is not shown. How do I open the text layer? How do I edit the text layer? How do I save the finished work product? The background layer is locked. I can't unlock it. Do I have to unlock first or do what? I have tried any number of approaches none of which open the text layer for editing. I would greatly appreciate help in resolving this issue.

How do you know there is a text layer? All the layers should be shown in the layers panel.
The background layer is always partially locked and that has no effect on editing. You can ignore that.
Would this be a comp layer or part of a layer group created in full Photoshop, by any chance?

Best disk set up?

Sorry you guys may be sick of answering this question but I hope this can be quick. To note I use my PC for video/photo editing and gaming (I can't afford two spearate PCs for this!).
These are currently the disks I own:
OS (+essential programmes like CS and a few games): 250GB Samsung SSD
Programs (that wont benefit from being on a SSD)/Steam Games: 1TB Samsung F3 HDD
Media (Photos, videos, music, films etc.): 4TB HDD.
Another 1TB Samsung F3 HDD which used to be the media drive.
Also got a 1TB external disk as backup.
So in total I have 4 disks in use (1x250gb SSD, 2x1TB HDD, 1x4TB HDD). I'ld like to know which would be the best way to set them up for optimal performance in Premiere and Photoshop??
Thanks a million!!
EDIT: Ok i did some reading around so what do you guys think of this set up?
250GB SSD: OS + Essential programmes (CS installed here)
1TB HDD: Other programmes/Steam Games + Pagefile/Media Cache/Scratch disk
1TB HDD: Projects, Media
4TB HDD: Previes, Export + media storage (music, films etc.)

Thanks, that was a very helpful link!
Do you think it'ld be better to go with the setup where:
D: Media, Projects
E: Media Cache
F: Previews, Exports
or
D: Media, Projects, Exports
E: 2 discs in Raid 0: Media cache and Previews

Best Mac Pro Configuration for Editing

Hey guys. I'm looking to upgrade my editing capabilities from a iMac G5 to a Mac Pro computer system. I pretty much want to go all out on this thing, as I don't look to upgrade again anytime soon. I will be working with a fresh copy of Final Cut Studio 2.
I was wondering, however, about what would be a good configuration for the hardware itself, more specifically the video cards that are available now.
Which video card would be the best for HD video editing and manipulation? I was thinking about just getting the most expensive one, but I have heard some video cards are made for one thing more than another, and I want to make sure that I get the right configuration the first time.
Again, money is not too much of an issue as this will be an expense for my business.
Any help would be appreciated.
Message was edited by: Troy Minassian

Well I'll try not to be too vague here but I think it's going to be easier for me to give you a few hints but mostly talk about where to do more research.
First: Formats -
With good ol' DV, any off-the-shelf, completely stock, Mac Pro will handle it - absolutley NO sweat. Just add 1 (or more) iternal SATA drives for capturing media, and you're off to the races. HDV...this could go either way. In theory, again, a basic Mac Pro can handle this. The format's total throughput is no more than DV. However, my thought is that using straight HDV in it's "native" format can be a real pain in the butt. Cruise over the Final Cut forum and do a search for a phrase like "HDV" & "Yuck" and you'll end up with a big long list of issues. I'll not go too far into detail, but HDV is a highly compressed format with a GOP-structure. Dealing with GOP-structured media in an NLE is not pretty.
The good news is if you're even considering something like an Io HD then the HDV issues can be conquered with it. You would use the Io HD to transcode the HDV to Apple's ProRes codec on the fly. That's what the IoHD does. It's an external capture card whose form factor makes it nice and portable. So you'd come out of your camera or deck - into the Io HD - and out via firewire to your computer. The one "trick" is: you're married to ProRes. That's the one & only codec this box does. (To the best of my knowledge, that is.) Anyway, that's not necessarily a bad thing. Just good to know going into it. Here's a review of the Io HD over at the creativecow.net. And by the way, if you've never hung out over there, note that it's a great resource for help. Tons of in-the-know pros hang out there.
As far as AVCHD, I'm personally not too familiar with it. I know that it too is not very intensive to deal with - per se. But the whole tapeless concept is still somewhat new and as such has it's share of "gotchas". For that I'd do a search over there on Apple's Final Cut forum. I know a search for AVCHD is going to turn up many many posts.
Regarding the RED. Again, it's so new it's got it share of workflow bumps to be aware of. (Personally, I love the concept of what this camera is all about. I checked it out and NAB and was really impressed with where they're going with it.) But for better info on that, I'd steer over to the Final Cut forum here and the Final Cut form over at the COW. Further, the camera has it's own forum over at the COW. And another great source of info is reduser.net. This camera is sweeping the industry. But it's changing the workflow quite a bit too.
Second: Processing -
As far as overall CPU power goes....Sure! A higher clock speed is basically going to be a faster machine. Here's some stats. But what's the cost? The 3.2 is faster than the 2.8. Is this worth $1600 to you? Only you can answer that question. For me: I just spent a month vacillating over a new machine purchase. I had originally "decided" months ago to get a new Mac Pro Eight 2.8. Then I thought I might save some loot and buy a G5. Then I thought, No! That's a dumb idea.... I could spend only about $600 more and get a refurb'ed 2.66 Quad core. Then I figured I could spend $800 more than that and end up - right back where I started - with a new 2.8 8-Core. So for me, the $1400 more, to go from a used G5 to a new 2.8 Octo, just made sense. But the point is: it's a completely personal decision. For me, that overall margin of money/performance made a lot of sense! On the other hand, did it make sense for me to spend $1600 more and get the 3.2 instead of the 2.8? Not at all! So only you are going to be able to decide if $1600 buys you enough of a performance hike.
Then, Extras -
Too, you're going to want to add as much RAM as you can afford. The other big question is storage. You've mentioned a spectrum of formats. On the one hand you've got your DV. Again a single SATA drive will be more than enough to capture to and playback from. But with ProRes HQ you're getting more demanding on the drives. For this, you'd want to now add, let's say, 3 more internal drives and stripe them together into a capture RAID. But you could even go up a few steps and get something like the CalDigit HD Pro and get multiple streams of HD playback with the security of a hardware-controlled RAID 5 scenario. So there's a couple of different ways to go here....However, if you start with very very fast, reliable drives, you're setting yourself to handle higher-end formats. Drive speed can be a killer. But if you start at the top you can basically head off any format woes for the future. (For a while....Nothing's completely future-proof in this game.)
Finally, Monitoring -
You've got to figure out how to look at/hear the media outside-of-the-computer. Meaning - you're going to need external monitoring equipment: Video and Audio. Again this will open more questions for you. But these items are key to your knowing what you're REALLY working with. So you really need a NTSC monitor, an audio mixer/control surface of some sort and some powered speakers. The Final Cut forums will be good places to research what others are using in these arenas.
Anyway, good luck with it all! You've already discovered a great resource: this forum. If I were you, I'd start to spend more time on the Final Cut forums. These types of queries will get solid answers over there. I'd recommend establishing the habit of performing a search when you've over there though. The chances of someone else, already asking the same thing that you're investigating, is quite high. Almost guaranteed. Enjoy!

Question: best Hardware set-up for final cut univ. and mac pro

Hi, I was wondering if anyone has used final cut universal with their mac pro and can recommend a hardware set-up (Processors, memory... ) they found best adapted for it.
my mac pro:
Processor Name: Dual-Core Intel Xeon
Processor Speed: 2.66 GHz
Number Of Processors: 2
Total Number Of Cores: 4
L2 Cache (per processor): 4 MB
Memory: 2 GB
Bus Speed: 1.33 GHz
thank you
MAC PRO Mac OS X (10.4.8)

Final Cut Studio/video editing requires all four parts of a system…
1) Processor performance
2) GPU performance
3) RAM
4) Hard drive performance
… to be working in tandem. If any one of these areas a caught short then the system as a whole is disproportionately affected. It's one of the downsides to video is that everything needs to be working as well as it can.
So, what I would recommend for you is the following setup as your goal is something like…
Mac Pro 2.66GHz
6GB RAM (4 x 1GB + 4 x 512MB - I'm presumng you already have the 4 x 512MB)
ATi X1900 XT graphics card (or better - depneds on what's available at the time)
2 x Western Digital Raptor 150GB RAID 0 for boot and scratch
2 x Maxtor MaXLine Pro 500GB RAID 0 for data
Any further eSATA storage requirements for cloning, backup and data
Not cheap but should scream.

In Pages 5.0.1 option to set password for editing document is gone when exporting as a pdf

In last version of Pages, I would make a proposal to a customer and then go to 'share' and then choose 'PDF' from the drop down. Next screen allowed me to choose the option of password protecting the document from being edited. This new version of Pages only seems to allow setting a password for opening the document. I do not need to password protect the document from being opened, just edited. Any help for this new problem? Apple always seems to remove features that are so helpful and useful when they 'upgrade' apps., very frustrating!

Apple has removed over 90 features from Pages 5 and added many bugs.
http://www.freeforum101.com/iworktipsntrick/viewforum.php?f=22&sid=3527487677f0c 6fa05b6297cd00f8eb9&mforum=iworktipsntrick
Pages '09 should still be in your Applications/iWork folder.
Archive/trash Pages 5, after Exporting your files to Pages '09, and rate/review it in the App Store, then get back to work.
Peter

After taking a photo in RAW format, which format is best to save in for editing in photoshop

I want the highest quality pictures possible, so I take photos in RAW format, but what format should I be saving in during photoshop editing? Is TIFF or PSD or EPS, or some other format the best for retaining the highest quality photos?

To me saving as PSD seems more natural. Since it's Photoshop's native format, you can rest assured that all aspects of your document will be saved.
-Noel

Best disk set-up for editing HDV on iMac G5

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