Best option to synchronize two applications

I've been developing two CVI applications (call them App_1 and App_2, for example), and I've been looking for the best option to synchronize them. I mean that App_1 must know if App_2 is running or not, and which operation is performing in every moment.
At the beginning I thought to a network variable (created when App_2 starts and deleted when it stops), but this is not an option because if App_2 crashes the network variable is not deleted, but it exists with the last value. And so App_1 would think that App_2 is running...
Any suggestion on a better way?
Vix
In claris non fit interpretatio
Using LV 2013 SP1 on Win 7 64bit
Using LV 8.2.1 on WinXP SP3
Using CVI 2012 SP1 on Win 7 64bit, WinXP and WinXP Embedded
Using CVI 6.0 on Win2k, WinXP and WinXP Embedded

Since you are already on the way to Network Variable, you could benefit from timestamping the variable you are already using. Refer to NVQuality example project for an example of using timestamping of a NV. This could probably address most of your problems, provided the writer continously update status variable even if no change has occurred. Alternatively, you can add a supplementary variable to use as a whatchdog, i.e. the writer continuously writes some different value and the reader checks it has changed over time.
Proud to use LW/CVI from 3.1 on.
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If I have helped you, why not giving me a kudos?

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Help Determining Best Option for a MacBook Pro

I will be purchasing a new MBP, and I am having some challenges determining my best option. I have researched quite a bit, but the more I research the more I get lost. I was hoping that the support community here would be able to assist in my decision. I am very price consious so I am looking at the refurbished models from the Apple store. I am also a Web Developer so I need to be able to run Photoshop, Dreamweaver, Illustator plus have a few browsers going with multiple tabs in each. Speed (both working with files and browsing the web) is of the utmost importance to me as I need a computer that can keep up with me. Basically I need a fast computer so I can get my job done quickly. I would love to purchase a new Mac and max it out, but cost is a very important issue which is why I am looking at these two models.
I am torn between two models in the Apple Refurbished section:
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Refurbished 13.3-inch MacBook Pro 2.5GHz Dual-core Intel i5
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Option 2.
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What it comes down to is that I like option 1 as the cost is much lower and I can upgrade, but I am nwondering if option 2 would be a faster than option 1 even after I upgrade the RAM and HD. I'm just hesitant about the retina model as I cannot upgrade. To me most of the numbers look the same, but I do not know much about what is under the hood and what is overall a better machine for my purposes above. To the retina screen isn't all that important as I plan on connecting the MBP to a larger external monitory.
Thanks in advance for any help. If anything needs clarification please ask and I will provide more details.

Another advantage to the non-Retina MB/Pro with optical drive is the possibility
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come up on occasion; however an SSD in that location has a slower data rate
than one on the hard disk drive bus. 'Data Doubler' is their name for it; a kit
could include a suitable SSD, too. http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/SSD/OWC/
About wireless connectivity differences between Retina MB/Pro and non-Retina,
could vary the results if one were to use a newer Time Capsule wireless base
station; as these can use two bandwidths of wi-fi. However I am not sure if one
or both models can utilize this feature when connecting to the base station &
wireless backup function of the time capsule. The faster speed could be a little
helpful if using wireless; yet I'd be sure to make a backup clone and directly
use a wired connection of dependable speed and quality for its use.
So to read up on the newer specs for the Time Capsule with built in wi-fi base
station to see if that matters; I doubt there would be an issue as the newer is
supposed to be compatible with the older.
Hopefully this helps somewhat. I've found an older AirPort base station can
affect the internet speed when the source is higher than the base thoroughput.
This can be an issue, at least with wireless backups or internet access. For
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Best option for initial setup of HD's on Xserve (possible RAID)

I'm just about to set up a new network in a new office and have an Xserve with 3 HD's 2x700GB and 1x500GB drive.
Now i have a fair bit of experience with the server itself, however i have zero experience with RAID.
I would like to start automatic backups of the OS (which i do already in a round about way). And have several share points for users network homes and data.
Does anyone have any suggestions of how to setup the HD's themselves, should i RAID? what would be the best option? etc etc etc.
All suggestions are very welcome and appreciated.
Thanks
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No one can answer your question - at least not without more information.
When deciding disk layout you need to factor things like how much usable disk space you need - in this case for users' data. Are the users home directories on the server, or do they just upload files to the server for storage/backup?
What's the intensity of the data? Is reliability or performance more important? Would you pull your hair out if you lost a single file? a day's work? a week's work?
How much downtime could you tolerate if the server crashed?
These questions (and probably more) are important because it helps focus on the needs. For example, if the integrity of the data is more important than uptime you could mirror the two 700 GB drives for the user data and install the OS on the single 1TB drive. Of course this leaves you (slightly) vulnerable to a problem on the OS disk and you could be offline for hours if that disk failed. However, your user data would be mirrored and likely protected from disk failure.
On the other hand, if the uptime of the server is more important, you might opt to install the OS on the 700GB mirror, using the 1TB for user data, relying on backups to restore this disk if it fails.
Or, you might decide to put everything (OS and data) on the 700GB mirror, using the 1TB as the backup destination.
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So, as I said, there is no one single answer to your question. You'll need to balance storage capacity and redundancy to find the best match for you.

Best Options for a 60" 3D television?

I don't want to go above the $1600 prictag. I've been researching TVs for the past week and I'm just getting overhwelmed with all the different TVs and the reviews. I was set on getting the Vizio M601d-A3R because it had great reviews and the price was great. I went into Best Buy to purchase it because I wanted to price match it with a store that had a lower cost. I instantly knew something was wrong when the employee said they didn't have any in stock and the factory didn't have it either, but he convinced me it was still active. So he sent me to the express lane to have it shipped to the store from another authorized seller. As we were finishing up the process of paying, that employee said she couldn't have shipped to the store or my house. It wasn't in stock anywhere. I asked her if it meant it was being discontinued and she said that it looked that way. I went home and looked it up and couldn't find a definite answer to it, but I did find that Vizio came out with a new line for 2014 and that was the older model, so it was being phased out. I read some reviews for different sizes on other sites where some people complained about the TV crashing, so I decided to not even attempt to buy it.
So now I'm stuck. I found a LG for a very cheap price on Best Buy's website. It has great reviews on Best Buy's site and other places, but there are only a few reviews on each and Best Buy has it listed as a special order item. Here's the link for it: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/lg-60-class-59-7-8-diag--plasma-600hz-smart-3d-hdtv/5935095.p?id=1219174...
I'm a little unsure about it since I can't see it before I buy it. Plus, the low price and "special order" tells me it is possibly being discontinued also. So I'm not really sure.
I was also looking at this Samsung: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-60-class-60-diag--led-1080p-120hz-smart-3d-hdtv/4327014.p?id=121...
The reviews on Best Buy's site were great, but on other sites they are a little more mixed.
I was also looking at this Sharp:
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/sharp-aquos-q-series-60-class-60-3-32-diag--led-1080p-240hz-smart-3d-hdt...
I really want the 3D feature, otherwise I would just get an HDTV or a Smart TV. I originally wanted passive 3D because I own a 32" Vizio that uses it and it's cheaper to buy the glasses, but at this point I don't mind if it's active 3D.
I'm open to any other suggestions for 3D TVs that you might know of and if they aren't available on Best Buy's site for immediate delivery, that's fine too.
As for the setup, I have a stand with a mount built in already. It holds up to 65" and 135 pounds. I currently have a 46" Zenith on it. I have plenty of room for the 60" and the distance from my TV is at least 10 feet.
Any suggestions for 60" 3D TVs around or under the $1600 price limit would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Solved!
Go to Solution.

KateMcK0023 wrote:
Unfortunately I can't afford the more expensive model, but it looks really nice. I'm favoring the Samsung I posted in my original message because for the price and the ratings, it seems to be the best fit for me. It comes with two pairs of glasses. The LG doesn't come with any, but with the cheaper price it wouldn;t be too bad to purchase some. However, the very minimal amount of reviews worries me. I do like the Sharp TV, but that is the most expensive of the three and doesn't include glasses either. So I think the Samsung is my best option. I've seen mixed reviews on their customer service, but the products seem to mostly receive positive reviews.
For the calibration disc, would it be easy for a novice to understand? I'm usually pretty good with technology, but I don't want to screw anything up. Is it one of those type of things where I can just put the disc in my Blu-ray player and let it kind of do its own thing? I just don't want to do any damage to the new TV.
I also read online that I should get a surge protector for the TV because of how high powered that, my Blu-ray player, and other systems will be all in one area.
And finally, do you have any suggestions for a good soundbar or any sound system options that are relatively cheap? No more than maybe $150-$200? I also wanted to have Best Buy install the TV for me, but the price of $200 is a little steep. Do you suggest having them install it? Thank you for all your help!
I'd take the ratings on the Best Buy website with a grain of salt. None of those reviews have been done by a professional that has the calibration equipment and the knowledge necesarry to do an in depth analysis of the TV.
David Katzmeier at Cnet does a great job of reviewing TV's and has listings of recommended models.
http://www.cnet.com/topics/tvs/
The Samung you listed is a VERY average LCD TV. I wouldn't recommend it to anyone. I actually don't recommend Samsung LCD TV's to anyone for a few reasons. Until you hit the higher end models, you play what's called "panel lottery", meaning you don't know who actually made the screen. Their customer service has had issues in the past as well.
I checked around and the Vizio TV's are in stock at other retailers, the latest models are getting very good reviews over at Cnet.
However, if you're deteremined to get a 60" TV and Best Buy is the only purchasing option you have, the Sony KDL60W850B is on sale right now for a hair under $1700.00.
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/sony-bravia-60-class-60-diag--led-1080p-120hz-smart-3d-hdtv/3419019.p?id...
If not, Drop down to 51" and get the Samsung 8500 series plasma for about $1800.00.
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-51-class-50-3-4-diag--plasma-1080p-600hz-smart-3d-hdtv/8490071.p...
If you can skip 3D, the Samung 5300 series plasma is available in 60" for $800.00 and is very highly regarded.
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-60-class-59-9-10-diag--plasma-1080p-600hz-hdtv/8182045.p?id=1218...
The Disney Calibration disc is very easy to use. It will help you set things like brightness, contrast, color, and tint, along with other settings to their appropriate levels.
You should use a surge protector for ALL your appliances, anything from Belkin is fine, don't get the cheapest surge protector, but there's also no need to buy the most expesive one. Surge protectors do wear out with time, replace them every few years.
I don't have much experience with sound bars, any name brand that has HDMI in/out should be fine and will be better than the speakers in any of the TV's. If you can budget it, get one with a seperate subwoofer.

The best option to create a shared storage for Oracle 11gR2 RAC in OEL 5?

Hello,
Could you please tell me the best option to create a shared storage for Oracle 11gR2 RAC in Oracel Enterprise Linux 5? in production environment? And could you help to create shared storage? Because there is no additional step in Oracle installation guide. There are steps for only asm disk creation.
Thank you.

Here are names of partitions and permissions. Partitions which have 146 GB, 438 GB, 438 GB of capacity are my storage. Two of three disks which are 438 GB were configured as RAID 5 and remaining disk was configured as RAID 0. My storage is Dell MD 3000i and connected to nodes through ethernet.
Node 1
[root@rac1 home]# ll /dev/sd*
brw-r----- 1 root disk 8, 0 Aug 8 17:39 /dev/sda
brw-r----- 1 root disk 8, 1 Aug 8 17:40 /dev/sda1
brw-r----- 1 root disk 8, 16 Aug 8 17:39 /dev/sdb
brw-r----- 1 root disk 8, 17 Aug 8 17:39 /dev/sdb1
brw-r----- 1 root disk 8, 32 Aug 8 17:40 /dev/sdc
brw-r----- 1 root disk 8, 48 Aug 8 17:41 /dev/sdd
brw-r----- 1 root disk 8, 64 Aug 8 18:26 /dev/sde
brw-r----- 1 root disk 8, 65 Aug 8 18:43 /dev/sde1
brw-r----- 1 root disk 8, 80 Aug 8 18:34 /dev/sdf
brw-r----- 1 root disk 8, 81 Aug 8 18:43 /dev/sdf1
brw-r----- 1 root disk 8, 96 Aug 8 18:34 /dev/sdg
brw-r----- 1 root disk 8, 97 Aug 8 18:43 /dev/sdg1
[root@rac1 home]# fdisk -l
Disk /dev/sda: 72.7 GB, 72746008576 bytes
255 heads, 63 sectors/track, 8844 cylinders
Units = cylinders of 16065 * 512 = 8225280 bytes
Device Boot Start End Blocks Id System
/dev/sda1 * 1 8844 71039398+ 83 Linux
Disk /dev/sdb: 72.7 GB, 72746008576 bytes
255 heads, 63 sectors/track, 8844 cylinders
Units = cylinders of 16065 * 512 = 8225280 bytes
Device Boot Start End Blocks Id System
/dev/sdb1 * 1 4079 32764536 82 Linux swap / Solaris
Disk /dev/sdd: 20 MB, 20971520 bytes
1 heads, 40 sectors/track, 1024 cylinders
Units = cylinders of 40 * 512 = 20480 bytes
Device Boot Start End Blocks Id System
Disk /dev/sde: 146.2 GB, 146278449152 bytes
255 heads, 63 sectors/track, 17784 cylinders
Units = cylinders of 16065 * 512 = 8225280 bytes
Device Boot Start End Blocks Id System
/dev/sde1 1 17784 142849948+ 83 Linux
Disk /dev/sdf: 438.8 GB, 438835347456 bytes
255 heads, 63 sectors/track, 53352 cylinders
Units = cylinders of 16065 * 512 = 8225280 bytes
Device Boot Start End Blocks Id System
/dev/sdf1 1 53352 428549908+ 83 Linux
Disk /dev/sdg: 438.8 GB, 438835347456 bytes
255 heads, 63 sectors/track, 53352 cylinders
Units = cylinders of 16065 * 512 = 8225280 bytes
Device Boot Start End Blocks Id System
/dev/sdg1 1 53352 428549908+ 83 Linux
Node 2
[root@rac2 ~]# ll /dev/sd*
brw-r----- 1 root disk 8, 0 Aug 8 17:50 /dev/sda
brw-r----- 1 root disk 8, 1 Aug 8 17:51 /dev/sda1
brw-r----- 1 root disk 8, 2 Aug 8 17:50 /dev/sda2
brw-r----- 1 root disk 8, 16 Aug 8 17:51 /dev/sdb
brw-r----- 1 root disk 8, 32 Aug 8 17:52 /dev/sdc
brw-r----- 1 root disk 8, 33 Aug 8 18:54 /dev/sdc1
brw-r----- 1 root disk 8, 48 Aug 8 17:52 /dev/sdd
brw-r----- 1 root disk 8, 64 Aug 8 17:52 /dev/sde
brw-r----- 1 root disk 8, 65 Aug 8 18:54 /dev/sde1
brw-r----- 1 root disk 8, 80 Aug 8 17:52 /dev/sdf
brw-r----- 1 root disk 8, 81 Aug 8 18:54 /dev/sdf1
[root@rac2 ~]# fdisk -l
Disk /dev/sda: 145.4 GB, 145492017152 bytes
255 heads, 63 sectors/track, 17688 cylinders
Units = cylinders of 16065 * 512 = 8225280 bytes
Device Boot Start End Blocks Id System
/dev/sda1 * 1 8796 70653838+ 83 Linux
/dev/sda2 8797 12875 32764567+ 82 Linux swap / Solaris
Disk /dev/sdc: 146.2 GB, 146278449152 bytes
255 heads, 63 sectors/track, 17784 cylinders
Units = cylinders of 16065 * 512 = 8225280 bytes
Device Boot Start End Blocks Id System
/dev/sdc1 1 17784 142849948+ 83 Linux
Disk /dev/sdd: 20 MB, 20971520 bytes
1 heads, 40 sectors/track, 1024 cylinders
Units = cylinders of 40 * 512 = 20480 bytes
Device Boot Start End Blocks Id System
Disk /dev/sde: 438.8 GB, 438835347456 bytes
255 heads, 63 sectors/track, 53352 cylinders
Units = cylinders of 16065 * 512 = 8225280 bytes
Device Boot Start End Blocks Id System
/dev/sde1 1 53352 428549908+ 83 Linux
Disk /dev/sdf: 438.8 GB, 438835347456 bytes
255 heads, 63 sectors/track, 53352 cylinders
Units = cylinders of 16065 * 512 = 8225280 bytes
Device Boot Start End Blocks Id System
/dev/sdf1 1 53352 428549908+ 83 Linux
[root@rac2 ~]#
Thank you.
Edited by: user12144220 on Aug 10, 2011 1:10 AM
Edited by: user12144220 on Aug 10, 2011 1:11 AM
Edited by: user12144220 on Aug 10, 2011 1:13 AM

What is the best option for 'update.... set' in owb?

Hello.
I have been reading on a number of ways to implement following query in OWB:
update TABLE A
set Value F = (select Value B
from table B
where (nvl(trim(A.valueC),trim(A.valueD) = trim(B.ValueF)
and substr(A.valueG,1,2) = trim(B.valueH))
or ( nvl(trim(A.valueC),trim(A.valueD)) is null
and trim(B.valueF) is null
and substr(A.valueG,1,2) = trim(B.ValueH)
The table A and table B do not have a relationship.
Key lookup - some of you recommend not to use it as it is not very good.
Set Operator or Joiner? What would be better?
I created a function for this query, but i cannot use it in the map because i get this error:
API8003:coonection target attribute group is already conncted to an incompatable data source. Use a Joiner or Set operator to join the upstream data first before conncting it into this operator.
What would be the best way to do it? how i can pass the parameters from two different tables into my function? What feature of OWB would be the best option i cannot use for this?
Or my best bit to re-create it as a procedure and run it that way?
Thank you very much for your help
Kind Regards
Vix

Hopefully this is helpful and it makes sense written out.
First, I'm not sure if there are some parenthesis missing in your update statement because I can't tell for sure whether the statements separated by the 'or' should be considered separately [ as in "(a = b and a=c) or (c = d)" vs "a = b and a = c or c = d" ] or if the logic is exactly as written. My suggestion is based on the idea that the query is exactly as written -- if parenthesis were missing, insert them as appropriate.
My suggestion is to use a join. Even though you say A and B don't have a relationship, they sort of do based on the update statement.
I would suggest that you start with source A and insert an expression operator. You'll send in ValueC, ValueD, ValueG. You create three outputs:
BValueF = nvl(trim(A.valueC),trim(A.valueD))
BValueH = substr(A.valueG,1,2)
NullValue = nvl(trim(A.valueC),trim(A.valueD))
Then add source table B and insert another expression operator. You'll send in ValueF and ValueH. You create two outputs:
TValueF = trim(B.valueF)
TValueH = trim(B.valueH)
Then insert a join operator. For ingrp1, you'll drag over whatever can uniquely identify A and the three outputs from the expression. For ingrp2, drag over ValueB and the two outputs from the expression.
Then your join condition will be
BValueF = TValueF
and BValueH = TValueH
or NullValue is null
and TValueF is null
and BValueH = TValueH
Then add your target table A, set it to update on the unique key. Drag the unique key from the joiner to the unique key on A, and drag ValueB to A's ValueF.
Hopefully this makes sense written out. I didn't test this, but it looks logically correct on paper.
Good luck,
Heather

Best option for Croatia vacation

Hi there! I'm traveling to Croatia next week (live in the U.S.), and I'm hoping to find the best option to use Skype over wifi to stay connected while I'm there. What are your thoughts on the lowest cost option?

a-seifert wrote:
Hi there! I'm traveling to Croatia next week (live in the U.S.), and I'm hoping to find the best option to use Skype over wifi to stay connected while I'm there. What are your thoughts on the lowest cost option?
What are you wanting to do with Skype? Call back to the USA? Call phones in Croatia (or other places in Europe)? Receive calls from back in the USA while in Croatia?
The lowest-cost option would be to use Skype to communicate with other Skype users, when you are on WiFI or other sort of Internet connection not tied to a US-based mobile phone. Skype-to-Skype calls are free, including one-on-one video chats. Then what do you want to do - call back to the US? If so, two options are available... purchase some Skype Credit and pay as you make calls, at the US rate of 2.3 US cents/minute plus a connection fee per call. More on the per-call pricing is available at the "Pay As You Go" link at the bottom of this web page. If you think you'll need to be on the phone a lot, the Unlimited USA & Canada subscription at US$ 2.99/month is a great deal. Click on "Subscriptions" below for more on that option.
Do you want to receive calls from back home with your Skype account? A US-based Online Number is an option. You can purchase numbers in most US states and area codes, in 3- or 12-month increments. Click on "Online Number" below for more about that.
If you have a mobile phone or tablet that can run the Skype app, you can use that wherever you have access to the Internet. US-based mobile phones, including 3G tablets tied to a US mobile carrier, could lead to a very expensive bill from your mobile carrier when you return home. Use WiFi wherever you can to avoid that. If you must use a mobile phone while in Croatia, you may want to purchase a cheap phone with prepaid SIM card over there. That may work out very well for calls in Croatia, rather than run up roaming charges using a US-based mobile phone in a foreign country.
Anything else?
Patrick
Location/Ubicacion: Arizona USA
Time Zone/Hora Local: UTC/GMT -7
If this message has adequately addressed your issue, please click on the “Accept as Solution” button. If you found a post useful then please "Give Kudos" at the bottom of my post, so that this information can benefit others.
Si esto mensaje le ha ayudado, por favor haga clic en "Aceptar como solución". Si encuentra un mensaje útil, por favor "Da Kudos" al final del mensaje, por lo que esta información puede beneficiar a otros.
I am not a Skype employee. No soy un empleado de Skype.

Best option for hosting forms online and archiving the completed forms?

Forgive the length of this post, but I feel it necessary to give a little background information into our problem.
We were looking for a simple solution to a seemingly simple problem: Host ~15 safety forms online for field technicians (electricians) to fill out via their netbooks and submit to some sort of repository for archiving with the ability for the technicians to reopen the forms and make additions over the course of the job / week as well as firing an email off to our H&S rep per form submitted.
Acrobat + Remote Desktop Services (SBS 2011 network) + Reader seemed like a good solution and does work, but it's somewhat cumbersome for the less computer literate techs and proving to be more time in support then we are potentially saving going with paperless forms. This is the system we have in place now.
We initially purchased Acrobat Standard and subsequently upgraded to Professional when we found some limitations we weren't expecting in Acrobat Standard. An Adobe Sales rep also suggested that we check out Livecycle Designer 9, which was included with Acrobat Pro which included even more nice stuff. I started re-authoring the forms in LCD9.
The issue now is that I have Dynamic XML forms with flowed content that cannot be submitted by Reader to sharepoint. Why? You can't reader extend livecycle forms with acrobat, which it is bundled with.....
Why exactly adobe has two different and somewhat incompatible forms authoring tools bundled in the same product is beyond me, especially when one of them requires what I would imagine is an expensive server product to enable it's full use?
So it seems I have a choice between having my employer purchase Reader Extensions ES2 to maintain the nice form design with flowed content, purchasing 12 copies of acrobat to put on the netbooks when Reader SHOULD be all that we need or converting all the dynamic XML forms authored in LCD9 into static AcroForms so they can be reader extended and deployed to sharepoint.
We envision our technicians browsing to and logging in to our hosted sharepoint server, selecting the appropriate form template from a drop down list in a doc library or list, which opens the form for completion in the browser and on submit posts the form to a list on sharepoint for completed forms, preferably with some key fields mapped to custom columns in said list AND with the ability for the submitting technician to re-open the submitted form from sharepoint and make additions as the week / job progresses.
What would be the best option given our current situation and needs? With all due respect, I am looking for suggestions from technically oriented or experienced persons, not sales reps that don't fully know the product.

Ok, so I have done some additional reading and I've found out that Livecycle forms can be submitted via reader without reader extensions so long as the submit is via HTTP Post or as XML data only.
This effectively means you can collect the data from the submitted forms for processing, but you can not re-render the form from the form template and the XML without the presumably expensive server component, Reader Extensions, which for all I know, requires other components to run.
This all seems awfully expensive for a solution to host a dozen or so forms and archive the submissions in one place where they can be re-opened and added to.
I don't undestand why it's so prohibitively expensive to submit dynamic PDF forms as PDF vs submitting static PDF forms as PDF, which can be done with Acrobat Pro all by itself at ~$500.

Best option for replacing a faulty ATI Radeon x 2600 XT 256mb

My graphics card has just packed up, and I am struggling to find anybody at the Apple Technical Support service to give me a straight answer.
I am not a gamer, and only require a card that will allow me day today use and for general camcorder editing (novice level).
I had an ATI Radeon HD 2600 XT - standard install. in my MacPro (early 2008) 2.8Ghz, Dual Quad Intel chipset, OSX 10.6 (snow leopard).
Can anyone recommend the best option for ATI card, as I have read theyh perform better than the Nvidia cards.

I'd get ATI HD Radeon 4870 Mac Edition from Apple.
The GT is more like spare or for 3 monitors. Why or how Nvidia got that card to be adopted as the OEM standard in a workstation, and not say GTS/GTX 200 series is, beyond me. One year ATI, next year Nvidia gets the "prize" seems to be the order of the day.
Nvidia drivers have been a problem for Apple for years, the GTX 285 would do some serious damage to 3D and CS4/5. Two dual width card design the way a Quadro CX handles CS4 for Windows to do realtime image rendering instantly.
I wouldn't flash unless you like to dabble or want to learn. In which case a 1GB card would make more sense.
Surprised though the manager didn't steer you toward the 4870.

Best option for video conferencing in ios app ?

I want to implement video conferencing in ios app. what is the best option for this?

There are several: Fuze, Webex, are a few. These two also have desktop components. Try looking in the app store and googling to see if you can also find reviews/suggestions and other options on the web.

What's the best option to get the best out of my h...

Prior to the speed upgrade I was connecting at 38MB/ 8MB and now checking my speed via BBMAX I'm connecting at 62MB/14MB (BT speedchecker advised 56.6MB/18MB) so are pleased with the upgrade.
My main pc tests as above connected to the home hub 3 via a Cat 5 cable. Testing the other PCs/ PS3 in the rest of the house the best I can connect is 33MB via a wireless n usb adaptor. I've tried TP link 200MB power line adaptors connected to the home hub and to the PC using the house power circuits and still only obtain 33MB on the speed test (the T link utility shows I'm connecting at 133MB).
I assume my wireless network is being limited due to other older G type devices (such as mobile phones etc) bringing the wireless N network down to their level?
So to get the best out of my broadband in the rest of the house, should I upgrade to TP link 500MB units, get a dual band router (which will run G and N type devices) or are these two upgrades not worth it and should I take a hit and hard wire and have all the problems of running the cat 5 cables to the rest of the house?
PS as a side note my son has the PS Vita and cant get any speed results faster than 13MB on the wireless network

hmmm - you have lots of options and it really pays to think them all through for what you want to achieve. Don't lose sight of that.
i now use time capsule and with the dual band noted an immediate improvement to the extent that i'm nicely wireless throughout my house. My sons use PS3 wirelessly and get a fast, stable connection all the time (16-18mg). I don't care too much that wirelessly might not be best option. It exceeds my needs .
You'll get alot of views from the guys on this forum - each with their own experiences and trials/errors - lots of good learning!!
cheers
AC

I was told that it takes about 10 years to outdate a MAC desktop, which I think is the case, but I have ran out of storage. What is the best option?

I was told that it takes about 10 years to outdate a MAC desktop, which I think is the case, but I have ran out of storage. What is the best option?

There is no one best for everyong.
For most though: a dedicated boot drive. $105 Samsung 840 SSD is best in that category
WD Black in 1 to 4TB (1-4 drives) for up to 16TB of storage.
Sonnet Tempo Pro PCIe SSD card to boot from and boost SSD speed, as well as free up your drive bays for the other drives.
2-4 backup sets. One or two used for TimeMachine. Two or three clones of your system. Even clone your critical data.
And then there is external storage of unlimited size, capacity and expansion.
Upgrade your system drive every year or two and move the current drive to use as a backup set.
SSD: Samsung 840 128GB
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Series-120GB-internal-MZ-7TD120BW/dp/B009NHAF06/
SSD Maintenance
Icy Dock $15
http://www.amazon.com/2-5-3-5-Ssd-sata-Convert/dp/B002Z2QDNE/
Sonnet Technologies Tempo SSD 6Gb/s SATA PCIe
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Sonnet%20Technologies/TSATA6SSDE/
WD Black 1TB $85
http://www.amazon.com/Western-Digital-Caviar-Internal-Desktop/dp/B0036Q7MV0/
WD 3TB $225
Western Digital 3TB WD Black SATA III 7200 RPM 64 MB Cache Desktop Hard Drive WD3001FAEX
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B2UWTHE/
WD Green 3TB $149 - (might want WD RED NAS/RAID 3TB though)
http://www.amazon.com/Western-Digital-Caviar-Green-Desktop/dp/B004RORMF6/
WD VR 10K 250GB $103 200MB/sec boot drive :
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007V5A1BK/
Those last and last and make a nice boot drive.
Using Cloning as a Backup Strategy
http://www.macupdate.com/app/mac/7032/carbon-copy-cloner http://www.bombich.com/software/updates/ccc-3.5.html
How to clone your system:
http://macperformanceguide.com/Mac-HowToClone-backup.html
http://macperformanceguide.com/Mac-HowToClone.html
http://www.macupdate.com/app/mac/7032/carbon-copy-cloner
http://www.macperformanceguide.com/blog/2012/20120711_2-MacPro-internal-clone-ba ckup.html

We need advice on what cloud service is the best option for us

Hello,
I work for a very small company, we have two designer. Both of the designers just go new computers and we are looking at switching to the cloud but are confused about what the best plan is for us. We mainly need the creative suites softwares but we occasionally both work with a few production suite programs as well. Again, it is only the two computers and we do not see a need to add anther computer within the new few years. What is the best option for us?

Team license links that may help
-http://www.adobe.com/creativecloud/buy/business.html
-manage your team account http://forums.adobe.com/thread/1460939?tstart=0

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