Best SSD for MacBook with a twist...

Hi all,
This is my first post in this forum, so hello.
I would like to get a SSD for my MacBook with a fairly decent amount of storage 60GB would be tight, 80GB would be fine, 120GB would be nice. I am not concerned about speed! As long as it's as fast as my 5400rpm stock HD, I really don't care.
What I do care about are these controller issues I've been hearing about. JMicron? I've been thinking about a OCZ Solid Series 120GB for $230, or an Intel X-25M 80GB for $290.
So my question is what is the best SSD to buy for size and stabilitiy, and not speed.

Go for Intel or Samsung if you can. Both players are also supplying many other brands. These 2 guys control the supply chain and the know-how.
So far, I'm happy with my kingspec in my MBA. Samsung in my Sony. Intel X25-M in my pc.

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Best SSD for Macbook Pro Early 2011?

It seems the top two contenders are Samsung 840 Pro and Crucial M500. From a real world perspective, would I even notice the difference between the two as far a speed goes (or any other ones for that matter). i guess I am just curious if anyone has found other SSD drives that work nicely with the macbook pro, with or without trim enabled. I know the 840 EVO has issues for whatever reason. What about the Seagate 600 which does not use Sandforce or Marvell, or other Marvell drives like Sandisk Extreme II or Plextor M5 pro xtreme?
Also, if you could had how long they have lasted and comment on whether there has been any degradation in quality, that would be helpful as well. Things such as temperature and battery life would be helpful as well. Most review sites are so focused on Windows, it makes it hard to know.
I've already upgraded my RAM with the Crucial 16gb package and that is working well, and I am just looking to do the one other upgrade that will make this laptop viable for a few more years.

JasonB824,
I went with the Samsung 840 PRO (with TRIM enabled) for my Mid 2010 MacBook Pro. I haven’t had it for very long, and it’s nowhere near full, so I can’t comment on its long term behavior. I haven’t observed any quality degradation yet, and it does come with a five-year warranty, so it should last a while. I almost always run my MacBook Pro plugged in, so I can’t comment on differences in battery duration between charges. (Hmmm, why did I reply? ) My MacBook Pro only supports SATA II, but since yours supports SATA III, you should see the full performance characteristics of whichever SATA III SSD you choose. Unless you’re engaged in heavy-duty disk-bound use, you’ll be unlikely to notice speed differences between your top contenders.

What's the best SSD for a Macbook Pro 13" Mid 2010?

Hello.
I will upgrade my 2010 Macbook Pro. I need to know what's the best SSD for my Macbook Pro. I was thinking about those:
- Kingston SSDNow V+200 (SVP200S37A/120G) - 120 GB
- CRUCIAL SSD M4 128 GB
- CORSAIR SSD Force Series GS 128 GB
- SAMSUNG SSD 840 Series Basic 2.5" - 120 GB (MZ-7TD120BW)
- CRUCIAL SSD interno Crucial v4 - 128 GB
Those are the easiest to find on Portugal.

It is my understanding that SATA III is backwards compatible to SATA II so that should not be an issue for your selection process.
As an aside, you might be interested to know that your MBP can now have 16 GB RAM installed.
http://blog.macsales.com/16353-owc-announces-maxram-memory-upgrades-to-16gb-for- 2010-mac-mini-macbook-and-macbook-pro
Ciao.

Best setup for iMac with SSD & HDD? Best location of scratch & home folders

Best setup for iMac with SSD and HDD? Best location of scratch & home folders?
Computer:
iMac 2.93 GHz Quad core i7, 8GB RAM, 1 TB HDD + 256 GB SSD
There is not much info from Apple about the best way to set up an iMac with a Hard Drive and Solid state drive. I’ve looked at a few of the forum posts across the web and came up with a plan and lots of questions. (I do use photoshop frequently, but not on a professional level):
1. I will keep OS and Applications on SSD
2. About moving the home folder: I saw some posts about moving the whole home folder, but it makes more sense to me to only move selected fodlers withing the home folder tomake the best use of the SSD. So will keep the home folder on SSD, but move certain folders (document /music/iphoto/download) to 1 TB HDD via instructions I found on the macintoshperformanceguide website:
cd
sudo cp -r Documents /Volumes/Master
sudo rm -rf Documents
sudo ln -s /Volumes/Master/Documents Documents
3. I would like to get 8 more RAM when I can afford it
4. I will attach an external hard drive for most of my documents and backup storage
5. Now here is where I’m not sure what’s best:
a. Should I partition my internal 1 TB hard drive and use the first partition as a scratch disc for photoshop and other applications? How much should I partition? Is there any benefit to this if the rive is partitioned?
b. Should I use an external drive as a scratch disc?
c. Any advice on a good 1-2 TB external drive?
d. Should I just leave things in factory settings?
Don't assume I know the basics - I got all the above just by searching around. Any advice and commentary is appreciatedThanks.
Message was edited by: sfandtheworld

Thanks for the advice and the links. yes, I would like to speed up ps as much as possible.
I wonder if putting the scratch disc on the same drive as the OS would cause them to interfere with each other? Even if they are on different partitions, they would not be able to be accessed at the same time, or could they? That's why I was wondering if I should place scratch disc on the internal HDD -- but then I don't know how much to partition for it (or to partition at all?)
ALso, I read on a few places that too much read/write on the SSD wears it down over time? Is this more of a theoretical concerns - it does not make sense to me since it has no moving parts!
thanks again for the advice ... I'm gonna go digest those links

What is the best antivirus for MacBook Pro?

What is the best antivirus for MacBook Pro?

1. This comment applies to malicious software ("malware") that's installed unwittingly by the victim of a network attack. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the victim's computer. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. If you have reason to suspect that you're the target of such an attack, you need expert help.
If you find this comment too long or too technical, read only sections 5, 6, and 10.
OS X now implements three layers of built-in protection specifically against malware, not counting runtime protections such as execute disable, sandboxing, system library randomization, and address space layout randomization that may also guard against other kinds of exploits.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user, but internally Apple calls it "XProtect." The malware recognition database is automatically checked for updates once a day; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets.
It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been a second layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't necessarily been tested by Apple, but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. That may not mean much if the developer lives in a country with a weak legal system (see below.)
Gatekeeper doesn't depend on a database of known malware. It has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could simply ignore the consequences of distributing codesigned malware.
An App Store developer could find a way to bypass Apple's oversight, or the oversight could fail due to human error.
For the reasons given above, App Store products, and other applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed, are safer than others, but they can't be considered absolutely safe. "Sandboxed" applications may prompt for access to private data, such as your contacts, or for access to the network. Think before granting that access. OS X security is based on user input. Never click through any request for authorization without thinking.
4. Starting with OS X 10.8.3, a third layer of protection has been added: a "Malware Removal Tool" (MRT). MRT runs automatically in the background when you update the OS. It checks for, and removes, malware that may have evaded the other protections via a Java exploit (see below.) MRT also runs when you install or update the Apple-supplied Java runtime (but not the Oracle runtime.) Like XProtect, MRT is presumably effective against known attacks, but maybe not against unknown attacks. It notifies you if it finds malware, but otherwise there's no user interface to MRT.
5. XProtect, Gatekeeper, and MRT reduce the risk of malware attack, but they're not absolute protection. The first and best line of defense is always your own intelligence. With the possible exception of Java exploits, all known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and the malware attacker. If you're smarter than he thinks you are, you'll win.
That means, in practice, that you never use software that comes from an untrustworthy source, or that does something inherently untrustworthy. How do you know what is trustworthy?
Any website that prompts you to install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one, is untrustworthy.
A web operator who tells you that you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, or that you have won a prize in a contest you never entered, is trying to commit a crime with you as the victim. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
Pirated copies or "cracks" of commercial software, no matter where they come from, are unsafe.
Software of any kind downloaded from a BitTorrent or from a Usenet binary newsgroup is unsafe.
Software that purports to help you do something that's illegal or that infringes copyright, such as saving streamed audio or video for reuse without permission, is unsafe. All YouTube "downloaders" are in this category, though not all are necessarily harmful.
Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be downloaded directly from the developer’s website. If it comes from any other source, it's unsafe.
Even signed applications, no matter what the source, should not be trusted if they do something unexpected, such as asking for permission to access your contacts, your location, or the Internet for no obvious reason.
6. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was always a bad idea, and Java's developers have proven themselves incapable of implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style virus affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful.
Fortunately, client-side Java on the Web is obsolete and mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice. Forget about playing games or other non-essential uses of Java.
Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it — not JavaScript — in your browsers.
Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a task on a specific site, enable Java only for that site in Safari. Never enable Java for a public website that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, login-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a lock icon in the address bar with the abbreviation "https" when visiting a secure site.
Follow the above guidelines, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can practically be. The rest of this comment concerns what you should not do to protect yourself from malware.
7. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they all do more harm than good, if they do any good at all. Any database of known threats is always going to be out of date. Most of the danger is from unknown threats. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use one of the free anti-virus products in the Mac App Store — nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial "anti-virus" products?
Their design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere.
In order to meet that nonexistent threat, the software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
By modifying the operating system, the software itself may create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
8. An anti-malware product from the App Store, such as "ClamXav," doesn't have these drawbacks. That doesn't mean it's entirely safe. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
An anti-virus app is not needed, and should not be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful only for detecting Windows malware. Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else.
A Windows malware attachment in email is usually easy to recognize. The file name will often be targeted at people who aren't very bright; for example:
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥!!!!!!!H0TBABEZ4U!!!!!!!.AVI♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥.exe
Anti-virus software may be able to tell you which particular virus or trojan it is, but do you care? In practice, there's seldom a reason to use the software unless a network administrator requires you to do it.
The ClamXav developer won't try to "upsell" you to a paid version of the product. Other developers may do that. Don't be upsold. For one thing, you should not pay to protect Windows users from the consequences of their choice of computing platform. For another, a paid upgrade from a free app will probably have the disadvantages mentioned in section 7.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.
10. As a Mac user you don't have to live in fear that your computer is going to be infected every time you install an application, read email, or visit a web page. But neither should you have the false idea that you will always be safe, no matter what you do. The greatest harm done by security software is precisely its selling point: it makes people feel safe. They may then feel safe enough to take risks from which the software doesn't protect them. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices.

Best SSD for A T420 under $200

Hi,
I am bumbling between a T420 and a X220, mostly because the X220 has a smaller screen and I am not sure how well I will be able to adjust to that (I already wear glasses, so ...).
Which is the best SSD for the T420 under $200? Almost any capacity above 100 GB should be fine for me since I plan to get an UltraBay and put the HDD there.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

punjabimunda wrote:
Any other brand than Crucial? I am more interested in the Intel series. Which Intel series should I be looking at? Like I said, I don't need mammoth sizes. Good speed is a +.
The Intel 520 series is also highly regarded, as is the Samsung 830 series. They're all good. You could do a Google search for reviews and comparison tests but I suspect you'll be happy with any of these.
Cheers... Dorian Hausman
X1C2, TPT2, T430s, SL500, X61s, T60p, A21p, 770, 760ED... 5160, 5150... S360/30

Best SSD For t400

Hey all,
We have been starting to replace alot of the old hdd with sdd for our thinkpads and have ran into alittle trouble with some of the ocz agility 2 and the ocz vertex 2 ssd drives being bad, My question is what SSD drive is most compatible with the t400, t420s and the x100e laptops. we are looking for hi iops. Any Suggestions would be wonderful.
Thank you

I have a Crucial C300 (CTFDDAC256MAG-1G1) in my T60 for the last 18 months and have been very happy with it. It is the 256GB which was purchased from MicroCenter in metro Detroit for $600. It is now about $400. I might also ad that I have the highest opinion of Crucial RAM and their service. I have puchased all of my RAM from them directily via their website.
Here is a recent post from the forum.thinkpads.com:
Best SSD for ThinkPads:
Intel (X25-V/M/E, 310, 320, 510), Crucial/Micron (C300, m4), and Samsung (470, 830) models are currently the most reliable brands to get.
If you can't get any of those, steer clear of SATA 6Gb/s SandForce drives and OCZ in general. (The older generation of SandForce drives are more reliable than the new ones are.)
ThinkPad T530 2359-CTO i7-3520M (up to 3.60 GHz) 16GB RAM, 250GB Samsung 840 SSD, 15.6" 1600 x 900 LED, NVIDIA NVS 5400M Graphics with Optimus Technology
ThinkPad T60 8744-5BU
T7200(2GHz), 4GB RAM, 256GB Crucial C-300 SSD HD, 15.4in 1680x1050 LCD, 256MB ATI MOBILITY FireGL V5250, CDRW/DVDRW, Win7 Ultimate 32bit

Best practice for dealing with Recordsets

Hi all,
I'm wondering what is best practice for dealing with data retrieved via JDBC as Recordsets without involving third part products such as Hibernate etc. I've been told to NOT use RecordSets throughout in my applications since they are taking up resources and are expensive. I'm wondering which collection type is best to convert RecordSets into. The apps I'm building are webbased using JSPs as presentation layer, beans and servlets.
Many thanks
Erik

There is no requirement that DAO's have a direct mapping to Database Tables. One of the advantages of the DAO pattern is that the business layer isn't directly aware of the persistence layer. If the joined data is used in the business code as if it were an unnormalized table, then you might want to provide a DAO for the joined data. If the joined data provides a subsiduray object within some particular object, you might add the access method to the DAO for the outer object.
eg:
In a user permissioning system where:
1 user has many userRoles
1 role has many userRoles
1 role has many rolePermissions
1 permission has many rolePermissions
ie. there is a many to many relationship between users and roles, and between roles and permissions.
The administrator needs to be able to add and delete permissions for roles and roles for users, so the crud for the rolePermissions table is probably most useful in the RoleDAO, and the crud for the userRoles table in the UserDAO. DOA's also can call each other.
During operation the system needs to be able to get all permissions for a user at login, so the UserDAO should provide a readPermissions method that does a rather complex join across the user, userRole, rolePermission and permission tables..
Note that f the system I just described were done with LDAP, a Hierarchical database or an Object database, the userRoles and rolePermissions tables wouldn't even exist, these are RDBMS artifacts since relational databases don't understand many to many relationships. This is good reason to avoid providing DAO's that give access to those tables.

What is the best stylus for macbook pro?

What is the best stylus for macbook pro?

I dont understand? Why would a mac use a stylus when they aren't touchscreen?

What's best strategy for dealing with 40+ hours of footage

We have been editing a documentary with 45+ hours of footage and presently have captured roughly 230 gb. Needless to say it's a lot of files. What's the best strategy for dealing with so much captured footage? It's almost impossible to remember it all and labeling it while logging it seems inadequate as it difficult to actually read comments in dozens and dozens of folders.
Just looking for suggestions on how to deal with this problem for this and future projects.
G5 Dual Core 2.3 Mac OS X (10.4.6) 2.5 g ram, 2 internal sata 2 250gb

Ditto, ditto, ditto on all of the previous posts. I've done four long form documentaries.
First I listen to all the the sound bytes and digitize only the ones that I think I will need. I will take in much more than I use, but I like to transcribe bytes from the non-linear timeline. It's easier for me.
I had so many interviews in the last doc that I gave each interviewee a bin. You must decide how you want to organize the sound bytes. Do you want a bin for each interviewee or do you want to do it by subject. That will depend on you documentary and subject matter.
I then have b-roll bins. Sometime I base them on location and sometimes I base them on subject matter. This last time I based them on location because I would have a good idea of what was in each bin by remembering where and when it was shot.
Perhaps, you weren't at the shoot and do not have this advantage. It's crucial that you organize you b-roll bins in a way that makes sense to you.
I then have music bins and bins for my voice over.
Many folks recommend that you work in small sequences and nest. This is a good idea for long form stuff. That way you don't get lost in the timeline.
I also make a "used" bin. Once I've used a shot I pull it out of the bin and put it "away" That keeps me from repeatedly looking at footage that I've already used.
The previous posts are right. If you've digitized 45 hours of footage you've put in too much. It's time to start deleting some media. Remember that when you hit the edit suite, you should be one the downhill slide. You should have a script and a clear idea of where you're going.
I don't have enough fingers to count the number of times that I've had producers walk into my edit suite with a bunch of raw tape and tell me that that "want to make something cool." They generally have no idea where they're going and end up wondering why the process is so hard.
Refine your story and base your clip selections on that story.
Good luck
Dual 2 GHz Power Mac G5 Mac OS X (10.4.8)

Best method for networking with ubuntu linux

Hi,
I'm setting up an ubuntu linux fileserver, and I was wondering what the best method for filesharing with my mac is. I'm currently running osx 10.4.11, though I may be upgrading to 10.5 soon. I'll be running SMB networking for a couple of other computers, but I'd prefer something a bit more robust that can handle file permissions etc.

Mac OS X supports NSF out of the box. Configuration isn't documented.
I recall Apple got rid of net info manager in Leopard, so the configuration will be different. Perhaps more unix like.
Mac OS X support the Unix Network File System (NFS). However, it leaves out
the GUI.
This page show you how to use NetInfo Manager:
http://mactechnotes.blogspot.com/2005/09/mac-os-x-as-nfs-server.html#c1168221713 40271068
NFS Manager can both setup NFS shares and connect to NFS shares.
http://www.bresink.com/osx/NFSManager.html
Once you figure out how NFS Manager configures the NFS shares, you can
use Applications > Utilities > NetInfo Manager to create more shares.
You will either have to coordinate Unix Userid number and Unix Group Id number or use the mapall option on the share.
To find out your Mac OS X userid and group id do:
applications > utilities > terminal
ls -ln
ls -l
# lists the NFS share on your mac
showmount -e localhost
#list NFS shares on a remote host
showmount -e remote-ip-address
Once you see what NFS Manager does, you will be able to use NetInfo Manager to manage a connection. In Mac OS 10.4 you can configure the /etc/exports control file. See man exports for the details. Before that you had to have the data in NetInfo manager. When Mac OS X came out, many common Unix control files were not present. Instead the data had to be in NetInfo manager. Over time Apple has added more and more standard Unix control files.
======
You do know about the need to match userids & groupids.
# display uid and gid
ls -ln
sudo find / -user short-user-name -exec ls '-l' {} \;
# on Mac OS X
you will need to go into NetInfo Manager and select user and find your short-user-name. Change uid and guid.
#on Linux look in
/etc/passwd
/etc/group
# with care...
# change 1000:20 to your values for uid:gid
sudo find / -user short-user-name -exec chown 1000:20 {} \;
The manual for Tenon MachTen UNIX (which Apple checked when doing Mac OS
X) says that one should crate the file /etc/exports, which will cause
portmap, mountd and nsfd to launch at startup via the /etc/rc file. The
file must not contain any blank lines or comments, and each line has the
syntax
directory -option[, option] hostlist
where 'directory is the pathname of the directory that can be exported,
and 'hostlist' is a space separated list of hostnames that can access the
directory. For example
/usr -ro foo bar
/etc
/Applications
/User/gladys gladys
The client the uses a command like
/sbin/mount -t type [-rw] -o [options] server:directory mount_point
where 'type' is 'nfs', 'server' the name of the server, 'directory' the
server directory mounted, and 'mount_point' the client mount point. See
'man mount' for details.
I haven't tried the above, but it would be nice to know if it works on Mac OS X.
Hans Aberg
This will give you some hints on NFS. Post back your questions.
Robert

Best ssd for mini 210-4000 n2800

best ssd for hp mini 210-4000 in terms of ideal specs for what it mite be capable of handling such as read and write speed.

I know this is some time ago yet some one looking for same answer might find this useful. I find reviews about SSDs - one for example is : http://ssd.userbenchmark.com/ it describes - Samsung 850 Pro 256GB as best performer - Compares several SSD to others. Therefore hard to write without buying many and testing.

Best SSD for late 2008 Macbook?

Afternoon,
I'm also looking for an SSD for my late 2008 aliminum Macbook. It's the 2ghz model : model number- A1278.
Can anyone suggest one that's fast and reliable, but not too exspensive. I'm looking in the 250 GB range.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH IN ADVANCE!
BertieTBE

OCZ Vertex 3! Bar none!. For this model, only 2 SSD works reliably with the MCP79 problem that hosts the sata controller. OCZ did their best work to rectify this situation where it works flawlessly now. Crucial M4 SSDs also works well without any effort. Vertex is very fast and lower cost than most SSDs due to aggressive price pushing by OCZ.
Here is the right method of doing upgrade.
1) Use a desktop PC to update the firmware of the SSD before installing. Choose Mac version or latest version.
Set the sata 2 setting and temperature fix using the CD software of OCZ. Best firmware update anyone has ever created!.
2) Put SSD in USB enclosure and connect it to your Mac. Download SuperDuper software for Mac to clone your existing disk.
3) Run SuperDuper to clone. 1 hours or less.
4) Shutdown everything and swap the HDD with the SSD.
5) On Bootup, then quickly Reset SMC, Left-Shift Control Option (3 fingers on these) and Power button. Remove Magsafe power, remove the battery, Press POWER with all those things removed for 5 sec. Put battery back, Magsafe on and power up.
6) On Powering up, quicky do NVRAM reset with OPTION COMMAND P R keys. Hold it until it chimes twice, then release. See it boot in 15 seconds and "One More thing ....."
7) Last step, on boot up, Download TRIM Enabler 2.2 and run it. Check System profiler to see it is ON. Then enjoy. Remember to backup daily or weekly, SSDs can fail anytime without warning unlike HDD.
Note: This process can save people days of agony if they simply rush into the install without understanding the process and will cause all sorts of strange problems.

Best SSD for 2009 Macbook Pro?

Hi
I am looking to upgrading my Macbook Pro 2009 2.53 GHz processor and 8GB RAM.
The planned upgrade this time is an SSD.
I think I want a 120-128GB SSD. It will fit the Lion OS and applications and some application content as well. May be my photos and Aperture and my documents folder which I access the most frequently.
Question I have and one that I have not managed to answer after some research even, is that SSD is the best one for the Mac. And what SSD is the best bang for the buck.
TRIM - I gathered from my research that this is a good capability to have, but Mac OS does not support it natively.
I am not eager to do anything that tinkers with the OS settings etc. Opening the machine and installing this in place of the CD ROM will be enough of an adventure for me
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Great question. I have the same machine, though I'm looking for a 250gig SSD. Right now, it seems like a shootout between OCZ and OWC. I'd like other users' experiences with compatible SSD drives.

Advice needed on choosing the best SSD for 13-inch macbook 5,1.

I'm thinkning about to upgrade my macbook. It's a late 2008 aluminum version. I want to replace the old HD with a nice SSD. I'm struggling to choose from the following two SSD.
1. Crutial M500 (960G) SATA III 6Gbps
2. Intel dc s3700 (800G)
I can get both of these at similar price around 300pounds just for this 2 days. But I don't know which would work the best on my macbook. Need advice please.

Thanks for the link, unfortunatly there's no option for intel dc s3700.
After seeing crucial M500's score there, I'm not that empressed. I heard that the Intel dc s3700 (800G) worth over 1000pounds, is it worth it just for the sake of getting the intel at a much cheaper price? I don't know Why I've got the impression that Intel dc S3700 acturallly better than crucial M500.

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