Blink codes

HP Notebook PC Pavilion tx2513cl, Windows Vista 32-bit. Are there different blink codes for this product? Notebook has one blink code, so I installed a certified used processor (S1g2 for a processor - AMD Turion X2 (model# RM-70)), and still does not boot up. Left notebook with KChelpdesk.com (location were I purchased processor) and they state it is the motherboard, however, one blink continues, which is "CPU not functional" and hp website shows 5 blinks is "General system board failure" link to blink codes http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c01732674&cc=us&dlc=en&lc=en&product=3745852&tmp...

Correct, 1 LED code is Processor only. just need to focus on the How to identify teh codes.
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c01732674&cc=us&dlc=en&lc=en&product=3745852&tmp...
also there is a possiblity of systemboard issue which is giving a false code.
Regards,
WW
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Blink Code after System Update

Hi,
after Updating my Z10 to the latest Software Release the device doesn´t boot any more.
After turning on the device, the LED just have a blink code 1101111 - nothing more!
I have already unplugged the accu.
Any Ideas?

I'm having the same problem too...I've found that removing the battery to reset it has worked temporarily. Sometimes it takes 2 times to remove and replace the battery...or sometimes 15 times! I'm waiting for an OS update before I restart the phone again...hopefully my battery doesn't die during the day. I can't seem to find what the LED sequence means (1101111), I'm guessing it's a software glitch since it only started happening after the update to 10.3. I may try going back to 10.2 until a new update is available.

Start up problem - blink code?

Hello,
I'm new here so apologies if I have not found an already answered topic.
I have a HP dv7 Laptop (17.3'' 2009 model), and when fired up the screen is blank (not even lit), the num lock & caps lock flash simultaneously and continuously at an interval of approximately 3 seconds apart. I have been reading up on the 'hp blink codes', but as I interpret them, none of them apply to me...
My understanding is that there should be a number of blinks/beeps then they should stop, and, should you wish the laptop to repeat the code to push the power key...
Is there any sort of fault code for this, or even a resolve?
Thanks,
Chris
This question was solved.
View Solution.

Hey Christopher-B,
Unfortunately, it sounds like it might be the 1 blink patter which indicates a processor failure. The 1 blink pattern is just as you described: Blink, pause, blink, pause, blink, pause and so on. You may have already come across this document about blink codes before, but it will give you more information about this issue.
Does your computer ever start up properly or do you get the blink code every time? If it happens every time, it could be that the processor just needs to be reseated. Most likely, it will need to be replaced.
Let me know if you have any questions!

What is blinking code 88 on GPIB-ENET/100 mean?

Hi,
This is a continuation of the post "What is EDVR error 0xE1060077?" from a few days ago, which is still unresolved. I have recently noticed that the GPIB-ENET/100 was blinking code 88. Thinking that it might be code 89, I updgraded its firmware to C.9. However, this has not changed anything. I still get EDVR error 0xE1060077 using ibic. There are very brief (a minute or two) moments when it seems the GPIB-ENET/100 is working fine. Otherwise, it fails in the NI GPIB troubleshooting program. As for blinking code 88, I haven't spotted it yet; but I only saw it once before the other day, after leaving the GPIB-ENET/100 on for a while.

coopee,
Is your device still displaying an error code, or did it go away after you upgraded the firmware to C9? Error code 89 was a common error with the GPIB-ENET/100 which is why we released the C9 firmware. I would imagine that if you haven't seen an error code since you upgraded the firmware that you actually saw error 89. If you are still seeing an error code verify that it is indeed 8 long pulses, and 8 short pulses.
As far as your EDVR issue and sequentially verified failing. Is your GPIB-ENET/100 configured with DHCP, or a static IP address? Since you have two ENET/100s, and one is working, check to see if there is any difference in how they are configured. Are they both configured with DHCP or static? Are they both on the same subnet as your computer?
I suspect like Scott suggested that you are experiencing a networking issue.
Shawn B.
National Instruments
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Replaced CPU ... still get CPU failure blink code

I have a dv7-4060US, purchased in July, 2010, so it's out of warantee now. About Christmas or so, it died on me, and the blink code at startup said that it was a bad CPU. I've got a new laptop now, so there wasn't any urgency to repairing the old one, so I didn't get around to this until last weekend.
I bought a new CPU for it, and followed the service manual instructions for replacing the chip, but after powering it back on, I still get the same issue - blank screen, single blink. Yes, the part number on the CPU matches the part number from the old one. Yes, it's inserted correctly in the ZIF socket.
Any suggestions?

It was the motherboard not the CPU. CPU failures are very rare; motherboard failures common. I don't put a great deal of stock in blink codes.

Portege R100 - Orange blink code

Hi everybody,
I am Michael from Germany. I did use Toshiba laptops since the late 80th starting with my 1st computer, the Toshiba T1000 w/out a hdd...
I did repair a lot of them for myself, I always use 3-6 in my home parallel :o))) Especially the 34XX portege series, which are my fav ones with the tecra line, but anyway.
Now I have a new problem that I never had. I did buy some R100 to built me one fine. One mainboard the orange blinking error code: 00101100. I tried the common known things: w/ or w/out but nothing!
Does anyone knows which hexacode is hidden behind this blinking and which prob is hidden behind the right hexa, please?
google finds different answers and hexas like reading it from behind: 0011... and find 32h blabla but I want to ask you first, before I believe in this ;o))
till later + best
michael

Hi and thank you for your answers, both.
- i tried the ram module exchange thing before i posted here.
- i just ordered a new motherboard for it for a good price!
Akuma, did you mean the motherboard with PCB?
i removed the motherboard completely at the weekend and found some interesting things:
1. there were little animals on it. small fleas that look like those in old books in librarys.
the actual board is from philippines, maybe they have a "houseflea" in the philli-factory or something. if it is that, it is uncool for a big brand like toshiba
2. a bigger part of the board had signs of heavy corrodation on metal parts that i know from old guitars hardware, especially like old guitars that have had eir homes near salty oceans. AND i think this is the reason, why i have the blinking code
till later + best

G62 110SS light blinking codes ?

Same issue on my g62 - 149WM. With all devices removed as well, i.e kbd, hd,ood,fan,memory,WLAN.

Hi RonaldC,
Welcome to the HP Support Forums!
I gather that you are getting a blinking code when you start your notebook. I am happy to help you with this, however it looks like this post may have been moved from another thread so I am not sure of the full context of it.
You mention having all these devices removed; several of those devices are needed for startup and would cause the error code by their absence, like the memory.
So what was the original issue that presumably caused you to disconnect all the devices?
What version is your OS? Is the Windows Version on My Computer 32-bit or 64-bit?
As a start, here is a link to the support page for your notebook and a document of the notebook startup error codes.
HP G62-149WM Notebook PC Drivers
Blank Screen LED Error Codes
Depending on the number of flashes you are getting the document will point to the cause.
Let me know the results and we can proceed from there.
Regards,
Malygris1
I work on behalf of HP
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15 - j118tx Blink Code - 2 blinks - Corrupt Bios

I have refered to the Blink code 2 error resolving methods and they have failed, Still repeating the blinks and not restarting.
The article said my computer would probably not support the actions. Could someone please help me!

If you tried the Windows key + B and the BIOS rom file at the root of a usb flashdrive methods with no success, then chances are that you will need to have it sent in for repair.
Is your notebook still in warranty?
Check your warranty status Here.
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What do the power light blinking codes mean on cinema display?

I have a cinema display on my G4, and about a year ago or so I had to replace a backlight due to a failure. Tonight I see that the power light is blinking again in a repeatable sequence, and I am wondering where I learn what the sequence is telling me about the nature of the problem?
Power output of the display is reduced again, and I am hoping I do not need yet another backlight repair.

The meaning of the blink codes is not stated in the manual, but in this knowledge base article:
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=88366

CQ61z-300 Blink Code - 2 blinks - Corrupt Bios

Hi guys,
I'm getting a corrupt bios code on a Compaq CQ61Z-300. We've tried removing the battery, holding down the power button for a minute, plugging it in and turning it on to no avail. We've also tried Windows key + b to reset it and no luck. I even removed the CMOS battery for a few minutes to no avail.
I'd like to avoid replacing the whole motherboard. Can anyone show me what the bios chip looks like, and where I can get a replacement? I feel comfortable soldering it in myself. Thanks!
EDIT: I 'think' i found the bios chip. Is it the one right by the CMOS battery with an MX on top of it? If so, will desoldering and resoldering this back into place work or do I need a completely new chip?

The saga continues. I have found on the internet (but not at any HP hosted site) that if you prepare a FAT16 thumb drive (format /fs:FAT e and copy onto it the BIOS file, (renamed, taking out the last 3 characters and changing the .fd Like the following procedure taken from a forum post:
I go the thing to start the beeping thing. It beeped 7 times, but never shut down, nor did it seem to fix the bios, same symptoms. I might be doing something wrong, would be nice if HP would document this procedure.
Note, I got the BIOS update from HP, which wasn packed into a sp.....exe, that I could get the .fd file by opening with winrar (or zip?). Or, install it on another machine and exiti out of the BIOS update program (DON't try to run it!!)
1. Download the Bios version F.0C from
Software & Driver Downloads HP Pavilion dv5-1095eo Entertainment Notebook PC - HP Customer Care (Uni...
2. Extract this file to a new folder.
3. Rename the file 3602f0C.fd to 3603.fd
4. Make 3 more copies of newly 3603.fd, and renamed them3603.bin, 3603.rom and the last was only 3603
5. Copy all the four files on flash. The size of the flash should be as small as possible. Not more than 2 GB in my case.
6. Remove the Battery, Power Plug and press start button for 30 seconds.
then bout your fingers on Windows and "B" and then press power button.
7. Plug in the power cable. (If nothing happens then don't worry, you can just remove your finger from the power button and press that again because it takes some time to blink the lights on the laptop).
8. After the fist beep, remove the fingers from windows+B, and listen the number of beeps, there were a lot . May be due to the number of files on the flash.
9. After a long wait of 1 minute, it shuts down it self.
10. Then restart the laptop. in a minute you will get the initial bios screen,
asking for the settings.
11. You can reset the the booting sequence if you like to. Otherwise no problem.
12. What I did was that " I accepted the CMOS settings and restarted the laptop, and kept my pressing F11., for recovery and the my system was fully recovered.
That's it. It seems quite easy if you follow all the points by 0.0, raj85 and dannyres
But the difficult point to search for the Bios version and renaming it.
Again thanks to every one. Thanks Thanks.

Blink code 1 question

My girlfriend's pavilion dv4-1117nr stopped working. I kept telling her no to leave the computer on her bed. She didn't listen. The numlock and capslock lights were blinking once every 2 or 3 seconds. I know already it's a CPU not funtional. Since it's just CPU failure, will the cpu replacement solve the problem? Or are there other things related to it that might be broken as well?

@klint18
According to service documentation for dv5-1000 series models (which You may find here) below processors are compatible with this product:
AMD Turion™ Ultra Dual-Core 35W ZM-86 2.40-GHz with 2-MB L2 cache
AMD Turion Ultra Dual-Core 35W ZM-82 2.20-GHz, with 2-MB L2 cache
AMD Turion Ultra Dual-Core 35W ZM-80 2.10-GHz, with 2-MB L2 cache
AMD Turion Dual-Core 35W RM-70 2.00-GHz with 1-MB L2 cache
AMD Athlon™ X2 Dual-Core 35W QL-60 1.90-GHz with 1-MB L2 cache
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SPA3000, sos blink code, no access

Hello, I cannot access my SPA3000.
The status LED blinks 3 fast, 2 slow, 3 fast, which from everywhere I've read means corrupted firmware. Other forums allude to a recovery tool that can be
used to reflash the firmware.
I cannot access it by phone (no **** etc for reset), I cannot access it by
web browser (connection times out).
I ran nmap and found that it is getting an IP address, and I can ping the device,
but only ports 68 (dhcp) and 4810 are open. No tcp ports are open so no way
to access the device by web.
SPA-3000
HW Version: 3.0.0 (5102)
SW Version: 2.0.13 (GWg)
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm hoping it is as easy as emailing
linksys/cisco for the recovery tool, but I can't seem to find an email address
and the online help system did not work for me.
Thanks for your help and thoughts.

try this links SPA3000 recovery

Repairing laptops that won't boot and show the blinking caps

Here's a little tutorial for all of you who have this annoying issue. It mostly applies to the 1 blink code (other codes have much simpler and straightforward solutions).
Ok, so the code says that it's caused because of a not functional CPU. That is most likely not the case. Most people who had the 1 blink code actually had a problem with the integrated video graphics card or northbridge of their laptops, not the CPU (in fact, CPU failures are quite uncommon). The problem is that these chips overheat quite often, they don't have good cooling and dissipation systems (most of the time, it is shared with the CPU which is absolutely insane), and the solder connections are of very bad quality. So with overheating, solder points start fracturing or cracking and they stop making contact, which causes all these issues, including the infamous RRoD and YLoD issues in the Xbox and Playstation consoles with their soldered video chips.
So there are two main ways of dealing with this:
1 - Reflow
This is a short-term but easy solution that simply consists of reheating the damaged component to the point of getting rid of said fractures. It has a high success rate, as many people will tell you. It worked for me always, but again, after some time the issue may come back. Still, this is a very simple solution that doesn't require too much skill or equipment and is satisfying enough for most users. This is what I'm going to show how to do in this tutorial.
2 - Reball
Reflowing doesn't always work, and when it does, it doesn't last long. Instead, reballing is a permanent solution which consists of removing the chip in its entirety and replacing all the solder contacts. Reballing requires specific equipment (a reball station), reballing stencils and leaded solder balls. It is a long procedure, which requires some skill and it only should be performed by experienced people. When a reflow won't work, you are better off sending your laptop to a reballing technician, or buying a new one (which would be a waste, in my opinion).
Ok, so how can we do a reflow? There are many ways to do this:
1) Reheating your laptop: This is a simple as it sounds. Some people call it the "blanket" method, because you can just simply turn on your laptop, wrap it with a blanket or sweater and let it run until it shuts down because of overheating. I absolutely don't recommend doing this, as there are probably many working components (particularly the hard drive holding your data) that won't benefit from the overheating. I recommend disassembling the laptop and taking out all the good parts, like the hard drive, RAM sticks and any extra PCI-e cards installed. After that you can just simply unplug the cooling fan connector from the board then turn the laptop on. This will cause it to overheat faster, so you won't have to waste hours waiting for it to get hot (using the blanket method, it can take a lot of time). Most laptops will shutdown themselves after reaching a certain threshold temperature, if yours doesn't, well, just keep an eye on it so you can turn it off before it catches fire. After it turns off, let it rest and cool for at least an hour, then connect the cooling fan again, turn the laptop on and see if it boots. If it doesn't, well, you can keep trying this until it does (not recommended after 3 tries or so), or try the next methods.
2) The oven method: This a bit tricky, but it may be more successful in some cases. First, strip down your computer until you get to the bare board holding the video chip. Remove the CPU, heatsink & fan, RAM, BIOS battery, wires, speakers, stickers, plastic sticky guards, foam spacers, absolutely everything that can be removed from the motherboard. Then preheat your household oven to approximately 200°C or 385°F. If your oven does not have a digital temperature display, perhaps use an internal oven thermometer to make sure the oven is in the right temperature range. Roll up some kitchen foil into balls, between half an inch and an inch wide, and place them on a baking tray. Place your motherboard, with CPU socket and GPU facing upwards, on top of the foil balls. It is a good idea to wrap additional foil around the more sensitive parts of the motherboard, like areas where there are capacitors and the CPU socket.
Try to wrap the rest of the motherboard in foil to protect it, leaving just the GPU exposed on both the top and bottom of the motherboard. Then place the baking tray with the laptop motherboard on it into the preheated oven.
Make sure your kitchen is well ventilated at this stage, turn on the extractor fan to full power and/or open an outside door and windows. This will help to take away any fumes. Ideally, you should leave the kitchen while any fumes are still present. A couple of times during the procedure, have a quick look through the oven door (without opening it) making sure there are no smoke or flames visible. This is unlikely to occur, but can happen if stickers were left on the motherboard. After 8 minutes, turn the oven off and open the oven door. Do not remove the motherboard from the oven at this stage, it could be very hot and it is a better idea to allow it to cool down gradually. Take care not to inhale any fumes that might be present. After 20 minutes to half an hour, remove the cool motherboard from the oven and begin rebuilding your laptop. If all has gone well, it will boot up and the problem will be fixed. If the problem remains, you could try the procedure again, leaving it in the oven for a couple of minutes longer.
After performing a reflow in an oven, I recommend cleaning the oven thoroughly, then turn it on and allow any fumes that may have built up to be completely removed. This is especially important before cooking food in the oven again.
3) The heat gun method: Probably the best way to do a reflow, it is less destructive than the previous method (as you can focus on a single place, rather than overheating the entire board), but it may be worse than the first. The first step is to test out how well your heat gun will melt the solder. Place a chunk of solder on a coin, hold the heat gun one inch above it and record how long it takes the solder to flow. Once you have the timing right, mask off the motherboard (already removed from the case) so that just the chip in question is accessible. Reflow with the same spacing and timing as you did during the coin test.
Did it work?
If your laptop works now, then you can do a couple of extra things to avoid this problem in the future:
Avoid overheating by underclocking the CPU: You can run your laptop's CPU at a lower clock speed (it will run slower, BUT not as much as you think. Undercloking by a 50% doesn't mean your laptop will perform 50% slower). It not only protects your laptop from damaging over time, it has the added benefits of making it run *much* cooler and quieter and also having longer battery life, which is awesome as well. To do this, simply (in Windows 7 and up) click the battery icon in your notification area, select More power options, then change the selected plan (like Balanced) settings (click on Change plan settings), select Change advanced power settings, scroll down and, under Processor power management, Maximum processor state, type on both 'On Battery' and 'Plugged in' a value less than 50%. Change Minimum processor state to 1% and then System cooling policy to Active.
Avoid playing heavy games and running intensive applications: Such programs very often cause the underpowered integrated graphics card and CPU to overheat, which causes all these issues. Use a desktop machine with dedicated graphics for such programs if you want your laptop to last.
Again, always take out the hard drive before any of these procedures if you don't wanna lose any data, and if you can, any other components that can get damaged in the way. Note that a reflow, particularly the oven or heat gun methods are usually last-ditch resorts because they can permanently damage your computer, in particular if performed incorrectly. DO IT AT YOUR OWN RISK. I can't be held responsible for any accidents or unwanted results that may occur after following this tutorial. If you have doubts, then you're generally better off sending your laptop to professional technicians than trying to repair these kind of issues by yourself. Unless a repair costs more than replacing your laptop, that is.
And before starting any of these procedures, try to research your issue on the Internet as much as you can. Search for your particular model, search in this exact same forum and any other as you'll be able to read about people experiencing this problem. You can search reflow on your favorite search engine and you'll find detailed tutorials and many videos which will show the procedure and help you do a better repair. Once you're very comfortable and knowledgeable with the subject, you can go ahead with the repair.

This is actually good stuff and well written but I hesitate to advise people to use either the "oven trick" or really even the heat gun method as both are notriously short-lived even if they appear effective. Your far better bet is to send the board in to one of the vendors on the internet who are set up to do a proper reball. Even those fixes are good for maybe 12-18 mos. But again, you get a high grade for spelling it out.

PORTEGE T3600CT: Blinking power LED

Hi everyone (forgive me by my english).
I have a trouble whit my PORTEGE T3600CT (yes, a little bit oldie... but I love her) when its connected to the AC power supply.
It looks like an overheat of the microprocessor or something else: after a few minutes (5, 15, 30... its never the same) the computer shoots down, the power led turns orange and blinks 4 times in aprox. 5 seconds and then remains off for 3 seconds. That is the cycle: 4 blinks, 3 seconds off, 4 blinks...
I dont know what it means, cause I dont have the manual. If someone knows, please help me.
Thank you all.
Maximiliano

Hi Maxi
The service partner you can find on http://eu.computers.toshiba-europe.com under Support & Downloads.
About blinking code I can only tell you that as far as I know this kind of information is not published and you will not find any official site about it. Only thing you can do is to search some information on the net.
Bye

HP Pavilion DV7-1428ca _ CAPS + NUM LOCK Continually Blinks + Will not Start up Black Screen

Would appreciate any suggestions on the issue I am encountering.
I have an HP Pavilion DV7-1428ca that was left powered on, so it went into Safe mode (screen goes blank). Once I came back to my Laptop hitting any key would take out of of the Safe mode however this time it did not. It remained with black screen irregardless of buttons pressed.
Had booted and can hear the fan and hdd go for the 2secs then it stops to a Black Screen with the "CAPS + NUM LOCK" Continually Blinking. Tried to Hard Boot several times but the same thing re-occurs.
It does not seem to be blinking in a series a code, just a steady blink (every sec) for both the CAPS + NUM Lock for as long as I leave it on. HP Site provides a chart from 1-6 series of blink codes which does not seem to apply to me.
Being out of Warranty I am hesitant in bringing it to a local repair shop without trying any alternate trouble shooting first.
Thanks

Hi,
First of all, shutdown the notebook, unplug the AC Adapter unplugged, remove the battery, and then hold down the Power button for a full minute. Plug in the AC Adapter ( leave the battery out ) and see if the notebook will start.
Regards,
DP-K
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Blink codes

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