Built in flash for EOS Rebel T4i

Hello,
I have a EOS Rebel T4i and I keep getting an error message with the built-in flash: "Err 05 Built in flash could not be raised".
I turn the camera on and off but the built in flash still does not raise.
Is there somewhere I can look to fix this problem?

Usually this is an easy fix....
Canon cameras have a micro-switch located under one of the leaf springs in the camera's hot shoe. This "tells" the camera when a flash is mounted and the built-in flash shouldn't be popped up. It's not uncommon for this micro-switch to stick or for the leaf spring to not fully return and keep the switch from popping back up all the way.
This website http://www.conraderb.com/flashrepair/ shows several problems that can occur and how to fix them, including the small button of the micro-switch I mentioned above. It uses a different camera model, but all Canon DSLRs are similar. Scroll down to see more about the switch. Unless your hot shoe is loose, too, or the pin that actuates the micro-switch is missing completely, you should not need to disassemble anything. But the illustrations showing the disassembly can give you a good idea of what you are dealing with (note: the website shows using a piece of metal from a paperclip as replacement for the the pin in the micro-switch... I've also seen a thick plastic bristle from a hair brush used,
If it's the micro-switch causing the problem, usually a wooden toothpick or a small, precision screwdriver can be used to gently lift the leaf spring, and, if needed, lightly tap on the micro-switch to encourage it to pop all the back way up.
If this doesn't work, it's possible the latching mechanism got bent somehow. This is a lot less common and isn't discussed at that website, but I've seen it elsewhere on the Internet. Just do a search if you think that's the problem with your camera.
Now, to be honest, I just don't find much use for my cameras' built-in flashes. The best solution for this problem, IMO, is simply to get an auxiliary flash.Those work much better for many reasons: Auxiliary flashes are much more powerful, don't drain the camera's battery reducing the number of shots I can take with it, recycle much faster especially since I often use external battery packs with them, and are less prone to redeye and ugly shadows because the flash head is farther from the lens axis (and can be moved even farther away with a flash bracket and off-camera shoe cord). One of my four year old 7Ds has had the "stuck flash" syndrome since new, and I've never bothered fixing it, though I've taken about 100,000 images with that camera. That should give you an idea how little I use the built-in flash!
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM

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What is the status on the availability of this product? SKU (SKU: 4839135) is on the website but it states for store pick up only. When you select a store, any store for that matter, it shows as unavailable. it does not state the item is on back order.
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I've been asking so many questions on here, haha.
But I'm here with another question. So I've somewhat been researching on the net about using L lens with a t3i and quite a handful of people are saying that they wouldn't work well together? So L lens aren't recommended for EOS Rebel bodies? Can someone explain this to me please.
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Often for landscape photography people want to use a wide angle lens. Not always, there aren't any rules that say you can't use something else. I'm just sayin' it's typically the first thing that comes to mind
One of the best wide angles you can get for use on a T3i is the Canon EF-S 10-22mm USM. It is not an "L" but that doesn't matter.
I suspect what you have been told about using an L-series lens is due to your camera's crop factor, as several other responses have suggested. L-series will work just fine on your camera, but all L-series lenses are "full frame" designs, by definition. As a result, none of the L's will be particularly wide angle on your camera. So when people hear "landscape", they suggest something other than an L-series.
You have four different stated purposes: landscape, sports, low light and portraiture. The whole point of a DSLR such as your T3i is to be able to interchange lenses, to be able to adapt the camera for use in different situations. So I would suggest not to try to do it all with one lens, but to look at several lenses (some of which are Ls), which ultimately should give you better results. For example....
Wide angle landscape: EF-S 10-22mm.
Sports: 70-200/4, 70-200/4L IS, 70-200/2.8, 70-200/2.8L IS II, 100-400L IS, 300/4L IS.
Low light: 24/2.8 IS, 28/1.8, 35/2 IS, 50/1.4, 50/1.8 II, 85/1.8.
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Portraiture (studio): EF-S 15-85 IS, EF 28-135 IS, 24-105L, 24-70/4 IS , 24-70/2.8L II.
Portraiture (environmental): 20/2.8, 24/2.8 IS, 28/1.8, 35/2 IS.
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A "minimal" kit I often carry around with a crop camera is: 10-22mm, 28-135 IS, 300/4 IS w/1.4X teleconverter, and a Tamron 60/2.0 macro/portrait.
When I'm shooting sports, which I mostly do with crop sensor cameras, I usually carry: 10-22mm and 24-70/2.8, but my most used lenses are 70-200/2.8 IS and 300/4 IS. (In certain situations I also use 70-200/4 IS and 300/2.8 IS.)
For portraiture with a crop sensor camera, my favorite lenses are: 28/1.8, 50/1.4, 85/1.8 and 135/2. Especially the 50mm and 85mm.
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"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
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Need the right flash unit for Canon Rebel EOS T3i to use as separate fill light.

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The three noises you hear are the camera pulling back the latch to allow the flash to pop-up. The catch is spring-loaded and motorized. The flash is also spring-loaded so that once the catch is retracted (looks like a small hook) the flash should just spring-up into firing position.
When the flash is pushed down to close, there's a tiny button which it presses (a micro-switch) which tells the camera that the flash is down. When the camera attempts to release the catch, it expects the micro-switch (button) to pop-up thus indicating that the flash popped up. If it does not, it tries again. After three tries, it will give up and display Err 05.
The fact that you hear the noise tells us that the motor is working.
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There could be dirt jamming the mechasm. If anyone has spilled anything on it (e.g. a sugary drink) then it could sticky.
You can *try* this: Press the button to raise the flash while applying a _very_ gentle prying pressure (do NOT use strong force -- don't want to break anything. Just give it a tiny assist so that if it is merely sticky it might just need a little help.
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The version of EOS Utility on the CD that came with your Canon EOS Rebel SL1 will allow you to download photos from both the Rebel SL1 and the EOS 40D, on both Windows 7 and Windows XP.
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Can I wirelessly use a 430 EX II as a slave with the built in flash of the EOS T3i?

I have a Rebel EOS T3i. According to its manual, pp 191 ff, I can fire a remote speedlite wirelessly from the camera. I get an error message that the speedlite can't be found even though I have set up my speedlite 430 EX II according to its manual directions, pp25 ff. Thanks for your help
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Yes - the 430EX II will function as a slave and the T3i (but not the T2i or earlier) can remotely trigger the speedlite.
It's a bit tricky and can be confusing.
First... set the 430EX II in the right mode. Press-and-HOLD the "Zoom" button for about 2 seconds or so. This activates a menu that lets you put the flash in either a single-fash mode vs. remote "slave" mode. Use half-circle buttons to toggle it to read "slave". Press the "set" button (in the middle of those half-circle shape buttons.) I don't happen to have my 430EX II handy, but it should default to Slave "A" and Channel "1".
Now for the camera.
On your camera menu, the left-most tab (which we'll call "Red Camera #1" to distinguish it from other tabs) has the "Flash Control" as the last option on that screen. Incidentally for cameras with a built-in popup flash, the menu is labeled "Flash Control". For cameras that do NOT have built-in pop-up flash, that same menu is called "External speedlite control".
On that sub-menu (Flash Control), make sure "Flash Firing" (the top option) is set to "Enable" or "CustWireless" -- it must NOT be set to "disable" or nothing will work.
You will see a menu options for "External Flash func. setting" (and also "External flash C.Fn setting".) IGNORE THESE! These are ONLY for flashes which are in the camera hot-shoe and do NOT control wireless remote flashes. This is likely where you were getting confused.
Next go to "Built-in flash func. settings" where, ironically, you get to control how your camera communicates with your REMOTE flash (yes, I realize that's not the most intuitive place to put it.) It turns out that it's your INTERNAL flash that is responsible for communicate with any REMOTE slave flashes. The optical wireless actually uses visible light (a lot of people presume it's an infrared communication -- myself included -- I ultimately learned that was incorrect and it is actually the visible light of the flash itself. It sends out communication to the remote by rapidly pulsing codes to tell the remote flash what to do. All this happens before the image is exposed and you'd swear the flash only blinked once... but it turns out it's actually quite busy pulsing away to communicate.)
In the "Built-in flash func. settings" menu there are a number of things you need to set.
If you set the Built-in flash mode to "EasyWireless" it will gray out many other settings... basically the camera will automatically decide what it wants to do. I think the only setting not gray is the channel number (which needs to match the channel number on your flash. The purpose of channel numbers is to allow you to shoot at events where other photographers are also using wireless flash and not have conflicts where they're triggering your flashes and vice versa.
If you set the Built-in flash mode to "CustWireless" it allows you to set many other options. CustWireless offers the most control. It is ultimately probably the mode you'll use the most once you get used to remote speedlites.
In CustWireless mode, the "Wireless Func." menu option becomes available. This option lets you decide if you want (I'm taking these out of order for simplicity of explaining):
a) both internal and external speedlites to fire as one group (external flash icon, a PLUS sign (+) and the on-camera icon)
b) both internal and external speedlites to fire but allowing you to control the power RATIO (external flash icon, a COLON symbol ( and the on-camera icon means "ratios" can be customized.)
c) only external speedlites (only the external flash icon is on that option - no on-camera icon.)
I want to mention something about that external-only option because it confuses most people at first. The camera communicates with the slave via the on-camera flash. The on-camera flash pulses rapidly to send instructions to the remote flash units. This means that in order to use slave-flashes, the on-camera flash must be raised (in the popped-up position). If you ask for external flash only (no on-camera) the on-camera flash will only pulse instructions BEFORE the camera shutter opens to take the exposure. When I first started learning about external speedlites, I saw the on-camera flash fire and thought my settings were being ignored. Not to worry... when you check your images you will see that there was no light provided by the on-camera flash DURING the exposure... all that flashing happens before the shutter opens. Everything happens so fast that you'd swear all the flashes only fired once... but in reality they actually do a lot of "talking" before taking the picture but this happens incredibly fast.
And one last comment... since the camera communicates via the optical (visible light) flash to talk to the remotes, it is important the the lower-body of your 430EX II can "see" the flash on the camera. In small rooms it doesn't really matter where the lower-body is pointed... it'll notice the pulses of light from the on-camera flash. But in large rooms or outdoors the lower-body of your 430EX II (where the receiver is located) wont get any reflection from walls, etc. In these situations, just rotate the lower body of the 430EX II so that it is facing the on-camera flash. You can then swivel the head of the 430EX II to point wherever you need it. The 430EX II will fire even in full daylight as long as it can "see" that on-camera flash.
Here's a video that may help you: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQIyPWGPp5A
Tim Campbell
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Hold on don't send it anywhere until you:
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Dropped my canon rebel t4i,broke off canon symbol under flash is there anyway to fix this???

dropped my canon rebel t4i camera,broke off canon symbol just under flash hard plastic piece.Is there anyway to fix this???

Depending on the extent of the damage (and if you're sure that's all it is) then Canon service likely can pop on a new part.
BUT... parts don't necessarily break down to the component level you and I might imagine. I've heard of people needing a new "dial" on the camera and what they have to get is a whole new top-assembly (not just the one little bit that they need.)
The only way to know is for you to contact Canon service. I'm not sure if you can get a price quote over the phone. You may have to send it in. The only way to know is to call.
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Trigger voltage for 7D and Rebel T4i

I'm curious if anyone knows what the 7D and Rebel T4i trigger voltage maximum are. I have a older Sunpack 422D with a dedicated Canon module, from a Canon A1, on it and was wondering if it can be used on either of these cameras. I would be using this in manual mode only.
Thanks

I believe both 7D and T4i will tolerate up to 250V trigger voltage.
Some older Canon models were as low as 6V.
At some point it was changed. I'm just not sure with what models that occured, but am certain the 7D and T4i have the higher rating.
You don't have a problem, either way. It sounds as if the flash you've got is a fairly modern one. Some older Vivtars,Sunpaks, etc. had really high trigger voltages... some were upwards of 400V, but even most older flashes come in below the 250V that's now become somewhat of a standard for DSLRs. (Although I believe I've read that 24V or 36V, or something in that range, was now a rather universal minimum for all cameras that can use external flash.)
If in doubt, there are always devices to protect from excessive voltage, such as Wein Safe Sync.... Of wireless triggers.
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM

Built in flash for EOS Rebel T4i

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