CA-42 lead Faulty

Hi,
Has anyone ever had a CA-42 go faulty? I am the webmaster and treasurer for an animal rescue charity, we usePC Suite to download photos of rescued animals from the mobile phones, the system has stopped working. We have tried the lead with 4 different phones and 3 different compoters with no luck. The charity cannot afford to buy another lead from Nokia shop at £27.00 (the original lead was donated with a phone, any idea where a cheaper lead could be obtained.
Thanks in anticipation

You did not mention how old the cable is. It may still be under warranty.
Otherwise, cheaper alternatives are available from all the usual internet sources.

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Charger lead faulty

My wife got her new 5s today and all is good (with the phone) , but when I plugged the lead in ready to charge it by the time I went to plug in the phone the lead had become really hot and completely melted, we were just on our way out to the cinema luckily I noticed it before we went otherwise we might not have had a house left. Apple will be getting a visit from us.

Given all the stuff they cram onto the tiny MagSafe connector, I've always taken a dim view of the thing as an important failure point. After all, they stuff the bicolor LED, the cables, the springy contact points, etc., into that minuscule thing just for aesthetic sake, then subject the same to the strong magnetic field that holds it in place.
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Hi,
they are not very expensive, this site -> http://www.pcupgrade.co.uk/productdetails.asp?ProductID=3146&categoryid=368 wants only 40 pounds for such an AC, so if you use "google.com" and type "Equium A60 Ac adapter", you will get many results about AC adapters for Equium A60.. :)
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MacBook Pro Charger Lead Faulty??

Hi all.
About two days ago, I was working on my University Coursework. My MacBook was on 9% an I was just about to charge it, when it wouldn't charge for me.
It had turned green to tell me the battery was fully charged when I knew it wasn't. It had then turned a really low green charge, this had never happened before so I was confused, it had then turned orange an the same cycle began with that colour, it had then the whole light had turned off completely.
I had took my charger apart twice an had plugged it back in twice into my socket in my room with no avail.
About 15 minutes after this, it had started magically working again! I don't know if this is a dodgy charger or not as my MacBook Pro is only roughly about less than a year old.
I have an appointment in the Genius Bar in my local Apple Store to get it checked out.
Would this then be a dodgy charging cable?? If so, would someone be able to give me the solution on how to fix it??
I need to find out an answer as soon as possible as I've university assignments to get on with an I can't use my MacBook Pro as a result of the dodgy charger.
My MacBook Pro Specs are as follows:
13-inch
Late 2011
Processor - 2.4 GHz Intel Core i5
Memory - 4 GB 1333 MHz DDR3
Graphics - Intel HD Graphics 3000 384 MB
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Thank you so much for even taking the time to read my issue.

Given all the stuff they cram onto the tiny MagSafe connector, I've always taken a dim view of the thing as an important failure point. After all, they stuff the bicolor LED, the cables, the springy contact points, etc., into that minuscule thing just for aesthetic sake, then subject the same to the strong magnetic field that holds it in place.
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Could 'misuse' lead to faulty battery?

My daughter's ipod mini was sent for repair (less than 1 year old) because the battery is completely dead - even after hours of charging there is no more than two minutes play from it. She'd been using it by running it from the charger for a couple of months now, so I persuaded her to send it off for repair before the 1 year warranty expired.
It's just been returned, unrepaired, because Apple have determined that '... the damage ... resulted from accident, misuse or misapplication'.
The case is a battered on one corner, but could this cause the battery to die completely like it has?
As an aside, it's not downloading from itunes any more either, but I'm trying to deal with one problem at a time! The battery has been playing up for a few months, but the itunes problem only started recently, so I don't think they're connected.

Has your daughter dropped her iPod by accident?
Has she banged it anywhere?
Apple's warranty does not cover accidental damages, I'm sure since they found a battered case they probably said "We are not fixing it because the customer most likely dropped it". I don't see how this battered business has to do with the battery, the battery shouldn't be dead like it is.
Did she try resetting her iPod while it was plugged into her computer? Did she try to restore it?
Honestly, I don't think sending it back to Apple is going to do anything. They'll probably just send it back again the same way you send it to them. You could call them and explain to them what happened and what you want them to do, but since there's "evidence" that the ipod was "misused" even though it really wasn't Apple might not budge.
If you want Apple to change the battery they'll most likely charge you, it's expensive last time I heard. If I were you I'd find a local place where the iPod could be repaired. Looks like Apple turned their backs on you...

HELP - CK-200 NO SOUND OUTPUT - FAULTY???

Hi... please can someone help, I'm at the end of my tether.
Last week I bought a CK-200 (ISO) and fitted it straight in my KIA Ceed.
All worked well for about two days, then I noticed when I started the car there was no start-up sound and no sound when the phone rang etc
I reported this to the dealer who supplied it and they sent me a new ISO Cable/Loom + a new black box/controller thingee.
I fitted these on Friday and everything was GREAT
Saturday I used the car and everything was fine.
Then next time I got into the car... NO SOUND...
Could it possibly be that there's a faulty batch out there? ISO connectivity is a universal standard isn't it... and there's certainly nothing wrong with my car radio/cd...
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Hi
From what you have said, it sounds like it COULD be one of two things.
A damaged cable, or a bad / weak earth which is not enabling the mute function.
One way to test this would be to connect a standard headphone to the 3.5mm socket on the control box. If you hear the call audio, it's a mute problem.
To get around this, snip the black wire that leads to the 4 way multiplug and earth it separately to a good chassis ground in the car.
If you are not comfortable doing this, I strongly recommend calling a professional installer, after all this kit is designed to be professionally installed.
Are you in the UK? If so, you can find a list of Nokia Accredited installers here:
www.nokia.co.uk/carkitinstallers

How How can i install Mountain Lion with faulty firewire ports??

Basically the firewire ports are fried on my MBP 3.1 (2007). My mac used to take hang on blue screen and take 10 mins to boot but I solved this problem by installing an ssd and deleting the following kext file...
/System/Library/Extensions/IOFireWireFamily.kext
My MBP now boots in under 20 seconds so if anybody is having the same issue then there is the resolotion..
Anyway these are the steps I have taken but failed to properly install ML.
Dowloaded Mountain Lion at least 3 times from the App store to make sure the download wasn't corrupted.
I even tried making a Lion Bootdisk so I can install Mountain Lion on a USB drive (Install ESD.dmg).
I have even tried installing Lion first thinking I would take it one version at a time but gets stuck on boot screen too.
I even changed my hard drive to a new blank SSD drive to see any difference.
Each time I install Mountain Lion or Lion, everything is good until the installer has to restart the laptop.
Laptop gets stuck at the grey boot screen with the Apple logo and the loading circle. Nothing ever happens after.
I always had to use/boot to the Snow Leopard CD so I can restart the laptop back to the Snow Leopard OS and then update to 10.6.8.
I am guessing it is the ML dmg reinstalling the above file ( /System/Library/Extensions/IOFireWireFamily.kext ) which is leading to the same issue because of the faulty firewire ports.
Is there anyway I can resolve this because its doing my head in and Snow Leopard is old and doesnt support newer software that I would like to use.
Any help would be kindly appreciated. Thanks

Kurt Lang wrote:
Just some thoughts.
I presume you already partitioned the new SSD drive as GUID?
Is there anything on the new drive at all yet, or anything that isn't already backed up? If not, you could try erasing the drive and then installing OS X from the bootable flash drive installer you made.
Ive tried that and yes it is GUID. Im going to get grey hairs soon and Im not even 30 lol .... yet
I am not going to buy a new logic board as its just not logical (sorry for the pun) I got the mac for free and I want to spend as little money as possible. Im running out of ideas though

Help with rescuing data from faulty disk

Sorry the long wall of text, I wanted to explained everything as detailed as possible to not mess with the chronological order (TL; DR down below!)
Ok, here's the thing. I have two hard drives, a ssd [sda] (for the OS [arch linux, ubuntu and win7], munchkin 240gb) and a sata 3 one ([sdc] wd, 1 tb) that I use for everything else. A couple of weeks ago I found there were progressive, unexpected and random behaviour particularly with windows, random freezes, no bsod, ecc... I finally found that the second hard drive was the culprit so I decided stop using a buy a new disk (while sending the faulty to RMA, since it's barely one year old, and I don't do nothing out of ordinary), I got a seagate with 1 tb.
I honestly didn't want to mess too much about the data and wanted to save the most without wasting time, so I decided to try to clone the whole disk with dd according to the wiki (Disk Cloning). I imagined that the "bad sectors" were from the ntfs partition, so I went with that. Clearly I could get corrupt files in linux too, but my guess was that the most important data was safe, because I had been using it for the last couple of days without problems. The process ended with a lot of I/O errors, but in the end it showed the same number of `in` and `out`. I regenerated the UUID for the new cloned disk and each partition, modified the fstab and restarted (fingers crossed).
I could log into arch linux without problems, used it for a while, restarted a second time (that windows habit that I still found hard to overcome) and everything was okay (yes I made sure I was actually on the new disk). Next was windows time, which to my surprise worked fine too, I even played a while. After patting myself in the back, I rebooted the machine thinking in how much work I would like to have done today, and there were an error that apparead on the login screen, just a ms before I pressed enter, I think I read it was referring to another partition of sda. The system got stuck in the middle of the "log in screen" and loading x with a black screen, nothing else. Waited a while, losing hope I pushed the RESET button.
Now, it was stuck during the boot up process, after "killing rf radio" or something. It was obviously stuck somewhere else... (that message had appeared there since I built the pc) it read though that the /var partition was clean, same with the root partition, next I tried with "recovery" kernels, and each other kernel I had still in grub; but the problem persisted. Tried with ubuntu, had to change fstab again, rebooted, tried to enter, stuck on the loading screen with the big purple background. I couldn't get anything else past that, neither to get a decent log.
I don't know why (or maybe because I was desperate) I entered the uefi/bios settings and found that the time was localtime instead utc.... weird I thought and I blamed windows (though, I had the registry hack working for a while) and imagined that I updated something that removed that *fixed* the blessed fix. Since I remember having issues with partitions not being correctly mounted once because of time issues, I thought it was a problem with the time... nope, nothing changed.
I tried again with the recovery kernel of the ubuntu install, I could drop on the root shell, and tried to fix the clock time after remounting, same with mounting the /var partition (ubuntu doesn't use that one), it threw that "bad superblock error", but fsck ran saying the filesystem was clean and it was mount normally later. Somewhere between, I mounted the home partition, no errors, gave a quick navigation. I tried to install ntpd to follow the "troubleshoot" from the Time arch wiki page, but HA, no internet.
Rebooted again, and from the menu from "ubuntu recovery", allowed me to enable networking. Quite nice I thought, and pressed enter. It politely informed that I needed to mount the system (root partition) in read/write instead read-only. I happily said yes (I already had remounted the ubuntu root as rw, and worked ok), but stopped at the home partition taking about 10 minutes in "phase 2", suddenly started throwing a lot of errors, about missing inodes, files pointing nowhere, etc. It put a lot of files into lost+found directory. Oh, there it was... I thought, let's go into Arch Linux then...
Now the system booted up quite fast, and I was welcomed by the black screen asking coldly for my login information, I wrote the credentials, pressed enter, aaaaand PAH, "/home/pablo" change directory failed: No such file or directory. HA, funny I thought, lsblk, the partition was mounted, ls -l /home/... WHAT? the folder wasn't there.
I looked for the lost+found folder inside the home directory, and it had a lot of directories and files called DXXXXXX.RCN, and IXXXXXX.RCN and some symbolic links. The directories had files inside, the IXXXXX are actually files, ecc.
Right now, I'm lost... I'm not scared about the data, because it's still living happily (?) on the bad disk, but I still need to recover it, so I can filter it later allowing to write zeros to the fault disk and send it for a replacement. Is there any chance to recover the data? (I rather not going into around 100 files/directories with cryptics names), or maybe use another method to "recover" the data from the previous disk? using cp or rsync? Any good experience or advice on this?
PS.- Sorry for the epic story, I hope I don't scare readers or other fellow members.
TL; DR
+ I have 2 disks (ssd [OS {win7, arch and ubuntu}] and sata3 [data])
+ Sata3 disk started to fail on windows (users folder it's on the sata3), arch/ubuntu never had a problem
+ I bought a new one, and I'm trying to send the old one for a RMA
+ Clone the disk according to the wiki and rebuilt the UUID
+ Change fstab to use the new cloned disk
+ Worked fine for a couple of times
+ Used windows, played, everything fine
+ Entered arch, now I couldn't it got stuck without showing any errors
+ Tried every kernel and recovery image without success
+ With Ubuntu I could drop into a root shell
+ Mounted home partition, no problems
+ Tried to activate networking, started to run fsck and threw a lot of errors (I remember I read something about "offset" not correcting) and moved files to lost+found directory
+ Arch Linux started, but I couldn't log because /home/pablo doesn't exist anymore and it seems everything lives now in the lost+found directory with weird names like DXXXXXX and IXXXXXXX
Aftermath: I have the original data, safe (?) on the bad disk (like I said, I never had any problem in my home partition). I really don't want to be nit picky about what I can save, I'll be happy to save as much as I can, but I don't mind losing corrupt files (that's why I thought cloning with filling with zeros would be enough). I just want to ditch the bad disk and send it to wd for a replacement.
End of TL; DR
2014/07/29: Added a TL; DR section
Last edited by pablox (2014-07-29 13:55:46)

I can see three possibilities:
1. The new HDD is broken as well.
2. The Linux partition contained a little garbage from old HDD's errors and that confused Linux and caused it to corrupt the partition further by writing more garbage to it.
3. The garbage from old HDD's errors contained on the Windows partition confused Windows and caused it to corrupt the Linux partition by overwriting it with garbage.
1. Rather unlikely if the HDD is new, but still worth checking. Install smartmontools and run smartctl -a /dev/new-hdd. On the "SMART attributes" list, check if any of "Reallocated_Sector_Ct", "Reallocated_Event_Count", "Current_Pending_Sector", "Offline_Uncorrectable" have RAW_VALUE other than zero or if the "SMART Error Log" contains any entries. If the attributes are all zero and the error log is empty, everything is fine.
2. Make new image of the old HDD. Make sure that Windows and Linux partitions don't overlap each other due to HDD read error. Run fsck on the Linux partition before mounting it to ensure that it doesn't contain errors which could lead to further errors. If it doesn't, it should be safe to mount and use it.
3. You said that Windows partition certainly contains error. Don't run Windows and don't mount this partition in Linux without running some NTFS checker (Windows tools on some other Windows system or ntfsck on Linux) and fixing all errors contained there. Alternatively, you can reinstall Windows on the new HDD and manually copy all the files you care about that are still readable from the old HDD. BTW, don't modify anything on the old HDD, as this would likely corrupt its other contents in the same way that modifying its copy corrupted other parts of its copy.
Last edited by mich41 (2014-07-30 22:30:11)

Faulty Windows after 'successful' System Image restore to new hard drive.

This question posted as ' Cut down Win 7 after System Image restore to new HDD' in the community but no satisfactory answer. Please may I ask here.
Win reported a successful System Image creation of C: on my E: drive. C was replaced with a new 2TB drive (previously 1.5Tb) and the image restored. Win reported 'successful' restoration of C: immediately followed by the common 'You must restart
your computer to apply these changes...' which I assumed was just Win taking note of the new drive.
On running, everything seems fine at first but you start to notice faults. Most importantly Win doesn't seem to recognise itself. If you start some of the functions in control panel (eg System Manager) you get a message from User Account
Control 'Do you want to allow the following program from an unknown publisher to make changes to this computer?'.
Windows Live Mail won't work. You get a message 'Windows Live Mail could not be started. Closing Windows Live Mail. Your calendar contains corrupt data that is forcing Windows Live Mail to close (0x8E5E0247).' I have never used the
calendar function so there shouldn't be any data there.
Browsing history in IE is there on very first opening but is immediately lost and never recovered. Favourites are intact but all login details are lost. All your internet feeds are lost. Message 'The feed download was interrupted.....'
Trying to create new feeds is unsuccessful.    When you try and download something the usual IE message 'Do you want to run or save ... ' comes up at the bottom of the screen but the buttons do not work so you cannot get any downloads.
Installed non-Windows applications do seem to run OK though I usually switch back to the original drive pretty quick.
2 x Dell Precision T5500 desktops, both reasonably high spec and more or less identical though one is nearly 3 years old and the other approaching 4. Both Win7 x64. The fault identical on both machines. I have had these drives in and out
so many times trying to solve this there is a real risk of damaging the disk or lead. Can anyone suggest what might be wrong or how Win could be fixed?? I assume 2Tb is ok. Is it normal to get a restart message after a 'Successful' image
restore message. I've tried cloning the drive as well but got exactly the same messages and faults. Next I was going to try creating the image after running something like EndItAll and then seeing if the image would restore more successfully
to a different 1.5Tb drive though I don't see this should make any difference. 'Clutching at straws' comes to mind.
Thanks.

Hello, thanks for your interest.
Yes, principally it's the Windows features which are faulty. It's not that they don't work at all (except for win live mail which gives that message about being forced to shutdown), rather that there are faulty features.
All of the functions in control panel, for example, work OK. But when you select them there is this message from user account control ' Do you want to allow the following program from an unknown publisher to make changes to this computer'.   It
then goes on to give details the oddity being that the publisher is listed as 'Unknown'. This is the standard User Account Control dialogue but the strange thing is that it is not recognising the functions coming with windows.    If you
click yes it goes on to open device manager or whichever one it was that you wanted and the function works quite normally.
Non windows applications (including Microsoft Office) run normally without the user account control dialogue. The only oddity I noticed today was that one program seemed to have lost it's licencing information and gave a message that the
month trial period was up with an invitation to licence.
Today I tried to restore an image to a replacement 1.5TB disc. (i.e. the same size as the image was made from). The whole process went quite smoothly and Windows seemed to be working without the faults on the replacement drive.     So
having shown that the image must be OK I tried swapping the 1.5 drive for the 2Tb drive and repeating the restore from the same image.   Immediately on running, Windows gave me the message 'You must restart the computer to apply these changes....
(which it had not done for the 1.5Tb restoration) and all the old faults were back.   The message might be quite innocent and simply indicate that Windows is taking note or the different size drive but it seems to be associated with the arrival of
the faults. (The new drive is formatted as for the 1.5Tb with C: and Recovery partitions and the extra space left unallocated).
No, I have not tried Reinstalling Windows Live Mail yet. Today I was working on the newer machine and my mail is on the older one. It is odd that both machines show exactly the same problem. It must be something to do with the move to a different size disk.   I
guess I would have to reinstall IE as well as that was the other application that was really faulty.
Yes, that is the thread I tried in the community but I didn't get any solution.

Faulty Temperature Sensor?

Recently, I was given an old Mac g4 15" Powerbook that the owner no longer wanted. This is the first Mac I have owned as well as the first laptop. It worked fine for me for several weeks, and I got a new battery and upgraded the RAM. Then it started putting itself to sleep seemingly randomly, while I was in the middle of using it. It's fine for a little while upon turning on, and then may start to do this every minute. I changed the battery and memory back to the original pieces, the problem persists. The last time, it would not wake up at all. I finally took out the battery and power cord and held down the power button and restarted it.
Looking around online, I have found other people experienced this 'narcoleptic computer' issue with g4s, but no clear solution. The consensus seems to be a faulty trackpad temperature sensor sends the computer into sleep. I checked my system.log and found emergency overtemp warnings at the times it was sent to sleep. I downloaded Temperature Monitor and found that the trackpad temp would spike way up and down while the other temperatures remained consistent. Sometimes there is no temperature reported for the trackpad at all, at times it behaves normally until the computer is jostled, leading me to believe it might be an issue with something come loose.
Is this something that has been resolved? I saw a couple suggestions to open it up an remove the trackpad temperature sensor entirely, does anyone know if that fixes the problem in the long term? I have also tried resetting the pram and the pmu, setting the power saver preferences to never put it to sleep, trashing my power saver preference files, disabling bluetooth, and running the computer off the power cord only with no battery. Next I will try opening the whole thing up and tightening everything I can see to tighten.
I know it's getting up there in years, but the computer worked fine for what I wanted until this started. I would be very grateful for any advice on how to deal with this issue.

Hello Kate,
The track-pad heat sensor is +*one of the causes*+ of narcoleptic powerbooks, but from my experience it is more usually related to a faulty keyboard. Sticky or bent keys, dirt, soda, faulty light sensor are more likely the cause. It is highly unlikely anything has become lose inside the machine as all factory fitted screws are sealed with a lock-tight adhesive or equivalent. Try turning off the illuminated keyboard (F8) and see if it persists. Opening the machine is not a bad idea although, you will find very little in the way of visual determiners. Open it up and give it a good clean out. A small soft paint brush and a can of compressed air will do the job. Just be careful to blow the garbage out and not deeper into the machine.
A suggestion to pin-pointing the problem: Can you hook it up to an external display, keyboard and mouse? If so, start the computer, close the lid and wake it with the external mouse. See if the problem persists. If it does, at least you know the track pad sensor is fine and it must be related to the keyboard or a general overheating issue, which may be something as simple as a faulty stick of RAM.

Faulty audio line-in port?

Hi, I've just bought a 'Monster iStudioLink' lead to record a guitar onto my Mac using Garageband, but something isn't working!
I've gone into System Preferences to check if there is a sound input and the iMacs internal mic is working fine but theres no audio line-in signal.
Does anybody know if there is a way that I could check if the line-in is faulty or am I doing something wrong?
Thanks

First make sure you are plugged into the
imput jack not the headphone jack
(Ive done that many times)
If you are going direct from your guitar
you may need to go through a pre amp first.

Faulty batch of 20" iMacs?

Hi,
I am pretty new to Apple, i have recently started as a LAN admin at a company that does pre press work and has amongst other computers and servers about 12 iMacs, a mixture of 17, 20 and 24" iMac intel units.
I have 4 off the 20" units and I have 2 of them that have the same fault, they run for a period of time fine then the display just crashes the mouse still moves but the screen is unresponsive, you can ssh to them and the num lock turns on an off.
I have reset prams, rebuilt the operating systems, these two units have about a week of my life in them. i and my apple vendor have come to the conclusion the video lodgic controler is faulty.
If this was a basic clone intel pc with a $100 video card i wouldn't think twice and would just replce it but the cards for an apple are $1500! so that pretty much writes off a 20 month old imac.
*However I don't just have one like this i have two,* which leads me to deduce that in the next couple of months the other two will die. i will then have 4 dead iMacs!
I thought i would vent here and see if this is a known "bug" how many other people out there have 20" iMacs with dodgy video controllers that are getting this type of bill at 20 months of age
the serial numbers are W86310TNU2P and W86310U4U2P and they have the ATY, Radeon X1600 Display adaptor. anyone else found a fix or had the same fault ? other than the obvious buy a new card, or a new iMac..
I know that if I ever sign the capex for an iMac i will definitly be looking into extended warranties ! The mac purists in the office tell me the hardware is awesome .. well 20 months for a video controller worth $1500 is awful performance!

Hello. Sorry to hear that your having issues with two of your iMacs. I have the same model and no issues whatsoever. If troubleshooting on your own does not lead to resolve than I would try Applecare. It is well worth $169 (unless education disc. applies) to get it as you get 3 years of both hardware coverage (excluding accidental damage) and phone support. Does the apple hardware test bring up any errors? If you've reloaded the software by doing an erase and install, then tested without installing any software or hardware, just the basics, than it would indicate hardware. And than if it is not peripherals than it would be the imacs. Sorry if this is info that you already know or steps you performed... Also with applecare you get onsite repair if you do not wish to have it taken in for repair. And since its the early 08 you should be in the first year and qualify for the Applecare.
But the steps I would take is basically what you did or probably did.
Run the AHT (hardware test) press D on startup or hold option down on bootup with install disc 1 in and choose aht. (extended test)
Erase & Install
Don't install anything else.
Try to reproduce the issue.
If that doesnt narrow it down maybe go for the APP so that you do not have to pay for any repairs....
its kinda odd that you have two imacs with sn's that far apart in manufacturing that you have these issues. but again i apologize if this was not helpful. Good Luck.

HT5704 Hi, Two recent updates for my iPhone have caused crashes (down the white lead via iTunes).I have "fixed" but not sure of the cause?

Hi,
Two recent updates for my iPhone have caused crashes (down the white lead) via iTunes.
I have "fixed" but I don't know the cause?
Each time the update does n't complete.
The download does n't happen.
The computer & internet connection are good.
It is as if the Apple server does n't complete?
The phone stays in recovery mode, until you reset and rebuild in iTunes.
All software is up to date, but I can't find the cause
ANY IDEAS?
Regards,
P.
<Email Edited by Host>

No error messages.
It just fails to complete the download, so recovery mode is the next step.
This can be over a period of eight hours or more!
I have so many (original) Apple USB leads that I would n't know if I have been using the same one (if it was faulty).
Does this sound like a "common" problem?

My Iphone is kind of faulty

My iPhone is faulty at the moment and the charger does not work, I've booked an appointment with apple. I just wanted to know if they will change it for an iPhone 5s or 5c as they don't have any iPhone 5 in stock? Will they change it for a 5s or 5c
Thanks

Does your phone charge if you hold the lead when it is inserted into the phone? If it does, then you may hVe a bit of dirt or fluff inside the charging dock which can be cleaned out carefully with your SIM card removal tool.

Audio lead and iOS 4

Hi.
New to the forum, and am hoping that you can help with a real issue....
I updated to OS 4.0 a few weeks ago, and apart from the usual "glitches" that have been quite firmly stated on here; i have an issue that i cannot understand:-
This being that my audio lead no longer works with the phone!!
To explain - i have a 2 pin audio lead that i connect the Iphone to the audio input in the car. This allows me to a) listen to music/audiobooks through the car speakers, as well as (this is the important bit) b) when i answer the phone; i am able to hear the caller through the car speakers as well - a sort of hands free kit if you will.
Now since i updated to OS 4, i can no longer hear the caller through the speakers when the cable is connected. The lead must be faulty i hear you say - i thought so to, until it dawned on me that if the lead was faulty, i wouldnt be able to play music as well; but i can.
Any ideas?
Cheers all..
Message was edited by: Silmarillion

Two pin you say? Are you sure it's not 3-pin stereo?
My headphones still play the sound of the caller out of the top of the 3GS so the audio output hasn't changed.
Test with your headphones and if you can hear the caller, it can't be the phone that's faulty.
Also try a 4-pin cable (like the one on the supplied Apple earphones)

CA-42 lead Faulty

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