Connecing 40' Dynex Tv to Panasonic Bluray

I'm having issues connecting my Panasonic bluray player to my 40' Dynex TV.
There are three outlets for HDMI - HDMI1 HDMI2 HDMI3
I purchased a Dynex HDMI cord, and connected in the correct spot on the bluray player for HDMI.
My issue is that under my Dynex Tv options, I have the following:
TV
AV1
AV2
S-Video
Component 1
Component 2
For every one I choose, my screen still appears blue with "No Signal!" despite having my bluray player plugged in, and turned on.
I need to be able to see a setup menu so that I can actually set up the bluray player.
Otherwise, the Panasonic bluray player is worthless.
Please help.

None of those options that you show for the TV indicate your TV accepts HDMI input. The input would actually say HDMI. Either your not scrolling far enough to get to the HDMI input for your TV does not accept HDMI. Can you post up a model number of your specific TV and or a picture of the back of the TV.

Similar Messages

Need step by step to get port 48705 open for Panasonic Bluray

Classic handoff syndrome. Brand new Panasonic Bluray connected to internet out of the box with Airport Extreme, streamed fast. Imac running Snow Leopard.
Updated Panasonic firmware and no connections. Panasonic tech tried for a half hour and concluded that I needed my ISP to open port 80, 443 and 48075. I think that 80 and 443 are open by default. Resetting the settings and the player did nothing....gateway: fail. There is no way to undo the firmware update.
Call India and Verizon says that they cannot assist me with AEBSn just Verizon routers. All searches for this problem give directions with too many blanks that I don't have the info to fill in. Below is an example of an attempt in the community to help. I wouldn't know where to find the <missing info> . I couldn't find the port mapping tab in this version....help would be appreciated.
Tesserax
Re: how can you perform a Port Forwarding Procedure on Ports 48705, 443 and 80 so my Blu Ray player will be able get and IP address and connected to your gateway.
Oct 1, 2011 11:22 PM (in response to doc9850)
Again, you would only need to configure for port mapping if you intend on accessing the Blu-ray player from a remote location.
Port mapping takes two basic steps:
Either assign a static Private IP address or use the AirPort's ability to allow DHCP to assign a reserved IP address to the Blu-Ray player, and
Configure the AirPort, using the AirPort Utility, for the proper ports to map.
The following are the basics for setting up one of the newer 802.11n AirPorts for port mapping/forwarding: AEBSn - Port Mapping SetupTo setup port mapping on an 802.11n AirPort Extreme Base Station (AEBSn), either connect to the AEBSn's wireless network or temporarily connect directly, using an Ethernet cable, to one of the LAN port of the AEBSn, and then use the AirPort Utility, in Manual Setup, to make these settings: 1. Reserve a DHCP-provided IP address for the host device.AirPort Utility > Select the AEBSn > Manual Setup > Internet > DHCP tab
On the DHCP tab, click the "+" (Add) button to enter DHCP Reservations.
Description: <enter the desired description of the host device>
Reserve address by: MAC Address
Click Continue.
MAC Address: <enter the MAC hardware address of the Blu-ray player>
IPv4 Address: <enter the desired IP address>
Click Done.
2. Setup Port Mapping on the AEBSn.AirPort Utility > Select the AEBSn > Manual Setup >Advanced > Port Mapping tab
Click the "+" (Add) button
Service: <choose the appropriate service from the Service pop-up menu>
Public UDP Port(s): <enter the appropriate UDP port values>
Public TCP Port(s): <enter the appropriate TCP port values>
Private IP Address: <enter the IP address of the Blu-ray player>
Private UDP Port(s): <enter the same as Public UDP Ports or your choice>
Private TCP Port(s): <enter the same as Public TCP Ports or your choice>
Click "Continue"
AirPort Utility Port Forwarding for AE is not an intuitive app. It is version 5.6.1 which is up to date for SL.
http://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=48705+port&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8 shows that other people are needing to do this with various routers.
The player is Panasonic DMP-BDT500 Integrated Wi-Fi 3D Blu-ray DVD Player
FYI, the player plays disks beautifully.
Thanks for any help.
David

My problem seems to be that my AirPort Utility does not have Port Mapping under the Advanced Tab.
This tells us that you have another router "upstream" on your network, which you may call your modem, but it is in fact a modem/router or gateway type of device.
The AirPort Extreme is configured correctly in Bridge Mode to work with this type of device on your network.
You can verify this by clicking the Internet icon, then clicking the Internet Connection tab. You will see that the setting for Connection Sharing is set to ""Off (Bridge Mode)". That means that the AirPort is not providing the routing services for your network.
Your modem/router or gateway is the device that will need to be configured for port forwarding / mapping.....not the AirPort Extreme.
I am sure that Tesserax will have similar comments.

Panasonic Bluray

I am trying to connect my Panasonic Bluray to my FIOS M!424WR router with a WIRED ethernet connection. Spent an hour with Panasonic tech and manually configured the IP address, subnet, etc. Still would not connect. He says ports 80 and a couple of others are closed and I need to ask Verizon to open them. Any thoughts on this? Is he correct? I also changed security from WEP to WPA. this didn't help.

Security doesn not matter on a WIRED connection.
It should be able to connect automatically using DHCP. Hopefully you did not set an address in the Panny that conflicts with other devices on your network.

Extend Airport Extreme signal to BluRay player?

I have an Airport Extreme upstairs that serves the house. I want to extend the network so my Panasonic BluRay player can access the network. The player has an ethernet port and network setup in the main menu. Without running an ethernet cable throughout the house, is it possible to connect the player to a wireless router that picks ups an IP address from my Airport Extreme?
If so, how do I do it? What hardware do I need?

Check the AirPort Extreme first by temporarily connecting an ethernet cable from your computer to one of the LAN <-> ports on the AirPort Extreme.
Open AirPort Utility - click Manual Setup
Click the Wireless tab below the row of icons
The main settings to check are:
Wireless Mode = Create a wireless network
Check mark next to "Allow this network to be extended"
Jot down the exact setting that you have for Wireless Security
Update to save any changes you have made and disconnect the ethernet cable.
Then move the AirPort Express near your computer and connect the AirPort Express the same way to your computer with the ethernet cable.
Open AirPort Utility - click Manual Setup
Click the Base Station tab to name your device, establish a device password and adjust Time Zone settings
Click the Wireless tab
Wireless Mode = Extend a wireless network
Wireless Network Name = Same name as your AirPort Extreme network
Check mark next to Allow wireless clients
Wireless Security = Exact same setting as the AirPort Extreme
Wireless Password = Same password as your AirPort Extreme network
Confirm Password
Update to save settings. You can disconnect the ethernet cable and move the Express to the desired location and power it back up again.

How can I restore proper PDF exports from InDesign CS3 or CS5 in Snow Leopard?

I had no problems exporting PDFs from InDesign CS3 (on a Mac Pro running 10.6.4 Snow Leopard) until this past weekend, when all the fonts appeared bitmapped or thin and raggedy, and the images lost some color depth and contrast. When I copied the InDesign document to my MacBook Pro laptop, also running 10.6.4, the PDF emerged with its original quality. Calls to Adobe support referred me to documents concerning incompatibilities between InDesign and Snow Leopard. One of these documents was several pages long, but I could not print it from the Adobe website to my HP All-In-One Officejet, because one-third of the document was hidden under a white panel. This makes the document impractical for troubleshooting, because I don't have enough screen real estate (even on a 23-inch display) to keep the document open along with all the pages and dialogue boxes needed for reference. Back to phone and chat support, I was advised to upgrade my Creative Suite Premium CS3 to CS5 ($800!!!) and purchase the latest Acrobat Pro upgrade ($200), with no guarantee that this $1,000 cost would actually solve the problem. I did download the trial version of InDesign CS5, and it did NOT solve the problem. I'm also concerned that the problem did not exist until last weekend. Prior to that, my CS3 and Snow Leopard combination worked just fine. I then checked the forums and was dismayed at the variety of problems associated with PDF files, for which there seems to be no general fix. Meanwhile, I have hundreds of ads I'm supposed to be preparing and emailing as PDF proofs to businesses around the country. I have two books of 120 and 256 pages that need to be submitted to printers in PDF format with all kinds of fonts and image files belonging to my clients. The last time I submitted a book to a printer via email, the job went perfectly. This time, and next, it's obvious I won't be able to send PDFs at all! If that's the case, my 27-year-old directory business will be unable to absorb the expenses necessary to start all over with new computers and software, and I will be out of business. Period. So-- does anyone have a way to fix this? I would surely be grateful.
David Henderson

I'm on a local network, built on Apple's Airport Extreme. but I'm the only computer user on it. I use it for transferring files between the desktop computer (Apple Mac Pro) and laptop (Apple MacBook Pro) and, occasionally, to print from the laptop to a Xerox Phaser printer.
About a year ago, I added an Apple Airport Express to the network, allowing me to play iTunes music from the laptop through a Panasonic BluRay player connected to a home theatre sound system. No problems of this nature appeared with that installation.
About four months ago, we connected a DirecTV satellite receiver system to the D-Link router that carries wired network service from the desktop computer to the Xerox printer. The satellite TV system includes a series of modems that allows DVR recordings to be accessed and played from any of the TVs in the house. (As you would now perceive, I run my publishing business from my home). However, this set-up has been functioning for about four months, and I did not encounter the PDF problem until last weekend.
Now -- about the fonts.
Because of the many ads that I publish from various sponsors, it is possible that different versions of the same fonts have invaded my system. In the "missing font" alerts I get, InDesign frequently is seeking TT or T1 versions, which I replace with Adobe fonts when possible. Adobe Creative Suite Design Premium included a fairly large collection, which it keeps in one folder. The Apple OS also includes a bunch in a separate font management folder; and there are carry-over fonts that came with the business when I acquired it 10 years ago. Some of those fonts may go back 25 years to the book's inception. However, in the past several years, I have generally rebuilt all the ads that appear in my publications, substituting newer versions of fonts. Hence, the preflight program has been able to locate and include all the necessary fonts in the packages that go to the printers.
Once again, I have been able to export good PDF files for all the varieties of ads and books included in my system, until last weekend. One of the documents is built entirely with Helvetica Narrow, for which I have only one version.. Another document consists mainly of Times, and there are 3 or 4 versions of that font in the system; but the version contained in the document has not changed from when it exported properly.
So... I guess the complexities involved in the network and/or fonts could be part of the problem, as you suggest, but golly -- I hope not. The last thing I want to do is disrupt and rebuild the network or font collections. The font situation especially would set back production for months if not years, because so many individual ads and off-site clients would be involved in the process.
I'm sorry if I provided more details than you expected. I didn't mean to take so much of your time.
Thank you.

Any Help For Yet Another HDCP For Playback/Netflix Problem?

I have a very complex set-up and had no problem streaming until the other night and I have tried every single solution I can find online under the sun so that is why I am posting here.
I have a Pioneer Receiver that I used a Terk Smart HDMI 3 x 1 Selector with and was able to stream Netflix with no problem.
This is how everything used to be set up:
Pioneer Receiver
Blu-ray IN
HDMI OUT Terk
DVD IN
Panasonic DVD Recorder OUT
OUT
Panasonic LCD TV HDMI 1
Terk HDMI 3 x 1 Selector
OUT
Pioneer Receiver Bluray IN
Panasonic Bluray Player
Input 1
AppleTV (3rd Gen.)
Input 2
Mac Mini (2010)
Input 3
Now here's the rub: I also have a PS3. I used to unplug either the ATV or Mini whenever I wanted to use it and I got tired of switching out so I bought a Monoprice 8 x 1 HDMI Selector. The logic here being that I would have more than enough HDMI inputs to plug in everything.
When I first hooked up the Monoprice, I hooked the OUT from it into the Bluray IN on the Pioneer and then hooked all of the HDMI cables from all of the various electronics into the INputs on it. Tested all of them to see that it autoselected whatever I had chosen and even was able to stream on NF.
This is how I have everything hooked up now:
Monoprice 8 x 1
OUT
Pioneer Receiver Bluray IN
ATV
Input 1
Panasonic Bluray Player
Input 2
PS3
Input 3
Mac Mini
Input 4
Panasonic DVD Recorder*
Input 5
*Bluray IN and OUT are the only HDMI slots in use on the Pioneer Receiver using this hookup.
Now all of a sudden yesterday I went to stream NF via the ATV and I got that "This content requires HDCP for playback" error.
I did everything I could think of and also tried all of the suggestions I could find on the web. I had already switched out the HDMI cables as I had bought new ones when I got the Monoprice. So I hooked the Terk back up thinking it would "fix" things. No dice. I put the old HDMI cables back on. No dice. I have it hooked up now with the old HDMI cables and still no dice. I unplugged everything and let it sit thinking I could force a new HDMI handshake. NF started streaming for 5 seconds and froze -- and then the error message.
I also have a Scientific Atlanta DVR that the ATV is plugged into that the HDMI 2 of the Panasonic TV is connected via HDMI. The Panasonic TV isn't "old" as I think I got it in late 2009 or late 2010, as it has more than enough HDMI inputs, component, and also a PC connection -- in case someone wanted to suggest the TV wasn't capable of handling the hookups. The ATV is running the latest version of the software.
This is really frustrating since it worked with no problem from the day I got the ATV and now after upgrading the switcher to get more HDMI inputs, everything went kaput.
And I just don't know what to do.
I'm not sure if having everything being dependent upon the Panasonic TV being powered on is affecting things, but it never affected things when I was using the 3 x 1 HDMI switch. When I wanted to use the ATV, I'd press the Bluray input on the Pioneer receiver, hit the ATV remote and it would come on. Click into NF and voila: streaming with no problems.
Currently, I still do the same thing -- and I can listen to the radio, stream in iTunes Match on the ATV. It's just the NF issue that's really beyond me. The only thing I can think of to try is to maybe put the DVR in the surge protector slot so that it has to be powered on so that everything else will power up instead of the TV?
I'm hoping someone has a suggestion that involves something other than restarting/restoring the ATV, or unplugging things for 30 seconds because I have tried everything I've come across. I just don't know what to do but I really would like to be able to use NF on the ATV because I like the fact that it plays in Dolby, and I really don't want to have to go back to the PS3 to utilize that feature.
In the meantime, I guess I will switch the DVR on the surge protector with the TV and see what happens if I change the way things power up in the chain.

I am at a loss. I thought I had a micro USB cord but since I didn't, I wasn't able to downgrade the software.
I did a complete restore for kicks.
This is the current setup
ATV HDMI
Panasonic TV HMDI 2
ATV optical output
Pioneer Receiver
Again, all of the other devices run through the 8 x 1 switch box which is NOT powered on to use the ATV.
I get the HDCP error whenever I try to access the following:
Netflix
Trailers
Vimeo
WSJ Live
HHL and the other sports channels
These work fine:
Radio
iTunes Match
Podcasts
Flickr
TV Shows and Movies because I tested both watching previews and they streamed perfectly
I've changed the settings on the ATV until I'm blue in the face and this is what they are currently:
Dolby - Auto
Audio Output - Auto
HDMI Output - Auto
TV Resolution - 1080p HD - 60Hz -- and yes I've had it set on both "Auto" and 720p HD - 60Hz and neither stopped the error once it started happening
All of the equipment is HDCP compliant as I checked
The cable between the TV and ATV
The 8 x 1 switch box
Panasonic TV specs -- it is HDCP compliant as I said in my 3rd post (according to the manual)
The Pioneer Receiver (for good measure)
I have no idea of what to do other than to hope that Apple does something with the next update to restore everything, as this HDCP issue is really beyond annoying and it's clear 5.2 broke something. In the meantime, I really am open to suggestions to try something else other than smashing the ATV with a hammer

Capturing HDMI signal to MacBook Pro for editing in FCP

I have a ton of old home-recorded VHS tapes that I'm hoping to capture to FCP editable QT files. I'm considering purchasing a Panasonic BluRay/VHS combi deck, the DMP-BD70V, because it supposedly upscales old VHS tapes for display through the HDMI cable output. My question is, will I be able to feed the digital output of the HDMI cable directly into my MacBook Pro 15" (vintage September 2007) laptop, or will I still need some sort of card to make the HDMI signal palpable to my computer?

The short answer is - not unless you are willing to fork over $600+ for the necessary converter. Probably the least expensive such converter is the Canopus ADVC-HD50, which can convert the HDMI signal to HDV and feed it to your Mac via FireWire. Something to consider is that you will be going through multiple conversions this way - VHS -> upscaling to hidef via HDMI -> conversion to HDV -> possible conversion to AIC or ProRes. IMHO not a great workflow, as it's likely to degrade the quality to a noticeable degree, especially that upscaling step.
Something to consider - the quality is limited by the original VHS tape & recording. Even DV is significantly higher quality than VHS. You will be better off converting directly from the analog VHS to DV using a Canopus ADVC-110 or 300 or similar analog-DV converter.

Replacing BT HH4 with something a lot better? ...

Hi,
I wonder if anyone can help me here?
I currently have BT Infinity on a FTTC so therefore copper wire to the house.
There is a separate BT Openreach modem feeding a BT Home Hub 4.
Previously (pre Infinity) I had a Belkin N wireless modem router (F5D8636-4 v2), which obviously didn't have the speed available, but certainly offered a really good range with very little drop off in terms of performance.
I've suffered BT Home Hubs in the past and consequently have very little faith in them; so it was no surprise to me when the other evening I couldn't even stream BBC iPlayer to my Panasonic BluRay despite the HH4 being only 4.5M "line of sight" from the BluRay player! Having put up with a decrease in range this was the last straw. So I'm now looking to replace the BT HH4 with something that has a decent range.
The site is not large, basically a two bedroom bungalow which contains:
1x iMac, 1x iPad, 1x iPod 2x iPhone, 1x PC work laptop & 1x Android work mobile
I was considering an Apple Airport Extreme. You may've noticed an Apple bias? But I'm not too dogmatic about that & can be reasonably open-minded!
What I really want to know is which product is going to give me the best range / connection speeds?
Any sensible help gratefully received & yes I do understand that BT won't support anything else, but they also don't want to be responsible for the poor performance of their HH4.
Cheers!

I upgraded to a HH5, which was pretty mediocre - especially with gaming. There was also compatibility issues with some Apple products, especially with the linked 2.4 & 5 GHz SSID - which can be unlinked. I recently changed to a Netgear R7000, which meant connecting to the Openreach modem again, but no issues and no complaints from the gamers in the house, and excellent wireless coverage. My Mac is fairly recent and shows a 1Gigabit connection on 5GHz.
We also use a number of powerline adapters - usually with a local switch to accommodate Sky boxes, PCs and games consoles - and this has been pretty successful - although I'll run some Cat5 or 6 in when redecorating allows.

Add blurary job action to files already encoded

Hi,
If I have already encoded h264 and ac3 files using bluray presets from a prores master, but I did not use the "create blurary disc job action". Is it possible to add the job action to the 2 files I already created without having to re-encode again?
How do I link the 2 files together in the batch?
I am using Compressor 4.
Thanks

Hi alexgrainger (UK) & Russ H (Boston)
Permit me to join this thread even though it is six months old and has been previously “solved”. I can’t seem to find anything close to my problem in the Apple Forum, (Compressor Community or any other)
I’d like to ask you guys how you used the Compressor job pane to link an AC.3 file and an H.264 file in the Job pane, and eventually achieve BluRay burning.
It seems as though you guys were successful and I would appreciate even a little help.
First of all, I am using Final Cut Studio 2 (FCP 7.0.2, Compressor 3.5.4, Soundtrack 3.0.1) on an Intel iMac with OS 10.6.3, and want to burn the 1920x1080 video and six channel audio from an AVCHD camcorder to BluRay.
(Maybe what I want to do can’t be done with the software I have?)
I have set up the H.264 video file (no audio) using an export from QT Conversion. I have set up a separate AC3 audio file containing six channels corresponding to the same video using Apack.
I can burn a BluRay disc of the AC3 file with no video. On playback through my Panasonic BluRay player and Yamaha Amp, the amp display indicator shows the Dolby Digital six icons, and is further confirmed with audio from all six speakers.
And I can burn a separate BluRay of the H264 file if it contains 2Ch Stereo signals.
Now, How do I get BOTH of these files (AC3 & H264 no audio) into a Compressor job pane at the same time.
I can drag one or the other of these two files to the thumbnail (area containing a down arrow), but not both at the same time. A Note in the Help Users file: “If you drag multiple files to the thumbnail area, only the last file is added to this job and all other files are ignored.”
The Inspector windows for individual video and audio files seem to be set properly, but when I check the A/V Attributes, for Video or Audio, one or the other seems blank, which confirms in sort the above statement in the Help file.
So, if you will, could you take a moment and describe how you got to a BluRay burn with Compressor, when Compressor job pane contain separate H264 and AC3 files. Is there Compressor template for this combo? Is there a special process to get both of these together?
Obviously, I’m a newbie at Compressor. I would just like to burn to BluRay the beautiful video and surround channels coming out of my new AVCHD camcorder.
Thanks in advance,
BoBo (CT)

Export to HQ DVD very poor quality

Hi all,
I've been trying to export to an HQ DVD, meaning I've chosen the highest settings, ending up with a 5552Mb File for 75 mn... which I believe would be enough to have a very high "normal"definition .
ok I know it wouldn't fit but I burned 10mn of timeline with these settings, to check, and the quality is very poor. I believe as bad as a VHS second generation copy... My titles appear like a very low photoshop jpg compression, and all lignes and shapes are surrounded by some kind of compression artefacts not acceptable even in normal def. (not mentioning the interlaced lines at the edit point when the clip has been altered in size or color etc...) You get the picture...
I had a look at the calculator, that is not much help finally when exporting from premiere.
What I want to do is export my (xdcam hd 50mbps 1080 50i).mxf timeline to a beatiful dvd that everybody can play....
Should I go for a third party encoder?
Also, It seems that when I export and burn through Encore, I get a slightly vertically stretched frame, that ellipses the perfect circles I have on the timeline. Although I respect the pixel ratio of 1.0, 16.9 screen... wide screen etc... I always get this stretching. (Playing the file from the pc is correct.)
What puzzles me is to see some nice SD DVDs around, burnt from HD files and I'm not able to get at least the same results from a broadcast approved camcorder and premiere CS6.
Export settings are:
Help please... Thanks.

Glad to help.
I have been using Encore every since it was first released and on many occasions I have pruduced MPG files encoded at different rates so that I can demonstrate to the audience at my presentations how the different settings can affect the end MPG movie
With Encore I have found that the settings I gave you earlier give the best compromise results, in my tests having the max setting at its max position and the target above eight can produce flawed mpeg files. this is not as a resullt of one off encoding but I have repeated it with each version of Encore with varying results, certainly using Encore in my CS5.5 Suite produces softer DVD's than earlier versions, in my opinion that is..
With HD source my Panasonic HMC 150 Encore produces reasonable MPG SD files but the Canon 7 D produces more artifacts.
Enough of a remeniss and ramble, good luck
Addiitonally with the completed DVD there is a distinct difference depending upon which DVD player is used, using the same DVD my Sony 3D bluray player upscales better than my Panasonic Bluray recorder, whereas at a club I go to the Pioneer AV amp upscales the DVD even better, therefore I would conclude that the device playing back the DVD can have a vast effect on what you see.

Trying to connect my panasonic viera TV to my new Apple TV with a dynex 1080p hdmi cable but the hdmi option won't show up on my tv when I try to change the input.

Trying to connect my panasonic viera TV to my new Apple TV with a dynex 1080p hdmi cable but the hdmi option won't show up on my tv when I try to change the input. Any suggestions welcome!

Your profile claims Apple TV 2. 1080p is only available withe the Apple TV 3. Apple TV 2 is maxed out at 720p.
Hope that helps

How can I get my Panasonic 3D TV and BluRay Player to go online using Time Capsule?

So I've extended my home network using my Time Capsule so that I have a stronger signal in different parts of my home. My Time Capsule isn't hard wired to the modem, but I'm now getting a stronger signal in parts of my house that never had good signal strength. That being said, I've set up my Time Capsule in my living room right next to my home theater system. I thought since Time Capsule is connected to the internet, I would be able to connect my 3D TV and BluRay player (both Panasonic) to it. I did wire connect the tv and BD player to the Time Capsule, but no connection is happening between the tv and BD player and net. Can anyone help me out a bit? Does the Time Capsule need to be hard wired to the modem for this to work?

Let's check your settings first on the Time Capsule.
Open AirPort Utility - Click Manual Setup
Click the Wireless tab below the row of icons
What setting do you see for Wireless Mode?
What type of router (make / model number) is providing the "main" wireless network that the Time Capsule is trying to "extend"?

Comparing video quality of AVCHD BluRay discs using Final Cut Pro Share vs Compressor

Up front, I will admit to being a newbie when it comes to using Final Cut Studio 3 and would appreciate some feedback from the Apple forum experts.
I have spent a lot of time trying to determine how to achieve an optimum group of Compressor 3.5.2 settings so that the playback video quality of an AVCHD BluRay disc is equal to or better than one created by using the simpler auto settings of FCPro Share, version 7.0.2.
When using Compressor’s auto/default maximum settings, I experienced the same error message reported in:
Error MessageDuring Creation of Blu-ray Disc in FCP and Compressor 3.5
https://discussions.apple.com/message/12073794#12073794
I have since made some Compressor AVCHD Discs with smaller bit rate settings and compared video quality with a single FCP Share AVCHD disc. Both seem to be equal in providing a very good video when viewed on my new Panasonic DMP BDT 310 BluRay player. However, the Compressor AVCHD discs show some motion artifacts not present with the FCPro Share version, especially when scrolling text or when objects are moving through the field of view, and visible artifacts are seen from a stationary chain link fence and other lattice work in the background of the video sample.
My sample video used for the comparisons between Compressor and FCP Share discs is a 21 minute duration home movie, originally captured from a mini DV, Canon HV30 1080i camcorder using ProRes HQ encoding(1440x1080), and dragged into FC Pro 7.0.2 timeline where 10 chapter markers have been inserted.
To create an AVCHD disc using FCPro Share, Markers are used to set the IN and OUT points, Select IN to OUT from the timeline, pull down File Menu Share, Select Create BluRay from options in pop out Share pane, and designate output device along with picture files for Background, Logo, and Title options. When these are completed, click on Export. My 21-minute video required almost two hours for encoding including about 10 minutes for burning. This accomplished on an iMac 3.06 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo.
To prepare this same 21-minute video for use with Compressor, I again Select IN to Out from the FCPro timeline, but this time use File Export as a QuickTime Self Contained movie including Chapter markers. Then Open Compressor, choose Create BluRay from Template pane, right click on the down arrow in the Batch window and load the QT self contained movie file. From there I went to the Inspector window and tried various combinations of bit rate settings along with Frame Encoder options such as Better or Best motion parameter controls.
I have tried the following combinations of Bit rate settings along with varying Frame Encoder controls and burned an AVCHD disc for each example:
Example A
Compressor set to 6 Mbps Average and 8Mbps Maximum, Frame Encoder settings OFF. Approximately 4 hours to encode although the time remaining estimator indicated a larger value of ~7 hours; not an accurate estimator at all.
Example B
Compressor set to 6 Mbps Average and 8Mbps Maximum, Frame Encoder settings ON, using “Better (Linear Filter) and Better (Motionadaptive)” settings. Approximately 4 hours to encode, not the 13 hours that were estimated.
Conclusion: Comparing A & B Compressor versions, Disc B showed some improvements in reducing motion artifacts over Disc A.
Example C
Compressor set to 13 Mbps Average and 15 Mbps Maximum, Frame Encoder settings ON, using “Better (Linear Filter) and Better (Motion adaptive)” settings. Multipass checked. DeInterlace was checked. Unknown hours to encode; about 8 hours done overnight..
Conclusion: Disc C showed some minor improvements reducing motion artifacts over Disc B
Example D
Compressor Auto settings,i.e., 15 Mbps Average and 17 Mbps Maximum, Frame Encoder settings ON, using “Better (Linear Filter) and Better (Motion adaptive)” settings. Multipass checked. Approximately 12 hours to encode, done overnight. Inserted disc next morning after the overnight encoding was completed, and a few minutes later an error message pane appeared that the maximum bit rate had been exceeded. This message was consistent with the Apple posted thread referenced above. Unfortunately the long overnight encoding was wasted.
It seemed to me that the best Compressor settings for suppressing the motion artifacts were displayed by the disc burned in Example C, i.e., 13/15 Ave/Max Mbps with“Better” Motion settings in the Frame Encoder.
However, when this disc was compared to the AVCHD Disc burned using the FCPro Share, the latter still seemed much better. I do not know what the auto bit rate values are as set in FC Pro, but for me, the quality is quite good AND the motion artifacts are significantly reduced, especially evident with the scrolling text.
Sorry about this long post, but I thought the detail would be necessary for the experts, and maybe helpful to others trying to get started in this BluRay arena. Did I misuse Compressor? I think the sample video exported as a self contained QT movie was the right thing to do? Not sure where I went wrong.
Thanks in advance for Feedback and Recommendations. For now, I’m going to stay with the simpler process using Final Cut Pro Share function.
BoBo

Thank You, Brad, for responding; glad to hear I'm not the only one having similar Compressor issues.
You may have hit on something. Perhaps Compressor's use of H.264 encoding was the reason for my motion artifacts? And perhaps Final Cut Pro Share retains the 1440x1080 quality as it burns the AVCHD BluRay disc?
I had Toast 10 for less than 30 days a couple of years ago, and was lucky to get a refund.
What version of Toast do you have? Wondering if new Toast 11 has improved previous bugs, especially upgrading its Chapter text, pictures, music. I would go back to Toast if it came close to mirroring DVD Studio Pro, or even iDVD capabilities.
Thanks,
BoBo

Intel iMac won't recognize external display with Dynex mini-DVI adapter

I've got an original Intel iMac with a Mini-DVI connection on the back. I'm attempting to hook it up to an external display (a plasma screen, in fact). I picked up a Dynex Mini DVI to Video Adapter DX-AP100 for Apple. This connector has a mini-DVI connector on one end, and both a video-out and an S-video-out on the other.
When attempting to use the adapter, the iMac does not recognize that there is an external display connected. Here are the facts:
The external display: I've tried this with a Panasonic Plasma screen connected directly through S-video, as well as a Pioneer receiver (one that switches video) connected both through s-video and composite video. And yes, I've got the settings on the TV correct. I've also tried this with a Polaroid LCD TV connected via S-video and composite video.
I did notice that when I click "Detect Displays" while the Plasma was connected, the plasma briefly "flashed", implying SOMETHING was happening, but still no dice.
Anyone have any experience with this Dynex DX-AP100 that could share some wisdom?
OS: v10.5.6
System Profiler:
ATI Radeon X1600:
Chipset Model: ATY,RadeonX1600
Type: Display
Bus: PCIe
PCIe Lane Width: x16
VRAM (Total): 128 MB
Vendor: ATI (0x1002)
Device ID: 0x71c5
Revision ID: 0x0000
EFI Driver Version: 01.00.068
Displays:
iMac:
Resolution: 1440 x 900
Depth: 32-bit Color
Core Image: Hardware Accelerated
Main Display: Yes
Mirror: Off
Online: Yes
Quartz Extreme: Supported
Built-In: Yes
Display Connector:
Status: No display connected

Yeah, I realize S-video is limiting, but I'm trying to keep things as simple as possible. The TV is mounted to the wall and there are not currently any DVI or HDMI cables coming out of it. There's an S-video input from my receiver that I'd prefer to use since it's readily accessible already. In the end my goal is to use Netflix "Watch Now" on the TV, so I'm not too worried about video quality.
and before someone asks if I considered that the receiver's S-video input might be the problem...I tried taking the s-video wire from the stereo and plugging it directly into the adapter. No dice.
ONE ADDITIONAL PIECE of information...while trying to get this to work on an LCD monitor, I plugged the composite video connection from the TV into the adapter. Suddenly the Mac recognized an additional monitor, but it saw it as a VGA monitor, not as s-video or composite video, and no signal went to the TV.
I'm considering trading in this adapter for a mini-DVI to VGA adapter, but that really won't help me with the connection to the TV.

Macbook pro via HDMI to panasonic ae2000 projector not working.

Hi
Last night I tried to connect my mid 2009 macbook pro to my panasonic ae2000 projector.
I have a mini dvi to hdmi adapter lead.
The macbook pro display would flicker when hdmi plugged in but the projector would not come up as a display device. (in display preferences) So I could not output signal too it.
I have used used same lead to connect to a philips tv without problem via hdmi.
Any ideas ?
thanks

Hi
I think its aprox 8 meters. (10 M max)
Its the same cable I use from my normal panasonic dvd/bluray player to the projector.
Except of course I unplugged player to plug in mac, (have used cable again without problem.)
Interesting thought though.
Not sure I have a 2 meter cable (projector on ceiling) to see if I can plug that from mac to projector.

Connecing 40' Dynex Tv to Panasonic Bluray

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