DIY power supply?

Is replacing the power supply for an Ambient Light Sensor iMac a DIY project? Will I lose anything off the Hard Drive as I can't keep it running long enough to do a Time Machine backup?

It could be the power supply, it could be a loose connection, it could be dried thermal paste, particularly since the computer shuts down even when it's not being heavily used. Of course, the other possibility is the logic board as was mentioned before.
Really, unless you remove and replace the power supply and the problem stops, there's no way to diagnose it definitively without taking it apart and testing the components.
Sorry not to be able to point to something and say "that's IT", but probably the best thing for you to do now would be to take it in and have a tech test it.

Similar Messages

  • G4 power supply

    I have a Power Mac G4 (mirrored doors) that won't start; the fan doesn't spin, so I suspect the power supply died.
    Does anyone have suggestions about where to buy one? Does it have to be an Apple power supply?

    Here's some info on Apple's power supplies for MDD models.
    Description:     PowerMac G4 Mirror Drive Doors MDD power supply
    Apple part no:     614-0224, 614-0183, 661-2725, 661-2816, 661-2725
    Apple description:     Power Supply, w/ PFC
    Type:     Desktop
    Identification:     24pin connection
    AcBel API1PC36 400w
    Samsung PSCF401601B 360W 614-0224
    Family:     M8570, MDD
    Part type:     Power supply
    PowerMac G4 MDD 867Mhz Dual -- DTG4MD867DMD
    PowerMac G4 MDD 1Ghz (FW800) -- DTG4MDG10SF8
    PowerMac G4 MDD 1Ghz Dual -- DTG4MDG10DMD
    PowerMac G4 MDD 1.25Ghz -- DTG4MDG12SM3
    PowerMac G4 MDD 1.25Ghz Dual (FW800) -- DTG4MDG12DF8
    PowerMac G4 MDD 1.25Ghz Dual -- DTG4MDG12DMD
    PowerMac G4 MDD 1.42Ghz Dual (FW800) -- DTG4MDG14DF8
    Look at these links. geID=11276529
     Cheers, Tom
    Power Mac G4: Computer Does Not Power On, No Fan Movement
    Message was edited by: Texas Mac Man

  • 1st gen. iMac G5 power supply failure

    Hi, all!
    My 20" iMac G5 here at work collapsed and died on me about a week ago. The computer just deactivated abruptly; I actually had thought that I had kicked the plug or stepped on the power bar by mistake. I restarted it, and it worked for twenty minutes before dying again. Now it's entirely unresponsive. Having read up on the matter here and in the Mac support pages, I'm quite sure the power supply has failed. I'm in the process of finding out whether the computer is still covered under Apple's Repair Extension Program. ( - I know the iMac model is correct, my serial number matches the range, I'm just not sure if the computer is less than three years old.)
    Anyway, the important thing for me is the hard drive, not the machine itself. We're entirely Mac-based here at work, so there is no shortage of machines for me to work on (I've already replaced my old machine with a much newer Intel-based iMac), but I would very much like to retrieve my data from my old hard disk. I've downloaded the DIY guide for opening the 20" iMac G5 and removing the hard drive, but I need some advice on the best plan of action. Should I then open another, working G5, remove its hard drive, insert my old hard drive and transfer my files off to my new iMac through our company server? Or is there another way to approach it? Is the hard drive on my 20" first gen G5 compatible with newer mac models, or am I going to run into problems with connectors, physical disk size, etc.? Or, should I just leave well enough alone and leave the entire operation to a Mac Genius?
    This will be my first time opening an iMac. I believe that I can open the machines and remove-replace the hard drives without voiding any warranties, correct?
    Thanks so much in advance for your help and advice!

    I am on the phone right now with a product specialist about my iMac G5 power supply issues. Kind of ***** because he has, in so many words, said that the Genius is the Alpha and Omega and can extend the 3 year coverage. For me that is great except that the Apple store is over an hour away. I don't understand why the dude on the phone can't pull the switch and make it happen as well.
    Factor in:
    Unplugging iMac G5 and all peripherals
    Loading it in the car
    Driving an hour
    Carrying it into the Mall (apple store)
    Waiting for my Genius appointment
    More than likely getting it fixed for free (from the sounds of things)
    Driving back after it is fixed
    Doing everything listed in reverse.
    Would it just be easier to pay the $108 for a new power supply, wait a few days, undo some screws, and BAM! it works again?
    Update. Off the phone now. The product specialist flexed his muscles, back handed the Genius to gain authority, and basically stated that they WILL DEFINITELY repair either the power supply or the logic board or both if needed. I have already had them replace the logic board once. BUT, I still have to load it up and take it to the Apple Store. Boo.

  • Can I install a G3 Blue & White power supply unit in a G4 AGP?

    I have a G3 and a G4. The G4s power supply unit (PSU) short circuited a while back and I got a G3 as a replacement. I've tried to find a replacement power supply unit for the G4 and have been using the G3 in its place. Sometimes they appear on ebay but I usually lose the auction. But the G3 has upgrade issues that involve spending money on it. It's a Blue and White 300 MHz Yosemite while the G4 is the Graphite AGP 400MHz Sawtooth. RAM isn't an issue, processing speed is, the G3 is harder to upgrade. Plus I can put up to 3 hard drives in the G4. 2 ATAs and a SCSI. the G3 only holds 1 ATA hard drive. With 2 SCSI bays.
    Anyway I'm leaning towrds retiring the G3 and rebuilding the G4 starting with the PSU. And I've seen on auction sites that these units are compatible with both Macs, the Blue and White G3 and the AGP and PCI G4. It is essentially the same 240 watt unit made by Delta Electronics or ATX..
    However as I spent part of the yesterday dismantleing and cleaning dust out the Sawtooth's innards, and removing the broken PSU, I also noticed on the G3 that the PSUs cables are slightly different. There is one cable that is connected to the start button. On the G4 this isn't the set up. The start button's cable is linked directly to the motherboard.
    To get to the point. Is this cable arrangement a potential problem that I should avoid by not tinkering with it? Or can I ignore this and install the G3 PSU in my G4? I'm preceding with caution and will check back here later in the day.
    G3 B&W 300MHz 6GB 512MB + iMac G3 400MHz 10GB 320MB   Mac OS X (10.3.9)  

    Thanks, Grant
    Interesting opinion.. and funny too.
    On close inpsection of the fron panel you're right the cable is a hard drive cable, and without a number. Whereas the connector for the DVD and Zip drive are numbered P7 and P6.
    And in the G4 there is a slot for where this old connector went, but there's nothing to connect, no pins. It's as if this slot was evolutionary rump on its spine end where the tail ended, that the G4 designers left in or else they used left over parts from the G3 to save money.. This early G4, introduced in 1999-2000 is one evolutionary step above the G3 which was discontinued in early 1999. The G4 front panel has a slim grey ribbon cable leading under the chassis directly to the motherboard, along witha thin wire and small pin connector leading from the speaker.
    There's nothing like a beakdown to learn how to rebuild your PowerMac. And I think most of the repairs are DIY doable. It just takes a few good screwdrivers, a little know how, some patience and a lot of spare time. All that and the correct replacement parts, if you can find them.
    So I've finished installing the G3 PSU in the G4. It fits perfectly in and amazingly all the cables were long enough, including the cable to the ATA hard drive bay P2 and P3. Hard drive is connected, RAM installed, ready to go. All I have to do is plug the power cable into a power strip socket and hope for the familiar whirr and chime and breatha sigh of relief. If nothing happens then it prolly means the motherboard is kaputt. Or that it isn't compatible with the G4 architecture and it's back in the G3. I'll let the board know what's happened tomorrow. I'm off to Slumberland. ZZZZZzzzzz. rob
    G3 B&W 300MHz 6GB 512MB + iMac G3 400MHz 10GB 320MB   Mac OS X (10.3.9)  

  • Need help fixing my Power Supply (delta 710W)

         My Power Mac G5 had been acting strange lately in the form of not turning until I waited a day after turning it off. Thankfully, I have determined the cause to be the power supply after using the apple hardware test and reading other posts. When I press the power button before waiting, it clicks twice and turns off. If I do wait, the computer works normally (im actually typing on this computer right now!). Given the fact that I am a financially impaired diy technician, I want to fix it my self. Do be aware that I will be taking the necessary precautions while working on this thing because I am aware of the danger it involves. I think it could be a VERY basic issue, so any ideas would be helpful. Thank you.

    Have you tried measuring the voltages of the PSU? ml

  • Power supply conundrum

    I've been reading various posts from people with the same problem that I'm having. There seems to be a lot of you out there. My iMac G5 has a bad power supply too. I looked into the repair extension program that apple offered to remedy this problem and my serial number makes mine eligible but, alas, my power supply failure occurred 9 months too late. I don't think it's fair that they exclude older machines since there is an inherent design flaw with this component. The age of the machine should make no difference. Is there any recourse?

    After reading more posts on this subject, I'm replying to my own post with another question??????????
    I'm capable of replacing the power supply myself. When my computer was only several months old I transplanted the midplane of this same computer into an new bezel and display after a display failure. Piece of cake. It was a DIY procedure. Apparently the power supply replacement is not DIY for some reason and they suggest taking it to an authorized repair center. How can I buy one if they're not willing to sell it to me?

  • Replacing Time Capsule Power supply

    Does anyone know of a place to replace the power supply on a Time Capsule? s/apple-time-capsule-repairers
    You can order a kit and diy.. not that hard.
    But there are no replacements for the original power supply.. Apple refuse to supply any parts for the TC. It is a sealed unit that is a consumable.. (in their opinion.. not mine).

  • Power supply died

    I wasn't doing much on my computer, when all of a sudden I heard a pop and the computer shut off, followed by an electric burning smell coming from the power supply. There was no catalyst; it sits behind a battery, and my other computer running on a parallel UPS didn't feel any surge. Its serial number is just before the recall numbers. Does anyone know if Apple will sell me a new supply? Its far out of warranty and I've always done DIY repairs on my system, and ifxit doesn't carry desktop parts.

    Hi Mathew Medeiros-
    I believe that Apple will sell you a supply, but it will be fairly expensive. However, this place sells repair parts for Macs: We Love Macs
    A G5 power supply isn't easy to do, but many folks have managed to successfully do the deed.

  • What power supply do I need for a dead AGP G4 with upgraded processor

    I recently upgraded my 400Mhz G4 to a dual 500Mhz board and a bigger, faster HD. I also replaced the internal battery but now the Mac... she is dead. No power, no lights, no nothing.
    Will I need an upgraded power supply for the new board, or is it just old and time for a replacement power supply.
    I found this on Ebay... will it work?
    "This 237W Astec power supply (Apple part# 614-0108) is a clean, working pull from a revision 2 Power Mac G4 AGP Graphics/Sawtooth series computer (e.g. 350/400/450/500 MHz single processor) and will also work perfectly in previous models as well. "
    AGP G4, Dual 500, 768Mb RAM   Mac OS X (10.3.9)  

    The AGP Sawtooth Mac can be switched to an ATX PSU. Later models (Gigabit G4, Digital Audio, Quicksilver and later) have a different power supply and motherboard that passes 28 Volts DC from the power supply to a connector for the ADC port graphics card. (28 VDC is passed to the Graphics card ADC port to power Apple's ADC monitors, introduced in Summer 2000 MWNY.) A standard PC ATX Power Supply does not have 28V DC and will not be pin compatible with the Gigabit G4 and later G4 systems.
    Here are some DIY web pages, if you are interested in doing this: =1121532398

  • Power Supply Issues Part 2

    This is a copy of my last post plus the new item. I recently received a Power Mac G4 server (450) over the Holidays (last year)and plugged it in and made sure very thing work and what not. Took it on the plane home plugged it in when i got here and it worked and hadn't messed with it since I had too make up at work for the vacation I took. A couple of weeks later went to turn it on and the power button lights and the fan turns on for like three to four seconds then shuts down every time. Was unplugged the entire time wasn't in use so its not a surge problem. Do I need a new power supply or is it something else? (Today) I also have a Power Mac G4 (fw800) and shut it down last night and when I went to start it this morning it did the same thing. Nothing was tripped in the surge protector and everything was fine shutting down. This is getting very annoying. Plus I never did replace the power supply on the g4 (server) so I am going to go through the same test from the last time. I need some help, I got two units down now, not that i don't enjoy playing on my iMac 266. what I do know so far is that the battery is not dead. Measured out at 3.58V
    iMac 266 Rev. B   Mac OS X (10.4.7)   Too many to choose from...

    And have you replaced the PRAM battery? Just testing is not enough, it needs the voltage under load. Radio Shack, OWC and other vendors sell them.
    For PSU prices, see this:
    For install help, look here:

  • I had an Intel-iMac fried by lightening. UPS, surge protectors but it happened as I was reaching to unplug.  Cold now.  Could it just be the power supply?  Can I replace that myself?

    This is the full question since I couldn't get it all in the box. 
    I have some complex questions regarding an iMac, a Time-Machine backup, and iTunes on an iPod.
    I live about halfway up an extinct volcano about 12 miles north of San Jose Costa Rica.  Some months ago, we had a thunderstorm and as I reached to unplug my computers lightening struck about 50 meters from my house.  I had an iMac with a 3-Tb external backup drive, a PC laptop and a laser printer on the same power strip.  There was a definite surge and the light brighten and then power was lost for a few minutes.
    When power was restored, the PC and the laser printer seemed to work fine but the iMac was cold.
    First questions:  Is is possible that the power supply was fried and not other essential parts?  Would it be worthwhile to replace the power supply?  Can I, with limited experience and tools do it or need I take it to a technician?  My concern is that if the hard-drive is good, there is personal information on it that I don't want to risk.
    Next question:  Do I need to replace the hard-drive before taking it for service?  How hard is that, can I do it? I have seen videos of the drive replacement on-line.
    Those are my iMac questions, now the questions about backup restoration.
    If there is a saving grace with this it is that the Time-Machine backup seems fine although I have only accessed the data through Finder.  I replaced the iMac with a Macbook Air with significantly less mass storage and I can't just move files to the Macbook.  My problem is that I have an iTunes library of some 10,000 songs on the backup and until recently on a 160 Gb iPod which was old and it crashed.  I have replaced the iPod but have not tried to restore the iTunes library to it because of my confusion about how to do that.  Can anyone tell me how I might do that or give me any insight into the process?
    Thanks for any help you can give.

    Is is possible that the power supply was fried and not other essential parts?  Would it be worthwhile to replace the power supply?  Can I, with limited experience and tools do it or need I take it to a technician?  My concern is that if the hard-drive is good, there is personal information on it that I don't want to risk
    Quite possible, but working on iMacs is not easy, & PSU might be prohibitive.
    Hopefully the Drive might have info on it, but even pulling that out can be a chore.
    If you don't know the model, find the Serial# & use it on one of these sites, but don't post the Serial# here...
    How to find the serial number of your Apple hardware product...
    I have replaced the iPod but have not tried to restore the iTunes library to it because of my confusion about how to do that.  Can anyone tell me how I might do that or give me any insight into the process?
    I'd get an external drive & restore the whole works to it, then boot from the External drive.

  • Shock Therapy - An Athlon64 / FX Power Supply Guide

    I used to make a hardware list of all the components I would like to incorporate in my next
    computer build. the bottom of that list would be the power supply, not that I
    didn't think it was important, it's just that my other hardware was so interesting! Today, power supplys
    seem to take a back seat to blazing-speed CPU's, Dual-Cored processors, glitz and glamour
    video cards...not to mention supersonic, heat-sinked RAM and modular, gizmoe'd PSU's promising not
    only over-achiever specifications, but eye-candy as well. The lowly PSU....tucked up somewhere inside
    it's dark and lonely loft....effortlessly supplying us with the energy required for important 3D imaging
    or just funning with the latest games.
    What a power supply does is rather simple. It converts your office or home's socketed electricity to
    usable 3.3v, 5.0v and 12.0v energy...that's all. A power supply that cannot efficiently do this will-
    over time-cause computer crashes, continuous reboots and shutdowns, and worse...expensive component damage.
    And now, with faster processors such as AMD's Athlon64 and FX line of CPU's, never has there been a time, when
    choosing the right power supply is so important! This article is written for those using these high-powered CPU's!
    Well...Do we have your attention!?
    If you are experiencing these problems, or still scratching your head over that last RMA....could be
    your PSU is trying to tell you something.
    To begin with, a power supply's ratings refer to its maximum output under ideal conditions. No power
    supply is 100% efficient. In high-quantity manufacturing, power supplys may not put out any more than 60% of
    their advertised specifications. In any PSU, that rating can be further reduced by the effects of heat
    and electro-magnetic radiation. That's where "switching" power supplys come in. A switching power supply draws
    only as much current that is needed from the AC input. Buying a hefty PSU with this feature will guarantee
    that you will be paying no more for electric service, than you would with a cheaper, less powerful unit.
    One of the most common causes of power supply inefficiency, and ultimately failure is dirt. Dust and
    foreign materials can cause the beginning of the end for a power supply, by attacking the fan first.
    It begins by slowing the fan down...thus creating heat through friction, then ultimately burning it out.
    PSU's with high-quality ball bearing fans are a must. They are far more durable, and not as likely to
    become noisier as time goes by.
    As a general rule...a failing PSU will usually emit abnormal sounds, followed by unstable voltage readings....
    then the computer crashes or lock-ups, with random shutdowns, and sometimes...refusal to even power-up.
    If you think your power supply is on its last leg...better to deal with it now, or face the more serious dilemmas later on.
    APM (Advanced Power Management)
    APM is a feature originally developed by partners, Microsoft and Intel. It relates to a systems ability
    to utilize different states in regards to a systems utilization of power. On, Off, Standby and Suspend
    are examples...these are BIOS features, not PSU functions. APM only requires of the power supply, the
    function to turn power on or off through an electrical signal, and the presence of stand-by voltage.
    All ATX power supplys are required to incorporate this feature. However, if some components in a computer
    are not APM-compliant, your system may encounter errors or freezes when going into hibernate or stand-by
    ACPI (Advanced Control Power Interface)
    It's the latest power management control that was developed by a conglomeration of IT corporations. This interface
    is O.S. derived, rather than BIOS, and all ATX power supplys should be ACPI-compliant. You should not have to be
    concerned about this feature.
    Line-Conditioning Circuitry
    A power supply component that helps control power levels, spikes and surges in
    the most unreliable of home sockets.
    EMI Filter
    This circuitry smooths the fluctuations of incoming AC currents, also known
    as Electro-Magnetic Interference - EMI filters are usually found in higher-end power supplys.
    Power Factor Correction Circuitry...smooths out sudden, initial spikes in power
    delivery - reducing amplitude and preventing circuit overloads.
    There are five main connectors found on the latest version ATX power supply.
    1) ATX main power connector - 20-pin, 24-pin, and 20 to 24-pin adapter.
    2) ATX 12v power connector (4-pin to CPU)
    3) Molex peripheral power connector
    4) Floppy power connector
    5) Serial ATA power connector
    On newer SLI-certified power supplys, you'll find two 6-pin video card connectors.
    Know What You Need
    When purchasing a power supply, make sure your parts list is all-inclusive...know ahead of time, what you expect to
    install in your system. You should also visit the motherboard manufacturer's site, as well as the CPU's. Most of the
    products will have specifics regarding power supply requirements needed for that specific component. Unfortunately, you
    really won't know how well the PSU performs until it is installed and running your system (hopefully!) This is the main reason we
    recommend the most popular brands - power supplys that have shown a duration of manufacturing quality over the years. Those are
    as follows: Antec, Enermax, OCZ, PC Power and Cooling, Tagan, and a few newcomers such as SeaSonic and Silverstone are
    worth looking into.
    If you believe you have found the PSU of choice, remember this: AMD recommends a minimum 350 watt power supply to run
    Athlon64 and FX CPU's. To that, add the 30% for power lost to heat, and the subsequent electro-magnetic radiation. Hold on with that
    calculator...throw in an additional 40% to 60% for the "potential" inaccuracies of specifications inherent in mass-produced electronics.
    Pay special attention to outputs on either single, or dual rail +12v lines. A motherboard, CPU, and graphics card can consume up to
    150 watts alone - before hooking up your remaining components. If running an SLI configured board, look for a PSU that is certified
    to run that configuration...there's only a few PSU's that lay claim to that!
    Broken down, you can look at it this way: An Athlon64/FX processor can use up to 90 watts off the +12v rail. High performance RAM
    can take in about 25 watts for each stick of 256MB system memory from the +3.3v line. PCI cards will use about 10 watts each, while
    an AGP video card can consume about 50 precious watts alone from the +5v or +12v. Hard drives? A 7,200 RPM drive...about 15 watts
    each, taken from the +5v and +12v rail. Finally, but not absolutely is the optical drives...robbing about 20 watts each, also from
    the +5v and +12v lines. So you see....not only is the +12v amp ratings of concern, but also the +5v line!
    In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
    end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
    Modular Power Supplys:
    The pins that are used for the modular plugs are not very good at passing current. It's basically electrical resistance between the male and female components, and voltage "drops" are likely. In real world events, they will become loose, dirty, corrosive, and eventually burn. You can figure about 10% less efficiency with a modular power supply.
    Now you can understand how manufacturing "tolerances" that are inaccurate by 40% to 60%, can have such a devastating effect on
    the performance of your new system. If you follow these simple guidelines, bearing in mind the hardware you will be using, and what
    your intended use of the computer is for...then it will be one less dramatic incident when pushing the power button for the first time!
    Here's a neat little tool....a bit out of date - that can give you a basic idea of what you'll need in a PSU.
    You can apply the percentages above, for an even more accurate assesment of your PSU requirements!

    In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
    end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
    Well, except the CPU, my system has all that you mentioned there (I even have 3 optical drives). And my 350W PSU has been rock solid for more than a year (BeQuiet, = Tagan, IIRC). I don't think a 4000+ needs 100W more than my 3200+ . And that link you posted says that the minimum recommended PSU for my system is 506W  xD. Come on.
    Oh, and in the place I work there are 6 amd64 with GeForce 6800 GT and 2GB RAM with 380W Antec PSUs. All 100% stable, of course.
    I would only go for >400W if I wanted to do extreme OC (with overvolting), or SLI. Otherwise, a good brand 350W PSU is more than enough.

  • MSI KT3 Ultra-ARU power supply problem

    Hello !
    I am a lucky owner of MSI KT3 Ultra-ARU motherboard but have one problem. My power supply Fortron (FSP Group) 300-GT 300W seems to have some kind of incompatibility with this motherboard. In my case, the computer can't be shutted down by software. With BIOS version 2.5 it was impossible to shut it down with button too. With 2.6 it is possible to turn the computer off by button but software shutdown still don't work. PSU is working on ALL other boards I have tested so far normally. Somewhere in discussions (not in this forums) I discovered that also some kind of weird sounds occurs with Fortron supply on this board and that it is incompatible. Have anyone some clues to solve this PSU problem ? I am not able momentally to buy some other kind of PSU because Fortron is the only brand from higher category to obtain, so I would be like to solve this.....
    Thanks for any info !

    Voltage readings from sensors (current data):
    Adapter: ISA adapter
    Algorithm: ISA algorithm
    VCore:     +1.76 V  (min =  +0.00 V, max =  +0.00 V)
    +3.3V:     +3.34 V  (min =  +2.97 V, max =  +3.63 V)
    +5V:       +4.89 V  (min =  +4.50 V, max =  +5.48 V)
    +12V:     +11.89 V  (min = +10.79 V, max = +13.11 V)
    -12V:     -12.44 V  (min = -13.21 V, max = -10.90 V)
    -5V:       -5.01 V  (min =  -5.51 V, max =  -4.51 V)
    V5SB:      +5.51 V  (min =  +4.50 V, max =  +5.48 V)
    VBat:      +3.42 V  (min =  +2.70 V, max =  +3.29 V)
    fan1:     4560 RPM  (min = 1500 RPM, div = 4)
    fan2:     2033 RPM  (min = 1500 RPM, div = 4)
    temp1:       +40°C  (limit =  +60°C)                       sensor = thermistor
    temp2:     +44.5°C  (limit =  +60°C, hysteresis =  +50°C) sensor = thermistor
    PSU is powering Athlon XP 1700+ processor, the other big power consumer is GeForce4 Ti 4200 GPU. I am not able read currents for specific voltage outputs, so I am not able to measure whole power consumption. Computer is working normally, it is NOT overclocked (but it is stable overclocked too) and the only problem is PSU shutdown by software (win & linux, both of them has this problem). From BIOS v2.6 it is possible to shutdown the computer by power button. If it is tried by software, computer resets itself and three beeps occurs.

  • Power Supply and Graphics Card Question for HP Pavilion a6432p

    I have the HP Pavilion a6342p, and I'm wanting to install an NVIDIA Graphics Card either 512MB or 1GB. However, I'm not sure what is the power supply to this model (most graphics cards are saying 300-350W supply required). 
    Can anyone tell me what is the power supply to this model, and what would be a good graphics card model to look at to upgrade my graphics card to with this model? I believe the expansion slots are PCI-Express, but I'm not sure on the power supply so I can get the right graphics card.

    Originally posted by thegrommit
    That 9100 doesn't even have a fan, correct?  It should have no problem running on that motherboard with that PSU.
    Also, the links in my sig may prove useful.
    [edit] err, the 9100 is an integrated video chipset.  Are you sure that's the correct number?
    No the 9100 is not just an integrated video chipset and is available in both AGP & PCI form.
    The Antec is a good PSU but I would recommend getting something better such as the OCZ or Enermax as they have a higher +12v rail amp.

  • MAC Pro 2.66 quad core Intel Xeon Power supply

    Does any one perhaps know how many watts this MAC's power supply is ?
    Can not find it anyware.

    Thank you

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